40 Watt Garage & #9365 [Archive] - Page 2

Fixit

12-31-2018, 05:26 PM

12/31 – Exhaust Headers

I was expecting to use up all the cuss words I didn’t vent while installing the engine while doing this… but in all honesty not one naughty word was muttered! This was by far the easiest header install I’ve done in a long time (try 2” tube full-length in a Chevelle with a 454… it’s a cuss-fest!)

Not knowing what was in store for me stuffing the Coyote into that little engine bay, I removed all 16 exhaust manifold studs. I didn’t want them getting in the way & snagging on things. In hindsight, they’re tucked well under the head(s), and other “stuff” sticks out farther – they wouldn’t have been an issue – but having them out had its benefits while installing the headers. No lost time, 6 to one, ½ dozen to another.

I am using the FFR supplied stainless headers. I’m very impressed by the build/weld quality… save one little thing on one side... Inside the collector on one side there was a chunk of MIG wire stuck near the O2 bung. No big deal, and nothing 2 seconds with a sanding drum on the die grinder didn’t fix. Check yours before installing.
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Hardware:
The Coyote comes from Ford with one manifold installed, and studs for the other side. From the git-go you’re short 8 nuts… and the Ford nuts are the diabolical crunched/crimped self lockers.
FFR supplies 16) 10 x 25mm bolts… no washers... ?
I did save the Ford nuts, but also got 16) 10mm serrated flange nuts, and 16) 10 x 30mm flange-head bolts. This way I could mix-n-match as the situation called.

**Safety Check**
Disconnect the battery if it’s installed! You’ll be dangerously close to the output post of the alternator with parts & wrenches when doing the driver’s side!

Passenger side:
Super easy install. You can use the Ford studs on every location, however the center two upper locations may give some difficulty with using a deep socket needed to run down the nuts. I chose to replace these two with flange-head bolts.
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Driver’s Side:
This side is a bit tough. Clearances are really tight, but the header does slide in there, however it won’t go in with the full-length Ford studs in place. (This is where removing them was a benefit)
Once in there I got under the car, and determined that the rearmost 3 locations would be better served with studs – trying to get a 25 to 30 mm bolt started and run down would be a pain. The other 5 locations I used the flange-head bolts.
I cut the Ford studs down approx. ¾” from the tip. This leaves about 3 full threads exposed with the stud installed and the nut is run down against the header flange.
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With the exception of the forward 3 locations, every other is a PITA to tighten… there’s room for a full-length wrench in there, but several are 1/16th of a turn for the whole run.
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Fixit

01-04-2019, 06:16 AM

I just realized that I'm VERY close to the monumental "First Start" day!

All of the "Do This, Check That" items on my notepad have been addressed, and if my coolant reservoir hoses show up today (as promised) I should be able to fire it up this weekend!

Jeff Kleiner

01-04-2019, 07:17 AM

Fixit

01-04-2019, 08:07 AM

186 days from delivery...

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Fixit

01-04-2019, 06:51 PM

My "Ford Only" coolant reservoir/puke tank hoses showed up today. Spent a few hours getting them cut to fit and coming up with a couple of brackets to mount the "turtle" under the hood.
(While waiting for the hoses, I cleaned up, prepped & painted the hood hinges. Project creep again - needed the hinges in place to determine final location of the tank.)

Got everything mounted and hooked up, and now have 3 gallons of orange Kool-Aid 50/50 mix in the system, with another gallon on standby.

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Put a little over 2 gallons of fuel in the tank as well. Flipped the key on and the gauge now reads 1/8-tank, so I know the gauge & sender works. Also heard the fuel pump kick on and watched the fuel pressure gauge move up. Several more cycles of on/off and the fuel pressure at the engine/fuel rail is at 58psi. and has been holding for over two hours. (no leaks!)

There's 8 quarts of oil in the sump... It's really looking like we're gonna have the monumental "First Start" very soon!!

cv2065

01-04-2019, 07:38 PM

Cruzzz

01-04-2019, 07:49 PM

Sounds like you’re ready to turn the key one last bit (not sure how you resisted earlier). Looking forward to it!

Fixit

01-04-2019, 11:28 PM

Resistance was futile...

After double-checking everything, fluids, clamps, bolts, whatever... it came down to "sh*t or get off the pot" - turn the key to "Start" and see what happens.
Sheryl & I had dinner, went out to the 40 Watt and clicked the "record" button.

IT'S ALIVE!!!
This is a no BS as it happened video. Other than switching the key on/off a few times earlier to "prime" the fuel system and check for leaks, this is an absolutely genuine 1st start of a brand-new build.

The coolant reservoir sucked empty quickly (3 gallons already in), the PS reservoir even faster (added 1/2qt)... but nothing was hemorrhaging on the floor. Not too long after the temp gauge moved off the peg the fan kicked on. IT'S ALIVE!

https://youtu.be/ELpynMrMd4M

Cruzzz

01-04-2019, 11:46 PM

Awesome! Great job John! (Camera lady did and excellent job too.). I plan to follow your path pretty close so this makes me even more confident and excited.

BadAsp427

01-05-2019, 01:06 AM

Awesome job. I’m sure you still have a grin on your face. It’s amazing how fast things will begin to move now that that fantastic milestone is out-of-the-way.

Jeff Kleiner

01-05-2019, 07:27 AM

Attaboy John! I knew you wouldn't wait to go ahead and light it up. That's pretty much how it works with the Coyotes---no more drama on first start than getting into your daily driver and turning the key :)

Jeff

Straversi

01-05-2019, 09:42 AM

Congratulations. Always a great moment.
-Steve

PeteMeindl

01-05-2019, 09:44 AM

woooohooooo! John, that is awesome! Great job - couldn't have gone any better!! What a way to start the new year!

Papa

01-05-2019, 09:57 AM

Another one making noise! Congrats.

Dave

edwardb

01-05-2019, 11:15 AM

Congrats! Like Jeff said. Pretty much the norm for a Coyote first start. On my #8674 build, I was testing the starter circuit just to make sure it was alive and engaged properly. Thought I could just bump it to confirm. It instantly started. So unlike your first start video, my first start video was actually the second start an hour or so later. I was going to post when you mentioned only putting 3 gallons or so of coolant in at first. The Ford spec for the Mustang capacity is 15 quarts, and ours usually take a little more. But you've got it covered.

cv2065

01-05-2019, 11:31 AM

Sounds great John and nice work! Love these first start videos! Hopefully I’ll be starring in mine soon.

Mark Eaton

01-05-2019, 10:27 PM

Awesome!

Fixit

01-06-2019, 09:14 AM

I was going to post when you mentioned only putting 3 gallons or so of coolant in at first. The Ford spec for the Mustang capacity is 15 quarts, and ours usually take a little more. But you've got it covered.

It took every bit of 4 gallons to get the reservoir to stay between the marks. (heater equipped). It's had several warm up/cool down cycles - life is good, no leaks and holds pressure.

Boydster

01-06-2019, 05:33 PM

Woohoo! Congratulations!

Fixit

01-12-2019, 02:34 PM

In previous posts I detailed the upholstery of the rear cockpit wall, and the fabrication of the sliding doors for the "cubby hole".

In the months since then, I've been on the search for a set of handles/knobs/whatever for the slider doors. Whenever I was in a hardware store or home center I'd peruse the kitchen sections looking. The search paid off.

I found some handles that closely match the look of my passenger-side grab bar. I want to maintain a "theme" throughout the interior... not a lot of "bling", but just some brightwork where it needs to be - that ties everything together.

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I didn't want to screw this up (or foul the upholstery on the doors!). I set the handles in place on the doors and got a "that looks good" measurement for where they needed to be. I transferred those measurements to a piece of scrap and made a drilling template.

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After cutting the supplied screws to size, there's now handles on the cubby-hole doors.

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Fixit

01-12-2019, 02:51 PM

Another item that's been on the "nagging at me/back burner" was the openings for the shoulder harnesses.
Seeing as I upholstered the upper 1/2 of the wall in pleather, I knew that it would not hold up for long with the belts dragging across it.

I've seen offerings of "grommets" for the openings, but that really didn't solve the problem of the drag of the belts across the opening. I've been kicking this around in my head for awhile.

There was this 3" stainless band-clamp in the scrapbox that was calling to me. I took some measurements and found that I could get the 4 pieces I needed out of it.
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They were rough-cut to size, mounting holes drilled, and riveted into a stack. When all together they were shaped to size - 4 identical pieces. After experimenting with the bend angle on one, they were bent to the same angle...
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Mounting holes were drilled, and (after a session on the rag-wheel & polish) they were riveted in place
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Fixit

01-17-2019, 05:56 AM

Let's just say I'm a little ticked off at FFR right now...
This not so minor problem is worthy of a notation in the assembly manual - especially when it rears it's ugly head this far along in the build - and it appears to be a common problem when using the power steering rack.

It's time to get the front end aligned on #9365.
I dug out my Dads 65+ year old "Bender model 400" camber/caster gauge, and made up a rig to use it on the Roadster.
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It's 2 lengths of of 1 x 1 aluminum angle, with a piece of 3/16 mild-steel plate in the center. The angle is cut to fit inside the outer lip of the wheel, bearing on the "bead" surface. It's held in place with velcro strapping (the stuff voice/data guys use to bundle & dress cables).
A length of mason's string is stretched (between two jackstands), and set to be parallel to the frame. The protractor is to verify the wheels are turned to the recommended 20 deg's (L & R) during adjustment, and the string is moved to where it just touches the tire at the correct 20 degs each way.
(I'll do a more detailed procedure in another post, after I fix what I'm PO'd at FFR about)

It appears that to achieve the recommended minus 1/2deg camber, and positive 7deg's caster - the rear/aft adjuster sleeves & threaded stubs on the upper control arms will need to be shortened about 3/8" (total) so they don't bottom out before getting to the alignment numbers needed.

Why has this not been addressed by FFR?
This will require a significant amount of disassembly, and some tools that "Joe Shadetree" may not have (to shorten the parts correctly).

I wouldn't have had the slightest problem with modifying the sleeves when I was re-arranging the upper arms (as supplied) and bolting them on the car a few months ago!
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Having to do this now, when the car is a full-fledged, running, Go-Kartable vehicle is a real kick in the 'nads.

BadAsp427

01-17-2019, 08:35 PM

Fixit

01-17-2019, 09:13 PM

edwardb

01-17-2019, 10:54 PM

I'm not worried about the difficulty... my gripe is there's no mention of the possibility in the assembly manual.

As we've all seen here on the forum, there are inexperienced builders that question bolts... (something that those of us with more experience building/modifying cars just take for granted), and now during a very late phase in the mechanical aspects of the build the need to modify a critical suspension component comes up.

The possibility of buggering up the threads, or leaving a burr that will bugger/crossthread the sleeve is a real problem to someone who may not know how to do it properly, and we're dealing with parts that hold the bleeding wheels on.

I'm thinking about the builder who may not be doing his/her own alignment, and having some hack in a tire shop try to get the recommended settings by unsavory means, or tell the owner it can't be done.

I hear you except (1) It's not always required. I was able to get the full PS caster in my #8674 build without trimming anything. Not sure why the variation, but others have reported the same. Others have had to trim like you did. (2) In four builds, I've seen UCA's from three different suppliers. The version before this one it was often necessary to get a longer one for the front sleeves because they would run out of threads when adjusting for PS. Not making excuses, but maintaining documentation is a huge task. Used to be part of what I did for a living. Changing documentation every time a vendor is changed probably isn't practical. So it's left out, intentional or not. (3) This is talked about in a bunch of build threads and often when PS is mentioned. So it's not a new topic. I know not everyone reads every thread. But this is out there.

OK, now we've officially read and talked about this for longer than it took to fix. Back to it. ;)

Fixit

01-18-2019, 06:43 AM

10-4... minor rant over 100859

(FFR, just update the page listing the alignment specs with a notation that modification may be necessary depending upon your steering configuration.)

VAHokie

01-19-2019, 08:07 AM

FWIW, I just did my alignment tonight... It took all of about 20 minutes to shorten the sleeve. It cuts very easy with a hack saw as it is aluminum and the bolt portion cut right off with an angle cutter. A little clean up with a sanding wheel and it was back together in no time. I only had to do this on the passenger side top/rear adjuster and was able to get the 7* setting. I was afraid it was going to be much harder, but pull the one 5/8" bolt and it all swings right out and can easily be pulled off. Don't let this give you any kind of frustration.

Hey Carl, were your adjustments to the sleeves/arms in the same 3/8" range as John? I'm coming up on the IFS soon and may proactively do the mod if there's a consistency in the measurement across builds, otherwise I'll loosely install everything and come back to it later.

Fixit

01-19-2019, 08:58 AM

Back to that "Tales of a Toolbox" (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27972-Tales-of-a-Toolbox&p=319943&viewfull=1#post319943) write-up I did awhile ago...
Dug around in Dads box and pulled out his (now "vintage") J.H. Bender model 400 magnetic camber/caster gauge. I'm guessing he bought this in the mid 50's, before the true alignment racks became the norm in the shops. It's still in great shape, a few combat scars, but the vials and bubbles are intact which is all that matters. This was designed to stick onto the machined surface of the bearing hub, over the dust cap.
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That's not possible with the Roadster. The hub is buried in the wheel, and the wheel is aluminum. Had to come up with a way to mount the tool.

I used 2 lengths of of 1 x 1 aluminum angle, with a piece of 3/16 mild-steel plate in the center. The angle is cut to fit inside the outer lip of the wheel, bearing on the "bead" surface. It's held in place with velcro strapping (the stuff voice/data guys use to bundle cables).
A length of mason's string is stretched (between two jackstands), and set parallel to the frame. I don't have "lazy Susan" plates, so I taped a protractor to the rig at the center point. (This is to verify the wheels are turned to the recommended 20 deg's (L & R, 40* total) during adjustment). The tires are sitting on a couple of layers of heavy poly sheet for slipperyness during turning.
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My curiosity got the better of me, and I wanted to see if I could get away with not cutting the threaded shafts of the UCA's, just shave off a bit from the adjuster sleeves. I made up an "X-Ray Vision" tube from some 3/4" EMT, to simulated the adjuster sleeve. I wound up cutting about 3/16" off each shaft, and basically removed the machined/turned down ends of the sleeves.
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Setting up a front suspension from raw "parts in a box" is an exercise in frustration... especially with fully adjustable arms! (Nothing's designed in for a particular car, they fit anything)
FFR supplies some rough center to center measurements for the Upper Control Arms (UCA) to get you in the ballpark, but the front end is still really wonky.

