Wallace18's 35 Hot Rod Pickup

[wallace18]

Installed my window stuff in the door. Moved my 12V cut -off switch to the rear of the cab. I can reach it with seat in place. Door panels are very nice, IMO.

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[wallace18]

Some FYI. There is lots of room behind the seat when it is in place. I am going to install my radio speakers back there. Also as above my cut -off sw. is there also. I really do not think you can make the seat back tilt forward. Maybe the whole seat but not the back. Arm rest is really positioned nice, IMO. I am hoping to get all my interior stuff done by Jan1st then send truck out for paint.

[Marv]

Some FYI. There is lots of room behind the seat when it is in place. I am going to install my radio speakers back there. Also as above my cut -off sw. is there also. I really do not think you can make the seat back tilt forward. Maybe the whole seat but not the back. Arm rest is really positioned nice, IMO. I am hoping to get all my interior stuff done by Jan1st then send truck out for paint.


There is definitely a lot of space between the cab rear and seat, pitty the tall guys. Had to squeeze my trans tunnel in at the front of the seat to get the base down. Tight fit for sure. Your build is looking good, I have an appointment with our DMV on the 19 th for registration and plates.

[wallace18]

There is definitely a lot of space between the cab rear and seat, pitty the tall guys. Had to squeeze my trans tunnel in at the front of the seat to get the base down. Tight fit for sure. Your build is looking good, I have an appointment with our DMV on the 19 th for registration and plates.

Hey! I am one those tall guys! I am 6'3" but have a 32" inseam. It is a little tight fit, but I am comfortable. If I had a manual trans it would be more difficult, IMO. Best of luck with the DMV.

[wallace18]

Picked up my cab from Chris yesterday. He fixed the crack, tightened up the hinge openings and sprayed the inside of the cab with 2 coats of Lizard skin sound deadener. Marsha and i sprayed the black nylon flock on the inside this morning. We brushed the whole inside that we wanted covered with the glue in about 5 minutes. Then I sprayed in the flock with the cab upside down. We covered the cab with HF blankets and have a small heater going inside. I hope this will allow it to cure by Monday night. The picture of it flocked is with the exsess laying in certain areas. All that will shake out once dry. It looks like it may come out nice. Won't know for sure till Monday night. I also coated the raw fiberglass on my bed sides and roll pan with truck bed liner. Hope to get going on getting this truck ready to ship out for paint by the 31st.

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[Marv]

Flocking looks like it will turn out good. Nice job!

[rponfick]

I agree with Marv, the flocking looks good. How much material did it take? I see online kits that cover smaller areas (glove boxes, etc.) but you would need more glue and flock to cover such a large surface as the cab area.

I did my bed sides and rear in Herculiner also, and am very please with how it came out. Will do the fenders and running board later. Also, considering bed liner as base coat before flocking cab, to create a more consistent surface.

Ralph

[wallace18]

I agree with Marv, the flocking looks good. How much material did it take? I see online kits that cover smaller areas (glove boxes, etc.) but you would need more glue and flock to cover such a large surface as the cab area.

I did my bed sides and rear in Herculiner also, and am very please with how it came out. Will do the fenders and running board later. Also, considering bed liner as base coat before flocking cab, to create a more consistent surface.

Ralph

Ralph, I bought the flock and glue in the large quantity- 5 lbs of flock and 1 gallon of glue. So it is hard for me to be exact on how much I used. My best guess is 2lbs of flock and 1.5 qts of glue.

[rponfick]

Well, you have enough for the bed sides, rear panel and fenders. That would look cool.
Ralph

[wallace18]

I just drove 656 miles today to pick up my aluminum wood look bed from Smokey Road Rod Shop. http://www.smokeyroadrodshop.com/Aluminum-Bed-Floors.html

I have been back and forth on what to do with the bed. My wife, Marsha loves the look of wood. I hate the upkeep of a real wood bed. So this aluminum makes us both happy. They made the bed so it can be installed on top of the S/S floor or by it self. The flock is all cured and I vacuumed up the excess. Here is some pics.

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[bnelson]

Think your on to something with the flocking man that looks great! The aluminum looks good as well. I'm an avid woodworker so will be nothing but solid hardwood for me :)

[wallace18]

I wanted to modify how the sides bolt to the chassis. My kit came with very small diameter nylon spacers. The side would deform when I would tighten the nuts. So I welded up some steel plate the same thickness as the nylon spacers. This gives me more surface area and now no deformation. I installed the front of the bed on top of the S/S floor this time so after paint it will just rivet on top easy. This allowed me to permanently rivet the S/S floor to the frame with S/S rivets. I had to enlarge the area for the fuel filler to go thru the S/S floor. The S/S strip was too close to the FFR location. I moved it 1/4" to the outside so the screws will no hit the strip. Still have to drill out the wood look aluminum. The wood look bed goes on top and covers everything. I also drilled some drain holes for H2O just in case. The bed attaches to the aluminum channels with T-Nuts. I started on the outsides and worked in. I mounted the channels with tec-screws. It fits great and there is a lot of adjustment with the S/S strips to allow custom fit. All removable easy any time.

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[wallace18]

Busy day today. I x-mated the interior, then installed carpet. Made speaker housings and mounted behind seat. Fit and sound great! Installed 3-point seat belts and seat. Seat belts work super! Sure beats 5 -point. Next is shifter boot. Chris coming by tomorrow to help put cab and doors back on. Then a few loose ends and it is off to paint. Woo Hoo!

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[CVOBill]

Tom, does the truck come with regular seat belts? I put them in my Hot Rod, I don’t mind the racing harness in the Cobra but didn’t want them in the Hot Rod.

[wallace18]

Yes the 3-Point is an option to the best of my knowledge.

[wallace18]

Chris came over and we installed the cab and doors. I have a few days of small items to knock out then off to the paint shop. Inside of cab looks nice in place with interior, IMO. :cool:

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[WIS89]

Tom-

She looks terrific! The interior came together very nicely. The flocking is a very creative solution that I think works great! I really like the bench seat as well.

The aluminum bed slats are perfect! It is a great solution, and from the pictures look like real wood. It also appears that there is some texture o the finish; am I looking at that correctly?

As always Tom, you are doing a wonderful job, and I have enjoyed following along! I look forward to seeing her after paint, and with all the finish bits you will be adding.

Thanks for letting us follow along, and Merry Christmas!

Regards,

Steve

[Houdini]

Wallace 18
whats measurement from box floor to bottom of rear glass ??


I want to cruise and haul spares, luggage and all that stuff that weighs us down and have a diamond deck topper to put on the box just not enuff room my other cruisers have trunk full and the back seat full to top, so the truck box is gonna b e inadequate

[wallace18]

Wallace 18
whats measurement from box floor to bottom of rear glass ??


I want to cruise and haul spares, luggage and all that stuff that weighs us down and have a diamond deck topper to put on the box just not enuff room my other cruisers have trunk full and the back seat full to top, so the truck box is gonna b e inadequate

i'll check in the morning for you.

[wallace18]

Wallace 18
whats measurement from box floor to bottom of rear glass ??


I want to cruise and haul spares, luggage and all that stuff that weighs us down and have a diamond deck topper to put on the box just not enuff room my other cruisers have trunk full and the back seat full to top, so the truck box is gonna b e inadequate

I measured 17" from S/S floor to bottom of window. If you have a wood or another type of floor in that measurement will decrease some. Hope this helps you out.

[wallace18]

Today was drivers door power window day. As with all things from FFR fiberglass wise the gap for the window and seals is small so you can make it fit how you want. Here is what I did. Not sure if it will work this way for everyone but gives a starting point. My drivers door had the largest gap down in the back bottom of the door. It measure 0.65". I installed just a small piece of inner and outer seal there to see the gap. It looked almost perfect for the window to go up and down. I made a gauge that was 0.65" wide and scribed all around the door on the outside. You can't trim the inside. Once you look you will see why. I used a Dremel cut off wheel and made the opening as close to 0.65" as I could. I took the door on and off about 4 times to trim. I finally used a socket that was 0.69" in diameter to se if my gap was even all around. Then I installed the cat head outside seal first then the felt inner one. Don't worry the felt will not face the window on the bottom. This is normal. I installed the window all the way up into the door past the seals. Then mounted it to the P/W track. Low and behold it worked perfect fist time. This seals so much better than the 33 window, IMO. Almost OEM like. Should make for a rattle free and leak free door as far as the window goes. I am very happy with it overall. Passenger door up next. Hope this helps someone down the road. :cool:

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[DamnYankee]

Good to hear about the window functionality. thanks !!

