40 Watt Garage & #9365

[Fixit]

Just got off a "chat" with Ford Performance... here's a copy of our conversation:

Info
at 14:28, May 3:
Thank you for choosing to chat with us. An agent will be with you shortly.
Info
at 14:28, May 3:
You are now chatting with Anthony.
Anthony
at 14:29, May 3:
Hello John, how can I help you?
John Delke
at 14:30, May 3:
Hello... Running a Coyote crate in an FFR Roadster (Cobra), and am concerned about the alternator output voltage. It's nearly 15v, not the "usual" 13.7 to 14 as all my other toys are.
Anthony
at 14:30, May 3:
One moment please.
Anthony
at 14:32, May 3:
Let me transfer you to a Techline Associate. One moment please.
Info
at 14:32, May 3:
Please wait while your chat is transferred to Steve.
Info
at 14:32, May 3:
You are now chatting with Steve.
John Delke
at 14:33, May 3:
I am using the Controls Pack, have the 3-prong connector & 10g output wire connected.
Steve
at 14:34, May 3:
What control pack do you have?
John Delke
at 14:34, May 3:
I'd have to dig out the invoice, but it was purchased in '18 for the Gen 2 crate engine of the time.
Steve
at 14:35, May 3:
15 Volts is normal for the current Mustangs
John Delke
at 14:36, May 3:
OK... I was surfing around on some Ford perf forums, and a few suggested unplugging the 3-prong. So I did, and the voltage at the battery (running) was then at 13.7v - regardless of accessory load. Curious as to the function of the 3-prong wiring...
Steve
at 14:37, May 3:
It is controlling the Regulator thru the PCM
John Delke
at 14:38, May 3:
Is the value adjustable with a "tuner", or is it fixed at the 14.8-ish V ?
Steve
at 14:39, May 3:
fixed
John Delke
at 14:39, May 3:
10-4... Will the alternator or PCM be harmed without the control signal?
Steve
at 14:40, May 3:
nope
Steve
at 14:40, May 3:
It will work as a 1 Wire Alt
John Delke
at 14:41, May 3:
Copy that... I'm just a little more comfortable with the 13.7v, as it's within the +/- 10% "rule of thumb" my engineering head is programmed to.
Steve
at 14:42, May 3:
Understood
John Delke
at 14:42, May 3:
Others in the FFR community are curious to this as well. Are you able to send me an email transcript of our conversation?
Steve
at 14:43, May 3:
I think you can copy iy from there
John Delke
at 14:43, May 3:
Will do - thanks!

[edwardb]

It's encouraging you were able to get through and get some responses. They had gone pretty quiet last year during the peak of the whole Covid lockdown. I'm not surprised you received the "it's normal" response since that's what many of us have also heard and experienced. Also good you were able to confirm it's OK to leave the control connector off if that makes you more comfortable. What's your take on the various controls the PCM provides, e.g. reacts to temperature, other conditions, etc. Described in the document I linked in an earlier response. You're OK with none of that functional? Also curious if you've cross checked the voltage you're seeing with a known accurate meter vs. the gauge on the dash. I'm still leaving mine plugged in BTW. :p

[Nigel Allen]

At first I was alarmed by the high volts (~15.5V) showing on my Speedhut volt meter. Checked it with a calibrated VOM and found the Speedhut gauge was spot-on. Interestingly, with a CANBUS reader connected to the the PCM on my Gen1, I see a displayed value of 14.5V. This to me looks more like an issue with the calibration of the voltage scaling. I wouldn't know if this is done in the alternator or the PCM, but could explain why the alternator output is high.

Can / should this be fixed? I don't know. I can say that after 10 years I am only on my second, stock standard, automotive battery, have had no blown globes or overcharging issues (although I haven't checked the electrolyte in a while). I have also left the control plug on the alternator connected.

Just my 2 cents.

Nigel

[Fixit]

What's your take on the various controls the PCM provides, e.g. reacts to temperature, other conditions, etc. Described in the document I linked in an earlier response. You're OK with none of that functional? Also curious if you've cross checked the voltage you're seeing with a known accurate meter vs. the gauge on the dash. I'm still leaving mine plugged in BTW.

