Shoeless GTM #501 Here we go!!!

[Shoeless]

Well, now is as good as time as any. My name is Sean Jackson, I live in Palm City Florida, I am an Aerospace Engineering by trade, turned Program Manager and I work at Pratt & Whitney. I took delivery of GTM #501 on 10/3 and am very excited to join this group of talented builders.

I have spoken to a couple of you over the phone, and a few messages here and there to get some general guidance, so thank you so far and thank you in advance for the many questions I’m sure I will be posting here.

Here are my plans so far, and please anybody jump in if you see something that doesn’t add up.

- LS3 427 From Blue Print Engines. I have been working with Johnny there so far and he is eager to help power a GTM as they mostly do motors for the MkIVs. He is offering some very nice incentives to have me work with him and I am very happy so far.
- Infinity AEM Engine Management System (one main selling point is adding traction control that this system provides and I love the idea of being able to integrate a tablet in the car to do any tuning on the fly).
- Mendy Transaxle – Glad I ordered this a while ago as there is a 5-6 month lead time when I ordered.
- Some derivation of Tino’s Procision set up.
- Infinity Box Setup with all the goodies.
- Boyd’s Aluminum Tanks – Still haven’t decided on internal or external fuel pump.
- QRP Custom Bilstein Shocks and coil overs and front sway bar.
- Kooks fully ceramic coated exhaust.
- All kinds of goodies from Shane and others.
- Wilwood Breaks.
- Forgestar F14 (19x9 Fronts and 20x12 Rears).
- More to follow.

I have gone through most of the inventory so far, and I will be honest, I’m a little disappointed in FF service so far. Here’s a couple examples. FFR sent me the carpet and vinyl box after my shipment, but it contained 2 full sets of carpet. They didn’t believe me until I sent them a photo of the 2 full sets laid out on the ground. Plus my exhaust screens are not cut in the same orientation, and I’m told FF can’t do anything about it. I offered if they provide me with a shipping label, I would send them back with the extra carpet in exchange for proper ones, but they didn’t take me up on my offer. I hope this is not what I am in store for with them.

Here are a couple first questions, I apologize if they have been discussed a 100 times, I’m simply flooded with reading build threads and watching videos:

1. I have gone through all the Aluminum pieces shipped on the frame. I count 30, but the inventory says I’m supposed to have 33. Take a look at the pics and see if you guys can help. I think I have everything up front correctly, so I'm missing something in the middle or rear sections I believe. Plus I don't see the Rear Body Mount anywhere. Not sure where this would have been packaged.

2. What is your guys preferred fuel pump setup? Internal vs. External? I'd hate the idea of having to remove everything to access the internal tank to change a pump out, but I'm also concerned with real estate in the back. I’d like to get my tanks on order here soon.

75974

75975

75976

[beeman]

Welcome and congratulations on starting your build!

Are you missing the aluminum body supports on the sides of the engine bay like in this picture?

http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/IMG_7279.jpg

[Shoeless]

Thank you Beeman.

If you are referring to the pair (one with the Infinity Box Cell attached) and these were supposed to be attached to the frame from the delivery, then yes, that would account for two of the three I'm missing. 2 down 1 to go, thank you Sir.

[wallace18]

Welcome to the GTM build group, LOL. I am up in Alachua FL and about 60% done on my GTM. Feel free to contact me if any questions come up and you are welcome to come and visit as well. Enjoy your build. TW

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Hi Sean,

Welcome to the madness! Looks like you've done your homework and have a great build plan going there! As for your questions:

1. It's been forever since we've received a virgin kit from FFR, so I don't recall what panels come attached to the chassis and which ones are boxed up separately. The ones Beeman pointed out above....I don't think those come attached to the chassis. There used to be a large half-moon shaped piece along with a large U-shaped bent piece that fits around the front hood grille opening to funnel air into the radiator, but I don't think FFR ships those parts anymore with the Gen II kits. Sorry I can't be of more help than that.

2. That's a good question. IMO, there are a couple of things to consider. Real estate is definitely a concern. One thing I would suggest is to NOT mount an external pump up on top of the aluminum panel next to the engine. Fuel pumps were meant to create pressure....not suction.....and I have heard of plenty of people who mounted their pumps up high on that aluminum and then had starting issues since the pump can not pull fuel up that far out of the tank. That means that if you're going to go external, the only real mounting position is to figure out a place for the pump directly behind the tanks . Not a ton of room to work with down there and it gets pretty complicated if you're wanting to us all AN fittings and get a pre-filter and post filter fit in there.....but we have done that a few times. Yes, it would be a bit easier to access the pump there vs having it in the tank.

The other issue is noise. External pumps are generally pretty noisy. Some more than others.

Good luck with your build!

[SteveE]

Sean welcome to the fun.

I have GTM 493, have had a good time building lots to look at and plan for as you proceed through the build with lots of help here on the forum. From your pictures I do not see the piece that closes up the front bottom under the radiator. The pieces that Beeman points out should be in another box with the rest of your sheet metal pieces. Do you have the piece that is in the top right of the driver foot box with a hole cut in it for routing your wiring through into the tunnel?

I am also waiting on a Mendy so I will say don't hold your breath for the 5 to 6 month lead time.

good luck with the build list of items looks good.

Steve

[Blast3r0]

Congrats on your kit!
Your pump(s) should depend on your power goals. One in-tank 340 or 450 should be plenty if you are staying n/a and on pump gas. The internal pumps run cooler and are quieter.
I actually have two pumps, one internal on the pass side(corvette driver side) and one mounted externally on pass side. The external pump is on the inside of the panel cubby area directly behind the tank. The cubby area on the other side houses the y fitting for both fuel lines and the return as well as my methanol pump and tank. My external pump is controlled by Holley efi so as to only come on during boost so I don't hear it run all the time.

[Shoeless]

Hi Sean,

Welcome to the madness! Looks like you've done your homework and have a great build plan going there! As for your questions:

1. It's been forever since we've received a virgin kit from FFR, so I don't recall what panels come attached to the chassis and which ones are boxed up separately. The ones Beeman pointed out above....I don't think those come attached to the chassis. There used to be a large half-moon shaped piece along with a large U-shaped bent piece that fits around the front hood grille opening to funnel air into the radiator, but I don't think FFR ships those parts anymore with the Gen II kits. Sorry I can't be of more help than that.

2. That's a good question. IMO, there are a couple of things to consider. Real estate is definitely a concern. One thing I would suggest is to NOT mount an external pump up on top of the aluminum panel next to the engine. Fuel pumps were meant to create pressure....not suction.....and I have heard of plenty of people who mounted their pumps up high on that aluminum and then had starting issues since the pump can not pull fuel up that far out of the tank. That means that if you're going to go external, the only real mounting position is to figure out a place for the pump directly behind the tanks . Not a ton of room to work with down there and it gets pretty complicated if you're wanting to us all AN fittings and get a pre-filter and post filter fit in there.....but we have done that a few times. Yes, it would be a bit easier to access the pump there vs having it in the tank.

The other issue is noise. External pumps are generally pretty noisy. Some more than others.

Good luck with your build!

Thanks for the response Shane. I’ve put in some time into planning this out as best I can, but will definitely be relying on the knowledge here.

[Shoeless]

Sean welcome to the fun.

I have GTM 493, have had a good time building lots to look at and plan for as you proceed through the build with lots of help here on the forum. From your pictures I do not see the piece that closes up the front bottom under the radiator. The pieces that Beeman points out should be in another box with the rest of your sheet metal pieces. Do you have the piece that is in the top right of the driver foot box with a hole cut in it for routing your wiring through into the tunnel?

I am also waiting on a Mendy so I will say don't hold your breath for the 5 to 6 month lead time.

good luck with the build list of items looks good.

Steve

Thanks for the welcome Sir!! I have the front bottom piece that would be below the radiator, it just happened to be on the floor just out of the pic. I’ll check on the drivers footbox when I get home. Thanks for taking a look.


Congrats on your kit!
Your pump(s) should depend on your power goals. One in-tank 340 or 450 should be plenty if you are staying n/a and on pump gas. The internal pumps run cooler and are quieter.
I actually have two pumps, one internal on the pass side(corvette driver side) and one mounted externally on pass side. The external pump is on the inside of the panel cubby area directly behind the tank. The cubby area on the other side houses the y fitting for both fuel lines and the return as well as my methanol pump and tank. My external pump is controlled by Holley efi so as to only come on during boost so I don't hear it run all the time.

Wow that sounds like quite the setup. I’d love to see some pics if you have them.

The motor I’m planning on will have a targeted HP of 625 and max torque of around 570. With those numbers any recommendations on fuel pump?

[Shoeless]

So I spent the day organizing the garage a little bit more and getting the frame up on jack stands and furniture movers to make it easier to move around the garage.

After that I spent some time reviewing the panels again. Looks like my count was off by one, so I’m only missing two panels according to the inventory sheet. My best guess is I’m short the following two panels:

- FF# 25167 Aluminum Panel, LH Door Sill, Inside
- FF# 25168 Aluminum Panel, RH Door Sill, inside

After that I turned my focus towards removing the screws and looking at the fit up in the passenger footbox as it didn’t seem quite right. After playing around a bit, I will surely need some more attention in this area before I remove all the panels for drilling and coating. Unless I’m missing something, it just all seems way off when put together at the factory.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

That's a fairly common issue. You will want to go thru and "massage" the panels into the best position before you go drilling holes in them. Issues like the one in your photo will probably require some "modifications" to get the fit right. As for coating the panels, if you're talking about powdercoating them, I would not powdercoat the interior panels.....they all get covered anyway, so not much sense in spending all that time and money prepping and powdercoating them when no one will see them on the finished car. Besides that, I've seen plenty of the powdercoating fail on aluminum panels here (falls off in big sheets)....which means if you have that problem on the interior panels after you get your carpet and vinyl installed, all of that stuff will fall off.

[Blast3r0]

Wow that sounds like quite the setup. I’d love to see some pics if you have them.

The motor I’m planning on will have a targeted HP of 625 and max torque of around 570. With those numbers any recommendations on fuel pump?
Attached is a diagram of my pump setup. I chose to do the 255 intank as it is the only size available as a direct drop in for the early c5 tanks. I'm not sure if the aluminum tanks are designed as early or late so that may change your options. 600 wheel n/a on gas would be pushing a single 255 to the ragged edge, if you ever wanted to add power or use e85 the single pump would not be enough. Id recommend at least a 340 or 440 for an n/a 600hp gas engine. 76096
76096

[Shoeless]

That's a fairly common issue. You will want to go thru and "massage" the panels into the best position before you go drilling holes in them. Issues like the one in your photo will probably require some "modifications" to get the fit right. As for coating the panels, if you're talking about powdercoating them, I would not powdercoat the interior panels.....they all get covered anyway, so not much sense in spending all that time and money prepping and powdercoating them when no one will see them on the finished car. Besides that, I've seen plenty of the powdercoating fail on aluminum panels here (falls off in big sheets)....which means if you have that problem on the interior panels after you get your carpet and vinyl installed, all of that stuff will fall off.

Hey Shane,

I got my Kooks refund check in the mail on Saturday, I’m glad a few more guys showed up to the party. Thanks for sending that out.

After stairing at everything last night for an hour or so and removing the panels and trying to install per the manual, you are spot on, looks like some “massaging” is in order before I start drilling. As for coating I remember seeing guys have issues with powder coating panels. My plan is to coat the majority of the panels with lizard skin, any heat affected areas will get the ceramic top coating, and any wheel well or bottom panels will get a bed liner type product. I’m probably erroring on the safe side as I live in S Florida and about 10 minutes to the beach so the salt air really gets to things.

[crash]

Hey Shane,

I got my Kooks refund check in the mail on Saturday, I’m glad a few more guys showed up to the party. Thanks for sending that out.

After stairing at everything last night for an hour or so and removing the panels and trying to install per the manual, you are spot on, looks like some “massaging” is in order before I start drilling. As for coating I remember seeing guys have issues with powder coating panels. My plan is to coat the majority of the panels with lizard skin, any heat affected areas will get the ceramic top coating, and any wheel well or bottom panels will get a bed liner type product. I’m probably erroring on the safe side as I live in S Florida and about 10 minutes to the beach so the salt air really gets to things.

As I have mentioned quite a few times, if you are looking for a really durable finish for the aluminum panels...have them anodized. It also makes for a great base for paint, glue, etc.

[Shoeless]

Sorry if the photos are too large. I'm still working around the damn Photobucket crap. I'm not paying $400 a year to use them again. What hosting service or posting method are you guys using that is more user friendly?

I am back from my business trip to San Diego and finally got some more time working on the passenger footbox fit up. I started working on my panel #11. I believe the formal name is the passenger footbox closeout. I was having major issues so I started here. I needed two separate bends at different angles. I like the way it turned out.

https://i.imgur.com/OH7p78G.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lSMzwAl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8B0m9j8.jpg

I then moved over to the right side of the passenger footbox. I needed to trip panel #14 to get things to fit up nicely. Now there is a small mismatch on the bottom right corner, but there is plenty of material here for the overlap.

https://i.imgur.com/GQ2yZjT.jpg

In order for me to get the right side panel of the passenger footbox to site nicely, I'll have to trim panel #15 where the black marker is (panel #13 is there just as contrast to show where I’ll trim #15). This will allow the right side panel to fit nicely against the square tubing.

https://i.imgur.com/6WRP4gE.jpg

I figured I would lay the carpet in there just as a sanity check to make sure I am not doing something stupid.

https://i.imgur.com/VIu70ra.jpg

So far, I’m pretty happy with the fit up after all the “massaging” of the panels.

[Shoeless]

So I have been fairly productive between work and Thanksgiving. I have the majority of the sheet metal all fitted, drilled, and ready for coating. My only issue is this darn passenger foot box. Nothing special in these first couple pics, just progress so far.

https://i.imgur.com/3lOpqoM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wkJFEzd.jpg

Here is the passenger foot box. It seems my panel 12 needs to be longer and taller to fit all the areas it will be riveted properly. On the forward edge and top edge I needed to add a 1/8 spacer of aluminum and on the bottom edge I needed to add 1/4 spacer of aluminum just to get everything to line up properly. Without the spacers on the top and bottom, it will not rest flush with the top where it is riveted in the future with the top closeout panel, and will not rest flush on the floor. Similar with the spacer on the front edge, without it, it will not rest flush on the front piece of aluminum. I then needed to trim my panel 14 where the small orange clamps are so the edge is flush with the diagonal square tube.

I’m a little hesitant to start drilling and make it more permanent as I’m waiting on Shane’s AC Blower Relocation Panels that I know will interact with these parts.

What are your guy’s thoughts on my need to add aluminum spacers to make everything “fit?”

https://i.imgur.com/xYgEyUA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yBCsX6Z.jpg

[wallace18]

If you are installing A/C your are doing yourself a big favor buying the recirc kit from Vraptor. Just my 2 cents worth.:cool:

[beeman]

Depends on how OCD you are Shoeless. No one is ever going to see that area, so you can patch it or silicone it. If you want to redo the panel, buy some sheet aluminum from Aircraft Spruce and make a new one. I bought some sheets from them last year for making my own panels, it was relatively cheap even with shipping. If you were close by I'd give you one.
Dave

[Shoeless]

Depends on how OCD you are Shoeless. No one is ever going to see that area, so you can patch it or silicone it. If you want to redo the panel, buy some sheet aluminum from Aircraft Spruce and make a new one. I bought some sheets from them last year for making my own panels, it was relatively cheap even with shipping. If you were close by I'd give you one.
Dave

Yea I’m pretty OCD, but more on the side of functionality. I’m just concerned that by trimming and spacing things, I may screw up some fitment/function down the path that I’m not accounting for at the moment. I like the idea of getting some new sheets and making my own replacements. I’m picking up the front close out panel from Shane as well as I’m moving the coolant tank to the rear. Maybe I’ll take the current panel from the kit and play around with it and see if I can make a replacement out of that just as a test panel.

BTW, what are you guys using to seal the panels to the frame and close up gaps? I’m not sure I want to go down the path of silicone, as I’m sure there is something better out there.

[wallace18]

IMO the GE black silicone is the best. It fill gaps and is not very noticeable against the black frame.

[Shoeless]

IMO the GE black silicone is the best. It fill gaps and is not very noticeable against the black frame.

Thanks Tom!! I wish I could have seen you finish off your first GTM build, you were making fast progress.

[LCD Gauges]

You don't waste time getting at it! Congrats again!

[Shoeless]

OK I need to vent a bit.

So I finished up my inventory some time ago and sent a nicely organized list off to FF to start working on the missing items. Here starts the issue. I was missing a number of items, but I'll hit the highlights. I was missing all carpet and vinyl pieces, and then received a box with two full sets of carpet. I call FF telling them I was sent two sets of carpet and no vinyl. They were very sure they sent a carpet and vinyl set properly. Only when I laid out the two sets of carpet, took a photo, and sent it to them did they agree to send me the missing vinyl pieces that were originally on the first shortage list I sent them. Then I come home from a business trip and I have an entire ADDITIONAL box 13E show up. I clearly pointed out in my inventory I received this box complete with no shortages. This is the absolute largest, and probably pretty damn pricy Stitched Interior Parts box. Now I have two FULL box 13E and NO vinyl pieces. I call once again, explaining the issue, and they seem dumbfounded and say they need to look into it. I offered if they send me a return shipping label and schedule a pick up, I would get the box back to them. That was about 3-4 weeks ago now and I have heard nothing. So I have blown it off as a complete loss to them as I have done everything I can offer to get them the extra box back with no action on their side.