[Robodent]

Tom, great ideas with the flock and aluminum wood look bed. Im just starting my 35 truck build and gathering as much knowledge as I can from those who have gone before me. I acquired truck #0016 outside of Detroit last weekend. A complete kit untouched due to health reasons. I looked up the flock material and holy cow its manufactured 45 minutes from my house in Illinois. When Im ready just drive up there and get it. How well is it sticking ? My concern would be when I paint mine would the fibers fly around and end up in the paint booth on all my parts. No build thread from me yet, I have plenty of parts out getting powder coated. Rob

[wallace18]

Tom, great ideas with the flock and aluminum wood look bed. Im just starting my 35 truck build and gathering as much knowledge as I can from those who have gone before me. I acquired truck #0016 outside of Detroit last weekend. A complete kit untouched due to health reasons. I looked up the flock material and holy cow its manufactured 45 minutes from my house in Illinois. When Im ready just drive up there and get it. How well is it sticking ? My concern would be when I paint mine would the fibers fly around and end up in the paint booth on all my parts. No build thread from me yet, I have plenty of parts out getting powder coated. Rob

Once you let the flock cure the correct amount of time, you can use a vacuum and get rid of excess. Once that is done it is almost impossible for the flock to come off. I did a test piece (see my thread) and could not even scrape off the flock once cured. You would be tape off interior for paint anyway.

[wallace18]

Getting my punch list down some today. I finished up the passenger door seals and P/W. Installed the door pulls, side mirrors and shifter boot. I am going to find an inside rear view mirror I like. None came with my kit. I am waiting on some different stuff for the inside door opening as well as an electric hidden license holder. Then it is off to paint.

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[herb fraser]

Hi Tom, this is what I found on amazon prime , it flexible automotive trunk liner ,comes in several colors, I purchased some and it works great , it is VERY flexible will go around all corners, covers everthing so you don't have to get the interior very smooth:
Yard Black- Automotive Trunk Liner Auto One Upholstery Carpet Flexible 54"W Lining Fabric

[wallace18]

Installed the door panels today. I am not using the FFR door handles inside. I am using a direct fit deal from Watson's StreetWorks that bolts on the latch. One less cable IMO. The door panels are very nice but are flat. The door is not flat and the panel does not like to bend easy. I am worried that the black screws with the kit will pull out of the fiberglass in time. So I installed 1/4-20 rivnuts at all four corners. I will then paint my S/S washers black to blend in with the panel later. I bought some neat little chrome deals to cover up the door handle hole. I am satisfied with the outcome.

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[rponfick]

Tom, any part numbers on the door handle and chrome inside cover. Your idea looks simpler than cable.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Tom, any part numbers on the door handle and chrome inside cover. Your idea looks simpler than cable.
Ralph

Here is there website. Several different styles to choose from.

https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/oval-trim-neat-nobs/

[wallace18]

Couple of questions to me about the bed corners. In the front corners I am using a 1/8" S/S rivet to hold the side to the front so the gap is nice.Rivet not in photos so we can separate panels for paint. I plan on having my body/Paint guy clean up the fiberglass at all four corners but leave the square hole open in case I need to add a screw or bolt in the future. My fiberglass sides were coming away from my S/S so I installed 3 S/S 1/8" rivets along the top to hold it all together. Hope this helps those who PMed me questions. TW

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[herb fraser]

Couple of questions to me about the bed corners. In the front corners I am using a 1/8" S/S rivet to hold the side to the front so the gap is nice.Rivet not in photos so we can separate panels for paint. I plan on having my body/Paint guy clean up the fiberglass at all four corners but leave the square hole open in case I need to add a screw or bolt in the future. My fiberglass sides were coming away from my S/S so I installed 3 S/S 1/8" rivets along the top to hold it all together. Hope this helps those who PMed me questions. TW

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Thanks Tom it does help

what are the ribs you have running across the bed ?

[rponfick]

Tom, thanks for your comments. I have been thinking of how to treat this area. My SS sides are very firmly glued to the fiberglass bed sides, so I am surprised by your need for rivets.
I am considering filling in the square corners to give a more finished appearance to the bed ends..
I note you have a drilled hole in the SS front bed panel toward the bed side. I plan to also use a bolt, or some other attachment, to pull the side bed panel together with SS front bed panel. I cannot seem to get the gap to disappear without some type of pressure on it.
Keep up the good work.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Thanks Tom it does help

what are the ribs you have running across the bed ?

They are the mounts for my aluminum/wood look bed. See post #262.

[wallace18]

Today I finished up the wiring to the doors. I dyed the check straps black with shoe polish. I sealed up open areas of the cab with pool noodles and flexible spray foam. Then sprayed that with flex-seal black. Also flocked the rear corner aluminum trim for the cab and glued carpet to the front lower trim of the cab. I mocked up the scuff plates and engine turned them. All that is left is my license mount and light and then load up to go out for paint on 1/2/19.

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[wallace18]

Installed my hide-away license holder and LED license light. It looks really low but it is 1/2" above frame. P/U all loaded now to head to Huegenics for paint.

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[KenWilkinson]

Installed my hide-away license holder and LED license light. It looks really low but it is 1/2" above frame. P/U all loaded now to head to Huegenics for paint.

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links are broken.

[wallace18]

Not sure what happened there. I reinstalled the photos. Looks OK now.

[flynntuna]

Like those hidden license plate frames. Did you go with the manual or powered version?

[wallace18]

Like those hidden license plate frames. Did you go with the manual or powered version?

I went with manual. there is not enough room with the fuel tank back there for electric, IMO.

[wallace18]

Dropped off the truck today for final body work and paint. We ave a few surprises up our sleeve. Hope to be done by March.

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[herb fraser]

Tom looks great , Are you going to run with no fenders ? That was my plan also

[wallace18]

Tom looks great , Are you going to run with no fenders ? That was my plan also

That is correct, no fenders.

[herb fraser]

That is correct, no fenders.
Can you get it titled. In NJ I have to have fenders so I will make something up to get titled and then take them off

[wallace18]

Can you get it titled. In no I have to have fenders so I will make something up to get titled and then take them off

Yes in Florida you do not have to have fenders. FL is very liberal on title and tag on kit cars and hot rods, IMO.

[wallace18]

Chris my body/paint guy has been doing a ton of body work on my truck. He got my radiator shell to line up better with my hood. He had to pie cut the sides to make them fit correctly. He is a perfectionist and I really appreciate his attention to detail. We scrapped the hood scoop we were going to install since the hood and all line up nice now. If you have not received your printed truck manual call FFR and they will ship one to you.

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[rponfick]

Looks like a nice side motor panel modification to get around the impossible stock cutouts. I will put that photo in my build file. Are those slices of fiberglass above the panel in the photo additional mods?
Sorry to hear about the need for radiator shell surgery.
Keep us up to date.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Looks like a nice side motor panel modification to get around the impossible stock cutouts. I will put that photo in my build file. Are those slices of fiberglass above the panel in the photo additional mods?
Sorry to hear about the need for radiator shell surgery.
Keep us up to date.
Ralph
Yes those are what he had to do to make it all line up nice. We put spacers on the top backside bracket to bring the rear of the radiator shell up. Then he put additional fiberglass underneath the top front of the shelling will make it all line up with the top of the hood.

[wallace18]

Early on I cut my side panels in 2 parts. I did not like you had to install them as one piece. Chris modified them and they now bolt into place as well as the side. We can remove them in a few minutes easy.
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[herb fraser]

Tom looking good, can you get the side panels on without removing half of the front suspension ?

[herb fraser]

Tom looking good, can you get the side panels on without removing half of the front suspension ?

Also not sure if I missed a post but are you not going to have the tale gate operate ? That was my plan ?

[wallace18]

Tom looking good, can you get the side panels on without removing half of the front suspension ?

Also not sure if I missed a post but are you not going to have the tale gate operate ? That was my plan ?

Yes we can remove them because they are 2 pieces. They come off really easy. No tailgate operation. I would be scared someone would open it and sit on it and bust out the rear roll pan. As low as the bed is there is no need to open it IMO.