At first I was alarmed by the high volts (~15.5V) showing on my Speedhut volt meter. Checked it with a calibrated VOM and found the Speedhut gauge was spot-on. Interestingly, with a CANBUS reader connected to the the PCM on my Gen1, I see a displayed value of 14.5V. This to me looks more like an issue with the calibration of the voltage scaling. I wouldn't know if this is done in the alternator or the PCM, but could explain why the alternator output is high.

I guess (like everything else in life nowadays) this is the "New Normal" :rolleyes: . If Ford engineering has deemed that +/- 14.5V is the baseline operating voltage for the charging system, who am I to argue.
I did check V with two known meters, and there was no difference between readings during several tests (plugged in or not). The SpeedHut gauge is also accurate - well, as accurate as an analog dial can be...
As long as the system is "smart", and will not boil the battery I'll reconnect my PCM data plug. I do like the monitoring and variable control(s) that are in place.

It's also good to have confirmed that if the PCM circuit goes wonky, the unit will still function as a "one wire" alternator and not leave you stranded.

The only concern I still have in the back of my head are the other (non-Ford) components in the car. The SpeedHut gauges, LED lighting, wiper & blower motor for example. Are they rated for this "higher than old standard" (13.7-ish) voltage, or are they running at the upper end of their tolerance? Will this effect lifespan?

[Fixit]

The only concern I still have in the back of my head are the other (non-Ford) components in the car. The SpeedHut gauges, LED lighting, wiper & blower motor for example.

I logged into SpeedHut, and found this (https://www.speedhut.com/instructions/speedhut_capabilities_-_sheet1.pdf)
According to their spec/tech sheet, their instruments have an operating range of 8 to 18 VDC.

[Fixit]

Now that the paint has reached "full cure" another item got knocked off the list... "Clear Bra" film.
The front area of the rear fender flares is notorious for collecting rock chips. (When I delivered the car to Jeff, he noted to me there were several dings through the gel-coat and into the 'glass already!)


I wanted to cover the rear flares, behind the rear wheels, and the tops of the doors. (You're always hanging your elbow out since the cockpit's so narrow, and I wanted to keep watches, buttons, sunscreen, whatever off the paint!).
There's a shop just a few blocks away from me, and I brought it over to them for an estimate. They agreed with my "needs", but recommended covering the entire door to avoid a horizontal (and really visible) seam where the door breaks downward. Their spitball estimate was $600 to $700...


The material is available all over Amazon & Ebay, but not in the widths/sizes needed for a large area (like the doors). The online stuff is pretty much in 1, 6, 12, 18 inch widths, and varying lengths. I called another local shop. We'd had a Chevelle Club "Paintless Dent Session" meeting there... so they knew me. I explained what I needed and wanted to do, and they agreed to sell me the film... no pleading, bribing, just "What size?".

I gave them my dimensions, they altered them to fit the size of material they had on-hand (oversize a bit), and told me it'd be about $125. SOLD! I drove the Roadster over there to pick the film up, we verified the dimensions, they cut my pieces, and every guy in the shop came out to gawk at the car!


I highly recommend watching a BUNCH of YouTube videos about doing this. It's really not too difficult, but the videos reveal several tips-n-tricks that really help.
This car has more compound curves than Marilyn Monroe & Jane Russell combined... If I can do this, anyone can.

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[mosh1999]

Looks great! How do you handle the edges at the wheel opens? Wrap all the way around the edge?

[Fixit]

Wrap all the way around the edge?

Yup... Trimmed off the material where the rolled edge meets the "flat" inside the wheelhouse.

[Fixit]

Took #9365 on a weekender to a car show that the Lions Club sponsors every June in a little north-central MN town.
This was a torture-test for the cooling system. 95+F ambient, stuck in stop n go for over an hour, and the temp gauge never nudged over 85C (185F).

The only changes from "as supplied" in the kit are molded hoses & hard pipes, and a Breeze shroud.
IMO the fan shroud is a MUST HAVE for anyone building a Roadster.

Another milestone was also noted - we rolled 5000 miles on this trip!
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[Fixit]

Pulled the trigger and registered for PowerCruise USA (https://www.powercruisebir.com/)

I have attended several of these events over the years, from #1 to #6, then a couple till now... with my other hotrod "Blackie" ('65 El Camino)
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Not too crazy about the burnout & drift events, but it is an opportunity to get your car on a REAL track for a reasonable price.

[Fixit]

5000+ mile update...
#9365 got it's 5000 mile oil change - poured the used stuff through a screen & magnet and nothing (!)