Come to this weekend, I get to a point where I am on hold on the sheetmetal until I get some parts from Shane and make a final go ahead on the passenger foot box compartment. So I grab the battery tray. It says in the manual shift it to the driver side and I notice something that is off. The outside profile is not cutout properly. I call FF asking for a replacement and email the bottom photo. Nope, I'm told to wait til after the HVAC install and then install it. It clearly is not correct, yes I can cut it my darn self, but come on. This build is difficult enough without getting correct parts to start with.

https://i.imgur.com/Rbp1ybA.jpg

I have intentionally left names out of this, but I have been working with one individual through this whole process as recommended by other builders.

OK rant over, back to researching parts and continuing the build.

If anyone from FF is reading this and would like to discuss further, please PM me and we will discuss.

[Shoeless]

You don't waste time getting at it! Congrats again!

Thanks again Tino, I'm looking forward to integrating your system in my project!!!

[carbon fiber]

FFR has the WORST CUSTOMER SERVICE in the industry. They really need to get their sh!t together. You pay 25k and as soon as they've got the cash, you can't even get a return phone call. Total BS. I had three left headlight covers in my kit, I hate to think how much wasted money goes out their door that they don't even seem to care about. Better check your front brake hose brackets too, they've probably got stress cracks in the bends, mine did. (Too tight of a radius for the thickness of aluminum) I fabbed some up faster than I'd get someone on the phone at FFR...

[beeman]

I have to assume that FFR browses this forum daily, it is after all their forum, but I only see promotional posts for the most part.

[wallace18]

Sorry to hear about your issues. I also had stuff missing but FFR always made good on it. I will say that the GTM is a very difficult build and FFR is planning on retiring it as I overheard one time up there. I tend to not get too caught up in the minor stuff otherwise you can go crazy. Making stuff fit and work is part of every FFR build. To me that is part of the fun in the challenge. I suggest you buy a smaller aftermarket battery vs the corvette one. you will be glad for the extra room.

[Shoeless]

Better check your front brake hose brackets too, they've probably got stress cracks in the bends, mine did. (Too tight of a radius for the thickness of aluminum) I fabbed some up faster than I'd get someone on the phone at FFR...

I remember seeing those during my inventory. Cracks all over the bends. I’ll be fabing up a new set as well.

I’ve also decided to buy some aluminum sheet and try my hand at fabing up a replacement panel for the passenger foot box. I figure it’s cheap enough to buy one sheet and see what I could do on my own. Although I have limited sheet bending tools, I’m willing to give it a try. I’m too OCD to go forward with it as is.

[Fraser D]

Or make a angled patch piece as I am fairly certain that the gap that you are concerned about will not be seen once all the cover panels are in place.
Fabricating new panels is easy due to the thickness as most low cost benders will do a good job.


I remember seeing those during my inventory. Cracks all over the bends. I’ll be fabing up a new set as well.

I’ve also decided to buy some aluminum sheet and try my hand at fabing up a replacement panel for the passenger foot box. I figure it’s cheap enough to buy one sheet and see what I could do on my own. Although I have limited sheet bending tools, I’m willing to give it a try. I’m too OCD to go forward with it as is.

[Shoeless]

Or make a angled patch piece as I am fairly certain that the gap that you are concerned about will not be seen once all the cover panels are in place.
Fabricating new panels is easy due to the thickness as most low cost benders will do a good job.

I picked up a cheap bender today and waiting for my aluminum to arrive in the mail. If you look at my post 16, pics 3, 4, and 5, everywhere there is blue painters tape I have had to shim beneath the bent flange of the aluminum to set it properly. Its like FF cut it too short and narrow, and once the tabs were bent it just wouldn't work.

[Shoeless]

I spent most of the weekend working on tearing down the suspension to get ready for powder coating. I had planned on leaving them as is, but once I started thinking I wanted to replace all the bushings and ball joints, it seemed like a logical next step. Plus, seeing some other builds and how nice they turned out, I decided to do it.

I have a local powder coater who did some work on parts for my Tundra and has really stepped up their game in the local area. Years ago they were doing mostly T-Tops for boats and have now expanded their color lines and industries. Below is the color I plan on going with. I’ll be stopping by their shop this week, being slow at work prior to the holidays, and getting some final pricing. Hopefully these guys have worked with cast aluminum. In the mean time I’ll be ordering replacement PFADT bushings and all new ball joints.

https://i.imgur.com/QpMHFbs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KMhtM6S.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gc16tSW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6HKFf7p.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7WTKQnp.png

[Shoeless]

I have been making some great progress over the Christmas break and will give a more detailed post towards the end of the year. In the meantime, I got some time on the water with a coworker and his wife, and thought I would share. Its rare to get on the water in the winter time, but we made it out and sent my guests home with plenty of great eats.

I see that Infinity Box is giving 17% off any order over $1k before midnight 12/31, perfect timing for me, but the email also states they have been working on some top secrete stuff for 2018. Looks like I'll be placing my order for the items I am looking for my build and take the savings, but I wonder what they are up to with new products.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCnS6WIxig4

[wallace18]

Cool video! looks like FL.

[Shoeless]

I was hoping to get more done over my Christmas Break, but it looks like the cooler weather will hold up my coating efforts. My bed liner product wants 70 deg or higher and lizard skin wants 60 deg or higher and with the forecast not looking so nice, I’m going to put it off a bit.

Either way, here’s where I am. I got a shipment of aluminum sheet metal (to remake the passenger foot box panels that I didn’t like), Boyd Aluminum fuel tanks, and a shipment from Shane in so I have been pretty busy. Here is the panel from FF that I would have had to place shims all the way around to make it fit (blue painters tape holding the shims) and the replacement panel I made from scratch. It fits perfectly, but it did take me a bit to fab it up. My OCD wouldn’t let me use the crappy fitting FF panel.

https://i.imgur.com/xYgEyUA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zKg82zP.jpg

With the shipment from Shane, I bent up the coolant tank close out panel and started working on the belly pan aluminum. I also picked up the skid system from another builder that gave up on his build, so I got a nice deal. Everything fit perfectly.

https://i.imgur.com/RpdckZo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/v2APbeR.jpg

I put all the aluminum panels back in and set the tanks in place in hopes of mocking the area to drill the holes for the crossover tube.

https://i.imgur.com/PviVZHq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/F88ATt1.jpg

It seems like there is no “perfect” spot that the tanks fit, so does anyone have any photos of theirs sitting in place with the crossover drilled in the tunnel aluminum? I’d like to get these as close as possible to their final resting spot before I cut holes in the tunnel aluminum.

I'm hoping these cold fronts stop rolling through and I can get to coating soon :cool:

[carbon fiber]

They basically just get sandwiched in with the tank closeout panels. Most people are just making rubber strips to insulate all around and they are held in by the panels. You could weld tabs to the tanks and make mounts to the frame for more security if you wanted. Stig had his filler necks modified to change the angle so that gas would flow without splashing back and stopping the pump. Otherwise he had to pump gas really slowly. He had QRP tanks I think but the filler neck looks the same on the Boyd tanks.

[Shoeless]

They basically just get sandwiched in with the tank closeout panels. Most people are just making rubber strips to insulate all around and they are held in by the panels. You could weld tabs to the tanks and make mounts to the frame for more security if you wanted. Stig had his filler necks modified to change the angle so that gas would flow without splashing back and stopping the pump. Otherwise he had to pump gas really slowly. He had QRP tanks I think but the filler neck looks the same on the Boyd tanks.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll mock it up best as possible and cut the holes in the tunnel to make room for the crossover tube. AN fittings and hose is on order so I have a couple days to play with it.

[Shoeless]

So with the colder weather, I have put coating on hold and have been focusing on electrical. I took advantage of Infinity Box's 17% off and ordered my entire kit, Tino is checking if my EMS will be compatible with his system (so far so good - thanks Tino!!), and reading up on my AEM Infinity Engine Management System software.

Add a programmable EMS, it will be fun they say. Sure, the full manual is 376 pages, the quick start manual is 57 pages, and I picked up a couple recommended books on tuning. Once I get through all the literature I have on hand, AEM offers a 2 day "programming school" to learn how to use their system. Lots of work to add this to Shoeless GTM, but damn if it won't be f'ing sweet when I'm done.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

My tip on the crossover tube between the tanks......that area will not ever been seen again once you put your tank covers in place and both sides of the aluminum are open to the engine bay, so there's no real reason for that area to be "sealed" at all, and if you cut the holes precisely so the crossover tube fits just right, it will be a real PITA to install and remove the tanks if you ever need to. There is no compliance in an AN hose that big and that short.....so creating some extra clearance in that aluminum panel is going to be a good thing.

[Shoeless]

My tip on the crossover tube between the tanks......that area will not ever been seen again once you put your tank covers in place and both sides of the aluminum are open to the engine bay, so there's no real reason for that area to be "sealed" at all, and if you cut the holes precisely so the crossover tube fits just right, it will be a real PITA to install and remove the tanks if you ever need to. There is no compliance in an AN hose that big and that short.....so creating some extra clearance in that aluminum panel is going to be a good thing.

Thanks for chiming in on this Shane!!! I'm always grateful for the knowledge of those that have come before me and are willing to take time out of their days to help the new guys like me.

I have the hose and fittings on order and should be in by the end of the week.

It doesn't look like the weather is going to let up for this weekend, so coating is pushed off for another weekend. Plenty of time to mock up and cut clearance for the crossover hose.

[Shoeless]

The past couple days have been filled with ups and downs. I got back my suspension components back from the powder coater and they turned out EXCELLENT. The color is Silver Hammertone.

https://i.imgur.com/YjA5kwi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jb7JguT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0ARZz5K.jpg


I started to install the PFADT Bushings in the front upper control arms . It took me a bit to get the hang of it with trimming the bushings, greasing, and putting the snap rings in, but I got the hang of it.

https://i.imgur.com/cIdF0SU.jpg

Then I did a little test fit on the chassis and something was off. The suspension mounts on the driver side seem off. I went back to my instructions on the bushings as one side is thicker than the other, but I installed everything correctly. So I went to measure the frame, sure as $hit, the driver side front upper control arm mount is more towards the rear of the car than the passenger side.

I measured from the back of the rear mount, to the edge of the left forward mount and the edge of the right forward mount on both sides.

https://i.imgur.com/eQpCxfP.jpg

Passenger side measurement to the first bracket is 10 15/16 and to the second bracket is 15 3/8.

Driver side measurement to the first bracket is 10 3/4 and to the second bracket is 15 1/4.

Now I have to make a decision. Do I cut the driver side forward upper control arm mounts off, move them forward, and have them re-welded? Or do I switch the bushings around to effectively move the pin more towards the rear in hopes that they line up? I’m thinking switch the bushings around to see if I can make this work without cutting and re-welding.

What are your guys thoughts and have you seen this before?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I've never ran into that before. If you switch the bushings around, you're going to have to do both bushings so that the control arm can't slide back and forth on the bushings. How far off are the actual mounting holes from lining up with the control arm? Rather than doing a bunch of cutting and welding, I think I'd spend a few minutes with a chainsaw file and just open up the mounting holes in the chassis a bit in whatever direction they need to go.

[Shoeless]

I've never ran into that before. If you switch the bushings around, you're going to have to do both bushings so that the control arm can't slide back and forth on the bushings. How far off are the actual mounting holes from lining up with the control arm? Rather than doing a bunch of cutting and welding, I think I'd spend a few minutes with a chainsaw file and just open up the mounting holes in the chassis a bit in whatever direction they need to go.

I’ll take a couple more photos tonight holding the control arm in place. If I remember correctly the holes are about 1/8 - 3/16 off. Plus going with the PFADT setup, the pins that go through the bushings are machined to fit over the mounting brackets on the car. I’ll post up some pics tonight when I get home.

[Shoeless]

I will say I lost some sleep last night over this driver side front upper control arm mount issue. To help show the issue I came across, I took some more detailed pictures when I got home today. I set the upper control arm on the mounts as shown below.

https://i.imgur.com/95g3WWp.jpg

I lined up the rear mount and then took pics of the holes on the forward mount. As you can see the holes are significantly out of location.

https://i.imgur.com/nSGPrFz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gTLGtdj.jpg

In the following pic you can see there is a difference in the thickness of the PFADT bushings. This pic is with the bushings and the pin installed per the instructions. In order to try and alleviate the issue, I swapped the outer and inner bushing to effectively shift the location of the mounting pin.

https://i.imgur.com/yonnOHf.jpg

After swapping the bushings on the aft mounting location, the alignment of the holes on the forward pin are A LOT closer and definitely something I can work with. The forward hole lines up almost perfectly and the aft hole I will file a bit on the mount to open it up and make it work.

https://i.imgur.com/lx4nkkJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JnoGjRV.jpg

DISASTER AVERTED!!!

It still baffles my mind how these mounts could be off from the factory.

[carbon fiber]

https://i.imgur.com/JnoGjRV.jpg



It still baffles my mind how these mounts could be off from the factory.
Wait until you get to the doors.

[Roger Reid]

One of my upper control arms was bent due to the nature of it being a donor part. Each arm should measure 11" outside measurement without bushings.

[Shoeless]

Wait until you get to the doors.

I’m ok with the known issues that are on all the builds, or at least I say that right now LOL. It’s the unknowns that I havn’t seen before that have me concerned.

[Shoeless]

One of my upper control arms was bent due to the nature of it being a donor part. Each arm should measure 11" outside measurement without bushings.

That was one of the first things I checked, or at least that both control arms measured the same. Thanks for confirming the 11 inches.

[Shoeless]

It’s been some time since an update, so I figured one was in store. I have been pretty busy lately and it seems like everything I do with the GTM is taking a bit longer than planned, but it’s nice to get some progress.

I had plans for a local welder to come by the house and do some work for me, but the guy just wouldn’t return calls, so I went with my backup plan. I have a friend at work that has a tenant that works at a local collection in West Palm Beach as a master fabricator and he said he would come by. I saw pics of the owners warehouse full of old school Porsches, Ferraris, and other classics and I knew I had the right guy for the job. Not to mention Oscar just finished a Ferrari Daytona that was taken to SEMA this year, I was stoked to have him work on my GTM. Oscar came by one Saturday and made quick work of the trailer tie downs and Canton Cooling Tank bracket I got from Shane.

https://i.imgur.com/vijIkE1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qpd37uO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iTjCKqM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qr6nNFq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hbnKxUW.jpg

[Shoeless]

After welding I cleaned everything up and laid down some paint to match the frame the best I could.

https://i.imgur.com/RTevU8q.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZjUAfNU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hgewM3W.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/x02ht6M.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jzgBYBl.jpg

[Shoeless]

Now time to throw up the Canton Tank. Here’s where it gets a little interesting. So the first Canton tank I got actually had the bottom boss moved to the left out of an ideal spot. I figure no big deal maybe they just did this one differently. I returned it and asked for a replacement. I got the same damn tank back!!!! I could tell as it was returned in a Jeg’s box and not a Canton box and the two fittings were loose, as I had removed them. A quick call to Jeg’s to explain the issue, and they promptly shipped me a replacement, as I held onto the first one. The second tank has the fitting in the same spot. I decided to call Canton to ask if there were changes, but they were not much help as they didn’t recall any changes. O well, no big deal, I’ll just get some fittings to get the hoses to come up where I need them. Here is the tank sitting on the welded in bracket.

https://i.imgur.com/W9GzA6g.jpg

Now it was time to move on to coating panels. I elected to go down the path of a bed liner product as recommended from Tom (Wallace18) on the forum. So I set up a portable carport in the driveway, put my dehumidifier in, and got to work. I picked up a used Eastwood paint gun off the forum, watched a few videos, and was pretty confident on my approach. I prepped all the panels using my air grinder and scotchbrite pads, then hung them in the tent. After hanging up the prepped parts in the tent, some practice on cardboard, it was time to coat the parts. I learned quickly I could only do so many panels at once due to overspray around the edges getting on other parts. I changed my configuration in the tent to minimize overspray issues and knocked out two full days of work. I figure I have about 4-5 more days of coating parts as I will be finishing the bed liner, then spraying Lizard Skin sound and thermal protection in selected areas. Overall I am very pleased with the finish of the parts and it seems to be holding up very nicely, as I tested some areas that will be covered up later.

https://i.imgur.com/L3nRBTt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mZL3wcg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3E9DuE7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wkoIFDl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pAg8D5A.jpg

Overall, I’m pleased with the progress and can’t wait to continue this journey.

