Eaton's Mk4 #9130 Oregon Build- First Year of Street legal driving [Archive]

Mark Eaton

09-22-2017, 12:12 AM

I arrive to this scene with my two hands, the will to succeed, and a shop! Oh, and a new Harbor Freight memebership. Build experience? Not much, in 1987 my college roommate and I pulled the engine out of my ’69 Chevelle, and rebuilt it. Every part on that rebuild I foraged from local junk yards. Painful. But she ran. I loved that old convertible. I had to sell her to afford medical school. Since then I haven’t had time to look back until now.

As a general and vascular surgeon I love working with my hands and I am good at making thins fit together. I have 100% support from my wife. I have two boys (11 &13) whom are budding young mechanics, that is, when they’re paying attention.

What I know right now is that I want a Cobra to drive around town with my wife on Sundays in nice weather and occasionally take it to the track and drive like a bat out of Hell. I am not interested in building a space shuttle with a steering wheel or a “show quality” car. My purpose for this build thread is to get as much advice as possible from those whom have come before me. I doubt anybody will learn anything of value from my postings.

MK4 Complete Kit

Options:
powder coated chassis
IRS
17” Halibrand style wheel/ tire package
power steering
Front and rear Wilwood brakes
Front and rear sway bars
body cut outs
GPS gauge kit
leather seats
dual powder coated roll bars
heater
windshield wipers
wind wings
battery cut off switch
catalytic converters

DART SHP 347 Stroker engine (EFI) with Tremec TKO 600 from Mike Forte

I haven’t decided on colors for sure but I’m thinking a Maroon/Black/Smoke theme.

Regrets, none. Except I wish I had started reading the Forum like a year ago. I’m so far behind on all these decisions. There are some great threads which I appreciate so much. Modification ideas I have picked up from the threads so far: hydraulic clutch, custom battery box (Either Breeze in front or the FF metals in back), snake skin in the cockpit, bed liner under the body, brake and clutch reservoir from CNC, trunk box, rear quick jack couplers, Upgraded louvres from FFR, leather partial steering wheel wrap.

Stewart Transport showed up 8/10/2017 and we got to work!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73974&d=1506053568

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73972&d=1506053519

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73973&d=1506053547

My 11yo helping remove panels

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73987&d=1506059168

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73986&d=1506059150

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73985&d=1506059123

Jazzman

09-22-2017, 12:44 AM

You have got to be kidding me!! :) You have an entire Quonset Hut to build in?!! Fantastic!! I envy you the joy of building this car with your sons. The three of you will never forget the time you will spend together. My sons are grown and gone now, and they are not interested in building a car anyway. With all three of you working on this, you may have the project done by Christmas!

You might be very surprised by how much benefit your postings might be to others. We all started somewhere, and I started just about the same lack of background that you are at. Everyone on the forum has something to offer. If we are wise and learn from the mistakes of others, we may perhaps have a smoother build. Or we just have to be more creative to come up with new and different mistakes!! Regardless, Your participation in the forum is valuable and appreciated by all who read it.

If you came here to get advice, you came to the right place! There are lots of us that are both willing to help you and willing to tell you how to spend your money!! If you have questions, just ask. Trust me, you just made one of the best decisions of your life! Now, get the Huntington Beach Cruise In on your busy medical schedule now. You do not want to miss it. It is generally the last weekend in April each year. You will be inspired, impressed, and find a lot of like minded FFR nuts to get to know. I loved it the first time I went 18 months ago. (Missed it this year due to an unexpected medical detour on vacation . . . Long story.) I won't miss it next year. I hope you and the family will be able to come.

Please post often of your progress. We all love to enjoy your build with you. Rest assured that you have ample support. If a Financial Planner like me can do it, surely two smart young men dragging a vascular surgeon along can do it!! Enjoy the insanity! We all look forward to your final product.

wareaglescott

09-22-2017, 05:10 AM

Good luck with your build. Look forward to following along. Like Jazzman I am loving your garage space.
Your prior automotive experience tops mine when I started by about 400% and I am proof that any amount of inexperience can be overcome by simply learning from others on the forum and asking questions. No question is to dumb and someone here will have a good answer for all of them!

Jeff Kleiner

09-22-2017, 05:21 AM

Have a blast and keep us updated!

Jeff

GoDadGo

09-22-2017, 05:26 AM

Congratulations & An Amazing Journey Has Just Begun!

The 347 from Mike Forte is a great power plant that will give you lots of thrills while being somewhat controllable too.

Also, it looks like you've got a great workspace, with an even greater assembly assistant!

Congratulations Again From The Deep South!

Railroad

09-22-2017, 08:51 AM

With that great shop, I am sure you are researching which lift to buy. Life is good!

Oops, in the 3rd pic, it looks like a swing arm of a lift. Not that those young boys will need it, but it will save an old man's (mine) back.

Straversi

09-22-2017, 09:08 AM

Welcome aboard. With those two boys, I get the feeling this will be the first of many great projects that roll out of that shop. Enjoy.
-Steve

Yama-Bro

09-22-2017, 01:47 PM

Congrats! You have a head start on me and my two boys. It will be fun to watch your build, while I'm doing mine! Good luck!

broku518

09-22-2017, 02:50 PM

wow, great place to work on your build! Mine is coming around 10/14 or so. Can't wait, feel like a kid in the candy shop...but no candy around LOL
(I am getting the same set up from Mike Forte, only carbureted)

quick question:
- how do plan to insulate your car? I am talking about heat transfer from engine bay over to foot boxes.
- are you thinking about painting those body panels? Or leave them clean? I am thinking black, but not sure what type of paint would fit in hot areas/ engine bay.

Cheers,
Martin

Mark Eaton

09-22-2017, 10:41 PM

Martin,

I planning to use Lizard Skin( both heat control and sound control) in the cockpit and trunk and possibly on the fire wall engine compartment side. It is a spray on product which appeals to me. I have seen some threads using Thermotec product (look at Jazzman's #8745 build thread), it looks more substantial but also seems more tedious to place. I am also entertaining the ideal of spraying the entire engine compartment with a truck bed liner like T Rex or UPOL Raptor. Look at them on Amazon, for about $100 you get a kit with a spray gun. In fact, I may just buy the 8 quart kit and line the bed of my truck while I'm at it!

As far at the engine panels. At this point instead of powder coating I'm using this stuff.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74008&d=1506137672

Mark Eaton

09-22-2017, 11:46 PM

I want to thank everybody for their posts and responses to my build thread. In the six weeks since the arrival of my kit I have pretty much been following the manual and reading threads like madd. Interesting, it seems like everything I put on I have to then take off, alter, and put on again. I am not riveting anything anymore or put the final torque until I am sure I will not need to modify again. We started with the front suspension. I assembled everything, including the hubs and then Wilwood brakes. I couldn't get the tie rod stud to join with the steering arm. It dawned on me I had put them on the wrong sides. Initially they looked like they could go on either side, however, they have a bevelled hole which accepts the tie rod stud and are therefore side specific. So, I took that apart and switched them. It would have been nice if the manual explained that...

Hard to see in this photo

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74015&d=1506140628

The other problem with this photo is that my grease fittings are not facing up. I stared at that for like an hour, the ball joints are correct. Conclusion, they were put together wrong at the factory? So, once again I took it apart and flipped the anchoring arm of the upper control arm 180 degrees so that the grease fittings are up.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74016&d=1506140628

This is better, grease fittings are facing up. You can't see but the steering arms are on the correct sides.

Now I made the mistake of reading more threads and everybody recommends using the safety wires on the Wilwood brakes. The instructions say that it is optional but all the experienced guys are doing it. My wife says "what are you crazy? your life could depend on those brakes!" So, I took off those stupid brakes that took so long to shim properly and put on safety wire. Nobody in town had the 0.032" wire so I had to order it from Summit and go to Harbor Freight to get the special pliers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74010&d=1506137768

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74009&d=1506137699

It aint perfect, but in Medford Oregon, that's good enough!

Mark Eaton

09-23-2017, 12:19 AM

Yama-Bro

09-23-2017, 12:50 PM

Looks good! Practice makes perfect...or something like that. ;). Let us know how the rustoleum clear works out. Are you doing any other prep to the panels before spraying?

Mark Eaton

09-23-2017, 06:13 PM

I just washed them with soap and water and then scuffed with scotch bright and steel wool.

Mark Eaton

09-23-2017, 06:15 PM

Had a pretty productive day and a half. Been working on the rear diff and IRS. I cleaned up the rear differential and spindles and painted them. You can see the aluminum that I painted with this Rust-Oleum product. If anybody thinks this is a bad idea please speak up now.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73976&d=1506053618

I used POR 15 on the cast iron part. I did the whole thing with wire brush, sanding, then the degreaser and then the metal prep product. Seemed like it took forever but I tell you this is some stout paint! I think I could send this thing into outer space with this paint on it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74006&d=1506137577

I kind of think that some DHT or Rust -Oleum with enamel and good etched primer would be just as effective but less work. Any thoughts?

Mark Eaton

09-23-2017, 06:26 PM

I think I might have something helpful for someone starting a build. I know this isn't earth shattering but I found this bolt measuring device at my Ace Hubbard's and it is so helpful. I wish I had it when I was doing my inventory.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74057&d=1506208860

The next is an idea I got from Edwardb's thread. These are just Hex Bolts which I have ground down to use to help line up the control arms and differential. These are 5/8" but I also did it with and M12. They really helped with the rear control arm installation.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74056&d=1506208860

Papa

09-23-2017, 07:18 PM

Any tool to measure a bolt is handy to have during the build. I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506212183&sr=8-1&keywords=bolt+thread+checker

It not only helps with the size, but the thread count as well. I've already used it a dozen times or more.

Mark Eaton

09-23-2017, 09:45 PM

That one is even better. Super helpful

Mark Eaton

09-23-2017, 11:20 PM

I have been dreading the differential install. I had a buddy help and it actually went much easier than I thought. The ground down 5/8" bolts and the lift helped. I had a really difficult time with the control arms. I was able to wrestle in the LCA but the UCA were really giving me a fit. I took the fore spacers out and ground them. Still couldn't get it. I went to the build threads and got out my 3 lb slegde hammer and "adjusted' the aft tabs. Now it went in, though still really tight. then I noticed the the grease fitting weren't easily accessible from above. ugh. nothing I could find in the manual. Back to the build threads, sure enough, looks like everybody puts them in facing downward . So I switched those out and this time I lubbed them. Lucky for the detailed build threads!

This first photo is my friend steadying the differential while I lower the chassis

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74067&d=1506225514

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74069&d=1506225566

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74071&d=1506225639

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74072&d=1506225692

done for the day...

Jazzman

09-23-2017, 11:36 PM

I kind of think that some DHT or Rust -Oleum with enamel and good etched primer would be just as effective but less work. Any thoughts?

I did us a Rust-O-leum product specifically for metal. I now wish I had gone to the effort of using the POR15. You are right, POR 15 does seem like it would survive re-entry! The Rustoleum began scratching off within a week. I don't think it is going to hold up. Sadly, it is far too deep inside to pull out now! You did the right thing using POR15.

WIS89

09-24-2017, 09:19 AM

Mark-

Nice progress. I echo Kevin's comments regarding the POR 15. It is worth the extra effort. I also wanted to point out that it is also the right thing to use if you have any of the powder coating separate from the frame. I have used it in a number of places, and it works great, matches well, and is tough as nails.

Keep up the good work.

Regards,

Steve

Mark Eaton

09-24-2017, 10:00 PM

I have been thinking a lot about the panels and powder coating. Looked at a lot of threads, talked to a a lot of people. I ordered some POR 15 Detail paint which comes in an aerosol. I will try it on a test panel to see how it looks. If it is as stout as the paint on product that i used on the differential I think it will replace powder coating for the panels.

Had a few hours today after church so my 13 yo and I puttered around, greased all the grease fitting, drilled the rear spindles, and washed the body. It was grimmy from transport as it wound up sitting in storage in Phoenix AZ for 6 weeks.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74134&d=1506308274

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74133&d=1506308228

Jazzman

09-25-2017, 10:32 AM

It was grimmy from transport as it wound up sitting in storage in Phoenix AZ for 6 weeks.

Hey, I think I resent that comment. We are not grimmey here in Phoenix! A bit dusty perhaps, but thoroughly warm!! :cool:

Vspeeds

09-25-2017, 06:49 PM

Mark
Looks like your build is moving right along. My kit arrived a few weeks ago but I havent even started yet. I look forward to seeing your progress.