I also changed the gearbox lube. This was the 1st time since install.
There was a little "swirl" of silver in the fluid, but the screen & magnet revealed no major particles. The "swirl" is nothing that I didn't expect with a bunch of new gears getting to know each other.

(The IRS diff was a 1000 mile takeout, and I changed the fluid at install)

A squirt of grease in all the zerks, and I think I'm good to go!

A front to back bolt check revealed only one loose fastener... one of the rear "elephant ear" mounting bolts. (JK you owe me a dollar now, not $.75)

I'm hauling 9365 to the track on a stretcher.
I usually take pride in myself by driving to & from events, but I want to remove the "How you gonna get home?" monkey from my back.
This will be the 1st time I will be able to really cut this beast loose in a safe environment, hammer the throttle & brakes HARD, and make adjustments (also discover my testicular fortitude.)

[Fixit]

Update...151781

Comes with a price...
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[Higgybulin]

Seems like a small price to pay! Cause I'm sure the testicular fortitude that you have now reassured yourself you have was worth it!!

[Fixit]

A little teaser...


https://youtu.be/LWDC3m7LhYk

[Higgybulin]

A little teaser...


https://youtu.be/LWDC3m7LhYk

They don't even make you put on a bucket?! Wow, wind in your hair and everything! Best place to do it, ON the track.

[7tvette]

That's awesome! I'm really surprised too about no helmet.
On a side note, this makes me homesick. I have a summer home 30 miles from BIR in Crosslake. Being in Canada and the boarders being closed we haven't been able to get there for 2 years.

Troy

[Fixit]

That's awesome! I'm really surprised too about no helmet.

Powercruise is a pretty laid-back event - "Old School" for lack of a term. A minimal tech inspection, legal disclaimer, and you're on the track. (The way it should be - if you F-up, IT'S YOUR FAULT).

They have sessions during the event where you are competing... drift, burnout, flag-drop drags, powerskids - and you need to have ankle to wrist clothing and a helmet.

[Fixit]

Mrs. Fixit & I spent a long weekend at our lake cabin - doing "phase I" of seasonal shutdown - lots of the piddly stuff that just takes time (pulling/storing dock accessories, yard art, the boat, boat lift, etc.). But, we did plan on a day-trip excursion for Friday (best weather day).

Took the Roadster from our place to Longville, Remur (Sasquatch siting town), Grand Rapids, Deer River, Bemidji, Itasca State Park, then Walker for dinner... About a 230 mile loop. Lots of great scenery, twisties, and point of interest stops along the way.

The car performed flawlessly, pulling about 21 mpg with speeds varying from 45 to 75 mph. Rolled 6200 miles somewhere along the way!
Same spot (Bemidji MN) roughly 2 years apart.

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[Fixit]

Well...
A full tank of "Sta-Bil"ized gas, Battery Tender clipped on, cover on... tucked in for a winter's nap.

[Fixit]

Wow... almost 3 months since an update, and more than as many years since the start of my build...
#9365 is still under-cover, on a battery tender, and up here in "Frostbite Falls" (negative 7F this am) cruising season is still months away.

One thing I have done is upgrade my PC to something with some horsepower, and compile the library of photos into videos.
I was lucky to have beaten the "Covid" BS by about a year, and truly have sympathy for those with long delivery dates and subsequent POL's... but trust me - when that big truck shows up all is forgiven & forgotten.
Delivery Day (https://youtu.be/TKjFLZqcmP0)

[Fixit]

Well #9365 (Otto) survived the winter OK.
Mother Nature actually got back on her meds and allowed us a reasonable Saturday a week or so back, and the cover came off.

A check of tire pressures, fluid levels, and turn the key. Went for a 60 mile run to visit a buddy and check on his C10 Chev Pickup build.

[Fixit]

A huge Thank You to my Chevelle Club buddies Chris S, Chris P, Bryan, and Mitch for giving up the better part of a Saturday to help me out.
Another Thank You to my wife for putting together some chow & cold drinks for us when we got home.

I scored a killer deal on a 4-post, but had to move it about 25 miles to my shop. Luckily both garages had 8' doors, but we did have to do some disassembly.
The lift move went off (really) without a hitch. We did eventually wind up on "Plan Revision 4.5", after exploring/trying the options. Maybe a pinched finger, but no-one got hurt, and no damage to the lift or either garage. Success!