[herb fraser]

Yes we can remove them because they are 2 pieces. They come off really easy.
Did you cut yours , because mine are only 1 piece ?

[wallace18]

Did you cur yours , because mine are only 1 piece ?

Yes, look at my build thread you can see where we cut them.

[herb fraser]

Thanks tom , that what I figured, but look at what I posted about my wiring problem on the roadster fourm:
Any thoughs ?

SOMETIHNG IS F UP,
So here is where I am
checked the relay fan and horn ,they work fine. I can here the horn relay click so I changed it with the fan relay, no luck
none of the light wire are connect, nothing touching, when I pulled on the light switch the fuse instantly popped.
the horn relay works but when I plugged in the horn nothing happened except that the relay clicked
starting to drive me nuts !!!
lost for words !

at this point I am not worried about the fan circuit , I can replace that with a new complete fan relay circuit for $20 , I know that is not the really the right answer but its an easy answer.
I am just not sure now if the light circuit that keeps popping the fuse has anything at all to do with the horn not working and the fan not working ?
again the relays are working fine
Tomorrow I will contact Ron francis wiring and se what they say
At this point I am hope full there is an easy answer!!


all the gauges are working fine and so is the heating fan

[wallace18]

Herb there is a red wire that goes to the starter solenoid that feeds the fan, horn, brake and radio memory fuses. Check those fuses for battery power. If none is there you do not have that wire on the right spot or there is a break in the wire. That is where I would start.

[wallace18]

Anyone who knows me can tell you I do not sand or do body work. Well my brothers surgery is postponed another 2 weeks at least. So I offered to help Chris my body/paint guy with my 35. Boy this is very tedious work. Today I sanded the dash, tailgate, front of bed and the one bed side. The bedside has lots of voids from air pockets we will have to fill with DuraGlass. Be careful to check all body panels for air pockets. They are right below the Gelcoat. We used a body hammer to find them before sanding. Chris did a great job with my side panels. He made aluminum brackets and did a ton of work to make the 2 pieces fit and be able to come on & off easily. I know why a top notch paint job is so expensive. There is a ton of work into it before you spray the first coat of primer. Chris has been working on the door openings and needs to build up the doors and cab to get a proper gap all around. Here is some pics.

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[rponfick]

I hate air pockets. These are more than the normal pin holes. Now I know what to look forward to.
Ralph

[KenWilkinson]

Tom,

What are you using to finish the fiberglass? What will you fill in the air pockets with? What will you skim coat the outside with? Reason I ask is, the fiberglass is not polyester but vinylester I THINK!

[wallace18]

Tom,

What are you using to finish the fiberglass? What will you fill in the air pockets with? What will you skim coat the outside with? Reason I ask is, the fiberglass is not polyester but vinylester I THINK!

Ken we are using Duraglass to fill voids and most of the body work. Then my body guy will shoot a sandal primer of some sort. I do not know much about body/paint. I leave all that to Chris. I am just a flunky sanding stuff, LOL.

[wallace18]

Today I finished up scuffing up other bedside, hood sides and roll pan. Chris finished up work on doors. He started adding Duraglass to radiator cowl and bed side. We traced holes for headlights so they float thru the cowl. They will bolt directly to the brackets so no stress on fiberglass at all. We used some all thread to position everything for the holes. I hope to scuff up doors tomorrow. Hopefully shoot some sandable primer by end of the week.

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[rponfick]

I like your idea for headlight support. I will run fenders, so not sure I can mount where you did, but will see when I can mock up fenders. I plan to use Herb’s radiator support rods.
Happy sanding.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Scuffed up doors and door jams. Started on cab some. Chris working on radiator shell and roll pan. Adding bevels to tail light mounts.

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[wallace18]

Scuffed up the rest of the cab, hood and radiator shell. Chris ground out the seams and added Duraglass. I have maybe 1 or 2 days next week as a Flunky sanding guy. Then the rest is up to Chris. I have learned one thing. I do not like sanding one bit, LOL. I have never been so dirty in the last 7 years as I got the last 4 days. :p

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[wallace18]

Chris finished up the radiator shell. Very nice fit to grill, IMO.

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[Robodent]

Looks good
Moving right along and you guys should have it painted soon
Then it’s all down hill front there

[rponfick]

How many and what size rubber spacers did he use. Mine fits too low to the grill without spacers, but then will not come together at the bottom with rubber spacer bumpers.
I was hoping there would not be this much body work with the pickup.
Thanks, Ralph

[wallace18]

Ralph look at post #205 should answer your question. Bodywork is up to the individual. Some want everything just so others can deal with different gaps. It is not the same for everyone. We are striving for a look of a steel body when done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26958-Wallace18-s-35-Hot-Rod-Pickup/page6

[rponfick]

I had seen that post, and I guess you are saying that is what was used by your body work person. I haven’t trimmed yet, but it looks like I will have work to do.
Thanks Ralph

[wallace18]

Today I moved my front brake hoses closer to the tie rods to clear side panels. Also sanded down the Duraglass from the mold gaps. I am done sanding. Chris will take it from here. I have some mechanical work to do with him on Thursday then it is all up to hime till paint is done. We are trying for the first week of March to be done.

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[wallace18]

Chris is working on the hood getting it perfect. Loaded it up with filler for sanding.

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[rponfick]

Filler, I'll second that.
Tom, since you have expressed your love sanding, I think this is a job for you. Don't deny your essence.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Thanks Ralph, LOL. I accidently deleted the photo after Chris sanded the hood. It had a big valley down the center. He likes to skim the entire vehicle then sand it. 95% of the filler ends up on the floor. But the end result is a laser straight body.

[wallace18]

Chris skimmed the sides, hood and radiator shell then sanded. Here they are in sandable primer. We are going to map out my side openings tomorrow and take apart the bed to have the same prep work done. He will block sand everything then before a primer/sealer.

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[bnelson]

Looks great :) When sanding the skim coat. What grit does he finish down to before primer?

[wallace18]

Looks great :) When sanding the skim coat. What grit does he finish down to before primer?

I am not sure. I will find out later today.

[KenWilkinson]

is Duraglass still used to skim coat? or Bondo?

[wallace18]

Looks great :) When sanding the skim coat. What grit does he finish down to before primer?

180 Grit

[wallace18]

is Duraglass still used to skim coat? or Bondo?


Not Duraglass, that stuff is like concrete when dry. It is some sort of bond like stuff. I do not do bodywork so those questions are hard for me to answer correctly. Chris knows all that stuff.

[wallace18]

Stopped by Huegenics today. Chris has the whole front in sanding primer. We laid out a few ideas for the hood sides cut outs. Ended up liking the last one. Once cut out they get mesh on the inside and a nice thin aluminum strip on the outside. The passenger door is done sanding after skimming the drivers door is primed with sanding primer. Hope to have whole truck in sanding primer by next week. then block it out and sealer primer.

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[bnelson]

Thanks for the info. Cant wait to see the finished product! Your consistent documentation has been a lot of fun to follow :) Now if I could only get mine ordered! Couple more months :( Its killin me!

[Marv]

Looking great

[herb fraser]

Stopped by Huegenics today. Chris has the whole front in sanding primer. We laid out a few ideas for the hood sides cut outs. Ended up liking the last one. Once cut out they get mesh on the inside and a nice thin aluminum strip on the outside. The passenger door is done sanding after skimming the drivers door is primed with sanding primer. Hope to have whole truck in sanding primer by next week. then block it out and sealer primer.

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looking great , I like the last pic also

[herb fraser]

Thanks for the info. Cant wait to see the finished product! Your consistent documentation has been a lot of fun to follow :) Now if I could only get mine ordered! Couple more months :( Its killin me!

Yep Toms posts are like a living build manual but better ! :)

[wallace18]

Chris did the side panel cut outs. I really like them. Truck is coming along nicely. Very cold down here for Fl. In the 30's last few mornings. Brrrr!

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[KenWilkinson]

Tom,

What are you doing with the Grill? Chrome, Powder Coat, Paint? Some other neato solution?

[wallace18]

Tom,

What are you doing with the Grill? Chrome, Powder Coat, Paint? Some other neato solution?

I am just going to polish it the best I can myself. I like the brushed look myself.

