Eaton's Mk4 #9130 Oregon Build- First Year of Street legal driving [Archive] - Page 2

Mark Eaton

04-22-2019, 11:32 PM

I put together the Cobraheat seat heaters. Pretty straightforward. I hope that spray adhesive holds them in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106222&d=1555992198

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106225&d=1555992270

I think that they must have shortened the cables that come with these things, I couldn't get them to reach the aft part of the cockpit. I was hoping I could get them to come out behind the restraint anchors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106226&d=1555992321

this will have to do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106227&d=1555992360

I am in the middle of wiring mayhem but little by little it is starting to make sense. I am making meticulous notes of my progress. I have been puzzling over the switched power source and wiring for some time. I decided to hit the EASY button and get a fuse box from Painless for my 12V switched power. I will run it off of the Electric choke feed with the power coming from the Busbar. This thing is really nice for inexperienced folks like myself. It comes all prewired with two relays, two circuit breakers, and seven switched sources for all my ridiculous electrical mods...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106229&d=1555992448

GoDadGo

04-23-2019, 05:27 AM

Mark,

I Truly Hated The Wiring Aspect Of The Build!
Wish Papa Lived Near Me For This Talks!
Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!

Steve

Mark Eaton

05-31-2019, 11:20 PM

I was hoping to be finished with my wiring at this point but I am stalled and waiting for parts. I made the mistake of ordering some LED dash lights from a shop in Australia which are being shipped on the slow boat.

I want my seats to be tilted back for comfort and the Breeze brackets were appealing but I realized I had enough scrap aluminum and some long acre ramps (which I won't use for their intended purpose) to build my own brackets.

Pretty straight forward and completely modeled after the Breeze units. The driver side is adjustable. The base plate on the left is 3/16" steel, I welded in some 5/16" studs to mount the adjustable bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108141&d=1559361569

powder coated:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108142&d=1559361621

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108143&d=1559361647

Mark Eaton

06-01-2019, 12:25 AM

I ordered the Breeze splined quick release steering wheel hub kit. It is top notch and I am very happy with it. The instructions are meticulous but I found them puzzling, that is, it calls for removing the upper steering shaft to properly align the steering wheel to the polished aluminum hub adapter. I read through the instructions several times and it was clear to me that I would screw it up doing it that way. Also, my steering shaft has been in and out multiple times and it is now in with red loctite everywhere including set screws and its not coming out unless I rearend a parked car doing 70mph. I searched both forums to see if anyone posted installation without removing the steering shaft but came up empty handed.

The polished aluminum hub adapter has two concentric circles. The smaller circle fits snuggly over the steering shaft and the larger circle is the same size as the inner circle of the steering wheel which just fits the billet aluminum FFR badge thing. It made sense to me that these two circles need to line up perfectly in order for the badge to fit and this should center up the steering wheel perfectly on the shaft. I saw no reason I couldn't just do this on my bench and then just mount the whole thing. That is what I did.

I started by cutting off 5/8" of the steering shaft so the length would be appropriate.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108144&d=1559364584

Next I welded the spline to the shaft.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108145&d=1559364629

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108146&d=1559364658

I then carefully aligned the steering wheel to the polished aluminum hub adapter and drilled and tapped the six holes for mounting. I used a drill press for the drilling. I put it all together and it came out nice. The arrow in this photo shows the two circles, the inner being on the polished aluminum hub adapter and outer being on the steering wheel, which needed to line up perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108148&d=1559364814

Very happy with the outcome.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108147&d=1559364761

Vspeeds

06-01-2019, 12:34 AM

Looking good Mark. I see youre really getting your moneys worth using your welder and powder coating accessories.

Mark Eaton

06-10-2019, 09:06 PM

I have spent some time customizing my dash and powder coating it. I actually purchased a cow hide to cover the dash but I didn't really like how it looked on my practice pieces. This powder coating method is a bit unorthodox but it works. I kept the fire extinguisher handy...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108694&d=1560214365

I wired it up and tried to button down the loose ends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108691&d=1560213957

Tested the dashlights, this is encouraging. I must have done something right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108692&d=1560213985

installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108693&d=1560214019

Fired up the engine but I'm having serious stalling issues. Not sure why, planning to rerun the sniper setup wizard again this weekend but if that doesn't solve my stalling problems I may start a thread for help.

Greg K

06-11-2019, 11:01 AM

Could be the same issue with the oval filter as seen in this post by Wallace18 or other RF interference. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32214-Holley-Sniper-vs-FiTech-by-wallace18&p=367766&viewfull=1#post367766

Fired up the engine but I'm having serious stalling issues. Not sure why, planning to rerun the sniper setup wizard again this weekend but if that doesn't solve my stalling problems I may start a thread for help.

Jazzman

06-21-2019, 05:58 PM

Looking good, Doc! Your dash is a unorthodox, but I like it . . . then again, I like unorthodox!! Are the green LED's in the gauges a hint as to a color scheme? Keep up the good work!

Mark Eaton

06-21-2019, 11:06 PM

Thanks Kevin but I'm afraid my color scheme is still up in the air!

GoDadGo

06-22-2019, 05:41 AM

Looking good, Doc! Your dash is a unorthodox, but I like it . . . then again, I like unorthodox!!

I'm With Kevin On This!

Mark Eaton

06-23-2019, 10:30 PM

OK, this is a huge milestone for me, coming in at 22 months from delivery I am now officially go karting!!!! Here is a video my wife shot of me today. Just ignore the fact that I haven't installed the seat belts yet...

https://youtu.be/WluHDIu14ik

Truth be told I actually drove around the block a couple of times last weekend to calibrate the Speedometer but this is my official first go kart video. I must say I love the way this car drives and feels, even in this primitive form.

I have been reading the Holley Sniper manual which talks about the "First Drive" and building up to harder acceleration runs including WOT runs!! I can't imagine a WOT run right now. I'm not sure I even got it much over 2000 rpm. This baby has POWER!!!

Mark Eaton

06-23-2019, 11:09 PM

I had trouble getting my "Autometer" speedometer to function. I followed the Chassis wiring harness manual and the MK4 manual but there was this unanswered question of this gray wire labelled "speed sensor" and COMPLETELY ignored in the manuals.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109461&d=1561347608

I couldn't figure out what to do with it. The autometer instructions have about six different ways to hook up the speedometer depending on your set up and none of them seemed like what I have. I have the Ultra-Lite Guages with Sniper EFI, Tremec TKO 600 transmission. I finally just grounded that gray wire and now the speedometer works! I don't know why they don't just call it a speedometer ground. Frustrating.