What it came down to was removing the "Ladder Lock" nuts, the Cable retention nuts, and removing the top-plates of the posts. With this done we could Squeeeeek the posts (lifting just a touch/taking the weight) with a floor jack) under the overhead door frame/weatherstrip on plastic sheet sliders. Then a careful slow-dance up the ramps and onto the trailer. Rinse & Repeat on the other end at the 40 Watt Garage.
After the crew got it reassembled in the 40 Watt and "close" they hit the road, and I spent the next several hours doing the setup leveling and cable adjustments.

This has been a long overdue addition to the shop, and it couldn't have happened without the help of the my Northstar Chevelle Club family.
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice John! Best of all you just made room for another project! Allow me to suggest an LS powered ‘35 Pickup. Your Chevelle club friends gave you a free pass on the Coyote Cobra but if you don’t get back into the bow tie fold they may be blackballing you 😉

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168326&d=1655646429

Jeff

168326

[GTBradley]

Nice! I have the identical post to put on my build thread. I found a four post recently and my son and I picked it up with a uhaul trailer. It really wasn’t that bad to break down and set up. I did though have a bunch modifications I had to do to my door tracks and roof support. It’s really nice to get the roadster/El Camino up and safely out of the way, isn’t it?

[Fixit]

We didn't have to really "break it down"... just get it down to 94-1/2" to clear the door gaskets!
I hauled it on a flatbed car trailer. With the caster kit on the lift, we just used the onboard winch to gently bump it up. The legs didn't clear the trailer tires, so a floor jack under the crossbeam, up a few inches, over the tires, then back on the casters.

My ceiling is just under 10', and when I had the door replaced a few years ago I had them install the tracks as tight to the ceiling as practical (with a traditional opener). If I'd gone with a sidewinder/shaft drive opener the door might have gone up a few more inches.

[Fixit]

Nice John! Best of all you just made room for another project! Allow me to suggest an LS powered ‘35 Pickup. Your Chevelle club friends gave you a free pass on the Coyote Cobra but if you don’t get back into the bow tie fold they may be blackballing you ��

Quit stirring the pot!!!
(I really don't need another hot rod with zero cargo space and tight quarters inside... although A/C would be nice... hmmmmmmm.)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Quit stirring the pot!!!
(I really don't need another hot rod with zero cargo space and tight quarters inside... although A/C would be nice... hmmmmmmm.)

The tight quarters excuse won’t fly anymore…the cab is being stretched about 5 inches so even the big and tall will fit!

Just stirring:p

Jeff

[GTBradley]

I’ve seen them hauled that way, I didn’t have that big a trailer or the adequately sized cojones to try it. I’m hoping to get some swing out (carriage) doors as my overhead can’t be used when the car is at full height. I’ll post pictures later but you should see the ramp bolts that are nearly cut in half on mine. Apparently, the “professional installation” was none to concerned with safety as the the lift cables ran on top of them. Didn’t hurt the cables but the previous owner had no idea what was happening inside the mechanism until we took it apart.

I think you should take the truck, aren’t you running out if things to do anyway? My neighbor has a 1961 Lincoln Continental for sale. Suicide doors and unrestored with low miles and in very good shape - I can’t help but think, hmm…I do have more space now…

[Fixit]

Well sheit!!

Lots been happening at the "40 Watt"... as in it's pretty much gone! The last few months have been selling a "up north" lake home, buying a "in town" lake home, selling the primary house (40 Watt Garage location), and MOVING 27 YEARS WORTH OF CRAP!!

The new house pushes all the buttons except having a crappy garage.
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It is literally for parking cars, nothing else... no room for a bench - nothing. Caviat on purchase with the wife was "I get to build a shop to my specs"... "Agreed".
I have got all my tools, supplies, whatever in boxes and totes. The lift is sold to a buddy, the compressor is on a pallet, and I'm tripping over boxes and trying to find stuff.
Meeting with a builder tomorrow to finalize some details on a 32 x 36 shop.

[John Ibele]

Well sheit!!

Lots been happening at the "40 Watt"... as in it's pretty much gone! The last few months have been selling a "up north" lake home, buying a "in town" lake home, selling the primary house (40 Watt Garage location), and MOVING 27 YEARS WORTH OF CRAP!!