Papa

09-25-2017, 09:20 PM

Hey, I think I resent that comment. We are not grimmey here in Phoenix! A bit dusty perhaps, but thoroughly warm!! :cool:

74157

Jazzman

09-26-2017, 09:09 AM

74157

Ok, so maybe we occasionally get a bit "Grimey"!! :rolleyes:

Mark Eaton

09-26-2017, 08:41 PM

Thanks Vspeeds,

I will watch for your thread as well. Looking forward to it.

Mark Eaton

10-01-2017, 06:03 AM

I spent yesterday morning cleaning and painting the front and rear sway bar mount plates. I used the POR 15 paint. I had to install the rear angle mounts after I had already installed the rear LCAs. It wasn't obvious to me how it all went together until I discovered the angle mounts in a box of "extras". Thats kind of how my build goes. I put something on and then take it all apart because I realize I left something off or put it on backwards. ;)

These are the sway bar mount plates before painting with POR 15

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74445&d=1506853894

While the paint is drying I cut and assembled the rod ends. I had read in other threads that they were difficult to cut but I used my angle grinder which went through like butter!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74444&d=1506853849

The instructions for the front sway bar say to remove the lower shock mounting bolt and replace with the provided 1/2"-13 x 3.25" bolt. The bolt I received from FF is 1/2"-20 x x3.5" (similar but different). I searched all around to see if I had somehow mixed up my inventory but I had not. In my front sway bar packing list that appears to be the correct bolt which they sent me for this purpose. I don't know if this is a change and the instructions have not been updated or what. It seems to fit fine. And I figure I can shorten it later if it looks too long during final assembly.

Finally, I did some more work on the rear spindles. I decided to plug the hole on the top of the spindles where I think the sensors for ABS go. I got the idea to do this from Edwardb's thread. I fabricated two little plates from some 1/8" aluminum and tapped the holes with a 1/4"-20 tap. I was really excited about this. I have never used a tap or die set. I bought one online and it showed up Friday afternoon. It went well and here are the photos.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74425&d=1506821703

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74426&d=1506821719

Mark Eaton

10-01-2017, 08:37 PM

Here are my painted sway bar mount plates.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74457&d=1506908008

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74458&d=1506908049

GoDadGo

10-01-2017, 09:16 PM

You're Off To One Heck Of A Good Start!

Mark Eaton

10-01-2017, 11:14 PM

Today after church was my 11yo's turn to come to the shop. I have been limiting it to one boy at a time in the shop with me. Anyone whom has boys this age will understand. We were able to assemble the spindles and install the CV axles to the spindles and control arms/toe arms. There is a disconnect here between the manual and reality on assembling the wheel hubs to the spindles. You don't have to knock out the old studs as shown in the manual and the bolts to attach the hubs are completely different than the ones pictured. I had read about it on other threads so wasn't a problem, however, a first time builder like myself can really sweat these things. It was not easy, alot of heavy lifting and full on wrestling for myself as well as the little guy. I had to get out the sledge hammer and vise grips again. We kept dropping things on the floor and on our feet. He had flip flops on and hopped around a bit but didn't complain. It took close to two hours which is about his attention limit. To buy time I let him use the pneumatic impact wrench to torque everything down. Note to self: if you want to keep an 11 yo boy interested let him use the pneumatic power tools...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74473&d=1506916298

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74474&d=1506916332

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74479&d=1506916574

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74478&d=1506916540

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74476&d=1506916396

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74477&d=1506916409

Finally, as promised, a trip to the shooting range on the way home...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74481&d=1506916608

Jazzman

10-02-2017, 12:07 AM

Finally, as promised, a trip to the shooting range on the way home...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74481&d=1506916608

Now that's the way to finish a great day with your son!! My son started shooting IDPA matches when he was just a bit older than your son. Had to get special training and permission, but he was approved. He did pretty well too!

You are really making great progress. Keep up the good work!

Yama-Bro

10-02-2017, 12:24 PM

Today after church was my 11yo's turn to come to the shop. I have been limiting it to one boy at a time in the shop with me. Anyone whom has boys this age will understand.

I know what you are talking about my boys are 7 and almost 13. Sometimes, I think they actually enjoy fighting and arguing with each other, they do it so much.

Mark Eaton

10-02-2017, 08:10 PM

Steve,

Thankyou sir! And I'm sorry to hear about your engine problems.

Paul2STL

10-02-2017, 09:38 PM

Mark just saw you tread for the first time. Nice progress I will be watching your build, I received my kit the day after you, was on the same truck. Mine was build on July 8 so I guess they sat together in the warehouse in Arizona for 6 weeks. Your making good progress I am just a little ahead of you. Looking good so far.

Mark Eaton

10-11-2017, 09:17 PM

mach'er

10-12-2017, 12:23 PM

Wow, great progress. And what a great build space!

You got your kit about a week prior to my delivery. I guess I'll have to get used to being slow. Either that, or I need to get my 11 & 13 year old daughters to join me in the garage to speed things up.

Did anyone give you feedback on the clear you were spraying on the aluminum? Looks like a good idea if it'll hold up.

Keep up the great updates and pictures. I appreciate the details.

Mark Eaton

10-12-2017, 11:52 PM

Thanks,
That's funny that you feel slow, I feel like I'm poking along. No feed back on the clear yet. I've been searching around I found some spray on POR15 that I'm going to try. I'll post photos when I do.

Get your girls in there. Like I said earlier I only bring one boy in at a time and I try to have things lined up and ready to go. That keeps them interested.

Mark Eaton

10-13-2017, 12:13 AM

So, it turns out you need a vent on the differential and the parts can be hard to find. I am lucky in that I believe the little silver plug which goes in the diff and the vent then attaches to came with my kit. I think these are the parts numbers FR3Z--A & 2L1Z-4022-BA. I haven't actually ordered the vent itself yet, I'm hoping it will turn up in one of my boxes. It looks like a little black rubber hose. Here is the plug thing.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75248&d=1507864885

And I think it goes in this top right side hole.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75249&d=1507864936

I forgot to take a photo with it in. I'm tempted to tap it in with a hammer. Someone said to use red loctite but I haven't done that yet.
In this next photo I am pointing at a threaded hole which I think is dead ended but I'm not sure what is supposed to thread into it. Does anybody know?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75251&d=1507864939

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75250&d=1507864937

Mark Eaton

10-13-2017, 12:35 AM

I think this was pretty straight forward. I had to grind at least an 1/8" off of the 1.09" spacers on the lower shock attachments on both sides. I felt like that was better than bending the tabs. Also, I'm tempted to cut off the excess sway bar holes...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75264&d=1507871996

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75263&d=1507871981

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75262&d=1507871966

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75261&d=1507871952

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75255&d=1507865140

Of course, everything is finger tight. That way when I realize I put together wrong it will be easier to redo...

Jazzman

10-13-2017, 09:02 PM

Nice progress Mark! Be sure to keep a running list of everything that still has to be torqued down tight. After I while it gets hard to remember what is done and what is not. You are wise to mark torqued bolts with the red marker paint. That really helps. Great job on the photos too!

Mark Eaton

10-16-2017, 12:37 AM

Here are my photos of this differential vent plug. It doesn't seat all the way down to the flange. I'm not sure if I should just leave it like that and use loctite or tap it in further with a hammer. It doesn't seem very sturdy and I'm concerned that hammering it will damage it, on the other hand it looks like if I leave it as is it will simply fall out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75431&d=1508131699

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75432&d=1508131719

Mark Eaton

10-16-2017, 01:04 AM

My front coil springs arrived so I installed them including the zip tie on the hats. I'm not sure how that helps and when I should remove the zips ties. Had to grind down one of the spacers a bit. My table grinder has turned into a very useful purchase. I also completed the front sway bar attachment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75436&d=1508133383

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75435&d=1508133371

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75434&d=1508133358

I haven't torqued any of it. I am a little confused about the lubrication of the sway bar. It is not obvious to me where to lube other than under the bushings. In the instructions it says to grease the ID on link eyes:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75437&d=1508133404

wareaglescott

10-16-2017, 05:37 AM

Looking good. Nice progress!
My differential vent seated further in than that. I used a rubber mallet to persuade it into position. It did not damage the piece at all.
You mention not being sure when to remove the zip ties. You just leave them on there permanently.

edwardb

10-16-2017, 07:24 AM

For your other question, lube the rubber bushings where the sway bar attaches to the chassis. Don't worry about the Heim joints with that lube. What you have is different than what is shown in those instructions.

Mark Eaton

10-26-2017, 09:48 PM

I purchased the Russ Thompson trunk box and throttle pedal. I would like to do a modification similar to 2bking's. I sent him a PM and he has been great about giving me instruction. However, mine is going to be far from his. I'm kind of making it up as I go. Here are the photos so far...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75980&d=1509071830

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75981&d=1509071870

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75982&d=1509071911

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75983&d=1509071951

This photo shows a battery box I purchased on Amazon for $34. I will modify it and have my battery on its side somehow...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75984&d=1509071994

2bking

10-26-2017, 11:50 PM

Glad to see you decided to do the "battery on it side" mod and your progress looks good. Obviously you frame and available space is different for the 2015 IRS but I think when you get it finished and by leading the way doing it, others will do it also. You will thank yourself every time you have to mess with the battery. Keep the pictures coming.

mach'er

10-27-2017, 08:07 AM

In this next photo I am pointing at a threaded hole which I think is dead ended but I'm not sure what is supposed to thread into it. Does anybody know?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75251&d=1507864939

That threaded hole is for a temperature sensor, used for the differential cooler kit (https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-4000-M8S) (see page 28, step 56, of the instructions for the kit). I had thoughts of adding the cooler, but decided it would just be for the sake of doing it - rather than adding something that was needed. So, I'm saving that mad money for other upgrades.

Mark Eaton

10-27-2017, 10:40 PM

Mark Eaton

10-27-2017, 10:43 PM

Oh right! Thanks Mach'er. I think I'll pass on the differential cooler kit as well

Mark Eaton

10-29-2017, 08:29 PM

Now that I know my rear spindles fit properly I decided to remove the hubs and knock out those Mustang studs and put in the Cobra studs. Actually, truth be told I overlooked that step when I first installed the spindles but thats ok because it goes with my new build modus operandi of "do it wrong the first time but keep going back and redoing it!"

I thought about not removing the hubs and just banging away at those studs. I mean, it couldn't be any more traumatic to the rear end than say sliding sideways into a curb at 40mph?? Also, this gives me a chance to really observe the relationship of the CV axle to the spindle and more importantly what a ABS sensor is looking at (another discussion).

My 11yo joined me in the shop but he quickly tired of my antics and decided crushing rocks in the bench vise was much more fun.

I struggled a bit at first because I had previously torqued the bolts with red locktite and with the CV axle in place there wasn't room for a 1/2" socket, I had to use my 3/8" socket with less leverage. After wrestling around with it for a while I realized that I own a 3/8" right angle pneumatic driver! Awesome!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76055&d=1509324312

Like everybody talks about in the threads knocking out the old studs with a hammer is pretty easy but putting in the new ones is challenging. I had thought this through quit a bit so instead of trying to bang in the new studs I went straight to my high impact wrench(700 ft/lbs or torque) as seen the the photos and pulled them in using the lug nut and washers shown. I don't remember what I paid for that high impact wrench but I absolutely love it, it is so useful. It pulled each stud in in about 15 seconds each.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76056&d=1509324344

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76057&d=1509324465

The thing that gets me is that in the manual it talks about torquing the wheel studs to 98 ft/lb, however, I'm not sure that matters after I just finished using 700 ft/lbs to pull them in... I was concerned that I might fracture the studs pulling them in that way so I was careful to stop as soon as they seated. No problems.

Now, ABS sensors. I am really interested in ABS. Clueless how to do it, but reading up on it. What I do know is that the sensors need to sense a spline type of ring. My front hubs have the ring but I'm not sure how it works in the rear. Here are photos.

This is the PS, I don't see anything.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76059&d=1509324522

This is DS, I see something for the sensor.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76058&d=1509324494

Whatever. I am going to start a separate thread about ABS to try to get more input from forum members.

