Wallace18's 35 Hot Rod Pickup

[wallace18]

Since the build thread is open now I wanted to post how I am getting ready for my kit kinda like Erik. I put down my order as soon as FFR would let me. I have since bought everything I need to put it together once I get the kit here in Florida. I am using engine and AOD from a 1988 Lincoln LSC I bought a while back on Craigs list. The rear end is out of a 2009 Mustang GT with low miles. I hope as soon as the weather warms up to clean and paint the unit as well. Last week I disassembled the 5.0 and checked out everything I could reuse. Threw out all the stuff I won't use. I ended up replacing all the bearings and rings for the bottom end. I had a Trick Flow top end kit that was used in the Challenge Series to finish off the long block. I will end up using FITech F.I. and have the AOD professionally rebuilt with shift kit and 3000 stall converter. It does get cold once in a while here in Fl. It was 32 in my shop at 8 AM. Solid frost in the yard and bird bath froze solid. It has been like getting Christmas presents the last few weeks with all the parts coming Fed EX and UPS. I am planning on this being a nice cruiser type build. I will post here as I do other stuff.

Kit is ordered as follows. I may add wood bed and floor mats if available at time of pick up.
Hot Rod Truck Kit
302 engine install
Powder coated frame
AOD drive shaft
Vinyl bench seat
Chrome tilt column
Gauge cluster
Electric P/S
Hot Rod A/C kit



78663786647866578666786677866978670

7867178672

[wallace18]

I have been working on my drive train a bit. I cleaned and painted the outside of my AOD that I had rebuilt. It has a shift kit, 1 qt larger aluminum pan and a 3000 stall B&M converter. I bolted all up and started on my Lokar shifter stuff. Also installed my starter.

7960979610

[myjones]

Tom
Those are good looking headers but the collector is pretty far back compared to the flywheel. You may want to look at nudging the
engine forward a bit when you have the chassis in hand. The radiator is more straight up on the truck vs the 33 so I'm hoping that
means more room for belt driven accessories etc. My concern is the tight turn to get the exhaust through the floor tubes of the
chassis. Moving the engine forward will be a win win because of the extra footbox room that comes from the bellhousing shift.

I bought some tight radius SS bends from Wolff <sp? tubing to make that transition on the Hemi in my 33, good stuff IMO.
Looking forward to watching the build as you blaze a new trail.
Dale

[wallace18]

I will definitely keep an eye on them. Since they are replacements for the stock 5.0 shorty headers I do think they will work OK. I used similar ones on my first 33 without a problem. Time will tell.

[wallace18]

Spent all morning cleaning and painting my 8.8. Still have to install the lugs.

7972579726

[RoadRacer]

Since the build thread is closed for now

Build threads should be opened soon, surely? Looks like things are happening!

[wallace18]

Well I have done all I can do till I get called to go get my kit. I did clean out the shop, as well as put all the 35 stuff on the 4-post lift.

8052580526

[wallace18]

Got some great news today. My 35 kit will be ready for pick up ( pun intended) on 4/7/18. I just wired the money and found out I will get the first customer one after the BETA builders, Woo Hoo!

[David Hodgkins]

Congratulations!

:)

[Stillwater35]

Mine is 2 weeks after yours - April 28!


Got some great news today. My 35 kit will be ready for pick up ( pun intended) on 4/7/18. I just wired the money and found out I will get the first customer one after the BETA builders, Woo Hoo!

[erlihemi]

Got some great news today. My 35 kit will be ready for pick up ( pun intended) on 4/7/18. I just wired the money and found out I will get the first customer one after the BETA builders, Woo Hoo!

Well its up to you to set the bar high! We know you will.

[rponfick]

I'll have to wait until 5-26.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Just worked out a deal with my painter Chris. I will build him a MK4 and he will in turn do the paint and body work on my 35 P/U. Works great for both of us. Both kits will be ready about 4/7/18. Now I have to come up with a plan to bring both home at the same time in my trailer, LOL. I am hoping I can double stack them inside my trailer with some 4"x6"s and 3/4" plywood.

[WIS89]

Tom-

I think both of you got a great deal! Although, I think he may have ended up a bit better. I know he will be getting an awesome car, built to a very high standard!

I look forward to following along with both builds! I also look forward to seeing what kind of magic you will be pulling off to get both kits home...

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

After getting some measurements from Tony at FFR and RoadRacer I am 100% sure both kits will fit in my 20' FFR enclosed trailer. The 35 is 14' long but the frame is only about 19" wide at the very front. This allows me to put the 35 way into my v-nose on the floor up front. The distance from the frame front to the rear of the cab is 8'. This allows me 13'6" from the rear of the cab to the rear door. The MK4 is 13' long. I will build a platform above the 35 bed for the MK4 and stack them staggered. There will be plenty of room on the sides for boxes as well as my F-150 bed and rear seat area. We will have to attach the MK4 floor to 4"x6" side rails after the 35 is in place and tied down. Should be an adventure for sure, but will save me another trip and money. Thanks again to everyone who gave me measurements to make this happen.

[rponfick]

Noticed the wheels/tires in your pictures. What size are you using? I would like to stay with something in the 15" wheel size to lessen making the stock supplied brakes look tiny. I like the torque thrust designs. I realize you are limited in sizes with the 15's, but the large wheels require big Wilwoods to look right.
Thanks, Ralph

[wallace18]

Noticed the wheels/tires in your pictures. What size are you using? I would like to stay with something in the 15" wheel size to lessen making the stock supplied brakes look tiny. I like the torque thrust designs. I realize you are limited in sizes with the 15's, but the large wheels require big Wilwoods to look right.
Thanks, Ralph

I got them from these folks.
https://www.wheelsforless.com/About_Us.html

J used 15x10x3.75 in the rear and 15x8x4.5 in the front. I hope my backspacing will be OK.

[wallace18]

Got some bad news today. They decided to not support the older 8.8 rear ends. 2005 -2014 Mustang GT rear ends will be the only ones the chassis will support. I have a rebuilt 88- 8.8 with new 5-lug axles, aluminum rear cover, 3.27 rear gears and 3-link with extra support bar for sale now. $600.00 plus shipping.

[myjones]

Got some bad news today. They decided to not support the older 8.8 rear ends. 2005 -2014 Mustang GT rear ends will be the only ones the chassis will support. I have a rebuilt 88- 8.8 with new 5-lug axles, aluminum rear cover, 3.27 rear gears and 3-link with extra support bar for sale now. $600.00 plus shipping.

Looks like you have the first part (8.8) of the next project after the 35 :rolleyes:
Now go back and edit out the first sentence of your first post, it just confuses us slow kids when we see that the "thread is closed".
Dale

[wallace18]

Just Found a 2009 GT rear end with only 46K miles on it in Moultrie Ga. Going to get it Friday. Sold my other 8.8 today as well, Woo Hoo!

[FFinisher]

Just Found a 2009 GT rear end with only 46K miles on it in Moultrie Ga. Going to get it Friday. Sold my other 8.8 today as well, Woo Hoo!

Somebody got a good deal on that rear end

:rolleyes:

[rponfick]

Wallace, you are on a roll. Keep us advised.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Yesterday morning I picked up my 2009 GT rear end. Lots of cleanup and painting ahead, again.

81561

[wallace18]

For those wondering how I am going to bring home 2 kits in one 20" trailer here is what I worked out with measurements from Tony at FFR. The P/U is 14' long but the front of the frame is only 20" wide. This will allow me to put the frame up in my V-Nose and gain another 20" over the 20' trailer interior. The back of the cab is 8' from the front of the frame. This gives my 13'6" to the rear door. The game plan is put the 35 on the floor all the way up front and tie it down. I have made a frame that will sit above the frame area of the 35 for the MK4 to sit on above the rear of the truck frame behind the cab. The truck frame behind the cab is only 20" tall as delivered. My staggered deck is 24" tall. this gives me 46" to the top of my door way. The MK4 is 13' long and 27" tall. I made all the second floor and center supports removable so we can load the 35 and then install the second deck. Should be some kind of adventure for sure. But it will save me another trip or paying shipping. Lots of room for boxes in trailer, F150 P/U bed and rear seat of F150. Sorry for crude drawing but I thought it would help folks visualize.

817878178881789

[FFinisher]

You must be really good with a tape measure.:rolleyes:

[RoadRacer]

That's pretty cool - shipping is so expensive! Until you realize they are driving 2-3000 miles for many of us :)

[jayguy]

Looks like a great plan, can't wait to watch the builds!