The new house pushes all the buttons except having a crappy garage.
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It is literally for parking cars, nothing else... no room for a bench - nothing. Caviat on purchase with the wife was "I get to build a shop to my specs"... "Agreed".
I have got all my tools, supplies, whatever in boxes and totes. The lift is sold to a buddy, the compressor is on a pallet, and I'm tripping over boxes and trying to find stuff.
Meeting with a builder tomorrow to finalize some details on a 32 x 36 shop.

Wow, that's a big deal ... and a lot of work. I'm sure I could drive your car for you while you're so busy :) Seriously, good luck with all the disruption, drop me a PM when there's time ... intrigued by the 'in town' lake location.

[Fixit]

I am so terrible about checking in over here on FFR...

Last November we broke ground on my new shop. Even with MN winter weather, progress has been steady (we have some tough tradesmen up here).
It's 32' wide, 36' deep, with 10'6" ceilings. I had to go around & 'round with the City on the final structure height, due to "sight-lines from the street" and height of the house rules, but we got it settled. The pictures take you from ground breaking to last weekend.

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[Fixit]

The builders did an overall prime on the walls & ceiling, then paint on only the ceiling. Over the last week
Mrs. Fixit and I did the wall painting, and trim out on the electrical.

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[John Ibele]

Just beautiful, John. Looks like a fantastic space! Congratulations on having all that work behind you - and lots of room for a new project!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've seen some of your updates on Facebook also John. It's looking fantastic and I'm really happy for you! Great call going with the floor heat; I considered doing that as well and have serious regrets for not doing so. One piece of advice...DO NOT START SANDING FIBERGLASS IN THERE! You'll never get rid of all the dust :D

Jeff

[Fixit]

#9365 survived another MN winter.
After a "fluids check", tire pressure check, and a dusting, I disconnected the battery tender, hopped in, turned the key, and VROOOM.

(I love that sound!! After all winter with no hydrocarbon therapy it is just fabulous)

Went for a 60 or so mile shake-down/warm up/smiles per gallon run, topped off the tank, and wound up at our local Drive-in restaurant (http://www.minnetonkadrivein.com/). Every Thursday they host an informal "Cruise-In" for HotRods. All makes, models, era's, run whatcha brung.

That was last Thursday... 85 degrees outside!... Come Saturday we're at 31 degrees and it's SNOWING again! AAARRRRGGGGG

[dherrenbruck]

Fixit, I’ve got the same situation as with buying a complete IRS out of a 2022 mustang. Looking to reuse the cables and reading your solution. The one question I have is what did you use on the new end going into the hand brake? The piece you cut off can’t be reused, can it? Thanks, this is exactly what I’ve been needing.

This is what you wrote.

Mustang.
(I purchased a complete rotor-to-rotor rear axle assembly - a zero mile "take-out" unit - that included the springs, shocks, ABS sensors, and E-Brake cables).

Step 1 - using a lineman's pliers or big sidecutters, nip off the handle-end swedged knob on the end of the inner cable (NOT the end pictured above!) Slide the inner cable out of the sheath and set aside for later.
This should leave you with two outer cable sheaths something like this... Attachment 91141

Step 2 - Removing the un-needed mounting brackets. The only bracket you need to save is the one about 6" from the caliper - everything else can go.
Attachment 91142 Mark the bracket, and cut off the ear for the ABS sensor cable Click image for larger version.

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The brackets are very easy to remove from the sheath. Clamp the bracket in the vise, and use a BIG straight-blade screwdriver to coax the rolled area open
Click image for larger version.

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ID: 91147 When you're done, you should have a pile of brackets...Click image for larger version.

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Step 3 - Shortening the cable sheaths
The chassis end "fitting" (grey plastic) of the cable sheath is not glued/swedged/whatever on the end of the sheath.
Click image for larger version.

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It is threaded onto the outer jacket, and is removeable (!). It is however Left-Hand thread. A really good grip on the sheath and a twist to the right will spin the fitting off the sheath (sorry, no detail pic of them off the cable).
- Remove the ends and test fit the cable ends in the holes on the frame mounting tab. (I needed to file the holes a bit for them to snap in)
- Remount the cables on the caliper end(s), and snake them cables through the frame, and through the mounting tab on the chassis.
- In my instance, the DS side went through the bottom hole, PS through the top.