Papa

10-29-2017, 08:43 PM

I purchased the Russ Thompson trunk box and throttle pedal. I would like to do a modification similar to 2bking's. I sent him a PM and he has been great about giving me instruction. However, mine is going to be far from his. I'm kind of making it up as I go. Here are the photos so far...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75983&d=1509071951

I'll defer to the experts, but when I was installing my FFMetal battery box, the install directions stressed not putting the box in front of the two tank mounting bars. This is to ensure that the tank can move forward in a rear end collision. With the modifications you are making, your tank won't be able to move if you get hit.

edwardb

10-29-2017, 09:01 PM

Now, ABS sensors. I am really interested in ABS. Clueless how to do it, but reading up on it. What I do know is that the sensors need to sense a spline type of ring. My front hubs have the ring but I'm not sure how it works in the rear. Here are photos.

This is the PS, I don't see anything.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76059&d=1509324522

This is DS, I see something for the sensor.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76058&d=1509324494

Whatever. I am going to start a separate thread about ABS to try to get more input from forum members.

The 2015+ IRS uses wheel bearings with a magnetic ABS pulse generator. A more modern take on the traditional tone rings used by various OEM's. Discussed in this post on the other forum: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/4823601-post18.html. Others have reported the output of the sensor can be used with traditional ABS controllers. But I've not tried to install ABS on any of my builds, so I can't offer any guidance. But thought I would at least give you and idea how it works and save more looking. :o

Mark Eaton

10-29-2017, 11:14 PM

Thanks for the input and the link, Paul. So I wouldn't have to worry about rear tone rings because I have fancy magnetic pulse generating wheel bearings. That's great!

Mark

Mark Eaton

10-29-2017, 11:16 PM

2bking

10-30-2017, 12:13 AM

I'll defer to the experts, but when I was installing my FFMetal battery box, the install directions stressed not putting the box in front of the two tank mounting bars. This is to ensure that the tank can move forward in a rear end collision. With the modifications you are making, your tank won't be able to move if you get hit.
I did this mod and was concerned about something kin to collision structure and safety but couldn't find any data. If FFR did any rear end collision testing, they haven't let the results be known. Without any testing, it's all speculation about different types of failure because of the variables such as the amount of gas in the tank, bumper heights, impact direction, rear axle configuration, and speed. While this is a subject that can spark a lot of discussion, I don't think it is dangerous modification. If I were a vendor building after market parts and could be held liable for consequences from using said parts, I would be cautioning the builders on installing my parts in ways other than what I intended such as, "not putting the box in front of the two tank mounting bars".

In the interest of making sure what we modify doesn't cause a safety concern, calling attention to the possible down side of the mod is good and should be appreciated. I certainly take no offense to your comment.

Papa

10-30-2017, 08:26 AM

Thanks for the advice Papa. I'll definitely look into this. I'm pretty sure I will have the battery in similar position as the FFMetal box except on its side. I will post more photos as I go which should make it more clear.

Mark,

I hope you didn't take offence to my comment. It was the added square tubing from the rear to the tank hanger bars that I was trying to point out. After looking at it again, it does look like things should still be able to move forward in a collision. I've been following your build and look forward to seeing your finished product.

Dave

Mark Eaton

10-30-2017, 11:07 PM

Dave,

No worries and no offense taken! Of course, I appreciate any heads up on what might make the vehicle at risk. I also appreciate King's input. Its hard to know without specific rear end collision testing what the right answer is. However , keeping things simple I feel like the more welded steel frame behind me is safer regardless of the location of the battery or the fuel tank.

Mark

Mark Eaton

11-02-2017, 11:09 PM

So I got the battery box installed and the trunk modified. I haven't altered the panels yet. I secured the box with 5/16" Rivnuts on its forward side and a single 10-32 rivnut on the DS, also I welded a support underneath it and threaded some bolts into that. So it is not welded in place and can be removed if needed. I am happy with the location. I feel comfortable that I haven't compromised the integrity of the chassis. Here are some photos.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76239&d=1509681238

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76238&d=1509681238

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76237&d=1509681238

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76236&d=1509681238

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76235&d=1509681238

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76234&d=1509681238

I will say that putting in those 5/16" rivnuts was a real pain in the neck. My Rivnut tool wouldn't do it. I looked at youtube and came up with an easy method using a bolt and two nuts and washers. I searched for Rivnut instal tools and there are some pneumatic ones which are several hundred dollars. It looks like even to top notch hand Rivnut tools are around $120. Not ready to pull the trigger on that yet.

WIS89

11-03-2017, 03:33 PM

Mark-

Here's what I picked up for inserting rivnuts, and I have been very happy with it:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are other similar ones as well. However, this one has worked well for me, and perhaps brings it in a price point that is a bit easier.

Keep up the good work. I like your trunk mod, and I think your battery box will be good. I also appreciated the guys that pointed out their concerns! I think it only adds value when folks share concerns when they think our safety is at risk.

I look forward to watching the rest of your progress; it's looking great!

Regards,

Steve

wareaglescott

11-03-2017, 03:43 PM

These things work awesome for rivnuts

https://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-tools/=1a3k19k

sbhunter

11-05-2017, 08:56 PM

What a fantastic experience for your boys. Have any of you considered having a fuel cell built for the space? They aren’t that expensive in the scheme of this build. There is very little metal behind the rear axle and the rods that hold the quick jacks look like spears aimed at the gas tank. If there is a thread on this already please redirect me.

Mark Eaton

11-05-2017, 10:50 PM

Fuel cell, you mean a battery which turns the wheels via electric motors? Something an electric powered hybrid car like a Prius would have? It seems to me that somebody did something like that... Not sure where you would see it. Maybe try YouTube. I'm not even remotely interested.

Mark Eaton

11-05-2017, 11:18 PM

This past week my Forte Dart 347 Stroker showed up! I couldn't be happier.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76436&d=1509939103

She's fuel injected with the Holley 550-510K Sniper system, Tremec TKO 600 trans with Quick Time bell housing, Hydraulic clutch.
Dyno tested 377 HP at 6250 RPM and 389 ft/lb torque at 4200 RPM!

So, I spent 6 hours(including a trip to hardware store) making this...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76437&d=1509939152

Look familiar? It is my Edwardb style engine stand. Had to modify it to this...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76438&d=1509939222

I thought about getting one of those $60 steel stands from china off the internet but this was much more appealing to me. I bought a 2x12" Oregon Douglas Fir board from Home Depot for $14.50 and used Lag screw and bolts I had in my extras drawer to make it. Its rock solid.
I finally finished and realized this...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76439&d=1509939267

Yep, the hoist won't slide under. I said a few choice words under my breath, my 11yo said "Dad, Lets just tilt it ourselves". I was blank for a while, kicking myself for not putting the crate on blocks. Then I thought of Archimedes and a light bulb went off. Levers!!!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76440&d=1509939343

It worked but took me over an hour...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76441&d=1509939381

If any new time builders are looking at this heed my advice and have them put your crate on blocks so that you can easily slide your hoist underneath to remove the engine.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76442&d=1509939412

Mark Eaton

11-05-2017, 11:29 PM

Here she is on the new stand

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76444&d=1509939505

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76443&d=1509939466

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76445&d=1509942300

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76446&d=1509942332

Looks a bit teetery but feels very solid. However, I must admit I am thinking about picking up some 2" angle iron and making a steel stand because I think I can make something easier to maneuver around. Plus I really enjoy welding... Of course, I'll post photos when I do that.

Jeff Kleiner

11-06-2017, 05:18 AM

Fuel cell, you mean a battery which turns the wheels via electric motors? Something an electric powered hybrid car like a Prius would have?...

Mark,
He's referring to a bladdered tank, AKA fuel cell:

https://fuelsafe.com/sm122a-aff/

Jeff

Railroad

11-06-2017, 09:26 AM

Cannot tell from the pics for sure, the bolts you are lifting from, exhaust stud holes, be sure the pull the chain link up close to the head. You do not want to lift with the bolt at length. I hope that makes some kind of sense and you may be doing it right. I just do not want to hear about a broken head nightmare.
Beautiful engine!

Mark Eaton

11-06-2017, 10:08 PM

Thanks for the input Railroad,

I have bolts in the header bolt holes, they are 3/8" 8.8 bolts. Looked it up on YouTube. I screwed the bolts in all the way but they may be a little long. I certainly don't want a broken head nightmare!

Mark

Mark Eaton

11-06-2017, 10:16 PM

Mark,
He's referring to a bladdered tank, AKA fuel cell:

https://fuelsafe.com/sm122a-aff/

Jeff

Thanks Jeff,

I totally missed that. So, its like a $2700 gas tank which is safer than the standard gas tank?

Mark

sbhunter

11-07-2017, 05:06 PM

Mark Eaton

11-08-2017, 01:35 AM

Sbhunter, I appreciate your input, I am all about safety and this has been on my mind since Kleiner clarified it. I had never heard of these prior.

edwardb

11-08-2017, 07:01 AM

Sorry for the confusion. In Indiana, a fuel cell is a gas tank for race cars. Essentially a safer fuel tank. 20 gallon fuel cells are a couple hundred dollars but square and not conducive to our application. I have no idea how they can ask $2700 for that. My dad had one custom built for his boat that was stainless steel, T shaped, 30 gallons and cost less than $600. That is what I was thinking. I like your trunk drop modification. I am planning on doing the same.

Sbhunter, I appreciate your input, I am all about safety and this has been on my mind since Kleiner clarified it. I had never heard of these prior.

A fuel cell style gas tank is mandatory for certain racing sanctioning organizations. They have several purposes, including helping to reduce/prevent fuel spilling onto the track. This is a pretty good explanation with more details: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00128.

Not going to debate that they're safer than the traditional Mustang tank that thousands have used for these builds. But for street driving and occasional track use where they're not required, probably overkill. Not commonly used on non-competition versions of these builds. Very expensive, higher maintenance and recurring costs, and will require mods to your rear chassis/trunk area including reducing trunk space. Also not compatible with the LeMans style external fuel cap.

Mark Eaton

11-20-2017, 02:16 AM

I took a couple days off and my brother came to town to help with the build. We assembled the engine,tranny, headers in prep for initial install. I went ahead and put on the PS cat and side pipes because I couldn't help myself. Here is my brother with the assembly thus far...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76905&d=1511161151

We hoisted the engine off my steel cradle and put on the engine mounts. The mounts are not flush at any of the four securing sites. I torqued them all to 100 ft/lb.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76908&d=1511161292

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76907&d=1511161250

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76906&d=1511161202

It looks like I need to go to work on the block with my angle grinder, or bend the mounts to fit better. I resisted the urge. Any thoughts?

Mark Eaton

11-20-2017, 02:34 AM

I wasn't going to let the catywhompous engine mounts stop me from my initial engine install, so we forged ahead. I shot a time-lapse photo series not realizing I can't save individual photos from it. Therefore, I don't have all the key photos of it going in.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76911&d=1511162518

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76910&d=1511162486

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76909&d=1511162432

It didn't just "drop" on in there in a few minutes like during the build school. We must have wrestled with it for 2 or 3 hours. I'm not sure I learned anything except maybe to use large screwdrivers as levers to compress the bushings on the engine mounts to get them to fall down into their slots.

wareaglescott

11-20-2017, 06:50 AM

Looking good. I am enjoying watching the progress.
Have you test fit the pipes with the cats since the engine has been in the car? This is the first time I have seen someone use cats and am wondering how they fit.

Vspeeds

11-20-2017, 07:10 AM

Mark
Your build is moving forward at a good pace. Looks like you did fabricate the steel engine stand. Keep up with the updates. Im enjoying watching your build.

With time and money constraints, my build is going slower than expected. However, I am purchasing some minor parts that I wanted ( not needed)

Jeff Kleiner

11-20-2017, 07:14 AM

Mark,
Not sure what you've got going on there but you can't leave the engine mounts that way. Whatever is amiss probably explains why you had so much difficulty getting it into place. Maybe some additional photos would help us see what is causing the issues with the poor fit.

Although it doesn't matter at this time just as an FYI you have the driver's side pipe on the passenger side in your mock up photo.

Keep us updated and good luck moving forward!