To time-compress about 10 hours work, here's the procedure:
- Devise a way to easily lock/hold and release the steering wheel in the centered position
- Center the steering rack. Full Left, Full Right, split the difference, lock the steering wheel down. (This also confirmed my initial assembly when the steering shaft was mounted to the rack. The steering wheel was dead-nuts centered at the middle of the rack travel)
- Set a rough toe-in adjustment. (This was nothing more than two tape measures, as close to wheel center as obstructions allow, to repeatable reference points on the front and rear of the tires) Turn each side equally in or out!
Release the steering wheel
- Set a rough camber adjustment for one side (Crank the UCA sleeves equally in or out as needed).
- Set a rough caster adjustment on this side (Crank the UCA sleeves as needed, not looking for final numbers, but close).
Get a good metal machinist ruler, and measure the exposed threads, center to centers, etc. on this side.
Adjust the opposite side to these rough measurements.

The thing to keep in mind is that every adjustment interacts with another... and this early in the game they REALLY mess with each other. Repeat the above steps about 38 times... you will be covering the same ground many times. (Remember to lock the steering wheel when setting Toe.)

Once I got the passenger side dialed in pretty close with the gauge, I moved it to the driver's side, and got it dialed in to the same "close" numbers as the PS (again, the above about 26 times)

Now I've got a car whose wheels are pointed in the right directions, the UCA's look pretty much "mirror images" of each other, and now you're chasing fractions of a degree settings.
Sanity Tip:
At this stage you'll be turning the adjuster sleeves fractions of a turn, and you need to keep track of how many turns.
On the tie-rod extensions I put a blue Sharpie mark on a flat, and a red mark on the opposite/180 side flat.
On the UCA sleeves tape was put on a flat.

Now that things are close:
- Pick a side, and adjust for Caster first. Get it on the nutz.
- Adjust this side for Camber **Use your marks** Adjust each sleeve equally in or out as needed, count flats or peaks - you want to tilt the whole assembly, not change the Caster.
- Run the steering lock to lock a few times, and bounce the suspension.
- Center the steering
- Move to the other side and adjust for Caster, then Camber.
- Run the steering lock to lock a few times, and bounce the suspension.
- Center the Steering
- Set Toe-In **Use your marks** Adjust each side equally in or out as needed, count flats or peaks
- Re-check Caster & Camber on each side. Tweak if needed.
- Re-check Toe. Tweak if needed.
- Once #9365 is on the road, I'll correct any steering wheel centering issues with a turn or two on the tie-rods.

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Fixit

01-19-2019, 09:11 AM

Hey Carl, were your adjustments to the sleeves/arms in the same 3/8" range as John? I'm coming up on the IFS soon and may proactively do the mod if there's a consistency in the measurement across builds, otherwise I'll loosely install everything and come back to it later.

When all was said & done, I probably could have gotten away with only shaving the adjuster sleeves a bit... The threaded shafts would be very close to bottoming, but probably wouldn't. Since I went through the trouble of disassembling the rear/aft leg of the UCA, I just went ahead and cut the shafts (The welded one with the BJ is a treat - have a new blade in your hacksaw!)

Jeff Kleiner

01-19-2019, 09:19 AM

BadAsp427

01-19-2019, 08:05 PM

Hey Carl, were your adjustments to the sleeves/arms in the same 3/8" range as John? I'm coming up on the IFS soon and may proactively do the mod if there's a consistency in the measurement across builds, otherwise I'll loosely install everything and come back to it later.

Yes, I actually cut at the ends of the sleeve right at the end of the hex shape as it transitions into round. I cut off both ends so that it would match. Then I cut off about 3/8-7/16 off of the one end. I did not cut the solid end on the ball joint bracket. I figured that I really did not need to worry about not having enough threads as even with the cuts, I'm almost bottomed out to get to the 7* In fact, at the bottomed out point I was about 8.5* so I was happy with it there...

NOTE: THIS PHOTO IS ONE FROM MY DRIVERS SIDE but on the passenger side it is set up like this with the rear of the vehicle to the left of the photo.
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Fixit

01-20-2019, 08:12 AM

Yes, I actually cut at the ends of the sleeve right at the end of the hex shape as it transitions into round. I cut off both ends so that it would match. Then I cut off about 3/8-7/16 off of the one end. I did not cut the solid end on the ball joint bracket. I figured that I really did not need to worry about not having enough threads as even with the cuts, I'm almost bottomed out to get to the 7* In fact, at the bottomed out point I was about 8.5* so I was happy with it there...

My curiosity got the better of me, and I wanted to see if I could get away with not cutting the threaded shafts of the UCA's, just shave off a bit from the adjuster sleeves. I made up an "X-Ray Vision" tube from some 3/4" EMT, to simulate the adjuster sleeve. I basically removed the machined/turned down ends of the sleeves.

**Note** If you look at one end of the sleeve, there's a groove machined into the round surface. This is the L.H. threaded end. Re-mark or pay attention upon re-assembly after cutting the sleeves.

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The solution seems to be pretty consistent... I'd be pro-active and just do the mod now!

BadAsp427

01-20-2019, 08:29 AM

[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Verdana]
**Note** If you look at one end of the sleeve, there's a groove machined into the round surface. This is the L.H. threaded end. Re-mark or pay attention upon re-assembly after cutting the sleeves.
The solution seems to be pretty consistent... I'd be pro-active and just do the mod now!

I actually saw this and was wondering why it was there.... Never even thought about the left handed threads... Thanks...

VAHokie

01-27-2019, 08:58 PM

John/Jeff/Carl, thanks for all the great info, specs and pics. Did the mod tonight, slapped some anti-freeze in the sleeves and packaged it all back up.

BadAsp427

01-27-2019, 09:28 PM

Anti-Seize right????

VAHokie

01-28-2019, 08:33 PM

Anti-Seize right????

Yes! Darn auto correct.

Jeff Kleiner

01-29-2019, 06:30 AM

My curiosity got the better of me, and I wanted to see if I could get away with not cutting the threaded shafts of the UCA's, just shave off a bit from the adjuster sleeves. I made up an "X-Ray Vision" tube from some 3/4" EMT, to simulate the adjuster sleeve. I wound up cutting about 3/16" off each shaft, and basically removed the machined/turned down ends of the sleeves.

**Note** If you look at one end of the sleeve, there's a groove machined into the round surface. This is the L.H. threaded end. Re-mark or pay attention upon re-assembly after cutting the sleeves.

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The solution seems to be pretty consistent... I'd be pro-active and just do the mod now!

So in other words you didn't believe me... ;)

Jeff

Fixit

01-30-2019, 11:40 PM

Of all the knuckleheads on this forum, you're one of the few I'll trust... but i still gotta prove it to myself. Can't get away from the ingrained machinist gotta know - believe it when I see it mentality.

Fixit

01-30-2019, 11:45 PM

So... as I'm sitting in a hotel room in Monrovia CA... 60+ deg's - while my wife is calling me asking where the heat gun is to thaw the frozen kitchen pipes (-25F ambient)... should I feel bad??

SSNK4US

01-31-2019, 01:41 PM

Welcome to California John! It was 70 here yesterday 2 hours north of you in Bakersfield. Today it’s pouring rain and 55.
You can feel sorry for her for a minute...but enjoy it while you can. I feel sorry for you that you have to go back to that :(
And everybody else that has to live and work in that stuff. I grew up in SoCal and this is about as far away as I wanna get from there.

Kurt

Fixit

02-05-2019, 05:27 PM

Well the "supercold" is gone, and it got to +35 over the weekend... just nice enough to melt sheit and then REFREEZE. Now we're getting snow at about 1"/hr over ICE.
(Mother Nature is off her menopause meds again... hot/cold/hot/sweats/cold/whatever)

I was finishing up a control panel pre-build in the 40 Watt and needed some hydrocarbon therapy. Reached over and fired up #9365 for some NOISE and fumes!!

Fixit

02-17-2019, 07:42 AM

It's been too damn cold to keep the heat up in the garage, and Mother Nature's been hitting us with anywhere from 2 to 6 inches of white stuff about every three days.
I was clearing the driveway (again) and the machine was snagging on the expansion joints like crazy...

After 10 years the front skids finally gave it up and wore through. Hey! I've got a project that generates heat!

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Cruzzz

02-17-2019, 12:46 PM

Nice work! My snow blower has been working hard this winter as well. Almost a whiteout here just south of the Wisconsin border now. Need to get the drive cleared again because the Factory Five truck will be here on Tuesday!

Fixit

03-24-2019, 06:39 AM

Been a LONG time since an update... better part of 1-1/2 months (being 3 pages down on the thread proves this!) Between Mother Nature's tantrums and my work schedule there's been no time to tinker on #9365.
(In all honesty this has been a good thing. I've found that on any major project, be it recreational or other - you just have to "walk away" from it from time to time. Clear your head, clean the shop, regroup, and use the time for doing something else.)

I did have one Roadster-related day earlier this month. The guys & gals in my Chevelle Club have been nudging me to host a "Show N Tell" day at the 40 Watt Garage. They've all been very interested in the build, and now that the car is on it's wheels and runs, curiosity is high.

I highly recommend hosting a get-together at your shop. At the very least it'll force you to clean the place up, put tools away, and have some interaction (instead of being a garage hermit!).
Thank you's to "Mrs. Fixit" for making up a big crock-pot of chili and pan of cornbread, and not minding the crew tramping through the house!

104256 104257 104258 104259 (I'm the one in the FFR shirt)

BadAsp427

03-24-2019, 06:42 AM

Good to see you back....

cv2065

03-24-2019, 08:25 AM

Glad to see you back John. Great workshop!

WIS89

03-24-2019, 09:39 AM

John-

I am certain it feels good to be back in the garage getting some items knocked off the checklist!

Chili and corn bread, mmmmm way to go Mrs. Fixit!! That's a sure way to keep folks happy.

Glad you are back at it, and I look forward to seeing your updates.

Regards,

Steve

Mark Eaton

03-24-2019, 08:45 PM

That's great John, your shop looks very clean and organized. Gotta appreciate your wife!

Fixit

03-27-2019, 04:52 PM

Chipping away at the "final" punchlist before getting the body down out of the rafters and starting on that ughknown...

One of the items was routing and locking down the front lighting harness to the frame tubes, and mounting the horns. Believe it or not this took the better part of a day!
I didn't want to run the PS side wiring across/along the bottom of the radiator, I wanted to run it across the top. Where RF/FFR cuts in and taps off for the PS is in the wrong place for across the top, so I had to do some surgery on the harness. This also enabled me to break out the horn wires where I mounted the horns.

104556 This shows why I made the bracket for the Tilton reservoir as it is... built in wiring channel.
104557 Along the DS "F" panel

104558 Horns on the DS down-tube
104559 Backside of horns
104555 Across the upper radiator support using the screws for the upper mount
104554 Down the PS tube

Jeff Kleiner

03-27-2019, 06:43 PM

Nice work John! I prefer to run across the top also...and...if you use the Breeze radiator cowl cover they'll be hidden (in addition to cleaning up the whole area and promoting better cooling).

https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-cowl-cover-kit-for-use-with-ffr-hinges/

Cheers,
Jeff

Fixit

03-30-2019, 06:42 AM

I've spend the last few days/surftime going over several threads about the initial body fitting process. This is what I've come away with:
- Install the foam stripping and bulb seal as described in the manual... however, it would be prudent to protect it in some way, either with poly sheet or something.
- protect the top edge & face of the dash from scuffing.
- the rolled lip of the dash and rear cockpit seem to cause some clearance issues.
- if possible, have 4 people on hand... one front, one rear, and one on each side.

Here's a question for y'all...

Should I just scribe a line about 3/8" to 7/16" back from the rolled edges of the front & rear of the cockpit opening, and trim off the excess body material? Clean up the factory edge to a known clean edge & eliminate the (possible) clearance issues before even setting the body on?

edwardb

03-30-2019, 07:53 AM

Should I just scribe a line about 3/8" to 7/16" back from the rolled edges of the front & rear of the cockpit opening, and trim off the excess body material? Clean up the factory edge to a known clean edge & eliminate the (possible) clearance issues before even setting the body on?

My experience with two Mk4's is the following: The dash lip I trimmed straight and clean back even to the shortest point, and fits with adequate clearance. Did the same with the rear edge, but in both cases ended up taking more in order to fit the rear wall and carpet underneath. You end up with less than a full round on each end, but still looks fine. Just watch the first install on the dash of course. It should clear OK but as you said don't want to mess up your dash. The rear cockpit wall you may have off/on a couple times (I have) but if still just plain metal can't really hurt anything. The rear wall is flexible in the middle, but not so much on the ends of course by the shoulder belts. So needs to have adequate clearance.

Jeff Kleiner

03-30-2019, 04:01 PM

Fixit

03-30-2019, 07:24 PM

Thanks Paul & Jeff...

Another question:
I've installed the Breeze Cubby divider panel, per the instructions at about 11" back... but now I'm looking at it and it seems to be quite a bit taller/proud than the cockpit rear wall and the trunk hinge hoop.
Should the divider panel be the height/follow the contour as if I laid a straightedge from the cockpit wall onto the trunk hoop, or does the body rise in this space?

Fixit

04-09-2019, 07:36 PM

Been getting home early, so I enlisted the help of Mrs. Fixit to get the body down out of the rafters. The last couple of days has been spent fitting the lamp housings, fuel filler, and then prepping & coating the underside of the body.

I had FFR cut the body openings. I think it was money well spent, they did a nice job. There is a "however"... the holes for the headlight buckets and lamp assemblies will take a little massaging to get perfect. They are a bit undersize for the buckets & housing to sit nice and flush to the body. Nothing that a carbide burr in the air die grinder didn't handle in a few seconds.
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I did a little custom mod to the fuel filler. I wanted the unit to sit in the fender with the hinge at 11:00, latch at 5:00... but this puts the drain hole at about 11:00, on the high-side (nothing will drain!). I went as far as taking the unit apart to try and "reclock" it. No go, the hole never wound up at the low point. Ok, fine - drill another hole.
Here's the custom part. I didn't want any spilled gas just dribbling out inside the fender. I cut the nipple off of an 1/8" hose barb, threaded it 1/4-28, drill the proper hole in the filler and tapped it, and now I can put a length of hose on the filler and direct spills down & out.
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I then took all the shiny bits back off the car, got it off the sawhorses & buck, and turtle'd it. The next several hours were spent working on the underside.

Per Jeff K & Paul's advise, I just went pro-active and shaved off about 3/8" of the dash rolled lip, and about 1/4" off the rear cockpit lip. There's still plenty of rolled edge, and it should now just be a matter of sanding for clearance, not surgery.
I knocked all the boogers & stray strands down with some 80 grit, roughed everything up, vacuumed, and wiped it down with some acetone. The better part of a roll of tape, and on went the bedliner. I used the same stuff as the floorpans.
I masked off around any edge that will need attention during finish bodywork. I don't want the product reacting to body & paint products, or getting in the way/causing extra work for Mr. Kleiner.
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This is the 1st coat. It will get at least one more, probably two.