Play around with this a bit, think about routing, clearance, smooth bends/radii, and potential hazards from suspension parts. Also consider locations on frame tubes for mounting a retainer clip or two for the cables.

- When you've determined your routing, mark the cable sheaths at the point where they go through the frame tab holes, and remove.

My cables wound up being 42" on the Driver's side, 36" on the Passenger
Measured from here (caliper end): Click image for larger version.

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I recommend using a hacksaw with a 32 tpi blade to cut the cable sheaths. There's the outer jacket, the metal core, then the inner sleeve. Go easy on it and they cut through very cleanly.

Re-install the grey end fittings on your newly shortened sheaths, and slide the inner cables back in. Install them on the car.

[BUDFIVE]

For the ebrake cable the bracket in picture 1 mounted to the spindle/knuckle top-did you tap the spindle hole or use a self tapping flange bolt in the existing hole? My spindle hole is not threaded. Thanks.

[Fixit]

Fixit, I’ve got the same situation as with buying a complete IRS out of a 2022 mustang. Looking to reuse the cables and reading your solution. The one question I have is what did you use on the new end going into the hand brake? The piece you cut off can’t be reused, can it? Thanks, this is exactly what I’ve been needing.

I was lucky to have a local hardware store (one of the old good ones... that has everything but space) that has an entire aisle with those pull out bins of "stuff". They had what I think were called "cable end stops" (Hillman). Basically a round slug of rod, hole through it, and a cross-drilled Allen set screw to pinch/grab the cable. A couple dollars.


For the ebrake cable the bracket in picture 1 mounted to the spindle/knuckle top-did you tap the spindle hole or use a self tapping flange bolt in the existing hole? My spindle hole is not threaded. Thanks.

All brackets used were OEM/as-received in their original locations from/on the Mustang cables, and secured to their OEM/original mounting locations. If yours aren't threaded, I'd probably use a a self-tapper hex-head flange bolt.

[Fixit]

As you can see in my sig there's a question mark after "done"...
I scrounged these switch bezels from a couple of '65/66 Galaxie's wayyy back in the infancy of my build. Never got around to doing anything with them until now.

I had to do a bit of machining (lathe) on them to knock off the locating pin and centering "taper" on the back. I also had to do a little work on the retaining nuts for the switches, but I like the results.
A little "retro" to the dash.
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[craig6990]

John,
I like your frame dolly very much! Do you have plans for it? Would you do anything different?
Thanks!!
Craig M.

[Fixit]

Stupidity on my part prompted a repair project, then a bit of "Scope Creep" made it worthwhile.

Last season I reached through the driver's side to grab something down in the passenger footwell. I braced my hand on the trans tunnel (right over the patch/filler panel for the "as supplied" shifter hole), leaned in and POP! The JB-Weld bond for my filler panel broke loose, and now I've got a divot in my console top. Luckily it didn't damage the upholstery, but there's an ugly 1/2 circle shadow under the vinyl. Decided it was time to repair the damage.
I was able to salvage my patch panel, grind/sand away the old JB-Weld, and re-bond the patch back into place. There's no evidence of repair - looks as good as the day I originally did the job.
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Even with a (useless) glovebox, Herb's doorpanels w/ pockets, and the Breeze Cubby kit, there's not really any useable storage/stash space that you can access while belted in and driving. And... there's nowhere to put a beverage. In 1965 the priority was how many ashtrays & lighters you could get in the interior - not how many cupholders!!

I came up with what I'll call the "Console Corral". It's a piece of .040 aluminum, bent, upholstered, and held in by a few "L" brackets & plastic push-pin fasteners. It'll be a easy place to stash the Sun/Eyeglasses case, the phone, earplugs, whatever. You just have to loosen the shoulder harness a bit and reach forward.
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Here's a more detailed view of the job(s) (https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGWYUGGhs7SvB1_AO2b8aHPSGbtBIKI4V&si=F-pl5lsmyPsNLsfF)

[Fixit]

The other addition was cupholders. After an aggravating search on Amazon, I settled on 4 possible candidates, then whittled those down to the style that worked for me. Some careful measurements, then serious pucker-factor on the drill press, and I was able to bore the two holes in the upholstered console top without incident.