I had plugged my rear wiring harness into the electronic speedometer port, shown below. I never installed that mechanical speedometer gear that came with my kit. That thing seemed flimsy and I'm glad I didn't need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109462&d=1561347759

At any rate, if you are a newby and your speedometer isn't working this post could possibly save you some time.

Mark Eaton

06-27-2019, 09:33 PM

So, the only other gauge that isn't working is my oil temp gauge. I have the Autometer Ultra-lite gauges and I really like how they look and they seem to be functioning well other than the oil temperature gauge. I did a continuity test with my ohmmeter because I figured the problem was probably with my substandard wiring technique. To my surprise the wiring was good and there was continuity from the sensor to the gauge. Therefore, the problem had to be either the sensor or the gauge itself. I emailed Autometer tech support and actually received two emails from two different technicians giving me the same advice (encouraging) on how to test both the gauge and then the sensor. First up, the guage. Their instructions were to ground the sending terminal with nothing else connected to the terminal and power up the gauge. If the pointer deflects past 250 the gauge is good. The result...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109703&d=1561686883

The gauge is good! Next up the sensor. The advice was to measure the ressistance across the sensor which should be 1100 ohms at 100 degrees, dropping to 65 ohms at 250. I watched some youtube videos on how to do this, no big deal, I did it, and sure enough the sensor checks out ok!

Now I'm confused. My gauge checks ok, the connecting wires between the gauge and sensor are good, and the sensor is good. Why doesn't the thing function properly?? One of the youtube videos recommended not using teflon tape on the NPT threads to the sensor because it would inhibit the ground. I don't use teflon tape but I do use this stuff. And it works great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109701&d=1561686615

Here is a photo of my sensor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109700&d=1561686578

I thought maybe the Loctite thread sealer was messing up the ground so I cleaned it all off and tried again. Still no Oil Temperature gauge function and now I have oil leaking out around the sensor! :mad:

I touched a ground wire to the sensor and the gauge kicked in! So I went ahead and wired a ground to the sensor, reapplied Loctite threadsealer, and now the Oil temp gauge works just fine. Here is a photo.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109704&d=1561688728

I don't know why the sensor didn't just ground itself through the NPT threads but the recurring theme of grounding the shietz out of this car keeps coming up in my build. I ground everything.

GoDadGo

06-28-2019, 06:13 AM

I had to do a similar thing, but I drilled and tapped my sandwich adapter so that I could attach a ground wire.
For the record I think your solution is better and easier than mine was.

Ducky2009

06-28-2019, 07:54 AM

Mark Eaton

06-28-2019, 09:15 PM

Do you have a ground strap from the engine to the frame? Was your gauge grounded to the frame?

Also wondering if the mount that the sending unit is screwed into has a gasket between it and the engine, sealing potential oil leaks and "insulating" the electrical connection.

I have two grounds from the engine to the chassis, both of them with 2 AWG cable. The gauge is also grounded to the chassis in sequence with other guages and they all seemed to check out ok with my ohmmeter. The answer to your last question is that I'm not exactly sure. I put it in last march and don't really remember. It is an adapter I purchased from Forte but is a Canton racing part. As I recall everything screwed together and there was some sort of gasket in there somewhere. The other thing I was wondering is that maybe the adapter has powder coating which prevented a ground ?????

Mark

GoDadGo

06-29-2019, 07:29 AM

Like Dr. Mark, I also have two ground straps on the engine.

Mark Eaton

06-30-2019, 11:55 PM

I got a lot of wiring done this weekend starting with my heater after I fried my switch a couple months ago. I took CraigS's advice and just removed the actuator cable and will just use the knob to run the fan. I wired my cubby and trunk lights using my Painless fuse block as the 12V source. I wired my stereo harness. Then I installed my fancy regulation FFR horns. I was thinking that these are one of the few things that I haven't modified on my build although I did use this cool push button https://www.amazon.com/ESUPPORT-Momentary-Speaker-Button-Toggle/dp/B07H2YFDCP/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Its a bit tricky and has five connections. I watched several youtube videos but still don't have it working correctly. No horn sound and no halo, yet. Thats ok I'm still basking in the glow of getting my oil temp gauge and speedometer working to be bummed out about my horns.

Finally, I wired up my awesome LED headlights. I'm really excited about these. I have spent a lot of time over the past two years looking at headlights. I bought these about nine months ago and I have been dying to hook them up. They are not exactly "period correct" but I am convinced that Carroll Shelby would have put these on the Cobra if they were available in 1965. How could he resist?

They are made by Lumen and are black projector headlights with switchback halo.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109894&d=1561953919

This is the DRL function

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109895&d=1561953947

And here they are in their full glory

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109896&d=1561954002

Thats a lot of lumens coming at you!!! I didn't get a good photo of it but the DRLs blink yellow with the turn signal or hazards. Everything seems to be functioning properly except my turn signals blow the fuse after about three blinks.

Mark Eaton

07-12-2019, 10:46 PM

It has been a brutal week at work, I was on call Monday night and last night and was pretty much up working all night on both occasions. I managed to crawl out of the hospital at noon today and drag my carcass to the shop for my third brake light installation. Been planning for a while. Put in this 12mm LED which is IP65 weatherproof rated https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light/1494/3435/

here are some photos

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110579&d=1562988834

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110580&d=1562988868

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110581&d=1562988897

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110582&d=1562988943

Hopefully this will help to keep me from getting run over by some DA in a monster truck...

Mark Eaton

08-04-2019, 06:48 PM

A buddy of mine is an ex-race car driver. He convinced me to install a remote mount brake bias adjuster. Its a pretty simple device, and now is the time to do it. I purchased the Wilwood product from Summit. I have wildwood brakes so I figured I would use their device.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111820&d=1564924309

I routed it behind the firewall and secured it with hose clamps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111822&d=1564925609

And the knob below the dash... (orange arrow)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111823&d=1564925792

I lubed the balance bar with anti-sieze. Turning the knob clockwise easily rotates the balance bar but when I turned counter clockwise the adjuster just backed off of the balance bar. I thought about putting in a set screw but that seemed a little too invasive so I put some red loctite where the nut screws into the balance bar. I hope this works...