[Shoeless]

Today’s been a good day. I took delivery of my LS3 427 I had built for Shoeless GTM. The guys at Blue Print Engines really took care of me on this one. They mostly serve the Mk IV guys, but really wanted to get one of their motors into a GTM and I was glad to take them up on their offer. Should be plenty of getup and go for me for a bit :cool: Dynoed out at 625.9 HP and 594.5 ftlb of Torque

https://i.imgur.com/jrfxb6E.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uR8ilCd.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/w0No63w.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aAESAQj.jpg

[beeman]

Holy Smokes! Lot of torque from 3k rpm!
Glad they mailed it to you in a cage, it's an animal!
Should be fun

[BluePrintEngines]

I was Glad to help!! I actually just added our LS engines to the factoryfiveengines.com site!

This thing is going to be a monster!!!!

-Johnny

[Shoeless]

Holy Smokes! Lot of torque from 3k rpm!
Glad they mailed it to you in a cage, it's an animal!
Should be fun

Thanks beeman, I can't wait to get this beast installed and set up. You are right, it will be a lot of fun!!!


I was Glad to help!! I actually just added our LS engines to the factoryfiveengines.com site!

This thing is going to be a monster!!!!

-Johnny

Thanks again for all your help Johnny!!! You definitely went above and beyond to help me work through all the questions I had and making sure I was making the right choices with this set up.

To give everyone a little background on the engine decision, purchase, and what I have planned for it, here you go. I was essentially sold on the LS376/525, but I hadn't pulled the trigger just yet on it. That's when Johnny reached out from Blue Print Engines to discuss some possible options and share his enthusiasm for wanting to get in on a GTM project. I explained that I was looking for a solid power plant that I could pair up with an AEM Infinity EMS and was open to some recommendations. The reason behind this was most importantly to add traction control, but to also add all the engine protection options available. The Infinity system, as I'm sure others will do, will allow me to set safety trigger points for loss of oil pressure, fuel pressure, high transaxle temp... you name it, you can set it up to default to a safety RPM range to not damage anything. I can even set a certain RPM to shut the AC compressor off and let me get max power to the wheels. The final option I wanted for this setup was on the fly tuning using Tino's system. Sure enough, his system will run third party software, so I will be able to open up the volumetric efficiency tables and tuning software on my second screen/tablet make adjustments and get back to driving.

The point being, I wanted a straight forward, powerful engine, that I could add a twist to. The LS3 427 that Johnny recommended does come standard with computer, wiring harness, ... everything you need to install and get it running. Johnny was kind enough to delete the items I would not need, make sure it had the proper oil pan to not cause any install issues, and gave me a very reasonable price.

I can't say enough positive things about my experience with Johnny and Blue Print Engines. If you are in the market for an engine and looking for options, I recommend you give him a call.

[TheBabyBadger]

Awesome build man! Excited to see more progress!

[Shoeless]

Not much done on the car today, but lots of research on the Infinity AEM EMS I am looking to implement in Shoeless GTM. There is a Series 5 and Series 7 available. There are way more sensor inputs and outputs on the Series 7, but it also comes at a price compared to the Series 5. My number one reason behind wanting this system is to integrate traction control. The Series 5 can only support 2 wheel sensors, but the Series 7 will do all four corners of the car. The decision has been made, Series 7 it is. Now to finish my hundreds of pages of reading and learning this EMS and what it can all do for me.

BTW I finally received my last delivery from FF, my inventory is 100% complete. I took delivery of the kit 10/3/17 and here we are 4 months and 3 weeks later. Not sure if this is good by their standards or not LOL :D

[MLC_LS1]

Very cool! I like your attention to detail on the control arms.

[Shoeless]

Its been a while since an update, so I figure one was due before I head to the garage today. I have finished my first round of coating a bunch of my panels and have taken down my coating booth. So far I am extremely happy with the outcome. Here are the few rear panels attached to the frame.

https://i.imgur.com/DpumCq1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/65rIZXF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WAI5IDG.jpg

Now that the first set of front and rear panels are in place, it was time to focus on the suspension. I had been piecing together a couple pieces here and there, but now I can finally get it all on. The control arms and spindles are Silver Hammertone powder coated, PFADT Bushings, Corvette ZR1 hubs, ARP bolts, Bilstein Coilovers, and QRP rear shock mount relocation bracket.

https://i.imgur.com/v1hIG3W.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oDMOzTp.jpg

[Shoeless]

https://i.imgur.com/uPjgGG4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/72ryqCq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PKKg8pZ.jpg

The weather is finally warming up and seas are calming down, so the wife and snuck out last weekend for some fishing and we scored our limit of Golden Tilefish. Damn good eats.

https://i.imgur.com/Gtnjev9.jpg

[beeman]

Looks great, how did you choose the coil-overs?

[Shoeless]

Looks great, how did you choose the coil-overs?

Thank you Sir!!! As for the coilovers, I spent some time talking with Ted at Quick Racing Products as I was very interested in his double adjustable Genesis setup that he offers. After sharing this will be mostly a street car with an occasional track day he recommended his custom Bilstein setup. He let me know the Genesis was prime to leaking over time and unless I kept a nitrogen tank ready to top them off, I probably would not be happy with them. I agreed and went with the aluminum Bilsteins. Ted also gave me his recommendation on the spring rates. I believe they are rear 650 and 350 front, but I’ll have to double check to be 100% sure and not lead you down the wrong path.

Here’s a link to his chassis page.

http://quickracingproducts.com/html/chassis.html

[BluePrintEngines]

Getting there!!!!

[Shoeless]

Hey guys, it was a nice weekend for me to get my motor out of the crate and on the engine stand so I can spend some time mocking everything up.

https://i.imgur.com/5FDC3wm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/P1Ynj4a.jpg

I installed the AC Compressor, Bracket and hardware just to see how everything lined up. I noticed some people actually changed the location of the plug to not have to notch out the frame where it currently is in my photos. Looking at the other location, and the bracket I have, I’m not sure this would work. The secondary location that I can move the plug to on the compressor is located just to the left of the top AC Bracket pulley.

Does it look like I have the proper AC Compressor Bracket?

https://i.imgur.com/ZcJAs0N.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/C0GlAkL.jpg

[beeman]

You'll have to rotate the water pump fitting 180 degrees to clear the frame, plus you want it pointing towards the tunnel where your coolant lines will run. And rotate the intake manifold 180 degrees ;)
That is the location people typically run the ac compressor.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

It looks like you have the right AC bracket. Did you have to clearance out a bit of it to clear anything on the block?....seems like there is a bolt boss or something sticking out that needs to be clearanced for the bracket to seat tight to the block. And yeah....you will need to clearance the chassis for the AC connector. Doesn't look like you have another option.....

You actually need a whole new waterpump. That one will not fit as the thickness at the t-stat housing is more than the LS1 pump and the t-stat housing will end up tight up against the chassis. You need to get a pump for a 2000 Corvette.

If those are LS3 motor mount brackets laying there, you'll probably find that they will hit the back side of the compressor and you will have to take just a bit of material off of the mount or the compressor for the bracket to sit flat against the block.

When you turn the intake around, I'm guessing you're going to have to cut down the oil pressure boss on the valley cover. We can do that here for you if you don't want to tackle that yourself. We cut the boss off and drill and tap the remaining hole for a plug.

What crank pulley do you have? That does not look like it will work with the rest of the accessories? Does the AC compressor pulley line up with the crank pulley? I'm guessing that either the AC compressor belt will not line up or the belt for the alternator will not line up.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Oh...and don't forget to swap your valve covers around.

[Shoeless]

All great information here, time to get in the garage and start addressing these items.:cool: I'll send some pics later as an update.

Good call on the valve covers, I was wondering how difficult it would be filling the engine with oil LOL.

[TDSapp]

To bad Blue Print Engines can't set it up for the GTM if they know that is the car it is going on. That way you would not have to break the seals and have to replace gaskets.

I wonder if flipping the intake 180 affects the horse power and torque? Not knowing how the intake is made I don't know if the air\fuel path is changed much with the change of direction.

[BluePrintEngines]

To bad Blue Print Engines can't set it up for the GTM if they know that is the car it is going on. That way you would not have to break the seals and have to replace gaskets.



The engines ship from us as pictured. We're happy to upgrade to the correct vette oil pan, as Shoeless's was. The valve covers and intake are O-ring seals, no gasket breaking. Pretty painless in the end. I'm sure Shoeless can handle it! All the add on accessories should be highlighted in the GTM manual. I unfortunately don't own a GTM...so I have to point you back to FFR for things like engine mounts and water pump #'s.
85339

[Shoeless]

To bad Blue Print Engines can't set it up for the GTM if they know that is the car it is going on. That way you would not have to break the seals and have to replace gaskets.

I wonder if flipping the intake 180 affects the horse power and torque? Not knowing how the intake is made I don't know if the air\fuel path is changed much with the change of direction.

I will say that Johnny at Blue Print Engines did reach out to the guys at FF to get some information on items that would cause fitment issues. One example was the oil pan. The pan that is originally build with this engine would not fit in the GTM, so they swapped it out for me for one that will. If we were aware of the water pump, I'm sure Johnny would have swapped this for me as well. Thankfully its not a high dollar item and I can just swap it out and sell the one I have.

This is actually the first of this engine (LS3 427 Stroker) from Blue Print that will be installed in a GTM. Johnny and I knew there would be some challenges, but both of us were very excited to go down this path and make it work. I plan on giving him feedback along the way of the changes/adjustment I have to make so that Blue Print can make this more turnkey for a GTM, if they choose to do so, its entirely up to them. Thankfully I have guys like Shane, and others, to help point me in the right direction to help minimize unexpected issues.

Seems I was typing this message the same time Johnny responded. Like he mentioned, all these minor changes are VERY simple for me to handle. They provided a stout power plant, and these adjustments are easily handled on my end.

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

Not a GTM update, but my brother came to town after he returned from Afghanistan and we did some serious fishing. Enjoy :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKs6CI2c2Rg&lc=z23bfv5hpyitdneqs04t1aokgux0tzl2dmqkq34eh1e2bk0 h00410&feature=em-comments

[TDSapp]

Not a GTM update, but my brother came to town after he returned from Afghanistan and we did some serious fishing. Enjoy :)



Now your just bragging... I also took some time with the wife and we recently went fishing. This is the only result.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/26382.jpeg

[Shoeless]

Now your just bragging... I also took some time with the wife and we recently went fishing. This is the only result.

At least you didn't get skunked :cool:

I'm still in recovery mode after serious fishing and getting my boat to the mechanic for some routine work, so I have been watching some videos on engine tuning before I place the order for my AEM Infinity EMS. I'm all about learning every step of the process and did some research on available courses and content out there.

AEM offers a 2 day onsite class in CA training on their system for $750. Add flights, hotel, car, and food and I'm looking at close to $1,500.

I also ran across a company on FaceBook called High Performance Academy. They give out a live 1 hour class and then offer up their content for sale. They give lifetime access to all their videos and training and 4 years access to their online forum. Not to mention very specific content related to the AEM setup I want and a few others. I think it came out at $450 all together. I decided to pull the trigger on this and so far I am very happy with the course content. They start with the basics of EMS and then get into more advanced topics of dyno and street tuning, plus modules on turbo and launch control tuning.

I figure before I drop major $$$$ on the setup I want, I better be ready to learn it and use it to its full potential.

[LCD Gauges]

Lovin' a nice, clean build. That engine should do the trick with 625HP pretty much from 5700 to 6000 RPM.

Sorry, I'm not much of a fish fan but I'm a boating geek!

[Shoeless]

It looks like you have the right AC bracket. Did you have to clearance out a bit of it to clear anything on the block?....seems like there is a bolt boss or something sticking out that needs to be clearanced for the bracket to seat tight to the block. And yeah....you will need to clearance the chassis for the AC connector. Doesn't look like you have another option.....

You actually need a whole new waterpump. That one will not fit as the thickness at the t-stat housing is more than the LS1 pump and the t-stat housing will end up tight up against the chassis. You need to get a pump for a 2000 Corvette.

If those are LS3 motor mount brackets laying there, you'll probably find that they will hit the back side of the compressor and you will have to take just a bit of material off of the mount or the compressor for the bracket to sit flat against the block.

When you turn the intake around, I'm guessing you're going to have to cut down the oil pressure boss on the valley cover. We can do that here for you if you don't want to tackle that yourself. We cut the boss off and drill and tap the remaining hole for a plug.

What crank pulley do you have? That does not look like it will work with the rest of the accessories? Does the AC compressor pulley line up with the crank pulley? I'm guessing that either the AC compressor belt will not line up or the belt for the alternator will not line up.

Hey Shane,

I got the PN off the pulley and its PBU1117ss25, its a PowerBond Race Performance Harmonic Balancer. I did my best to throw up a straight edge from the pulley to the AC compressor and it looks pretty dang close to me. If I am looking for a misalignment to the AC Compressor would it be a very obvious misalignment or very small? Also, I don't have an alternator yet to throw on there to look. Any specific year I need to purchase or just an LS3?

Thanks!!!

[beeman]

I went with the CTS-V alternator and bracket, gets rid of that FFR welded bracket. Check out the threads on it and see what you think.

[Shoeless]

I went with the CTS-V alternator and bracket, gets rid of that FFR welded bracket. Check out the threads on it and see what you think.

Thanks beeman!!! I tried searching the other forum and it looks to be down right now. I'll have to look it up later.

[Shoeless]

I was determined to get past the first few pages of the assembly manual here lately after getting all the panels coated and refit. Over the past couple weeks putting in a little time here and there after work and a couple Saturdays, I can finally mark this as complete.

I also got the steering column prepped. I followed all the instructions and burned out the injection molded plastic holding the inner shaft in place, but it still wouldn’t come off the upper shaft. I needed to cut off enough of the inner shaft to be able to slide it up on the upper shaft to see what was in the way. I had to use the dremmel and grind a little off the upper shaft of both sides as it looked like it was mushroomed a little bit and just wouldn’t let the inner shaft off. That did the trick and the inner shaft finally came off the upper shaft.

https://i.imgur.com/ptNqNMI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/s8ukkGx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DJcVGmJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/E348qov.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yAfglRW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RzmPYTc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KYVU0rb.jpg

[Shoeless]

Dang 7 photo limit. Here are the shots of the steering shaft.

https://i.imgur.com/4aZykoJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8Msrv2s.jpg

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

So its been a while since working on the car and posting, here is what I have been busy doing :). The wife and I ran to the Bahamas for 4th of July and I landed my first Blue Marlin. Likely 300-350 lbs.


https://youtu.be/mR8pTZSN4TQ

Back to the car. I'm at the point of installing the foot pedals and there is a gap on the driver side between the frame and the pedal assembly. The passenger side and the bolts for the master cylinders fit perfectly, but the driver side doesn't. I guess I need to add some washers and get longer bolts for a nice fit up.

Have you guys ran into this? The pedal box PN I got with the kit is 340-11295 is this the right one? Not to mention the riv nut on the top side of the passenger side holes seems odd. There won't be enough room for the riv nut to upset to provide grip.

https://i.imgur.com/Q9OZkb2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HSNfImi.jpg

[Shoeless]

Dan confirmed the Wilwood Kit PN as the correct assembly for the GTM. Time to go to the fastener store.

I'm off to CT for business, returning Friday, and hope to get into the brake lines when I return. Tools should be arriving at the house while I am gone. Looking forward to doing something new on the car.

On a side note, I found a lead on the vacuum pump and bagging materials for me to tackle carbon fiber parts down the road. If I can get the price down a little, I'll have most of the expensive items I'll need to explore making some of my own parts.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

For the pedal box, I don't recall running into that before, but I see no reason why you can't just shim that gap with some washers. I would pay close attention to the clevises on the clutch pedal to make sure that they don't bind up against the back side of the pedal and bend your MC rod.....looks like you have the ones that will cause problems....

[Shoeless]

For the pedal box, I don't recall running into that before, but I see no reason why you can't just shim that gap with some washers. I would pay close attention to the clevises on the clutch pedal to make sure that they don't bind up against the back side of the pedal and bend your MC rod.....looks like you have the ones that will cause problems....

Yup, already did the mod from your other posts cautioning against it. I did learn that a rotary file on these parts is not a great idea. I had all kinds of splinters for days I had to pull out LOL.

I have been reading around and saw one other guy grind away the horizontal, what look to be like mounting boss bolt holes, on the top side of the master cylinders themselves. Looks really clean and then I'm thinking of having them powder coated to match my suspension (silver hammer tone color). Obviously removing all the internals and mask appropriately. Should turn out pretty slick.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yup, already did the mod from your other posts cautioning against it. I did learn that a rotary file on these parts is not a great idea. I had all kinds of splinters for days I had to pull out LOL.



Yes.....I have learned to NEVER use a carbide cutter on any metal parts unless I have the shop vac hose right there at the cutter as I'm cutting so all of the splinters go right from the cutter into the vac.

[Shoeless]

I came across a post some time ago about someone removing the bosses on the Wilwood Mastery Cylinders and I really liked the idea and it would give me another reason to visit my powder coater.

Took a little time to do the first one, but after that I had a process set up and had the others done in no time.

https://i.imgur.com/IMkW8ZG.jpg

I removed all the casting gates and the master cylinders ended up round within 0.010”. Yes, I’m an engineer, and yes I strive for perfection. My dad taught me if its worth doing, do it to the best of your ability.