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Here's a more detailed view of the job(s) (https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGWYUGGhs7SvB1_AO2b8aHPSGbtBIKI4V&si=eG5O4FHhBY427GvH)

[ggunter]

Your new garage is really nice. I think you should upgrade it to the "100 watt garage"

[Infinitybox]

Hi John, let us know if we can help with any part of your project.

www.infinitybox.com

Good luck and enjoy,
Anthony

[Fixit]

I bit the bullet and am in the process of installing the Whitby Soft-Top & Tonneau...

So far so good - taking a drill to your finished paint is unnerving, and punching holes through expensive pieces of canvas is worse...

Follow along on YouTube (https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGWYUGGhs7SuBy5RGMGeb31pDpY9i2ImQ&si=-AMuztP_3CkK5VSg)

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've been following along John and as usual your forward thinking and meticulousness is in evidence. These videos will serve as an excellent tutorial for anyone who is interested in installing the Whitby top! I'm anxiously awaiting episode 5 :)

Great job my friend!

Jeff

[Jeff_J.]

Hi John,
The videos on the Whitby top installation have been great, I too am waiting on PT 5. (The scary episode about drilling through a painted surface in the right location..)
Jeff _J

[Blitzboy54]

This is so good. You have a real good feel for instructional videos. These are fun to watch.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Have the Whitby tonneau cover since 2014. Found its very good at extending the ability to drive in colder weather. With passenger side closed the heater is very effective. Car is driven pretty much all year round.

Don't remember what the instructions say but its a good plan to back up the mounting holes with a piece of steel. Also zipper lubricant is useful.

[Infinitybox]

Hi John, you seem like a prime time guy for our system. Take a look and advise if we can be of any help. We are part of the FF Forum and glad to help and show you some consideration.

www.infinitybox.com

Thanks,
Anthony

[Jeff_J.]

Hi John, Great Video series!!!
Just watched Pt 5 in the series. You made it look easier than i thought it would be, lots of good tips. The comment regarding symmetry is well taken, I would have chosen the way you did as well. With out a doubt this has been a great help, looking forward to Pt 6.
Jeff_J

[danmas]

Appreciate the detailed instructions. I’m not thinking I will install a soft top, but your process and detail are instructive and very useful.Thank you.

[Fixit]

Sometimes too much detail can be boring, but I don't want to leave anything out... I don't know what the skills/aptitude of the audience will be.
I do have some upholstery experience - both in a previous occupation and while building the car - but I've never installed a Convertible/Soft-top before!

Installing the Whitby Soft-Top (https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGWYUGGhs7SuBy5RGMGeb31pDpY9i2ImQ&si=-AMuztP_3CkK5VSg)

[Jeff_J.]

Thanks for Part 7 in the series John.
Jeff_J

[Jeff_J.]

Thanks for Video #10 John.
JJ

[Fixit]

Installing the Whitby Soft-Top forced me to come up with a different mounting solution for my FFR supplied rear-view mirror.

I didn't/still don't like the look of the mirror (on the stalk) mounted to the dash cowling, so for the last few years it's been on a bracket attached to the windshield frame. The mounting needs of the Soft-Top require full access to the channel in the top of the windshield - forcing me to come up with a plan "B".

By using the guts of an 00's GM mirror and a little imagineering I came up with a solution that I like!

FFR Mirror Mod (https://youtu.be/d0dLR7-_ve0)

[Fixit]

I was headed to a local town's evening "Roll-In". Stopped and filled up, met some friends and we headed out for a 30-ish mile run to Main Street Belle Plaine MN.

About 10 miles down the road the car quits... nothing - almost like someone switched the key off. Coasted to the shoulder, uttered a few WTF's, turned off the key, turned it to "start" and Vroom. Running just fine.
Rinse & Repeat this once more on the way down, and once on the way home - exact scenario & symptoms.

During the initial build I had a difficult time getting the connector snapped down on/into the fuel pump. I fiddlefarted around with it and then "pop", it snapped down. Cool! Didn't give a 2nd thought. A month of so later (go-kart mode) as I was pulling up the driveway... the car shuts off. (insert the original WTF's here). This problem never resurfaced again, until last week.

Why this sequence of events popped back into my head 7 years & 13000 miles later I don't know - but I'm glad it did. The 1st thing I checked was the connector for the fuel pump... and it appears that this was the problem!

The female terminals inside the connector aren't "captured" very well. They wobble around inside the area quite a bit - enough to push the terminal out of the way - so it'll slide down ALONGSIDE the post, not encircling it (and damaging the terminal along the way)!