Jeff

edwardb

11-20-2017, 07:24 AM

Agree 100% with Jeff you can't leave the engine mounts that way. Assuming you have the right mounts (most likely) my guess is you have interference from the DART SHP block you mention in the first post. The DART blocks have an additional web around the engine mount bolts that aren't on a stock block. Take a closer look and you'll probably see what I'm talking about. Use a die grinder or whatever and notch the motor mount in that location. It doesn't take much and they should sit flat. Tweak the mounts, not the DART block. :eek:

Mark Eaton

11-20-2017, 11:06 AM

Mark Eaton

11-20-2017, 11:09 AM

Mark Eaton

11-20-2017, 09:41 PM

So, I pulled the engine out (I taped up the intake and covered it with a blanket)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76953&d=1511230705

I am positive that I had the mounts on the correct sides. Here is how I had them...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76955&d=1511230801

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76954&d=1511230768

you can kind of see where they were notched by the DART block

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76957&d=1511230871

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76956&d=1511230842

It does look like I can pretty easily just grind out the area where the mount is "notched". I found a mustang forum with a big discussion on this, ie putting DART blocks in mustangs. Most of the builders were grinding the mounts and not the block. Some of them were grinding the blocks. Someone brought up a website Maximum Motorsports which sells a solid mount that fits perfectly without problem. I am concerned that with a solid motor mount I will have more vibration. Don't like that idea. I sent a email to Forte, surely he has a good resolution answer...

Mark Eaton

11-20-2017, 09:54 PM

Here are photos of the DART SHP block with the mounts removed. You can see the "webs" around the engine mount bolts sites which are causing all the trouble.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76959&d=1511230943

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76958&d=1511230909

I put my DART SHP 347 Stroker back on my steel cradle which took way too long to make :cool:
And, yes, it does list to Starboard. Hey , anybody can make a symmetric engine stand.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76960&d=1511231064

I hope that any new builders whom are planning a DART SHP engine see this thread... Like I sad before, when we initially installed the engine mounts they didn't bolt down flush. We figured it would be ok. I am so thankful to the forum members who noticed and stopped my erroneus progression.

edwardb

11-20-2017, 10:46 PM

I'm a little confused by your pictures. I see the notches carved into the frame mounts. Really hoping that's not related to this issue. Those notches shouldn't be required. At least not for the DART SHP block or the Energy Suspension motor mounts. My response to you previously was based on actual experience with my #7750 Mk4 Roadster build. I also had a DART SHP stroked to 347 and ran into the interference with the Energy Suspension motor mounts and the added webs on the DART SHP block. I contacted my engine builder (Fordstrokers in the Chicago area, very well known and respected) suggesting I trim the DART SHP block. He said "no way" and to put notches in the Energy Suspension mounts to clear. Said it was an easy fix. It's a small notch and in no way compromises the strength of the mount. That's what I did and the build was completed. Just finished it's third driving season, now with a different owner. All good. Great running engine BTW. I looked through my build pictures hoping to show how I notched the mounts, but couldn't find any.

As you found with your research, this is a common problem. Also as you found, not everyone fixes it the same way. Cut an $1800 block or $100 motor mounts. Easy choice IMO, especially since it's an effective fix. Lots of guys use solid mounts, but that's a whole other discussion. I certainly wouldn't for this reason alone. Just not necessary.

2bking

11-21-2017, 03:09 AM

This problem is like a two edged sword. You can take some strength out of a big part or some out of a small part but either way there are some consequences. I would try to slot the holes in the mount so neither part gets a spanking. It will change the center distance between the mounts slightly but not reduce the strength. Some small pattern washers or a beveled edge on standard ones may be required to fit under the heads of the bolts because the slot will move the heads closer to the bend radius in the mounts.

Jeff Kleiner

11-21-2017, 06:13 AM

I'm with Paul---don't cheese up the block. Yes, the mounts are shown on the proper sides.

Jeff

Mark Eaton

11-22-2017, 12:07 AM

Thanks for the input guys. I'm not planning on and haven't altered the block at all. I'm in contact with Forte. I'll try to send photos which make it more obvious.

cgundermann

11-22-2017, 10:16 PM

Exact issue when installing another forum member's DART block; notched the mounts and it went right in...

Chris

Mark Eaton

11-24-2017, 10:14 PM

I notched the engine mounts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77068&d=1511579507

Had to get a little aggessive with this one. Good thing its grade 8 steel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77069&d=1511579507

Mark Eaton

11-24-2017, 10:35 PM

Here are my newly mounted and custom fitted motor mounts!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77061&d=1511578656

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77060&d=1511578522

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77065&d=1511578793

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77064&d=1511578770

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77062&d=1511578699

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77063&d=1511578730

GD that set me back a few days!! If i see a newby like myself talking about using a DART SHP I am definitely going to give him the heads up on the engine mount issue.

And to address Edwardb's question about the frame mounts, I didn't not alter or notch them other than to just beat the hell out of them during my initial engine install. Looks like they are going to be ok.

cgundermann

11-25-2017, 07:21 PM

Nicely done! Adapt & overcome...

Mark Eaton

11-26-2017, 12:41 AM

I had a few hours to work on my trunk mod mock up today. I think I finally see how I'm going to complete this...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77110&d=1511674598

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77111&d=1511674635

Straversi

11-26-2017, 11:10 AM

That's pretty slick. It never would have occurred to me to mount a battery on its side.
-Steve

Mark Eaton

11-26-2017, 09:59 PM

Thanks Steve,

I copied it from 2bking's build. Of course, so far I have fallen short of the original but I think it'll work

cgundermann

11-26-2017, 11:49 PM

Thanks Steve,

I copied it from 2bking's build. Of course, so far I have fallen short of the original but I think it'll work

That's cool, I did the FF Metal battery box mod - that looks easier...

broku518

11-27-2017, 12:12 PM

Here are my newly mounted and custom fitted motor mounts!

...If i see a newby like myself talking about using a DART SHP I am definitely going to give him the heads up on the engine mount issue.

.

Hi Mark,
I have the same DART block from Mike Forte. Was excited about your progress, not anymore after seeing the mounts issue LOL!
My engine is still sitting on shipping mounts, so I am not sure if I truly have this issue. Will keep you posted.

Thanks,
Martin

Mark Eaton

11-27-2017, 11:21 PM

Martin,

Goodluck! I'll follow your thread. It will be interesting to see if you have the same problem.

Mark

broku518

12-06-2017, 12:32 PM

Hi Mark,
You inspired me with your trunk mod. I was thinking about doing something with the trunk area. After seeing your pictures I figured I can do that as well.
I like the battery on its side as well.

One tiny problem was that I didn't have a welding machine. So I searched Amazon and bought one for $99 bucks! For this small project it is a perfect fit.
Last time I welded was back in the high school, but I am sure with some practice it will come back.

Thanks,
Martin

robertjamesellis

12-07-2017, 04:43 PM

Mark,

I like your drop trunk modifications and might do the same. I don't have my tank on hand yet, but was wondering if you had looked ahead enough to make sure there would be no interference from the gas tank. I'm assuming not from what I've seen elsewhere but just wanted to check in in case you had looked into that. Great job and you are moving fast on the project!!!

Rob

Mark Eaton

12-08-2017, 12:28 AM

Thanks Rob,

I don't think that there is going to be any interference with the trunk. I have installed the tank several times to check but I have't yet completely set up the tank. I'm currently painting the panels and will post of mock up with the fuel tank in place to illustrate. The access panel at the bottom of the drop part of the trunk is a little off and not exactly directly over the sending unit access port but I don't think it will be a problem.

Mark

Mark Eaton

12-08-2017, 12:30 AM

GoDadGo

12-08-2017, 09:20 AM

Love Your Trunk Mods & Battery Location!

Mark Eaton

12-11-2017, 01:32 AM

I painted the trunk panels with a spray on POR 15. Unfortunately, I ran out of paint and can only get it online. So, that will be on hold until january. I also made a battery box out of 1/8' aluminum. I still need to grind down the welds to make them look good but wanted to post the photos.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77673&d=1512973427

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77674&d=1512973467

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77675&d=1512973523

Mark Eaton

12-11-2017, 01:57 AM

I installed the Differential vent starting with hammering in the nipple with a dead blow hammer, the rubber mallet wouldn't do it. I was worried I would smash it but it went in ok.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77679&d=1512974364

And here is the cheap looking plastic part that plugs into it. Thanks to Edwardb, Wareaglescott, and Jazzman, i didn't have to go see the geniuses at Ford to get it.

I ordered it online from tasca parts

http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/musta...part_name=vent.

--part numbers are FR3Z-4A058-A

& 2L1Z-4022-BA.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77676&d=1512974055

Of course I cut it to fit better, I didn't want it sticking up around the wheel well.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77677&d=1512974101

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77678&d=1512974158

I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent. Also, I didn't use any sort of adhesive to secure the cheap plastic tube part to the metal nipple. Not sure what to put on there to keep it from popping off and opening my closed system (differential). I'll have to remember to crawl under the car every now and then and check on it.

wareaglescott

12-11-2017, 06:55 AM

I didn't use any sort of adhesive on the vent either. 3500 miles so far and no issues. (Of course now I will be checking it again today! haha)

Jeff Kleiner

12-11-2017, 07:11 AM

I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent.

Because as the fluid heats up it expands and the air in the housing must be allowed to exit freely (then return when it cools).

Jeff

TexasAviator

12-13-2017, 12:08 AM

I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent. Also, I didn't use any sort of adhesive to secure the cheap plastic tube part to the metal nipple. Not sure what to put on there to keep it from popping off and opening my closed system (differential). I'll have to remember to crawl under the car every now and then and check on it.

I will add if you don't vent the case the air will expand as the gears warm up and will force oil out your seals. When it cools you then have a vacuum in the case again messing with your seals and possibly injesting water or dirt over time. It allows the case to regulate pressure as Jeff said already.

I envy the guys that can afford the full kit especially with the irs. I have to hunt things down and get creative with my budget.

Great work mark.

broku518

12-15-2017, 03:39 PM

[QUOTE=Mark Eaton;302213]I took a couple days off and my brother came to town to help with the build. We assembled the engine,tranny, headers in prep for initial install. I went ahead and put on the PS cat and side pipes because I couldn't help myself. Here is my brother with the assembly thus far...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76905&d=1511161151

Hi Mark.
Question about the tko600 and bellhousing join. I am prepping to do that soon. Someone suggested that I should dial indicate the bellhousing first. So I called M.Forte to check with him if this was done. He said no, but mentioned that quicktime bellhousing is very well made, thus isn't really needed.

So here I am, thinking what is the right thing to do. Check OR not. It also involved clutch removal. I have no idea how to do that. Plus, don't even have the tools.

Looking at your build, have you done this part?

Thanks,
Martin

Mark Eaton

12-18-2017, 09:26 PM

Martin,

So I guess you have your answer from the other thread. I am ordering a dial indicator with magnetic base, clutch alignment tool and a crank turning nut from Summit. We have the same engine, therefore I think the Proform parts 67441 turning nut is what you need and the ACT Clutch Alignment Tools ATFC10. At least I think this is correct. I was ambivalent to remove the clutch but have decided to go ahead and remove it. I mean, what the hell...

I need to get the torque specifications from Forte. I'll let you know what they are when i get them.

I'll post photos for fun, of course!

Mark

broku518

12-21-2017, 09:59 PM

Hi Mark,

I put the engine on the lift today and checked the mounts. Yep, same problem. Easy fix, just like yours.

Thanks,
Martin

Jazzman

12-24-2017, 02:26 AM

[QUOTE=Mark Eaton;302213]
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76905&d=1511161151

Just FYI Mark. That exhaust pipe you have attached to the right side of the engine actually goes on the left side. The tab that points up currently should be on the bottom inside of the pipe facing the center of the car, and the flat opening surface of the end of the pipe should point pretty much straight sideways. I suspect you already knew this, but just in case. . .

Mark Eaton

12-25-2017, 01:08 PM

Jazzman

12-26-2017, 11:27 PM

Thanks Kevin,

Yeah, Kleiner already pointed that out to me. I had just hooked it up for fun. You know, I prefer to put everything together wrong the first time then redo it. I learn more that way...

And speaking of side pipes I was reading your thread about the side pipes. That sounded frustrating with the welder totally miscalculating his time. I'm thinking about buying some of those flow masters and welding them on myself. That way I can screw it up myself and not rely on the geniuses at the welding shop.

I will probably wait and see how loud they are for me, though. I am the only parent I know who has to turn down the rock music in the car because it is too loud for my teenager!

Mark

I should have known that there was nothing I would notice that Kleiner wouldn't have already seen!! Glad he caught it. It's nice to know that you are following in the established tradition of "screw up once, do the same job twice". Don't feel like you are alone in that methodology!