[adubbelde]

That's pretty cool - shipping is so expensive! Until you realize they are driving 2-3000 miles for many of us :)
We paid for 2 semis to deliver the materials for our home from Asheville, NC to Custer, SD, almost $11,000. The manufacturer (DELTEC HOMES) has delivered as far away as Manchuria. I wonder what that cost :)

[wallace18]

Loaded up and strapped down 8.8 to deliver to FFinisher when we get up to FFR in April.

81855

[Samiam1017]

always look forward for your builds im sure you wont disappoint!

[wallace18]

Had time today to clean and paint my 2009 Mustang GT rear end for the 35. The calipers leaked and rotors are rusty so I will install new ones for that part. After wire brushing off all the rust I painted with Rust-oleum rust reformer then gloss black. Came out nice, IMO.

829018290282904

[wallace18]

In case anyone wants to know the difference between the 92 Mustang 8.8 and the 2009 I have for my 35 here it is in pictures. The one with tires is a 92 the one with just rotors is a 2009. Big width differance.

82955

[rponfick]

Wow, I thought they said the difference was about 5" in the axle they planned to ship, but that looks a bit more.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Installed new rotors, rebuilt calipers, pads and reinstalled the E-Brake cables.

82999

[wallace18]

Just got an email from Tony Zullo at FFR. I am picking up my 35 kit on April 9th. Woo Hoo!

[CVOBill]

That's awesome Tom!! Looking forward in following your build thread.

[wallace18]

All loaded up and ready to go Friday morning to get the 35 and a MK4. I have stops in NC, PA the first 2 days. Hope to be in Wareham on Sunday evening. Stay at the Towneplace overnight. Then get to FFR early Monday morning to load up. Weather should be OK but very cold up in the NE. I will miss our 80's down here for sure, LOL.

83606

[CVOBill]

Safe travels Tom.

[wallace18]

Made it up to Wareham about 4 PM yeserday. Going to pick up the pick up this morning, LOL. I will post pictures later.

[rponfick]

So, you posted at 4:05AM. You are not anxious for the pickup
are you?
Like me. Ralph

[wallace18]

We made it to FFR Monday morning and met with all our FFR family members. Chris was very impressed with all the showroom cars. Dave gave us a tour and was so kind to us there. Tony, Dan, Nate, FFR-Chris and Sally were all so helpful. I can't remember everyone else's names. Part of being 60 years old I guess, LOL. Mike Everson stopped by to say hello. It was great to finally meet Mike in person. We loaded the 35 and tied it down. Then Chris Dobbs and I put the MK4 deck in. FFR Chris, Nate, Chris Dobbs and I then loaded the MK4 and all the boxes. Everything fit in my FFR 20" trailer with room to spare. Thanks Tony for those measurement that made this possible! We left FFR at noon Monday and made it to Harrisburg, PA. It snowed the entire time we were in PA on Monday. Lucky nothing stuck to the road. Got up Tuesday Morning and made it home by 10:45PM. Here is a few pictures. I will start Chris's inventory and then mine. Hope to figure out how to get the MK4 out of the trailer on Saturday. We do not have FFR's boom and forklift, LOL. TW

83945839468394783948839498395083951

[wareaglescott]

That is one exceptional trailer packing job! Look forward to following the truck build.

[michael everson]

Good meeting you Tom. Nice to put a face to all these post by you.
mike

[CVOBill]

Nice job of loading the truck and the car, looking forward to hear what you think of the truck as you start building it.

[BN]

That is one exceptional trailer packing job! Look forward to following the truck build.
Great job

[WIS89]

Tom-

Nice job with the trailer; you had plenty of room left too!

I look forward to following along with both builds. However, I am really anxious to see the '35 truck come together!

Best of luck with both projects!

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Got all the boxes out of the trailer yesterday. MK4 inventory done. 35 is half way done. My buddy Jerry Ryan helped with the 35 inventory. Hope to finish it up today and start getting the MK4 stuff going. No manual for the 35 yet but it came with the 33 manual so the front part is the same as far as suspension and engine stuff. I am sure lots of new stuff is to come. I was told it is still a work in progress. No problem for me I have the MK4 to do. I am just so stoked to get one of the first customer 35's.

[Stillwater35]

Nice to see you back home safe and with both kits. I'm customer kit #4 and now a bit worried about them saying it's a work in progress. I'll be interested to see what that means. I'm hoping that we aren't going to be subsidizing their R&D while paying full price for the kit. We'll see and I still remain excited about the project.

[wallace18]

Nice to see you back home safe and with both kits. I'm customer kit #4 and now a bit worried about them saying it's a work in progress. I'll be interested to see what that means. I'm hoping that we aren't going to be subsidizing their R&D while paying full price for the kit. We'll see and I still remain excited about the project.

What I meant to say is they are still finalizing some supplier stuff and manual. That its the price you will always pay for being among the first ones. I went thru that with the 818. If that sorta thing is a bother I always tell folks wait 6-12 months before ordering. I am in no hurry so it is all OK with me.

[Stillwater35]

What I meant to say is they are still finalizing some supplier stuff and manual. That its the price you will always pay for being among the first ones. I went thru that with the 818. If that sorta thing is a bother I always tell folks wait 6-12 months before ordering. I am in no hurry so it is all OK with me.

Totally fair. Can't wait for mine in about 4 weeks!

[David Hodgkins]

/... I am just so stoked to get one of the first customer 35's.

Actually, I was told you are the FIRST customer car that isn't a beta build.

:)

[wallace18]

Actually, I was told you are the FIRST customer car that isn't a beta build.

:)

That is true.
Did not want to brag. LOL

[myjones]

That is true.
Did not want to brag. LOL

Oh great, David is stroking your ego, now we need to get you a metal hat band so your head won't swell.
Now hurry up and finish that 35 so you can drive it to the Nostalgia drags. See you there
Dale

[KenWilkinson]

How does the 35 Truck kit look? Welds good, finish on the body. Anything missing? Any other issues?

[erlihemi]

The FFR World is watching Tom!! No pressure :) Looking forward to seeing pics of the little changes made to the chassis on the truck. Liked Dave's announcement of full roll cage and structural running boards...

[wallace18]

Thanks for all the kind words. I will be building the MK4 first for Chris my painter. Then my 35. I am exchanging labor for a paint job. Plus there is a fairly big list of POL parts so it works out great for me to wait. I will post every day when I start.

[wallace18]

How does the 35 Truck kit look? Welds good, finish on the body. Anything missing? Any other issues?


I really like the 35. The welds are the usual great job by FFR welders, IMO. Body is looking comparable to MK4, Gen3 Type 65, IMO. I am very happy with what I see so far. See post #56 about parts. Being Chassis #4, I knew there would be some stuff coming later. All part of the build.

[Prslegmaker]

Wallace, my build is close to yours. My shop is in Bushnell. I start my build in November when I return. I’d like to meet you when I come down. I’m going south on 75 in a little over a month in my motorhome, headed to Bushnell.
Ronnie

[wallace18]

Wallace, my build is close to yours. My shop is in Bushnell. I start my build in November when I return. I’d like to meet you when I come down. I’m going south on 75 in a little over a month in my motorhome, headed to Bushnell.
Ronnie

PM sent.

[wallace18]

Since I am held up waiting on parts for the MK4 build, I decided to do a little on my 35. I cleaned and painted the steel stuff for the front suspension. I use Brake Klean, Eastwood rust encapsulator, Gloss chassis paint instead of powder coat. I do not have to mess with ball joints. I remove all the boxes from my trailer and have all my 35 stuff on top of my 4-post lift. I jacked up the 35 and put a furniture dolly under it and just rolled it out of the trailer by myself. This way I can do some small stuff till Wednesday when I have surgery. I will be laid up for 7-14 days it seems. But at least all is unloaded now.

859628596385964859658596685967

[wallace18]

Today was a good 35 day. I had my tires mounted and balanced on the wheels Dave Smith set me up with. 225/40/18 front and 245/40/18 rear. Rims are all FFR 8x18. I was able to install most of the front suspension and steering rack. Waiting on shock hats. Hope to do some more stuff tomorrow.