Off to the powder coater they went, and I choose the same color as my suspension, Silver Hammer Tone. Minor delay getting the proper lube called out in the Wilwood rebuid manual, but ebay to the rescue.

https://i.imgur.com/ZS97BEh.jpg

Fully rebuilt and ready to go into the GTM. I made sure I did Shane’s clearance on the clutch side, fits perfectly with no binding, and putting in a jam nut.

https://i.imgur.com/Yi2HLGP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/j0GWaQc.jpg

I threaded the push rods in fully and it seems the pedals are a significant distance from the firewall and the break and clutch pedals don’t exactly line up. Is this typical and will there be more adjustment down the road to line them up better?

https://i.imgur.com/Vp8WH6T.jpg

[beeman]

Little touches like that will make your build stand out in the end. Nice work.
Have you made an adjustable clutch pedal stop yet?

[Shoeless]

Little touches like that will make your build stand out in the end. Nice work.
Have you made an adjustable clutch pedal stop yet?

Thank you Sir!!! Not quite the master fab skills you have, but definitely the small touches that will make it stand out.

Clutch pedal stop is on the list to do. I was planning one anyway, but Ian at Mendeola, as well as others, made a point that it is an absolute must. Ian even sent me documentation on how to set it properly :cool:

[beeman]

I saw you are doing the roof scoop, have you watched this video yet?


https://youtu.be/VyZiYZ9jk_w

https://youtu.be/VyZiYZ9jk_w

[Shoeless]

Absolutely!!!!! I have learned A LOT from these videos and found I needed to make notes along the way so I know what video to reference back to for different parts of the build. I'm up to Video 51 in the series and have com up with so many ideas.

For the roof scoop I'm wondering if I can make a full carbon fiber replacement and create a "pocket" for it to drop into and still look good. I picked up a barely used vacuum pump and some left over vacuum bag stuff from a local guy who built a new T-Top for his boat for a great price. This will be quite the upgrade if I can make it work.

[crash]

Yup, already did the mod from your other posts cautioning against it. I did learn that a rotary file on these parts is not a great idea. I had all kinds of splinters for days I had to pull out LOL.



Use a double cut tool instead of a single cut and this problem will disappear.

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

So I have been bouncing around in the garage on a few things, so I figure an update is warranted. I got my full Infinity Box setup in and have been playing around with ideas on where I really want to mount the cells. I’m not keen on the idea of laying on my back under the driver side to see the main cell, so this will likely find its way into the front compartment under the hood. Maybe incorporate some type of machined bracket to show them off nicely. I have a local machine shop that has taken interest in my build, so I may throw some work their way and see what we can do. I will say, the cheesy plastic GTM badging will not be on my car. I’m thinking custom milled Titanium or Inco. All depends on what is laying around in the shop scrap bin when I get to the part.

https://i.imgur.com/vhIYFjS.jpg

I have also been playing around with bending the brake lines and getting those in place. The 20” driver side was pretty easy, although I did do it two times to figure out a nice looking service loop. Then on to the front passenger side. This was a challenge. I picked up some 1/8 rod at Home Depot and basically made a mock up. They only had 36 inch sections, so I cut another to mimic the 60” line in the kit. Took me two attempts, but I am very pleased with the second shot at it. Perfect spacing from the frame all the way around. I looked around for fittings to see if I can put the lines in the front of the MC, but didn’t have much luck so I routed them in the top. Since I will power bleed them from the brakes, I’m not too concerned.

https://i.imgur.com/zKhCIZc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CivoIyz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6PI7b6L.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5jeRss8.jpg

[Shoeless]

https://i.imgur.com/Hp0zXnH.jpg

The manual is a little confusing to me on the routing of the rear. It looks like I need to run them down the driver side of the tunnel, then run the transaxle to the passenger side being I’m running a Mendy Stage 2 setup. Does that sound right? I'd like to at least run the rear brake lines as my Wilwood brakes should be showing up any day now. Unfortunately, I’m still waiting on that to be finished. 14 months and counting.


I got my valley cover back from Shane, thank you Sir!!!! I had to cut away some of the webbing under the intake manifold to make room for the boss and the bolt behind it, but she fits perfectly. Next step is to modify the inlet and outlet fittings from the water pump. I was given the below pic and have seen others do this, so it seemed to make sense to me.

https://i.imgur.com/et3VzqU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uUa7GTY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ie704vv.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Looking good!! One caution I see looking thru the pics. That steel T brake fitting on top of your brake MC.....expect that to leak. Not sure if we've ended up keeping any of the steel fittings like that because every single one of them has leaked so far. Always end up making a trip to NAPA to get a brass replacement.

As for the brake and clutch line routing in the tunnel, yes you will need to keep your clutch line to the pass side for the Mendy. Right now, it might seem like you have tons of room in the tunnel, so you can route the brake lines where ever you like. I would try to keep them tucked in as tight to the LH side of the tunnel as possible. By the time you get your coolant tubes, heater hoses, AC hoses, floor vent ducts, wiring, shift cables, etc...routed thru there, and some insulation for the hot parts, you'll find that you need all the space you can get. You should be able to route the clutch and brake line together all the way back to the RH side of the engine, so you can secure both lines with a single screw/rivet and some of the smaller brake line clamps.

[Shoeless]

Thanks Shane!!!! Its great having your support along the way between FB, emails, and the forums. Your knowledge and willingness to help guys like me, really helps me along the way.

I'll take your advice and change out those steel fittings. I'd hate to get this all together just to have it leak later. I'm guessing this will be the same for all the steel fittings along the lines to the back of the car as well. Off to the parts store. I will say all the local parts store workers have taken massive interest in the build as well. They all start with "what car are you working on." I show pics and their interest peeks :cool:

[Jake From State Farm]

Dan confirmed the Wilwood Kit PN as the correct assembly for the GTM. Time to go to the fastener store.

I'm off to CT for business, returning Friday, and hope to get into the brake lines when I return. Tools should be arriving at the house while I am gone. Looking forward to doing something new on the car.

On a side note, I found a lead on the vacuum pump and bagging materials for me to tackle carbon fiber parts down the road. If I can get the price down a little, I'll have most of the expensive items I'll need to explore making some of my own parts.

I don’t know if you ordered already, but harbor freight sells a 3cfm vacuum pump for about $150 before coupons that works well for most small to medium sized layups. All you need is to get a few adapters and vacuum hose to convert it from automotive to composite use. Alternatively, you can buy a venturi pump for about $100 that runs off a shop compressor. When I was on a racing team in college, we used uscomposites.com for most materials not provided by sponsors. You may find them to be a lot more affordable than some of the big name distributors and we never had a problem with quality.

If you want to save additional money, don’t buy prepreg. You can make your own at home with a cheap roll of painter’s plastic. Put a layer of plastic down on a flat surface. Put your composite fabric down on top of that. Make sure the plastic is a few inches larger than the fabric on all sides. Pour the resin mix onto the fabric along its center. Put a second sheet of plastic over the fabric/resin. Take a squeegee and work the resin into the fabric, pushing all air bubbles to the edges of the plastic. Now you have homemade prepreg.

If you want to really make your parts pop, consider playing with carbon/Kevlar mixed weave. You’ll get a colored Kevlar weave in one direction and the classic black carbon weave in the other direction. It looks sharp when done right.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

The steel T fittings are the ones we've had the most trouble with....and I don't think it's something that is going to not leak, and then start leaking later on.......they leak right off the bat and in my experience it doesn't matter how tight you torque them, they just keep leaking. After about the 3rd one in a row that we had leak, we don't even install the steel ones anymore to try them....we just automatically replace them with brass.

[Shoeless]

I don’t know if you ordered already, but harbor freight sells a 3cfm vacuum pump for about $150 before coupons that works well for most small to medium sized layups. All you need is to get a few adapters and vacuum hose to convert it from automotive to composite use. Alternatively, you can buy a venturi pump for about $100 that runs off a shop compressor. When I was on a racing team in college, we used uscomposites.com for most materials not provided by sponsors. You may find them to be a lot more affordable than some of the big name distributors and we never had a problem with quality.

If you want to save additional money, don’t buy prepreg. You can make your own at home with a cheap roll of painter’s plastic. Put a layer of plastic down on a flat surface. Put your composite fabric down on top of that. Make sure the plastic is a few inches larger than the fabric on all sides. Pour the resin mix onto the fabric along its center. Put a second sheet of plastic over the fabric/resin. Take a squeegee and work the resin into the fabric, pushing all air bubbles to the edges of the plastic. Now you have homemade prepreg.

If you want to really make your parts pop, consider playing with carbon/Kevlar mixed weave. You’ll get a colored Kevlar weave in one direction and the classic black carbon weave in the other direction. It looks sharp when done right.

Thanks for the tips Jake. I was able to pick up a nice pump barely used from a guy that made a new hard top for his boat. Came with all kinds of fittings, release film, fleece, release wax, various sand papers, ...the list goes on for about $250. So I’m happy on that. I have some thoughts on parts I’d like to either make molds and vacuum bag or simply skin. I’ll find out down the road if I’m crazy or unique in what I choose to do.

One thought is take the front fiberglass fender vents I picked up from a guy in Canada that didn’t use them and make my own carbon fiber ones. Same for the roof scoop, but I need to figure out a way to integrate it in the roof that doesn’t look ugly. Who knows, I have a ton of work to do before then so I’ll let the ideas simmer.

[Jake From State Farm]

Practice with fiberglass sheets if you haven’t vacuum bagged before. They’re dirt cheap compared to carbon and they more or less behave the same way depending on the fabric weight and weave type.

[Shoeless]

I love coming home to new deliveries :cool:

https://i.imgur.com/qfkNRHW.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

How are your safety-wire skills?.....those rear hats are lots of fun!

[Shoeless]

How are your safety-wire skills?.....those rear hats are lots of fun!

We’re about to find out :cool: I will say I work at Pratt and Whitney and can have my Engine Assembly Center buddies give me a crash course or give them a 6 pack and have them swing by the house. It would be nice to Bergen cable them, but I’m not investing in that tool.

[Shoeless]

I spent yesterday focusing on the driver side front brake setup and was blown away on how nicely it turned out. Thankfully someone in town had loctite 271, as called out in the Wilwood instructions, for assembling the hat to the rotor. Enjoy!!

https://i.imgur.com/wAheHbw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZKG6nSX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1USB91Q.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9RBTuUI.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Looks sharp!! Did you also have to safety-wire them?

[Shoeless]

Looks sharp!! Did you also have to safety-wire them?

Thanks Shane!!!

My .023 Dia. Safety Wire delivery is delay due to the storm in the Carolinas. Supposed to be delivered today or tomorrow, we'll see.

[Shoeless]

I have all the rotors safety wired up, the rears were fun, and I went to put the rears back on the car for another fit check. I noticed the e-brake pad seems to have a lot of play in either direction that I push it (pic 2 and 3 below, I pushed it left and up and right and down).

Is the e-brake pad supposed to be free floating this much behind the rotor? And with the e-brake cylinder (adjustment cylinder) backed off as much as possible I have some rub and resistance when trying to spin the rotor. Is this correct?

https://i.imgur.com/CDTkDgb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uVd7Qvp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TYJsZ5E.jpg

[Shoeless]

I also just realized the e-brake pads from passenger to driver side don't match in construction and amount of pad left. Must have been pulled from two different cars when I got my donor kit. Time for new e-brake pads :)

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I would say the free movement of the ebrake shoes is normal so they can self-center inside the drum. As far as resistance to spinning the rotor, I'd say if it's just a little bit of resistance from the shoe rubbing the drum, that would be ok....but if you're talking about it taking a pretty good amount of force to spin them.....that's not normal. Make sure your ebrake cables aren't hung up and not fully releasing or the adjuster is somehow not seated in the shoe where it needs to be?

[Shoeless]

I would say the free movement of the ebrake shoes is normal so they can self-center inside the drum. As far as resistance to spinning the rotor, I'd say if it's just a little bit of resistance from the shoe rubbing the drum, that would be ok....but if you're talking about it taking a pretty good amount of force to spin them.....that's not normal. Make sure your ebrake cables aren't hung up and not fully releasing or the adjuster is somehow not seated in the shoe where it needs to be?

I'm leaving the cables off for the moment while I get the pads installed and adjusted to make sure they are not actuating the cylinder inadvertently. I definitely have something up with the driver side. It would spin nicely, but then seem to get "stuck" and would require more force. I'm going to get new pads and retaining springs and give this another try.

Thanks for the input Shane!!

[Shoeless]

I got off work a little early today so I spent some time running the rear brake lines from the master cylinder. I know I'm likely making it more difficult than it has to be, but I love being able to tuck the lines up close to the frame and out of the way.

BTW I'm still waiting on my Mendy, and the latest email from Ian was not too promising. My question is, if running the Mendy transaxle, do you guys run the lines down the driver side of the tunnel and then cross over to the passenger side closer to the engine bay? I'm thinking of running the trans clutch line down into the tunnel on the driver side and then following the cross tube in the bottom of the tunnel starting in the third pic. The only bad thing is I don't want to start running those lines until I have the trans to mock up the full length of the run for the clutch line.

https://i.imgur.com/pCrtVAG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HogzmIx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zukYELl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Ir0l6iA.jpg

[beeman]

Beautiful bends! I'd hate to see you cover those up! ;)

[Shoeless]

Beautiful bends! I'd hate to see you cover those up! ;)

I know, right :p. I figure I'll have plenty of items running through the tunnel so any room I can make, the better off I'll be.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I know, right :p. I figure I'll have plenty of items running through the tunnel so any room I can make, the better off I'll be.

And you are very right in thinking that way! You'll need all the room you can get. Yes, that short cross tube below the narrowest part of the tunnel is where we normally split the brake lines and also have the clutch line cross over from the driver's side to the pass side for the Mendy clutch.

Beautiful work!

[Shoeless]

And you are very right in thinking that way! You'll need all the room you can get. Yes, that short cross tube below the narrowest part of the tunnel is where we normally split the brake lines and also have the clutch line cross over from the driver's side to the pass side for the Mendy clutch.

Beautiful work!

Excellent, thanks Shane!!

[SteveE]

Looking good, I actually took the clutch line and ran it along the cross brace that runs from the drivers side to the passenger side of the tunnel from front to back. For mine with the Mendy it went to just in front of the passenger side front lower suspension mount. Keep up the good work and good luck with your transaxle.

Steve E.
GTM #493 delivered Dec 2016
Go cart Sep 2018
Dyno Sep 2018

[Shoeless]

Thanks SteveE!!!

Rear brake lines completely run. Perfect spacing all the way around with not a single point of the lines or fittings touching the frame. That took some time, but the lines are all tucked out of the way making room of other essentials.

https://i.imgur.com/kSnR6jl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/87YntOw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kXfRE59.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qYKFs9K.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/f9Talgt.jpg

[Shoeless]

Plus checked the braided line (18" lines) to the caliper through the suspension travel. All is well so far.

https://i.imgur.com/OsxTHcD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TY3m7ll.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tFnIlMT.jpg

[Shoeless]

I played around with more suspension and steering today. I installed a rear bump steer kit I just got in and then moved to the front.

https://i.imgur.com/9kDHKyR.jpg

I started to check the front bump steer kit and the travel in both directions on the steering rack. I figured I would need to trim some of the threads off to make it work, but noticed through the travel on the steering rack the driver side seems to stick out more. I figured I would level the frame in the front and take a bunch of measurements before I started cutting. The lower suspension mounts seems like a logical point to start.

https://i.imgur.com/YYB79xE.jpg

After taking a bunch of measurements, centering the steering rack, threading the bump steer kits all the way in, and then installing in the spindles, here is what it looks like.

https://i.imgur.com/eiNqM8d.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ztxeOKP.jpg

I guess I'll be trimming more off the driver side, than the passenger by a significant amount.

Also, I noticed the threads are the same on both sides of the bump steer kit provided by FFR. It seems counterintuitive to me. Shouldn't you be able to loosen the jam nuts, rotate the middle black section to get toe in toe out, and then lock it down with the lock nuts to adjust?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

That seems about right for cutting off the rack threads. You do always have to cut more off of one side. And yes, that is normally the way things work on the "turnbuckle" to adjust toe, but as you noticed, this does not work that way. You can lock down the outer nut and then will need to loosen the inner nut and use pliers or vice-grips to rotate the inner tie rod to adjust your toe. Just make sure before you take it in for an alignment, cut the boot clamps on the inner tie rod ends and I normally take some silicone spray lube, break the "bond" between the boot and tie rod end and stuff the spray can straw down in there and give a few sprays of lube so that when the tech is adjusting the inner tie rod end, it's not twisting/tearing the rack boots.

[Shoeless]

Thanks Shane.