BadAsp427

04-10-2019, 04:50 AM

Looking great... Nice mod with the fuel filler drain.

Jeff Kleiner

04-10-2019, 05:00 AM

...I masked off around any edge that will need attention during finish bodywork. I don't want the product reacting to body & paint products, or getting in the way/causing extra work for Mr. Kleiner....

Thanks John! I just started one that didn't get that kind of attention and it's left me with a helluva mess :mad:

Jeff

Fixit

04-10-2019, 05:24 PM

Thanks John! I just started one that didn't get that kind of attention and it's left me with a helluva mess :mad:

Just thinking ahead for the next guy... I figure I'll have to get in the wheelwells, etc., and "black-over" any overspray that gets by your masking, so I'll hit the spots that didn't get coated then.

I layed another coat on this morning before leaving for work. When I got home everything was dry, so it was unmasked. Here's the result:
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Jeff Kleiner

04-10-2019, 06:48 PM

... I figure I'll have to get in the wheelwells, etc., and "black-over" any overspray that gets by your masking, so I'll hit the spots that didn't get coated then...

No you won't. I do that.

Jeff

BadAsp427

04-10-2019, 08:29 PM

No you won't. I do that.

Jeff

See.... Jeff is cool like that....

Fixit

04-11-2019, 02:57 PM

Earlier yesterday afternoon I took some 6mil poly I scored from a jobsite and cuts some strips. I layed it over the bulb-seal and foam, and tacked it in place with some tape. This was done to give some "slippery" if I have to reef the body around to get it to set right.

After dinner I enlisted the help of "Mrs. Fixit" and we set the body down over the frame.

Holy Crap!! It looks like a car in the garage!
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I was very surprised at how easily it popped down over the frame, and snuggled into position.
I'll be working on getting it centered/squared the next few sessions, but all in all it looks good!!

PeteMeindl

04-11-2019, 08:42 PM

Looks fantastic, John!

Fixit

04-13-2019, 02:53 PM

The FFR manual is lacking about "body fitment".
In my case, the rear of the car pretty much settled down into perfect. I opened up the rear QJ/Overrider holes just a touch and my bolts spun in without a problem.
In the front is another story.
The build manual has you install the foam stripping, and gives a very non-descript explanation of how to measure if the body is centered on the frame... even suggesting you run a few screws into the frame tubes to hold things in place.
In my instance the body just snuggled down on the frame, and everything just seemed to line up perfectly - except the front QJ/Bumper mount holes! To get these bolts through the front end of the body needed to be raised about 5/8" (well above the foam strips).

After a few well spent minutes on the phone with Jeff K., I got the "real" poop.

The body DOES sit "proud" of the frame tubes near the radiator tube(s) transition, and if it doesn't you'll play hell with getting the hood to sit flat, due to the design of the hood hinges. As it turns out, the FFR drilled holes for the front QJ/Bumper bolts are SPOT ON. When I raised the front of the body to where the bolts/sleeves were centered in the holes all things were lined up.

I just placed an order with ********** for their front grommets.
These are now apparently essential in maintaining the alignment of the nose. The FFR provided steel "eyebrows" that sandwich into the frame mounts are (for all practical purposes) useless for holding the nose of the car in position. (how do they expect a few 10-32 machine screws through a lamp housing to hold the nose of a car in place...??) I'll use the eyebrows for an anchor point, but the grommets will be the main positioners.

Fixit

04-13-2019, 08:14 PM

Another few hours on #9365 today... installing the side louvers.
I'm kinda of mixed opinion/value here about having FFR cut these openings. Dimensionally they're good for the supplied "bend your own" louvers, but aren't quite nice for the aftermarket **********/FFR upgrade louvers.
With the holes already cut in the body, you're held hostage as to making the upgrade louvers fit... and on one or two corners you're really cutting it close for a nice fit with enough reveal of the body edge. At best it's a cosmetic compromise. You fit the upgrade louvers to make the best of the already cut holes.

Without going into a "step by step", I traced the OD of the louver onto a piece of cardstock, cut it out on this line. Then took this template and made the best compromise of placement on the FFR cut out hole - all the while trying to maintain at least 1/8" to 3/16" of body material showing. (remember, my template was of the OD... there's 1/16" of aluminum, then the body edge). Using an air-recip saw and a Dremel w/ sanding drum I opened up the holes to fit my louvers.

I made my own perf'd screw-stud gizmos from some material I had around (hate paying for something I can make), and used some panel bonding adhesive to mount them to the fenders.
(Rather than riveting the "L" brackets to the louvers, I roughed up the "L's" and the louvers with 40g, and JB-Weld'd the "L's" to the louvers a few days ago).

The adhesive I used has a 30 minute "open time", 2-hour "sand time" and after that you're screwed. Everything was dry-fitted before application of the glue.
I used a length of aluminum channel and some velcro strapping to hold the pieces in place during cure. I also had a piece of poly sheet between the "L" and the bracket to prevent any squeeze-out from sticking to the louver.

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Fixit

04-27-2019, 06:30 PM

Between a lot of travel for work, and then having my DeWalt cordless tip over and shatter my phone (no pics, orphaned from the "world") for a week I'm still alive...

Lots of progress on #9365 over the last month (when I can get some wrench-time). The doors are fitted, trunk, license light, latch & handle are fitted, rear-wheelhouse "elephant ears" are mounted, V1.0 of the forward rear wheelhouse ears/splashguards are fabricated (there will a V2.0+, don't like the 1st attempt... why there's no supplied "tin" for this???), and the front body "eyebrows" are carved up/bent/modified to where they'll actually work & line up to help hold the nose in position with the ********** grommets.

I'll get some pics shot and posted soon on all these items...

Fixit

04-28-2019, 07:30 PM

As promised here's the photo update...

Some detail shots of the fuel filler mounted:
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There was a bit of trimming and some forming (basically creating a clearance bump around the fuel filler on the PS) for the rear "elephant ears", but they went in easily. Note the grommet and the fuel filler grounding attachment on the PS... Don't forget to do this! The panels were attached to the frame at the vertical 3/4" square tube in the trunk, and at the wheel opening body edge. 1/4-20 nutserts on the frame, 10-32 nutsert for the body mount tab.
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The forward face of the rear wheelhouses has been a sore point with me. There's a large gap straight from the wheelhouse right into the "under door" area. Tons of crud and muck can get thrown into here! I totally understand why FFR doesn't supply a piece for this, as it'd be near impossible to pre-bend this piece with any chance of it fitting - the cars are too individual. I made my own.
I cut a piece of beer/pop case cardboard oversize, and taped the straight edge to the 3/4" tube that forms the kink in the rear cockpit wall. Using a spray bottle, I wetted down the cardboard to where it was pliable, and formed it into the space. A quick blast with the heat gun kinda "dryed" it into shape. I marked it with a Sharpie for a generous cut-line, and it was removed.
I've got a big sheet of 1/8" ABS plastic knocking around the shop, and I thought "why not?". The template was cut on the lines, and flattened out on the ABS. A quick trace with a utility knife a few times, and the piece was snapped out of the sheet. (Repeat with the template flipped for the other side).
A little time with a sanding block to dress the edges and they were ready to fit.
I layed out equally spaced mounting holes and drilled them 3/16". There's really no curvature to the upper-most part of the piece, so I wiggled it in place and screwed it down - having 3 more screws and the screw-gun at the ready.
With the top anchored, I played over the piece with the heat gun. As it got pliable, I worked the straight edge against the 3/4" tube... not worrying about the rest of it, just the straight part on the tube. As it formed into place, screws were run into the steel tube. Let cool.
With the leftover 8" piece of 2" rubber fuel filler hose in-hand, I heated up the rest of the panel. As it got pliable, I used the rubber hose to roll/work it onto the contours of the fender. Just go slow & easy and let it heat and cool to stay in shape.
Total time for this was 1/2 hour per side.
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Fitting the trunk wasn't too bad. It's a LOT of back and forth playing with the hinges. I used a calipers to scribe a line around the trunk panel. The caliper was set to an "average" of the gap around the opening, being on the generous side of tight. I didn't want to remove too much material, just enough to get the panel to fit in the hole. It's a lot of sand, test, fit, sand, test fit.
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Fitting the license light (Kleiner modded) and latch assembly is straight forward, following the assembly manual and templates. I used a stiff piece of wire to snake the license light wires through the trunk lid, and a grommet where they broke out near the PS hinge.

Fixit

04-30-2019, 03:36 PM

SidePipes - I am using the FFR supplied stainless sidepipes.
There was zero chance of them fitting back on the header collectors using the FFR cut-outs on the body. As it turned out the cut-outs were OK fore & aft, but about 3/4" too short on the vertical.
Using the FFR template in the assembly manual, I basically just moved the upper radii & fore/aft line up about 1". Using a small air-powered recip saw I carefully cut on the inside of my new lines. Test fit the sidepipes. A little more here, a little more there, and then a final dressing with the Dremel and a sanding drum. I'll leave the final sweetening to Mr. Kleiner. (The driver's side looks good for "Parallelism", the passenger may need a wedge.)
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Nose Trim/Mounting:
Do yourself a favor and order the rubber grommets from either ********** or Metro Moulded. There's really no way to locate the nose of the car without them.
Again, I had FFR do the body cutouts, and the holes for the QuickJacks/Bumpers are spot-on. The nose of the car has to sit about 1/2" to 3/4" "proud" of the frame tubes near the hood hinges. Using the grommets in the holes, and lifting the body up revealed the FFR drilled holes were perfect.
FFR steel "eyebrows"... These things are so far off from working they almost became wall art. I spent a LOT of time altering the supplied holes to get them even in the neighborhood of lining up & fitting. Short story is that I welded on extra material off the side of one (mounting holes), and extended the mount holes on the other. Both sides needed the through-hole for the lamp assembly re-bored.
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Rollbar:
The FFR holes again were spot-on. Just a tiny bit of sweetening with the Dremel for a perfect fit with even gap all around. Give careful consideration about the mounting holes for the trim rings & grommets! Think about access from underneath, and from above with a screwdriver. I did have to grind/file/sand down the male stub on the hoop (for the outrigger) a bit so the outrigger would just slide up and slip onto the stub (the alignment wasn't quite perfect. It was close enough to twist it up and on and a thump with a rubber mallet would seat it, but you'd never get it off again.
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Fixit

05-01-2019, 05:20 PM

I did the FFR mods to the door latches using the carriage bolt, but took it a step further. I have access to a metal lathe, so instead of grinding the head down, I chucked it up and turned off the “dome” to a flat. I also drilled and tapped the chrome knob to 6-32, but instead of a screw I chose to do a stud and flanged nut.
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All the threads about dis-assembling the door latches, de-burring, lubing… got me thinking. My latches out of the box worked perfectly. After a drop of oil, there was smooth actuation, didn’t stick, and they worked just fine. (hmmm).

I may have found the reason for “sticking” door latches.
On my car, in order to get the striker/latch bolt in the middle of its adjustment range with the door closed I used the FFR supplied laser-cut spacers for the latches. I ran a length of tape around the perimeter to hold the spacer in alignment to the latch body.
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After fiddling around and getting the holes marked, drilled & tapped 8-32 (another change from the supplied sheet-metal screws) then the latches mounted I had doors that closed and latched with a nice sounding & substantial THUNK.
Then I went to open them… My previously perfect latches now were sticking…

I took the latches off the door, and pulled the tape. When I separated the spacer from the latch there were witness marks on the pieces.
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Then using a straightedge I found that the pivot mechanism sits about 3/32” proud of the latch body.
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The laser-cut hole in the FFR spacer is about 1/8” too small! When the spacer and latch are clamped together by the mounting screws it inherently binds the pivot.

I used a “Uni-bit” that goes up to 1-1/8” and opened up the hole. The spacer is mild steel and will cut easily. (**Clamp it in a vise to drill it! The pic is just a visual)
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The larger hole now registers totally around the latch pivot, and does not bind. I also took a mill file and dressed off all the boogers and the raised LH/RH lettering off the latch. The two pieces now mate together flush.

Back on the car and the latches work perfectly.

DavidW

05-02-2019, 08:07 AM

I used a “Uni-bit” that goes up to 1-1/8” and opened up the hole. The spacer is mild steel and will cut easily. (**Clamp it in a vise to drill it! The pic is just a visual)
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The larger hole now registers totally around the latch pivot, and does not bind. I also took a mill file and dressed off all the boogers and the raised LH/RH lettering off the latch. The two pieces now mate together flush.

Back on the car and the latches work perfectly.

I saw that picture without reading your comments and thought that guy is a strong mo-fo to hold that while drilling it. Thanks for the details looking good!

Fixit

05-05-2019, 03:23 PM

I couldn't stand it anymore... beautiful spring day, been mentally cataloging "Roadster Roads" for months... Gendarmes be damned I'M GONNA DRIVE MY CAR!

And my little 1 mile trip down the block, around the park, and back to the 40 Watt confirmed the need for ever-expanding test drive "loops" from base camp.

Everything works beautifully! Got it into 2nd gear, romped it a bit, my "guess & by golly" brake balancer adjustment seemed good on a panic stop, all was ear to ear smiles. Pulled up the driveway, set the parking brake and got out to open the garage door and #9365 started to stumble and stalled out.

WTF...

From the sound/actions of it this wasn't electrical, it was fuel. I know everything is good. The pump works (58psi at the rail), 1/2 tank of fuel, what is going on??
After about 1/2 hour of troubleshooting I narrowed it down to the problem. The electrical connector that snaps onto the fuel pump. So it was fuel-related electrical!
(I checked the Coyote fuel pump relay, the FFR/RF fuel pump relay, the inertia switch, and had 14+V at the connector to the pump).

About this time I remembered having difficulty getting the fuel pump connector to snap down and latch onto the pump. A lot of fiddling and it finally clicked into place... OK. The "1st Start", and all subsequent runs have had no problems... Until you introduce road jolts and vibration!.

It turns out that with all my fiddling to get the connector seated, the female connector (inside the plastic) got deformed and opened up. It wasn't "gripping" the male post on the pump. It was touching, but not full contact (just fine for test starts...). I used an extractor tool to get the terminal out of the connector body, reshaped it with a needle-nose, and clicked it back in.

End of problem.

What I'm trying to express here is the K.I.S.S. principal (Keep It Simple... Stupid). Don't go "worst case" on a problem and start changing parts. Evaluate the conditions, the changes to the conditions, and compare to known facts when you troubleshoot.