NAZ

08-05-2019, 05:55 PM

When I ran one of these I installed on the right side away from the clutch pedal and locked it in place with a jam nut. Worked great. If you have problems with it and it's time to remove it that RED locktite is going to make you swear like a sailor and heating it hot enough to break the bond under there is going to be a challenge. Hope it last forever and works like a charm but if not, you may consider installing it on the other side.

Mark Eaton

09-07-2019, 11:39 PM

This post is about 6 weeks post hoc. I got the dash fully functioning. I'm pretty proud of myself, when I first wired it the Speedometer, tachometer, oil temperature, horn, and flashers were non functional despite my meticulous building technique. Everything is now functional, however, after about 45 miles of go carting the turn signal switch just popped off and went bye-bye. I ordered a new on from Ron Francis and WOW, it is a quality piece! Thinking about replacing all my toggles with Ron Francis parts...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113015&d=1566880288

BadAsp427

09-08-2019, 06:21 AM

That dash looks pretty cool.. I will tell you that I'm a bit concerned about the position of your turn switch. I think your door is either going to be hitting it when closed or it will be uncomfortably close to it. I actually had mine there and now I have a hole. But fortunately, it is hidden by the door when closed.

Mark Eaton

09-08-2019, 09:05 AM

Yama-Bro

09-12-2019, 11:59 AM

Looking good! I've considered the brake bias adjuster too.

Mark Eaton

09-22-2019, 07:40 PM

I've made significant progress over the last 2 weeks. Installed the panels using Sikaflex 221. I used black but should have used another color because I got it all over everything including myself. Actually, on my next build I will use Dynatron 550 Auto Seam sealer to install the panels. I used it to fill gaps and really like the stuff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113907&d=1567951299

I spent a lot of time finding and filling gaps with the Dynatron 550. There were gaps everywhere. I put silver tape on the back side and I'm just leaving it in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113909&d=1567951349

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114714&d=1569197626

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114715&d=1569197666

I came up with my own DS footbox mod. I basically just "man-jammed" the inner panel medially 3/8-1/2" and held with small angled panel, used Dynatron 550. I later painted lizard skin on it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113910&d=1567951372

Mark Eaton

09-22-2019, 08:03 PM

I cut 3/8" off the dash rolled lip and 1/4" off of the rear cockpit lip. That maneuver has been endorsed by Kleiner and J Miller. I'm planning to haul this thing to Miller for paint and body work some day... I also prepped the underside with 80 grit and cleaned with my Duplicolor degreaser/wax remover. It took the better part of a day to prep it for the Bedliner

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114718&d=1569197935

I really like this stuff. I'm planning to spray it on the undercarriage and splash guards as well. Then I think I'll spray the bed of my truck with it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114719&d=1569197963

Mark Eaton

09-22-2019, 08:07 PM

This is fairly self explanatory. Takes forever to prep and mask. I used Red Scotchbrite and Duplicolor degreaser. Sprayed the sound barrier first, then the next day the ceramic heat barrier.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114716&d=1569197704

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114717&d=1569197738

Vspeeds

09-22-2019, 10:23 PM

Looks good Mark.

Mark Eaton

10-05-2019, 09:00 PM

My Quicktime bellhousing rides a bit below the chassis and I don't want it catching on any speed bumps or the like. Started by scoring it with my angle grinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115489&d=1570326417

Then used a plasma cutter...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115392&d=1570205429

smoothed it off a bit with a sanding blade on the angle grinder. I will paint with POR15 later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115393&d=1570205436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115490&d=1570326455

TMartinLVNV

10-05-2019, 11:42 PM

That is some serious surgery! I have the Quicktime setup coming from Forte as well. Does it hang lower than a standard aluminum bellhousing?

Mark Eaton

10-06-2019, 01:51 PM

That is some serious surgery! I have the Quicktime setup coming from Forte as well. Does it hang lower than a standard aluminum bellhousing?

I'm not sure but I have been advised by several experienced builders that if it hangs below the chassis to trim it. Someone even had a horror story of a low hanging bell housing catching on a speed bump and doing damage to their drive train.

edwardb

10-06-2019, 05:59 PM

The SFI versions of the QuickTime bell housings have that full circle and unless you want to be banging into things, needs to be trimmed off. The non-SFI versions that I've used don't have the full circle and are flat along the bottom. Something to check when you're looking for your engine/trans combination.

PrestonT23

10-11-2019, 08:41 PM

Great job on the build so far, keep it up!

Mark Eaton

10-15-2019, 09:25 AM

To preface this post I must say that I have read MULTIPLE body fitting threads and spent a lot of time thinking about the advice given by very experienced builders. I think I have a good understanding of the interface between the body and chassis in three dimensions, however, my inexperience is abounding.

I began by trimming 3/8” off of the dash rolled lip and 1/4” off the rear cockpit lip using carbide tip burr on the air die grinder.

With my father helping me last weekend we installed the body with no bulb seal in place. I put in the quick jacks and to my delight the measurements from the front shock mount to the wheel arches was equal on both sides at 17-1/8"!! Great, I don't think I need to pound on the outriggers with a hammer and 2x4.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116052&d=1571145836

The "up and down" looks pretty good, I should have included a measuring tape here but I think I have plenty (3/4") clearance for the hood hinges. I held the hood in place and it looks like no interference .

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116053&d=1571145879

So, I think I'm good from side to side and up and down. Next is "front to back". Here I may have a problem. The DS door jam appears to be even with the mounting plate for the striker.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116057&d=1571146122

On the PS the door jam is about 1/16" in front of the mounting plate.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116055&d=1571145977

I may be answering my own question here but I think I need to move the chassis forward a bit? How far? I've tugged it every way possible and I think the only way to accomplish forward movement is to trim the aft most trunk panels and enlarge the rollbar holes.

Mark Eaton

10-15-2019, 09:33 AM

Here are some more photos. Aft trunk panels that may need to be trimmed (its the same situation on the other side).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116059&d=1571146289

roll bar holes which may need to be opened up to allow forward movement of the body...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116058&d=1571146222

dash, looks like there is room to move forward...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116061&d=1571146411

And here's a real rookie mistake. Notice my turn signal snuggled up under the body :(.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116060&d=1571146317

Honestly, I am so happy with the position of the turn signal I am thinking about just carving out a hole for it and leaving it there. Thoughts?