8608886089860908609186092

[wallace18]

My last day before surgery. So I got a lot done. I installed front brakes, hoses and front wheels. Waiting on front spring hats for all 4 shocks. I had 3 hot rod friends stop by and help me remove the cab from the chassis. I also installed the rear end and rear wheels. I ran into a couple easy to fix problems with the rear end. The lower control arms bolt to the rear with 14MM bolt. My steel bushings in my control arms were 12MM. I ended up drilling them out with 9/16" drill, easy peasy. Then the control arm bolts to the frame with 16 MM bolts. the frame holes are 13MM. Out with the drill again and problem solved. I am pretty sure FFR has this fix coming. I dropped Tony and Dan a Email. It felt good to at least have 4 wheels and tires on it. Still waiting on a ton of POL parts. I will be out of service for 1-2 weeks recuperating from minor surgery. Here is some pics.

86125861268612786128861298613086131

[CVOBill]

Looks good Tom. Good luck with the surgery and the recuperating.

[wallace18]

Just FYI my 2009 rear axle fits the driveshaft adapter perfectly if anyone wanted to know.

[WIS89]

Tom-

Surgery go OK? Nothing serious I hope! I also hope recovery goes without incident, and is swift and painless!!

I look forward to seeing you back in the garage soon.

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Everything went well. I can't lift over 20lbs for the next 12 days. It is killing me not to work on truck or MK4, LOL.:(

[WIS89]

Tom-

Yeah, but could you lift 20 lbs before the surgery? HAHA

Pleased the surgery went well, and hope the rehab goes great. I know you miss working on the cars, but to be frank, I enjoy reading about all your hard work!!

I look forward to seeing you back at it.

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Using my floor jack I mounted the fuel tank. For some reason there is no hardware to install the tank straps. I shot FFR an email about that. I had some 5/16" hardware laying around so I could finish it up. I am at a standstill on both kits till PLO parts come. Hope to hear good news from my Doctor tomorrow also.

86746

[wallace18]

Done all I can do for now on the MK4, so the 35 goes on the 2-post lift for some serious work starting Monday-Yea!:cool:


87366 87367

[wallace18]

I got to work 3 hours on the 35 today. I installed the POL bushings for the rear lower control arms and the correct bolts for the front shocks. My kit did not come with a panhard bar. I guess it was a typo mistake on the rear suspension parts page. FFR is sending me one. I did locate the 3 front firewall pieces. I had to trim the areas around some welds for a good fit. Take you time and get everything aligned properly side to side and up and down. I will drill and tap the frame for 10-32 S/S button head screws with rubber backed washers for final install.

874288742987430

[wallace18]

Today I tapped the frame for 10-32 S/S button head screws to install the firewalls. I mounted the battery and drilled the floors to mount in the chassis later.

874858748687487

[wallace18]

I was asked to post better photos of the rear end install. I do believe the manual is coming soon. Here are a few . I hope this helps. Mine is a 2009 mustang rear.

8750587506875078750887509

[herb fraser]

I was asked to post better photos of the rear end install. I do believe the manual is coming soon. Here are a few . I hope this helps. Mine is a 2009 mustang rear.

8750587506875078750887509
Thanks , this is a great help ! Herb

[rponfick]

Wallace, are those all suppled parts, or are some your custom items?
Hope mine shows up in next few days.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Wallace, are those all suppled parts, or are some your custom items?
Hope mine shows up in next few days.
Ralph

Depends on what parts you are talking about. The S/S button heads for the firewall are all my own custom stuff I use. The rear end stuff came with the kit.

[wallace18]

Today I engine turned the firewalls and mounted them after I cut and drilled out for the Whitby Motors Power Brake kit. Also started to drill for interior aluminum some.

87515875168751787518

[wallace18]

I am installing the Whitby power brake kit. I also am using an AOD so no need for a clutch pedal. As you can see in previous post the kit comes with a template and you then drill out for mounting and pass thru for brake rod. You remove studs from Wilwood pedal box as well as pedals. Using the Wilwood shaft you mount the kits pedal to the pedal box and install pedal pad. I offset it to the left for extra clearance from the gas pedal. Then you mount the booster/master to the firewall as it shows in the directions that come with the kit. I used this setup from Whitby on my Type 65 Coupe and had great success. Here is a few photos .

87519875208752187522875238752487525


https://www.whitbymotorcars.com

[rponfick]

Sorry, I was unclear. I meant the rear axle items. So, all from FFR. Great.
Ralph

[Marv]

Nice engine turning Wallace! Mines in the mail to you, LOL

[wallace18]

Finished up drilling and mocking up interior aluminum. I installed steering shaft thru firewall. Always dimple D-shaft so set screw really holds well. I then ran the front brake lines. I also ran the rear down the frame some. I have to go look for some braided lines for rear calipers.

87578875798758087581875828758387584

[BillGardner]

what size bolts did you use to connect the rear lower 3 link bars to the axle? the bushings in the bars seem to be 12mm, but the kit only had 14mm. did yours fit. or did you have to buy something or modify?

[wallace18]

I had to drill out the frame. I contacted FFR and they are supposed to be making a production change for the correct bolt size. What rear end are you using? I had a 2009 Mustang GT. The rear of the lower bars were Ok, but the front where they attached to the frame I had to drill out.

[Stillwater35]

I had to drill out the frame. I contacted FFR and they are supposed to be making a production change for the correct bolt size. What rear end are you using? I had a 2009 Mustang GT. The rear of the lower bars were Ok, but the front where they attached to the frame I had to drill out.

I've got production truck #4 and will be installing the rear end this weekend. I got a fresh one from Moser and will report back if any drilling was required on any of the parts.

[myjones]

Tom
Can you measure that brake booster location so I can see if it will also fit with my new Hemi in the 33 ?

Measure from the top and from the drivers side of the firewall to the bottom side and the far
side of the system. Those two points will let me check for clearance to the rocker covers on the
426 since the front half of the 33 and the 35 are the same. Love watching the build thread on the 35
and missed you at Bowling Green this year.
Dale

[wallace18]

Tom
Can you measure that brake booster location so I can see if it will also fit with my new Hemi in the 33 ?

Measure from the top and from the drivers side of the firewall to the bottom side and the far
side of the system. Those two points will let me check for clearance to the rocker covers on the
426 since the front half of the 33 and the 35 are the same. Love watching the build thread on the 35
and missed you at Bowling Green this year.
Dale

These measurements are based on the round booster tank. From the side to the inner part of the booster it is 10.5"
From the top to the farthest inside part is 7"
From the top to the bottom is 11"

All you should have to do is draw a vertical line 10.5" in from the side and see if it hits your engine. Hope this helps. TW

[wallace18]

Today I flipped the chassis on the lift so I could install the engine and transmission. All went well except I had to use 0.800 spacers on the motor mounts so my header would clear on the passenger side. Most likely I would not needed to do this if I did not buy equal length shorty headers. I also had to buy a pair of 2" x 1/2" carriage bolts for the trans mount. The kit gives you the correct 1" spacers for the trans mount but the carriage bolts are way too short. I also mounted up the j-pipes. I had to shorten the top stud on the drivers side header to install the j-pipe. Overall engine sit perfectly in chassis now.

875988759987600876018760287603

[Marv]

What type of accessory drive unit are you using on the engine?

[KenWilkinson]

I saw that engine when I visited Tom. The accessory drives are from Vintage Air.

[wallace18]

What type of accessory drive unit are you using on the engine?

Like Ken said. Vintage Air front runner system for SBF.

[myjones]

These measurements are based on the round booster tank. From the side to the inner part of the booster it is 10.5"
From the top to the farthest inside part is 7"
From the top to the bottom is 11"
All you should have to do is draw a vertical line 10.5" in from the side and see if it hits your engine. Hope this helps. TW

Tom;
Love watching your build threads.
Thanks for the dimensions, Nowhere near enough room with the wide heads on the Hemi and the coil on plug intrudes even further
into that area. The modern hemi like the early ones still has two side by side rocker shafts so the heads are WIDE along with the
bigger bore and stroke making the block fairly large. The term Elephant motor still applies in everything but weight with it now only
being about 100 lbs heavier than other brands. No power brakes for the Hemi Hot Rod
Dale

[wallace18]

Did not do much today. I had to mow grass and take care of a large burn pile from several trees I took down awhile back. I did modify the Lokar throttle cable/Kick-down cable bracket. I have had these slip and get cocked in the past as they come from Lokar. In first photo you can see 1/2 of the alternate hole in my EFI throttle body. I installed a 5/16" thread insert here, clearance the bracket for the 2nd bolt and now I have 2 bolts holding it down nice and tight. I also installed my Lokar shifter and adjusted it to the transmission. Taking some time off this weekend. Still missing a ton of stuff to finish the kit. FFR and God is teaching me patience, LOL.