Fixit

05-07-2019, 06:47 PM

I searched a long time for a discreet, small, but bright reverse/backup light... I finally found something at my local West Marine store.

Here's a link to the item (https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--4-led-utility-strip-light-with-gasket-white--18513978)

It's small, the backside is fully "potted" (weathertight), and has a nice rubber gasket to seal it to the body. The housing is made from clear plastic ("white" in the description refers to the light output). I masked off the area of the LED's, and painted the balance of the housing with AlClad II "Chrome", over a base coat of their gloss Black.

Early in the build I made provisions for a backup light circuit, and put it into the RF/FFR rear harness. The Tremec gearbox has a reverse light switch in the case, you just need to provide an ign/acc switched +12v to one side, then the switched feeder going aft for a light. The neg/ground is tied in locally at the rear of the car.

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Unfortunately the hole required for a 2-pin "Weatherpak" wouldn't be covered up by the lamp... so I installed a small "molex" 2-pin plug on the lamp pigtail and the body harness. The connector bodies were packed with silicone dielectric grease, snapped together, and taped.

extradc

05-07-2019, 08:40 PM

Great Thread! I have a long way to go!

BadAsp427

05-08-2019, 08:12 PM

Exciting to see you at this point... Knowing the fun you are about to have...

Boydster

05-08-2019, 11:11 PM

The backup light is pretty cool. One of the little details that makes a nice build.

Fixit

05-11-2019, 07:10 AM

That big box has been sitting against the cabinets for 312 days. I opened it on delivery, peeked inside to see if the glass was intact, and sealed it up.

(I'll apologize in advance for this lengthy post... but this is pretty daunting task, especially if you work alone as I do).

The other night I fitted the "side irons/bars" to the windshield frame. Driver's side just fell on - perfect fit. The passenger side was another story.
The curve at the top wasn't quite right. It had a bit of a twist in it, and the radius wasn't correct - it didn't lay down on the curve of the frame, and overhung aft a bit.

I wrapped it in tape, and using the plastic soft-jaws in the vise and a rubber mallet, proceeded to give it a few love taps/thumps. The brass is relatively soft, and if you don't go crazy on it there's no worries about cracking the plating. I was just chasing a 1/16th or so.

Pay very close attention while threading the stainless screws into the brass thread strip in the edge of the frame. This is where "feel" is paramount.
It shouldn't take more than your thumb & index finger to apply enough torque on the screwdriver. If the screw stops turning and the side irons are still wobbly loose the screw is bottomed out! Don't tighten it more!
The screw is a 5mm. Get a 5mm nut, spin it on, then file/grind/sand off a thread or two from the screw. Put a tiny bit of a taper on the end of the screw. Using the nut as a "thread chaser" remove it. Try the screw in the windshield again.
(In my instance i had to shorten all the PS screws about 1-1/2 threads, the DS were fine out of the package (??))

The side bars are too long out of the box. The consensus is to cut them off 13" down from the lowest mounting screw. This turned out to be a good starting point.

A lot of time was spent back & forth enlarging the pre-cut slots in the body. Initially just to get the assembly to fit onto the car, then "sweetening" to ensure there was no body contact to the mounting bars when it was in the holes. A B*stard-cut file will zip through the fiberglass like butter.
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The FFR cut holes weren't all that great... lucky for us there's the cover bezels & body filler.

The recommended angle is achieved by measuring from the rear door opening to the top screw on the windshield. This distance is 27".
How are you supposed to hold opposite sides of a 30+ pound, fragile, flopping in the hole, 4 foot wide thing at a precise amount while trying to get it to fit!??
My Solution:
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These are 1 meter long sticks of aluminum DIN rail (I use it daily to mount PLC's, relays, gizmo's in control cabinets). The channel shape makes it ideal, as they're rigid and won't "bow". A 3/16" hole was drilled 27" from the end, and a too-long 5mm screw threaded into the windshield frame as a locating stud.
With these in place I could (gently) jiggle the frame around and get it to set down on the body.

Again, a lot of back & forth, and on & off. I couldn't get the DS to set down quite right, and by feeling around the mounting holes I found the side-iron was bottomed on the frame tube - so another inch came off the end. It now snuggled down to the body.

Problems:
"It won't fit down into the PS hole/slot"!
- Look in the hole and check the little firewall extension piece - on my car the slot was too narrow and in the wrong place. I had to open it up/trim it using a "mini-hack" (a hacksaw blade holder) (https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2704452594608186779?lsf=seller:8740,store:76912720 93610538376&prds=oid:2254057235232769610&q=mini+hacksaw&hl=en&ei=lbPWXLjZIMWQsAWrk7SwCA&lsft=gclid:EAIaIQobChMIru_3rbGT4gIVDNbACh3InQSEEAQ YASABEgJNrvD_BwE,gclsrc:aw.ds) through the body slot.

Tips n Tricks:
- Before sliding the windshield in the body, mark a line with a Sharpie down the center of the side irons on the inside of the bars. This will greatly help you getting the bars centered over the hold-down holes. (You'll be on your head upside down with a flashlight peeking into these spaces).
- Drop the fusebox. This will give you much more working room.
- With the 27" locator rails in place, get the centerline (drawn above) passing through the center of the 5/8" mounting holes on the chassis. Trying not to bump anything, measure the windshield frame to body edges at several points comparing side to side. Get the windshield squared up.
- Dive back in the hole(s) and mark the mounting holes with a Sharpie.

**This is an absolute, must-do tip/trick/mod**
Why it's not suggested in the assembly manual is beyond me, as it makes mounting the windshield so easy.
- Pull the windshield, remove the side bars, and using your marked mounting holes, drill & tap them to 1/2-13. (Just go and buy a 27/64 bit, and a 1/2-13 tap... don't argue, just do it!)
It's brass... it drills and taps easily.

Re-assemble, slide it back into/onto the car, and start the shimming process. There's multiple posts about the need for this, and I won't duplicate them here. I'll just add:
- My car the DS was just fine, and set flat against the mounting plate.
- My car the PS needed about 1/8" at the top hole, about 3/16" at the bottom hole.

GoDadGo

05-11-2019, 07:20 AM

Big, Big, Big Progress!

Definitely Looking Good!

Jeff Kleiner

05-11-2019, 07:39 AM

Almost sounds like you've been coached John :p :)

Good job!

Jeff

Fixit

05-11-2019, 04:00 PM

Almost sounds like you've been coached

To quote Dirty Harry... "A man's got to know his limitations"... That's why I called a pro for his advice!

Fixit

05-12-2019, 08:21 AM

Yesterday was "maintenance" day around the 40 Watt... changed the oil in my F-150, the lawnmower, and the powerwasher. This meant that #9365 had to move out of the garage, so I took a few quick pics.

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Reality is really setting in again - There's an operational, driveable, legally equipped car in the driveway... that just short of a year ago was a frame, body, and boxes of parts!

Cruzzz

05-12-2019, 01:57 PM

Looks great John! I would have to start it up everyday just to listen to it rumble until it was legal. By the way, working on clutch switches and Russ Thompson turn signal install today using your posts. Thanks!

Fixit

05-14-2019, 03:54 PM

I would have to start it up everyday just to listen to it rumble until it was legal.

I'm thinking about firing it up every time the idiot dog 2 houses over is in the backyard howling at his shadow!! Too bad I really like the girls next door to the south, and the young couple neighbors to the north...

Fixit

05-17-2019, 06:22 PM

A few little tidbits got accomplished the last few days:
Rear View Mirror
Center Cap on the Wheel

I'm in a bit of a dilemma, as I've got my DMV inspection coming up, but I don't want to mount my mirror - there's NO WAY I can get it "centered" without the body & paintwork done, and I don't want to drill holes in the cowl that will need to be reworked/filled later.
Solution:
A piece of 1x1 aluminum angle was cut and trimmed down to fit the base of the mirror and the top of the windshield frame. A few holes drilled, some tapped, and a session on the rag-wheel with some polishing compound.
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The trimmed off pieces were filed down, and made into thread inserts that slid into the windshield frame
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It might just stay here...
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Another item off the list was the center cap for the steering wheel. A dry-fit revealed that the "in-concentricity" of the wheel to the hub wouldn't allow the insert to fit in. Also, the air-tight seal of the o-ring was a pain. I marked the areas of interference and sanded them down a bit, and drilled a 3/32" hole from the o-ring groove into the hub area void. The center cap now presses into place with effort, but can be removed without fighting pressure or vacuum.
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Fixit

05-31-2019, 04:58 PM

No offense to the "Show Me State" guys, but I'll scratch MO off my list. I thought MN was bad for storms & twisters!! Wasn't too far from Oronogo week before last.
Crazy busy with work travel, cabin opener, and relocating a kid from St. Cloud MN, to Naperville IL... and then I get to tour central Iowa next week.

#9365 is patiently waiting for its DMV inspection on 6/18. It's really weird having only two boxes of parts left in the basement! (Carpet and a condensed "mixed" doo-dads/leftovers box).

Fixit

06-01-2019, 05:49 PM

Patiently waiting....108215

Stillwater35

06-01-2019, 06:15 PM

A day like today makes the waiting harder. 73, sunny and no humidity.

Stillwater35

06-01-2019, 06:19 PM

For those that don’t know, we wait through this
108216
For this
108217

Fixit

06-16-2019, 08:29 PM

All loaded up and ready for my DMV inspection Tuesday afternoon.
The "local" inspection station is booked out until late October, so I'm hauling it about an hour away to St. Cloud (where I've been waiting about 3 weeks).

Just hook up & go!
108978 108979

(Actually got the car loaded, strapped down, and the rig backed into the 40 Watt with the wife's help and we're not filing for divorce!... I guess all that time at the boat ramp has paid off!)

KDubU

06-17-2019, 12:58 PM

Good luck, hope all goes well.

PeteMeindl

06-17-2019, 07:37 PM

Sending you good luck, John! Great accomplishment!

Stillwater35

06-18-2019, 09:04 AM

Go John Go!

Radman73

06-18-2019, 11:31 AM

Good luck!

Fixit

06-18-2019, 09:09 PM

It's official!

#9365 is registered with the State of Minnesota, taxes (ouch) paid, licensing fees paid, and a 60-day paper license plate on the trunk.

The "inspection" was really a non-event. I had documentation of the source of the major components, the guy at the testing station could see all the numbers on the parts/pieces, and PASS. It wasn't a safety inspection of any kind... no checking for anything - didn't even turn the key on.

I took my "PASSED" form about 10 miles up the road to the Stearns County DMV, waited in line about 10 minutes, and 30 minutes later (minus a whole lot of sales tax) I had a paper license plate, "Title Applied For" paper, and out the door. Called the insurance guy from the parking lot and said "Turn it on!".

There's now 6.3 miles on it. After dropping the car at home, then returning the trailer to my buddy, I got back home, had dinner, then made a run to the gas station and filled it up. Spent the next 20 minutes toodling around the neighborhood learning to drive the thing. Got a few clunks & rattles I have to check on, don't know yet if they're just it's noises, or I've got some work to do.
Brakes feel good, and were getting better as I drove. Lemme tell ya it accelerates like a scalded cat! I "rolled into it" a bit through 1st and 2nd and WOW.

Mark Eaton

06-18-2019, 09:43 PM

Awesome! I'm hoping to go kart mine this weekend

Cruzzz

06-18-2019, 10:22 PM

Congrats! Time to enjoy all your efforts!

Radman73

06-19-2019, 05:39 AM

Congrats! I imagine that build threads like this one are an inspiration to all of us who are considering the plunge.

GTBradley

06-19-2019, 09:41 AM

Very nice! I so hope mine is even half that easy. Congrats!

RJD

06-20-2019, 02:46 PM

I've installed the Breeze Cubby divider panel, per the instructions at about 11" back... but now I'm looking at it and it seems to be quite a bit taller/proud than the cockpit rear wall and the trunk hinge hoop.
Should the divider panel be the height/follow the contour as if I laid a straightedge from the cockpit wall onto the trunk hoop, or does the body rise in this space?

John,

Congrats on getting your roadster legal!

I'm getting ready to drop the body on. What was your experience on the cubby wall? How much did you have to trim if any? Thanks.

toadster

06-20-2019, 03:36 PM

Fixit

06-20-2019, 03:44 PM

Got done a bit early and back home today, talked to the "War Department", and she said "Go Have Fun".... (Gotta love this woman!).

I put another 30+ miles on #9365 and I believe that I knocked several significant milestones off the list:
- Got it out of 2nd gear
- Got it over 40 mph
- Got it out of 3rd gear
- Got it over 50 mph
- Got it into 5th gear
- Cruised for several miles in OD, at 60+ mph

Then:
Got on a side-road up to about 40mph and STOMPED on the brakes... It seems that my "guess & by golly" balance bar adjustment is pretty close - the rears locked just a millisecond before the fronts. Throughout my drive the brakes (and clutch) are bedding in and getting better and better).

Then...:
On the way home got caught under an obese cloud that decided to DUMP. Got seriously rained on - and yes, the object is keep moving at 35mph+, and get "less wet". Side-note, the FFR wiper kit seems to work pretty well, above 30mph.

Oil Pressure settled down into the "gearhead standard" of about 15+psi per thousand rpm at cruise, Coolant Temp never got above 90C the whole ride. The other thing I was impressed with was the Nitto's had some SERIOUS grip in the wet (being conservative in the rain)... I was really afraid of sheit getting "interesting" on water.

Papa

06-20-2019, 04:47 PM

I can't wait to be legal, but I put over 200 miles (Kleiner is probably rolling his eyes) just cruising my neighborhood over the last 18 months since my first start. I achieved most of your listed milestones, but don't think I ever got into 5th gear. Keep in mind that my neighborhood isn't a typical residential neighborhood and it's four miles around my "block". I also got rained on the first time I had the car at an "event", a neighborhood car show. Have fun, and be safe.

Dave

PeteMeindl

06-20-2019, 07:41 PM

That's awesome, John! Congratulations!

GoDadGo

06-20-2019, 07:56 PM

Gentlemen,
Keep A Big Golf Umbrella In Your Cars & A Fire Extinguisher Too!

John,
Congratulations on becoming a Legal Eagle!

Papa Dave,
Yep, Sir Jeff-Ski has got to roll his eyes all the time!

SerpantFL

06-20-2019, 08:04 PM

Sounds like tons of fun... Well earned... Drive safe...

GTBradley

06-20-2019, 10:50 PM

So envious. Enjoy!

Fixit

06-21-2019, 05:59 AM

I'm getting ready to drop the body on. What was your experience on the cubby wall? How much did you have to trim if any? Thanks.

