#998 Build Page

[HVACMAN]

I have been posting mostly on the other forum, but decided to start a page here also. This is my first build since a 1957 Bel Air Two Door Hardtop in high school. Warning!! I spend most of my nonworking time in the garage and not at the computer, (I stare at a computer screen 10 hours a day) so my posts are irregular at best. #998 stage one was started on May 1st. after the inventory was completed and will be an old school hot rod with a hard top, no side panels, and no hood. It will be LS3 powered, with an auto trans, and 3.73 gear. Here is where I am so far:

Powder Coating: complete
Rear suspension: complete (QA1's and adjustable 4 link)
Front suspension: complete (QA1's & Delrin bushings)
Front Brakes: complete (13' Wilwood's)
Firewall & foot boxes: Fit but not mounted
Rack & Tie Rods: complete
Pedal Box & Master cylinders: mounted
Steering column: mounted
694636946469465

[HVACMAN]

Have any of you guys doing LS3 builds used the FF power steering kit? Problems? Alternate suggestions?

[wallace18]

I am currently building a 33 with the LS3. I will let you know about the electric P/S when I get there. I have been told by others you just need to reclock it some.

[HVACMAN]

I am currently building a 33 with the LS3. I will let you know about the electric P/S when I get there. I have been told by others you just need to reclock it some.

Thanks Wallace. I originally planned on manual steering but it looks like shoulder surgery may be in my future.

[HVACMAN]

I have a couple of questions (probably rookie) that just scream for answers. I have looked through manual several times.

1. What are the torque specs. for the rack mount.
2. What are the torque specs. for the tie rod ends where they attach to the spindles.
3. I wonder why FF didn't put the rack mount on the list of parts that need powder coating.
4. I received 4 extra bolts and nuts with the steering column mounting hardware. They are 5/16" x 20 x 1 1/2" button head with lock nuts.

Any help would be appreciated.

[HVACMAN]

I have a couple of questions (probably rookie) that just scream for answers. I have looked through manual several times.

1. What are the torque specs. for the rack mount.
2. What are the torque specs. for the tie rod ends where they attach to the spindles.
3. I wonder why FF didn't put the rack mount on the list of parts that need powder coating.
4. I received 4 extra bolts and nuts with the steering column mounting hardware. They are 5/16" x 20 x 1 1/2" button head with lock nuts.

Any help would be appreciated.

Well..... Number 4 really was a stupid question. I was sitting at my work bench last night taking a picture of the "extra bolts" when I looked over at the steering shaft bearings, and the light bulb came on.

[TDSapp]

HVACMan,

Check out the table on Appendix J around page 710 of the manual. If not stated in the directions they have a table that has the torque values based off the bolt sizes.



Tim

[HVACMAN]

HVACMan,

Check out the table on Appendix J around page 710 of the manual. If not stated in the directions they have a table that has the torque values based off the bolt sizes.



Tim

Thanks Tim, I'll check it out.

[HVACMAN]

Is anyone polishing the firewall and foot boxes?

[HVACMAN]

Looks like I'll spend the evening making hurricane preparations. I checked the generator, chainsaw, and filled the vehicles and gas cans last night. Tonight I'll get everything in the garage up as high as possible, make a trip to the grocery store, fill water cans, then work on the car some. I just hope this thing doesn't skip up the coast like they are predicting.

[HVACMAN]

Looks like I'll spend the evening making hurricane preparations. I checked the generator, chainsaw, and filled the vehicles and gas cans last night. Tonight I'll get everything in the garage up as high as possible, make a trip to the grocery store, fill water cans, then work on the car some. I just hope this thing doesn't skip up the coast like they are predicting.

25+ inches of rain so far with no relief in site until maybe Thursday. The garage is high and dry so far but it's been close a few times.

[Dodgeman]

I'm 85 miles north of Houston and its been raining nonstop since Saturday, rain gauge says 22 inches so far. I'm also high and dry.

[HVACMAN]

I'm 85 miles north of Houston and its been raining nonstop since Saturday, rain gauge says 22 inches so far. I'm also high and dry.

I'm glad ya'll are doing well, a lot are not as lucky as we are. We got another five inches since midnight. I hope this will be the last bad day.

[HVACMAN]

I'm glad ya'll are doing well, a lot are not as lucky as we are. We got another five inches since midnight. I hope this will be the last bad day.
I'm back. It's been a busy several days. We wound up getting 21.5 inches of rain on the 29th and 44" overall. I had 4" of water in the house and 8" in the garage, but we were SO much more fortunate than most. I hope to get back to the build this weekend.

[HVACMAN]

Finally got back on the build this weekend after having 4 cervical fusions at the end of September. I leveled the car and marked all center lines with a laser. I also squared up the 4-link and marked all torqued fasteners. I'm trying to take it slow.

[HVACMAN]

I'm just putting this out there for any of you guys with current builds that haven't completed the A/C install. As of January 1, 2018 the new EPA regulations will take effect concerning refrigerants. Going forward an EPA certification will be required to purchase ANY refrigerant. I expect all of the "R-134A charging kits, etc." will disappear from the local auto parts stores shelves. If you are planning to do it yourself, you might want to make that purchase between now and the end of the year.

[mgh]

I'm just putting this out there for any of you guys with current builds that haven't completed the A/C install. As of January 1, 2018 the new EPA regulations will take effect concerning refrigerants. Going forward an EPA certification will be required to purchase ANY refrigerant. I expect all of the "R-134A charging kits, etc." will disappear from the local auto parts stores shelves. If you are planning to do it yourself, you might want to make that purchase between now and the end of the year.

Thanks for the heads up, I haven't started mine yet so will be going tomorrow to get one.

[wallace18]

I'm just putting this out there for any of you guys with current builds that haven't completed the A/C install. As of January 1, 2018 the new EPA regulations will take effect concerning refrigerants. Going forward an EPA certification will be required to purchase ANY refrigerant. I expect all of the "R-134A charging kits, etc." will disappear from the local auto parts stores shelves. If you are planning to do it yourself, you might want to make that purchase between now and the end of the year.

It seems only 30lb cylinders are affected not the small cans.

[HVACMAN]

It seems only 30lb cylinders are affected not the small cans.

Wallace you are correct. I finally read the entire section 608 and it does exempt the small cans providing they are equipped with self sealing valves. I apologize for the misinformation.

[HVACMAN]

I finally had some time to work on the car over the holidays. I sprayed the firewall with lizard skin and mounted it. I mounted the brake reservoir and started on the steering linkage. I'll have to set the engine and trans in so I can determine where to clock the power steering motor. Next I assembled and mocked up the E- brake system. I also picked up a set of Foose wheels for $100 that were salvaged from an 08 Mustang that was flooded during the Hurricane. i will get some used tires installed to make it a rolling chassis. Also my early Christmas present arrived. 77183771847718577186

[erlihemi]

Congrats on the early Christmas present!! Did it arrive on the white sled with the funny fender emblem in the pic??

[wallace18]

I mounted my fluid reservoirs like yours initially. The outside one will hit the hood. I had to move my clutch one to inside the firewall. Just a heads up while you are in the initial stage here.

[RoadRacer]

Also my early Christmas present arrived.

Ha! The wheels/tires I found were my early (perhaps only) Christmas present according to my wife :)

[HVACMAN]

I mounted my fluid reservoirs like yours initially. The outside one will hit the hood. I had to move my clutch one to inside the firewall. Just a heads up while you are in the initial stage here.

Thanks for the heads up Wallace but I'm not going to run a hood or side covers.

[HVACMAN]

I saw this for sale in front of the local NAPA store on the way home from work yesterday.
772127721377214

[HVACMAN]

I learned last night that anyone who runs brake lines for a living deserves a special place in heaven.