87627876288762987630

[Stillwater35]

The only drilling you have to do is for the 5/8" hole in the panhard bar bracket on the rear end. All the other frame drilling mentioned on the beta chassis was fixed by at least chassis #4 (mine). I'll post photos on my build thread later today.


I've got production truck #4 and will be installing the rear end this weekend. I got a fresh one from Moser and will report back if any drilling was required on any of the parts.

[wallace18]

The only drilling you have to do is for the 5/8" hole in the panhard bar bracket on the rear end. All the other frame drilling mentioned on the beta chassis was fixed by at least chassis #4 (mine). I'll post photos on my build thread later today.

Can you check your chassis Number. I have F5R1000004TR. I want to be sure we do not have the same chassis #. Thanks, TW

[Stillwater35]

I'm F5R1000008TR I think production chassis started at 5.

You're the real #4

And PSA - The number is etched in on the firewall cross member right above the pedal box.


Can you check your chassis Number. I have F5R1000004TR. I want to be sure we do not have the same chassis #. Thanks, TW

[KenWilkinson]

14TR here.

[Marv]

11 here

[wallace18]

Installed fuel lines front to back today. Normally a 2 hour job, but because of the new welded brackets for the running boards I had to modify the brackets so I could run my fuel lines like I have done on the 33. I ended up notching them out to run the 2 fuel lines. Came out nice but took 6 hours.

8772387724877258772687727

[wallace18]

My 20x11 rear wheels from FFR came yesterday. I went and had tires installed and balanced. I really like have some big meats on the back. The 8x18 all around did not work for me personally. FYI if you are not using fenders the FFR 20x11 wheels fit perfectly with the 2009 Mustang GT rear end. They will not work with the fenders I was told by Tony at FFR. I installed my electric power brake kit. I do not want the E-Brake handle in the cab. Really nice unit from Speedway. I used the Mustang inner cables so the fit the stock calipers perfect. My custom made rear brake flex hoses came in too. Tomorrow I will finish up all the brake stuff hopefully, LOL. I am going to see about mounting the mufflers behind the cab and not under the passenger floor. It will need custom pipes but I think it will be worth it. Stay tuned.

8777587776877778777887779

[wallace18]

Today I finished up me rear brake lines and bled the whole system.Also had to notch frame brackets for rear brake line to the rear. My lovely wife, Marsha is my chief brake pedal operator for bleeding brakes, LOL. I also finished up the electric e-brake setup in the rear . Works fantastic. Just have to wire it up in the cab later. I had to clearance my transmission housing some to clear the exhaust own pipe on the Passenger side some. Also when you mount the fuse panel there is no more 1/2" square tube to triangulate the panel as in the 33 manual. I had to make a small L-shape bracket so the panel does not flop around. It is very hot here with heat ratings of 105. I only am putting in 4-6 hours a day. Still hoping for some POL parts to come in. WinK, Wink!:rolleyes:

8783087831878328783387834

[wallace18]

Today was another sorta frustrating day. It started out OK. I installed X-Mat on the inside of my firewall. Then the A/C Evaporator assembly. I started on the radiator, condenser and grill assembly. The radiator is totally different than the one in the 33 manual so be aware of this. I had to clearance the grill for stuff not to hit the cross brace way more that with the 33. Also the kit came with7/16" spacers and that is not enough IMO for proper fit of all 3 together. I am going to increase to 8-1/2" spacers instead of the 4 that come with the A/C kit. Also The hole in the bottom of the radiator is for a drain and not the fan switch as in other kits from FFR. I did not get a drain or a plug for this hole anyway. I am going to drill and tap it for my fan switch anyway because I ran out of coolant ports on my intake and T-Stat housing. Patience is the key word on this kit for sure, LOL.:rolleyes:

879458794687947

[rponfick]

Wallace, my chassis no. 15 arrived yesterday.
In looking at the radiator also, which you mentioned, I see no tranny cooler provisions for auto tranny either, which I see you are also running. What are we supposed to do, rely on add-on fluid cooler exclusively. I do not want to add ports to the radiator, and that will not work anyway because you need the "innerds" also.

I noticed the '33 HR radiator had provisions for tranny cooler. Bummer. What gives? I am not starting out real happy.

Ralph

[wallace18]

You are correct. You will have to run an external cooler if you run an Automatic. There is tons of room under the pick up bed. I am going to install this one from Speedway. The 35 is not exactly like the 33 in the front. Many differences. Still a very cool kit IMO.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Perma-Cool-13211-Maxi-Cool-Jr-6-Pass-Transmission-Cooler-w-8-Inch-Fan,97986.html

[wallace18]

I went to Rural King and picked up 8-1/2" spacers for my cooling system upgrade. Now everything fits to my liking. I had preordered the fan shroud and cooling hoses from Replicaparts. Mike Everson sells some really nice add ons IMO. These parts are really for the 33, but I thought I could make them work for the 35. I had to modify the fan shroud some. I ended up using the FFR fan brackets cut down to mount the shroud to the radiator. The studs on the radiator are 6MM BTW. I engine turned the shroud also. The upper hose and cap setup that came with my kit must be some kind on mistake. It came with those heat shrink hose ends already shrunk and the hose would in no way work for my SBF. I used Mike Everson's top hose and cut for the coolant fill cap setup. I was able to use Mike's lower hose from the water pump but had to use different hose to radiator and a bit of flex pipe.The radiator for the 35 is much shorter for the 35 than the 33. It mounted on the frame much better than the 33 IMO. I do trim the top shock bolts even with the nuts for clearance. If I had to guess Mike may come out with a package for the 35 down the road but you can make the 33 stuff work, IMO.

880428804388044880458804688047880488804988050

[wallace18]

Mounted my coolant reservoir. The one that comes with the kit is really trick , but mounts on firewall. I used old style next to radiator mounted to my Replicaparts fan shroud. Started on my A/C lines. I decided to take the 35 to a customer exhaust shop next Tuesday for the mufflers to be mounted behind the cab in the open area in front of the rear end. The exhaust will exit in the triangle area past the rear but before the roll-pan.

882778827988280882848828588286

[wallace18]

Finished up my A/C lines and started on the heater hoses. I mount the heater valve inside the cab. Waiting on some heat shrink hose ends to finish them up. I ended up moving my coil to the firewall. This allowed the heater hose more room. My trans cooler came today. I mounted it above the fuel tank on the drivers side. lots of room there and will protect it some also. I have to order some 6-AN stuff to hook it up. Taking the Forth off. Have a great one everyone!:cool:

883228832388324883258832688327

[herb fraser]

Tom you are really moving on it now , looks great ! by the way I stole your idea to mill finish the firewall ! great idea

[wallace18]

Yesterday I finished up my coolant lines and filled the system with 50/50 antifreeze. I also install some heat shielding for stuff close tho headers. I installed my Lokar gas pedal and throttle cable as well. Tuesday I am taking the 35 to a local Custom Muffler/Exhaust shop for a rear exit exhaust and mufflers under the pickup bed.

885138851488515885168851788518

[wallace18]

Picked up my 35 from Gator Automotive this morning. I am super happy with the rear exhaust they installed. I asked them to use 2"OD pipe instead of the 2.125" pipe that comes with the kit. This allows more room in between frame members IMO. I am not at all concerned about power loss since this is a cruz machine, LOL. I am going to have it all ceramic coated to match my headers. I purposely had them do the ends long so I can trim them once the bed is in place. I will then install some nice S/S or Chrome tips. Everything unbolts and is welded up. I really like how the Flow Master 40 mufflers are like the old Vettes angled up some. I really think this will cut down on heating up the floor of the cab. I may even wrap the under cab portion with header heat wrap. I thought I would share these photos. Enjoy!

8876788768887698877088771887728877388774

[CVOBill]

That looks great Tom.

[rponfick]

Great exhaust.
What battery are you running? Will it be accessible once the bed in on?

Ralph

[wallace18]

Great exhaust.
What battery are you running? Will it be accessible once the bed in on?

Ralph

It is one of the ones in the 33 manual FFR suggests. Yes you can get to it once the bed is on from below. Same as the 33.

[wallace18]

Here is 2 photos of the exhaust from underneath. I also mounted the panhard bar. The bolt in the kit for the RS is a 1/4" too short. I used the correct length so the locknut fully engaged.

888028880388804

[wallace18]

Got a lot done today. First I taped off my floor and interior metal. Then coated with Lizard Skin sound deadener then ceramic heat coating. Next I secured the trans cooler lines and wire harness to the rear of the truck. With the exhaust in place I could route everything to minimize the heat transfer. I shielded anywhere it was close. Then I installed the interior floor and sides. Finally caulked the gaps.