[wallace18]

Chris was a busy guy yesterday. He got everything but the cab in sandable primer. Also test fitted the mesh in the hood sides. I am getting excited for sure.

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[herb fraser]

Getting exciting now ! looking great !

[wallace18]

Chris has been putting in long hours on the cab. Here is 2 pics of cowl and roof. Black areas are high spots. These are after skimming with filler then sanded with 180. Once he is done it will get sand able primer like the rest of the 35 parts. I will going out of town for about 10 days so not sure if I will be able to post or not. Chris emails me these photos so maybe so. We are trying to finish 35 before the customer MK4 kit arrives in March.

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[KenWilkinson]

Tom,

Please ask Chris what he is using for the skim material

~Ken

[wallace18]

Tom,

Please ask Chris what he is using for the skim material

~Ken

3M platinum body filler

[wallace18]

Chris is done with skimming and sanding. Cab will be in primer in next few days. Then block it out and primer sealer time.

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[bnelson]

looks real good! cant wait to see finished product....Color?

[wallace18]

looks real good! cant wait to see finished product....Color?

A custom one off candy/pearl orange.

[wallace18]

cab is primed for blocking now. Block sanding of hood and sides just starting.


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[wallace18]

Both doors done now and one bed side. Getting closer every day.

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[LonJ]

Does anyone have a description and pictures of the difference between standard grill and deluxe grill. My catalog hasn't been any help.

[KenWilkinson]

FYI, a 'real' 1935 Pickup is for sale on Bring a Trailer. Note the grill. Just FYI....

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1935-ford-pick-up/

[wallace18]

Does anyone have a description and pictures of the difference between standard grill and deluxe grill. My catalog hasn't been any help.

Deluxe is a 32 style, standard is a 35 style

[wallace18]

Chris has some parts in final prime. Cab should be in final prime by Saturday. Then it is time to let it all sit and gas off for a week. Then color!

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[dan04mcs]

Looking good!

[bnelson]

cant wait for the candy :)

[Mitch Wright]

Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[wallace18]

Chris finished up final sealing primer on the bed sides, roll pan and cab. Now we just wait a week for color. I really like how he finished up the back of the bed sides.

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[rponfick]

I agree with the bed end treatment. Looks great. I plan something similar. They would look unfinished without something.
Ralph.

[herb fraser]

I agree with the bed end treatment. Looks great. I plan something similar. They would look unfinished without something.
Ralph.

that's what I have been thinking about ,you are correct they would look unfinished, Tom its looking great !

[wibby]

Tom,

Is your door panel arm rest from FFR or is that a different piece? I like the one you have a lot better than the one that came with my 33HR kit.

Thanks,
Wibby

[wallace18]

Tom,

Is your door panel arm rest from FFR or is that a different piece? I like the one you have a lot better than the one that came with my 33HR kit.

Thanks,
Wibby

Comes with 35 kit.

[sturigus83]

Tom the Hot Rod Truck looks great just like everything else you build. This is the third build I have followed you on and I have enjoyed very much. I am like yourself there is not much I don't get into. I like to see how you come up with ideas to fix things it always works out in the end. I cant wait to see your truck in final paint I know you want that as well. I just hope when I start mine it will come out as good as yours. Just as soon as the doctor tells me im ok I will order mine I want to build the 33 and then I hope the 35. Have a good day Tom I enjoy your post

[Jwheels]

I love those cut outs on the side panels, I want to do a similar thing on my project. I was thinking one big cut out and then some kind of mesh behind it. What are you using behind the cut outs? is that just expanded steel? What kind of finish for them? chrome?

[wallace18]

I love those cut outs on the side panels, I want to do a similar thing on my project. I was thinking one big cut out and then some kind of mesh behind it. What are you using behind the cut outs? is that just expanded steel? What kind of finish for them? chrome?

It is aluminum mesh from Custom car grills

https://www.customcargrills.com

[wallace18]

Chris is doing final sanding on primer sealer now. Cab, doors, hood, radiator shell and hood sides to get color on Sunday or Monday. Bed next week.

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[bnelson]

Body/paint work looks fantastic so far. Its an art to get that level of perfection and is not something anyone can do. I agree on the ends of the rear sides. Kinda bugged me seeing the open holes at the end of the panels! Ive done more than a few years in body & paint shops so can appreciate all the blood sweat & tears that goes into it. Cant wait to see some color. I was originally looking at the 33 and was thinking about the same thing. Some shade of burnt orange with pearl. Think I'm gonna go with some old school solids and do a bunch of body mods but that candy orange truck should look bad to the bone when done! Keep the dialog going :) Seems like everyone else kinda fell off the radar :(

[wallace18]

Cleaned up all the dust. Cab is heading into paint booth. Chris kept the interior clean.

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[DamnYankee]

Awesome Tom !

[wallace18]

Chris getting whole front end ready for paint. Underside of hood already painted satin black.

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[wallace18]

Chris sprayed sealer on the cab and front stuff last night. He will spray color today.

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[wallace18]

In case someone wants to know how Chris does show winning paint for me here is a glimpse of all that goes into one. First 4 coats of red crystal, 2 coats of crystalline flake mixed with clear base coat, 4 coats of cinnamon candy, then 4 coats of clear. Whew!! Then 40 hours of sanding and buffing. First photo is red crystal base coat, second is cinnamon candy. I spoke wrong before the end color is a cinnamon red. The PPG called for a brick red base coat but Chris used the red crystal for a much brighter color in the sun. These photos do not do the end result any justice. When it is the sun the spray out test paper was awesome. I can't wait till it is all done.

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[bnelson]

Lookin awesome! Cant wait to see it buffed with the sun shining on it:)

[wallace18]

Here is a photo of the dash and cab after clear. It does have some orange look to it even though the color is cinnamon.
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[wallace18]

I could not stand it I had to go over to Huegenics to see the paint in person. It is amazing how it looks dark red out of sunlight and orange in sunlight. Not even sanded and buffed yet. I took the small front side piece home to show my wife Marsha.

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[KenWilkinson]

awesome paint!

[mburger]

What a great color. Assume Marsha liked it?

[FF33rod]

Looks gorgeous, a fairly unique colour quite suited for the truck IMO.

[wallace18]

What a great color. Assume Marsha liked it?

That is a big yes!

[bnelson]

Beautiful!

[sturigus83]

Tom that paint turned out great and looks so sharp and not even buffed yet. I bet it will really look good when the truck is back together and it is parked in the sun. You will want to look at it all day long.

[Marv]

Beautiful job! Looks like glass

[wallace18]

Here is a pic of the cab outside in the sun. Bed getting painted this weekend. Hope to have cab and front done and out to window shop by next Thursday.

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[wallace18]

Cab and front parts all sanded and buffed out. Looks fantastic, IMO. Bed is primed and sealed. Color goes on tomorrow. We will start to reassemble cab and front starting Monday.

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[WIS89]

Tom-

What a terrific color you picked, and Chris put down! It is going to look amazing on that truck! You have another awesome build nearing completion Tom!

I always enjoy reading your build threads, and watching how quickly you get these builds done. Fast, with great quality and attention to detail! This one is another winner!

I can't wait to see her all wrapped up.

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Today I installed dash and Chris is working on wet sanding and buffing the doors, hood and cab. Here is a pic of dash installed and door all buffed out.

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[wallace18]

We were able to install doors, side windows, side mirrors and door panels. Bed is all painted waiting on wet sand and buff. Taking tomorrow off to help Chris with his new shop. Back at the truck on Friday.

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[wallace18]

Today Chris and I mounted the radiator shell, headlights and hood. I installed the mesh in the side panels and painted the inside of them with truck bed liner. I then took the truck home to do some detail work and will have Mauldin's Auto Glass install the front and rear windows on Monday. The bed should be wet sanded and buffed out by Tuesday and we will finish up the truck on Wednesday and Thursday at my shop. Big car show on Saturday. Lots to do in a short time. Take note of how we mounted headlights. They float in the shell and bolt right to the brackets.

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[wallace18]

Chris working on bed wet sanding and buffing. Look at color shift from light angle changing.