I ended up cutting 1/4" off the passenger side and 1" off the driver side today. Now I have a decent starting point. Here is what they look like threaded all the way in on both sides.

https://i.imgur.com/MdD19cw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/R2qiFwO.jpg

[Shoeless]

I had my neighbor and his son come over this past weekend and help drop in the LS3 for its first test fit up. We found about 4-5 ways that wouldn't work with my chain hoist and finally opted to use the lift plate that I picked up some time ago. Its really cool having his son over as he has been watching the build since the day my kit was delivered. He is starting to pick up the car lingo and sharing it with his friends on what he his helping out with.

https://i.imgur.com/kNIugJD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/puWjLKb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4XdMxaV.jpg

I also picked up the Braille battery box holder just to see how I would want to use it. Looks like I can trim the regular battery panel and just mount it in the same spot I was thinking of.

https://i.imgur.com/8N7asb3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TYRgEWP.jpg

[crash]

Good work!

Although I think those axles are a bit large! :)

https://i.imgur.com/8N7asb3.jpg

[Shoeless]

Good work!

Although I think those axles are a bit large! :)

https://i.imgur.com/8N7asb3.jpg

LOL that's actually the drive shaft from my 07' Tundra. Long story, but the lesson was don't take off the yolk nut to change the support bearing. Some asshat at Toyota depressed the nut to much to lock it in place and destroyed the threads when I was taking it off. Therefore I got a new drive shaft for the truck :mad:

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

I was able to get in the garage a little bit this weekend. I installed the Infinitybox Master Cell with Shane's mounting plate, mocked up some tubing for the expansion tank, and started to kick around placement of other electronics. The cardboard box is simulating the AEM Infinity EMS Series 5 and may end up on the bottom of the stereo closeout panel Shane makes. I think I saw this somewhere, but can't remember. Really depends how long the wiring harness turns out. And the rear power cell may end up on the driver side by the expansion tank. This should make room for a fuel filter and cold air intake on the passenger side. More mock up to continue.

https://i.imgur.com/03QnBUK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fLlqad0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lRfsGzw.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Personally, I would avoid mounting much of anything inside the tunnel if you don't have to. Once the car is together, if you would mount that AEM box to the bottom of the stereo close-out and would ever have to access that down the road......it would be extremely difficult. Any relays or other components like that I try to get over into the driver's side or passenger side footwell area so you could at least get to it if you needed to without taking stuff apart. The temps inside the tunnel also get very hot.....so one more reason to avoid mounting components in there if you don't have to.

[Shoeless]

Personally, I would avoid mounting much of anything inside the tunnel if you don't have to. Once the car is together, if you would mount that AEM box to the bottom of the stereo close-out and would ever have to access that down the road......it would be extremely difficult. Any relays or other components like that I try to get over into the driver's side or passenger side footwell area so you could at least get to it if you needed to without taking stuff apart. The temps inside the tunnel also get very hot.....so one more reason to avoid mounting components in there if you don't have to.

Good point on avoiding the tunnel. I guess I really need to pull the trigger on my AEM setup to see what kind of length the plug and play harness has. I have one open question out there on a separate forum about configuring the traction control. My logic seems solid on how I want to lay it out, but I'd hate to make a $5k investment just to find out it won't work as planned.

I'd like to avoid the engine compartment due to the heat, but may not be able to pull it off without serious mods to the wiring harness. I could probably move the Infinity Box power cell to the driver side and mount the AEM box either horizontal or vertical where the standard LS1 harness bracket is.

Anybody got any info on Injector Dynamics Fuel Filters? Looks to be a solid unit, it better be for what they want for them.

http://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Good point on avoiding the tunnel. I guess I really need to pull the trigger on my AEM setup to see what kind of length the plug and play harness has. I have one open question out there on a separate forum about configuring the traction control. My logic seems solid on how I want to lay it out, but I'd hate to make a $5k investment just to find out it won't work as planned.

I'd like to avoid the engine compartment due to the heat, but may not be able to pull it off without serious mods to the wiring harness. I could probably move the Infinity Box power cell to the driver side and mount the AEM box either horizontal or vertical where the standard LS1 harness bracket is.



Here is something I came up with for another customer.....keeping stuff up and out of the way to create room for more stuff.....with the LS7 dry sump tank, things get pretty crowded, but no reason this can't be used for any GTM build:

http://vraptorspeedworks.com/crate-ecuisis-powercell-mounting-bracket/

[Shoeless]

Here is something I came up with for another customer.....keeping stuff up and out of the way to create room for more stuff.....with the LS7 dry sump tank, things get pretty crowded, but no reason this can't be used for any GTM build:

http://vraptorspeedworks.com/crate-ecuisis-powercell-mounting-bracket/

Now that's what I'm talking about!!!! That will solve everything I think I'm looking to do (ISIS, AEM ECU, and high end Fuel Filter setup). I'll pull some specs on size of the ECU and Injector Dynamics fuel filter and reach out via email.

You are the man Shane!!!

[jamesfr58]

Shoeless

This is how I mounted my ECM as you will note the cold air intake has been modified as the FFR will not fit on either side. The Infinity Box Power Module is mounted on the other side on the back panel, but may relocate up front to the area next to the surge tank as there is enough room.

That is really a great idea Shane came up with to mount ECU and Power Module could use it now if wiring not already pulled in for the car. I agree with you Shane has some very good ideas.

975739757497575

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

I've been bouncing around a little bit after ordering all kinds of goodies over the holiday. I got in the AEM Infinity Series 5 ECU, Wideband O2 Sensors (one connects directly to the ECU via an onboard O2 controller and the second will run through the CAN bus), Vehicle Dynamics Module, and a few other goodies. I'm still waiting on the wiring harness from AEM and had to exchange some fittings for the fuel filter.

I decided to go with an Injector Dynamics F750 fuel filter, which in my opinion is pure artwork and will be displayed accordingly. The front window is a delta P indicator that will give you the feedback you need to know when the fuel filter needs to be changed. I decided to go with the optional block on the right side with a Bosch Fuel Pressure and Temp Sensor. Tap into the Infinity system and it will monitor everything for me. It will also take into consideration the readings when calculating everything needed to control the motor.

https://i.imgur.com/IsODTRZ.jpg

For the Vehicle Dynamics Module, the instructions state to place it as close to the center of the vehicle and as low as possible. I bent up some aluminum and found a spot right in the tunnel. The black mark on the blue tape marked the center front to back, so I pretty happy with its location. I can also access this spot without to much hassle in case it need to be checked on in the future. This will give 3 axis accelerometer, 3 axis pyrometer, and GPS location for track mapping and GPS speed.

https://i.imgur.com/MOpkEvM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/eavpfB4.jpg

I also took some time to mark up all the inputs and outputs on the Infinity Box so I can start to run some wiring.

https://i.imgur.com/3kiKE5j.jpg

[Shoeless]

As I'm working through the approach I want to go with on the radiator, thanks for all the feedback in my other post, I decided to pull the accumulator out and see where the hoses will allow me to mount it. I tried all kinds of routings for the hoses, and it just seemed like there was a lot of force in the hoses to not allow it to rest against the front frame bar the instructions want you to place it in.

I really had to force the accumulator into a vertical position here.

https://i.imgur.com/g9TTSeW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aiCKkhP.jpg

I then took the short straight tube off the AC unit, which was a pain being installed, but I got it loose. I still had to force the accumulator vertical, so not too happy here either.

https://i.imgur.com/iPZrigv.jpg

Then I looked back over some others posts, and the accumulator seems to sit nicely in this location. I'll need to bend the aluminum tubing coming into the accumulator to get it away from the steering rack, but I think this will be its final location. I'm hoping the AC tubing can be bent just like the brake lines. What are you guys thoughts about bending these lines? Do it cold or add some heat?

https://i.imgur.com/VI7yozm.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

That aluminum is very soft. I normally just bend it by hand....as in just grab it and use my hands to bend it whatever way it needs to go....gently and across a good length of tube so it doesn't try to kink in one spot. Yeah...with the large hose from the AC unit over to the accumulator, no matter what you do it seems that either the large short hose or the hose from the compressor is putting pressure on the accumulator....but not much you can do about it......it is what it is.

[Shoeless]

That aluminum is very soft. I normally just bend it by hand....as in just grab it and use my hands to bend it whatever way it needs to go....gently and across a good length of tube so it doesn't try to kink in one spot. Yeah...with the large hose from the AC unit over to the accumulator, no matter what you do it seems that either the large short hose or the hose from the compressor is putting pressure on the accumulator....but not much you can do about it......it is what it is.

Thanks for the pointers on the bending the tubing. This will be a little more risky for me than the brake lines, those were $5 each for practice :), I'll definitely take it slow and steady on the AC line over its length.

[Shoeless]

Been doing a few odds and ends on Shoeless GTM. Covered the gas tanks in gold reflective film and figured out my front brake lines, from my other post, with 90 deg fittings and 18" lines.

I also installed the ebrake handle and cables and just don't like how it looks. Been kicking around the idea of going with an electric ebrake setup to completely get away from the handle cable system all together. I will likely need to make some room in the tunnel by ditching the insulation I currently have around my coolant tubes and going with some other form of insulation. Still haven't decided on the final path, I'll need to stare at it a bit while working some other items.

https://i.imgur.com/5thmGvv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2cV4Wkr.jpg

Nice S bends in the front brake lines now.

https://i.imgur.com/ZIEyizE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uAqLkza.jpg

[beeman]

When you say you don't like how your e-brake looks, do you mean appearance or function? I didn't care for the C5 handle, it's enormous.
In a car like this, I like the idea of a mechanical e-brake 'just in case'... The electric actuated e-brake is fine if you're just cruising the car shows...IMHO...

[Shoeless]

When you say you don't like how your e-brake looks, do you mean appearance or function? I didn't care for the C5 handle, it's enormous.
In a car like this, I like the idea of a mechanical e-brake 'just in case'... The electric actuated e-brake is fine if you're just cruising the car shows...IMHO...

I think a little of both, appearance and function. The handle is way to big and the routing of the donor cables isn’t to my liking. I saw you went with a smaller handle, which may appease the appearance, but I’ll definitly need to do something about the way the cables run. I like what you did w the Wilwood kit and may end up doing something similar.

Just kicking around ideas at the moment and seeing what others think. Plus the one electronic version I see clearly states don’t mount anywhere with increased temps.

[jamesfr58]

Shoeless, I had same issue and relocated the condenser to approximately the same location you are looking a as the final resting position. It sticks up through the cutout o the panel and I will make a removable cover to go over the condenser and seal the front area from the radiator compartment. Just and idea showing the condenser in another location without interfering with the wiper motor.

995539955499555

[jamesfr58]

I did not like the e-brake handle either and go rid of it, installed an e-stop e-brake system instead. The pictures below show the mounting in the bottom of the tunnel, you can see the actuator and the box connecting the actuator to the two e-brake cables. It cleans up the center console and after testing work extremely well. I have to modify the center condole to except my 7” pad to operate the Infinity Box System and it looks a lot better without the e-brake handle.

995569955799558

[Shoeless]

Hey James,

Thanks for the reply on the condenser and the e-brake setup. It was after reading up on your build that gave me the idea of the e-brake setup. Did you go with 2 layers of heat wrap on the coolant tubes? First layer of header wrap and then second layer similar to this silver covering?

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1828

or

https://www.delcity.net/store/ThermaShield-Wrap-w:-Adhesive-Strip/p_818152.h_818153

I'll go double check the wiper motor location and make sure mounting the condenser on the side won't interfere. Thanks for the heads up.

Sean

[jamesfr58]

Sean,

You are correct, I put one layer that was header wrap on the piping then covered it with aluminized heat reflecting tape to seal the ceramic fiber header tape and help reflect heat sink into the piping from the tunnel. I figured anything I can to limit the amount of heat being generated in side the tunnel and reflect as much heat off equipment and piping as it moves down the tunnel from the front to back would be a good thing. The interior walls of the tunnel are lined with Cool It Suppressor Acoustical & Heat Control Mat. It should help in keeping the interior noise level down as well as the heat sink from tunnel to interior down.

[jamesfr58]

Here is a picture of all the lines installed in the tunnel, all radiator and heater supply and return lines are insulated with ceramic header tape and covered with the aluminized tape and the A/C supply and return lines to and from the compressor are insulated with the tar like cold insulation they sell for A/C lines the wrapped in the gold 800 deg. Plus reflective tape to protect the cold insulation.

99560

[Shoeless]

Very clean work James!!! Thanks for taking the time to let me know your approach and posting pics.

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

Its been a bit since an update, so I figured I need to post something. I figured I needed to create a list and just get my butt in the garage this weekend. So that's where I started, create the list of items I have sitting in front of me.

https://i.imgur.com/LnCDkVi.jpg

The first couple things I knocked off was to install the fuel level sensor on the Lingenfelter Fuel Pump, cut the factory hose and throw on my AN adapter. I originally purchased the quick connect fitting and thought I would use the factor hose, but it wasn't to my liking. So I'll pick up a barbed AN fitting so I can start to make some fuel lines. I then moved over to my Canton cooling tank. I have the larger flat tank that I picked up that I'm using. I like the ease of access to the location of the cap with this tank so I went this way. I cut the bottom bracket off and picked up a tap to chase the threads as they didn't look too clean to me. I'll probably finish up the fittings tomorrow and mount the tank.

I got my AC Accumulator Bracket back from the powder coated and got it all mounted up today. This location is now tucked up and out out of the way making room for other electrical stuff that will go up front.

https://i.imgur.com/4EclcJo.jpg

I then shifted my attention to the InTouchNet from Infinity Box and working on layout of other items in the passenger foot box.

https://i.imgur.com/vkTmcqE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DZHOowX.jpg

I also visited my buddy Gary that owns Southeast Machine on Friday to talk about a few nice touches that I have been kicking around in my head lately. I worked with him on my latest project at Pratt & Whitney and the capability of his shop is grow leaps and bounds. Multiple 3, 4, and 5 axis milling machines, bar feeder,... you name it, his shop is outfitted with it. I mentioned my GTM a while back and his eyes perked up with excitement. He is totally stoked to jump in and help me make some custom pieces for my build. My first thought, although I won't need them for some time, is to ditch the cheesy plastic GTM badges and get some made out of titanium :cool:. It just so happens he has some 1/4 thick pieces in his scrap bin at the moment, so I told him go ahead a pull that out and we'll do some concept badges in aluminum and then cut some nice ones in titanium.

[RumRunner]

Ha! I love lists. I think for the GTM lists are a great way to keep motivation high. Every night or weekend just cross one item off. Eventually you're done.

I included a picture I just took this evening of the "GTM list" board in my garage. Still hanging even though I finished the car 5 years ago and sold it last summer!

Keep up the good work!

-Michael

101446

[Shoeless]

Ha! I love lists. I think for the GTM lists are a great way to keep motivation high. Every night or weekend just cross one item off. Eventually you're done.

I included a picture I just took this evening of the "GTM list" board in my garage. Still hanging even though I finished the car 5 years ago and sold it last summer!

Keep up the good work!

-Michael

101446

Thanks Michael. I think I need a bigger list LOL. BTW what software did you use to create your wiring diagram from your build site? Once I get to wiring, I want to be able to create something like this for my GTM. Going with an AEM Infinity Engine Management System and ditching the stock GM computer will give me tons of functionality, but I need to lay out everything.

[RumRunner]

For the wiring diagram I used Microsoft Visio - which I no longer have access to (not even sure if it is a Microsoft Product anymore) so I couldn't modify it if I wanted to. If anyone wants the original visio file, let me know. I usually send folks the PDF version.

-Michael

[Shoeless]

Thanks Mike, I'll have to take a look into that.

[jamesfr58]

Hey Shoeless, Microsoft still has Visio as one of their programs. I use it quite frequently to make process flow diagrams and P&ID's of a refinery process for our engineering company. IT is a great little an simple program that is loaded already with the symbols for electrical and may other things. Much simpler to use the Auto CAD or on of their associated programs which we also used when appropriate. I think you would like the program and what it is capable of doing.

[Shoeless]

I was able to spend most of yesterday in the garage focusing on my list of near term items to knock out. First up was getting all the plumping sorted out on the Canton expansion tank. I guess on older models, the location of the bung on the bottom of the tank dropped right between the fuel tank and the frame, but I guess they changed it somewhere. No worries, a few fittings, tape, and pipe sealant and I knocked this off the list.

https://i.imgur.com/HLkQmEd.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/i3boXRU.jpg

I then moved on to mounting the Injector Dynamics fuel filter, AEM Series 5 ECU, and Rear Power Cell. First let me give some credit where it is due. Shane has a design for a bracket he made to hold a puke tank for a dry sump setup on an LS7 that would work for my desired setup with a few modifications. After a few mockups, Shane cranked out the bracket for me and its perfect. I did a test fit on the bench and then moved to the car. Trying to think forward on the build a bit, I'll likely leave this in bare metal for a bit. Ultimately it will end up either powder coated in silver hammer tone like a lot of other parts on my ride or I'll carbon fiber skin it for a nice touch.

I am blown away how well this turned out, thanks again Shane for helping make my GTM completely unique.

https://i.imgur.com/Mbg0BDl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6LnsOAB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7EXJuWM.jpg

[beeman]

Very nice! We are extremely lucky to have Shane as part of the FFR community, he has solved a lot of issues and shortcomings with the kit, and has developed options that take the GTM to the next level. And he's always friendly and willing to help, even when he's not making a sale.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Thanks for the kind words, guys!! I really appreciate it! Glad I could be of service to you all. If there's one thing I've learned after 30+ GTM builds, it's that there just isn't a whole lot of room in the engine bay to mount a ton of "extra" components......so sometimes you have to get a bit creative to fit as much "stuff" in as little space as possible while trying to keep everything both halfway accessible and away from main sources of heat.