8886388864888658886688867888688886988870

[KenWilkinson]

Who has the best price for Lizard Skin? Is one gallon the amount to use?

[wallace18]

You will have to shop for the best price.I buy from Speedway. 1 gallon of each will easyily do one car.

[Marv]

Looking great! I noticed you are using a in tank fuel pump, where did you source it from? Is it a mustang unit and if so what year? I’m in need of a 60 psi in tank unit. Thanks

[wallace18]

Looking great! I noticed you are using a in tank fuel pump, where did you source it from? Is it a mustang unit and if so what year? I’m in need of a 60 psi in tank unit. Thanks

Summit 1992 mustang. The pump does not control the PSI the fuel pressure regulator does. My FITech unit has one built in. Some EFI requires an external one.

[wallace18]

Did some small stuff today. I wired up a relay for my trans cooler fan. I used the fuel pump wire to close the relay and installed a 15 amp fuse holder to feed the relay contacts. This way as long as engine is running, fan will run. With my 3000 stall converter and FL heat I should be Ok now. I also finished up installing aluminum trim around seat belt brackets. Installed my front harness and my AA-OO-GAH horn, LOL.

890098901089011

[wallace18]

Got 3 boxes from FFR today. POL stuff. driveshaft, tailgate straps and hinge mounts, front and rear glass for cab, fuel filler gasket, Trans tunnel and top and front of pick up bed. Still missing electric steering, interior, seat, fuel filler neck, steering wheel adapter and side windows. Hopefully those will come soon.
Not enough to go-cart but should keep me busy. :)

[Erik W. Treves]

On the electric steering I had to modify the frame mount (re-drill 1 hole) then add a shim in the unit after removing the rear cover . The frame mount then goes in between the power steering motor and the rear cover.

[wallace18]

On the electric steering I had to modify the frame mount (predrill 1 hole) then add a shim in the unit after remocing the rear cover . The frame mount then goes in between the power steering motor and the rear cover.

Thanks. I will keep that in mind once I get the parts.

[Marv]

I’ve been told Electra steer is about 3 weeks out.

[wallace18]

I was asked about the dimensions of the oval gauge cluster by some folks in PM's. Since I cannot post photos there here is some pics and dimensions. Basically the hole for the cluster is 10 3/4" long by 3 3/8" high in an oval shape. The kit comes with a metal frame or template. Here is some pics.

892978929889299893008930189302

[wallace18]

Took off my custom rear exhaust. Taking it to Performance Coatings in GA tomorrow for ceramic Perma-Chrome coating. Stopping by Summit on the way home to lighten my wallet some, LOL. :cool:

[herb fraser]

Took off my custom rear exhaust. Taking it to Performance Coatings in GA tomorrow for ceramic Perma-Chrome coating. Stopping by Summit on the way home to lighten my wallet some, LOL. :cool:
MY WALLET HAS BEEN KILLING ME lol

[wallace18]

I have not posted for a few days. Sorta bummed out. :( After cutting the gas tank pipe and installing it and tank gasket. I filled up the tank with 6 gallons of gas and started my engine. Well it idled real rough and had very low vacuum. Also ran hot after only 10 minutes. It seems the cam kit I had laying around was a full race kit and my used Craigs List block is cracked. Neither will work with and Automatic for sure. So I have a Blueprint 347 long block coming. Out with my pieced together 5.0. I will salvage what I can but sometimes these things happen. If you already have your fuel tank in you will have to cut the fuel pipe as short as I did so it will clear the frame. Don't worry it will work with POL hose that is coming sometime, LOL.

894718947289473

[Stillwater35]

Oh man, I feel for you. I am going to try a start up this week.

[DamnYankee]

Great looking project (bummer about the motor). I'm only a few hours away from you, would like to check it out sometime.
Ron

[herb fraser]

too bad about the motor , YEA but NEW one its way !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, build is looking great.
Herb

[wallace18]

Great looking project (bummer about the motor). I'm only a few hours away from you, would like to check it out sometime.
Ron

Sure thing . week of August 6-11 works well for me.

[DamnYankee]

PM sent

[wallace18]

Had dyno sheet emailed to me for my 347 coming Thursday. Nice #'s

89655

[rponfick]

Noticed you have been putting in your floor panels. Did you put the 3 small side panels in first to support the main center floor panel, or add them last? I have been mocking mine up and that question came to me. Looks like they would support the floor better in put in first. Without instructions from FFR, we are winging it.
Since I am still missing spindles and shock parts, at least I can drill holes.
Thanks, Ralph

[FF33rod]

Had dyno sheet emailed to me for my 347 coming Thursday. Nice #'s

89655

Great numbers on the 347, along the lines of what I was looking for. Was it one of their standard offerings? I see a 415/415 on their site but this seems a bit more healthy in the torque dept.

[wallace18]

Great numbers on the 347, along the lines of what I was looking for. Was it one of their standard offerings? I see a 415/415 on their site but this seems a bit more healthy in the torque dept.

that is the one. They downgrade the estimate since every engine is different. On the 2 I bought both were much higher in HP and TQ.

[wallace18]

Engine came today. True story. FEDEX was delivering and said any time from 10AM to 8PM. It rains here every afternoon. While my wife and I were having lunch we always pray before eating. At the end of my prayer I said God, if you can get that engine here before it rains I would be grateful. In 1 minute the phone rang and it was the FEDEX guy saying he was 15 minutes out. Never underestimate the power of prayer, LOL. Amen. I had to swap out the front timing cover for my Vintage Air setup and started to install all my goodies. Hope to here it run by Monday. I have to go out of town tomorrow.

9062890629906309063190632

[Marv]

Glad it got there.

[herb fraser]

Praise the Lord, Glad it showed up !

[wallace18]

Only able to work a few hours each of the last few days. Today I was able to get the engine running and adjust the AOD throttle pressure at idle in drive. Hope to charge A/C tomorrow. Here is pics of engine , exhaust since ceramic coating and header wrap under cab.
Link to how to adjust the TV pressure on AOD. Very important!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5JediOEQ3U

9074590746907479074890749

[wallace18]

Here is the engine running, Woo Hoo!:cool:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvn_NtIuG_A&feature=youtu.be

[Mick40]

Outstanding!!! Love following your builds.

Mick

[herb fraser]

really enjoying your build ! I can stay 10 steps behind you and I will not need the manual !
put my engine in today :)

[wallace18]

Running out of stuff to do. Steering hub and electric steering should ship from FFR this week, Yea! I did charge my A/C, blows a cold 42 degrees. I installed the transmission tunnel and rear of cab aluminum part as well.

9086790869

[Stillwater35]

Looks great Tom,
We are right at the same stages. My next move is to put the body on and start with that process. Got up to 40MPH this weekend. I need to do a better job with an alignment and still need to get more ATF in. Need to re-bleed the brakes too as the pedal was a little soft.

Getting there!

[wallace18]

I installed the A/C drain tube and mocked up the dash gauge set and A/C controls.

90883908849088590886

[JimLev]

Had dyno sheet emailed to me for my 347 coming Thursday. Nice #'s

89655


Nice flat torque curve. Excellent exhaust noise!

[wallace18]

I ended up installing my cab today. To be honest I was running out of stuff to do otherwise. I had a few friends help me lower the cab on the chassis. You will have to trim the flange on the sides near the firewall to get the body to fit correctly on the firewall. You may also have to notch the lower lip of the cab so it can go far enough in on the sides as well. I talked to Tony and Ron and I need to get my bedsides mocked up before I bolt down the rest of the cab. That will be another days work for sure. Manual is still 3-4 weeks out I was told. My suggestion is if this is your first kit wait on the manual for the body. I personally do not like to do this part without pictures, measurements and descriptions. The cab is so much easier to bolt up to the firewall vs the 33. The removable dash makes this part so easy. Thanks FFR! Here is some photos.

909599096090961909629096390964

[Stillwater35]

Manual is still 3-4 weeks out I was told. My suggestion is if this is your first kit wait on the manual for the body. I personally do not like to do this part without pictures, measurements and descriptions.

That's me. I may give it a go as Tony has offered to help me through it. Did you buy your own hardware to attach it or are those the "secondary body fasteners" Does FFR expect rivets for that?

Looking great!

[wallace18]

That's me. I may give it a go as Tony has offered to help me through it. Did you buy your own hardware to attach it or are those the "secondary body fasteners" Does FFR expect rivets for that?