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[wallace18]

Took the truck in this Morning to Mauldin's Auto Glass . Jerry and his employees did a great as usual job with the front and rear windows. In the photo I am in the orange shirt and Jerry in the white. Marsha my wife took some photos while we loaded it in my FFR trailer. Cool billboard on the way home. Door seals worked out nice, IMO. We will be working hard next few days to finish it up for Saturday's car show. Then title, tag and insure it next.

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[sturigus83]

Tom the truck looks great and I know you are glade it is about done so you can enjoy it. You should do very good at the car show this weekend by the way where is the car show. Hope you enjoy your truck very much and great job now I look to see what else you will get into.

[sturigus83]

Hi Tom as I told you before I love your truck. I am trying to get ready to build a 33 just waiting on the doctor to let me go. On the 33 what is the difference in the 9 " ford rear instead of using the 8.8 Rear end. I have found a good price on the 9" rear complete with disk breaks ready to put in. Thank you Tom

[wallace18]

Tom the truck looks great and I know you are glade it is about done so you can enjoy it. You should do very good at the car show this weekend by the way where is the car show. Hope you enjoy your truck very much and great job now I look to see what else you will get into.

The show is at the Santa Fe College on 39th Ave. in Gainesville, FL.

[wallace18]

Hi Tom as I told you before I love your truck. I am trying to get ready to build a 33 just waiting on the doctor to let me go. On the 33 what is the difference in the 9 " ford rear instead of using the 8.8 Rear end. I have found a good price on the 9" rear complete with disk breaks ready to put in. Thank you Tom
The 9" ford rear end would have to be modified to fit the frame. The frames are made for the 8.8 or the 2015 IRS. doing a 9" would be a lot of work, IMO. These cars are so light the 8.8 is plenty strong for them. Getting a 9" fox body rear is more money, IMO.

[wallace18]

Today Chris, Scooter, Marsha and I worked on the truck for 7 hours. We are about 85% done. Still more to do tomorrow but looking good so far. Bed is done. Sides are done and interior about 90% done. Here is a few photos. Chris's dog Turbo like the truck also, LOL.

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[sturigus83]

Tom the truck looks very good very nice job on it. I want a 33 so bad but after they came out with the truck now I want one of them but I have to do the 33 first I just hope it comes out half as good as yours did like I said very nice job. About the 9" rear I could get one at a good price complete with dick breaks I just didn't know who much work would have to be done to make it fit and with your knowledge of the 33 I knew you would know so thanks very much. I would love to make the car show but I live in Southeast Ga and the drive would be a little much for me right now but I would love to meet you one day and check out that beautiful truck of yours. Have a good day Tom and thanks again.

[KenWilkinson]

"About the 9" rear I could get one at a good price complete with dick breaks"

Oh my...

[Marv]

Beautiful job Tom, well done!

[Straversi]

Beauty. The color of the wood stain is great with the paint. Really nice job.
-Steve

[DamnYankee]

Awesome Tom !!!

[KenWilkinson]

really digging the wood bed. Nice work on the color matching.

[wallace18]

Well Chris and I finished up the truck yesterday. I am super happy with how it came out. I want to thank FFR, Chris, Marsha my lovely wife, and all my hot rod buddies for their help as well as the forum members. It has been a bit different than the other kits but I think this one may be a keeper for me.
Now I have title, tag and insure it. Then comes the fun of driving it all around here. I will be starting a MK4 build very soon for a customer so I won't be bored, LOL.

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[CVOBill]

Looks great Tom!

[wallace18]

All loaded up for the big Gainesville Street Rod show on Saturday. Thanks to all for their kind words.

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[WIS89]

Tom-

She turned out GREAT! I love everything about it, and I know you must be pleased.

Good luck at the show this weekend. I am sure it will be well received.

Really nice job, and I appreciate you having us along for the build. I really enjoy watching your builds; always quality stuff!

Regards,

Steve

[herb fraser]

Tom , your truck looks really great ! congrads !

[wallace18]

Thanks guys for all the kind words. :cool: Had a nice day at the Gainesville car show. Met lots of folks who loved the truck. Here is some pics of some other neat cars I saw. Several FFR cars I was involved in as well.

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[Rleon]

I got a chance to see the 35 in person at the event at Santa Fe College in Gainesville yesterday. Believe me - the photos on this forum don't come close to seeing it in person. The attention to detail is unreal and the
paint.... well, I don't know how it could be better. Not a flaw, ripple or blemish to be seen. Engine and suspension look fantastic. And, the sun brings out the tiny gold metal flakes in the paint that are virtually invisible. WoW!
It saw this car when it was a roller - to see it finished is wonderful.
Tom (Mr. Factory Five South) has a right to be super proud. Not only is his work top notch, he is such a great ambassador for Factory Five. He had stacks of brochures and literature and answered millions of questions.
Outstanding!

[Marv]

Tom can you show me what you did with the dash where it meets the W/S I asked FFR for the weatherstrip and they sent me 2 pieces of glass W/S for 33 HR.

[wallace18]

It is the regular bulb seal that goes over aluminum. Here is a link to FFR catalog, you can also buy it from McMaster-Carr.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/10761-weatherstrip-by-the-foot/

[rponfick]

Marv, I have been looking at the same W/S transition. I also got the two piece strips that would leave a gap.
I found the McMaster Carr bulb seal no. 1120A212, 3/8" bulb, 1/8" edge, fits fairly well. But the 1/8" grip edge seems a little too tight and bulges up somewhat. I may try the 3/16" edge stuff they have in the 3/8" bulb, no. 1120A312. The 3/8" bulb size is perfect for me.
Just thought I'd share my research. I think the 3/4" bulb FFR product is too large for my W/S gap, and it is over a $ more expensive per foot.
Ralph

[Marv]

Ordered, thanks guys.

[ThickCobra]

I have to ask, has anyone been able to modify the frame to gain more space for the cabin. For example, moving the seat back a few inches. I have sat in one in progress and found it a little tight for my comfort.

[wallace18]

I have to ask, has anyone been able to modify the frame to gain more space for the cabin. For example, moving the seat back a few inches. I have sat in one in progress and found it a little tight for my comfort.

Check out Herb's thread.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28925-Herb-s-35-CHEVY-truck-build

[sturigus83]

Tom you did a wonderful job on your truck and the paint came out great and the color you picked just pops in the sun. I wished I could have made it to the car show and saw your truck in person I bet pictures don't do it justice. Not only that I would love to meet you and pick your brain. I am ready to get started on my 33 but the doctor said not yet . I went out in my shop when the weather was nice last week and after about an hour I was tired and wore out but it felt good to just be out there even if I didn't do anything. What is your next build if you have one because I enjoy reading your builds you always learn something. Have a good day.

[wallace18]

Tom you did a wonderful job on your truck and the paint came out great and the color you picked just pops in the sun. I wished I could have made it to the car show and saw your truck in person I bet pictures don't do it justice. Not only that I would love to meet you and pick your brain. I am ready to get started on my 33 but the doctor said not yet . I went out in my shop when the weather was nice last week and after about an hour I was tired and wore out but it felt good to just be out there even if I didn't do anything. What is your next build if you have one because I enjoy reading your builds you always learn something. Have a good day.

Thanks for the kind words. I am building a 427 MK4 for a customer right now here is the link.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31169-PB-and-son-MK4-build-thread-by-wallace18

[wallace18]

Finally after a month I got an appointment to title and tag my truck on 4/2/19, Yea!:cool: I will be in Tampa at the NSRA show on Friday or Saturday next week with my 35. It depends on the weather. Whatever day is looking like less chance of rain I will go. If it is a washout I won't be going.

[KenWilkinson]

Tom,

I'll watch the weather and go also. Maybe we can have lunch together at Portillos? Do you like Chicago Italian Beef sandwiches?

[wallace18]

Tom,

I'll watch the weather and go also. Maybe we can have lunch together at Portillos? Do you like Chicago Italian Beef sandwiches?

PM sent.

[wallace18]

Got the truck titled and tagged yesterday. Got home and went for a ride 2 miles up to the gas station. Truck ran well for about 1 mile and started to run real rich. Barely made it home. O2 sensor went bad. Replaced it and spark plugs today and took it for a ride, then went to dinner with Marsha this evening. Runs great now. Very fast for an automatic! Going to put about 100 miles or so on it tomorrow. If all goes well I will drive it to Tampa on Saturday to the NSRA show.