No trimming needed. Slide it forward to where the ends are nearly touching the sides, fiddle with the 90* ears to mount, and you're done.

Fixit

06-21-2019, 06:00 AM

I'm curious - how do you get a taxable rate on the registration? bill of sale of parts? insurance estimated cost? ????

The lady at the DMV looked at my invoices for the kit, and the engine/trans package and did simple math at 6.5% sales tax... then the obligatory fees for this, that, and anything else we can bend you over for...

Fixit

06-21-2019, 05:44 PM

Just got back from "The Alignment Guy" (http://www.thealignmentguy.com/) in a neighboring Mpls suburb. He was recommended by a trusted Chevelle Club member, and several other "cone manglers" that do a lot of AutoCross.
Jeff's an interesting character... not PC/WarmFuzzy, and says what's on his mind. He likes a challenge, and recently set up an 818 for a local guy.
He's very methodical, and will chase an nth turn to get the numbers dead on - spent 3 hours on my car.

(It was nice to see that my strings, tape measure, and 60 year old bubble camber/caster setup wasn't too far off the mark. Completely safe & driveable for the short time it took to get a professional alignment.)

Pay no mind to the "Lotus Elise" at the top of the page... he had to punch in a similar suspension layout to baseline the machine/software:
109357

I haven't had a chance to give the car a decent run to compare the before & after, but on the short 4 mile drive home it felt GREAT!

Fixit

06-22-2019, 03:27 PM

Just got back from a 96 mile run with #9365. Absolutely flawless.
The alignment Jeff did was perfect... the car is not twitchy, tracks where you put it, hands off the wheel and it just rolls along.

I did the I-494/I-694 loop around Minneapolis, starting at the west center (I-394), and went clockwise. This interstate system encircles Mpls. & St. Paul. At the south end I veered off onto Cedar Ave, and did a cruise around our 3 inner-city lakes. There's a 25mph interconnecting loop around all of them, with a bazillion stop signs.
I figured this would give the car the best test of all situations... highway cruising, then seriously nasty stop-n-go.

#9365 was perfect. Again, the temp never got above 85C, oil pressure was about 20psi/thousand (normal for a Coyote?), and it just loves to cruise!

I think I nailed it on the selection of the gearbox final drive ratio. I'm running the 3.15 rear (where most seem to run the 3.55). At 65mph in 5th, the Coyote is loafing along at 2100rpm. Don't even have to downshift for passing, just press a little harder, the torque comes in, and the speedo climbs... RAPIDLY!

According to the "tell-tale" on the speedo, my max mph was 96 on this run... How'd that happen?? Musta been when two C6 Corvette weenies wanted to play a little off a stoplight... hmmm. After dusting them off, I had to remind myself there's less than 100 miles on #9365, and take it easy John...

The clutch has bedded in perfect... it's just totally smooth and predictable (Thanks Mr. Forte), doesn't feel like a "juice" clutch - more like a light mechanical.
According to the witness marks on the rotors the brakes are settling in as well - getting better and better with every run - and nearing full contact patch.

Hat's off to FFR. With a little time, patience, tools, and sweat you CAN build yourself an awesome car!

Fixit

06-29-2019, 05:43 PM

Happy to report #9365 has logged another 180 miles, and only had 1 (somewhat) minor hiccup. (I'll post that over in Coyote)

We're spending the 4th week at our lake cabin, and I couldn't resist driving the Roadster. (Mrs. Fixit has to head back to the cities on Tuesday for an appointment, so she drove the F-150 with all the supplies).

Drive Report:
Stopped at the 103-mile mark to top off on fuel. I wanted an easy number to calculate MPG. It clicked off at 5 gallons! 20.6 mpg
This leg of the run was a bit of highway, then 20 miles of stop-n-go, then another 70 miles of highway between 55 and 75 mph.
2500 rpm in 5th = 70 mph.
2150 rpm in 4th = 60 mph.
Engine temp varied between 80C and 90C depending upon speed.
Oil Pressure was all over the place between 60 & 80 psi depending upon rpm.

The car just likes to cruise at about 72 mph... nice mellow exhaust drone, not lugging, not spinning hard, just putzing along. Lotsa "thumbs-up" from truckers, bikers, and kids. This car is fun to drive... I'll give it a few hundred more "slow time" miles before really romping on it.

Fixit

07-02-2019, 04:04 PM

Snake at the Lake

109983

Fixit

07-20-2019, 06:35 AM

Roadster Update:
I had to get under it to adjust the E-brake cables, so I decided to do its 1st oil change as well. It's nearing 1000 miles, and I wanted to get the original oil out with whatever new engine "crud" that may have washed loose.
Everything looks great! There was just a tiny bit of black stuff on the magnetic tip of the plug, and zero "sparklies" in the filter. I poured the oil through a screen and over a magnet, and again nothing.

Fixit

07-20-2019, 12:04 PM

I'll retract my prior statement about "hot start"... It probably wasn't a heat-soak issue. It more than likely was a vibration/heat issue with a part that shouldn't have made it through QC.

Starter Solenoid Fix (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32688-Starter-quot-Heat-Soak-quot-common-or-possible-failing-(new)-solenoid&p=375112&viewfull=1#post375112)

Fixit

07-23-2019, 08:15 PM

One of the things I've noticed while driving #9365 was my left leg was sore afterward... and it's not "clutch-leg". I realized that I didn't have a spot to properly rest my foot, and I was holding it "cocked & ready" above the clutch pedal.

I wouldn't consider this a true dead-pedal, but more of a footrest.
I used one of the FFR supplied hood pin brackets. Trimmed the ear off to a radius and attached it with a couple of 1/4-20 nutserts & bolts into the driver's footbox sidewall.

111151 111152 111153 111154 111155

Fixit

07-26-2019, 03:04 PM

Spending the weekend at our lake place...

On the way, near Foley MN 111278

Boydster

07-26-2019, 03:14 PM

I like the dead pedal. Simple, easy and effective, made from leftover parts. Boom.

Fixit

07-30-2019, 04:29 PM

Happy to report another 400+, trouble-free miles on #9365.
Mrs. Fixit & I spend most of Saturday touring around north-central MN. From our place in Backus, we hit Walker, Bemidji, Itasca State Park (Mississippi Headwaters), Emmaville (pop. 4), Park Rapids, Nevis, Akeley, back to Walker again for dinner, then back to the cabin.

The starting/solenoid problem is fixed. Not a single hiccup all weekend.
Engine temp hovered around 80C the whole time, never over 85C.
The "sweet-spot" seems to be around 2200rpm in 5th. This is about 65/68 mph and she just purrs along.

The ride back to the cities was all highway, between 55 & 80 mph. Again, the car just loves to cruise.

111544 111545 111546

RJD

07-30-2019, 04:45 PM

Excellent. How was it cruising with the dead pedal?

Fixit

07-30-2019, 06:48 PM

How was it cruising with the dead pedal?

Believe it or not, I found myself forgetting it was there!
But that "muscle memory" was soon forgotten, and yes... it is a very worthy addition to the cockpit! There's just really nowhere to rest your left foot while cruising.

stacked33

07-31-2019, 12:24 PM

Fixit

08-03-2019, 04:39 PM

Been awhile since a "build" update.... been too busy DRIVING! :cool: Over the last few weeks I've been doing sound/heat deadener & the carpet.

Earlier in the build thread I detailed using the Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating on the aluminum panels, and I was waffling about doing some type of sound deadener/heat shield product. I did bite the bullet and chose to use Eastwood's X-Mat product (https://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-deadening-18x32-ines-34-8-sq-ft.html). I bought the 9-pack kit, and through careful layout it covered everything except directly under the seats, and back to rear wall. (I've got a whole lot of "trimmings" that could be pieced together into nearly a full sheet).

Supplies:
Utility Knife & Several replacement blades
Mfg. Suggested Roller or Wallpaper "Seam Roller"
Infinite Patience

X-Mat Install:
This stuff is nearly as diabolical as Anti-Seize. Once the backing paper is removed it will stick to everything, and it loses any "stiffness" it had.
- Spend a lot of time pre-fitting & cutting a sheet to fit an area.
- Make mental note of how the sheet will get fitted into/around/over an area
- Score through the paper backing, and make logical "removal strips" using your mental notes
- Peel off the backing paper only where needed to stick the sheet for the initial "set".
- As you work it into place, reach behind and remove the paper as you go and bond the product.

Carpet Install:
In a previous life I used to install killer audio systems in cars. This introduced me into automotive upholstery, and a few tips-n-tricks.

Supplies:
3M "Super 77" all-purpose spray adhesive
3M #08984 General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (warning... about $30 a quart! Ouch).
Cheapo "3 for a Dollar" paint brushes
Wooden Paint-Stir Sticks
"Bondo" spreaders
Empty Tuna Fish Cans
Waxed Paper
Masking Tape
LOTS of single-edge razor blades
SEVERAL replacement blades for a utility/carpet knife
111766

I'm very impressed with the FFR pre-cut pieces... they fit the panels just about perfectly, only minor trimming/fitting needed if at all...
Not too impressed with the quality of the carpet (more later).

I cannot stress enough to pre-fit a carpet piece into it's location. This will:
- Allow you to check fit
- Learn the sequence of "moves" to get it into/around/over/through obstructions
- Tells you where to initially apply glue & "stick" the piece, and how you can then fold it back and apply glue.

Follow the directions on the Super 77 can. Do the dual coat system (glue on the surface and the carpet). Let it tack up as directed!
**Warning** This will yield a bond nearly as crazy as contact cement. If the two pieces touch, and you apply any pressure - they are STUCK.
(This is where my "quality" statement takes hold. If you STICK the carpet down in the wrong place, and try to pull/pry it loose, it WILL pull the loop/weave out of the backing and you'll have a bald spot!!)

- I found myself more often than not spraying the 77 into the tuna can, and using a brush to daub/spread the glue into tight areas and along the seam edges or "paint" an area of the carpet backing. This method gives you a lot more control than the spray tip.

- Waxed Paper & Footbox panels... You've got to snake the glued & tacky carpet panels behind frame tubes - and they want to STICK to everything. This is where the waxed paper comes into play.
Cover the back of the carpet with sheets of waxed paper. Finagle the carpet piece behind the tubes. The waxed paper won't allow it to stick (much). When you get it into position, pull/tug the waxed paper out from behind and set the carpet piece.

- Do not try to glue & set the large rear cockpit & floor panels in "one go". Pre-fit, then stick one edge and work your way out & into the field... folding the carpet back on itself and gluing as you go.

- Clean up any glue overspray promptly with the 08984 Cleaner on a rag. It'll also clean the cheapo brushes.

- Use the paint sticks & Bondo spreaders to work/coax/jam the carpet into gaps & tight corners. You kinda want to "roll" the carpet into an obstruction, jamming and sticking as you go.

RJD

08-04-2019, 06:32 AM

X2 for X-MAT. For the footbox and transmission tunnel ceilings, I found their lightweight product useful as well.

111803

Jeff Kleiner

08-04-2019, 07:41 AM

...This stuff is nearly as diabolical as Anti-Seize...

:D:D:D

Preach it Brother!

Jeff

Fixit

08-09-2019, 01:28 PM

I wasn't the only one with a need for a place to put your feet. Sheryl/Mrs. Fixit also noticed a need for something.

Even at 5'10"+ she had another five inches of room to the back wall on the passenger side. Same thing... nowhere to comfortably rest your feet against, or "bolster" yourself.

I had some leftover foam sheet from Glovebox #1. I glue-stacked it together, shaped it, and had her give it a try...
112113 112114 112115 112116 112117
Good but not great.
As we know the seats in the Roadster aren't straight forward, they parallel the trans tunnel. They're canted outward about an inch.
I added another piece to the right side of the bolster and now it's perfect.
112118

Some leftover trunk carpet and it's done.
112119 112120 112121 112122

It's not mounted in any way, it's cut to fit around the frame tubes, and can be removed/installed in seconds.

(If Mama ain't happy, NOBODY'S happy!!)

Boydster

08-11-2019, 01:33 PM

Thats pretty cool.

Fixit

08-17-2019, 06:24 PM

Another 200+ miles on #9365, and (knock on my wooden head) ZERO issues!!

Did some toodling around with Mrs. Fixit in a few local towns with all the antique/boutique places... I guess payback is warranted for riding in an open-top hotrod with long hair is due..
(Great thing about this is the tiny trunk! Can't haul a ton of crap home!)
Confidence level is at 100% - the tack-weld on the starter solenoid post has cured any starting issues. I'll pack a bag, turn the key, and go to CA tomorrow in it if need be.

Had another milestone event this trip, the last 1-1/2 hours of the ride was in the dark... and not "city dark", waaaaayyyy out of town/in the woods/BLACKOUT dark. Again, no issues. The instrumentation lighting was great, headlights are aimed properly, just another drive. (I really wish the Speedhut clock hands lit up!!)

OK... two milestones. I finally had the "stones" to mash it and roll it up to 6500 in 1st, 2nd, then ease off in 3rd (No, not in the dark...) Lets just say we were well into triple digits when I looked over at the speedo. Haven't pressed the "tattle-tale" button yet...

Fixit

08-18-2019, 07:34 PM

On the way home tonight I was stopped at a light and glanced over...

112555

GoDadGo

08-19-2019, 12:47 PM

Way To Go!

Cruzzz

08-19-2019, 08:49 PM

Didn’t take long to add another 400 miles after our visit. Thanks again for the hospitality and taking us for a spin. We had a great time!

Fixit

08-19-2019, 09:46 PM

Enjoyed meeting you, your wife, and the dawg... I hope MN treated you "Minnesota Nicely"!
Mr & Mrs Cruzzz stopped by the 40 Watt Garage for a visit, and had the honors of the 2nd & 3rd non-family members for a ride in 9365, also when it rolled 1600 miles.

Fixit

08-27-2019, 05:49 AM

Had a visitor to the 40 Watt Garage on Sunday.
My previous neighbor to the south stopped by for a visit and to see how the neighborhood had changed. She brought her son Cameron along. He's a little gear-head who LOVES cars & trucks, and just flipped out when he saw the Roadster.

113016 113017 113018

Just had to get him belted in and let him drive!

You have to start them young... My Dad infected me about the same age... 113019 1967 or 68 at the Vdub dealership he was Sales Manager at.

Jeff Kleiner

08-27-2019, 06:44 AM

You have to start them young...

You got it John! This is in a frame in my office:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113020&d=1566905969

Here's my Grandson "helping" with a couple I had under construction 4 years ago right before he turned 4 years old:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62051&d=1482230716

He'll turn 8 on Monday and was here just last week 'helping" on some others. He couldn't care less about throwing a ball and would much rather be in the garage with "Pawpaw" which kind of disappoints his dad but not me ;)
Jeff

Fixit

09-14-2019, 05:12 AM

I might be able to go for a drive today!!

