05 Legacy GT 5 speed clutch or transaxle problem

[JB91710]

I installed a used 05 Legacy GT 5 speed with a performance clutch on my EZ30 engine and the two wheel drive adapter. I am getting absolutely No Drive from the engine to the gearbox and there isn't even noise or vibration. I talked to Wayne and he thinks it could be the center of the clutch has broken or the drive shaft inside is broken. Keep in mind there is No Noise as I disengage or engage the clutch.

Has anybody had this happen to them? I will be starting to check it out tomorrow, July 18 by removing the rear plate first.

I have the car running but need a Megasquirt tuner to finish the tune and complete the wiring harness or just show me how. I have the time but not the experience. You can see all my build videos on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqRwX0liUT8

Thanks, Jack

[Brad Smith]

Does the release fork move a little at rest, can you wiggle it? If its tight at rest, it's holding the clutch down. It's either bent, off the ballstud fulcrum or off the release bearing. If it wiggles and moves normally with the pedal, pull the clutch back out & inspect.

[JB91710]

Hi Brad,

The fork is locked in the forward position and takes an enormous amount of pressure with the pedal to disengage the clutch. The fork looks normal to me. How could it get bent? 89475 89476

[Brad Smith]

You'd be amazed at what can get bent. Can you wiggle the fork when it's at rest?

[JB91710]

When it's at rest, I can't move it at all. There is pressure against it. I just went to the garage to video the installed clutch from underneath. I put the trans in gear and turned the half shaft and the clutch turned. If the pressure plate compressed the clutch plate when it was bolted in, I would have to press the clutch pedal to allow it to turn, right?

[JB91710]

When I bolted the pressure plate on, I had to compress it on around 3/16" so I imagine it is sandwiched in. When I bolted on the transaxle, there didn't seem to be pressure against the throughout bearing. P.S. I am a Big Time amateur at this.

[Brad Smith]

If the fork is tight at rest, it's holding the clutch open.
You should not be able to spin the trans in gear with the clutch released.
Did you PERSONALLY pull this trans from a running vehicle?
Are you sure the big balls clutch is the same dimensions as stock? Some require a different fork or ballstud fulcrum.

[JB91710]

What COULD be the problem, when I put the fork in place, the pivot ball might be resting against the springs rather than set into the cup. I just thought the springs would slide around the ball when it was bolted up.

[JB91710]

The kid who owned the car removed everything and was installing a 6 speed when I got there. All the pieces where together. I can't contact him. I'll ask Competition Clutch if I need a different fork and ball. He might have left them in his car.

[Brad Smith]

Money says the fork not on the stud is your issue. You may have damaged the spring beyond usability, if so you'll need a new fork. It should be slid onto the stud between the fingers of the spring.
You MIGHT be able to jockey it around without pulling the trans back out, but might come off the release bearing.
Sucks, but easiest solution is pull them back apart.

[JB91710]

Actually, I have these pictures that show the springs around the ball. 89484 89485

[Brad Smith]

Okay, if you remove the slave cylinder, does the fork wiggle?

[JB91710]

Figured it out! The fork ball was resting on the rim of the cup instead of inside it. When everything was bolted together, the clutch was disengaged. Thanks for your help Brad.

[Brad Smith]

Awesome! Glad we figured it out. Happy to help.:D

[JB91710]

Ok, now for round 57! Started the engine and then shut it off. Lowered the car to the ground, attached the cooling fan wires and then tried to start and drive it for the first time. The starter drives the shaft forward but the motor won't turn over. :mad:

[Brad Smith]

Sure it's in neutral? If you jack it back up, will it start? Where did you attach your cooling fan wires?

[JB91710]

I made sure it was in neutral but I would think with the rest of the Subaru wiring gone, out of level shouldn't matter. I'll jack it up and see if that makes a difference. This is the first time this has happened in the many times I have started it. I ran the fan wiring through a dashboard switch and a relay.

[Brad Smith]

Not about being level, about a possible wire getting pinched somewhere. Check the voltage coming out of the solenoid during crank (the OTHER big terminal). If it's nothing, check the actual voltage going to the starter on the crank signal wire, be sure it's above 10 volts. Below 9 won't pull the starter armature in enough to make contact inside the solenoid.

[JB91710]

Not about being level, about a possible wire getting pinched somewhere. Check the voltage coming out of the solenoid during crank (the OTHER big terminal). If it's nothing, check the actual voltage going to the starter on the crank signal wire, be sure it's above 10 volts. Below 9 won't pull the starter armature in enough to make contact inside the solenoid.

Could I have that in English now? :confused: I'll check everything.

[Brad Smith]

Signal (smallest single wire) wire when cranking = B+(12v), Minimum of 10v. 9v or less will not work.
Input (batt cable conn) at all times = B+(12v), Min 10.5v.
Output (remaining connection on solenoid-goes into starter body) when cranking = B+(12v), min 10.5v.

[JB91710]

It's no longer a Planter! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIwYxVTItbY

[flynntuna]

Break out the champagne! Congrats on the reaching this milestone.

[Brad Smith]

Right on, man! Good to hear it!

[JB91710]

Thanks guys. I'm Numb! Tomorrow I'll get it out of the garage and CLEAN and ORGANIZE my garage so I can find stuff and then I'll do a parking lot video.

https://youtu.be/4oCUVlGvUrQ