[HotRod~Al]

Your Truck had close up walk around by YouTuber 37spiker . The title of the video is NSRA TAMPA Saturday 4-6-2019.
The time mark is 16:09 .
Your truck looked awesome!

[KenWilkinson]

Funny, I thought he would look taller in person.

you have to see in person the paint. Overall, very classy.

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[wallace18]

Thanks Guy's! It was a really nice day at the show. Being the only FFR 35 Hot Rod P/U made it extra special. Ken it was great to see you and your wife in person again. Your 35 is coming along nice as well. I was able to give away about 50 FFR brochures and DVD's. Many kind words about the truck from lots of folks. It was a great day for sure.
BTW, I look thinner kneeling down, LOL. :cool: Here is the youtube video. Check out 16:05 for my 35.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cULzdUWxnQ

[wallace18]

Had a great time yesterday at the Gainesville downtown car show. I gave away all my FFR brochures I had left. Gave away about 30 DVD's as well. Lots of interest in the 35. Went to show with my friends Art in the 55 resto-mod, Greg in the 64 Dart GT and me in my 35. Art won best of show! His car is awesome. Met lots of folks and kids that just fell in love with the 35. When I came home 2 boxes of FFR brochures were waiting on my at my gate. Thanks Sally! Went to a cruise-in later that night but got rained out. The 35 worked out great in the rain. No problems at all.

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I have 2 more local shows then I am off to the NSRA show in Knoxville, TN on the 3rd and 4th of May.

[wallace18]

I was blessed to win best paint at the Alachua car show today. Gave away another 50 Factory 5 brochures and DVD's. Very nice show and weather was perfect.

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[Robodent]

Congrats well earned

[wallace18]

Going to be in Knoxville, TN on the 5th and 6th of May this weekend with my 35. Look me up if you are at the NSRA show.:cool:

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[wallace18]

Due to weather forecast we decided to cancel going to the NSRA show in Knoxville this weekend. :(

[FF33rod]

That sucks, torrential rain forecast?

[herb fraser]

I was blessed to win best paint at the Alachua car show today. Gave away another 50 Factory 5 brochures and DVD's. Very nice show and weather was perfect.

106061
Tom, That's that excellent !

[wallace18]

Well it has been 90 days since I got truck painted. I got the Ok from my painter to install my custom car/truck cover from CCC. They gave me a form to fill out all my dimensions and made one custom. Fits great IMO.

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[Marv]

Nice cover.

[wallace18]

I had a few requests for how I installed my door solenoids. Basically I installed the solenoid on the bottom of the door frame close to the hinges. Used the FFR cable to go to the latch with the FFR supplied hardware. I drilled out the hole on the solenoid plunger so I could run a 10-32 tap in it. Then screwed the FFR hardware clip to it. There is plenty of adjustment in the cable to fine tune the pull. They work perfect for me every time with a push of a button. Hope this helps those who inquired.

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[wallace18]

Going to be at the NSRA National's 8/1/19 thru 8/4/19 in Louisville, KY this coming weekend with my 35. I welcome anyone to come and talk about it and the build process that comes by. FFR should be there also.

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[herb fraser]

Hi Tom, really looks like you are lovin your truck. As you should, it looks GREAT !!!!

[DamnYankee]

Going to be at the NSRA National's 8/1/19 thru 8/4/19 in Louisville, KY this coming weekend with my 35. I welcome anyone to come and talk about it and the build process that comes by. FFR should be there also.

111521

I'll be there too. Hopefully can find you among the 13,000 cars :-)

[wallace18]

I'll be there too. Hopefully can find you among the 13,000 cars :-)

Look forward to seeing you!

[wallace18]

I had a great time at the NSRA Nats. I was at the FFR booth for 2 days and had a ball hanging out with Tony, Dan and Chris. I have been busy finishing up an MK4 for a customer. I hope to do a few upgrades to my 35 soon. Wilwood master, front and rear wilwood brake kits. I really want more stopping power than I currently have.

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[wallace18]

I succumbed to peer pressure and changed out my rear tires. I originally had 305/25 ZR20 on the rear. I now have 315/35R20. I must admit they do look better and give me more rake and lower my RPM at highway speed. I also installed a 1" Wilwood master cylinder and I am much happier with my pedal now. I will keep the kit brakes now that my stopping is more to my liking.

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[sperger72]

Wallace, Where did you purchase the tail lights?

Zach

[wallace18]

Wallace, Where did you purchase the tail lights?

Zach

Rodworx

https://www.rodworx.com

[sperger72]

Thanks. I like those better than the others in the kit.

[wallace18]

Well I did a stupid thing a few Fridays ago. I had added my Wilwood 1" master Cylinder and tested it in my subdivision. All was OK. I went to our local Friday hot rod Guy's lunch and on the way home I noticed the brakes seemed to be dragging. Unfortunately I did not have any tools or my cell phone with me. So like an idiot I drove it home the 2 miles. By the time I got to my home gate the front calipers were on fire. The long and short of this is I ended up being able to save the rear brakes but had to replace the fronts. I bought the Wilwood kit from FFR. They had best price believe it or not. I fixed the master cylinder clearance issue when the engine was hot and now is all well. Hard way to learn a lesson about cell and tools needed on any trip but a lesson learned for sure.

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[tt400]

Keep the pictures coming. Great build.

[Sbda4]

Today Chris and I mounted the radiator shell, headlights and hood. I installed the mesh in the side panels and painted the inside of them with truck bed liner. I then took the truck home to do some detail work and will have Mauldin's Auto Glass install the front and rear windows on Monday. The bed should be wet sanded and buffed out by Tuesday and we will finish up the truck on Wednesday and Thursday at my shop. Big car show on Saturday. Lots to do in a short time. Take note of how we mounted headlights. They float in the shell and bolt right to the brackets.

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Tom, your build is awesome and I really appreciate the info you provide and some of the unique features you added to your truck. My kit should arrive soon and I can’t wait to get started. I especially like the mesh in your side panels. How did you fasten the mesh on the inside of the panels and are they permanent or removable? Thanks again for the great build thread.

[chuck35truck]

I thought I put too many rivets in my firewall, but not so after looking at yours.

[wallace18]

Tom, your build is awesome and I really appreciate the info you provide and some of the unique features you added to your truck. My kit should arrive soon and I can’t wait to get started. I especially like the mesh in your side panels. How did you fasten the mesh on the inside of the panels and are they permanent or removable? Thanks again for the great build thread.

3M panel adhesive.

[wallace18]

I thought I put too many rivets in my firewall, but not so after looking at yours.


FYI, Those are 10-32 button head screws not rivets.

[bnelson]

Tom can you go over your window weatherstrip install with me? When I look at your pictures it looks like you have one continuous piece on the inside and outside. The manual is real confusing about whee to put the piece with felt and the pictures are to close up to actually see where they are placing it. I cant get it clear in my head where to start the felt and stop. And like I said looks like you used one continuous piece? Any insight would be appreciated.

Bruce

[wallace18]

Tom can you go over your window weatherstrip install with me? When I look at your pictures it looks like you have one continuous piece on the inside and outside. The manual is real confusing about whee to put the piece with felt and the pictures are to close up to actually see where they are placing it. I cant get it clear in my head where to start the felt and stop. And like I said looks like you used one continuous piece? Any insight would be appreciated.

Bruce

I was the 1st customer kit and I do have one piece on the outside. The inside is 2 pieces. I try to keep the gaps up top. FFR has made several changes to the 35 kit since the very first few. Not sure if yours is exactly like mine or not. Here is some photos I just took for you. Hope this helps.

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[bnelson]

Looks like you are using same molding inside and outside with no felt strip? If I understand the manual correctly I think they are calling for the felt strip to go on bottom inside running from corner transition to corner transition where it makes that twist shown in your picture #5. That's how I set it up when trimming to fit the window but it just doesn't look clean like yours does. I'll have to play with it.

Thanks for taking the time!
Bruce

[wallace18]

Looks like you are using same molding inside and outside with no felt strip? If I understand the manual correctly I think they are calling for the felt strip to go on bottom inside running from corner transition to corner transition where it makes that twist shown in your picture #5. That's how I set it up when trimming to fit the window but it just doesn't look clean like yours does. I'll have to play with it.

Thanks for taking the time!
Bruce

Mine both have felt on the inside facing the window.