Looking great!

I use my own S/S hardware. I like to be able to remove stuff down the road if needed.

[wallace18]

After talking to Tony Zullo and Ron ( FFinisher) I decided to do my own deal on mounting the bed and sides. I do not plan on doing a wood bed but paint the S/S floor to look like wood. On that note I wanted the S/S floor as flat as I could to the chassis. What I did is the following. Not saying this is the correct way, just my way for this build. Copy at your own risk! LOL. First I marked off exactly 1/2" from the back of the cab on the cabs fiberglass flange. Then I trimmed to that mark. Next I attached the S/S front of the bed to the drivers side panel. This allowed me to position the side panel easy to get it the 1/2" away from the cab and got the bed height correct front to back. I laid the bed floor inside on top of the S/S front flange and squared it all up. Then I marked from the inside the hole where the shock mount is to the S/S part of the side panel. Then installed a S/S 1/4-20 stud there and drilled to match. Now the panel laid up with the bottom of the molding matching the cab molding. The cab molding is 1/4" wider than the bed molding. Go figure? I will end up doing some fiberglass work to work on a way there to make them match up better where they meet. Then I just drilled the rest of the mounts for studs and will use S/S acorn nuts on the outside of the side panel The cab ended up being right on top of the frame for alignment so I mounted that with a pair of S/S 10-32 screws. I will add more later. I like how it came out so far. Here is some pics.

91021910229102391024910279102591026

[CVOBill]

Looks great Tom!

[Marv]

Looking good I also trimmed the flange to just larger than 1/2 inch and then fit the bed..

[Erik W. Treves]

Make sure you put the gas tank in first before you attempt this (ask me how I know :) ) I know you are beyond that point.... but if you don't leave enough room aft.. the rear part of the bead hits the gas tank strap mount... again ask me how I know... lol... I was too far down the road and had to come up with an alternate gas tank mounting path

[herb fraser]

Moving right along Tom, it looks great !
Herb

[wallace18]

Make sure you put the gas tank in first before you attempt this (ask me how I know :) ) I know you are beyond that point.... but if you don't leave enough room aft.. the rear part of the bead hits the gas tank strap mount... again ask me how I know... lol... I was too far down the road and had to come up with an alternate gas tank mounting path

Thanks Erik, I had previously done away with the normal rear tank strap mounts. My are flush with the back so I can mount the rear roll pan right to the frame if I decide to. I will take pictures and post tomorrow.

[wallace18]

Here is what I did on the rear gas tank straps. I mounted the tank as normal then drilled and installed steel rivets to the frame. I then cut off the excess strap and cutoff the bolt brackets. Now there is nothing in the way of the rear roll pan if you mount the bed farther forward.

91048

[Erik W. Treves]

I did almost the exact same thing! lol

[wallace18]

Finished up the passenger side of the bed. I used studs as per Ron (FFinisher), works well. Hope to do roll pan and tailgate next week.

910729107391074

[wallace18]

This afternoon I mocked up my roll pan and tailgate. You will have to do a fair amount of trimming to make the roll pan fit. Then trim the inside bed area after you get the tailgate mocked up as well. I am going to mount my tailgate permanently. For me there is no need to have it open. The hinges are mounted to the roll pan and if it was in the down position I would be afraid someone would sit on it and ruin my truck. The bed is so low there is no need for me to have it open. Plus I think it has a cleaner look without the hinges and chains. I will try to install the radiator surround and hood next.

9127691277912789127991280

[wallace18]

This morning I trimmed out my roll-pan and installed riv-nuts. Then mounted my tailgate. I just laid the front fiberglass parts in place. I will have to do a fair amount of work to make all them fit for sure. I will open up the sides so you can see that 347 some, LOL. I am taking some time off of the 35. I have to get ready for a trip out West we are taking to visit family. Also have to go take the body off the chassis of the MK4 for my painter Chris. I made an inquiry about a wood bed with a company. They have a neat page in which you chose the color of your truck and can see different wood bed options. web page below. My hope is POL parts and manual will be here when I return. :cool:

http://bedwoodandparts.com/p-19614-visualizer.html

9132691327

[wallace18]

Found out why my POL parts are not showing up. My list got accidentally closed out. Lucky for me Jay at FFR is going to get going on sending me my POL stuff. All part of the fun. :rolleyes:

[adubbelde]

Check out Bruce Horkey in Minnesota for bed wood as well.
https://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com

[wallace18]

Check out Bruce Horkey in Minnesota for bed wood as well.
https://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com

Thanks, after checking these couple places I decided to buy wood and do it my self for about 1/5 the price.

[herb fraser]

Thanks, after checking these couple places I decided to buy wood and do it my self for about 1/5 the price.
Hi Tom I am also making my own bed I think out of walnut . but I found these on ebay (polished stainless steel strips )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302675846495 he has others for less but no polished
Herb

[wallace18]

Hi Tom I am also making my own bed I think out of walnut . but I found these on ebay (polished stainless steel strips )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302675846495 he has others for less but no polished
Herb

Thanks Herb.

[wallace18]

Had some free time today. After squaring up the bed floor and sides, I drilled for my rivets down the road. Also drilled the rear cab flange for rivets down the road too.

914479144891449

[rponfick]

Wallace, I noticed you commented on the gas tank filler fittings. Did you get the nice gas cap that fits in the bed. I didn't and don't even see it on my inventory listing.
I noticed a picture of it in the Beta version of the assembly manual that was emailed today. Wahoo.
Also, I see the wood bed liner on their options list on the order form for the pickup. Priced at $699.
Ralph

PS. does the SS bed liner butt up against your trimmed cab bed lip that you drilled today in your last picture?

[wallace18]

Wallace, I noticed you commented on the gas tank filler fittings. Did you get the nice gas cap that fits in the bed. I didn't and don't even see it on my inventory listing.
I noticed a picture of it in the Beta version of the assembly manual that was emailed today. Wahoo.
Also, I see the wood bed liner on their options list on the order form for the pickup. Priced at $699.
Ralph

PS. does the SS bed liner butt up against your trimmed cab bed lip that you drilled today in your last picture?

You should be getting the fuel filler. FFR knows they omitted some items on early orders. The front of the bed lays up against my trimmed cab flange and the bed floor lays on top butted against the front S/S part. You should be getting your manual soon.

[wallace18]

Trimmed dash with template and clearance around roll bars. Trimmed front and installed bulb seal. Take your time and do a little at a time.

9155291553

[rponfick]

Did you drill all the holes in your dash? Also, the small 4 hole panel below the gauge cluster opening, is that something you made up, or was it part of your shipped parts. I am missing the bulb seal if that was part of the supplied parts.

I hope you don't get irritated with all my questions.

Thanks, Ralph

[wallace18]

Did you drill all the holes in your dash? Also, the small 4 hole panel below the gauge cluster opening, is that something you made up, or was it part of your shipped parts. I am missing the bulb seal if that was part of the supplied parts.

I hope you don't get irritated with all my questions.

Thanks, Ralph

Yes I drilled all the round holes. The part below gauge cluster is the A/C control panel. The bulb seal I had laying around from previous 10 builds. Feel free to ask questions.

[wallace18]

Got a 36lb box from FFR of some of my POL parts. Electric steering, hub, fuel filler parts, hood hinges, templates. Unfortunately I am leaving on vacation so they will have to wait on my return. I do have enough to go-cart soon after I get back, Woo Hoo!

[herb fraser]

Woo Hoo is right ! enjoy your vacation !
herb

[wallace18]

Well it seems I had some free time today anyhow. I installed the electric P/S. You will most likely have to trim the motor mount plate and chassis motor plate as well to make it fit. At least I did for my 35. Do not forget to dimple the shafts so they stay secure and use red locktite. I mounted the ECU as well. Well that should be all till I get back, LOL.

91828918299183091831918329183391834

[rponfick]

Was it your engine choice, headers, oil pan, that required the steering bracket mods? I noticed in previous posts that you installed spacers on the motor mounts. Can you elaborate on what caused issues.

Just curious, as I have a small block Ford and Canton split sump oil pan. Most of the capacity is to the rear of the pan.

Thanks, Ralph

[wallace18]

All that info is in prior posts. Just read thru. As in any kit you build there are always mods you may have to do. All part of the process. As long as you use regular shorty headers you should be fine. Though that oil pan may give you problems. Time will tell. Best of luck.