PeteMeindl

10-15-2019, 08:54 PM

Nice job on fixing the issue with the transmission sticking out below the chassis just a bit, Mark! I've noticed this on my car and am also worried about the same things you are. Have others out there run into trouble with this? I don't have the same skills as Mark to remedy the situation! No plasma cutting here, unfortunately... :)

Mark Eaton

10-21-2019, 10:36 PM

So, I took the body off and trimmed the aft trunk panels, cockpit panels, some of the dash, and some off my rear speaker panels and I now have pretty good forward position of the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116474&d=1571711049

I also had to open up the rollbar holes

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116475&d=1571711076

Next, I worked on to the door latch mod which have been touted quite a bit. I took Fixit's advice and widened the hole on the laser cut spacer from FFR to prevent it from rubbing on the pivot

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116476&d=1571711104

The only part of the mod that wasn't clear to me was how to separate the pivot from the latch itself. Finally I ended up whacking it with a hammer and 1/2" ratchet extension and it came apart nicely. I put in a 5/16" carriage bolt with a locking nut and washer, lubed everything with white lithium grease, tapped the knob for a #10-32 bolt. I also touched up the sanded metal with rattle can clear coat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116478&d=1571711176
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116477&d=1571711137

Mark Eaton

11-15-2019, 12:26 AM

I have been looking into these systems for quit some time. Never a question of "should I put one in" but "which system is best for me". I chose the Fire Bottle ARMC-500 from Crateinsider.com. It comes with one automatic nozzle and 2-manually operated nozzle and uses Dupont FE-36 fluid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117602&d=1573794511

I perseverated over three installation locations: trunk, PS foot box, and engine compartment over the PS footbox. Here's what I decided on

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117603&d=1573794599

I modified the mounting bracket a little to make it more solid

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117605&d=1573794645

Now that it is actually installed I realize that I have room for the 10lb system which comes with 2 automatic nozzles, oh well....

I have the automatic nozzle line running through the cockpit rear panels in proximity of the fuel tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117609&d=1573794685

Here is the pull lever for the manual activation

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117611&d=1573794723

Mark Eaton

12-03-2019, 08:30 PM

I got started on the carpet and some leather interior over the last couple weeks. I had purchased a cowhide off Ebay to cover the dash but didn't like the look. Also, the thing was damn near big enough to cover the whole car. I decided to use it for some interior instead of the dash. I'm happy with my powder coated dash.

To glue everything in I used this DAP Wellwood industrial grade HHR contact adhesive. I really like this stuff. It's tenacious and a little tricky to deal with so I just applied a little at a time. I used tailor's chalk to mark the spots for adhesive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118360&d=1575261587

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118361&d=1575261626

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118362&d=1575261689

Subwoofer and rear speakers. The power amp is behind them. I also installed the seat brackets I had fabricated previously along with the waist belts and anti-sub belt. I secured the seat brackets with 3/16" rivets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123979&d=1583985103

Mark Eaton

12-03-2019, 09:16 PM

Here are the front speakers in the foot boxes. I covered the outside of them using cat saucers which I riveted the the outside of the footboxes. I also completed the DS footbox with only every 5th rivet and no seam sealer or silicone. I am positive I with have to disassemble that thing within the next 1000 miles and am now prepared .

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118367&d=1575262067

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118366&d=1575262021

5 channel power amp. I had the power routed through the MDS but as I read the instructions it expressly says to install a 60amp fuse within 18" of the power supply.:eek: Rather than make a bunch of phone calls to JBL or Crutchfield I just re-routed the power directly from the battery. Ignore the carpet. I will redo it at some point, maybe...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118365&d=1575261989

After Jeff Kleiner's recent tirade against Optima batteries (I have one of their Yellow tops) I decided I had better be diligent about keeping mine charged. I hooked it up to my charger, which I think is high quality, and set it to a 2 amp charge. I hope that qualifies as a trickle charge. The battery has been directly connected to the Holley Sniper for a year now and never dropped below 12.7 V.

Here is the DS footbox assembled and ready for disassembly!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118368&d=1575262095

Mark Eaton

12-03-2019, 09:29 PM

Finally, I got the transmission tunnel cover installed! But not without issues... Upon install the shifter was bumping against the fore rim of the hole. I couldn't figure out how on earth that happened. I went back and looked at all my photos and it fit perfectly before I added leather. It didn't matter, it didn't fit. :mad: I took a break to think about it. I figured I could either redo the entire cover, which I really put a lot to time into, or I could switch back to an aft shifter position which is what I did. Problem solved.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118364&d=1575261753

Mark Eaton

12-23-2019, 07:55 PM

I installed the louvers EXACTLY as per Edwardb's 8674 build. Not much to say except "Thanks Paul!"

My first time mixing HSRF

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119114&d=1576645511

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118942&d=1576376402

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118938&d=1576376150

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118939&d=1576376245

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118941&d=1576376292

Mark Eaton

12-23-2019, 08:00 PM

I also ground down the parting lines and trimmed 1/8" off the hood, trunk and doors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119116&d=1576645930

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119117&d=1576645986

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119115&d=1576645892

I have enjoyed doing rudimentary body work myself but I will hold off on any further because I want to finish enough to drive this thing legally.

Mark Eaton

01-04-2020, 11:37 PM

I didn't have a good picture in my mind of how these are supposed to fit together. For some reason I thought the light should fit flush in the bucket and because of that I puzzled over this thing needlessly for some time. And I damn near modified the bucket. I will post two photos which would have helped me tremendously in understanding how it fits together...

Here they are:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120073&d=1578196169

and here, the yellow arrow is where the mounting flange screws into the bucket. That wasn't clear to me in the instructions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120074&d=1578196195

I did have to open up the holes a little, and I drilled for M5 bolts which I used with Nylock nuts. I prefer M5's over the acclaimed #10-32 bolts, they seem sturdier to me and thread with less effort.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120072&d=1578196123

Final product. I didn't realize the mounting flange would be so prominent. I will take it all apart later and powder coat that with my beloved "Misty Lava" from Prismatic Powders.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120075&d=1578196232

Mark Eaton

01-11-2020, 10:27 PM

I have been wanting to Powder Coat my gas cap with the Misty Lava powder. Wasn't sure how to tape it off in order to maintain it's functionality or whatever so I just taped off the spring on the latch and removed the inner gasket and powedered the rest. Here it is...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120454&d=1578798970

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120455&d=1578799007

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120456&d=1578799049

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120457&d=1578799082

Overall it turned out well. I have oval top #8-32 machine screws on order from McMaster which I will powder coat to match. Next up, the hood and trunk handles.

Railroad

01-12-2020, 12:45 PM

Good job. You probably know about the hi temp tape and silicone plugs offered by Eastwood. They work well on keeping the powder coat out of places it is not wanted.