I am really growing to like the Flowmasters sound, and the look is growing on me. The best part may be the significant temperature protection. With your kids around your car, that could be a real deciding factor. The temperature reduction is very significant over the stock FFR pipes. I wish I had thought to measure the working temperature of the FFR's before I had them chopped up. I don't know the exact difference, but I can touch the Flowmasters much longer than I ever could the FFR's. I don't TIG weld, so I couldn't do it myself. If you decide to do it yourself, talk to 2BKing. I had a very nice email from him after my original post about the frustrations of having them built. It is his opinion (and I think I concur) that while they dramatically underestimated their time, the work they did was solid and the time was not excessive for someone that had not done these pipes before. Apparently the angles of the welds are slightly different from right to left. 2BKing has made some sort of a jig to get these angles correct. The shop that did my pipes did not have that advantage.

I have to turn down the music too, but only because my bride tells me to. She says I am going deaf. When I can hear her, I tell her she is wrong! Rock on, Doc!

Mark Eaton

12-27-2017, 12:14 PM

Rock On, Kevin!

When the time comes I will definitely PM 2BKing, that guy is a wealth of good information.

SerpantFL

12-28-2017, 09:27 PM

Hi Mark,
I am new to the Forum, but have been following the build threads should I find the amazing space you have to work with, and be blessed with the talent that many others have to make the parts fit and run.

I noticed from reading another thread that the top bolts on your outboard upper control arms were assembled with the bolt side down. Someone commented cleverly that if the nut comes loose, the bolt falls out. I am sure that you have caught that upon final torqueing of the bolts, but thought to mention it anyway. No disrespect intended, have enjoyed the build so far. Best of luck with the car.

GoDadGo

12-28-2017, 10:08 PM

jwd

12-28-2017, 11:32 PM

I have a secondary location in Medford and can help with any parts you might need . Would love to stop by and see the build

Mark Eaton

12-30-2017, 01:44 PM

Hey Mark,

I really think that shorty headers & cats up front will knock the noise down enough so that it won't be overbearingly loud.
Just my "Chevy Opinion" so good luck and be careful and keep an eye on your hands while working on your beast.

Steve

Thanks Steve,

I'm sure you are right, and don't worry I always wear gloves and protective eyewear. And no beer until the work is done;)

BTW, I was watching one of your Youtube vids, I really like that quick release steering wheel . What is the brand?

Mark

Mark Eaton

12-30-2017, 01:44 PM

I have a secondary location in Medford and can help with any parts you might need . Would love to stop by and see the build

Definetely come by. I'll send you a PM

Mark

Mark Eaton

12-30-2017, 01:45 PM

mach'er

01-03-2018, 11:34 AM

Thanks for the pics and details on the engine mounts with the Dart block. I've got the same block, and I'm glad I saw your write-up.

Build looks great!

Mark Eaton

01-04-2018, 12:27 AM

Thanks for the pics and details on the engine mounts with the Dart block. I've got the same block, and I'm glad I saw your write-up.

Build looks great!

You bet, I'm glad it was helpful.

Mark Eaton

01-08-2018, 01:13 AM

I had purchased the Energy Suspension tie rod and UCA Dust boots on Amazon, part numbers 9.13101G and 5.13102G. They were only like $14 and I wasn't sure I would put them on. It seemed like a lot of extra work but I figure its easier now than later. I was glad I got them because when I went to inspect the FFR boots I noticed the left UCA boot was cracked in one spot and actually had a hole in another.

Here is the crack

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78822&d=1515390606

and the hole/tear

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78823&d=1515390623

Here are the new boots from Energy Suspension. sorry about the quality of these photos.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78824&d=1515390640

The LCA boots looked good. I'm not sure why this happened but I'm guessing its because the front suspension had been "hanging" for a couple of months because I was waiting on my coil springs? It looked like maybe they got pinched against the spindle assembly in that position.

Just before I wrapped up for the evening I over tightened the locknut on the pivot shaft of my left UCA. The gasket ruptured. I can't believe I dd that :mad: Really?! did I really do that??? UGHHH!!!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78825&d=1515390656

TexasAviator

01-08-2018, 01:26 AM

I understand your frustration. I feel like I move fwd and then have to go back and redo something else.

Mark Eaton

01-08-2018, 09:57 PM

I mocked up the fuel tank and went to install it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78886&d=1515465755

Hard to see in the photo but one of cross bars is blocking the tank from coming all the way up.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78887&d=1515465788

I realized when I first measured I hadn't bent down the sides of the tank :rolleyes: Hmm. No worries, here is where I am with the fix.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78888&d=1515465823

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78889&d=1515465848

I'm learning to be more proactive about reading ahead in the manual. And, I know, I need to make sure there will be no issues with the rear wiring harness...

I'm planning to PM robertjamesellis of this issue before he tries this mod.

robertjamesellis

01-08-2018, 10:41 PM

No PM needed. I've been keeping up with your thread. Thanks for the heads up on this. My tank is on order from Breeze and when It gets hear I'm going to tackle the trunk modification. I'll take note of this. Thanks for making the sacrifice for me and finding those hiccups before I do! :)

Straversi

01-08-2018, 11:03 PM

Don’t beat yourself up. I have a decent sized scrap pile of brackets and braces made and re-made. It’s all part of the education. Gotta enjoy the process.
-Steve

Mark Eaton

01-08-2018, 11:13 PM

Theoretically the differential fluid status of the IRS from FFR should be pretty simple, however, Jazzman and Edwardb both drained theirs and had to refill with new fluid. It hasn't been completely clear to me where the drain hole and fill holes are. I took an educated guess and opened what I think is the "fill" hole and used a pipet (just like in High school chemistry) to check for fluid. Sure enough, clear yellow clean rear diff fluid!

The red arrow is the fill hole where I put the pipet and I assume the yellow arrow is the drain hole.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78898&d=1515470000

I think I just saved myself $50 in differential fluid. Ask me how I know!

Maybe that will pay for that pivot shaft bushing that I blew out over the weekend...

Mark Eaton

01-21-2018, 10:39 PM

I took out my steering shaft and installed two set screws to keep it from wobbling. They are 1/4"-20.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79588&d=1516590171

I have a Holley Sniper EFI with my DART 347 and it came with an "inline" fuel pump. I made a bracket to mount it on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79589&d=1516590355

I mounted it just behind the differential. Holley website says to get it as low as the lowest part of the fuel tank and as close to the tank as possible. Couldn't find a lot of threads demonstrating this, it seems that most people use the "in tank" pumps. I figure I'll go with it, at least until I run over a skunk or raccoon and it gets yanked off...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79590&d=1516590371

Finally, started working on my rear Wilwood brake install. Got the hats and rotors put together using red locktite and my inch/lb torque wrench! Used my $10 Harbor freight safety wire twisting pliers ( which work great! ) to apply the twisting wire.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79591&d=1516591206

Incidentally, for any new builders like myself, Wilwood brakes are great but be careful because they paint (powder coat?) right over the bolt or nut threads. This makes it difficult the first time you install them to thread the bolts/nuts, its easy to cross thread them which can be a very expensive mistake (Ask me how I know !). I read one forum member who was a helicopter mechanic recommending you should always tap or die important threads. Tap and die sets range from like $30 on Amazon to hundreds of dollars. I started with the Amazon $30 set, after I broke two taps I went to Harbor Freight and got their upgraded $85 Titanium sets, both metric and SAE, and have been very happy with them. I also use Tap Magic cutting fluid.

GoDadGo

01-22-2018, 06:42 PM

Looks Like You Are Rolling Right Along!

Mark Eaton

01-29-2018, 10:06 PM

I got the rear Wilwood brakes installed. It went smoothly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80047&d=1517280785

I do have a question . I used thread sealer where the White arrow is and did not on the Blue arrows. Should I?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80048&d=1517280816

I struggled with the E brake all weekend. Had multiple little frustrating issues. I'm hoping to finish it this weekend before the Super Bowl. The good news is that it will be a solid functioning weather proof install.

Mark Eaton

01-29-2018, 10:17 PM

My 14 yo helped me this weekend in prepping and painting a bunch of panels.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80050&d=1517280946

He prepped and painted them all while I was wrestling with my E Brakes and rear brakes. I was really proud of him. It was a lot of work. Here is the paint he used.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80049&d=1517280922

The result: My panels look like they have been painted by a 14 yo boy :o. And I'm just fine with that!!

If I didn't have kids this age I would just have the whole lot powder coated for about the same price.

As promised for his effort I gave him his first lesson in MIG welding.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80051&d=1517281074

Not bad for his first weld!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80052&d=1517281111

It was a good weekend:o

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80053&d=1517281140

edwardb

01-29-2018, 10:34 PM

I do have a question. I used thread sealer where the White arrow is and did not on the Blue arrows. Should I?

Correct. Yes sealant on the 1/8-27 NPT fitting where it goes into the caliper. The taper on NPT threads along with a sealant material allows them to form a seal. I use Permatex or Loctite sealant from a local parts store.

No sealant on the -3AN fittings on the flex hose. AN fittings seal via a metal-to-metal tapered seat. You didn't ask, but seems many do. Also no sealant on the double flared brake lines once you start doing those. They also seal via a metal-to-metal tapered seat. When doing those, a little lubricant on the double flare and tube nut threads is a good idea. You need to crank those down pretty good, and lube helps them seat properly. I use a touch of brake fluid.

Mark Eaton

01-29-2018, 10:42 PM

Thank you edwardb

Yama-Bro

01-30-2018, 04:05 PM

Trading paint for a welding lesson is a pretty good deal for both of you.

Mark Eaton

02-07-2018, 12:19 AM

I got the E-brake finished, edwardb/carlewms style.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80547&d=1517978819

I didn't use the pulley from McMasters. I was at our local Farmers supply store and found these pulleys rated at 480lbs each and weather coated! Bonus!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80548&d=1517978862

I then removed the E-brake to put in the PS foot box and floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80551&d=1517979528

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80549&d=1517979480

Rather than leaving them finger tight with clecos I went crazy and used Silicone and rivets.

I also replaced my ruptured UCA pivot bracket gaskets with new ones from Summit. Interestingly, the Gaskets by themselves were $20 but they also sell the pivot bracket with the gasket already in it for $25.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80553&d=1517979751

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80552&d=1517979732

Finally, I got some work done on the pedal box.

Mark Eaton

02-11-2018, 11:18 PM

Spent the weekend working on more cockpit panels. I am not riveting anything else at this point, just drilling and using clecos.

I also adjusted the rebound on all of the shocks. Two of them were on the lowest setting (J Kleiner's recommendation), one was set at mid resistance and one was on full resistance. So, I was glad I did it, they are all the same and at lowest setting or softest now. I didn't have to remove the rear shocks to do it, I just unbolted the upper attachment site. On the front shocks I found it easier to remove them. I went ahead and shortened my front swayer bushings and I think they look better now. Other than alignment, hopefully I won't have to mess with my front suspension any more.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80781&d=1518407991

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80783&d=1518408040

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80782&d=1518408017

shark92651

02-27-2018, 06:51 AM

Hey Mark. I'm new to the forum and skimmed over your thread so I apologize if you mentioned this already. I notice the rivets on the front of your footbox are different than the rivets inside your cockpit. Are you using something other than the FFR supplied rivets in certain areas? If so, why?

Thanks,
David

Mark Eaton

02-27-2018, 11:54 PM

shark92651

02-28-2018, 05:01 PM

David, Those are Ultimate rivets from Summit Racing SUM-ABS4246LURR2 . They are 1/8" rivets I bought because they are black. I thought about painting the panels black and then changed my mind. I felt like trying them on those panels anyway and i like the way they look. However I plan to put Lizard skin over the whole thing so it won't really matter.

cheers,
Mark

Ok thanks, I just wasn't sure if you wanted rivets with larger heads of something. If the rivets that ship with the kit are good enough then I'll just stick to those.