For the last month my neighborhood has been getting new gas & water service lines, storm drains, and curbs/driveway aprons installed. It's been a long-needed project, but (in my case) happened at the wrong time.
Our street looks like Omaha Beach after D-Day. The crews have been very good about berming up gravel & dirt at the end of the day to allow access, but with Ma Nature dumping rain on us every other day... Does FFR have a "float/pontoon" conversion kit? The last 50 feet of my street to the main road is 4" of mud.

114278 114279 114280

It's been dry for a few day now. Hopefully we'll get out today & tomorrow for some Roadster time!

Fixit

09-16-2019, 08:22 PM

We had a somewhat impromptu get-together of some friends/members/friends of members with hotrods at a farm about an hour south of the 40 Watt.

One of my pals has an intense '69 Chevelle, and 3 boys who are gearheads. The youngest is Gaston. He's the proud owner of a Cobra "powerwheels"... Well, we just had to get him up to full-scale.
114446

GTBradley

09-17-2019, 08:10 PM

Looks like he’s a details kinda guy too. I have a nephew in Abilene, KS who’s the same age. He went nuts over the red gelcoat cobra when I stopped in on the way to paint in KC. I hope he isn’t disappointed over the color change.

Fixit

11-18-2019, 02:59 PM

Bi-monthly TTT update:

#9365/"Otto" probably now has flat spots on his tires. Between work travel, relocating the inlaws, crappy weather, and life getting in the way... but,

The street is finally finished! I've got this beautiful, smooth asphalt road and a new transition apron down to it... Only problem is it's 38 friggin' degrees out, and MNDOT put 30M cu/yds of SALT down when we had flurries last week!!

Fixit

11-24-2019, 06:31 PM

After getting the Christmas lights hung on the house, and a quick one-two shop cleanup... resistance was futile.

#9365 had about 1/4 tank of gas in him, it was 43 deg's out... so what a better excuse for some seat time! Got suited up in some warm clothes, and went for a drive.
Stopped at the parts store and picked up a bottle of Sta-Bil, then proceeded to burn off about 1/8 tank of fuel. Lotsa thumbs-up, and a lot of others out there with their "toy" cars.

A stop at the filling station for some non-oxy 93, the appropriate dose of Sta-Bil, and a short drive home to mix it up and get it through the system.
(I'm guessing the next time #9365 sees daylight will be loading it in a trailer to be Kleinerized!)

Fixit

03-01-2020, 03:58 PM

Wow... 2 months since a post on my build thread.
There really isn't anything to report - no changes/updates to #9365/Otto since I tucked him away in November, but since today was pushing 40 degs... RESISTANCE WAS FUTILE!!

Yup, fired him up, let things stabilize and get a little warm, and went for a 10 or so mile jaunt around the neighborhood.

Here's the interesting part.
There's a text out there describing "Life with a Cobra Replica...blah blah". One sentence should be engraved on your brain and the dashboard.
"Disrespect me and I will kill you".

Add up the following:
Roads are cold but dry
Tires are cold
450HP on tap
Short wheelbase
Occasional puddle/run-off/wet on the road

I'll save you the trouble... it equals "spirited straight acceleration turning into a 1/2-lock powerskid don't snap the throttle shut or overcorrect keep your goddam foot off the brakes holy **** that retaining wall is close damn I saved it and need to shake the turds out of my pants" in less time than you took to read that.

(No Mr. Kleiner, you don't have any extra work.)

Probably what saved my azz is 40+ years of driving on ice for 6 mos. of the year... but these cars give very little warning. They're happy, happy, happy, SNAP, sideways.

Jimtmich

03-04-2020, 09:54 PM

Good update for all of us, glad it ended so well. Thanks for sharing.

toadster

03-11-2020, 02:01 PM

I have had guys say that their butt connectors and crimp splices are as good as a well soldered wire joint. I still think soldering is the best way to go.

these work really well if you have tough spots that a solder pen/gun are hard to use

Posi-Tap Connectors
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51Q2WtxsokL._AC_.jpg (https://amzn.to/3aNIGqG)

Fixit

04-06-2020, 03:30 PM

Due to our microbe friend Covid-19, I was furloughed on Friday, probably for 2 weeks minimum.

Today was "Small Engine Day" at the 40 Watt Garage.
I decided to tempt fate and summer-ize the snow blower, and get the lawnmower & power-washer ready for the season. 3 oil, and 2 spark plug changes later all the "one-lung'rs" in the stable are prepped.

Of course I had to make a run to NAPA for oil, plugs, and "supplies"... and #9365 was in the way of my workspace. So, what a better reason for a little cruise??!

Best part is I glanced down at the odo, and he rolled 2600 miles on the way to the parts store.

Fixit

04-09-2020, 05:45 PM

Been percolating this idea for awhile.
Watched a YouTube video a long time ago where a guy used some "off the shelf" tubing/bushing/spacers to do this, and it's been knocking around in my head.

I didn't want the mirror out on the fender.

What this amounts to is:
- a piece of 1/2" aluminum rod stock
- some 5mm x .80 "all thread"
- 5mm x .80 nuts & washers
- a few "0" hard rubber faucet washers

I dis-assembled the mirror, and did a swag on the angle of the housing. I guessed 15 degs. Another swag was to have the mounting post about 1-1/4" out from the windshield post.
The 1/2" aluminum was chucked in the mini-lathe, a 5mm hole bored through, then polished.
I cut it at 15 degs, leaving a little chunk on the end to be used as an angled washer for the inside of the mirror housing.
The other end was cut off at 1" from the "shallow" end of the 15 deg cut.

The 5mm all-thread was measured, cut, and then replaced the 2nd from bottom windshield "side iron" attachment screw. With a drop of LocTite blue, it was threaded in finger tight (bottomed) and allowed to set up a bit. A little tweak with a pliers got it perpendicular to the fore/aft line of the car.
Then the stack of pieces on the stud... rubber washer, tube, rubber washer, mirror housing, rubber washer, angled cut-off washer, lockwasher, nut.
I had to trim the relief cutout of the plastic cup insert a bit to clear my new parts, then re-assembled the mirror on the car.
(The 2nd hole in the mirror housing was plugged with a 5mm screw, nut & washer assembly).

It seems to work great! I can kick the wind-wing out as far as I've needed before.

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Fixit

04-19-2020, 05:00 AM

Now that I'm approaching 3000 miles on #9365, I'd like to check/reset the ride height.

I originally set it by finding the flattest & most level pad of concrete at the shop, rolled the car on it, and had a 1/2-tank of fuel in the car. I cut a piece of steel 2x2 sq. tubing to 4-1/2" long, and used it as a spacer gauge between the 4" frame tubes and the cement. A lot of up/down & back/forth to get it set.

I know the car has "settled" a bit, and I've got time on my hands.

Has anyone come up with an easier procedure, keeping in mind I don't have access to a lift or corner scales at this time.

Railroad

04-19-2020, 09:55 AM

I used a 2 x 4 block of wood. Just be aware the car will not settle, due to the tires not slipping on the concrete floor.
Bouncing does not work on concrete. Rolling the car seems to be acceptable. I use 2 sheets of visqueen under each tire. A garbage bag folded a couple of times will also let the tire move as the car is lowered and settles on the car's weight.
Hope this saves you some time.

Fixit

07-26-2020, 03:57 PM

3500-ish mile update:

I've been chasing a rattle in #9365 for months. A real "tinny" annoyance that occurs on EVERY little divot/crack in the road. I finally got the bugger!

We took the car to the lake cabin last weekend (20.4 mpg BTW) and it was on fumes when we got home. I was checking some things (unrelated) and decided to go fill up. On the way to the gas station I didn't wear earplugs... NO RATTLE!!

On the way home with a full load of fuel... RATTLE!
Hmmmmm.

I put the rear of the car up in the air on stands, rolled the jack back a bit, and set a hunk of 2x4 on the pad. I put the jack under the tank and gently applied some "lift". Just enough to put some pressure on the tank.
A look-see underneath revealed that the driver's side tank-strap bolt had about 1/16" freeplay/loose.

A few seconds with an allen wrench, a 9/16's, and a rattle that's been bothering me for MONTHS is gone!

TMartinLVNV

07-26-2020, 04:58 PM

GTBradley

07-26-2020, 07:58 PM

Satisfaction!

Papa

07-26-2020, 08:10 PM

I had exactly the same thing! I do like an easy fix.

Dave

Fixit

07-27-2020, 05:28 AM

I had exactly the same thing! I do like an easy fix

Yeah, it was an easy fix... Once I found the source of the rattle!!

Lets see...
Thumping around underneath with a rubber mallet
Re-engineering a new trunk latch catch-tube/rod (which turned out really cool BTW)
Duct-taping the trunk lid down temporarily
Pulling the roll-bar and checking I had adequate body hole clearance
Putting slit rubber hose on fuel lines anywhere they MIGHT possibly tap against something
"Sound Deadening" my evap canister mount/mounting

All of the above because I KNEW I HAD THE TANK TIGHT ON INITIAL INSTALL!!

Of course I didn't factor in it was empty at that time... or that multiple sessions of going from about 8 lbs. to 90+ lbs. of dynamic weight and millions of vibrations might have something to do with it "settling"... It was tight damnit...

Guys, take this little tale of woe as a lesson to get under your car after a few thousand miles and do a "bolt-check"... on the NON-obvious fasteners!

Fixit

09-07-2020, 04:42 PM

September update... been awhile.

Had a delightful early fall day in MN this Labor Day weekend, and took "Otto" (#9365) and my sweetie on a 220 mile cruise from the 40 Watt Garage to Alma Wisc. and back.

Wisconsin 35 is on the "Great River Road" byways system, and is a wonderful route that winds along the Mississippi, and we've done this road many times in Otto or Blackie.
(BTW... rolled 4200 miles, averaged 19+ MPG... gotta love the Coyote/Tremec/IRS setup!!)

Fixit

10-12-2020, 04:55 AM

October update...

Spent a few hours with the "design & color consultant" (Mrs. Fixit) Saturday cruising new car lots. There's a whole string of 'em along I-394, nearly every make & model.

No, we're not looking for a new addition to the stable... we were looking at paint colors!
Color chips & test panels are great, but seeing a whole car in bright sunlight can really show how a color "pops" or goes to mud in light or shadow.

People musta thought we were goofy, idling along in 1st up & down each aisle... occasionally stopping, backing up, etc. Got lots of thumbs-up though!

Fixit

10-17-2020, 01:44 PM

#9365 is now bunking with a couple of his siblings in South Central Indiana.
Jeff & I worked out a weekend where he was home, and I wasn't traveling... and this was it.

With rest/stretch & fuel stops it was about an 11 hour trek from Minneapolis to Jeff's place.

I was towing a rental Stealth "Predator" trailer. This unit is primarily for sleds, but the inside dimensions will allow a Roadster with a few inches to spare. The next offering was a full-blown car-hauler, which would fit 2 Roadsters with about a foot clearance on each side.

Let's just say pulling one of these is like dragging a brick through peanut butter. MPG went to sheit, averaging 9.4 mpg. With an open-deck car hauler or my boat I get 15+ mpg. The little 3.5 twin turbo was earning it's keep, nearly always in boost, but never a problem with power on tap and very few downshifts to lower than 4th gear.

136454 136455 136456 136457

John Ibele

10-19-2020, 05:14 PM

Well, you said October, and it's October. And you must be keeping color to you, Jeff and the Missus, or you woulda mentioned something.

One thing to note, you no longer sound like a transplant to Minnesota from somewhere else, figuring all those folks from more southerly locations would know what a sled is.

But, most of all ... yer gettin' it painted!! Way to go!!

Fixit

01-13-2021, 07:49 AM

The transformation has started.
(I hope some of my little oddities & extras didn't piss you off too much Jeff during disassembly!)

140674
140675
140676

Jeff Kleiner

01-13-2021, 08:02 AM

(I hope some of my little oddities & extras didn't piss you off too much during disassembly

Not at all John! Everything is well thought out. Once the skin came off it was very apparent that a good many of those 4500 miles were spent on the unpaved roads around your summer retreat....nothing wrong with that;)

Jeff

Fixit

01-13-2021, 09:42 AM

Once the skin came off it was very apparent that a good many of those 4500 miles were spent on the unpaved roads around your summer retreat....

1.2 miles to & from the cabin off blacktop, and after a rain usually 2 washouts on the way :p. Maybe I'll be a little more careful with paint on it.... NAH... Drive It!

(At least I don't have to worry about dents, or finding "unobtainium" panels with this hotrod)

Jeff Kleiner

01-13-2021, 11:34 AM

There were some pretty good "pocks" all the way through gelcoat ahead of the rear wheels! You're definitely a candidate for spats of one kind or another.

Jeff

Fixit

01-17-2021, 06:32 PM

I may have the world record for a POL item, but I can't fault FFR.
When I ordered my kit, there was rumor (then reality) of a "new & improved" front bumper/hoop piece. FFR offered me the "old-style" unit (several times), but by my own choice I decided to wait for the new piece. It finally arrived in late October of '20

#9365 was already in Indiana at Jeff's shop, waiting his turn in the queqe behind two other cars. (Jeff was gracious enough to let me "park" it there early, as it accommodated my schedule for delivery) so I shipped him the new front bumper.

I hope this "new & improved" bumper doesn't drive him to a rubber room wearing a canvas shirt that ties in the back. Pics are of (very) initial 1st fitment, after getting the body back on to start door/hood/trunk fitting.

140825 140826 140827 140828 140829

Our conversation on the fitment issues revolved around the (inherent to all MkIV's) non-symmetry of the body & nose-opening, and (possible) non-symmetry of the now one-piece front bumper. If I recall this is the 1st new bumper setup he's worked with.

Jeff Kleiner

01-17-2021, 06:41 PM

David Hodgkins

01-17-2021, 08:27 PM

It is the first, and as I told you when we talked earlier today it sort of fits and sort of doesn’t fit! It seems the nose is non-symmetrical one way and the hoop is non-symmetrical the other way :rolleyes:

Jeff

Easy fix; just turn it upside down!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82069&d=1520289623

:D

Fixit

01-20-2021, 05:31 PM

Dave... 141056

A few more pics from Mr. Kleiner - working on getting the doors to fit nicely.

141057 141058 141059 141060

Just the initial trimming and setup so they'd close & latch consistently at assembly was PITA... trust me on this - panel fitting & gapping is a skill-set.