Spent a good 1/2 hour re-forming the terminal, verifying it went on properly, and sealing it up. (Would've needed to order/wait 2 days otherwise)

See the whole story here: (https://youtu.be/Ix3fqwU2xSE?si=Fd64-c_1iSsiDPhm)

217195 217196 217198 217199 217200 217201

These connectors are available in the aftermarket. Search for "Fuel Pump Connector Pigtail, Ford Mustang '87 - '93"
NAPA = Echlin EC285
Standard Motor Products = S904

[Jeff Kleiner]

Very common failure John. Several of my friends have experienced the same and it happened to 3 cars at LCS last month, including FFR’s carbon fiber Coupe.

Jeff

[Fixit]

Very common failure John. Several of my friends have experienced the same and it happened to 3 cars at LCS last month, including FFR’s carbon fiber Coupe.

Well that just confirms that the connector is a piss-poor design... and it really is. The terminals aren't captured in the plastic anywhere near accurately enough (required clearance/fudge/wiggle needed aside) to keep them from being pushed out of alignment while installing. (That's why I cut the little "windows" in the connector - to verify the terminals were going AROUND fuel pump posts, not alongside!)

[Fixit]

This is a long post, but worth the read, and watching the links... it may save you from yourself.

Our driving season is coming to a close up here in Frostbite Falls... time to pull the boat, dock, swim island, winterize some of the power equipment, and get the "toy" cars bedded down for the winter.
The Roadster was at about 1/4-tank of fuel, the day was gorgeous, so didn't need much more of an excuse to go for a cruise. I put a full-tank's plus sized dose of Fuel Stabilizer (Sta-Bil Storage) in the tank and went for a drive. The intent (other than enjoying the day) was to get things good & warmed up, burn off some older fuel, then fill up with Non-Oxy to the tippy top for the winter.

After 4 or 5 miles and several "normal" stops (intersections & such) I started to smell brakes... that acrid stink when things get hot. I also noticed the car just didn't "feel" right. Just sluggish, whatever. Approaching an intersection (turning left on) I lifted throttle, pushed in the clutch, and (intended) to coast to the intersection. Nope - no coasting - the car slowed down dramatically. Crap.

I aborted the mission, and beat feet back to the shop. Got the car on the lift and yeah - both front brakes were HOT. Rolled the trolley jack under, raised the fronts off the lift and I could barely turn (both) wheels by hand. Big WTF's uttered here.
The next morning I checked on things again. With everything at room temp, I could spin both front wheels with a good shove about 4 to 5 revolutions. Just the normal "scuffscuffscuff" sound of the pads. The calipers weren't stuck/frozen.

I'm using the Mustang/PBR brakes front & rear, and the Wilwood pedal & master cyl. assembly. I'm aware that the PBR calipers have a reputation for piston problems & sticking, but this wasn't my case. A "failure" on both sides of 1/2 of a isolated brake system points me toward the master cylinder. Some research showed that a piece of crud/debris could block or interfere with the fluid return on the Wilwood master cylinders, and cause them to hold or retain pressure (no fault of Wilwood).

Further research educated me on the properties of brake fluid and what it will do to non-EPDM hose, and common brass fittings.
To make a long story a little longer - click the link below and follow along on my educational saga involving brake system rebuilding, hose replacement, chemistry, and metallurgy.

40 Watt Garage - Roadster Brakes Rebuild Playlist (https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGWYUGGhs7StsczTH-ybBxA9IGou_OpBc&si=lBNpZxUWn1yxRQHL)

[Fixit]

More segments to the video saga added today

[Fixit]

It's deep winter up here in Frostbite Falls, so the car's going nowhere for a few months.
The previous couple of posts have links to my brake problem saga, and I think I saved myself from my own ignorance on that one.

Not to leave well enough alone, I decided to tear into the front brake calipers. Since the rest of the braking system has been completely refreshed, it was nagging me about running components with a known problem.
I decided to upsize my MkIV with the "Cobra/Bullitt" 13" rotors and matching calipers, refresh the paint on the rears, then do a tear-down on the base level PBR calipers. The results are interesting.

223825223827223826223829223828

Click here for the video series (https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGWYUGGhs7SsUm9F_M3lC5m26epp_dkef&si=pYHBPaQkqYbFHaAD)