[jamesfr58]

Looks really good, Shane did a great job figuring it out. I know we all appreciate his help, advise and ability to design something that really works in the tight spaces of the GTM.

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

I was able to score a copy of Visio Professional on my work computer, so I guess I'll be bringing that lap top home to start working on the wiring layout. I spent a little time poking around it last weekend to learn the software and this is going to be one long project to lay everything out. I also plan to add the engine wiring harness from AEM to this layout as there are several channels that are open on the Infinity Series 5 ECU for expansion from the stock and I have plans for nearly every open channel. The AEM will also have its own CAN bus that I'll be tapping into for a few expansion features.

I got my brake brackets from Shane a little ago and sent them off to be powder coated and then I laid down some black on the connecting rods.

https://i.imgur.com/kjfsGfH.jpg

I also put in a cross tube for wiring to keep the tunnel sealed off.

https://i.imgur.com/Q7M4PhI.jpg

I got in a nice shipment from Summit this week as they were running their typical $51 off if you spend $500 specials. I typically keep a running list and then when the sale hits, I can at least save a little coin. I mock up the steering wheel after installing the gas pedal and decided to pull out the interior and check the mock up of the AEM CD5 and CD7 digital dashes. Looks like the CD7 will actually fit perfectly. I need to find my column cover and throw it on there and see how it looks, but all indications point to me being able to going with the larger 7 in screen. I'm super stoked about that.

https://i.imgur.com/ENwx6BI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GhoOa1i.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/x9p5Ueu.jpg

I then shifted over to working on the radiator install. For those that remember, my Dewitts wasn't quite fitting level left to right. I got that all worked out by trimming the rubber bushing, cutting down the bracket on the frame, and trimming the bottom tab on the radiator itself. Now all I need to do is cut up the angled aluminum piece and have it welded.

I do have a question on the ebrake handle. Is this thing supposed to be so dang close to the frame for the tunnel? When I put the center interior piece in place it was seriously rubbing it. I may need to find a way to move this outboard a bit. Have you guys ran into this and how did you deal with it.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I do have a question on the ebrake handle. Is this thing supposed to be so dang close to the frame for the tunnel? When I put the center interior piece in place it was seriously rubbing it. I may need to find a way to move this outboard a bit. Have you guys ran into this and how did you deal with it.

As crude as it sounds....yes, I see this with all of the Ebrake handles....and the fix is to grab the handle and pull it away from the dash until it bends the handle just enough to create the desired clearance.

[Shoeless]

As crude as it sounds....yes, I see this with all of the Ebrake handles....and the fix is to grab the handle and pull it away from the dash until it bends the handle just enough to create the desired clearance.

Glad its an easy solution LOL.

[Shoeless]

I was very happy this evening to drop in my Dewitts radiator after much thought and effort to get it sitting just perfectly in the opening. When I fist dropped it in when i received it, it wasn't sitting level left to right in the car and I knew I would have to make a bracket to mount it. After some thought and a game plan, I ended up cutting some of the bracket on the driver side away and cutting some fo the material off the radiator bracket. Going back and fourth between the two and lots of test fits, it finally sat perfectly level left to right and then needed to make a bracket.

I started with some simple angled aluminum, cut to length, made some slots to clear the other welds and the name badge, and finished it off with a nice brushed finish.

https://i.imgur.com/zmTHyKS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NyQjztg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9Oug5Ps.jpg

I then headed over to my welder who was kindly enough to hook me up after work hours. He mainly works on stainless and aluminum in the boat industry, so this was no problem for him.

https://i.imgur.com/TaVgfox.jpg

Then for the final fit check, and BAM she fits perfectly!!!!!

https://i.imgur.com/1DOm8sS.jpg

[Shoeless]

I also spent some time this past weekend fitting the Vintage Air Controller in the passenger foot well box. Its all a tight fit, but will allow me to access and service everything if needed.

https://i.imgur.com/mJhbj5u.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Vb5QAG6.jpg

[Shoeless]

103523

Hey guys,

So I decided to spend the time redoing the engine wiring harness diagram as I was seeing contradictions from schematics and the manual from AEM, plus I'll also be modifying this harness to utilize the open channels on my AEM Series 5 ECU. I'll be able to plot this out large at work and hang it on the wall when I go to modify the harness to work in the GTM.

I plan on doing this for the car as well as I want a diagram to follow when I start to go into wiring the whole car.

[Shoeless]

Got the Dewitts radiator, fan shroud, and AC Condenser install this past weekend as well.

Everything looks pretty good, but then I looked at the AC hoses that connect to the condenser especially the low side I started scratching my head. With the tube that comes off the condenser, the line that then connects to the Vintage Air unit has a crazy bend in it. Not sure if the condenser used to only have a fitting on the side of it and not the extension tube, but this make for some interesting routing past the heat shield.

I can't remember if I have seen this before, but thinking of cutting the opening where the two cutouts are in this panel and make one larger opening to aid with routing this hose. Thoughts?

https://i.imgur.com/vvi6z1F.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/miMWvh1.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

That is what we normally do....figure out where the hose wants to be and then trim the alum panel to clear the hose. The hose that runs to the top of the condenser is always a bit of a challenge also.....especially with the DeWitts radiator since it's "bulkier" than the stock radiator. Make sure that the end of the hose lines up perfectly with the condenser....if there is pressure trying to force the hose end one way or the other, that fitting will likely leak. The aluminum hose end is soft enough that you can usually "adjust" it by hand to get the angle right so that it doesn't end up being wedged tight against the chassis or the radiator.

[Shoeless]

That is what we normally do....figure out where the hose wants to be and then trim the alum panel to clear the hose. The hose that runs to the top of the condenser is always a bit of a challenge also.....especially with the DeWitts radiator since it's "bulkier" than the stock radiator. Make sure that the end of the hose lines up perfectly with the condenser....if there is pressure trying to force the hose end one way or the other, that fitting will likely leak. The aluminum hose end is soft enough that you can usually "adjust" it by hand to get the angle right so that it doesn't end up being wedged tight against the chassis or the radiator.

Thanks for the reply Shane, yea that hose is going to be a pain, but now I'll look at where it will rest nicely to not put pressure on the condenser. Even that tube is VERY flimsy and easily movable.

I also ordered the rear molded coolant hoses that someone ran down some PNs a while ago to ditch the corrugated lines and now I'm looking at silicone hoses and connectors for the radiator to the coolant tubes. That end is definitely going to be pricey, but at least I'll not be using the FF connectors and cheap corrugated tubing.

[jamesfr58]

Sent you a PM on the insulation question, finally back home and getting caught up, sorry for delayed response but races were a blast and weather at 80 degrees much better than weather at home in Wyoming at 11 for high and -10 for a low. But getting better now as spring approaches hope it comes soon ………….

[Shoeless]

Sent you a PM on the insulation question, finally back home and getting caught up, sorry for delayed response but races were a blast and weather at 80 degrees much better than weather at home in Wyoming at 11 for high and -10 for a low. But getting better now as spring approaches hope it comes soon ………….

Thanks for the info James and glad you had a great time at the races. My buddies and I went to the 12 Hours of Sebring last year and were kicking around the idea of going yesterday, but it fell through. So I spent the time in the garage making progress. I got my AC lines all mocked up and I like they way they are laying in the front of the car now. That look some time, but I'm happy. So now time to pull them out and insulate them for final install.

Those are some brutal temps, hopefully spring shows up soon for ya.

[Shoeless]

It's been one of those days on Shoeless GTM.

I have spent a good amount of time lately digging into the AEM Series 5 EMS and laying out the wiring harness that I will need to modify. The more I dug into it, the more I had this sneaking feeling, I missed something. Well, I sure did. Long story short, the decision to go with the Series 5 placed unwanted limitations on the functionality I expected I was able to incorporate. First and probably the largest concern was the traction control. In the Series 5 tech specs it called out two wheel traction control. I shared several emails with AEM's tech support on the topic, but apparently I was't asking the question properly. I would have to hook up one non-drive wheel and one drive wheel. Well, that's not going to cut it. I need 4 wheel traction control with the EMS pulling data from all 4 wheels to do what I want. The second issue was the expandability to add the extra sensors I want. I found out the channels in the EMS that I thought I could reconfigure, I can't, they are fixed.

I have lost some serious sleep, but fortunately Amazon is giving me a 100% refund on the wiring harness and Summit is only going to charge me a 10% restocking fee for the EMS and extra wideband O2 controller I bought. I was TOTALLY happy with this, especially since I purchased this stuff this last Thanksgiving.

I will also need to redesign and have Shane remake me the custom bracket I had tabbed up for my fuel filter and rear electronics.

This truly feels like 2 steps forward and 20 back, but nobody said building a custom GTM would be easy. This is just the process we have to follow trying to go down the path few, if any have traveled before (I know of no AEM EMS in a GTM to date, so I guess I'm the first).

Time to roll up my sleeves and move on.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Dang...sorry to hear about the setback, but glad to hear it didn't cost you much more than a lot of time....

[jamesfr58]

Sorry to hear that Sean, I to have had a few of the same type of things happen. Tried to integrate the Digital Dawg RFD system with the Infinity Box system like I was instructed but could never get it to work so at the end of the day I separated the two systems and got them to work as two separate systems with only the safety switch to prevent starting connected between the two. In a strange way it might have worked out for the best. If for any reason I loose the Infinity Box system I can still start and drive the car with the Digital Dawg working, the engine is on a stand alone wire harness and not tied to Infinity box system so the care will start and run even it nothing else works. The lock and unlock on the doors is tied to the Digital Dawg so I should be able to get in even with the Infinity box systems down or will have a manual pull tab on one door anyway to insure I can open the car if battery dead.

Your are right not easy to build, but has been worth the effort even having to build the same thing three time to get it the way I want it. Gives me something to do, keep me out of the house and my mind always thinking of some other way to change the design into something I can say I built and made just a few design changes to hopefully make it better.

[Shoeless]

Thanks for the kind words Shane and James.

No easy pill to swallow, but SO glad I found this issue now and not down the road so to speak. In the long run it will run a few more $$$, but will meet the expectations I’m going for. And that’s what’s more important to me.

Funny thing though. I got an email at work today stating that an idea I came up with with over a year ago with a few other Colleagues is going to go in front of our Patent Review Board. If accepted Pratt & Whitney will submit for the patent and if all goes well, I’ll have my very first patent. For Engineers and like minded GTM builders that’s about as cool as it gets to me. I can’t share too many details, but it is in the field of additive manufacturing and incorporating it in our turbojet business.

Not to mention it comes with a nice gold plaque and a monetary award, so that will more than cover this setback :cool:

[crash]

So what system are you now going to use? Motec is the industry standard, but you would need that patent to pay off to afford it. No question you could get an ECU that would do whatever you wanted, but the price point is the issue. What do you have in mind?

[Shoeless]

So what system are you now going to use? Motec is the industry standard, but you would need that patent to pay off to afford it. No question you could get an ECU that would do whatever you wanted, but the price point is the issue. What do you have in mind?

For now, I'm still leaning towards AEM, but need to step up to the Series 7 ECU. I have spent various time over the last year to learn the AEM platform and wouldn't mind starting over with a different company, but you are absolutely right, price point is the main concern stepping up to the functions I'm looking to have. A quick search on Motec would lead me down the path of the M142 and that is going for about $3,900. The AEM Series 7 is sitting at $2,400.

There are also other factors that need to be taken into consideration. Unless you are very interested in doing as much of the initial setup and tuning yourself, and getting the training you need, you are looking at very expensive dyno time. I have taken some classes on HP Academy on Tuning and Wiring and have at least what I would consider a basic understanding of what needs to take place to at least get the base tune so the engine will start and then get into the road tuning process. I'll likely still need to get someone with a load bearing dyno to fine tune it for max break torque, but I should be able to get her going. AEM also offers Factory Training at their facility in California for $750 for two days and they require some knowledge of tuning to attend.

There is also the cost of building the wiring harness. When I picked up the Series 5, there is a plug and play harness for the 58x timing engine I have. I quickly learned once I laid the harness in the GTM, it was WAY off and there was no way I was going to simply modify a few legs of it. I would have had to completely rebuild it from scratch. So now I'm leaning towards building my own harness from scratch for the Series 7. With that also comes the cost of the proper crimping tools to build the harness. Thankfully, I enjoy a challenge, learning the process, and taking pride in doing it on my own.

The Patent Advisory Board meets April 4th I believe, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'm also looking forward to being able to share some of the work I have been doing, once it gets patented :cool:

[Roger Reid]

Via pm you were interested in the rear sway bar I made. Here are some pics. It sits just under the Kooks crossover and just above the G50-52 trans. It mounts to the upper rear A arm mount. You will need to check clearance in this location to see if it will work for you. Parts are available at http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=76&product_id=90

[beeman]

Thanks for sharing that, Roger.
Looks like you have it at the softest setting-Would you modify anything if you had to do it over? Smaller diameter bar?
Keep the updates coming, Sean! Life has been insanely busy, I will be home only 2 weeks in March then I'll get back into the car. Plus spring has arrived!

[Roger Reid]

Thanks for sharing that, Roger.
Looks like you have it at the softest setting-Would you modify anything if you had to do it over? Smaller diameter bar?
Keep the updates coming, Sean! Life has been insanely busy, I will be home only 2 weeks in March then I'll get back into the car. Plus spring has arrived!

I don't have enough track style driving at the limit to know if I have under or oversteer. The car feels very planted.

[Shoeless]

Via pm you were interested in the rear sway bar I made. Here are some pics. It sits just under the Kooks crossover and just above the G50-52 trans. It mounts to the upper rear A arm mount. You will need to check clearance in this location to see if it will work for you. Parts are available at http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=76&product_id=90

Thanks for sharing this Roger, very cool setup and definitely something for me to see if I can incorporate.


Thanks for sharing that, Roger.
Looks like you have it at the softest setting-Would you modify anything if you had to do it over? Smaller diameter bar?
Keep the updates coming, Sean! Life has been insanely busy, I will be home only 2 weeks in March then I'll get back into the car. Plus spring has arrived!

Will do :cool: I got a little bummed over the last week or so, but I'm doing what we all do. Learn from my mistakes, lick my wounds, and get back in the garage.

[Shoeless]

A little bit of an update.

Been crazy busy with work lately and it looks like things have paid off. Not only has the invention that the team and I came up with passed the Patent Approval Board and we are pushing forward with the lawyers to file it, I also got an unexpected bonus, and just got a promotion. Its great when hard work pays off and your efforts are recognized. This will totally cover the financial loss of the EMS system errors I made, so I've started to lay out a new wiring harness with the vacation day today.

Here's my current situation
https://i.imgur.com/6Z7GVLC.jpg

This new Series 7 EMS from AEM has 129 pins on the ECU to control everything I'm looking to do. I'll have to dissect the harness as it currently stands, integrate the Infinity Box setup, and create the logic inside the ECU.

Also, want to give a shout out to Beeman for hooking me up with his clock spring that he was no longer going to use. This will allow me to add 2 X 12 position Rotary Switches on the steering wheel to control the sensitivity of the Traction Control and Launch Control parameters on the fly. Since there are plenty of circuits, I may had a couple toggle buttons, we'll seen.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Electrical Fun!! That's another area I don't think a lot of people realize how much time in involved. Yes, it takes quite a while to physically wire up the car, but before you can do anything at all, you have to have a plan to know what you're doing!!....and that can take a ton of time, especially if you're not running the standard Painless harness and stock crate engine or donor engine harness.

[beeman]

Congrats on the patent application!
Yeah Shane, I actually enjoy the wiring process, but it's time consuming for sure.
Sean, do you have a button plate picked out? I couldn't find a good one off the shelf so I made one. The only cool consumer accessible ones are on racing simulator steering wheels.

[Shoeless]

Congrats on the patent application!
Yeah Shane, I actually enjoy the wiring process, but it's time consuming for sure.
Sean, do you have a button plate picked out? I couldn't find a good one off the shelf so I made one. The only cool consumer accessible ones are on racing simulator steering wheels.

Thanks Dave!!!!

I'm really looking forward to working through the electrical system. Having an idea in my head of what I want it to do, putting it on paper, and then making it happen is a huge challenge, but I'm loving it so far.

I looked at a few of the readily available button plates out there, but nothing fits what I'm going for. With the AEM CD-7 Race Dash I'm looking to go with, I need to keep the top part of the steering wheel area open to see the full screen. That limits me to the bottom area to work with, which I'm ok with. I grabbed some thin panel board and will mock up a couple options and see what I like. I may need to invest in a 3D printer for the garage, as this is a perfect time to mock things up as you have. I do have a guy that just made two carbon fiber panels for my boat on his router table, so once I have a good CAD file, he can knock it out for me.