[progmgr1]

I learned last night that anyone who runs brake lines for a living deserves a special place in heaven.

That made me laugh out loud, until I realized that I'm facing that job next (cue "Jaws" theme song)...
Keith

[HVACMAN]

I am missing the four brake line mounts and clips that rivet to the frame. Should they be packaged with the tee’s couplings, and other hardware? I don’t even see them on the inventory sheets.

[Tampa33Build]

I thought the same thing, found them in box 30 with the power windows kit with the e-brake cable.

[HVACMAN]

I thought the same thing, found them in box 30 with the power windows kit with the e-brake cable.

Hmmm....... I didn’t order power windows, so I guess I’ll go through everything again. Thanks

[HVACMAN]

Over all it was a productive weekend. I was able to run the front brake lines until I figured out that I didn't have the mounting tabs and a few other items. After several hours researching, the parts are on order. Saturday I was able to get the engine and transmission installed. This allowed me to determine the position of the power steering motor. Also I need to determine what to do about the thermostat housing and determine if 77411774127741377414the driveshaft fits.

[HVACMAN]

The Boyd's Fuel Tank arrived last night. Their craftsmanship is amazing!!7749177492

[erlihemi]

You will be much happier with that tank. Good Choice.

[HVACMAN]

I woke up to this yesterday morning.77625
It's pretty unusual for the Gulf Coast. Today I was able to get the other two holes drilled for the power steering and get them painted. I also worked on the brake lines but the rest of my brake parts from Jegs, that were supposed to arrive today, are AWOL.
Other than that it was a fun afternoon in the shop.

[HVACMAN]

I worked on the car all weekend and didn’t have a list of parts to order on Monday. The correct driveshaft did come today. That was a welcome site and the rest of my brake parts finally showed up.

[JimLev]

You will be much happier with that tank. Good Choice.
What's the advantage of the Boyd's fuel tank over the FF tank?
Does it hold more fuel?

[HVACMAN]

What's the advantage of the Boyd's fuel tank over the FF tank?
Does it hold more fuel?

From what I gather on here and the other forum, the FF tank has quality control issues (leaks) and filling issues. I had it deleted from my kit with the intention of using the Boyd's tank from the start.

[60's Kid]

What is the cost difference once you delete the FF tank

[AJT '33]

I would expect that the FFR Tanks be required to have a pressure test done on them prior to being sold to us? I would expect this would be industry standard especially for a fuel cell.

[TDSapp]

I would expect that the FFR Tanks be required to have a pressure test done on them prior to being sold to us? I would expect this would be industry standard especially for a fuel cell.

I think you will find that it was the seals around the items being put into the tank that were leaking. I have also head that there are two things you can do to the stock tank to resolve the filling issue. One is to put a 3/8" vent tube from the tanks air pocket to the filler cap and the other it to open up the vent on top of the tank with a small drill bit. After that I hear there are no more filling issues.

[HVACMAN]

What is the cost difference once you delete the FF tank

To be honest. I don't remember. I just knew that I didn't want to fight the issues with the factory tank.

[progmgr1]

In 4-16 I got a $195 credit for deleting the fuel tank and associated components, IIRC. Keith

[HVACMAN]

I have managed to work on some of the several projects I have going on the build at the same time. The rear brake hydraulics and emergency brakes are finished. The steering linkage is done but a little tighter than I would like. I'll have to investigate that. One side of the front brakes is complete. I should finish the other side tonight. I may start on the fuel system this weekend or drilling the sheet metal for the floor pan etc.778297783077831778327783377834

[HVACMAN]

I managed to get some things done during the holiday vacation. I found a set of tires for $100 she is now a rolling chassis. Once she was sitting on the ground I realized just how low these things sit. It's going to be like driving a 500 hp go cart.........AWESOME!!!!!!78451 I got the fuel system plumbed. 7845278453 I also finished the transmission mount spacer and did a preliminary check of the drive line angles. Do these look close? 784547845578456

[HVACMAN]

I sure was hoping to get the rest of the Lizard Skin sprayed during the holidays, but with temperatures hoovering in the twenties and thirties most of the time, that did not happen. I did manage to get all of the aluminum drilled and some of the frame (boring), but at least it's progress. Today it's back to work. The closer I get to retirement, the harder it is to go back after two weeks off.

[HVACMAN]

I decided the engine bay needed a little color. The valve covers may be next.79364

[HVACMAN]

No work yesterday. It was 25 degrees and sleeting. This morning it was 15 with a wind chill of -2 outside and 33 in the shop.

[TDSapp]

No work yesterday. It was 25 degrees and sleeting. This morning it was 15 with a wind chill of -2 outside and 33 in the shop.

I feel ya... This morning it was 7 here in Frisco. Even with my propane heater it's hard to get much work done when it is that cold.


Tim

[HVACMAN]

I feel ya... This morning it was 7 here in Frisco. Even with my propane heater it's hard to get much work done when it is that cold.


Tim

Tomorrow morning won't be much better, but on the bright side it should be near 70 this weekend. I might even be able to spray some Lizard Skin. You gotta love Texas weather.

[Dodgeman]

I know the feeling it was 13 this morning, had a water pipe burst at the garage and spent all afternoon repairing it. only got up to 33 this afternoon.

[HVACMAN]

I was able to work on the car some this weekend. The starter and heat shield came in Friday, so I installed them first. It was not a direct bolt in and required fitting of the heat shield, but that's what makes it fun. 79608 My transmission dipstick also arrived, so it went in next. I cant decide exactly where I want it attached to the firewall.7961179612 Then I installed the new Hooker exhaust manifolds. Ooops... I forgot about studs, nuts, and gaskets for the down pipes, so it was off to the auto parts store. 7961379614 Saturday the new shifter arrived from Lokar. I haven't had time to even open the packaging but it looks super cool.79615 The A/C and front accessory drive should be here this week. All in all it was a good weekend.

[wrp]

Looking good

[HVACMAN]

Does anyone have a recommendation on how to break the crankshaft bolt loose on an LS3? I understand
It is torqued to 240 lb. ft. Maybe something that will hold the flex plate?

[NAZ]

Retailers like Summit Racing carry flywheel holding tools that keep the flywheel or flex plate from turning.

[HVACMAN]

Retailers like Summit Racing carry flywheel holding tools that keep the flywheel or flex plate from turning.

Thanks NAZ. I ordered one yesterday. It should be here tomorrow. It's a bit pricey but if it works it will be worth it. I've got my 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and cheater pipe ready.

[HVACMAN]

I have had a problem with the FF down pipe hitting the frame on the right side. 80065I worked all day Saturday loosening motor mounts shifting things around etc. I finally got the laser out to check the drive train alignment. 80067 At the end of the day this was the best I could do. I hope it is enough.80066 Someone suggested prying between the frame and down pipe, but I was afraid of shattering a brand new set of Hooker manifolds. Cast iron and stainless are both pretty brittle. On a better note the accessory drive and A/C came in on Friday. 80068 That will give me plenty to work on in the upcoming weeks and I can start the wiring.

[RoadRacer]

Funny, with my SBC setup I have over an inch clearance there - but the curve on that same downpipe is hard against the chassis rail in the engine bay. But without a transmission yet I'm still hoping to have the adjustment I need.

[HVACMAN]

Funny, with my SBC setup I have over an inch clearance there - but the curve on that same downpipe is hard against the chassis rail in the engine bay. But without a transmission yet I'm still hoping to have the adjustment I need.

It just seems odd. I have probably 1/2 inch of clearance on the driver side. 80107 I tried swapping sides but that makes it worse.

[HVACMAN]

Well I broke the crankshaft bolt loose last night. It's amazing how easy things are when you have the right tools.802618026280260 This little jewel was worth it's weight in gold. However why is it soooo..... much harder to pull 240 lb. ft. of torque now, than it was 30 years ago?