Mark Eaton

03-11-2018, 12:55 AM

Last weekend a buddy helped me drop the engine in again. I was going to do it with my 14yo boy only but I was glad I didn't. The adult hand was helpful, we got it in in 2hr 20min this time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82427&d=1520746341

She's still a bit high in the Fame mounts but definitely more comfortable with the "adjusted" engine mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82428&d=1520746372

Some initial mock up of heater, wiper, subwoofer location...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82429&d=1520746429

That's a RPC 52oz overflow tank I got from JEGS, I really like these FFR radiator hoses

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82430&d=1520746462

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82432&d=1520746523

Mark Eaton

03-11-2018, 01:01 AM

My son Tom showing one possible location of the ABS module

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82431&d=1520746489

Mark Eaton

03-11-2018, 08:55 PM

I used the fancy iPhone app from Tremec that Sbhunter talked about to set my pinion angle today. It worked great! Here is the photo of the app before the spacers and then after with the corrected pinion angle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82470&d=1520819150

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82472&d=1520819183

It was easy to use. Here's the "eyeball" pinion angle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82473&d=1520819222

Here are the spacers. I made them myself, obviously.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82474&d=1520819244

Mark Eaton

03-11-2018, 11:41 PM

I switched the shift turret on my tko 600 from the most aft position to the next forward. Finally a mod that doesn't cost anything and didn't take forever. I was thinking about a mid shift conversion but it turns out that this put the shifter in a comfortable position for me.

here is before and after.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82475&d=1520829031

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82477&d=1520829143

sbhunter

03-12-2018, 02:24 PM

He,y the TREMEC app didn’t cost anything either. I guess it’s not actually a mod though. I was surprised how well it worked and how easy it was to use. Car is looking great!!

Mark Eaton

03-25-2018, 09:17 PM

It's a little premature but I couldn't help but toss on the wheels, cats, and side pipes, lower her down and check the ride height. 4-1/2" in front and 5-1/8" in rear, also about 1/16" lower on the DS. Over all I'm surprised at how good that is given I put on the coil over shock assembly with no experience (finger tight :) ). Of course I will tweek the heck out of these later on. I was going to do my first alignment but I am waiting on my turn plates from Longacre.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83052&d=1522029380

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83053&d=1522029412

I also re-routed my rear brake flex lines so they would be easier to access when the build is complete.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83058&d=1522029703

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83057&d=1522029683

Next up I will put on the body for a fitting. Looking for any advice on that, I know Martin recently put his on. I will read his thread for the advice.

shark92651

03-25-2018, 10:06 PM

Looking good Mark! It's really looking like a car now.

edwardb

03-25-2018, 10:34 PM

I also re-routed my rear brake flex lines so they would be easier to access when the build is complete...

I'm not sure it's good practice to route the brake flex line through the suspension like that. Close to the UCA, CV axle and coilover. In an earlier picture you had the flex line attachment behind the suspension. That keeps it clear of everything and is the better choice IMO. Maybe some others have feedback. I wouldn't normally say anything regarding personal preferences. But this seems like a safety issue to me.

Mark Eaton

03-25-2018, 11:03 PM

Thanks for the input Paul, I thought about that but it looks like it clears them pretty well. I'll try to take some more photos this week to illustrate. Further, unless I'm mistaken that is the second option listed for flexible flexible brake line mounts with IRS on the October 2017 version build manual, page 205. They ran it over the UCA, I ran it under because it looked like there was more room.

Jazzman

03-26-2018, 12:32 AM

Some initial mock up of heater, wiper, subwoofer location...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82429&d=1520746429

I can't wait to see/hear/feel that subwoofer! Yes, it's crazy, but it's fun! May I suggest a minor modification of location? In order to keep the speaker as far away from the heat of the engine and exhaust system as possible, as well as attempt to avoid it being damaged by rocks and water while driving, would you want to mount the subwoofer in the top of the PS footbox inboard of the frame rail facing downward? You could then encase the subwoofer in a sealed box on top of the footbox. Just a thought.

Your car is coming along great! We are all enjoying building your car vicariously. Thanks for posting!!

Mark Eaton

03-26-2018, 08:49 PM

I can't wait to see/hear/feel that subwoofer! Yes, it's crazy, but it's fun! May I suggest a minor modification of location? In order to keep the speaker as far away from the heat of the engine and exhaust system as possible, as well as attempt to avoid it being damaged by rocks and water while driving, would you want to mount the subwoofer in the top of the PS footbox inboard of the frame rail facing downward? You could then encase the subwoofer in a sealed box on top of the footbox. Just a thought.

Your car is coming along great! We are all enjoying building your car vicariously. Thanks for posting!!

Thats a great idea on the subwoofer. I'm actually thinking about putting a powered subwoofer in the trunk with a "inlet" into the cockpit and maybe putting 6 x 9" speakers in the PS and DS foot-box and 3" midrange in the door panels and maybe 1" tweeters in the dash or nearby... Music is a BIG deal to me and I need to overcome the 80-100dB of engine and road noise. I don't care what the neighbors think.

BTHWarrior

03-27-2018, 02:15 PM

My son Tom showing one possible location of the ABS module

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82431&d=1520746489

That is the location I used for my ABS controller Unit. I had to make a bracket from angle iron to bolt the factory bracket to.

Mark Eaton

04-06-2018, 07:53 PM

Here is a photo of location option #2 for rear brake flex line from the digital manual, Oct 2017 version.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83651&d=1523061443

I believe this is the same view of the way I did it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83652&d=1523061482

It looks like I place it about two inches lower and on the fore side of the square tube than in the manual. That wasn't my intent. The question is should I move it to the same position as in the manual?? The routing looked better below the UCA which does bring it closer to the CV axle. I think it clears the coil over pretty well. Any opinions?

Mark Eaton

04-10-2018, 10:40 PM

I don't know how this looks to you guys but it looks DAMN good to me!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83938&d=1523416878

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83939&d=1523416922

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83940&d=1523416949

Was planning to rivet the CNC reservoir bracket I made to the inside of the frame here. Its a little tight but there seems to be room. I think I got the idea from a photo Dave Hodgkins posted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83941&d=1523417068

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83942&d=1523417127

Oh, and is there a dog seat belt mod?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83943&d=1523417155

broku518

04-11-2018, 08:59 AM

Nice and low, dang, Mark, that car looks shiny! Great progress, ended up trimming anything?

Martin

Mark Eaton

04-12-2018, 12:29 AM

Thanks Martin, I only ground out the roll bar holes a little bit. Haven't had a chance to read much about the body fitting or trimming yet. But I needed to get some general measurements for other things, like the CNC reservoirs, radiator hose, my ABS brake module, stereo and speakers. Stuff like that.

wareaglescott

04-12-2018, 05:40 AM

Looking good! I like the blacked out roll bars. Are you doing the pipes and any other parts to match?

Mark Eaton

04-13-2018, 11:50 PM

Thanks Scott,
Yes I'm currently planning on black side pipes and louvers and quick jacks. I also like the idea of black windshield trim but I'm not sure that would be worth the effort and of course would need to black the headlight trim as well. Maybe thats a complete blackout??:p

cgundermann

04-14-2018, 09:00 AM

Trucking along and looking sweet!

Chris

Joe Campbell

04-14-2018, 02:19 PM

Great thread, and not too far away. Was just looking for clarification on the motor mount notches needed for the Dart blocks for my upgrade project.

Mark Eaton

04-15-2018, 01:26 AM

Trucking along and looking sweet!

Chris

Thanks Chris

Mark Eaton

04-15-2018, 01:28 AM

Great thread, and not too far away. Was just looking for clarification on the motor mount notches needed for the Dart blocks for my upgrade project.

Sure Joe, PM sent

Mark Eaton

04-16-2018, 07:42 PM

I removed the body Edwardb style. I welded that rack which I clamped to the lift out of $42 worth of scrap steel from our local distributor

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84205&d=1523925034

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84204&d=1523924995

The next time this engine goes in it is staying. I hope...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84206&d=1523925118

GoDadGo

04-16-2018, 07:46 PM

Looking G-G-Good Dr. Mark!

cgundermann

04-16-2018, 08:23 PM

Very, very cool - nice work Doc! Looks like Tony Stark/Ironman’s garage...

Chris

Mark Eaton

04-16-2018, 10:27 PM

Thanks guys :)

Yama-Bro

04-17-2018, 12:17 PM

Looking good! You are making great progress!

Mark Eaton

04-17-2018, 10:42 PM

Thanks Yama-Bro,

Its amazing how addicting and fun this is.

cgundermann

04-18-2018, 08:59 AM

Thanks Yama-Bro,

Its amazing how addicting and fun this is.

An addiction, that once you drive her - you can never truly shake!

Chris

CdnCarNut

04-18-2018, 12:17 PM

Hi Mark,

I've spent a lot of this morning reading this thread during breaks before work, lunchtime, and in meetings. I really enjoy your build and sense of humour ("Ask me how I know.")

I have been on the forum for over a year with the full intention of building a FFR 818. I even have the donor sitting in my driveway for the past year. My original plan was to build the 818 first and then after having that experience build the Cobra. The Cobra has been a dream of mine for over 40 years. I even saw an original 289 Cobra sell for $43k CDN at an auction in 1982, but I was too poor to even consider it. After reading all the difficulties the 818 builders are having with bodywork and windows in the coupe, I'm thinking that the Cobra might be easier and more satisfying -- although more costly. To investigate the build issues on the Cobra, I started to look at some build threads. This is where I found your thread among others. The information is great in all the build threads and i am making notes on all of the learnings (i.e. mistakes) done by others before me. With any luck, I can minimize the costly mistakes in my build.

BTW, I have total garage envy! You have a great space for your build. Keep the posts and photos coming!

Cheers!
Russ

Mark Eaton

04-18-2018, 11:01 PM

Thanks for the input Russ, I'm glad your getting something out of my build thread. I'm really having fun building this thing. Those 818s look like a fun build as well. Reading as many threads as you can is a great idea to help you avoid costly mistakes. The downside is you will find all kinds of cool mods which will run up the cost! :p

Mark Eaton

05-07-2018, 08:31 PM

I re-routed my rear brake flex lines, for the third time, to clear the UCA, CV axle and coil over with more room. I think this is more consistent with the manual and still allows me access to the lines when the car is completed. I appreciate Edwardb's note of concern with my 2nd routing placement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85514&d=1525742374

Papa

05-07-2018, 08:41 PM

Looks great, Mark. Where did you source the knob for your engine hoist leveler? The crappy plastic one didn't last through one installation.

Dave

Mark Eaton

05-07-2018, 08:55 PM

Thanks Dave, yeah that leveler works well but the handle was a piece of garbage. Here's what I replaced it with

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUDIF4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I double checked on the J.W. Winco website to make sure the stud size was correct. M10 -1.0 or 1.5 I think. Anyway, it works great!

Papa

05-07-2018, 09:07 PM

Mark Eaton

05-16-2018, 10:14 PM

I've been at this ABS mod for a long time and have talked to alot of folks. I'm not sure I can make this work but here is what I've come up with. This is a 4 channel ABS module from a 2013 Mustang GT. I wanted to use a 2015 model to match the IRS but believe it or not the wrecking companies kept sending them to me without the wiring harnesses attached! I found the wiring manual on Ebay.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85864&d=1526525955

I welded the mounting bracket on PS front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85865&d=1526525989

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85866&d=1526526057

Here it is with the brake lines installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85867&d=1526526095

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85868&d=1526526131

GoDadGo

05-17-2018, 05:58 AM

Mark,

You Must Really Plan To Go Fast Since You're Installing ABS To Stop That Sucker!
This feature will really be unique for sure on a Factory Five.
Keep Wrenching Doc, Keep Wrenching!

Steve

Straversi

05-17-2018, 09:59 AM

This is great. Love to see guys taking it to the next level. Good luck.
-Steve

Mark Eaton

05-17-2018, 09:21 PM

Thanks guys

Mark Eaton

05-25-2018, 10:29 PM

I had to remove the rear wilwood brakes to install the ABS speed sensors. These are 2015 Mustang sensors that I plan to route to my 2013 ABS module.

Is this going to work?!

I tapped the access hole to 1/4" -20 and bolted them in with blue loctite. Everything was going well until I was re-installing the DS wildwood and torquing to 77 ft/lb and managed to shear BOTH bolts. WTF, did I read the directions wrong?!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86263&d=1527304516

After kicking some things around and taking the Lord's name in vain I managed to back those bolts out and get the wilwoods back on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86260&d=1527302911

That episode took almost three hours. The PS, maybe 15 minutes...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86261&d=1527302937

edwardb

05-26-2018, 05:27 AM

Everything was going well until I was re-installing the DS wildwood and torquing to 77 ft/lb and managed to shear BOTH bolts. WTF, did I read the directions wrong?!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86263&d=1527304516

The large bolts (in your picture) holding the caliper mounting bracket to the knuckle are 70 ft/lbs.