Here is the panel he did for inside my cabin on the boat. Think of the top screen as an Infinity Box system for a boat, exact same concept with master cells, power cells, and communication cables instead of long runs of wiring harnesses.

https://i.imgur.com/HLSptri.jpg

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

I wanted to take a break from the computer work on planing out the wiring harness and get in the garage and do something on the car. I'm working on laying out the front coolant hoses and have a question. How low does the connection on the driver side have to sit to clear the hood? If I left it as is and didn't trim the 90 deg bend here, it will stick over the sheetmetal in the wheel wells. Do I need to make sure this is below the sheetmetal if I look from driver to passenger side to clear the hood?

https://i.imgur.com/eN1bh7V.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kcRbnhN.jpg

[jamesfr58]

I trimmed the 90 and it went on just below the level of the sheet metal as shown above, it works just fine that way and will not interfere with the front clip.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yes, you will have to trim that back....the elbow can't sit above the sheet metal or it will rub the hood.

[Shoeless]

Excellent, thanks James and Shane.

[crash]

Just a FYI, I cut my silicone tubing in a chop saw with an abrasive wheel. To keep the silicone from collapsing and deforming I use a small, short piece of metal tubing that is sized properly to the silicone. Just make sure you don't cut the metal tube when cutting the silicone. The other way I have seen it done nicely is with a band saw along with the internal metal tube support, but I don't have a band saw so no direct experience with that method.

[Shoeless]

Thanks for the heads up Crash. I tried the fresh razor blade and hose clamp method. Worked pretty good, but you do have to clamp just enough to hold it in place, but not crush the hose.

I'll need to order a couple more 90 deg bends so I worked on the section I had all the pieces for. I'm pretty happy with the silicone hose approach, a little pricy, but very clean. I'll likely trim back the hose clamps a bit to make them look a little cleaner.

https://i.imgur.com/rHggqH3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ro9Vi3G.jpg

[tanderson1]

You have a high current solenoid in the top of the last photo. Is that for a battery disconnect?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Looks like the Infinitybox inReserve solenoid.....which does cut power to the entire Infinitybox system (as well as whatever else you hook to it) so it doesn't drain your battery. If you don't use that, the Infinitybox system will drain your battery in about 3 days.

[Shoeless]

Yup, that's the Infinity Box InReserve battery shut off. Temporarily mounted with zip ties so I can finish off the layout in the front compartment.

[tanderson1]

Yup, that's the Infinity Box InReserve battery shut off. Temporarily mounted with zip ties so I can finish off the layout in the front compartment.

interesting, I was looking into something similar for when the car goes into storage for the winter. I might just put a high amp manual switch in the same spot under the hood.

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

I sent a little time this morning in the garage and finished off the front cooling hoses and installed a breather petcock for when I go to fill the cooling system. Everything is now below the wheel well sheet metal and should clear the hood just fine. This looks much cleaner and will function better than the corrugated crap FF supplies. I also ended up pulling the motor this last weekend as I'm not too happy with the insulation I put on the tunnel cooling system tubes. I'm sure it will work great, but it just takes up too much space. So I'll pull those out next, cut off the insulation, and wrap with header wrap and possible another heat type wrap.

https://i.imgur.com/xkQ5V5u.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Zj9kkP1.jpg

[beeman]

Was the bulk of the tunnel pipe insulation encroaching on something? If I was running my coolant through the tunnel (one of the first decisions I made with my build was to run it outside of the cabin), I'd be applying multiple layers of a ridiculous amount of insulation. The main complaint I see with driving a finished GTM isn't the harsh ride, isn't the deafening noise, isn't the blind spots, isn't the chore of getting in and out. It's the heat off the tunnel.

[Shoeless]

Was the bulk of the tunnel pipe insulation encroaching on something? If I was running my coolant through the tunnel (one of the first decisions I made with my build was to run it outside of the cabin), I'd be applying multiple layers of a ridiculous amount of insulation. The main complaint I see with driving a finished GTM isn't the harsh ride, isn't the deafening noise, isn't the blind spots, isn't the chore of getting in and out. It's the heat off the tunnel.

Maybe I'm concerned about running out of space, but should think twice about replacing the insulation I went with. Here is a pic of it. Its a high temp foam based that I picked up after reading someone else's post a while back. Maybe I'll try to keep it on and see if I run into any more issues. Either way I did need to pull the engine to swap the tube locations, as the manual is wrong, and remove the FF couplers now that I'm going with the silicon hoses and reducer in the front and the OEM replacement tubes in the rear that someone found would fit.

https://i.imgur.com/7lcs3pm.jpg

[tanderson1]

While the tunnel is tight i thing you should still be able to fit everything with that insulation on it. I took a look at mine and there is a bit of extra room there. (not a ton, but a bit). The insulation might make it hard to secure those lines down with the provided clamps.... im sure you can pick up some larger ones though.

On a side note your coolant lines look amazing. I am honestly considering removing my working setup (factory style) and replicating your setup. I don't suppose you have a complete list of each hose and coupler that you used?

[jamesfr58]

I used ceramic header wrap and covered it with aluminum tape. You can see it is a lot smaller in the picture of how I organized the piping in my tunnel. The reason I used this type of insulation in lieu of foam is if the foam gets too hot, burns or starts to smoke it produces poisonous gas as noted below.

107653

Fire Hazard of Polyurethane and Other Organic Foam Insulation:
Thermal decomposition products from polyurethane foam, consist mainly of carbon monoxide, benzene, toluene, oxides of nitrogen, hydrogen cyanide, acetaldehyde, acetone, propene, carbon dioxide, alkenes and water vapor.

We run into this kind of thing in the refineries where we design and engineer piping systems, thought I would say something as it is always a possibility the foam may get to hot or burn if something leaks and catches fire.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Was the bulk of the tunnel pipe insulation encroaching on something? If I was running my coolant through the tunnel (one of the first decisions I made with my build was to run it outside of the cabin), I'd be applying multiple layers of a ridiculous amount of insulation. The main complaint I see with driving a finished GTM isn't the harsh ride, isn't the deafening noise, isn't the blind spots, isn't the chore of getting in and out. It's the heat off the tunnel.

Agreed! The heat off the tunnel and getting your AC vent hoses sealed up in that top aluminum tunnel panel are going to be the 2 most important areas to focus on to keep the heat out of the cockpit. One thing I've found that seems to be really effective for the tunnel.....since you not only have the 2 main cooling tubes running thru there, but also the heater hoses and AC pressure hoses all giving off heat.....get your 2 main cooling tubes insulated well, then get all of your heater hoses and AC lines ran and then many times, well take some insulation that is essentially just foil-faced bubble wrap and span that across the width of the tunnel covering all of the hoses, and use foil tape to seal the sides of the bubble wrap to the sides of the tunnel and then install our louvered belly pans so that all of that heat is partitioned off from the tunnel and gets vented right out the bottom of the car.

[crash]

Hey guys,

I sent a little time this morning in the garage and finished off the front cooling hoses and installed a breather petcock for when I go to fill the cooling system. Everything is now below the wheel well sheet metal and should clear the hood just fine. This looks much cleaner and will function better than the corrugated crap FF supplies. I also ended up pulling the motor this last weekend as I'm not too happy with the insulation I put on the tunnel cooling system tubes. I'm sure it will work great, but it just takes up too much space. So I'll pull those out next, cut off the insulation, and wrap with header wrap and possible another heat type wrap.

https://i.imgur.com/xkQ5V5u.jpg



It looks good, but just wondering why you used silicone hose in the straight sections? If you had used aluminum tubing with beaded ends you could have saved on the silicone costs, the adapter costs, and used half as many hose clamps.

[Shoeless]

It looks good, but just wondering why you used silicone hose in the straight sections? If you had used aluminum tubing with beaded ends you could have saved on the silicone costs, the adapter costs, and used half as many hose clamps.

Just a preference. I kicked around the idea of getting straight sections of aluminum tubing to cut down on the items you mentioned (connectors & hose clamps), but just decided to go with all black silicone tubing for looks.

[Shoeless]

Agreed! The heat off the tunnel and getting your AC vent hoses sealed up in that top aluminum tunnel panel are going to be the 2 most important areas to focus on to keep the heat out of the cockpit. One thing I've found that seems to be really effective for the tunnel.....since you not only have the 2 main cooling tubes running thru there, but also the heater hoses and AC pressure hoses all giving off heat.....get your 2 main cooling tubes insulated well, then get all of your heater hoses and AC lines ran and then many times, well take some insulation that is essentially just foil-faced bubble wrap and span that across the width of the tunnel covering all of the hoses, and use foil tape to seal the sides of the bubble wrap to the sides of the tunnel and then install our louvered belly pans so that all of that heat is partitioned off from the tunnel and gets vented right out the bottom of the car.

Thanks for the input Shane!! I like the idea of the foil faced bubble wrap and tape to seal this all completely off.

[Shoeless]

While the tunnel is tight i thing you should still be able to fit everything with that insulation on it. I took a look at mine and there is a bit of extra room there. (not a ton, but a bit). The insulation might make it hard to secure those lines down with the provided clamps.... im sure you can pick up some larger ones though.

On a side note your coolant lines look amazing. I am honestly considering removing my working setup (factory style) and replicating your setup. I don't suppose you have a complete list of each hose and coupler that you used?

Hey tanderson,

Here is what I bought:
2 x 3ft sections - Could likely get smaller 1 ft sections looking back at it, but I don't know how much extra I need for where the tubes rest in the tunnel
4 x 4" 90 degree bend
1 x 45 deg bend
1 x 1.5" to 1.25" reducer
9 x 1.5" couplers
1 smaller hose clamp for the 1.25" section of the reducer
20 x hose clamps for 1.5" coupling sections

Took a little planning, but I"m very happy with the end product. As Crash mentioned, you can go with small aluminum tube sections with rolled ends, but I decided I wanted all black hose for looks.

[tanderson1]

Hey tanderson,

Here is what I bought:
2 x 3ft sections - Could likely get smaller 1 ft sections looking back at it, but I don't know how much extra I need for where the tubes rest in the tunnel
4 x 4" 90 degree bend
1 x 45 deg bend
1 x 1.5" to 1.25" reducer
9 x 1.5" couplers
1 smaller hose clamp for the 1.25" section of the reducer
20 x hose clamps for 1.5" coupling sections

Took a little planning, but I"m very happy with the end product. As Crash mentioned, you can go with small aluminum tube sections with rolled ends, but I decided I wanted all black hose for looks.

Great thanks, 2 more questions,

Did you order them online? if so from where, i might just buy them from the same place.
You also mentioned that you found factory hoses that work for the engine side, do you have the hose number for that or know what vehicle they come off of?


Yours look great, i think i would like to set them up just like that.

[jamesfr58]

Looks good and kind of unique in a way. Sorry for the bold in my post I lifted the wording from one of my specification sheets and it came our bold, did not look that way when typing message but when posted was bold.

[Shoeless]

Looks good and kind of unique in a way. Sorry for the bold in my post I lifted the wording from one of my specification sheets and it came our bold, did not look that way when typing message but when posted was bold.

That's what I was going for, a little different look. No worries on the bold :cool:

[Shoeless]

Great thanks, 2 more questions,

Did you order them online? if so from where, i might just buy them from the same place.
You also mentioned that you found factory hoses that work for the engine side, do you have the hose number for that or know what vehicle they come off of?


Yours look great, i think i would like to set them up just like that.

1. I got all the silicone hose setup stuff from https://www.pegasusautoracing.com and you are looking to spend around $300 for everything.
2. AC delco 26030x & 26022x or Gates 20893 & 20827. I found these from some older posts and they are very price effective when compared to the front hose setup.

[jamesfr58]

I got some specialty reducing silicone hose and hose fitting from them as well, they have the best selection of specialty silicone hose I have found. Wanted to get rid of the short pieces of hose used to bush up the fitting size shipped with GTM or as indicated in build manual. They are still were still trying to leak at each of these locations so I got radiator hose fittings from Pegasus that would allow me to get rid of the bushing hoses and they work so much better.

[Shoeless]

I got some specialty reducing silicone hose and hose fitting from them as well, they have the best selection of specialty silicone hose I have found. Wanted to get rid of the short pieces of hose used to bush up the fitting size shipped with GTM or as indicated in build manual. They are still were still trying to leak at each of these locations so I got radiator hose fittings from Pegasus that would allow me to get rid of the bushing hoses and they work so much better.

I did the exact same thing, I didn't like the reducing parts that came from FF. Just a cheap option for a high end sports car.

[Shoeless]

I took some time this weekend to route the clutch line since I have the motor out. The goal was to follow the exact path of the rear brake lines and then cross over where others have for the Mendy clutch. Maybe this thing will show up one day, its been almost two years now. Oh well.

I was able to make the bends and follow the lines pretty darn closely and then needed to come up with a solution for spacing between the lines so they wouldn't be rubbing each other. I took some old tool box drawer mat, cut to size and then zip tied in place along the runs for spacing. I think it turned out rather nicely, perfect spacing. Now time to do the entire length.

https://i.imgur.com/DMtau1d.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0frA1bn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YwpqYUK.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Great idea! Very nice line routing!!

[Shoeless]

Great idea! Very nice line routing!!

Thanks Shane!!!

I started working from the front to the back tonight. Couple more nice photos showing progress. I got large enough clamps that I can fit a spacer in the areas of the clamps for a nice snug fit. I'm pretty happy with this simple idea.

https://i.imgur.com/Qd7ayS8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wwH8iLS.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Nice clean installation looks good, mine is different routing to my G-96 tranny, I should take picture and post to see if it is ok where it is located. Great work !!

[Shoeless]

Not really a GTM update, but this is where the rest of my time and money go. The wife and I took the boat to West End and Lucaya Bahamas for the week of 4th of July. I’ve got one more trip to the Dry Tortugas this coming up weekend and then I will shift my focus back to the GTM.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2csnPKYtPcQ

[Shoeless]

Now that I have my two main summer fishing trips knocked out, its time to get back in the garage.

Lots of odds and ends to work on in order to get the LS3 ready to be put back in. I installed the water pump after tapping and installing some 45 deg angled fittings for the cooling hoses and installed Shane's belt tensioner system. Belts fit up nicely after a few trips back and fourth to NAPA.

https://i.imgur.com/sTzuHtx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uxhrGi5.jpg

Next was a test fit up of the headers. The drivers side fit up no problem, but had a couple things in the way on the passenger side. I had to bend down the heat shield around the motor mount, I'll need the ceramic coil wires, and will need to find a good home for the dip stick. I've looked through two versions of the manual, but just can't find where is outlines what to do. Looks like I should be able to give it a few bends and it will move to a bolt hole location a little more forward on the headers. I'll need to get the ceramic coil wires first to see if I have clearance. Boy they looks nice!!!!!

https://i.imgur.com/WzB7SXD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EYBaZKG.jpg

I then decided it was time to insulate the garage bit so I can keep working into the hot months down here in S FL. Should help keep the temps down.

https://i.imgur.com/zZZsysM.jpg

Then finished off today notching the frame to clear the AC plug. It was a tight fit and with my semi-rigid poly motor mounts I may not have an issue, but went ahead and did it any way. I'll clean this up and paint it, or wait to get my welder over to weld in the piece I cut out. I'm thinking its time I learn how to weld so I can knock small stuff like this out myself.

https://i.imgur.com/k6yhVrH.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Sean

Looking at you LS3, I have to ask does the engine fit with the GM alternator mount shown in the picture? I had to use the brackets and make a couple of pieces to get it tucked into the motor or I would have to modify the tunnel side to make room for the alternator. As to the dipstick issue, I just re-bent the original dipstick tube to that it point toward the rear of the car and use the bracket modified (again re-bent) to match up with a hole on the heads. In the picture below you can see the oil dipstick in the lower right had of the picture. I assume the hole for the dipstick in on the same side kind of behind the starter. The tube is kind of brittle and it you don't have the spiral type dipstick might need one of those to, as the straight dipstick would not make the turns to get into the oil pan.

111802

[Shoeless]

Morning James,

The alternator in my setup is the CTS-V bracket and alternator that was discovered to fit perfectly some time ago as a fix to the crappy FF alternator bracket. Thankfully for my LS3 it literally bolted right up with all the GM hardware without having to modify a thing. I did have to pay particular attention to which year CTS-V alternator to get in conjunction with my EMS as I will need the one with the one wire turn on signal. I'll likely need to remove it to get it back into the car, but I did do a test fit last time the motor was in and it tucks up there nicely.

Thanks for the pic on your dip stick. When I pulled my dipstick out there was a little bottom tube that seemed to just be hanging on the bottom of the long tube, but not connected. Not sure if this is busted and needing replacing, but I was able to snap the bottom tube back into the top tube. Is it supposed to look like this?

https://i.imgur.com/63uP3MJ.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Sean,

The tube is broken, it is supposed to have the little piece after the O-ring. The groove in the tube is for a O-ring that provides a positive seal so the tube does not leak. It is easy to break that end of the tube off, I know as I broke one myself trying to bend it around to where I wanted it to go. And I did have to use a dipstick that was twisted in a spiral to get the dipstick to follow the bends and into the oil pan. The straight dipstick would not make the turns needed to slide down the tube.