[TxMike64]

Yay for one-time-use tools....

::rolleyes::

[RoadRacer]

Man, that's some fancy tool. I just stick an old crowbar in there that happens to mesh with teeth pretty well. I love the length of that breaker bar LOL

[HVACMAN]

Man, that's some fancy tool. I just stick an old crowbar in there that happens to mesh with teeth pretty well. I love the length of that breaker bar LOL

I couldn't use the pry bar. I ran out of hands and the wife refused to get on the creeper. lol! I knew I had saved that old jack handle for something.

[HVACMAN]

Yay for one-time-use tools....

::rolleyes::

I hope I don't need it again, but you never know. I think it will fit most all GM V8's.

[HVACMAN]

Is there a reason to/or not to go ahead and fill the drive train with fluids?

[TDSapp]

Is there a reason to/or not to go ahead and fill the drive train with fluids?

Is there a chance that you are going to have to pull the motor and trans again? If not then fill and forget. But if you don't fill it... make sure you don't forget it. Heard of several motors get ruined when they got Go-Fever and forgot to put in the fluids before starting it.

[HVACMAN]

Is there a chance that you are going to have to pull the motor and trans again? If not then fill and forget. But if you don't fill it... make sure you don't forget it. Heard of several motors get ruined when they got Go-Fever and forgot to put in the fluids before starting it.

Exactly Tim!! I don't plan on pulling the motor again. I do maintain a list of "to do's" on a white board in the shop, but why take a chance. That would be one expensive mistake. Thank you.

[bakerboerne]

I hope I don't need it again, but you never know. I think it will fit most all GM V8's.

Some of the LS harmonic balancer bolts are 1 time use. You might look at the ARP bolt to replace the stock one. Also if you are going to pull or move the harmonic balancer you should look at the Preform Installation Tool 66519.
Don't beat on the balancer with a hammer. Also on the exhaust, you will have some more fit work todo when you bolt the flat pipe on the back of the down pipe, on the passenger side. It has to go through frame and it is tight. I made sure the
flat pipe did not touch the frame... The flat pipes don't come with stage 1 so if you only have stage 1 then you will need to wait for stage 2 to get the flat pipes and mufflers.

[HVACMAN]

Some of the LS harmonic balancer bolts are 1 time use. You might look at the ARP bolt to replace the stock one. Also if you are going to pull or move the harmonic balancer you should look at the Preform Installation Tool 66519.
Don't beat on the balancer with a hammer. Also on the exhaust, you will have some more fit work todo when you bolt the flat pipe on the back of the down pipe, on the passenger side. It has to go through frame and it is tight. I made sure the
flat pipe did not touch the frame... The flat pipes don't come with stage 1 so if you only have stage 1 then you will need to wait for stage 2 to get the flat pipes and mufflers.

Thanks. I didn't have to remove the balancer. The accessory drive came with a new bolt to attach the adapter and pulley. I hope to order stage 2 in April.

[HVACMAN]

This weekend I managed to get the EVAP purge valve bracket modified and relocated. 80438 I modified the water pump and attached the steam hose thanks to Wallace 18. 80439 I mounted the inner firewall panel. I have two layers of Dynamat on the firewall and one layer on the inner firewall. Hopefully that will help keep the heat out of the cockpit. 80441 And last but not least I mounted the engine accessory drive and all the shiny stuff. CVF Racing really makes some quality pieces and it uses an eight groove serpentine system not six. 80443

[HVACMAN]

I bled the brakes last night. A task I have been dreading for sometime now, after reading some of the stories on this forum. As it turns out my concern was for nothing. Forty five minutes and it was done. A firm pedal and no leaks (so far). I credit my success to two things. I used copper gaskets on all flare fittings and a brake bleeder from Amazon. The best $25 I have ever spent.80556

[HVACMAN]

How did you guys determine where to mount the evaporator/blower assembly? (both vertically and horizontally) Pictures are welcomed.

[HVACMAN]

Well.... I managed a little time to work on the car this weekend. I installed the bulkhead fitting for the a/c and heater fittings. I did manage to fabricate the mounting brackets and spacers for the evaporator/heater assembly and get it mounted. Sunday afternoon I combed through the auto parts stores and finally found a quick connect fitting for the purge solenoid to fuel vapor canister line. I spent hours online looking for this fitting and my last resort was going to be the salvage yard.817708177181772 Progress is slow but it seems that in the Spring the "honey do list" grows daily.

[HVACMAN]

I received a replacement set of Hooker exhaust manifolds. I had ordered the ceramic titanium coated ones hoping they would hold up better. Wrong!! This is what they looked like after three weeks static on the car (I am still months away from a first start). 8183881839 For some reason the right side was much worse than the left. I am not taking any chances. I thoroughly cleaned, primed and painted the new manifolds with VHT header paint. Then I baked them according to the directions in the gas grill. I think I got that idea from Road Racer. However..... I did discover the limitations of a meat thermometer. Apparently they have a problem with temperatures above 480 degrees F. lol
I also started getting ready to bench calibrate the a/c unit.

[HVACMAN]

I am at a standstill on the a/c for the time being. After doing the bench calibration, I did a function test and all worked fine except the blend air servo. I spent several days on the phone with tech. support and to make a long story short, I had to send the cpu, harness, and servo motor back to the manufacturer. My money is on the servo motor. 82255 I spent Saturday doing chores around the house, then Sunday I decided to get the engine harness out of the box. 8225682260 Since then I have had it on and off of the car several times. I should have installed it on the engine before it was installed in the car, but hind sight is 20-20. I decided to install the LS fuse panel and the ECM inside car. 82257 The fuse panel is "weather proof" ,but I won't be running a hood or side panels, so when I originally had it in the engine compartment it just made me uncomfortable. Sooo.... off the car it came and I moved it inside.8225882259

[HVACMAN]

Last night I finalized the majority of the engine harness and started on the transmission harness.823168231582317 I hope i'm not making a mistake trying to put the LS fuse panel inside the car. I was also excited to learn that the transmission has a feature for standard or performance mode by simply providing a ground on the A/B terminal.

[HVACMAN]

I spent the weekend catching up on things around the house. You have to love an early spring. Mowing grass the second week of March is always entertaining. I did manage to get the transmission harness installed and took time to sit down and read all of the instruction on the LS3 and the 4L70E. I found out the the tranny also has a manual mode and it includes a laptop interface and software to adjust shift points and firmness. 82509 Now where am I going to hide all of this and still keep it accessible??

[HVACMAN]

I spent the weekend catching up on things around the house. You have to love an early spring. Mowing grass the second week of March is always entertaining. I did manage to get the transmission harness installed and took time to sit down and read all of the instruction on the LS3 and the 4L70E. I found out the the tranny also has a manual mode and it includes a laptop interface and software to adjust shift points and firmness. 82509 Now where am I going to hide all of this and still keep it accessible??

I almost forgot. I have the chassis fuse box that has to fit in there somewhere. That is an ECM, TCM, two fuse panels, and the a/c control board. I hope to start mocking it up this evening.

[HVACMAN]

Is there a reason why I can’t mount the chassis fuse panel to the left of the steering column? I’m running an automatic trans. No clutch.

[JimLev]

Is there a reason why I can’t mount the chassis fuse panel to the left of the steering column? I’m running an automatic trans. No clutch.

I just started on the wiring today. Not sure how you intended to mount that flimsy panel on the left side. I tried to see if it would fit but found the space was too small for the panel. I mounted it on the right side.

[HVACMAN]

I just started on the wiring today. Not sure how you intended to mount that flimsy panel on the left side. I tried to see if it would fit but found the space was too small for the panel. I mounted it on the right side.