Mark Eaton

01-19-2020, 09:55 AM

In build school they made it clear to take your time with this, don't rush, plan to spend a day doing it. I read a lot to threads. Below are 2 posts that helped a lot. the first is Fixit's post. Next is a drawing by CraigS that really helped me understand in 3-D how this thing is supposed to fit together.

Fixit: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Windshield&p=367063&viewfull=1#post367063

CraigS: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34075-Windshield-alignment&p=388335&viewfull=1#post388335

I will say that I really HATE brass. I just don't like the way it behaves.

First up you screw the BRASS side posts into the windscreen frame. I used antisieze and made sure the screws were correct size and thread. They all screwed in nicely, 5M x 5mm, nice looking oval top philips machine screws. All of them too long. I measured the holes and they were all consistent at about 4.66mm depth. I ground each screw as shown.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120870&d=1579444197

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120869&d=1579444155

Next up was bending the brass side posts to try to get them in proper 90º orientation. Here are photos of what it looked like out of the box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120871&d=1579444239

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120872&d=1579444267

As expected, not in the required 90º planes. I removed each side post 6-7 times and carefully bent and torqued to get into the proper planes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120873&d=1579444381

Mark Eaton

01-19-2020, 10:13 AM

The back and forth of removing and reinstalling the side bars to get them bent properly was a bit tedious. I forced myself to be patient and resist the urge to just bend them while attached to the windscreen. Ultimately, I arrived as close as I was going to get it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120874&d=1579444422

It was worth the effort because she then snuggled right down onto the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120876&d=1579444556

I Trimmed the side posts at 13” from the lowest hole at 45º. Also drilled and tapped the side bar holes to 1/2-13 using a 27/64” bit.

All good! It feels solid.

Papa

01-19-2020, 10:31 AM

Mark,

Nice work on the windshield. I was lucky to have one of the founders of the build school in my shop who guided me through the initial installation. It certainly gave me piece of mind that it would go together without breaking it. One of the tricks he showed me was when installing the side rails you slowly turn the screws in while gently wiggling the rail. If the screw bottoms out and there is still movement on the rail, the screws need to be filled down.

Your build is coming right along. Keep up the good work.

Dave

cv2065

01-19-2020, 10:54 AM

Looks great Mark. Its one of the final things I have to do as well.

TMartinLVNV

01-19-2020, 11:34 AM

Mark, this is very timely for me. As with many other parts of the build, I'll be using your posts as a guide. Did you fit the windshield into place solo or did you have a helper?

Fixit

01-19-2020, 11:44 AM

Very cool!!
Nice to see the youngsters involved... but one thing - get some real shoes on the boy in the shop. Flops are not good/safe in a shop environment!

Mark Eaton

01-19-2020, 11:24 PM

Mark, this is very timely for me. As with many other parts of the build, I'll be using your posts as a guide. Did you fit the windshield into place solo or did you have a helper?

Terry, I actually installed it by myself. It is not heavy just a little awkward. i did have to widen the DS side slot a little with some 80 grit.

Mark

Vspeeds

01-20-2020, 12:22 AM

Mark
I haven't been on the site in awhile. You've made some great progress. And I love all of your do-it-yourself things, like powder coating, etc.

Mark Eaton

01-20-2020, 12:41 AM

Very cool!!
Nice to see the youngsters involved... but one thing - get some real shoes on the boy in the shop. Flops are not good/safe in a shop environment!

Thanks John, You are correct. That photo was taken 8/2017 when the kit first arrived and I hadn't quit prepared the shop. I currently run full safety at all times. Everybody wears proper eye gear, gloves and footwear whenever they are working in the shop!

Mark Eaton

01-27-2020, 11:36 PM

Nothing too exciting here. I would characterize the wiper install as fairly tedious and irritating. The fact that I had to work around my heater and fire suppression system didn't help. As usual I surfed the forum for ideas. The kit comes with very cool 5/16" SS tubing. It is more difficult to work with than the plain NICOP which I had accumulated from my brake line debacle. I got frustrated and went with the NICOP. In my view the real achilles tendon of this procedure is the sh*ty ferrule nut which needs to thread PERFECTLY onto the wiper motor assembly. It is fine thread and in a tricky position. And did I mention that my heater and fire suppression bottle were in the way??

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121483&d=1580185161

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121482&d=1580185156

At any rate, I finally got it all installed and it runs impressively smoothly.:)

Vspeeds

01-30-2020, 09:01 AM

Mark
I had a tough job getting that ferrule nut on also. I was on the fence about buying a wiper system, but glad I installed a working wiper as I needed to use it on my commute in to work. Hopefully you wouldn't have to use them.

Mark Eaton

02-04-2020, 06:09 PM

Once again the most helpful thread for me was Edwardb's 8674 thread. I did his latch mod, here's the link
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=259469&viewfull=1#post259469

First off slot the outer holes to get the nut plates with HSRF in. Also, orient them transversely...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121747&d=1580447910

Here they are from underneath.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121748&d=1580447936

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121749&d=1580447964

Shark gives a good description of how to do it here

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27777-Shark92651-s-MK4-Coyote-Build-9327-fully-titled-and-registered-now&p=374958&viewfull=1#post374958

Mark Eaton

02-04-2020, 06:17 PM

I powder coated the latches

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121750&d=1580447996

I made new catches out of 1" square steel and notched them

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121753&d=1580448095

Nosed it in and it snuggled right down into place without much drama...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121751&d=1580448045

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121752&d=1580448069

I also found these awesome mirrors from a Porsche 356 thanks to GodadGo!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121819&d=1580534027

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121818&d=1580533997

Mark Eaton

02-10-2020, 09:47 PM

I am on a serious push to get street legal right now. I have my sites set on the Huntington beach show. My intention is to drive the Roadster from Meford , OR to Huntington Beach CA. It is 730 miles and I have my brother planning to fly in from New Mexico and drive with me. I can hardly wait!!!

But first I need to be street legal. I have made significant progress in January and am about to document en masse...

Here are the doors, not even close to their final position but good enough for inspection, I think...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121820&d=1580535734

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121821&d=1580535756

I used to those God awful self tapping screws for the latches.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121822&d=1580535781

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121823&d=1580535807

They actually open and close really nice and solid!!