Jeff Kleiner

01-20-2021, 06:12 PM

Papa

01-20-2021, 07:03 PM

John,
Hood & trunk lid are now on, adjusted, shaped and gapped and the windshield is installed. I'll put the sidepipes on in the AM to recheck their fit, set the scoop and at that point the mockup will be done...then it all comes apart again.

Jeff

While you're at it, charge the battery, put a few gallons of gas in it, and change the spark plugs. Oh, and can you align the front-end, too?

David Hodgkins

01-20-2021, 07:25 PM

yeah yeah, and check the oil too please.

;)

Jeff Kleiner

01-20-2021, 09:25 PM

While you're at it, charge the battery, put a few gallons of gas in it, and change the spark plugs. Oh, and can you align the front-end, too?

Shhhhh Dave. That was supposed to be a secret...now everybody will want that kind of special treatment ;)

Jeff

Fixit

01-21-2021, 06:53 PM

More progress updates from Mr. Kleiner...

Hood & Trunk are fitted/aligned, sidepipes re-hung & checked, hoodscoop cut-in and attached...
141116 141117 141118 141119 141120 141121

Fixit

01-21-2021, 06:59 PM

More progress updates from Mr. Kleiner... Pt. 2

141122 141123 141124 141125 141126 141127

My understanding is the next step is to take it all apart again, and get some primer on it. Then MORE work on getting things smooth!

BadAsp427

01-21-2021, 07:39 PM

John, That is looking great. You can really see the progress.

Fixit

01-24-2021, 06:30 PM

Update...

Panel fitting & Gapping is done. Witness marks & attachment points established (so the body will go back on the chassis in the same place) and it's "lift off". The next time the body will meet the chassis is after color for final fitment.
141364

Fixit

01-27-2021, 06:16 PM

Then MORE work on getting things smooth!

The "More Work" has revealed a few of what Jeff has called "blowouts". The Gel-Coat did its job and provided the smooth-ish final/outer layer, but it don't do no good when there's a void in the fiberglass layup underneath!
I'll assume only a trained & experienced eye would see the potential for one of these during sanding, and then proceed to give it a poke and find the hole.

141536 141537

Tiny pinhole.... After poking around...

Jeff Kleiner

01-29-2021, 12:50 PM

John,
Your go cart has been resting in the paint booth side and I needed to move it up to the house garage this morning so that your body can go in for primer. You'll be happy to know that 555G2 tires can handle 4" of snow easily (although it probably didn't hurt to take a little run at it from inside to make sure it got up the hill ;) )

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141614&d=1611941676

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141615&d=1611941708

Jeff

141614 141615

Fixit

01-31-2021, 09:12 AM

You'll be happy to know that 555G2 tires can handle 4" of snow easily
4".... a mere flurry!

Here's a "HWHL" tip for all of us... Keep your grungy shop clothes & shoes in the shop. Pad out to the shop in your PJ's or whatever, and change into the dirty gear... the reverse on the way back to the house.
141749

(I didn't see a cot or hammock in the shop when I was there, but I'm sure Jeff would be needing it if this dreck was tracked in the house!!)

#9365 got a post-bodywork bath, and is now awaiting the 1st coats of primer.
141750

I'm pretty confident we've narrowed down our main body color choices to two main contenders. Jeff had some mixed up and sprayed a few samples for me. They arrived yesterday.
141751

Now if Ma Nature would get back on her meds and let the sun shine through this muck of overcast we've had for a week... I could get some good pics of the colors in sunlight/shadow/inbetween.
He also sent a sample of a Pearl White, and Wimbledon White for an idea on the stripe color.

Jeff Kleiner

01-31-2021, 09:43 AM

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141749&d=1612101898

Looked like a crime scene and in fact Nancy came out to the shop and said "At first I thought you cut yourself...AGAIN."

Jeff

TMartinLVNV

01-31-2021, 12:33 PM

I am a Crime Scene Analyst Supervisor with 22 years of experience. So I feel very qualified in describing the crime that occurred with just this one photo. I see two possible causes to the sight we see here.

Two men walk into the garage and only one walked out. They started discussing whether or not the distributer belonged in the front or the rear of the engine. Tempers flared and tensions raised. Then they started discussing the proper rod ratio of stroker engines. One was convinced that anything less than 1.6 was going to immediately lead to excessive cylinder wear, piston slap noise, and an engine that will be on the verge of tearing itself apart do to piston dwell time and speed. The two men started to get red in the face, but were still civil. Next they discussed IRS vs a solid axle. The IRS proponent pointed to his lower back and said that the three fused disks were a direct result of driving his last car with a solid axle. The second man said "sit on a pillow." Things were about to boil over when they both decided to have a drink and cool off a little. As they were sipping their poison, the second man said "you really must have a steel bellhousing in these cars as driving with an aluminum one is just asking to be castrated or killed by an exploding clutch plate the first time you do a hard launch." The first man looked down at his feet and said "get real, there are 100,000 Mustangs with the Coyote motor on the road and they are doing fine." The second man then brought up how terrible the TKO 600 transmission is. "It is a truck transmission, clunky, and the gap between 4th and 5th gears is too big. You won't even be able to maintain highway speeds in 5th gear. By the time you upshift from 4th gear in this truck transmission, you will have slowed down so much due to wind resistance that you will be lugging the motor." The first man responded "take your overweight and overly long 6 speed and cram it up your rear end, just wait until the TKX is out on the street!" This was too much. The second man grabbed an unused F5 clutch cable and wrapped it around the others neck. He pulled tightly until 'snap', the standard F5 cable broke. "Should have bought one from Forte, they come in a two pack you know" the first man shouted as he rubbed his sore neck. Now it was time for the first man to make a move. He found a front sway bar, grabbed it, and beat the other man until the deed is done. He was not proud of what he had done but his honor had been questioned. He went outside of the shop, leaving the bloody footprints in the snow. He got into his Cobra and tried to start it. Click, click, click is all that he heard. He looked up at the sky and shouted "Damn Optima battery!"

The second scenario involves Jeff wanting a coffee break while sanding John's car. He forgot to take his shoes off and his wife yelled at him and he walked back to the shop.

RoadRacer

01-31-2021, 05:41 PM

I'm pretty confident we've narrowed down our main body color choices to two main contenders. Jeff had some mixed up and sprayed a few samples for me. They arrived yesterday.
141751

Loving that color on the right!

BadAsp427

01-31-2021, 06:36 PM

Starting to get real close, Of the two color options, I like the one on the right, especially with the off white stripe you described.

bldr.rob

01-31-2021, 10:07 PM

Both colors are awesome. Let us know how they look in daylight. Bet there's a lot of change with different light.

John Ibele

02-01-2021, 06:25 PM

Fixit

02-02-2021, 05:46 PM

From the git-go I didn't want a JAC... (just another Cobra). Even with my other automotive passion (Chevelle's) there's just too damn many Red or Blue cars. I don't like green, IMO Yellow just doesn't cut it on a Roadster, and I've already got a more-than-stupidly-high-maintenance Black car...

I saw a pic of a Roadster in a coppery-orange-rust color and just loved it.

These cars have more damn curves than Jane Russell & Marilyn Monroe combined, and the new copper/orange/rust paints just SCREAM for those subtle curves.
My conundrum is finding the one that doesn't go yellow in bright sunlight, and to mud-brown in shadow.

John Ibele

02-02-2021, 08:08 PM

"Jane Russell & Marilyn Monroe combined" ... you're showing your age ... aw, crap, I'm 59, you could just be playing to your audience ...

Anyway, that works for me. Not sure I'll look at a Roadster quite the same way again though.

Fixit

02-02-2021, 10:31 PM

more damn curves than Jane Russell & Marilyn Monroe combined
Well... I kinda like gals like FFR's slogan... Built... not Bought.

Lancaster Lad

02-03-2021, 10:36 AM

What do you have against Jane Mansfield?

Fixit

02-04-2021, 08:24 PM

What do you have against Jane Mansfield?

Nuthin'... but THREE of those iconic err, um, ah... together and we'd be talking lumps & bumps like the Michelin Man!

Fixit

02-05-2021, 05:07 PM

Jeff's been slaving away... making 3M stock go up with all the abrasives he's burning up. The "Mary Kay" primer goes gray during/after sanding.
142071

(I'll let him reply about quality/workability/results)

I also got outside this afternoon with the test panels. We finally had some bright sunshine, with a few clouds rolling through.
(The camera did some funky things going "blue" with the snow background, but it doesn't affect the purpose... showing the color change(s) in different light).

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Papa

02-05-2021, 05:13 PM

John,

It seems that the darker color tends to have more "pop" in the sun to me. Both are really nice looking.

Dave

cv2065

02-05-2021, 06:34 PM

I like the darker as well. Is that a tri-stage color?

speedfreak1211

02-05-2021, 06:39 PM

I like the darker one as well

egchewy79

02-05-2021, 07:06 PM

+1 on the darker one. The lighter one looks a bit orange to me, but my opinion doesn't really matter, now does it?

D Stand

02-05-2021, 09:54 PM

I like the darker one as well.

Jeff Kleiner

02-06-2021, 08:38 AM

If you wanted to see Mango Tango in the snow all you had to do was ask ;)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142087&d=1612618430

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142086&d=1612618368

Jeff

142086142087

Jeff Kleiner

02-08-2021, 09:16 AM

I think the double digit negative temperatures in Frostbite Falls caused John's feet to freeze to the tundra when he was outside pondering colors in the snow. While he tries to get the feeling back in his toes here's the latest.

High build primer went on (the pink is discussed in another thread ;)):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141775&d=1612129008

And was then blocked:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141997&d=1612443720

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142020&d=1612479715

Before getting 3 coats of 2K Urethane primer surfacer:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142260&d=1612793303

More sanding, first with 320 dry and 600 wet and then immediately before color it'll get a coat of catalyzed sealer.

Cheers,
Jeff

142260

Railroad

02-08-2021, 09:48 AM

Jeff, you are the man. Cannot wait until my slot opens at your shop.

Fixit

02-09-2021, 06:48 PM

Fixit

02-09-2021, 06:52 PM

One thing to note for those doing their own bodywork, or anyone that's sanding anything...
See all those piles of sandpaper??

Once a piece of sandpaper stops easily "cutting" or starts to clog up - GET RID OF IT... GET A NEW PIECE.
When it stops cutting, all you are doing from that point forward is making heat and more work for yourself.

Sandpaper is cheap.

GoDadGo

02-09-2021, 08:29 PM

John,

When The Sam-Man and I were sanding on mine, I felt like it would never end.
It was like working with Mr. Miyagi, but with sandpaper instead!

https://youtu.be/IpJ7mUXpURk

Almost There!
The wait will be well worth it.

Steve

RJD

02-09-2021, 08:41 PM

It's getting close! Now it's on me to decide on color.... AAARRGGGG!
142369

Admit it, deep down you already know the color... just say it. SAY IT!

Papa

02-10-2021, 09:56 AM

Admit it, deep down you already know the color... just say it. SAY IT!

I 100% agree with this! What color is it you "feel" you want? Ignore all the input from the peanut gallery, what matters in the end is that you have what you want. Deep down inside, you already know what that is. Make it happen!!! This advice coming from someone who struggled with color choice for over a year only to come right back to my first instincts and I couldn't be happier with my choice.

Dave

John Ibele

02-10-2021, 10:22 AM

Last coat of surfacer applied and sanded smooth (and another jump for those who invest in 3M...)
To quote Mr. Kleiner "Smooth as a baby's butt"...

It's getting close! Now it's on me to decide on color.... AAARRGGGG!
142369

Holy cow, man! Lemme see .... "cruised local dealerships with Mrs. Fixit ... " ... "seeing colors everywhere ..." and it comes down to this. Reallllyyyy????

Gee, I knew I could find this somewhere ... I know I guy who can help you decide ...

Hmmmm, seems like somebody suggested that back at post #3 :p

The color indecision just boggles my wife's mind---she says "These guys sit on your waiting list for months but when they finally bring their cars they still don't know what color they want you to paint it!" Gotta' say she does have a point. I've only ever had one guy have his color absolutely, positively, 100% selected and stuck to it when I got the car. Skidd, you don't have a bad choice in the whole bunch. Here's what I suggested to an owner who was suffering from color analysis paralysis a few years ago after I sent him 5 or 6 spray outs---tape each sample to the underside of the dining room chairs and invite the whole extended family over for dinner. After desert is served draw names out of a hat...whatever color is under Aunt Millie's or Cousin Vern's chair when it's turned over is the color the car gets painted. See how easy that was :)

Jeff

Jeff Kleiner

02-10-2021, 10:47 AM

Holy cow, man! Lemme see .... "cruised local dealerships with Mrs. Fixit ... " ... "seeing colors everywhere ..." and it comes down to this. Reallllyyyy????

Gee, I knew I could find this somewhere ... I know I guy who can help you decide ...

John,
Ironically enough that story is about a guy who was agonizing over THE SAME COLORS as our friend Fixit! He ultimately decided on Mango Tango however I think the family played musical chairs rather than drawing names :) :) :)

Jeff

John Ibele

02-10-2021, 11:19 AM

John,
Ironically enough that story is about a guy who was agonizing over THE SAME COLORS as our friend Fixit! He ultimately decided on Mango Tango however I think the family played musical chairs rather than drawing names :) :) :)

Jeff

Funny! Musical chairs ... well, there is a pandemic going on I hear ... I'm thinking patio chairs, electric blankets and plenty of friends and Shiner Bock on hand to help Fixit sort it out. But maybe wait 'til its above zero here ... nope, no time, the car is PREPPED AND READY FOR PAINT (???!!!).

Well, not my deal, as they say ... have fun, boys!

Fixit

02-10-2021, 05:16 PM

Funny... but I used to do the same thing as a ScoutMaster. We'd have the sign-up board for an upcoming event out for months in advance. Each a small, but mission-critical job to pull off the event. Crickets....

The month before the event I'd put each un-selected task in an envelope, and tape it to the bottoms of the chairs in the "parent" section of the Pack/Troop meeting. After presentation of the Colors and the Pledge, I'd ask the adults to reach under their chair. "You've had months to volunteer - you've just been volunteered!".

Fixit

02-10-2021, 07:00 PM

Geez... tough room.

I'm not "agonizing"... I've made my choice. It's the co-pilot I cohabitate & share a mattress with that I want confirmation from... HWHL.
(I've told her for years that "Men see in 8 colors... and "peach" is a fruit")

Let's just say it takes two to "Tango".

John Ibele

02-11-2021, 11:32 AM

Just having a little fun, John, and I totally understand. Really excited to see how it turns out.