[bnelson]

Thanks Tom. You must have different strip than I have. If I put the felt all the way around the felt would be facing to front and back on the vertical part of the window frame instead of facing the glass. I'll dig around for something online that will work better.

[FFinisher]

The “cat head” goes all the way around the outside and on the horizontal strip on the bottom on the inside.

The stuff with the felt on it goes on the vertical and on the top on the inside. This means you have two seams in the corners of different material.

Not great- but that’s how you do it-

[bnelson]

The “cat head” goes all the way around the outside and on the horizontal strip on the bottom on the inside.

The stuff with the felt on it goes on the vertical and on the top on the inside. This means you have two seams in the corners of different material.

Not great- but that’s how you do it-


Thanks FFinisher. Sounds like I had it back asswards :( I had the felt on the bottom horizontal and I had the other on vertical and top.

[FLFrank35]

I am working on my fuel lines and trying to decide which lines to use. I came across your 6-25-18 post...It looks like you used the supplied 5/16 (send) and 1/4 (return) lines with 6 AN braided line in the engine compartment...Is that right?

Johnny from BluePrint Engines and Holley recommend using 6 AN for everything, but am having a hell of a time getting the fittings to match.
I wondering...How do the 5/16, 1/4 and 6 AN work together? Smooth operation? Any issues?

Frank

[wallace18]

I am working on my fuel lines and trying to decide which lines to use. I came across your 6-25-18 post...It looks like you used the supplied 5/16 (send) and 1/4 (return) lines with 6 AN braided line in the engine compartment...Is that right?

Johnny from BluePrint Engines and Holley recommend using 6 AN for everything, but am having a hell of a time getting the fittings to match.
I wondering...How do the 5/16, 1/4 and 6 AN work together? Smooth operation? Any issues?

Frank

I have used the FFR supplied lines on several FI SBF and a LS3 with no issues at all in street driving. I buy adapters from Speedway or Summit to adapt to the FI unit.

[FLFrank35]

Ok, great! I conferred with Johnny and am going with 6 AN for send and return. Using mostly FFR supplied lines but adding SS braided for the engine bay and using all anodized AN fittings expect on some of the Earl's rubber Vapor Guard hose, I'll use the band-clamps.

Thanks much!

[sperger72]

What was your favorite kit to build? Which kit has the best fit and finish directly from FFR?

[wallace18]

What was your favorite kit to build? Which kit has the best fit and finish directly from FFR?

I liked them all to build. Fit and finish is up to the bodywork and paint. None of them is perfect as is. The MK4 is by far the easiest, IMO.

[sperger72]

Thanks for the input. The truck has been fun. In the last stages now trying to get everything back together after paint.

Zach

[ThickCobra]

I was the 1st customer kit and I do have one piece on the outside. The inside is 2 pieces. I try to keep the gaps up top. FFR has made several changes to the 35 kit since the very first few. Not sure if yours is exactly like mine or not. Here is some photos I just took for you. Hope this helps.

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I'm sure that FF makes ongoing changes and updates to the 35 kit since the first one shipped. Has anyone, or FF, prepared a list of the changes or at least the more significant updates? I purchased a manual in late 2018 and would like to track these changes.

[wallace18]

My truck has been done for over a year now. While my wife's 33 is out for paint I decided to fix a couple of things I was not happy with on the 35. The instruments are hard for me to read during the day if the lights were not on. I removed the dash some and wired the white wire to the red wire on the Speedhut harness so the gauges are lit up when truck is running. Much better now, IMO. Also the way I had my door straps allowed the doors to open pass 90 degrees and put stress on the fiberglass cab opening. I rerouted the straps to the back and installed a brace to stop the flex when the door opened. I am very happy with both results. I wish the weather and Covid-19 stuff would allow cruising and such. I do not get to drive it as I did before all this crap!

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[chuck35truck]

Tom, I found that trimming my doors that they were not equally off all the way around the door.
I got both doors mounted. Getting the inside hinges bolted to the bracket was a chore for my fat fingers. I was not able to figure out a way to get both bolts into the bottom hinge. I am still working on a solution.

[wallace18]

Tom, I found that trimming my doors that they were not equally off all the way around the door.
I got both doors mounted. Getting the inside hinges bolted to the bracket was a chore for my fat fingers. I was not able to figure out a way to get both bolts into the bottom hinge. I am still working on a solution.

That is normal. You must trim the door so it fits best. The hinges are difficult. As I stated several times the doors are the hardest part of the 35 build, IMO. Though once done they work really well at least on my truck. Remember if it was easy anyone could do it, LOL. :p

[chuck35truck]

Did Chris grind out the seams to make sure no air gaps? I assumed I would use sand them down and fill the voids I exposed which are a lot. Also some high/low at the joints.

[wallace18]

Did Chris grind out the seams to make sure no air gaps? I assumed I would use sand them down and fill the voids I exposed which are a lot. Also some high/low at the joints.

Yes to all above. Duraglass for large voids and 3M platinum filler to do final skim coat for block sanding. All this is in this build thread.

[chuck35truck]

Did he grind out all the seams or just where he thought might be a problem?

[wallace18]

Did he grind out all the seams or just where he thought might be a problem?

I am not 100% sure. Do what you think is best. It is fairly easy to see where air pockets are.

[chuck35truck]

Do you have a picture on how the bulb seal fit with the dash against the body and around the roll bar?

[chuck35truck]

133482So in reading some of the follow-up to this post, is the 3rd photo showing where the bed floor will actually end up. The front of the floor almost touches the back of the cab.

[wallace18]

133482So in reading some of the follow-up to this post, is the 3rd photo showing where the bed floor will actually end up. The front of the floor almost touches the back of the cab.

See post #150 and further for bed details. To my knowledge no two 35 builders have done the bed the same way. Do what works best for you.

[chuck35truck]

Thank you, I appreciate the help very much.

[chuck35truck]

Tom, I am starting on the door glass today. My opening on the bottom of the doors varies from 0.64” to 0.72”. The top and sides are around 0.42” Based on what you did, I believe I need to trim the top and sides to match the 0.64”. The 0.72” is in the middle of the door and there is some flexing so maybe by the time I get the panels on, it should stop or reduce the flex. I hope I did this post correctly with your quote.

Today was drivers door power window day. As with all things from FFR fiberglass wise the gap for the window and seals is small so you can make it fit how you want. Here is what I did. Not sure if it will work this way for everyone but gives a starting point. My drivers door had the largest gap down in the back bottom of the door. It measure 0.65". I installed just a small piece of inner and outer seal there to see the gap. It looked almost perfect for the window to go up and down. I made a gauge that was 0.65" wide and scribed all around the door on the outside. You can't trim the inside. Once you look you will see why. I used a Dremel cut off wheel and made the opening as close to 0.65" as I could. I took the door on and off about 4 times to trim. I finally used a socket that was 0.69" in diameter to se if my gap was even all around. Then I installed the cat head outside seal first then the felt inner one. Don't worry the felt will not face the window on the bottom. This is normal. I installed the window all the way up into the door past the seals. Then mounted it to the P/W track. Low and behold it worked perfect fist time. This seals so much better than the 33 window, IMO. Almost OEM like. Should make for a rattle free and leak free door as far as the window goes. I am very happy with it overall. Passenger door up next. Hope this helps someone down the road. :cool:

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[chuck35truck]

Finished up my under dash console that houses my radio, window switches and electric E-Brake switch. Taking my cab to Chris tomorrow to fix crack and prepare for interior flocking.

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Tom, What material did you use to make the under dash panel. What did you coat it with? It looks good.

[wallace18]

Tom, What material did you use to make the under dash panel. What did you coat it with? It looks good.

The panel I made out of aluminum and covered with some vinyl I bought at a fabric store.

[chuck35truck]

Thank you.