Mark Eaton

02-10-2020, 10:24 PM

This is pretty straightforward

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122362&d=1581390483

I made a fancy license plate bracket thing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122361&d=1581390452

And an inside cover, not because it's needed but because it was fun to do. I used M5 nut plates, four of them held and two broke off. So I then put in two 5M rivnuts, and one of those got all jacked up. I'll deal with that later it's not necessary for "Street Legal"...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122363&d=1581390509

Of course I couldn't help myself and installed LED lights for the license plate bracket. these are form superbrightled.com. Part# MAL-S-WW2

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122364&d=1581390535

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122365&d=1581390566

Finally, the only tricky part of all this, because of all my trunk mods the "catch" couldn't be installed as per the manual so I tapped the back of the trunk with a #10-24 tap and screwed in the FFR screw with sheath powder coated to Misty Lava, of course. Don't judge the carpet

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122366&d=1581390594

TMartinLVNV

02-10-2020, 11:23 PM

Mark, it's looking real good. I think you will be able to drive yours to Huntington. I can't wait to see it in person. I won't have mine there :(

Mark Eaton

02-13-2020, 11:51 PM

A couple months ago my father was in town and we worked on some radiator cowls and mesh covers for the oil cooler and front brake vent holes. Also, I had been working on a bracket for fog lights. I got everything powder coated and installed using adhesive mount studs from McMaster and HSRF.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121946&d=1580856742

Here are the fog lights mounted on a bracket and secured to the body using the adhesive mount studs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121947&d=1580856797

Radiator cowls and radiator mesh. All installed using nutserts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121944&d=1580856655

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121948&d=1580856830

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121945&d=1580856700

Lights work!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121949&d=1580856882

Mark Eaton

02-14-2020, 12:14 AM

I trimmed the splash guards, fabricated two extra for the rear as demonstrated by Edwardb, coated them with the left over Raptor truck Bedliner from my body, and secured with a variety of #10-32 nutserts, Adhesive mount studs and self tapping screws (using tap magic).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122515&d=1581656586

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122516&d=1581656621

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122517&d=1581656660

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122518&d=1581656696

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122520&d=1581656756

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122519&d=1581656727

toadster

02-14-2020, 02:25 PM

awesome work and pics! keep it up!

Mark Eaton

02-15-2020, 08:38 PM

It took me two days to get these fairly ok. I used the "nibble" technique so that I wouldn't make the cut outs too large. I had to fabricate some couplers for the mounting brackets. I have a feeling I'll be fabricating another set of couplers before all is said and done, although, I'm pretty happy with how they are at the moment. I put 5/16" Nutserts in the chassis to secure the mounting brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122280&d=1581312621

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122281&d=1581312641

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122282&d=1581312661

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122283&d=1581312683

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122285&d=1581312724

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122284&d=1581312700

Mark Eaton

02-20-2020, 09:50 PM

I have been working on my headrests for some time. I got the idea when I was at the HB show in 2018. Also, my Cubby sound system modification forced me to remove the normal anchor tabs for the shoulder belts and relocate as shown. I designed and made the head rest template then took it to a custom auto upholstery shop to have them made. They used my left over cow hide.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122861&d=1582252872

I completed them last weekend.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122859&d=1582252676

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122860&d=1582252704

Jeff Kleiner

02-21-2020, 06:28 AM

I'm afraid that with the belts mounted in those locations if they ever had to do the job they were intended for they'd squeeze your neck and try to pinch your head off. Just sayin'...

Jeff

Mark Eaton

02-22-2020, 12:22 AM

That would be a bummer. Jeff, come check it out at the HB show.

Mark

Mark Eaton

03-11-2020, 10:47 PM

I had a good conversation with one of our sheriffs the other night in the emergency room. As a general surgeon in a small town I interact with these guys a lot. In the eyes of the law in Oregon every car, regardless of vintage, must have a front and rear plate. Out of respect for the badge I acquiesce...

I modified this obsolete hood thingy...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123976&d=1583983743

and made some brackets ...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123977&d=1583983833

powder coated with misty lava from Prismatic Powders

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123978&d=1583983869

Good enough for me

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123975&d=1583983704

Vspeeds

03-12-2020, 09:10 AM

I love how you’re fabricating things on your build. Can’t wait to see it at Huntington Beach

Mark Eaton

03-15-2020, 08:17 PM

I went ahead and installed the under door aluminum. Very easy and adds a lot to the cockpit. I went ahead and powder coated, of course. The panels wouldn't fit in my oven so I did my Youtube technique. This probably puts me at risk for self combustion but so far haven't had any fires...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124102&d=1584320370

Incidentally, I have been working on plans to build my own powder coat oven large enough to fit any of the FFR panels

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124103&d=1584320410

I used rivets but no silicone and no carpet yet. Will wait on that until final paint etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124104&d=1584320431

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124105&d=1584320455

I made two significant discoveries this week. The first is that Prismatic Powders, my favorite online powder coat store is based right here in White City Oregon! One of my scrub techs told me I should visit her boyfriends job site which produced powders. Turns out its Prismatic Powders. Small world, I went ahead and visited and discovered Cerakote. More on that later.

The other discovery is that the shop I have been seriously considering for painting my MK4 looks to be out of business... :(

Vspeeds

03-16-2020, 11:35 AM

Mark
I've seen Cerakote on firearms and decided to use the stuff on my undercar exhaust. I used the Titanium color and it turned out awesome.

Vspeeds

03-29-2020, 06:23 PM

Mark
Will you be able to make it to Huntington Beach with the new tentative schedule? Itll be good to see you and id love to see your car.

Mark Eaton

03-29-2020, 09:07 PM

jwd

03-29-2020, 09:21 PM

Hey Mark you have progressed nicely! Hope to see it blasting around down there soon. Ive been stuck in Eugene during this whole pandemic thing but have made a lot of progress. I have several friends in your field and know what you guys face everyday- please stay safe!

Mark Eaton

03-29-2020, 10:30 PM

I emerged from the Hospital Friday morning with 72 hrs off and went straight to my shop. More than anything else I need to get away from the drama. We haven't been hit hard by Covid 19 at this point but the mental stress is taking its toll on the staff at multiple levels.

At any rate, I've spent alot of time on my wiring and it bothers me that these are exposed to road debris from the front tires.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125276&d=1585538102

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125274&d=1585537973

I fabricated some panels, coated them with the left over raptor truck Bedliner I had used on the underside of the body. I fabricated brackets and mounted them with adhesive stud mounts from McMaster (secured with HSRF). I also had extra bulb seal left over. Here is what they look like. Probably over kill but it gave me something to do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125275&d=1585538007

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125277&d=1585538137

I have 450 miles on her grin every time I turn the key!!