[wallace18]

In case you were wondering what I was up to I drove our truck and camper out to the west coast and back for a 3 week vacation. As well as visit family in Los Angeles. We drove thru FL, AL, MS, TX, NM, AZ, CA, OR, WA, ID and UT. Had a great time and saw really neat stuff. I did some work on the 35 today. I aligned the front end and wired up the Electric P/S. I have a few dash things to do then I will go-cart. Then I will put 35 aside to finish up MK4 for my painter.

937499375093751

[mburger]

Looks great. Wouldn't mind seeing pics from your road trip.

[wallace18]

Put in the dash stuff and drove the 35 today. Very quick. Ran out of gas doing video, LOL. At least it was in my driveway.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGSg3iAlmdo&feature=youtu.be



9380293803

[ehansen007]

Looks great Tom!

[DamnYankee]

Awesome job, looks great

[jayguy]

Looks and sounds great, Love the horn!

[herb fraser]

HI Tom do you or anyone else know why I cant load the videos ?
Herb

[wallace18]

You first must post your video to You Tube. Then you click on the second to last icon that looks like movie film. Copy the you tube web address (URL) for your video in the box and click OK.

[herb fraser]

your the best , thanks Tom

[Mitch Wright]

Awesome build (again) Wallace.

[herb fraser]

Really looks and sounds great !
Herb

[Rleon]

Tom,
Looks and sounds great.
Will be sending a PM.

[rponfick]

Wallace, could you elaborate a bit on your assembly sequence for the rear roll-panel? The roll-panel, since it fits inside the side bed panels, it is hard to get in place unless you leave the side panels loose and force it into place. Then, it just flops around until you secure it somehow. Did you affix the roll panel to the frame first to stabilize, and then lay up the side panels? And, then reaching under to secure all the side panel bolts is a real test. I am trying to envision the process after everything is painted.

Thanks, Ralph

[Stillwater35]

I did it in this sequence:
1. Driver side panel securely affixed.
2. Passenger side only half affixed
3. Pull on the passenger side enough to get it in - didn't take loads of force but some.
4. Then I put 2 holes and clecos on the under side affixing the side to the roll pan. Button heads and acorns are coming
5. Then I put 1 hole on each side on the vertical face between the roll and and side below the bottom seam of the tailgate. Cleco for now, button head later.

I didn't attach it to the frame at all because it would have caused the fuel tank bracket to be modified.

So in short - the sides are fixed. The roll pan is fixed to them and it gets all pinched together with the tailgate at the top.

[wallace18]

I just removed the back few side fasteners on the drivers side and slid the roll pan in place then trimmed it to fit then attached it. You may need to remove and install a few times to get it correct. same goes with doors, hood, etc.

[wallace18]

I finally finished up my other projects and had some time to work on my 35. I drilled and tapped the chrome door hinges. Was going to install the t-hinge brackets to the chassis. I am 99.9% sure I did not get them or any of the hardware for the door hinge stuff. I sent a photo and email to Tony at FFR. I am sure he will make it right for me. The stuff I am missing is the brackets on page 305 of Beta manual. Here is what I have. I am pretty sure the 4 on the left are 33 brackets. The 3rd set is for the 35 rear door striker. and the last set is for the inner door frame stuff. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks, TW

94612

[Erik W. Treves]

the 4 brackets on the left are not for the truck

the far right brackets are for the door bear claw assy inside the door

the brackets to the left of those are for the door striker pin

[wallace18]

the 4 brackets on the left are not for the truck

the far right brackets are for the door bear claw assy inside the door

the brackets to the left of those are for the door striker pin

Thanks.

[wallace18]

Tony and David at FFR are sending me the missing stuff. Yea!:cool:

[wallace18]

My t- brackets and hardware came in. Here is a photo of them. If you got one of the early kits see if you have these. If not, contact FFR. Due to the MK4 and parts delays I will have to shelf the 35 for a little while. I promised a customer to build his MK4 starting the 20th. Leave me little 35 time. Maybe the rest of the POL parts will show during that time.

9544195442

[GoDadGo]

9380293803

The Hot Rod Grill & Lack Of Fenders Is Spot On Perfect!

Super Cool Truck Proving That Less Is Often More, Way More!

[wallace18]

Got in 3 hours today on the 35. I finished up my door hinges and mounted the frame, hinges and latch to the doors. Pretty simple stuff following the Beta manual. here is some pics.

956739567495675956769567795678

[Erik W. Treves]

in the second picture... you have the bearclaw mount behind the main door piece... I had mine that way initially and ended up swapping the order... carriage bolt - bearclaw mount piece - main door piece - then nut... it worked great the way you have it now....until I installed the widows... then not so much.

[wallace18]

in the second picture... you have the bearclaw mount behind the main door piece... I had mine that way initially and ended up swapping the order... carriage bolt - bearclaw mount piece - main door piece - then nut... it worked great the way you have it now....until I installed the widows... then not so much.

So if I understand you correctly you have Bolts then door skin, then latch, then inner door frame, then nuts is that correct? Jay at FFR told me the first batch of windows they received were incorrect, and a new batch that has the correct dimensions will be here mid November. I may wait to see if the way the Beta manual has them will work with the new windows. Thanks for the help.

[Erik W. Treves]

never mind... I just checked my build pictures again... this is how I had it the first time...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95696&d=1539655839

which didn't work.... yours is correct!

BTW on mine... the cable holder for the door release in the picture.... the one towards the front of the door (the right eyelet in the picture) was too far fwd (or right as you look at it) on both brackets... hopefully you don't run into any issue... FFR said they were already tracking the issue and have moved the bracket slightly to accommodate the cables correctly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95697&d=1539655997

the redesigned window came out of this observation.... you will notice how close the window is the back of the door... went back and forth with Jim on this and his thought in the end was to make the window slightly more narrow... i think this will make the window install process WAY easier!

[wallace18]

Thanks for the pics, Erik. I am going to use door solenoids, no outside door handles. Also I am going to use inside openers like the 33 directly on the latch mechanism instead of cables, if I can. I will document later.

[wallace18]

I am trying to do as much with the door as I can before installing it on the truck. Much to my dismay, I am missing the P/W motor brackets and all the inside door handle stuff as well. FFR will remedy that I am sure. I did find out we are a few weeks from getting seat and interior stuff as well as 4-6 weeks out on door windows. Just thought I would pass that info along. Gives us plenty of time to do other stuff for sure. TW

[wallace18]

In between fixing generators that are going up to the panhandle for the UMC. I was able to install my door solenoids and make them work. I do not like outside door handles on my own vehicles I build. The solenoids are out of the way of everything and easy to adjust or remove. I used the outer door handle cables. Still not sure how to do the inside. I may just use the FFR stuff when it gets here.

95706957079570895709

[wallace18]

Was able to lightly trim my doors. I use 1/8" tape then silver sharpie. Then I belt sand till the black is gone. I am missing the passenger lower hinge bracket. Somehow I got 2 drivers side ones, LOL. FFR and Dave is sending me the correct part. I did get the drivers door mounted . It opens and closes. Still gap and fit work to be done. I am starting on the grill surround. I mounted 10 rubber bumpers. Trimming next.

95732957339573495735957369573795738

[Marv]

Looking good!

[wallace18]

Trimmed the passenger door, waiting on parts. I did a little bit on the hood. (My paint/body guy) Chris coming over tomorrow morning, to give some help and advice on door, hood and radiator shell fitment. Too bad about parts situation. I could have had this out to paint weeks ago. But that is how the ball bounces sometimes. I have an MK4 coming to build on Saturday. Here is a few pics.

9576495765

[Stillwater35]

I did just get a "Truck Update" Fedex tracking # that is 18lbs. So maybe some goodies are on the way.

[wallace18]

I did just get a "Truck Update" Fedex tracking # that is 18lbs. So maybe some goodies are on the way.

Me Too!

[wallace18]

Finished up my Customer MK4 in 33 days, Woo Hoo! Back on my 35 now. I mounted the radiator shell. I used 10/24 S/S truss screws. I installed rev-nuts in small bracket and tapped grill and top bracket. Came out nice. Working on hood now. Hope to get door on passenger side done this week. Still waiting on parts. Hopefully get parts before Christmas.

9822598226982279822898229982309823198232

[rponfick]

Welcome back. Good to see your progress.
Could you post a picture of the hinge bracket mount to the grill/radiator support. There seems to be some confusion on how to position the mount.
Is there some metal backing under the hood mounting spot?
Keep up the great work
Thanks, Ralph

[wallace18]

Welcome back. Good to see your progress.
Could you post a picture of the hinge bracket mount to the grill/radiator support. There seems to be some confusion on how to position the mount.
Is there some metal backing under the hood mounting spot?
Keep up the great work
Thanks, Ralph

Here is 2 photos. Not easy to see with cover in place. Yes there is metal in hood where hinge brackets go. Hope this helps.