[chuck35truck]

Today was drivers door power window day. As with all things from FFR fiberglass wise the gap for the window and seals is small so you can make it fit how you want. Here is what I did. Not sure if it will work this way for everyone but gives a starting point. My drivers door had the largest gap down in the back bottom of the door. It measure 0.65". I installed just a small piece of inner and outer seal there to see the gap. It looked almost perfect for the window to go up and down. I made a gauge that was 0.65" wide and scribed all around the door on the outside. You can't trim the inside. Once you look you will see why. I used a Dremel cut off wheel and made the opening as close to 0.65" as I could. I took the door on and off about 4 times to trim. I finally used a socket that was 0.69" in diameter to se if my gap was even all around. Then I installed the cat head outside seal first then the felt inner one. Don't worry the felt will not face the window on the bottom. This is normal. I installed the window all the way up into the door past the seals. Then mounted it to the P/W track. Low and behold it worked perfect fist time. This seals so much better than the 33 window, IMO. Almost OEM like. Should make for a rattle free and leak free door as far as the window goes. I am very happy with it overall. Passenger door up next. Hope this helps someone down the road. :cool:

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Tom, Does the inner felt strip get installed around the entire window opening, or just as the manual implies, start at the bottom and run up around the top and back down to the bottom. I ask as the felt piece they gave me does not go around the entire window opening.
Thank you

[wallace18]

Tom, Does the inner felt strip get installed around the entire window opening, or just as the manual implies, start at the bottom and run up around the top and back down to the bottom. I ask as the felt piece they gave me does not go around the entire window opening.
Thank you

Yes it does. I had to use 2 pieces on both doors on the inside. They gave me 3 equal length pieces with my kit. Not sure why FFR did not supply a long enough piece to use just one. I ended up using a piece just at the top and then the other piece to cover the rest of the opening.

[chuck35truck]

Thank you Tom, the instructions say to start at the curve on the bottom and then go up around to the top and back down to the bottom. This would leave a gap along the bottom. But the instructions don’t match the photo on the manual. I am almost 1 foot short.

I will contact FFR in the morning for another piece.

[chuck35truck]

The “cat head” goes all the way around the outside and on the horizontal strip on the bottom on the inside.

The stuff with the felt on it goes on the vertical and on the top on the inside. This means you have two seams in the corners of different material.

Not great- but that’s how you do it-

So are you saying the felt does not go all the way around and leave the gap at the bottom?

[chuck35truck]

Yes it does. I had to use 2 pieces on both doors on the inside. They gave me 3 equal length pieces with my kit. Not sure why FFR did not supply a long enough piece to use just one. I ended up using a piece just at the top and then the other piece to cover the rest of the opening.


Tom,

I got the gaps set at least 0.65”; I think I need to open up some more. I could not get the window in with PW mechanism in place. So I slid the window in and now install PW mechanism to check operation before removing everything and trimming the opening some more. Is that the process on how you did it? If not what is the process you used for getting the window in?

Putting that cat head on is a struggle. Finally used some Dawn to help lubricate.

[wallace18]

Tom,

I got the gaps set at least 0.65”; I think I need to open up some more. I could not get the window in with PW mechanism in place. So I slid the window in and now install PW mechanism to check operation before removing everything and trimming the opening some more. Is that the process on how you did it? If not what is the process you used for getting the window in?

Putting that cat head on is a struggle. Finally used some Dawn to help lubricate.\
I just took out one of the seals and slid the window in and out as needed. Then reinstalled the seal. Or if you have not installed the window stops yet you can just lower it to give room for seal install. Whatever works for you. Doors are the hardest part of the 35 build IMO. Worth the effort though once it is done right. :cool:

[chuck35truck]

Installed my window stuff in the door. Moved my 12V cut -off switch to the rear of the cab. I can reach it with seat in place. Door panels are very nice, IMO.

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Tom, I notice you had a portion of the inner door cutout on photo 3354. Can you please tell me the reason?

[wallace18]

Tom, I notice you had a portion of the inner door cutout on photo 3354. Can you please tell me the reason?

That is for the inner door knob I used instead of the extra cable and door handle.

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[chuck35truck]

I raised the question with Dan Golub. He said the reason the felt piece is only 63” long is that he is meant to go from bottom around top and back down. For the gap in the middle we are to use the cathead. That sounds crazy to me. If you read pg 344 closely that is what it says but the picture on that page shows something different.

[wallace18]

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Here is the best photos I have of what I ended up doing. Hope it helps. :rolleyes:

[wallace18]

Well after 2+ years of trouble free operation I drove my 35 to the local grocery store to do some shopping on 11/1/21. Well when I came out the 35 would not start. No fuel pressure. I checked all I could as far as fuses, etc. Walked 2 miles home and called my wife to come home. We went and got my F-150 and enclosed trailer and brought the 35 home. I did not have time that day to diagnose the problem as Bill and I were leaving the next morning to deliver a MK4 to PA. Well today I had time. Fuel pump access was not good since I used the whole S/S floor for the bed. I cut an access hole and removed pump after verifying good power to it. Low and behold it was the connector rubber hose came off of the pump to the outlet pipe. A 50 cent hose clamp later fixed it. I made the opening large enough that if I ever need to replace fuel sender I can also. This will be something I do from now on for 35 builds. I suggest others do the same. :rolleyes:

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[Robodent]

Very nice Tom , I had to replace my sending unit cause the float kinda rotted and fell off . I. R&I. The stainless sheet but did not install it back in just the Smokey road bed floor for now. Rob

[chuck35truck]

Tom, thanks for the share. I am planning on putting a removable opening for the battery and now I will add one for the fuel sending problems. I haven't had problems with it yet, but I had some stalling problems that finally got solved due to a couple loose grounds.

Rock valley makes one that is large enough for battery. https://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/products.htm

I finally go to painter on 11/17. This is my second painter as first one crapped out.

How is the new garage doing?

[wallace18]

Great! Been working in it since 3/15/21. Hope all goes well with your new painter.

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[chuck35truck]

Great! Been working in it since 3/15/21. Hope all goes well with your new painter.

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Tom, that garage is really nice. A big improvement in your old one. Plenty of space and good height.

[wallace18]

I have had my 35 now for over 3 years and many happy miles. This truck draws attention and smiles every where I go. After taking it last December to the Tampa NSRA show, I wanted to do something to make my legs a little happier on a long trip. I think the new 4" longer cab will be a great mod. IMO. I raised my bench seat 3.5". It has made a significant feel to my legs while driving so far. I am 6'3" tall with a 32" inseam. I am tall from the waist up. I still have over 3" of head room even with my 3.5" modification. Time will tell if it was worth it or not. A bonus is that I now have additional storage under both seats and center console area. :cool:

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[chuck35truck]

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Tom, Here are some pictures of the finished truck. I have since gotten some pin-striping on the bed, but I have lost that picture.

i have the metal to raise the seat up a couple of inches. It sounds like that will help with the leg room for longer drives. Thanks for the tip.

[wallace18]

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Tom, Here are some pictures of the finished truck. I have since gotten some pin-striping on the bed, but I have lost that picture.

i have the metal to raise the seat up a couple of inches. It sounds like that will help with the leg room for longer drives. Thanks for the tip.

Looks great! I really like that blue. Congrats:cool:

[chuck35truck]

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Tom, I found the ones my painter shot. You can see the striping on the bed. I took it to 2 car shows 2 weekends ago and got a lot of attention. One guy even was thinking of building one.

[wallace18]

After 3+ years of the headlights that came with the kit, I felt the need to upgrade. I went with these LED H4 replacements. The difference is incredible! Best 80 bucks I ever spent on lights for a car upgrade. 1st photo shows 1 old H4 and 1 LED.

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[FF33rod]

Huge difference! I didn't realize the truck shipped with Halogen headlights at one point. My '33 kit from late 2018 had LED...

Steve

[wallace18]

Huge difference! I didn't realize the truck shipped with Halogen headlights at one point. My '33 kit from late 2018 had LED...

Steve

I installed the type of headlights that used to come with the 33 kits. I sold the LED units that came with the kit. I was not fond of the FFR units look.

[Guardm16]

Wow! great brake setup. So many questions:
How close is the booster to the Valve cover?
What booster did you use?
Is that a 351W Block or 302?

[wallace18]

Booster setup is from Whitby. https://www.whitbymotorcars.com

not even close to VC.
347 based on 302 block.

[wallace18]

BTW, this truck is for sale
. See classifieds!

[Guardm16]

Awesome, I have wondered if anyone has done a brake booster on the 35 truck. I do like the idea of Power Brakes. I am putting in a high deck 351 (9.5") deck height so the valve covers would be a little closer than the 302 block. Are you having any low vacuum issues with a high lift cam?

[Guardm16]

what abrasive did you use to burnish the firewall? Scotchbright or something stiffer?