The smaller bolts (the ones you broke) holding the e-brake mounting bracket to the caliper mounting bracket are listed in the instructions as 30 ft/lbs. That would do it. :(

shark92651

05-30-2018, 02:51 PM

Everything was going well until I was re-installing the DS wildwood and torquing to 77 ft/lb and managed to shear BOTH bolts. WTF, did I read the directions wrong?!

Holy crap sorry to hear that, but at least you got them out. I've got to take all my calipers off the rears to swap my rotors to the other side since I put them on backwards. I'm hoping a hot soldering iron to the bolt heads will be enough to break down the red loc-tite.

Mark Eaton

06-02-2018, 10:57 PM

In the wake of the HB rally my head has been full of all kinds of cool mods that I want to do to my MK4. I bought a bandsaw which turned out to be a great purchase. Today I started fabrication on a new firewall. I cut it out of 1/8" aluminum panel. The saw cut through it like butter, really impressive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86619&d=1527996376

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86620&d=1527996406

I also got these Gates hose clamps idea after seeing them on RR20AC's car at HB. I put them on my MC reservoir hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86623&d=1527996566

Finally, after browsing through Papa's build thread I realized I hadn't used Antiseize on my header bolts or gasket sealer so I took those off and redid it. And torqued them to 20 ft-lb.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86621&d=1527996487

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86622&d=1527996506

Turns out my headers didn't come with a fancy locking bolt tab kit thing so I'll have to get them from Summit. It would get awful loud if those header bolts back out. Probably loud enough to drown out the ridiculously overpowered stereo I'm planning.

Mark Eaton

06-23-2018, 08:45 PM

After much deliberation and input from a gearhead friend I have decided to postpone my ABS system for now. So, I took the module out and replumbed the whole thing with 3/16" tubing. I bench bleed the MC's and pressure bleed the brakes and it seems to be working fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87661&d=1529804371

2bking

06-24-2018, 05:20 PM

So what was the deciding factor? I have ABS and really like how it works. If you install it but don't like it, it's simple to unplug and the brake system works like the ABS module isn't there.

Mark Eaton

06-25-2018, 11:23 PM

So what was the deciding factor? I have ABS and really like how it works. If you install it but don't like it, it's simple to unplug and the brake system works like the ABS module isn't there.

The number one issue came down to time and my lack of it. I would have left the module in place but the bore on the supplied MC wasn't enough to actuate the brakes given I had to replace the 3/16" lines with 5/16" line which is what the module accepts. It was a volume issue and probably an MC with 67% more bore would have done it but it is not exact science and may have take several trial and errors with different MCs. I am not opposed to that but I figured the time I need to make this work vs how badly I want to move on with the build made it not worth it at this point. The wiring wasn't going to be so bad given that I had the pigtail and wiring manual and I think I can make it work as a stand alone unit, however, figuring out how to read fault codes was going to be tricky and another time consuming issue.

Mark Eaton

06-30-2018, 07:55 PM

Papa

07-01-2018, 11:36 AM

In preparation to start on my dash and another funky trunk mod idea I got a the Hunting Beach show I put the body back on the chassis. After fussing with it for a while it seems to fit pretty well. The one issue I notice is the body behind the PS seat is higher than behind the DS seat. Here is a photo, this is with the undercarriage bolts which came with the kit it place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88146&d=1530405850

I put 5/8" worth of shim between the body and chassis on the PS ...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88147&d=1530405879

It looks better now. That just seems like a lot of shim to have down there, the DS body is flush against the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88148&d=1530405907

Not sure what else to do. Any thoughts?

Mark,

I don't think you want to shim the body away from the frame along the bottom. Have you trimmed any of the aluminum along the trunk side and rear cockpit wall? Mine is sitting flush with the frame along the bottom without any bulb or other weather seals in place yet. I expect that I'll need to do some minor trimming to get the body to sit right once the seals are installed.

Dave

Mark Eaton

07-01-2018, 11:50 AM

Papa

07-01-2018, 11:56 AM

Thanks Dave, I haven't trimmed any of the trunk panels and they are abutting the body. Maybe trimming them will help. I did trim the cockpit panels and they don't touch the body anymore or seem to be "pushing" on it anywhere. How much of a gap did you go for between they panels and body?

I've not done any trimming yet on those panels, which is what I was getting at. I was trying to understand why your body is sitting lower than where I think it should be and was asking if maybe you trimmed them a bit too aggressively. From what I understand, the body is supported by and will rest snugly on the seals along the tops of the firewall, cockpit, and trunk panels as well as a portion of the square tubes along the front fenders closer to the firewall.

Dave

Papa

07-01-2018, 12:00 PM

One more thing, Mark. My rear cockpit wall was the last panel to go into the cockpit and sits on top of and in front of all the other panels it's connected to. You can sort of see that in this picture:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84683&d=1524443176

Mark Eaton

07-01-2018, 12:06 PM

Papa

07-01-2018, 01:45 PM

Here are my trunk panels. It is kind of hard to see in the photos so I put in arrows where they are bumping up against the body. How much should I trim?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88192&d=1530464432

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88191&d=1530464411

Mark,

I think what you need to trim is just where the panels would prevent the body from resting evenly across the entire length. I also checked those belt opening and my driver's side is just like yours compared with the passenger side. I don't think these cars are very symmetrical, and from what I've heard you can go crazy if you try to get them that way. :)

Dave

Jeff Kleiner

07-01-2018, 02:48 PM

Here are my trunk panels. It is kind of hard to see in the photos so I put in arrows where they are bumping up against the body. How much should I trim?

Do you have your rear bumper hardware installed? If not what you see is meaningless because the tail will droop. With the tail at the proper height you want to see about 3/8" gap...but that can change depending on how far in or out the lower valance is adjusted...which will be determined by the trunk lid. See where I'm going? Step 1 before step 2 before step 3 and so on. It all plays together with most changes or adjustments affecting another.

Jeff

Mark Eaton

07-01-2018, 07:07 PM

Thanks Jeff,

I have the quick jack bolts it place which look like they are holding up the tail. And as I answer this and see your signature I realize that I have been meaning to read your bodywork thread. That will probably answer most of my questions.

Mark

Jeff Kleiner

07-02-2018, 05:09 AM

I realize that I have been meaning to read your bodywork thread. That will probably answer most of my questions.

Mark

Actually Mark it is quite outdated and I have changed quite a few of my methods so only think of it as a very basic primer. If you're holding the tail up with the QJ bolts go for ~ 3/8" between the aluminum and body as a starting point.

Jeff

Mark Eaton

07-03-2018, 09:29 AM

Will do, thanks Jeff!

shark92651

07-03-2018, 11:13 AM

Mark Eaton

07-03-2018, 09:55 PM

Thanks for the tip, I guess I forgot to write down that tidbit while I was at the school.

edwardb

07-04-2018, 06:07 AM

At the Mott build school they recommended using a fat sharpie and holding it parallel to the body and run it along the inside. Anywhere it touches and marks the aluminum is where you may want to trim.

Thanks for the tip, I guess I forgot to write down that tidbit while I was at the school.

I agree with that method. But just suggest using caution. Make sure the body is properly positioned, the right height, everything else is in the ballpark (e.g. doors, hood, trunk lid) before cutting metal. I've seen several builds where guys got aggressive and then ended up with gaps. As the old saying goes, easier to take the material off than put it back on. My personal experience with fitting three Roadster bodies is the rear valance required some trimming in some cases, and in one case a little on the firewall. But nothing else. The trunk sides can be repositioned in some cases rather than trimming. Take your time and don't do anything in isolation. Almost everything affects something else.

Mark Eaton

07-04-2018, 12:08 PM

Good advice, thanks Paul

Mark Eaton

08-22-2018, 09:32 PM

My build progress for the summer has been frustratingly slow. With my boys out of school for the summer we have been doing a lot of family stuff which is great but I have also been stupid busy at work. They started back to school today so my shop time should increase!

I have struggled with my mental concept of the dash, both the gauge layout and the appearance. Hot Rod or "Rat Rod" dashes appeal to me much more than the standard Cobra dash. I like the brushed metal and rivet look. Also, I am a new Powder coat convert. I ordered a blank dash from FFR and fabricated some mounting tabs, powder coated them, and installed them. I also made some lower support braces which I plan to powder coat, of course.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91717&d=1534823732

Here's the initial dash install, the final with have all the bolts with the same heads.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91718&d=1534823763

Still enjoying the build overall but not feeling close to heaven yet...

shark92651

08-27-2018, 08:34 AM

Sometimes I wish I could take a month off of work and and build, but then I realize I really can't afford another divorce ;)

Mark Eaton

10-02-2018, 12:33 AM

I have been contemplating the rear wiring harness and am now inching forward. I mocked up the layout and routed it around my drop trunk and rear battery mod. I placed cable clamps and secured them with self tapping 10-32 screws using "Tap magic" as the liquid media of choice. I can't remember who's build thread I got that idea from but I like it a lot. The screws are easy to back out and screw in again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94546&d=1538457056

I have a Holley sniper EFI with an inline pump and I believe I will simply need to cut the wires on the provided fuel pump plug(meant for an in-tank pump) and connect them to my pump??

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94545&d=1538457033

I want to add a trunk light, cubby light , back up light , and third brake light. I basically took the harness apart to run those wires through taking care to label them meticulously as I go!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94547&d=1538457083

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94548&d=1538457115

I tapped the brake light and ground off the DS tail light limb as per Fixit's recommendation. I plan to heat shrink it with some dielectric grease.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94549&d=1538457140

Mark Eaton

10-19-2018, 08:46 PM

Today I worked on my third rendition of the Firewall. I had no idea I was so picky about these things.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95849&d=1539999265

I am planning to powder coat this myself. It won't fit into my oven so I have some Youtube ideas of how to do it... I am also trying to wrap my brain around the wiring of the entire vehicle. A bit daunting. I can't force myself to hit the easy button and just go straight up Ron Francis harness, too many cool mod ideas. I will soon be reaching out with PM's to various forum members for advice so I don't annoy the forum with my unsophisticated wiring questions.

Jazzman

10-20-2018, 05:17 PM

Don't worry Mark, the wiring is daunting but do-able. It is a "one step at a time" process. And always remember, we are all here for you! Don't worry about "unsophisticated" questions. You can bet that there either are already a lot of guys reading this and wondering the same thing, or that will be reading it in the future and will appreciate you asking the "unsophisticated" question that they were already thinking!! As away!

PS: Be picky about everything! It is your car, it is a reflection of your commitment to craftsmanship. Don't worry if you do things two or three times. Just do them right for you!

Mark Eaton

10-21-2018, 08:45 AM

Thanks Kevin! And I really appreciate your build thread especially with the table of contents.:)

cgundermann

10-21-2018, 09:35 AM

Mark, I can’t tell you how many times I redid things a half dozen times. I learned when I got too frustrated and rushed to fix an error, I made more mistakes. Sometimes it pays to push away from the table and reflect/research...

Wiring wasn’t my thing in terms of mechanical understanding. I can picture gears and moving objects in my head. But as my Dad would say who flew Navy EA6B electronic countermeasures jets, electricity is f@#king magic!

That being said, I do beautiful electrical work without understanding it and my car believe it or not worked. You got a lot of expertise on the Forum and builders who want to pay it forward. So ask away my friend...

Chris

Pat427

10-23-2018, 07:14 PM

I second that!

Mark Eaton

10-28-2018, 11:47 PM

I ordered up some Delphi weather packs, these things are really nifty.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96525&d=1540785826

So, there are male and female terminal pins AND there are male and female connectors. Everything appears to be interchangeable but I am wondering what the standard procedure for joining them is? Should male terminal pins be in male connectors and female in female? I realize it probably doesn't matter as long as you are consistent through out the build or things could get very confusing. There must be an industry standard...

Also, I split out the tan running light wires in the Rear RF harness so that all four tails lights are on when headlights are illuminated, thanks Edwardb. I am planning to heat shrink the soldered junction with adhesive tubing which I have never used before. I would like to add dielectric grease over the solder prior to placing the adhesive heat shrink tubing. I am wondering if the adhesive in the heat shrink obviates the need for the dielectric grease as a waterproofing agent in this junction.

Finally, I need to purchase 7ft of 2AWG battery cable to run my + from my trunk battery to the master disconnect under the dash. Is there much difference in the quality of battery/welding cables? Should I get the "premium extra flexible" cable?

Vspeeds

10-29-2018, 02:10 AM

Hi Mark
Good to see your build is coming along.