Thanks Jim. I was going to mount a panel to the angle brace on the pedal box. It appears it might barely fit.

[JimLev]

It might fit better if you didn't use the bracket and mounted the fuse panel on stand-offs to the pedal box.

[HVACMAN]

It might fit better if you didn't use the bracket and mounted the fuse panel on stand-offs to the pedal box.

Thanks Jim. The wife has been in the hospital since Saturday, so I haven't spent any time on the build. I will look onto that. I have taken the fuse panel out of the box but nothing else. Hopefully this weekend I can spend some time in the shop.

[JimLev]

Sorry to hear about your wife, hope it's nothing too serious.

[HVACMAN]

Sorry to hear about your wife, hope it's nothing too serious.

Thanks Jim. They're not sure we are headed back to the cardiologist this afternoon.

[JimLev]

Andy, I sort of decided to follow your suggestion about the fuse panel. I didn't like the way it hung down on the flimsy aluminum bracket.
I took it off and mounted it directly to the pedal box frame. Had to fab one bracket to mount the front part to the frame.

82959

[HVACMAN]

Andy, I sort of decided to follow your suggestion about the fuse panel. I didn't like the way it hung down on the flimsy aluminum bracket.
I took it off and mounted it directly to the pedal box frame. Had to fab one bracket to mount the front part to the frame.

82959

I hope to work on that this weekend but I think I will mount it on the left side of the pedal box and place the ECM and engine fuse panel to the right of the pedal box. Between it and the a/c unit. I have decided to mount the TCM on the driveshaft tunnel under the console.

[HVACMAN]

I went to the Spindletop Car Show and Cruise last weekend. 83217832188321983220 The grandson got to sit in his first $250,000 supercar.83221 and the wife and I made the cruise in the Super Bee.83222

[HVACMAN]

This week I mounted the main harness fuse block83223 on the left side of the pedal box and the ECM got a new home on the right side of the pedal box. 83224 The engine fuse box will mount below the ECM.

[HVACMAN]

We had company all weekend so garage time was limited. However I managed to finalize the ECM mounting 83445and fabricated a hinged plate along the lower angled portion of the pedal box. This is where I mounted the engine fuse box. 83444 I hope to place the harness connectors etc, in there.83446

[HVACMAN]

If any of this looks wrong, or may cause problem down the road, please let me know.

[HVACMAN]

Now I know why I have been dragging my feet on the wiring. It can be overwhelming when you look at the big picture. 8387283873 I just have to remember "how you eat an elephant....... one bite at a time". lol I did get the alternator wired up. I stripped the alt/accy. wire out of the harness and moved it to the radio/wiper/heater section, so I can use it as an extra accessory circuit. I'll just need to add a fuse. I also stripped the fuel pump wire from the rear harness and replaced it with 10 ga. wire from the engine fuse panel. I will let the engine computer control the pump. I am running the Boyd tank with a Stealth fuel pump. Is there any reason why I can't ground the fuel pump to the chassis near the tank. I need to figure out how to incorporate the inertia switch in to the circuit. I am using the LS3 376/480 with a 4L70E trans.

[HVACMAN]

I was on vacation last week but my garage time was limited. Spring time seems to bring a lot of honey-do's with it. However I was able to sort out some of the wiring. The front harness is in place and the horns are terminated. 85000 The rear harness is in place, the fuel pump, and sending unit are terminated. I have the O2 sensors installed and the wire routing finalized. 85001 85002and this mess 85003 turned into this smaller mess. 85004. Slowly but surely.

[HVACMAN]

Well...... I haven't posted to this thread in a while. Moving, rearranging, removing, and reinstalling components and wiring. I think I have most everything where I want it now. It has been very frustrating. I managed to get the interior bulkhead panels installed along with the accelerator pedal installed. The heater hoses (inside and out) are mocked up. I also plumbed the fuel vapor canister to the purge valve and ran the wiring to the interior of the car. I am hoping I don't get any radiant heat from the engine compartment through the firewall. The firewall has two coats of Lizard Skin and two layers of Dynamat. Then the interior Bulkhead panel has a coat of Lizard Skin and a layer of Dynamat with an air gap between it and the firewall. I have the wiring for the a/c and heat mocked up and now I am hoping everything fits behind the dash when I receive stage two. 87355873558735687357873588735987360

[1932]

That is the tough thing about not having all the parts and body to put on first.

[HVACMAN]

That's true. So far everything is well forward of the master cylinders. I have my fingers crossed.

[HVACMAN]

I did yard work on Friday and I had chores to do all day Saturday but yesterday I got the accelerator pedal modified and mounted. 87484

[HVACMAN]

Stage 2 is finally on order with an 8/25 production date.

[JimLev]

I did yard work on Friday and I had chores to do all day Saturday but yesterday I got the accelerator pedal modified and mounted. 87484

The spare clutch pedal for the gas pedal. I haven't mounted mine yet, hope to have that done this week.

[Cali-21]

I have had a problem with the FF down pipe hitting the frame on the right side. 80065I worked all day Saturday loosening motor mounts shifting things around etc. I finally got the laser out to check the drive train alignment. 80067 At the end of the day this was the best I could do. I hope it is enough.80066 Someone suggested prying between the frame and down pipe, but I was afraid of shattering a brand new set of Hooker manifolds. Cast iron and stainless are both pretty brittle. On a better note the accessory drive and A/C came in on Friday. 80068 That will give me plenty to work on in the upcoming weeks and I can start the wiring.

All,

I’ve decided to eventually start a 33 build but I keep reading here in this thread and others, that “this ____ (fill-in the blank) “came in today” or “the _____ wasn’t shipped and is coming”. I’m concerned about this as I will be a mostly after work/weekend builder that can’t be around during the day to receive all of the missing or late in arriving kit pieces. Should I be concerned and need to figure out an alternate shipping address (work) for these late arriving parts?

Any feedback you all could provide would be appreciated.

Mario

[JOP33]

Mario - I received my kit back in April of 2017 and initially I had a few bolts missing, a damaged radiator hose and my wiring harness was on back order. After doing a thorough inventory (this is key), I called FFR and in two days the missing parts from inventory arrived and within two weeks of my kit delivery my wiring harness was at my door. Since then I have only had to call them (about parts) once for the 12 point bolts for the driveshaft and they had those delivered the next day (on Saturday). As far as my experience goes, I have been extremely happy with FFR's support. I do understand your concerns though. My brakes were drop shift directly from Wilwood and just left in (2) boxes in front of my garage with the Wilwood logo printed all over the boxes. I am sure there are a hundred or more negative experiences out there, just wanted you to know that sometimes they get it right too. If I might add one tip, plan your build out. There will be items that you want to upgrade from a third party supplier or maybe it is something that didn't come with the kit. Try to stay about three weeks ahead of what you are currently working on so you can order what you need and have it ready when you need...but most of all enjoy the ride! :cool:

J

[Cali-21]

J,

Thanks for the advice on the planning out the build, I’m big into that being in construction. I want to approach the build like a construction project without the schedule. Did you attend the build school and if so how was it and is it worth it, I haven’t built anything with a motor since high school and those were VW bugs that I helped build? I’m hoping my being an electrician, general handy guy around the and the support of the FFR community that I’ve got what it takes to finish a build.

Thanks for sharing your experiances.

Mario

[Tampa33Build]

Mario,

I have to say FFR has been great in answering any questions and sending missing items. I went through the inventory twice and still came up short a couple items so far in the build. Each time I contacted them they shipped the item out the same/next day. I also went to the build school, the main reason was to reinforce I wanted to tackle the project. Some of the items at the school were dated, FFR was in the process of updating them. For me it was worth it. Additionally, the people on this forum are great, I contacted several in my area and visited their builds.

