Anyone raise the engine or thicker mounts?

[grathke]

Hi All,

Anyone raise the 2.0L engine on thicker mounts or adapter plates? I've got a modified auto trans (thanks to Wayne Presley for that) and getting ready to mate to my engine and start that portion of the install. I remember someone else doing an auto and the trans makes the engine tilt forward because of the differences compared to a manual trans. I guess I'll find that out in a few days but wanted to get a head start on thinking about this. I know someone modified the frame at the rear to lower the trans which would tilt the engine back to its original position, which is a possibility. But for now, has anyone raised the engine mounts to make the engine sit higher (for what ever reason) which would make the engine/trans sit more level. If so, how much can you raise it so it does not interfere with the deck lid, or anything else for that matter.

Thanks
Glenn

[lsfourwheeler]

Hi All,

Anyone raise the 2.0L engine on thicker mounts or adapter plates? I've got a modified auto trans (thanks to Wayne Presley for that) and getting ready to mate to my engine and start that portion of the install. I remember someone else doing an auto and the trans makes the engine tilt forward because of the differences compared to a manual trans. I guess I'll find that out in a few days but wanted to get a head start on thinking about this. I know someone modified the frame at the rear to lower the trans which would tilt the engine back to its original position, which is a possibility. But for now, has anyone raised the engine mounts to make the engine sit higher (for what ever reason) which would make the engine/trans sit more level. If so, how much can you raise it so it does not interfere with the deck lid, or anything else for that matter.

Thanks
Glenn

Look at turbomacncheese's build thread post #67. He custom made some thinner mounts. An idea like that may work for you.

[lance corsi]

I made new mounts 1 1/4" taller than originals and welded them in. I also moved my engine forward 1" to align trans output shafts with wheel hubs. This way all original mounts will work. The extra height also helps with header clearances. Prolly would cause some interference on the upper side tho. Nothing on my car will be affected because I'm going to fab everything custom myself.

[grathke]

I made new mounts 1 1/4" taller than originals and welded them in. I also moved my engine forward 1" to align trans output shafts with wheel hubs. This way all original mounts will work. The extra height also helps with header clearances. Prolly would cause some interference on the upper side tho. Nothing on my car will be affected because I'm going to fab everything custom myself.

THANKS for the help. I will check out making new mounts as well as check out the thread #67

Glenn

[grathke]

I made new mounts 1 1/4" taller than originals and welded them in. I also moved my engine forward 1" to align trans output shafts with wheel hubs. This way all original mounts will work. The extra height also helps with header clearances. Prolly would cause some interference on the upper side tho. Nothing on my car will be affected because I'm going to fab everything custom myself.

Did you raise the engine because you installed an automatic trans? If so does this pretty much put the engine back as level as it should be? Did you fabricate your own trans mount?

[lance corsi]

I raised the motor because it isn't set at the right attitude from FFR. I'm running a 5 spd. I left the trans mount alone but I had to elongate 1 bolt slot in order to move the assembly forward.

[grathke]

I raised the motor because it isn't set at the right attitude from FFR. I'm running a 5 spd. I left the trans mount alone but I had to elongate 1 bolt slot in order to move the assembly forward.

Well for sure mine won't even be close to being right. Do you have any measurements of the engine to any reference points so I can try and get close?

Glenn

[lance corsi]

Just make some spacers to place between your engine and the FFR mounts. Use a level on top of the motor, in an appropriate spot, to help with determining amount of rise needed, then figure out how you want to go about achieving this, spacers or custom mounts, or do as I did and cut off the FFR mounts and weld in your taller ones.

[SixStar]

On the 5MT you can use a 6MT mount and get the tail of the transmission a tiny bit lower. A level on the crank pulley is an easy way to see how far off it is.

[lance corsi]

Level your car first, otherwise everything else is meaningless. Forgot to mention that before.

[grathke]

Level your car first, otherwise everything else is meaningless. Forgot to mention that before.

I'm reading between the lines here, with the car level and at ride height, the top of the motor should be level also. Of course at an appropriate spot to put the level.

These comments are really, really helpful.

Thanks
Glenn

[UnhipPopano]

There was a post early in the discussions about if the engine should be level or the front should be slightly higher as the G force of brakes is more than the G force of engine acceleration. Add the complexity of some cars are set up with the back end higher than the front to improve weight transfer during cornering. So while the original design was for the front to be down, this discussion is to make it perfectly level, and theoretically it should have an upward rake.

What testing could be done to determine what works best?

[lance corsi]

You would want the same angle that Subaru engineers designed it for, regardless what kind of car the motor is used in. The roll center of your car will be raised slightly but it should be a negligible amount, well worth the trade off for proper oil pickup.

[STiPWRD]

You may want to check out Aloha818's build if you haven't already. He's one of the few to fit an auto trans in his 818. I don't recall if he did any mods to the engine/trans mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11586-Honolulu-818S-Hana-(work-build)-Thread&highlight=aloha

[turbomacncheese]

Look at turbomacncheese's build thread post #67. He custom made some thinner mounts. An idea like that may work for you.

Technically, I made some custom THICKER mounts, and A customer thinner mount. Raised the front, lowered the rear. Here is how it turned out. Let me know if you are serious about following my path. I have some notes that would have made the job much better.

81819

[grathke]

Technically, I made some custom THICKER mounts, and A customer thinner mount. Raised the front, lowered the rear. Here is how it turned out. Let me know if you are serious about following my path. I have some notes that would have made the job much better.

81819

Thanks for the offer of the notes. For certain I will need to do something. I've been thinking about using the oem mounts but make a spacer to raise the engine and mount from the chassis. I'm thinking of 1.5" X 5" or 2" X 5" steel channel with internal spacers to act as re-enforcements to give added strength. This would mount to the chassis, and then the engine mounts would bolt to this. I also need to do something for the rear of the automatic transmission as I have no mount. I'll need to make something up.

I'm interested in your thoughts on this, AND I'm also very interested in your mounts. Is it feasible to increase the height of the custom mounts by 2" or so over the size of the oem mounts?

[grathke]

I made new mounts 1 1/4" taller than originals and welded them in. I also moved my engine forward 1" to align trans output shafts with wheel hubs. This way all original mounts will work. The extra height also helps with header clearances. Prolly would cause some interference on the upper side tho. Nothing on my car will be affected because I'm going to fab everything custom myself.

I was able to verify in my case raising the engine 2" will make the engine level. I verified this in 2 different areas. I measured the angle vertically on the crankshaft pulley, and also the bracket that is on the right side. I'm not getting as much change as you only because of the automatic transmission pan which raises the backend up.

Your measurements put me in the ballpark, I also see how moving the engine forward 1 inch aligns the axles better with the wheel hubs.

Thanks for your help with the measurements and such.

Glenn

[grathke]

You may want to check out Aloha818's build if you haven't already. He's one of the few to fit an auto trans in his 818. I don't recall if he did any mods to the engine/trans mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11586-Honolulu-818S-Hana-(work-build)-Thread&highlight=aloha

Yep, thanks for the reminder. I'm dong an auto soley because of his installation. Went back and look for any mods to the frame. Couldn't find it. I seem to remember that someone modified the frame to lower the trans (could have been him).

Thanks
Glenn

[turbomacncheese]

Yep, thanks for the reminder. I'm dong an auto soley because of his installation. Went back and look for any mods to the frame. Couldn't find it. I seem to remember that someone modified the frame to lower the trans (could have been him).

Thanks
Glenn

This one too....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20434-Art-s-818-build/page2

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