Good question about the weatherpacks. I took a look at my distributer wiring which has a weatherpack pre-installed. It is a female connector with female pins. Based on that, I guess it will be a good guess that female connectors get the female pins and the male connectors get the male pins.

Eddie

Vspeeds

10-29-2018, 02:17 AM

And to clarify. The female connector im reffering to is the one with the green weather gasket

shark92651

10-29-2018, 08:30 AM

Yes weather packs are awesome. This drawing should clear up how to assemble them

https://www.kartek.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/how-to-assemble-a-gm-delphi-packard-weather-pack-connector_1.jpg

edwardb

10-29-2018, 08:48 AM

I am planning to heat shrink the soldered junction with adhesive tubing which I have never used before. I would like to add dielectric grease over the solder prior to placing the adhesive heat shrink tubing. I am wondering if the adhesive in the heat shrink obviates the need for the dielectric grease as a waterproofing agent in this junction.

Finally, I need to purchase 7ft of 2AWG battery cable to run my + from my trunk battery to the master disconnect under the dash. Is there much difference in the quality of battery/welding cables? Should I get the "premium extra flexible" cable?

The double wall heat shrink tubing seals up the connection really well with the adhesive. I don't see any need for the dielectric grease. For the 2 gauge battery cable, I've been using the cable from West Marine. They sell it by the foot. Not cheap, but seems to be very high quality. I like it a lot.

Straversi

10-29-2018, 09:01 AM

The West-Marine near me has a heavy duty crimper mounted on a bench in the back for customers to use. Nice to be able to make the cable ends without buying the tool.
-Steve

Mark Eaton

11-25-2018, 11:08 PM

Just about have my rear wiring harness completed and began installation. I am using the Holley Sniper EFI which has a 14 AWG wire to power the in-line fuel pump which came with the kit. I noticed in the RF harness the power to the fuel pump is 18 AWG. I went ahead and added a 14 AWG wire to the RF harness to power my pump. This is at the pump end,

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98196&d=1543204664

and in the cockpit...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98197&d=1543204701

I figure I'll just plug the 14 AWG wire into the connector on the RF harness.

Fixit

12-02-2018, 08:17 AM

Wiring's very linear, and approach it as eating an elephant... one bite at a time.

If you've got a spare Weatherpak terminal, just replace the RF "fuel pump" wire with your larger gauge feeder. You'll need a pin extractor (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lisle-Wire-Terminal-Tool-LIS56500/306763699?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CHC%7CD25T%7C25-31_GARAGE/AUTOMOTIVE%7CNA%7CNA%7CRLSA%7c71700000037147753%7c 58700004141485307%7c92700035285887564&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpf-2tp2B3wIVkDVpCh3BbAdxEAQYAyABEgKWpvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) to get the terminal out of the housing.
(It's nothing more than a very thin-wall piece of tubing that slides over the terminal and compresses the "barbs" on the terminal so you can pull it out of the housing. You could probably make one from a piece of brake line and some time on a grinder, or they're available at a good parts store.)
At the fuel pump end you can butt-splice the 14ga. onto a short stub of the (supplied) 18ga. That inch or two of 18 won't make a bit of difference.

(Plus you'll gain a "spare" 18ga from the dash to the rear of the car with the abandoned 18ga)

You're already on a good track... obsessive labeling, and using good practices/methods/materials. An additional suggestion is take the diagrams from the wiring manual and blow them up on a copier. Pencil in your additions, and mark where you've made your taps & splices or color changes. (You'll thank yourself later!)

Vspeeds

12-03-2018, 10:02 AM

Looking good Mark. Hope all is well.

Mark Eaton

12-22-2018, 01:53 AM

I got the fuel tank installed and hooked up the rear fuel send and return lines. The Rear Wiring Harness is in. I tested all wires for resistance and everything seems to be in continuity!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99368&d=1545455937

I really want to install the trunk panels and apply Lizard skin but I think I had better get to go kart stage first to make sure I don't have any problems with the rear harness wiring, fuel lines, or brake lines.

Papa

12-22-2018, 01:50 PM

Gotta love the "spaghetti" stage of the build! Looking good, Mark.

Vspeeds

12-27-2018, 08:02 PM

Mark
I like you battery box mod. That wouldve worked well on my build as I had an issue with my box hitting the diff cover.

Mark Eaton

12-28-2018, 12:10 AM

Eddie, I saw that in your build thread, bummer, but it looked like you worked around it ok.

Mark Eaton

01-20-2019, 12:10 AM

My firewall wouldn't fit into my oven so I powder coated it and cooked it with my propane heater.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100951&d=1547960469

It worked really well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100952&d=1547960494

I decided to go ahead and apply lizard skin to the firewall and DS footbox, trans tunnel cover. I am holding off on lizard skin and final installation for the other panels until I have go-karted and worked out mechanical issues. The Lizard skin was easy to apply and not as much of a mess as I expected.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100949&d=1547959719

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100950&d=1547959742

Mark Eaton

01-28-2019, 01:00 AM

I told my boys months ago that we could put a basketball goal in at the shop. Today was the day to start. My 12yo, Nick, came out to help and got to learn to weld with the MIG welder. I set it to 4 sec spot weld and let him go at it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101351&d=1548654332

I set some tac beads but other than that these are all his.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101352&d=1548654366

Now all we have to do is paint it with POR 15 and install it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101353&d=1548654413

We had a couple hours before his games so we did the final install on the firewall and inside DS footbox panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101354&d=1548654436

GoDadGo

01-28-2019, 08:39 AM

Dr. Mark,

Tell your baby boy that we welds way, way better than me.
Seriously, he really does so let him know that:
Volcanic Bird Poop For You!
Great Detour For Sure!

Steve
The Volcanic Bird Poop Nazi

Mark Eaton

02-24-2019, 09:18 AM

I installed the main wiring harness. I am also putting in a Busbar for behind the dash power with an ingnition relay(60 amp) as outined by Edwardb and endorsed by many.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102689&d=1551016112

I wired the relay following Papa and Japollon's instructions

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102690&d=1551016149

87-to starter, 86- existing blue wire in, 30- 12V power from busbar in, 85- to ground, 87a- PIN of mystery (not used)

As I plod along I am starting to get my head around the whole wiring thing. It was sort of an epiphany for me when I realized the main harness fuse box was really just that and not some sort of "box of mystery". At this point the only box of mystery is the EFI but I'm not going to mess with that until I have the engine in again.

I am learning a lot about relays, fuses, circuit breakers, switches. Nothing too difficult here, however, putting them all together in a way that will function reliably when deviating from the manual will be the tricky part...

I do want to say at this point how appreciative I am of all those whom have come before me and documented what they have done. Has helped me immensely!

Mark Eaton

03-02-2019, 09:55 PM

Today with the help of two buddies I dropped my 347 DART into the Chassis for the final time. I had discussed this with my 15 yo last Sunday night and he was interested in helping. I was looking forward to it all week, however, this morning he informed me that he had more important things going on. It was a bitter pill to swallow...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103078&d=1551580158

I had also installed the heater to the firewall. This is not the most confidence inspiring piece of equipment. I used longer screws because of my thicker firewall which now has Lizard skin as well. I managed to get all six screws in place, one of them is cattywhompus.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103079&d=1551581289

Now I'm chomping at the bit to get first start! I need help with coupling my Sniper EFI to the RF Harness. Plan to post a separate thread for that.

Vspeeds

03-03-2019, 12:48 AM

MSumners

03-03-2019, 09:21 AM

Thanks for the details. Just finalized payment and will get started in spring on a similar build so I appreciate the info.

WIS89

03-03-2019, 01:02 PM

Mark-

I am sorry to hear about your teenager being a teenager! I empathize and hope he makes the decision to get more involved. I firmly believe that you will both make memories that will last long after you are gone. Hang in there, and just enjoy the time when he does decide to join you in that amazing work space!

Oh, and I want to make a suggestion regarding the basketball backboard support y'all made. It looks great, but you may want to add some more support down low, because as your son starts hanging from the rim on all those monster dunks he will be making, you don't want it to come crashing down on him! ;-o)

I look forward to more updates; keep up the good work!

Regards,

Steve

Papa

03-03-2019, 01:21 PM

Mark,

Kids these days want instant gratification when they do anything. When I had a bunch of guys help me install my engine, one of them had his 13 year old son with him. When we got the engine settled into the car, he asked if I was going to start it up before they left. When I explained all the stuff that still had to be done before we could start the engine, he seemed a lot less interested in being there.

He'll come around once you have something "stimulating" to work on.

Dave

Mark Eaton

03-24-2019, 08:03 PM

This is a huge milestone for me. Special thanks to Dave Cabral "PAPA" for walking me through the wiring of my Sniper EFI.

here is the video...

https://youtu.be/T1rIu32M1fs

I finally feel closer to heaven

cgundermann

03-24-2019, 08:28 PM

Congratulations Mark, how cool is that!

Chris

cv2065

03-25-2019, 06:59 AM

Mark Eaton

03-25-2019, 09:51 PM

Hm, try this

https://youtu.be/T1rIu32M1fs

cv2065

03-25-2019, 10:07 PM

Hm, try this

https://youtu.be/T1rIu32M1fs

Still no go for me...Gotta see that first start!

Mark Eaton

03-25-2019, 10:17 PM

How about this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1rIu32M1fs&feature=youtu.be

GoDadGo

03-25-2019, 10:19 PM

Can't open in on YOUTUBE.

Mark Eaton

03-25-2019, 10:32 PM

OK, my 15 yo just fixed the problem, LOL. Try it now!

https://youtu.be/T1rIu32M1fs

cv2065

03-25-2019, 10:59 PM

Looking good Mark! Congrats!

FF33rod

03-25-2019, 11:19 PM

SWEET! Sounds fantastic, congrats on the major milestone!

GoDadGo

03-26-2019, 05:21 AM

A Big Congratulations From The Swamp Lands Of Louisiana!

Straversi

03-26-2019, 09:00 AM

Congratulations Mark! Love to see the look of happiness and relief we all get when it finally comes to life. Bet the boys love that sound.
-Steve

Paul2STL

03-26-2019, 11:11 AM

Nice video Mark, sounds awesome. Good to here you pushing through making good progress. First go cart ride will be soon!

RR20AC

03-26-2019, 01:29 PM

Looks like your still enjoying your build. Congrats on the first start. You'll be driving in no time.

Vspeeds

03-27-2019, 02:00 AM

Mark
Thats awesome. Looks like youre having a blast. Youll be driving it soon. Congratulations

RJD

03-27-2019, 09:49 AM

Congrats! Well done.

Boydster

03-29-2019, 01:32 PM

WooHoo! Congrats!!

Mark Eaton

04-10-2019, 10:25 PM

With my recent first start I realized that my brake lines were a little close to the CATS, so I moved them, again and hopefully for the last time. I'm not sure how I didn't notice this before with all my meticulous planning. Here are the photos. I was a little irritated at first but find that I kind of enjoy routing brake lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105473&d=1554951296

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105472&d=1554951268

I then had to bleed the lines (including hydraulic clutch) so I decided to go ahead and replace my DOT 3 fluid with DOT 4 RACING fluid. I used this slick CNC brake bleeding cap thing that makes this an easy one person job. I love this little gadget.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105474&d=1554951459

Next, I worked on centering my power steering rack. I found this thread helpful,

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure

Mark Eaton

04-10-2019, 11:14 PM

I cut 1/4" off the aft limb of the UCA to help obtain 8° castor

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105479&d=1554952693

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105480&d=1554952723

I have been puzzling with alignment in the back of my head since build school. I am determined to figure it out myself. Trusting a shop to do it doesn't seem like a good idea. Plus, this gave me a reason to buy a self leveling laser and some Longacre alignment equipent. I fixed the laser level at 90* to the chassis to help figure out trueing up the wheels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105481&d=1554952769

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105482&d=1554952812

Of course, I double checked using the string method.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105483&d=1554952855

Mark Eaton

04-10-2019, 11:26 PM

I fabricated and installed a clutch pedal stop bracket. I copied this directly out of the 40 watt garage build thread. Thanks Fixit! I'll powder coat it later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105485&d=1554956292

I also tapped into the blue cooling fan power wire in the front harness and wired in a cooling fan LED light for the dash as per instruction from Edwardb. Thanks Paul! I don't have a photo of that but I did test it and it works!

I must say that I love just firing up the 9130 and listening to her purr. Can hardly wait to start go karting !!