Neil

[JOP33]

J,

Thanks for the advice on the planning out the build, I’m big into that being in construction. I want to approach the build like a construction project without the schedule. Did you attend the build school and if so how was it and is it worth it, I haven’t built anything with a motor since high school and those were VW bugs that I helped build? I’m hoping my being an electrician, general handy guy around the and the support of the FFR community that I’ve got what it takes to finish a build.

Thanks for sharing your experiances.

Mario

Mario - I did attend the build school and was very pleased with the experience I received. I think the only thing differently I would have done would have been to receive my kit and have it for about a month or two before going. I went about a month prior to receiving it and feel like I would have had some additional questions to ask if I had waited. Remember you are trying to build an entire car in 3 days, so there are some instances where sub assemblies have been left together from a previous class (i.e. you are probably not going to build the entire brake assembly, but you will install the brake assembly). They do a really good job of advising you when and where to stray from the manual and when it is all said and done you meet a great group of people and create a nice network for support.

[Cali-21]

J,

Thanks again, great advice and when I pull the trigger I hope to hear from you on future posts.

Andy, things are looking great to me, looking forward to following your build and will take any advice I can get when I start mine.

Mario

[60's Kid]

Hi Andy...I see you have LS3 and auto trans...I am looking for the thread that talks about the cold air intake and for that filter. I have seen it but of course can't find it now. Can you or some one else help me find it again?

[HVACMAN]

Hi Andy...I see you have LS3 and auto trans...I am looking for the thread that talks about the cold air intake and for that filter. I have seen it but of course can't find it now. Can you or some one else help me find it again?

I haven't gotten that far but if you will look at JimLev's build he did an excellent job on his and I believe even lists part numbers.

[HVACMAN]

It felt good to get back in the shop Monday after a long absence. Life tends to get in the way sometimes. I managed to get the oil pan on the LS3 replaced. Not only is it above the frame rails now but I have tons of room to re-clock the PS motor and get it above the frame also. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but it made me nervous with them hanging down unprotected. These cars are low enough without things unnecessarily sticking out the bottom. 9268492685926869268792688 It was a lot cooler in the shop too. 92689

[HVACMAN]

Saturday I clocked the PS motor and got it nestled up inside the frame rails. Then I assembled all of the steering system. The only modification I had to make was to cut 1/4 inch from one of the DD shafts.

[HVACMAN]

Stage 2 is here!!!! I plan to get the inventory done tonight and boxes stored. I'm looking forward to getting the trans. tunnel set in the car so that I can do some final routing of the wiring, and locate the final resting place for the shifter. As a side note, I felt sorry for Warren, the Stewart driver. IH10 to Houston was shut down yesterday due to two fatal accidents three or four miles apart. He would have to take a two lane. His next stop was Jersey Village, then Pflugerville.

[JimLev]

Ah, Christmas in Sept.
Have fun unpacking and doing inventory.
I don't remember, are you using the same Lokar shifter that I bought?

[HVACMAN]

Ah, Christmas in Sept.
Have fun unpacking and doing inventory.
I don't remember, are you using the same Lokar shifter that I bought?

Yes. It's been sitting on the shelf, quietly waiting, for about six or seven months.

[HVACMAN]

It's been a while since I updated this thread. My wife, who already had health issues, suffered massive blood clots in September. After 28 days in the hospital and a miracle procedure, we are home, but recovery will be long. I have been able to spend a few hours in the shop this week. I installed the rear exhaust only to find the driver side intermediate exhaust pipe was contacting the bottom frame rail where it passes through the frame.98024 I had to cut a notch at the flange pull it up and have it tig welded. After getting all the parts mocked up I realized the drivers side was approximately 3 /4 inch shorter than the passenger side. This caused the tailpipe to contact the upper control arm mount. I had a local guy cut two 3/8 stainless spacers to go between the shorty pipe and the intermediate exhaust pipe.98110981129811398114

[JimLev]

Hope your wife is feeling better.
I noticed your muffler pic has the seam on the top. IIRC I thought I read somewhere the seam goes on the bottom, don't know if it really matters or not. Just thought I'd mention it.
I just finished insulating my mufflers, even with insulation on the floors the floors were too hot to touch for more than 5 sec.

[HVACMAN]

Hope your wife is feeling better.
I noticed your muffler pic has the seam on the top. IIRC I thought I read somewhere the seam goes on the bottom, don't know if it really matters or not. Just thought I'd mention it.
I just finished insulating my mufflers, even with insulation on the floors the floors were too hot to touch for more than 5 sec.

Thanks for noticing Jim. I don't know why it would make a difference on a muffler but I will do some research. I just read your post on the muffler insulation. I'll be watching for your report on the results.

[HVACMAN]

I pulled the trigger on a set of wheels this weekend. This is something that has been on my mind for some time. Billet Specialties ran a 15% off special for the holiday and it was to tempting to resist. I went with the Legend Series "Mag".

[myjones]

Thanks for noticing Jim. I don't know why it would make a difference on a muffler but I will do some research. I just read your post on the muffler insulation. I'll be watching for your report on the results.

Andy
Mufflers are always designed to channel and control condensation so IF the manufacturer says this side up it will last longer
that way.
Dale

[HVACMAN]

Andy
Mufflers are always designed to channel and control condensation so IF the manufacturer says this side up it will last longer
that way.
Dale

Makes sense Dale. I remember the older mufflers had a condensate drain hole on the back end. I will swap them.

[JimLev]

Nice wheels Andy, what size did you get?

[HVACMAN]

Nice wheels Andy, what size did you get?

Thanks Jim.

18x7 Front and 20x15 Rear I had been looking for quite awhile. It was between them and the American Racing Torque Thrust. The sale was too good to pass up.

I hope I have my backspacing close. 4.5 front and 4.0 rear. I will not be running fenders.

[TDSapp]

Thanks Jim.

18x7 Front and 20x15 Rear I had been looking for quite awhile. It was between them and the American Racing Torque Thrust. The sale was too good to pass up.

I hope I have my backspacing close. 4.5 front and 4.0 rear. I will not be running fenders.


Andy,

If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for the wheels? I was just on their site this morning and they don't have any prices listed with their wheels.

[HVACMAN]

Andy,

If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for the wheels? I was just on their site this morning and they don't have any prices listed with their wheels.

With the discount it was about $2600 with lug nuts. They normally run another sale at Christmas if I remember correctly.

[HVACMAN]

I have been working as I had time on the grill, which had some seriously deep flaws in it. They weren't very large in diameter but deep.98334 One of them became two as I removed material and the new one was even deeper than the first.983359833698337 Now that I have smoothed things out I am working to restore the natural shape to the grill.

[HVACMAN]

I swapped the mufflers side to side last night, although I'm not convinced I needed to. There is no condensate drain hole on these mufflers and I couldn't find anything in the manual. Now I need to wrap the pipes. Is all header wrap created equal or is there some better than others? What do you recommend?

[JimLev]

I bought 2 different brands of header wrap, they both look almost exactly the same.
If your going to wrap the pipes from the front to the rear you'll need at least two 50' rolls.
https://www.amazon.com/ARTR-Titanium-Exhaust-Stainless-Locking/dp/B012C5FOLK/ref=ya_st_pd_dx_wl_4/143-8334433-4579740?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B012C5FOLK&pd_rd_r=9069e434-9516-4ab2-9eda-f92ff9d1b47e&pd_rd_w=6NJFK&pd_rd_wg=FUPYa&psc=1&refRID=0XEWC92VKNA9G171YFY7

The straps don't come with the tool to tighten them up, it's looks like a 1/4" ratchet extension with a slot in the end used to pull/twist the strap tight. They aren't expensive, well worth getting one.
I'll dig up the link to the tool and post it today.