And, you helped me with my color choice: green it is. When the time comes you can tell me which shade you dislike the least. :)

RJD

02-11-2021, 12:34 PM

Yes - just busting your chops. You're a good man to include Mrs. Fixit in the paint decision. He's a keeper Mrs. Fixit.

Fixit

02-11-2021, 04:48 PM

Gotta have a special one that'll let you pursue your hobbies, let you disappear for hours into the shop, and help unload the thing from the truck...
She was the one to suggest the break in the rear cockpit wall from carpet to pleather with a chrome strip.
142454 (plus, you don't mess with redheads!)

Fixit

02-11-2021, 06:55 PM

I don't like green, IMO Yellow just doesn't cut it on a Roadster, and I've already got a more-than-stupidly-high-maintenance Black car...

John... I won't bust your chops if you choose blue & yellow mixed together... Just remember what Kermit said... "It's not easy being green".
Dave... Sorry, but I had a bright yellow '64 Elky and a '79 Malibu once. Not crazy about yellow anymore...
Black... NO MORE BLACK CARS... Between hard water, rainspots, and seeing the tiniest little scuff or swirl mark...
142475 << This is a picture of my buddy's '69 Chevelle 'vert reflected in my 1/4-panel... 142476 No More Black Cars.

(I know you guys are just pulling my chain...)

Fixit

02-13-2021, 04:37 PM

OK folks... we have a winner. "Mango Tango" with Pearl Off-White stripes.

A few more progress pics from Mr. Kleiner... The body has been lifted off the "working buck", lowered onto the "Paint Buck", and the various other panels installed on his painting jigs. Won't be too long now!!
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Fixit

02-24-2021, 06:35 PM

They say a picture's worth a 1000 words... (didn't say nothin' about dollars!)
143376

Fixit

02-25-2021, 02:14 PM

Well, the stuff is out of the cans and on the car. Stripe color went down early this week, then the body color.
Jeff sent me some teaser pics earlier today...
143414 143415
143416 and then... wait for it....

143417

Clear coat coming soon

Jeff Kleiner

02-25-2021, 03:25 PM

I’m currently taking a 10-15 minute break in the sunshine and checking the forum before putting on the 3rd. coat of clear. Stand by...

Jeff

Fixit

02-25-2021, 06:08 PM

This post backs up a step or 6...

143434 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143435&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1614294170

The stripes are a 3-stage paint (base, pearl, clear) system. The area was shot with the base & pearl... a centerline established.

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The stripe pattern layed out and masked...

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Then back to an overcoat of the dark gray sealer (covering the white "overspray") to ensure base color consistency.
There is a lot of work involved here!

Papa

02-25-2021, 06:14 PM

Isn't it exciting to get those first pics of color? Wait until you see it with the clear and then in the sun! When Jeff sent me those pictures of my car, I just sat there and stared at them.

cnutting

02-25-2021, 06:52 PM

Nice color choice!

nuhale

02-25-2021, 07:01 PM

Congrats!! It’s a awesome feeling to see it in color right???

Fixit

02-26-2021, 07:34 AM

Jeff shot the clearcoat and sent me these updates.... all's I can say is WOW.
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GoDadGo

02-26-2021, 07:52 AM

Looking Good!

RJD

02-26-2021, 09:31 AM

Beautiful!

Fixit

02-28-2021, 08:19 AM

Jeff rolled the car out of the shop the other day, and shot a few more pics in the sunlight... I am a very happy man!

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egchewy79

02-28-2021, 08:29 AM

stunning.
it looks like jeff if definitely worth the wait.
hopefully i'll be getting mine to b-town later this summer.

RJD

02-28-2021, 09:04 AM

Wow! Homerun. Another head-turner about to hit the streets.

hineas

02-28-2021, 09:22 AM

Beautiful!

Al_C

02-28-2021, 10:00 AM

Looks great!!

GTBradley

02-28-2021, 11:10 AM

Man that is one pretty color and just in time for the driving season. Where are you headed to this summer?

D Stand

02-28-2021, 11:18 AM

Looks great John!

Fixit

03-03-2021, 06:40 PM

Where are you headed to this summer?

Hopefully by the time "driving season" hits up here in the Nort-land, the Covid restrictions will be lifted (or people won't givadamn) and I'll start hitting a lot of the local shows & cruise-in's! It'll be a change from last year. I was the one who didn't givadamn, and being in gel-coat barrelled down gravel roads, sat on the thing, set drinks & food on it... now I'll have to treat it a little nicer. (Still drive it like I stole it, but with a little more concern!)

GTBradley

03-08-2021, 07:41 PM

I just drove mine back from KC - got 600 miles under my belt from that trip. I have to say it is a long haul car if you’ve got the desire and that top is worth it’s weight in gold when you have 50 mph crosswinds! Which we did!

cob427sc

03-09-2021, 03:30 PM

I painted my last roadster the same color with brite white stripes. I'm sure your finish is much better than my garage spray but boy does it pop in the sun!

Fixit

03-29-2021, 09:07 PM

Been awhile... but a progress report on #9365.

Last I talked to Jeff he was "I'm rubbin' on it"...

Deep into "Cut n Buff".

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Fixit

03-30-2021, 06:09 PM

Things are coming together! Buffing/Polishing is done, and the body is back on for the last time.

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RJD

03-30-2021, 06:30 PM

Stunning. A rolling piece of art. Love the color - I'm reminded of a Hotwheels Car I had as a kid in that color. Bonus - it'll be done in time for some spring cruzin too.

Fixit

04-02-2021, 03:44 PM

Re-assembly is complete.
Got a message from Jeff, all the hinged things are back on, side-pipes installed, and it's ready for delivery! He rolled it out for a few quick pics...

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PeteMeindl

04-04-2021, 01:57 PM

wow! That looks fantastic! Congrats, John.

GoDadGo

04-04-2021, 02:46 PM

Nice, Very Nice!

Fixit

04-07-2021, 05:33 PM

Picked up #9365 from the House of Kleiner on Tuesday morning.
Jeff had it "staged" in front of the house so when I crested the hill leading to his place there was this gorgeous thing sittin' in front of the house.

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Took care of some business, did some bench racing, visited his neighbor (with a beautiful '65 Chevelle), got the car loaded up and headed back to Aurora IL for the night.
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The trip back to Mpls was uneventful, other than the Wisconsin State Patrol having a fund-raiser about every 15 miles on I-90/94 the whole way... Got it home, unloaded, and am now just chillin' with a chilled one!

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HotrodMike

04-07-2021, 05:55 PM

That is some stellar work, love the body and color. How long did it take to do this one?

Jeff Kleiner

04-07-2021, 08:36 PM

Nice to see it back home John; you have built a great car and it was a pleasure to work with you! As I told ya', since I get to see them "without their clothes" the truth gets revealed and yours is outstanding...well thought out and well executed. :cool:

...How long did it take to do this one?

Hard to say Mike. This was kind of an on again, off again one. Because of trailer availability and his work travel schedule John brought it early even though he understood that I wasn't going to get to work on it right away (something that others have tended to forget when I've allowed them to bring cars at their convenience) so I didn't really begin in earnest until after New Years. After it was prepped, primed and ready for paint we got a cold snap with single digit temps so it went on hold for about 2 weeks---I can put plenty of heat into my paint room but with the 12,000CFM exhaust fan taking it out along with the paint overspray the 2 furnaces can't keep up once the outside temperature drops below about 20 degrees. I think it actually got paint mid February and then it just sat around looking pretty for a month or so since John planned to pick it up during a family trip that brought him 2/3 of the way here last week.

Hopefully the weather in Frostbite Falls will let you start rolling up some more miles soon---but maybe you can try to keep it out of the Minnesota mud, at least for a week or two :p

Jeff

Fixit

04-08-2021, 06:28 AM

but maybe you can try to keep it out of the Minnesota mud
:rolleyes:

Hey... you got a free lesson in MN geology, and something other than Mary Kay dust to sweep up!
(A little back-story here)
Shortly after go-kart and body on/legal/drive it stage, my street came due for sewer replacement. Literally one day I had blacktop, the next it was dirt. Then 6 months of excavating, backfill, excavating, backfill, repeat... as they made their way down the street. Each evening they'd berm up dirt & rock at the driveways so we could get in/out. Then Ma Nature decides to go off her meds through most of the project and decides to rain an inch every other day. We lived in a bog for months.
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And, the last 1.5 miles to my cabin is on a dirt/gravel road... with multiple trips each day when there, the crud adds up.
Well, a little goo isn't going to stop me, and we racked up 4500 miles until I delivered the car to Jeff. (I probably coulda hosed it off better...)

I'd like to publicly thank Jeff for an incredible job.
He was more than accommodating with my delivery & pickup needs, and a pleasure to work with. The job came in only slightly over agreed price - due to minor hardware expenses. (Slightly was less than $50).

jiriza84641

04-08-2021, 11:21 AM

Color looks, great, JK did a stellar job once again. Till the end of summer I wait.

Fixit

04-08-2021, 07:24 PM

Since it's been rainy & crappy up here in "Frostbite Falls"... I got to it and mounted the rear bumper and finished the rear splashguard/wheelhouse pieces today.

The rear bumper was a non-event. Just drilled out the supplied holes to 7/16", cut new all-thread a bit longer, and bolted it on.

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Fixit

04-08-2021, 07:31 PM

Now that the body is in it's final & locked down position, I could finish the rear wheelhouse splashguards (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Bodywork-Back-Home-in-Paint!!&p=365744&viewfull=1#post365744) I made.

Some cardstock templates were cut/fitted, then transferred to some 1/8" ABS sheetstock. Once mounted the gaps were filled with black silicone sealant. This should keep the water/crud/muck from being flung up into the underdoor/rocker area.

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RJD

04-08-2021, 07:42 PM

Beautiful. Congratulations!

Fixit

04-11-2021, 06:29 AM

I was never too pleased with the FFR supplied screens for the brake ducts. One look at my house gutters and hmm.... not going on the car.

I bought a 36x36 sheet of stainless screen, cut some forms and fabricated my own. A piece of cardboard was held up against the inside of the opening and the opening was traced. The template was cut out about 3/16" outside the trace line, then transferred to a hunk of 3/8" aluminum plate I had laying around.
A few minutes on the bandsaw & sanding station and I had a forming plug.

A section of screen was cut about 3/4" oversize, it and the plug clamped in the vise (soft jaws). Lots of love-taps with a rubber mallet, working around the edge yielded some presentable pieces. (The driver's and passenger side cardboard was so similar, that only one plug was needed. Just flip for whatever side you're making)

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The raw edges were trimmed with a sharp, new snips, a few test fits, then the pieces held in place with a paint stick & ty-raps.
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A generous blob of black silicone on a finger, pressed through the mesh around the rim, then smoothed holds them in.

(a similar procedure was used to make a screen for the oil cooler opening)
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Fixit

04-26-2021, 01:58 PM

04/26
Reasonably productive weekend on #9365. The last pieces of carpet went down.
Yup, those goofy octopus lookin' things that cover the doorsills (that don't fit fer crap!).

I anticipated some gaps and mis-alignment, so I masked off & sprayed the sills with rattle-can satin black. Several test dry-fittings, a trim here, a trim there and then glued them down. All in all it didn't turn out too badly... but having a seam on the "doorsill to sidewall" bugs me. It's a scuff/wear area. Many builders have the carpet edged to blend this raw seam, I went a different tack.

Got a length of 1x1x1/16 aluminum angle. Measured it a bit long, cut it off, and then started to experiment with how to bend it (I don't have a stretcher/shrinker rig).
V1.0 - Cold bending just results in the piece cracking & tearing. (Kinda expected this but had to try).
V2.0 - Heat. Well, a propane torch just won't cut it. Not enough heat concentrated in the bend area... piece cracked again.
V3.0 - Hotter Heat. Broke out the Oxy/Acetylene rig. Plenty of heat... yup, don't pay attention for 20ms and you have a puddle.
V3.1 - Payed closer attention to the torch, nearly made a presentable piece... but just had to give it that little bit more and cracked it. (arggg).

V3.2 & .3 - After a run to the hardware store for more raw materials... I was able to produce two nice pieces. Playing the torch at that fine line of "Pliable & Puddle" the pieces bent to the measured 25 degs, without a noticeable amount of stretch/thinning in the curve.
The car was measured, the pieces marked (and double checked!) and cut to length. 3 mounting holes were drilled, and the pieces used as templates to drill the car.
Some time with a sanding block, then the buffing wheel with a few grades of compound and the pieces were done. They're held in place with #6 SS screws.

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TMartinLVNV

04-26-2021, 08:03 PM

That looks really good. I have that seam exposed and it does bother me a little bit.

Jeff Kleiner

04-27-2021, 06:01 AM

Looks great John :)

Jeff

Papa

04-27-2021, 10:40 AM

Looks good and very similar to what I did, but I just did relief cuts on mine at the bend locations.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118610&d=1575759042

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118609&d=1575759026

Fixit

05-02-2021, 05:33 PM

FF33rod

05-02-2021, 06:29 PM

How is the ground at the alternator? Initially I was seeing a few screwy readings.
I have an accessory drive, pulleys, etc with a lot of paint and clear coat so I ended up putting a separate ground strap from the alternator to the frame and things looked a lot better

Steve

edwardb

05-02-2021, 07:32 PM

Since 1st start, my charging system output voltage has been 14+ volts - nearing 15v. Always had a ??? in my head about that, and never was really comfortable about it.

I'm running the Ford Controls Pack wiring harness, and (did) have the 3-prong connector plugged into the alternator. (Large red to output post - standard stuff).

Did some research today on some Ford forums, filtered for guys using a Coyote crate engine, and several times a reply came up with "unplug the 3-prong connector". So I tried it. Output voltage dropped from nearly 15vdc to 13.7vdc... and stayed there, regardless if there was no accessory load, or if I switched EVERYTHING on.

I'm thinkin' the ECM is sending "false" information to the alternator, and having the output go high. When the control connector is off, (guessing) the alternator internally regulates to the "old school standard" of about 13.7 volts.

Anyone have a similar experience?

Many including me have noted the somewhat higher voltage with the Coyote setup. So what you're seeing isn't unusual or the first. I've run mine for three seasons on the Roadster and now starting the second season on the Coupe. No issues and everyone else I've talked to say the same thing. No issue. Just a few months ago someone on here mentioned that Ford Performance told them to unplug the connector. First I'd heard that. That was for a specific issue and didn't solve the problem BTW. Turned out to be a loose connection. Interesting you're seeing the same advice on other forums. Anyway the PCM is doing more than just turning the alternator on or off. It's monitoring other things and adjusting accordingly. Obviously couldn't do that without the control cable attached. I'm leaving mine connected. https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=361&f=Charging%20System.pdf