As you know I ended up trading out the oil pant that came on the built engine with another one that was lower in profile. When I changed the pan it had a different tube and dip stick (one of the straight ones) and it would not make the bends to enter the oil pan. In trying to get the new dipstick to work I broke the end as you are describing above trying to bend it. So I went back to the one I already had bent as the ends that went into the block were the same, but had to actually modify the dipstick so it was the same length as the one that came with the new oil pan and again was the spiral twist type of dipstick so it would make the turns in the tube. Ended up tapping the pin out of the handle, cutting it off and re drilling the hole for the pin to insure that the end that went into the oil pan was the same length as the one that came with the new oil pan. It worked out good and is back in the car just like the picture I posted.

You are going to need a new tube to replace the broken on and unless you have better luck than I did a dipstick that has the spiral twist that will allow it to turn a 90 degree corner if needed, as no matter how hard I tried I could not get the straight dipstick to follow the inside fo the tube and make the turns required to get into the oil pan.

[Shoeless]

With Summit and Jegs running their periodic buy $XX get $XX (~10%) off sale, its time to pick up some big ticket items for Shoeless GTM. Big hitters on the list are the AEM Series 7 ECU after I made the blunder on the Series 5 thinking it would do everything I was looking for and the CD-7 Digital Dash. I have gone back and fourth so many times mocking this up, as its a pretty big step going between the 5" screen and the 7" screen. So of course I had to do it again, JUST to make sure I was happy with the 7" screen. I think with the below pics, the CD-5 just doesn't fill up the space the same as the CD-7, so the 7" screen it is.

Out comes the interior again.
https://i.imgur.com/99C9YJA.jpg

CD-5 Mock up.
https://i.imgur.com/XiQt5CE.jpg

CD-7 Mock up.
https://i.imgur.com/IoFv6Bs.jpg

[Shoeless]

Sean,

The tube is broken, it is supposed to have the little piece after the O-ring. The groove in the tube is for a O-ring that provides a positive seal so the tube does not leak. It is easy to break that end of the tube off, I know as I broke one myself trying to bend it around to where I wanted it to go. And I did have to use a dipstick that was twisted in a spiral to get the dipstick to follow the bends and into the oil pan. The straight dipstick would not make the turns needed to slide down the tube.

As you know I ended up trading out the oil pant that came on the built engine with another one that was lower in profile. When I changed the pan it had a different tube and dip stick (one of the straight ones) and it would not make the bends to enter the oil pan. In trying to get the new dipstick to work I broke the end as you are describing above trying to bend it. So I went back to the one I already had bent as the ends that went into the block were the same, but had to actually modify the dipstick so it was the same length as the one that came with the new oil pan and again was the spiral twist type of dipstick so it would make the turns in the tube. Ended up tapping the pin out of the handle, cutting it off and re drilling the hole for the pin to insure that the end that went into the oil pan was the same length as the one that came with the new oil pan. It worked out good and is back in the car just like the picture I posted.

You are going to need a new tube to replace the broken on and unless you have better luck than I did a dipstick that has the spiral twist that will allow it to turn a 90 degree corner if needed, as no matter how hard I tried I could not get the straight dipstick to follow the inside fo the tube and make the turns required to get into the oil pan.

Hey James,

Thank you for confirming the broken tube, I'll remedy that situation. I'm sure I was the one that broke it trying to twist it to remove from the block. I'll likely look for a dip stick that is more of the cable type to match the length of the one that came off my motor to help with the crazy bends. As for the tube, I guess I'll try another one and work on trying to bend it to match a similar location to yours. There is no way I want to be reaching as far into the engine bay to reach the OEM location, that's a PITA and not to mention leaning against the body to reach it. My buddy down in Jupiter who bought a built GTM has it this way and I tried to reach for it just to see and its WAY back there.

[Shoeless]

Now I'm looking around the garage floor to see if I can find the o-ring that broke off the dipstick. I see dropping my oil pan in the near future to make sure it didn't fall in, I suspect it has.

[jamesfr58]

Sean,

If you have some picks you might see if the O-ring is still in the hole the tube fits in. Since your engine is out you may be able to get pick down the hole and fish it out if it is still in there, but you are right there is a small O-ring that goes right where I image the tube broke. But you might be right and it may be in the pan, would not be easy for it to get in there due to its size in relationship to the tube below the O-ring.

On another note, where did you get the steering wheel you have on now and shown in the pictures? Been thing of getting on in that configuration. And I to had one of those days, found hydraulic leak in union on line to slave cylinder to tried and finally got it fixed today but is was a real adventure and comedy of errors on my part, I have now officially oiled my shop floor!! Check out my post.

[jamesfr58]

Could not figure out how to post picture on PM so posting one here that shows configuration of CAI

111851 111852 111853

Hope this will be f some assistance, imagine there are several different ways to get it done.

[beeman]

James, your car looks like some kind of wicked Ariel Atom with that big wing on back!
I'd consider flipping that small section of intake tube around that your MAF is on to give it 1 more inch of straight airflow for a better reading, GM recommends that there be at least 6" of straight tubing before the MAF, it looks like you're close.

[Shoeless]

Took another closer look in the dip stick hole, no luck seeing an o-ring. No big deal, I'll drop the oil pan and take a look. I ended up ordering Lokar PN ED-5008 and will need to modify to read the proper level on my LS3 as this one is for an LS1, but its what the Lokar tech recommended. Should be nice being a flex hose to route the way I want and it looks pretty sharp too. Ebay ended up having the lowest cost.

Hey James,

I got this steering wheel from Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOM-EAG35BK0S

I hadn't noticed where your MAF was before seeing these pics. Beeman is right, might be worth flipping that tube around. I'll be going with speed density on the AEM setup so I won't need to worry about mine. I might still be able to squeeze in a split 4" setup on mine. Will take some careful planning, but I think I can pull it off.

[crash]

Just remember, the MAF is directional.

[Shoeless]

Hey Guys,

Beeman was nice enough to hook me up with his old clock spring as he is going a different direction, so I'm looking to incorporate it on my build. Does anyone know what the silver cast aluminum part is on the steering column that has 4 wires coming from it and do we need it on the GTM. I found one website calling it Theft Deterrent or Front/Rear/Side Lock. I'm thinking of cutting into it in the red circle area to make room for the clock spring to slide over the column. What do you guys think?

https://i.imgur.com/ClEiJni.jpg

[beeman]

That's the steering column lock, an anti theft item, I'd remove the whole unit. It's been known to activate in error in C5s, leaving the owner stranded.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F38 2783724772

[Shoeless]

That's the steering column lock, an anti theft item, I'd remove the whole unit. It's been known to activate in error in C5s, leaving the owner stranded.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F38 2783724772

I am now infinitely smarter, thanks!!!

It looks like I can take a dremel, cut the bottom off the housing, slide the locking mechanism out, and then trim the remaining housing to let the clock spring slide right in place. The pics on the eBay listing really helped see what this thing looks like. Thanks again!!!

[jamesfr58]

Sean,

I did they same thing a Beeman and removed the entire unit as nothing electrical or otherwise will connect or used by the GTM. It will unscrew and cane be removed, that way no worries if it activating and locking something up.

[Shoeless]

I ended up notching the housing for the lock mechanism in my hunt to make the clock spring fit. Slides over the shaft and locks in place perfectly. I have a few more steps but I almost have this thing set up.

Couple questions:
Any trick to getting the retaining ring holding the white piece in my pic above off with out the special tool?

Is the locking piece the black button to the left of the bolt in the green circle above? I highly doubt this thing will work after I cut into the housing and cut wires inside of it, but I can cut that off as well.

[jamesfr58]

Yes, the black pin in your picture is spring loaded and has in several cases engaged via the spring even though it is not hooked up to power. No sure they say anything about disabling it in the build manual, and everyone cuts the wires (or to be more precise) the GTM build does not use these wires when hooking up the harness on the steering column but there have been cases where the pin has popped up and engaged making impossible to move the steering wheel. As mentioned above I jut removed the whole module. Everything went together as it should without the module still in the steering column.

On Page 97 of the manual it tells you how to retract the pin back into the column:

"Now you will need to disable the column lock pin to allow the wheel to rotate freely. The first step is to cut the purple and orange wires leading to the lock module on the column.

Strip a small section of insulation off the orange and purple wires (the end of the wire leading to the column, not the plug) then simultaneously touch the purple wire to the positive side of a battery and the orange wire to the negative side of the battery. This will retract the pin into the module housing."

But to make sure the pin cannot pop back up I removed the module, believe there only screws holding it in if I remember right, but anyway I removed the whole thing vs. just drawing the pin back into the housing.

[KGTM]

" pin has popped up and engaged making impossible" who's car did this happen in? it seem crazy that corvette will do this in their car, have they been recalled? seem like with no power it should be hard for it to move.

I have seen video about this but for most part is not the actuator issue as the BCM and the sensor that think the car is locked.

I have left it just in case I want to use it.

Mostafa

[beeman]

http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l=product_detail&p=470


Unfortunately, in most 97-04 Corvettes, this system can fail, resulting in Service Column Lock and/or Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds messages, and often shutting off the fuel at 2 MPH, completely disabling your Vette. GM has recalled over 126,000 1997-2004 Corvettes for steering column lock problems. Unfortunately, these recalls didn’t fix the problem, and sometimes created entirely new ones.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/2933987-stranded-by-column-lock-grrrrrr.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/2799511-service-column-lock-stranded.html

[KGTM]

I read most of then an it had to do with the sensor detecting the car conditions and not the lock itself and forces the car to slow speed but the wheel is not locked.

from corvette forums "Again, the column IS NOT LOCKED but I no longer hear the motor making its locking/unlocking noise. The whole reason I can't drive it is because it won't go over 3 MPH!!!"

I just want to make sure is is necessary to removed if not connect at all for now.

Thanks,
Mostafa

[Shoeless]

I was able to get the clock spring that beeman hooked me up with installed. It may need a little more tweaking, but I'm pretty happy so far.

I originally wanted to cut the bottom off the steering wheel lock mechanism to completely remove it and leave the cast housing, but I found once I cut into the bottom side of it there are spars inside it. So I ended up just notching the housing and cutting out some wires for the clock spring to fit

https://i.imgur.com/AaoSP2M.jpg

From there I needed to cut some clearance on the clock spring housing and was able to use this as a holding feature when installed as well.

https://i.imgur.com/T5WcEeW.jpg

Clock spring fits perfectly now.

https://i.imgur.com/00Utk0c.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3ljPUPL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZBTwqEc.jpg

[Shoeless]

From there I needed to make some clearance on the Momo adapter before installing on the steering shaft. I also sanded down some of the clock spring housing to clear the adapter.

https://i.imgur.com/xfxgZal.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bzJCw3h.jpg

Steering wheel fits perfectly, but I do have some movement in the clock spring as I turn from lock to lock with the wheel. I'll likely pull it apart to make some more clearance to make sure its not binding up somewhere I can't see. The wiring also tucks up nicely in the factory location.

https://i.imgur.com/6QqbWsL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GQOy2ke.jpg

This setup will now give me all the wiring I need for the following functions:
- Horn
- 2 x 12 position trim pot dials (traction control sensitivity & likely launch control settings)
- 2 x buttons to scroll through the screen options and track GPS start/finish line on the AEM CD-7 Digital Dash
- Likely up to 4 more buttons for other functions

[jamesfr58]

Looking good, kind of wished I had done something along the same lines but did not and will finish it as it is now. But it will make for a clean install I am sure.

[jamesfr58]

Sean,

Thanks for the information on he steering wheel replacement, I just order on as I am sure it will assist my old butt in getting in and out of the GTM. At 62 I just don't bend as good as I once did.

[Shoeless]

Sean,

Thanks for the information on he steering wheel replacement, I just order on as I am sure it will assist my old butt in getting in and out of the GTM. At 62 I just don't bend as good as I once did.

Absolutely!! After getting in and out of a couple GTMs, I found out there is no sexy way in and out HAHA. I liked the idea of having a little extra space with the flat “notch” in the wheel. Although I’m only 39, injuries from my time in Iraq resulted in pins and screws holding my lower spine together. So my back feels like it’s 60 some times.

[KGTM]

Shoeless,

on post 362, your stereo close out box, are you sure Double din or may be even single Din will fit in there?

Just giving you a head up to check this.

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

I'm working on routing of my heater core lines and think I'm going to settle with the hoses going over the battery. This wouldn't be my preference, but the 90 deg bend tubes don't leave me with much options with everything else taking up space. I'm even going with an smaller Brail battery. Am I missing something? Would have been nice to have 135 deg bends to angle this back in the direction the hoses need to go.

https://i.imgur.com/X72eUDx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1Uc5CzA.jpg

[Roger Reid]

I contacted Vintage Air and they supplied me with straight out fittings.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

We normally point the elbows downward instead of off to the side....but it does look like those elbows you have are maybe longer than normal?

[Shoeless]

Thanks Roger and Shane, either of those options would be better than what I have here.

I may try to take these down the road to a hydraulic hose shop and see if they can bend them over further so I can orient them down and back. I tried to bend them with the tools I have, but these darn things are pretty stout.

[crash]

You could always try these for the heater lines...

https://www.anplumbing.com/hose-ends/push-on.html

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I dont' think the heater core hook-ups are AN.....It's been a while since I installed a set of those tubes, but I was thinking they are O-ring sealed, much like the evaporator core?

[crash]

I dont' think the heater core hook-ups are AN.....It's been a while since I installed a set of those tubes, but I was thinking they are O-ring sealed, much like the evaporator core?

We don't have a heater or AC in the race car so I have never seen the Vintage Air GTM heater core. Are you saying that the inlet/outlet to the core is not a tapered sealing surface type of fitting? Almost all those tube fittings I have seen of that style are flare fittings. IIRC some use a JIC flare angle and some use the AN angle, but both will work with each other in low pressure applications.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

113055

[Shoeless]

Yea these are an o-ring sealing type, exactly like the pic Shane just shared.

[crash]

Very interesting that they would use that type of fitting on this application. In any case, that same website does have the adaptors for this type of seal under the power steering fittings section...

https://www.anplumbing.com/hose-ends/power-steering.html

All in these adaptors add about another $100 to solve the issue...that should have never been an issue in the first place! :)

EDIT:I was looking this over last night and I still do not see the proper adaptor for the Vintage Air fittings there at the AN website. Ridiculous fitting choice by Vintage Air, but it looks like you are stuck with using what you have. If you are having issues bending the aluminum tubes you can heat them with a plumbers propane torch and that should make it easier. Just be careful not to over heat them or concentrate forces as that will cause kinking.

[MTSCustoms]

Looking good. I too went back and forth about the CD5 vs CD7. ultimately, I went with the CD5 and 2 analog gauges, with some custom bezels/mounting. Will be adding th GPS, 2 or 22 channel can adapter, and the VDM box. I am going for an as OEM look as possible. Still gotta paint the bezels but this is where I am at with it.
https://i.imgur.com/9odvcvR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zs4ZLA6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W4UbrTp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zXxUA9h.jpg

[Shoeless]

Love the look MTSCustomes!!!

So I was hoping to be in the garage this weekend, but nature got in my way. So the GTM is all tucked away with crap all around it in the garage. So far it looks like this hurricane will miss my house, but it all depends on where it turns. Should know in about 24 hours. Its very sad seeing the places I fish in the Bahamas completely leveled :(. Its going to take them years to recover from this.

I was determined to get something done on the GTM so its back to laying out the wiring harness for the engine. It took a bit to pick up where I left off, but I'm doing pretty good with it. One main issue I'm having is finding pin out specs for the several AC Delco sensors I have on my engine. I didn't think this would be a difficult thing, but once I started searching, I can't find anything. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I ended up emailing AC Delco to ask if they can help me with specs and calibration diagrams for their sensors. Obviously will need the pinout to hook up properly and calibration curves to make sure the AEM Series 7 is reading and interpreting the data correctly.

Once I get this diagram completed, verified, and some more hardware in the GTM, I'll revive my other post on creating a motorsports grade wiring harness.

https://i.imgur.com/BQDkkzs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GUFMSyN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FaWuUo1.jpg

[Roger Reid]

What about the boat? How do you protect that?

[Shoeless]

What about the boat? How do you protect that?

I prep the boat by removing the 4 ft radar antenna with 4 bolts and then covering the base with a couple trash bags and duct tape it in place. Then I unplug the onboard charger and close all the doors underneath the cover. And finally I tie the cover down as physically tight as I can with 550 cord. Basically tie the loops on one side of the cover, go underneath the boat, and connect to the loops on the other side. That way the cover is cinched down tightly against the hull to prevent any wind from getting underneath it. That way if anything falls on the boat, hopefully the cover cushions the fall and deflects it. It's much easier and cheaper to replace a canvas cover than fiberglass repair. Then hope and pray for the best.

We dodged the brunt of this one at my house, but we are definitely in the peak of hurricane season. Hopefully no more storms will head my way. Its a royal PITA bringing everything inside and putting shutters up.

[jamesfr58]

Wishing you all the best and hope you miss most of it !!

[Roger Reid]

Yes. Good luck and stay dry.