[HVACMAN]

I bought 2 different brands of header wrap, they both look almost exactly the same.
If your going to wrap the pipes from the front to the rear you'll need at least two 50' rolls.
https://www.amazon.com/ARTR-Titanium-Exhaust-Stainless-Locking/dp/B012C5FOLK/ref=ya_st_pd_dx_wl_4/143-8334433-4579740?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B012C5FOLK&pd_rd_r=9069e434-9516-4ab2-9eda-f92ff9d1b47e&pd_rd_w=6NJFK&pd_rd_wg=FUPYa&psc=1&refRID=0XEWC92VKNA9G171YFY7

The straps don't come with the tool to tighten them up, it's looks like a 1/4" ratchet extension with a slot in the end used to pull/twist the strap tight. They aren't expensive, well worth getting one.
I'll dig up the link to the tool and post it today.

Thanks Jim. I will get some on order. I am going to try wrapping the front exhaust pipes first. I am going the heat shield route first on the mufflers. I really hate covering up all the shiny stainless unless I have to. I have a tool that is used for tightening the band on CV joints that I am pretty sure will work on the straps. It has the slot and uses a 3/8 ratchet and socket to tighten.

[JimLev]

Your tool should work, you may want buy more stainless ties.
Here's the other brand I bought after I figured that 50' wouldn't be enough.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDAUT-Titanium-Motorcycle-Fiberglass-Stainless/dp/B011B99B0I/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B011B99B0I&pd_rd_r=bb25e97e-f4b2-11e8-9db5-6f7d09a54174&pd_rd_w=Yl4Sg&pd_rd_wg=EyVr2&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=ADDEST0DDGAAXQ8BFMPV&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=ADDEST0DDGAAXQ8BFMPV
You should think about doing the mufflers, the floors will get HOT!

[HVACMAN]

Your tool should work, you may want buy more stainless ties.
Here's the other brand I bought after I figured that 50' wouldn't be enough.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDAUT-Titanium-Motorcycle-Fiberglass-Stainless/dp/B011B99B0I/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B011B99B0I&pd_rd_r=bb25e97e-f4b2-11e8-9db5-6f7d09a54174&pd_rd_w=Yl4Sg&pd_rd_wg=EyVr2&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=ADDEST0DDGAAXQ8BFMPV&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=ADDEST0DDGAAXQ8BFMPV
You should think about doing the mufflers, the floors will get HOT!

Did you prefer one wrap over the other or are they equal?

[TDSapp]

I swapped the mufflers side to side last night, although I'm not convinced I needed to. There is no condensate drain hole on these mufflers and I couldn't find anything in the manual. Now I need to wrap the pipes. Is all header wrap created equal or is there some better than others? What do you recommend?


I don't think its a side to side issue. The exit pipe is on one side of the muffler and not the center. When I put the seam up on the muffler it put the exit next to the body of the car and not towards the middle. The exit pipes were sticking way outside the edge of the car. By flipping the muffler it moved the pipe where the exhaust tip was just outside the body and not sticking out four or five inches.


http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/20180811_144150.jpg

[HVACMAN]

I don't think its a side to side issue. The exit pipe is on one side of the muffler and not the center. When I put the seam up on the muffler it put the exit next to the body of the car and not towards the middle. The exit pipes were sticking way outside the edge of the car. By flipping the muffler it moved the pipe where the exhaust tip was just outside the body and not sticking out four or five inches.


http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/20180811_144150.jpg

I know what your saying Tim. Jim's point was the seams should be down, which means if you swap them side for side and turn them over the seam is down and the outlet is still on the outboard side. A lot of the OEM mufflers had a condensate drain in the outlet end of the muffler, which had to be oriented to the bottom, but the FFR mufflers do not. I'm not sure this makes sense but it sounded good in my head. lol

[TDSapp]

I know what your saying Tim. Jim's point was the seams should be down, which means if you swap them side for side and turn them over the seam is down and the outlet is still on the outboard side. A lot of the OEM mufflers had a condensate drain in the outlet end of the muffler, which had to be oriented to the bottom, but the FFR mufflers do not. I'm not sure this makes sense but it sounded good in my head. lol

Correct, if you swap sides and flip them the outlets are still outboard and stick out much further. I would rather have the end of the pipe closer to flush than sticking out too far.

[HVACMAN]

Correct, if you swap sides and flip them the outlets are still outboard and stick out much further. I would rather have the end of the pipe closer to flush than sticking out too far.

I see now. You are using side exit exhaust, correct?

[JimLev]

Did you prefer one wrap over the other or are they equal?

No, they both were almost a carbon copy of each other.

[TDSapp]

I see now. You are using side exit exhaust, correct?

Yes I am... Yeah rear exit exhaust is a different beast and I have no idea on where it need to be.

[myjones]

I swapped the mufflers side to side last night, although I'm not convinced I needed to. There is no condensate drain hole on these mufflers and I couldn't find anything in the manual.

Very few mufflers have a condensate hole anymore but the interior is designed to channel the water that condenses in there to move on through and out
the back with as little pooling and damage as possible. That condensate is very acidic and best not left inside the muffler, you didn't waste your time.

I have family that's been in the exhaust biz for over 4 decades so I have seen a few muffs both new and blown out and I would follow the manufacturers
instructions if it will fit in the 33 that way.

DB

[HVACMAN]

Shop time has been few and far between lately, but I was on vacation the last half of December, and managed to make a few excursions to the garage. I finished finalizing the exhaust (what a pain) and got it wrapped. The shift cable is installed after getting the correct bracket from Lokar (Thanks Jim). I have the rear bulkhead installed and the floors. That allowed me to install the driveshaft, torque it, and install the driveshaft cover. Now on to the transmission tunnel, which will allow me to finalize the wiring. I hope. I had to go back to work yesterday, which really sucked, but at least there is only eleven months left until I retire. I don't think they will be able to talk me into staying again. Building hot rods is too much fun.
When I got home yesterday afternoon I discovered that the Fedex guy had been there. MY WHEELS ARE HERE!!!!100060100061100062100063100064100065100066 100067100068100069

[TDSapp]

When I got home yesterday afternoon I discovered that the Fedex guy had been there. MY WHEELS ARE HERE!!!!100067100068100069


Sweet looking wheels!! It gives me hope that mine will be here soon. I ordered mine three days after you did. We also ordered the same size wheels, but I did a different back space.

Your car is looking good.

[HVACMAN]

Sweet looking wheels!! It gives me hope that mine will be here soon. I ordered mine three days after you did. We also ordered the same size wheels, but I did a different back space.

Your car is looking good.

They showed up with no warning. No email or anything stating they had been shipped. What did you do for back space Tim?

[TDSapp]

They showed up with no warning. No email or anything stating they had been shipped. What did you do for back space Tim?

I hope I get a notice on when they are going to come in. I would hate for them to set at the front door all day.

On the fronts I went with a 3.5" back space and on the rears I went with 6.5". I have the rear end out of a 2002 Mustang GT and it is wider than the earlier rear ends. When I measured I was actually thinking about a 7" BS but figured I could always go 6.5" and use a spacer if I had to.

[HVACMAN]

I hope I get a notice on when they are going to come in. I would hate for them to set at the front door all day.

On the fronts I went with a 3.5" back space and on the rears I went with 6.5". I have the rear end out of a 2002 Mustang GT and it is wider than the earlier rear ends. When I measured I was actually thinking about a 7" BS but figured I could always go 6.5" and use a spacer if I had to.

Just FYI. They require a signature. My wife was slow getting to the door and almost missed the driver. You can always have them hold them at the terminal for pick up, if no one is going to be home.