Vspeeds

03-31-2020, 12:32 AM

Eddie, I would love to catch up at the rescheduled Huntington Beach Cruise in. Its on my radar. There's alot of life between now and then! I just have to get through this virus pandemic thing. Other than that I have every intention of being present.

Mark

Mark
Your project is coming along and your car looks awesome.
Thank you for doing what you do. Stay safe and healthy and we’ll see you in Huntington Beach.
Eddie

Caddy Dad

04-13-2020, 10:09 PM

Mark Eaton

04-13-2020, 10:58 PM

Mark Eaton

04-15-2020, 07:59 PM

I have been planning this for a while decided to go with caliper paint which is inexpensive and easy to reapply when it wears out. Also, needed to do something to keep from burning my leg all the time. For the paint I used the VHT product. I almost went with this Cerakote coating which I think would be really awesome and I'll probably use it on my next build. It is used on guns, check them out here https://www.cerakote.com . It is expensive.

Here is what I did.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126545&d=1586997829

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126546&d=1586997862

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126547&d=1586997923

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126549&d=1586997973

The wrap is DE titanium wrap, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722ZGQH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I used these stainless steel zip ties https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P2W2VCJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overall I'm very happy with it. The pipes still get hot but not enough to burn.

Mark Eaton

04-28-2020, 11:20 PM

I used the laser level to center my hood scoop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127177&d=1587826517

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127178&d=1587826542

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127179&d=1587826578

I marked it and drilled for M5 screws . Then I cut a hole for it with my reciprocating saw. I fused the fiberglass layers with HSRF

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127431&d=1588133904

I also worked on the gapping for the good with some 80 grit. I still a way to go.

Bob Cowan

04-29-2020, 12:13 AM

I had a good conversation with one of our sheriffs the other night in the emergency room. As a general surgeon in a small town I interact with these guys a lot. In the eyes of the law in Oregon every car, regardless of vintage, must have a front and rear plate. Out of respect for the badge I acquiesce...

I modified this obsolete hood thingy...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123976&d=1583983743

and made some brackets ...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123977&d=1583983833

I hate to tell you this, but this is not going to work. That license plate is just hanging out there in space, with no real support. There is so much wind resistance that the plate will be flapping back and forth like a flag. It will fatigue the metal, and it will fracture right where it bolts to the quick jack.

You need to add a support behind the other end of the plate to attach it to the body to keep it stable.

https://i.imgur.com/2Gt5uXb.jpg

Guess how I know this? :)

Mark Eaton

05-01-2020, 08:04 PM

Thanks Bob, I'll rig something up similar to yours!

Mark Eaton

05-01-2020, 08:13 PM

I can't find a satisfying place to secure rear straps for travel in the trailer so I decided to weld on some rings which I got at my local farm supply store. The rings are rated at 5000lbs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126731&d=1587252693
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126942&d=1587602374

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127574&d=1588381122

Here she is all strapped down and ready to travel to the Huntington Beach Cruise In!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127575&d=1588381149

Mark Eaton

05-10-2020, 09:20 PM

Here it is!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128132&d=1589161191

All I can say at this point is THIS CAR IS SO MUCH FUN TO DRIVE!

Some observations,

Wind: I don't have my wind wings or sun visor installed so its pretty windy. In fact, any hat I put on blows off at 45mph so I just gave up and use a lot of sunscreen. No hats.

Eyewear: Because of the wind I found I need protective eyewear, these glasses are great. Notice the side shields.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128133&d=1589161238

Next is the sound system. Sound systems sometimes turns into a contentious discussion on this forum. But this is my build thread and what I'll say is that I LOVE my sound system. I went all out and got a very high quality system which is so important. Here it is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128134&d=1589161308

I can tell you that if I crank it up to about 75% capacity it will drown out my DART 347 racing engine at highway speed. Is it loud? HELL YES! Its loud enough that I can wear ear plugs and still "feel" the music. But it is a quality system and doesn't really hurt the ears until it reaches stupid high decibels. I know we are all different but I am so happy that I installed this thing. I got the idea of the "behind the seat amphitheater" from Saul "Blown 5.0" whom is no longer with us.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128135&d=1589161343

Fman

05-10-2020, 09:59 PM

cv2065

05-10-2020, 10:37 PM

Looking great Mark. I'll have to re-read your thread to see how you fit those subs back there, as I barely have enough room for a pancake sub. I'm sure it sounds great!

GoDadGo

05-11-2020, 06:52 AM

Congratulations On Achieving 1,000 Miles Dr. Mark.
On a personal note, I love those mirrors too.

Mark Eaton

05-11-2020, 09:44 PM

Looking good, nice work on the sounds system... 1000 miles already! Your thread updates are good motivation for me, I got such a long way to go:D

After 1000 miles how are you liking the Sniper EFI? 347 meeting expecations?

The 347 more than meets expectations, it frankly scares me sometimes. The Sniper has been very care free, she idles a little rough at first but then becomes super smooth and responsive. I haven't been to sea level yet but have been to 6000ft , no problems! I can't help but think that it is so easy because Forte dialed the whole thing in when he dyno'd it.

Mark Eaton

05-11-2020, 09:45 PM

Looking great Mark. I'll have to re-read your thread to see how you fit those subs back there, as I barely have enough room for a pancake sub. I'm sure it sounds great!

PM if you need to see more photos

Mark Eaton

05-11-2020, 09:46 PM

Congratulations On Achieving 1,000 Miles Dr. Mark.
On a personal note, I love those mirrors too.

Great mirrors! You know where I got the idea for those :D

Vspeeds

05-12-2020, 11:33 AM

I love it...1000 miles already! I use the blutooth JBL Charge4 speaker and it suffices for me even with earplugs in. I can’t imagine what your system sounds like. But I’m sure the quality of sound is awesome.

shark92651

05-13-2020, 07:34 AM

The headlights are Lumen® SB7150FA-BLK - 7" Round Black Projector LED Headlights with Switchback Halo . The fog lights are also Lumen® - 3" Round Halo Projector LED Fog Lights

I replaced the center lights on the fogs with these Lumen® - H11 Standard Series Replacement LED Bulb blue. I bought them from Carid.com

HTH

Mark,

Do you recommend those 3" fog lights? The ones I put in my car turned out to be crap and both of them quit working after about 600 miles on the car. The plastic halo rings actually melted and deformed from the heat of operating them. I'm looking for a good replacement, but not a lot of options out there with both halo and projector in the 3" size.