9825698257

[wallace18]

I installed the hood and it went on perfect first time. I think by using 10-24 allen screws instead of 1/4-20 this allowed for more adjustment. I put the hood in the down position and just installed the carriage bolts. Tightened it all up and it opens and closes fine. Everything lined up perfect the first go. Installed the striker in the hood with rivnuts. Was going to install latch but I never got the latch cover shown in the manual. Another email to Tony at FFR! Here is some more photos.

982619826298263982819828298283

[wallace18]

Installed my hood prop rod. Working on headlights. I down grade wire size on LED part of the headlight. Makes it much easier to thread wires thru hollow bolt, IMO.

98329983309833198332

[Erik W. Treves]

That's awesome. I like the installation of the prop rod... is that in the manual now? I struggled with that on mine since "somebody" cut a giant hole in the middle of the hood....I finally figured something out... but that looks pretty simple and slick.

nicely done!

[wallace18]

That's awesome. I like the installation of the prop rod... is that in the manual now? I struggled with that on mine since "somebody" cut a giant hole in the middle of the hood....I finally figured something out... but that looks pretty simple and slick.

nicely done!

Yess it is in the BETA manual. Thanks.

[wallace18]

Finished up the passenger door. Mocked up my custom lights. I like them in the roll pan. We will bevel the bottom of the roll pan to fit right up to them. Working on a panel below the dash for my radio.

983989839998400

[wallace18]

Got an email from Jay at FFR. Door panels and bench seats came in. Should ship soon. No headliner material for inside of cab with kit. I will be removing my cab to fix crack and paint inside. I may install headliner stuff myself on the roof and sides where the carpet and aluminum is not. FYI.

[Marv]

Got an email from Jay at FFR. Door panels and bench seats came in. Should ship soon. No headliner material for inside of cab with kit. I will be removing my cab to fix crack and paint inside. I may install headliner stuff myself on the roof and sides where the carpet and aluminum is not. FYI.

Are you saying FFR will not be supplying a headliner or they just don’t have them yet?

[wallace18]

Are you saying FFR will not be supplying a headliner or they just don’t have them yet?

Not supplying one. It is up to the builder if he wants one. I will document what I end up doing.

[wallace18]

Today I mocked up the 4 aluminum panels inside the 4 corners of the cab. I trimmed them so I can put bulb seal where they come close to the cab. The carpet kit has carpet for these as well. The carpet kit covers the inside aluminum but not the fiberglass. Does anyone have pictures of how the 34498-99 radiator cowl lower mounts go on the truck? See last photo.

984619846298463984649846598466

[rponfick]

I thought I had seen some previous comments about the headliner being under development in England.
Ralph

[rponfick]

Wallace, do the panels in your picture 4, left side of photo, up the lower door opening have a number on them? I do not seem to have these panels in my alum. parts.

I concur on where do 34498-99 go?

Great work. Ralph

[wallace18]

Wallace, do the panels in your picture 4, left side of photo, up the lower door opening have a number on them? I do not seem to have these panels in my alum. parts.

I concur on where do 34498-99 go?

Great work. Ralph

They go in front of the door opening inside where the hinges are. I am not in my shop now. I'll get you a # pmed to you tomorrow.

[rponfick]

Thanks, you rush. Just need to put on my needed list.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Wallace, do the panels in your picture 4, left side of photo, up the lower door opening have a number on them? I do not seem to have these panels in my alum. parts.

I concur on where do 34498-99 go?

Great work. Ralph

Ralph here you go.

9861698617

[wallace18]

Tony sent me my hood latch cover. I engine turned it to match my fire wall. Works fantastic. I am taking all the body stuff off for paint and repair of the crack in the cab we made installing the cab the first time. My body/paint guy Chris will start on the dash, bed panels. I will get the cab back after the crack is fixed. I am a little disappointed no headliner stuff with kit. All the SEMA stuff was custom one off interiors. I am going to use black nylon flock on the inside of the cab where it shows above the covers and carpet. I like the look as well as how easy it is to install. Here is a link to a dash being flocked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CKsHDOhAZQ

9861898619

We will install the cab after flocking and doors then paint them on the frame. The rest off the frame.

[CVOBill]

Tom,
That "flocking" video had me cracking up. It looks interesting for sure...should be flocking easy to do. :p

[Marv]

Wallace you’re a flocking genius. This might very well be the answer to the headliner delima! I am interested to see how it turns out.

[rponfick]

Wallace, thanks for the panel numbers.
I am also disappointed with the no headliner issue, as I led to believe that it would be available.
I have coated the back of my bed panels and some other panels with bed liner and I am pleased with how it looks. I am considering using that as my “headliner”. You can always cover it with something else as it becomes available.
Just a thought.
Ralph

[Marv]

Ralph here you go.

9861698617

I’m confused Tony at FFR is saying these part numbers and panels don’t exist. We’re these on your inventory list?
Has anyone else received these panels?

[wallace18]

I got these from FFR in a box of POL parts. talk to Jay or Jesper.

98660

[rponfick]

Marv, the panels are listed on my inventory as being included, but they were not. Were not listed on any subsequent POL listings. Looks like we need to inquire.

Also, any word on the completed assembly manual being shipped.

We may have to chastise Wallace for making bootleg panels.

Ralph

[wallace18]

Marv, the panels are listed on my inventory as being included, but they were not. Were not listed on any subsequent POL listings. Looks like we need to inquire.

Also, any word on the completed assembly manual being shipped.

We may have to chastise Wallace for making bootleg panels.

Ralph


Tony said manual is at printers.

[Marv]

Looks like only the very early trucks got the panels, they were designed in April but them removed from production. Guess we’ll have to make our own.

[wallace18]

Today I removed my cab. I am sending it out Monday to Chris my paint/body man. He needs to fix the crack in the passenger A-pillar. We accidentally did that installing the cab in August. Once I get it back repaired the game plan is install everything back except bed and lights. Then send out for final body fitment and paint.

98672986739867498675

[wallace18]

Just heard from Jay the last of my POL parts are going out today FedEX, Yea!

[Stillwater35]

Including your seat?

[wallace18]

Yes. I think all seats, interiors and windows came in to FFR last week.

[wallace18]

Finished up my under dash console that houses my radio, window switches and electric E-Brake switch. Taking my cab to Chris tomorrow to fix crack and prepare for interior flocking.

988259882698827

[wallace18]

Did a test of the flocking deal. I am thinking you may need to make sure inside of cab is fairly smooth. We are going to smooth out my inside before I try this on my cab. The test was done on a cut out of a MK4 hood scoop. first is raw , second is glue, very thick and shiny and last is it flocked. 72 hours normal dry time but instructions say you can cut it to 7 hours with heat lamp. Looks very nice so far. Very easy to apply.

988699887098871

[KenWilkinson]

Any choice of colors besides "Black Hole" ?

[CVOBill]

That is pretty cool Tom.

[wallace18]

Any choice of colors besides "Black Hole" ?

They have several colors. I like to call it just black, wise guy, LOL.

http://www.flockit.com

[rponfick]

Will be watching your progress. Do you think the project can be done in segments, leaving no parting line? I would think it would be hard to get glue over entire cab area, and flocked, before the glue starts drying.

Looks good so far.

Ralph

[wallace18]

Will be watching your progress. Do you think the project can be done in segments, leaving no parting line? I would think it would be hard to get glue over entire cab area, and flocked, before the glue starts drying.

Looks good so far.

Ralph

Not sure Ralph. I will try to do all at once. If I need parting lines I will make them in a good area. :cool:

[KenWilkinson]

They have several colors. I like to call it just black, wise guy, LOL.

http://www.flockit.com

You gotta admit from the photo, it looks like it sucks up all available light! ;-)

I had thought about using Neoprene by the yard. Might have to rethink this. Good for you for figuring this out.

[wallace18]

Gracie the wonder dog say's This bench seat is the ticket for me to go for rides! Way better than that MK4 transmission tunnel I had to sit on! LOL :o

98875

[Marv]

Wallace what’s the trick to get the rear flat on the floor

[wallace18]

Wallace what’s the trick to get the rear flat on the floor

I am sworn to secrecy for right now. FFR is on the fix.