[TDSapp]

Just FYI. They require a signature. My wife was slow getting to the door and almost missed the driver. You can always have them hold them at the terminal for pick up, if no one is going to be home.



Well I sent an email to Wheels4Less.com and asked them if they could get an update. They said they are shipping them out on Monday. I sure hope they send me a tracking number so I can take the day off for delivery. I would have them hold at the terminal but I drive a 2012 Challenger and there is no way I would be able to get all 4 wheels in my car. Just about could not get the tires in my wifes Durango because they were so big.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/20180905_194002.jpg

This is with all the back seats laid down flat. These are MT tires with the rear being 20X18 and the fronts are 18X8.


What tires are you going with?

[HVACMAN]

Well I sent an email to Wheels4Less.com and asked them if they could get an update. They said they are shipping them out on Monday. I sure hope they send me a tracking number so I can take the day off for delivery. I would have them hold at the terminal but I drive a 2012 Challenger and there is no way I would be able to get all 4 wheels in my car. Just about could not get the tires in my wifes Durango because they were so big.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/20180905_194002.jpg

This is with all the back seats laid down flat. These are MT tires with the rear being 20X18 and the fronts are 18X8.


What tires are you going with?

It looks like the same tire. Those look like Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR's? What wheels did you order? I ordered mine direct from Billet Specialties.

[TDSapp]

It looks like the same tire. Those look like Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR's? What wheels did you order? I ordered mine direct from Billet Specialties.

I just saw in your signature that we do have the same tires, Sportsman S/Rs.


The wheels I ordered are custom built American Racing Burnouts. No sale on them and I paid around $2,500.00 for all four of them. Then paid a bit more to get the black lug nuts and locking lugs. I ordered mine via WheelsForLess.Com.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Custom-Burnout-Wheels.jpg

[HVACMAN]

I just saw in your signature that we do have the same tires, Sportsman S/Rs.


The wheels I ordered are custom built American Racing Burnouts. No sale on them and I paid around $2,500.00 for all four of them. Then paid a bit more to get the black lug nuts and locking lugs. I ordered mine via WheelsForLess.Com.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Custom-Burnout-Wheels.jpg

Nice wheels Tim! I was looking seriously at American Racing when these went on sale.

[TDSapp]

They showed up with no warning. No email or anything stating they had been shipped. What did you do for back space Tim?

I got a tracking number the other day. My wheels arrive tomorrow (1/10). ;);););):cool::cool::cool:

[HVACMAN]

i got a tracking number the other day. My wheels arrive tomorrow (1/10). ;);););):cool::cool::cool:

excellent!!!

[HVACMAN]

I haven't had a chance to update in a bit (wife is back in the hospital) but last weekend I manged to make a little progress. The trans tunnel is in and all the appropriate wires are pulled through it. I discovered all the places where I have Lizard Skin and Dynomat that there ought to be none. That stuff is not fun to scrape off when it has been on for months. The left side fit great with the exception of the selector shaft on the transmission. I had to alter the tunnel to make room. Now I have to glass in a bubble to accommodate it. On the passenger side it appeared to be too wide. The floor cut out for the emergency brake was actually inside the tunnel. After wrestling with this for some time, I finally crawled under the car and discovered there was a cleco in the floor that I couldn't see. that was holding it out. Boy did I feel like an idiot! Well the car is on hold for a bit, but I will be back in the shop eventually.100361100362100363100364100365100366100 367

[HVACMAN]

I was able to get back into the shop this past weekend for a bit. I managed to get the rear bulkhead and floors riveted in place. I don't remember who suggested a pneumatic rivet gun but I should have listened. I decided to do the driveshaft tunnel and transmission tunnel with button head screws and rivet nuts. That will be next. I have the trans tunnel marked where it needs to be trimmed, so that I can pull it out one time and make all the necessary modifications at once. I also dropped the wheels off to be coated and the tires will get mounted on Monday.

[TDSapp]

the tires will get mounted on Monday.

Where you get to where you are having the tires mounted have them check the fit of the mounting machine and the balancer before they start any work. I went to Discount Tire and one of their tire machines was too small to handle the wheel and tire. Fortunately they had a newer machine that was able to handle the wheel tire combo. They did check the wheel balancer machine before they did any work. The wheel cleared the top by only about one inch.

Get ready for some comments and pictures too... It looks like most of the guys there had never done a wheel\tire this big. At one point I had 8 guys working on my wheels and tires and there was only ten working in the bay to start with. (There were people in the waiting room that their vehicle was being ignored even though they had been started.)


http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/20190112_135051.jpg

[HVACMAN]

I picked my wheels up from the detail shop Monday and dropped them at Superior Tire in Nederland. He sells the drag radials and slicks to most of the local racers. They were less, mounted and balanced than I could buy just the tires at Summit or Jegs. He called in about two hours and said they were ready. By the way Tim you were correct the first time on the direction of your tires. This weekend I worked on the transmission tunnel. I glassed the side for clearance of the shift lever and found two more places where the tunnel contacts the transmission. One was the servo on the right side and the other was an ear on the left side. I got those opened up and glassed but haven't had time to try the tunnel back in the car. I don't know how someone could put a 4L80E in one of these cars without major modifications. I don't have pictures since my I-phone decided to do a factory reset during the night and my last backup was 1/17. We spent most of the day yesterday at Herman Memorial Hospital in Houston for the wife's follow up appointments, with a stop at Pappasito's for supper. Their fajitas are amazing.

[Dodgeman]

Pappasito's fajitas are good, better place is Don Chile in Houston, exit I-10 at McCarty Road right and the place is on your left just past the bank. fajitas are the best in Houston. don't drink the water though,Just kidding, all the locals go there.

I was there for breakfast this morning.

Bob

[HVACMAN]

Pappasito's fajitas are good, better place is Don Chile in Houston, exit I-10 at McCarty Road right and the place is on your left just past the bank. fajitas are the best in Houston. don't drink the water though,Just kidding, all the locals go there.

I was there for breakfast this morning.

Bob

Thanks for the tip Bob. We have another doctors appointment in two weeks. We will check it out.

[HVACMAN]

I have managed to work on the car a little at a time over the last several weeks. I finished the modifications and get it installed in the car hopefully for the last time. I have started installing the shifter and putting the foot box inner panels back in. I hope to get the steering back in this weekend and start the final wire routing through the top of the tunnel.102198102199102200

[HVACMAN]

It sure feels good to be putting pieces back on the car. I have the tunnel finalized and the shifter installed. The engine harness and fuse box are routed through the side of the tunnel and mounted to the inner firewall, along with the ECM harness. Next will be the remainder of the tunnel penetrations, wire routing, mount the trans. controller, it's wiring, and laptop interface. 102421102422102423

[HVACMAN]

I am almost through with the trans tunnel. It will be nice to take a brake from the fiberglass dust. The shop now has a light coat of white on everything. lol
I wound up making five penetrations through the tunnel. 1. ECM harness 2. Engine fuse panel harness 3. battery cable & transmission harness 4. Front harness and alternator 5. Bulkhead, fly by wire accelerator, and OBD II/MIL harnesses. This weekend will be directed toward installing the rivet nuts and shop clean up. 102965102966102967

[HVACMAN]

The tunnel cover is fitted, bolted down, and sealed. I'm glad to be finished with the fiberglass for a little while. Now I'll concentrate on finishing the routing of the wiring harnesses.103283103284

[HVACMAN]

Well......... maybe I'll work on the grill/radiator/fan assembly for a while. I didn't get anything done this weekend on the build. The yard demanded attention. With the warm temperatures and all the rain, the clover in the yard was almost a foot high, and the ground was dry enough so as not to make ruts with the lawn mower. However, last night I mocked up the grill, condenser, radiator, fan, and shroud assembly. Final assembly tonight or tomorrow. 103661103662

[HVACMAN]

I got the grill, radiator, condenser, fan assembly finalized and mounted only to find the fan housing hits the upper shock mounting bolt and the fan shroud hits the lower control arm mounts. I also found that the upper shock bolt I was supposed to reverse months ago, never got done. I have to take them out and I'll replace them with shorter bolts and thin ny-lock nuts. Having the grill on sure makes a difference in the way the car looks.103982103983103984103985

[HVACMAN]

I mounted the turn signal lever with the built in dimmer switch last night. Running the wires through the column was not the most fun I've ever had but it's done now. 105004 Over the weekend I finalized the air intake for the LS. It looks like it will need a support bracket to keep it in place.105005 I also assembled the drivers seat, slide, and mount and drilled the holes to mount in the floor.105006

[rychi1]

Have you wired up the dimmer switch yet? I also purchased that but haven't installed it yet.