Thanks,
David

Mark Eaton

05-13-2020, 10:30 PM

Mark,

Do you recommend those 3" fog lights? The ones I put in my car turned out to be crap and both of them quit working after about 600 miles on the car. The plastic halo rings actually melted and deformed from the heat of operating them. I'm looking for a good replacement, but not a lot of options out there with both halo and projector in the 3" size.

Thanks,
David

David, So far so good, although I'm no expert on lights. I turn them on every time I drive and they still work well. I think the company that makes them has a pretty good reputation from the research I did. It is kind of mind boggling all of the companies out there that make after market LED lights for vehicles. I'm not quit sure how to sort through all of it. The website I purchased them from (CARiD.com) have online technicians whom seem to know the products well.

HTH

Mark

Mark Eaton

06-29-2020, 08:14 PM

A few weeks ago we rented a VRBO and headed to the coast for an extended weekend. The boys brought a buddy. I drove the Cobra and my wife followed in the my truck with car hauler. It was a 3 hr drive through the beautiful Oregon wilderness. It is so much fun to drive this car! I thought I'd share some photos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130769&d=1593478982

Here's my crew,

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130770&d=1593479023

Such a beautiful State,

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130771&d=1593479060

Vspeeds

09-30-2020, 11:28 PM

Hey Mark
I was thinking of you and your build and looked you up on the forum. I just saw this post. Glad you got it street legal. Isn’t it an awesome car! I have over 11000 miles on mine since January. Hopefully I’ll see it in person in 2021 in Huntington Beach.

cgundermann

09-30-2020, 11:44 PM

Hey Mark, I haven’t been on the forum much for a while (health, move etc.), but, just catching up on your build and you have really been trucking along and with some pretty cool personal creative touches! Glad to see you and the family getting out and enjoying it. It never gets old driving these beasts! I am close to finishing up my shop with the addition of a two post lift to augment my moveable four post. Now that my shop is completely finished, I’m gearing up for another build...

Can’t wait to see how you paint your snake!

Chris

Mark Eaton

10-01-2020, 05:31 PM

Thanks for the comments guys. I will definitely drive her down to Huntington beach in 2021 and hope to see both of you guys down there! I just rolled 3000 miles the other day, so much fun to drive. Painting and body work is on hold for now as I have started my next project already, an 818C with my youngest son(14yo). We will start a separate build thread for that soon. Hoping to get it finished in time for his 16th birthday.

Mark

Blitzboy54

10-22-2020, 06:25 PM

Mark Eaton

10-22-2020, 11:17 PM

Thanks Blitzboy54 , its not period correct but it sure adds to the driving experience!

nucjd19

10-26-2020, 10:02 PM

Excellent build thread Mark! Actually yours was one of the very first I started following when I decided I was going to finally purchase a Roadster. A quick question when you get a chance. I am a physician as well with kids ( 7 and 9 yo girls). I am curious how you fit your work schedule and family commitments into your build. My build will be finished 11/14 ( Roadster complete, 3 Link, 347 BPE/TKO600 carb 17" wheels etc) and my game plan is similar to you with cruising with the wife mainly and rare track day.

Mark Eaton

10-27-2020, 10:48 PM

Mark Eaton

03-22-2021, 07:50 PM

So, my MK4 was street legal last year 2/2020. A couple weeks ago I rolled 4000 miles and the car is running great. I have to say that I couldn't be happier with it. I changed the oil and filter and greased all the zero fittings. I think there were 20. I also put her up on the lift to assess the Raptor undercoating. It is holding out well!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144921&d=1616388770

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144923&d=1616388830

I need to recheck the alignment and reset the coil overs to make sure there is even distribution of weight. Also, I took her to a pro shop about 7 months ago but they didn't want to touch the alignment. I expected that. Here are a couple photos of the undercarriage UPOL Raptor coating. The car is a little dirty but that bedliner is solid, no chipping, it looks great. Also, I have been driving intermittently all winter on gravely roads.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144924&d=1616388864

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144922&d=1616388800

JB in NOVA

03-22-2021, 10:33 PM

Fman

03-22-2021, 10:48 PM

Mark Eaton

03-22-2021, 11:17 PM

Mark, thanks a lot for posting this. These "a year later" posts are really informative for those of us still in the build process. It looks like the bottom and inner edges of the front wheel wells take some abuse. Are there any things you would advise (e.g., extra protection in the wheel wells, heating/insulation issues, etc.) based on your experience so far?

JB,

I fabricated extra front splash guards as well as some for the rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25895-Eaton-s-Mk4-9130-Oregon-Build-First-Year-of-Street-legal-driving&p=404778&viewfull=1#post404778

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122520&d=1581656756

Also, I sprayed the entire body and splash guards with Raptor truck bed liner. This stuff

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CKE7E9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am amazed how well it has held out despite fairly aggressive winter driving.

Mark Eaton

03-22-2021, 11:28 PM

Another question Mark, you mentioned you took the car to alignment shop and they did not want to touch it? What was the reason they did not want to align your car?

Congrats on the 4k miles and 1 year... keep on rockin'!

Travis,

I think they were a little intimidated by it. First off, it was too low to drive up on their lift and they didn't have a floor jack low and long enough to help get it up on the machine. The guy helping me seemed pretty young and he wanted me to come back another day when the most experienced guy would be there. I just never made it back. Instead I have invested in some high quality LongAcre alignment equipment and I enjoy doing it myself. It's really not difficult, it just takes repetition, tweak it , drive, tweak it, drive. Plus, I figure it will go out every now and then and I don't want to need to rely on somebody else to align it.

Mark Eaton

03-22-2021, 11:38 PM

Mark, thanks a lot for posting this. These "a year later" posts are really informative for those of us still in the build process. It looks like the bottom and inner edges of the front wheel wells take some abuse. Are there any things you would advise (e.g., extra protection in the wheel wells, heating/insulation issues, etc.) based on your experience so far?

JB,

One other thing that comes to mind. In that third photo you can see how my DHT paint on the side pipes is fading if not completely burnt off. No big deal, that was like $35 worth of rattle can paint and it looked good for about 2000 miles. Next time I will try Cerakote! I have thought about sand blasting them and applying Cerakote but I have read too many times where the FFR side pipes start to sound bad and need to be replaced. These pipes still sound good and they won't fit in my blast cabinet so I'll stick with the DHT for now