[HVACMAN]

Have you wired up the dimmer switch yet? I also purchased that but haven't installed it yet. I mounted the relay pack last night but have not wired it. The ADD kicked in and I got side tracked running the crankcase fresh air from the intake tube to the passenger side valve cover. However, the wiring looks to be pretty straight forward.

[HVACMAN]

Drivers seat assembly is in and mounted to the floor. The passenger seat is assembled and I will get it mounted this weekend. I also got the coolant reservoir mounted, the upper radiator hose installed, and the bracket to support the air intake. I fabricated some small panels to help seal around the harness attachment points.105542105543105544105545

[HVACMAN]

Well the passenger seat is mounted and all of the Dyna Mat in the cockpit is done. I have started routing the transmission lines. It is a job keeping them away from the heat and not be in the way of anything else. I will need to mount the drivers harness in preparation for first start and go cart. Oh, and the steering wheel would be nice too. There is still a lot of wire terminating to do first. Somehow I keep putting that off.106260106261106262

[JOP33]

Nice job on the Dynamat! I think that will pay off.

[HVACMAN]

Nice job on the Dynamat! I think that will pay off.

Thanks Jop. It has Lizard Skin sound/heat/top coat on the bottom also.

[HVACMAN]

It is spring time and I spent most of Saturday scrubbing the pollen off of everything on the back deck, after the rain stopped. I did manage to get the hole for the F5 fuel fill covered and the new one for the Boyd tank cut, with the grommet and fill hose installed. I also located and temporarily installed the battery box.
106862106863

[FF33rod]

Coming along! Couple of questions for you - who's fuel filler cap are you using? When I deleted the FFR tank it also deleted that so I need to get one. Also, battery "box" source? Looks great!
Thanks & Cheers, Steve

[HVACMAN]

Coming along! Couple of questions for you - who's fuel filler cap are you using? When I deleted the FFR tank it also deleted that so I need to get one. Also, battery "box" source? Looks great!
Thanks & Cheers, Steve Hey Steve. I ordered the filler assembly from Factory 5 and the battery box is a Billet Specialties item # 135-248915 from Jegs.

[HVACMAN]

I drew this up yesterday and put it together last night to control the cooling fan. It allows the ECM and the a/c t-stat to control the fan independently without back feeding and the a/c stat is priority. 106911

[progmgr1]

Great idea! I think I would be wise to do this too.
What relays did you use and where did you mount them? Under the dash is getting pretty crowded...
Keith

[HVACMAN]

Great idea! I think I would be wise to do this too.
What relays did you use and where did you mount them? Under the dash is getting pretty crowded...
Keith

Thanks Keith. I ordered the relays from amazon, about $10 for both. I hear ya about the over crowding. I spent about an hour and a half staring, trying, and more staring. Trying to find the best place for them to live. I finally gave up and went inside. Mine is especially bad since I moved the LS fuse box and the power steering controller inside. The dimmer relays are also attached to the pedal box. Fortunately these relays are relatively small.
106951

[HVACMAN]

Not much done this weekend. We had a house full of grandkids all day Saturday and I spent the day yesterday with the wife for Mothers Day. However I did sneak into the garage for a bit Saturday afternoon and started on my temporary gauge panel. I can't say enough about the Can-Bus gauges for the LS. It reduced the RF dash harness to 8 or 9 wires, plus the OBD2 connector. Super simple. 107126107127107128

[HVACMAN]

Cooling fan relays are installed and wired, also the ignition switch and headlight switch. Tonight I will work on the relay pack for the column mounted dimmer switch.107288107289

[HVACMAN]

I have been on vacation for the last ten days, catching up on yard work, installed a new alarm system,and other items on "the list". I did get a little time to spend on the car so I concentrated on wiring. I went from this 108283 to this 108284 It's not perfect but it's getting there. I did get the dimmer relay pack wired and installed and wired the timer/relay for the purge valve. 108285108286 I also wired the Lokar Sport Mode shifter neutral safety switch, manual shift switch and the up and down shift switches.108287108288 I decided to use weather pack connectors on everything. I started to work on the head lights and discovered that the lights I received didn't match the manual or anything I could find online. 108289 108290 A call this morning to FFR and I learned I had Gen.2 headlights so they emailed a new manual. It still doesn't match exactly but close enough. These have the daytime driving lights. I shortened the rear harness so that the left and right split matched the rear cross tube.

[HVACMAN]

We set the body on for the first time last night. I'll take some measurements this weekend before it comes back off. It looks like a car now instead of an enlarged go cart. 108462108463108464

[TDSapp]

We set the body on for the first time last night. I'll take some measurements this weekend before it comes back off. It looks like a car now instead of an enlarged go cart. 108462108463108464


WOW! What a small garage! Are you sure it is going to make it out of the door with the 18" tires in the back?


Looks good though.... Looks real good.



Tim

[HVACMAN]

Has anyone installed this type headlight from F5?108465108466
The lock ring doesn't seem to want to firmly grip the bulb assembly. I hate to really crank down on it. Also does any one have pictures of the buckets bolted to the grill mount? The bolt seems to be too long and the washer and bezel want to ride on the edge of the grill. I am not using side panels.109498109499

[HVACMAN]

WOW! What a small garage! Are you sure it is going to make it out of the door with the 18" tires in the back?


Looks good though.... Looks real good.



Tim lol! I had it out yesterday. It actually has more room than it looks like but more is always better.

[HVACMAN]

Well....It's been awhile since I updated things here. Life gets interesting at times, but I am trying to get things ready for first start. The wiring is to a point that I feel safe with it. However before I installed the battery I put my ohm meter on it only to find there was a short to ground. Fortunately I found it the first place I looked. The heat shield on the starter was touching the battery cable. I got the rear exit exhaust finalized where I want it, took some measurements for the console, and pulled the body back off. Next I got the engine primed and the transmission fluid installed. Then on to the cooling system. I tried to pull a vacuum on it but it wouldn't go below 5 in.hg. I checked a few things and found that I hadn't tightened any of the heater hose connections. Duh. I pulled another vacuum and it pulled down like it's supposed to but leaked down very slowly when I turned the pump off. Sooo... I filled it with water and pressured up the system only to find a small leak at the thermostat housing. I drained the water pulled the lower hose and the thermostat housing, put a thin coat of RTV on the o-ring and put everything back together. Pressured it up to 15 lbs and let it sit for 30 minutes. No leaks and the pressure held. I drained it, pulled another vacuum and filled it with coolant. Then I went to fill the reservoir only to discover a leak at the bottom of it. Thank goodness it was just a bad clamp.
Slowly but surely I'm crossing things off of my list. I almost forgot when I started to lube all of the chassis components, I discovered some of the straight zerk fittings were no longer accessible but needed to be replaced with 90 degree fittings. I am hoping for first start this Saturday or next.111175

[AJT '33]

Well....It's been awhile since I updated things here. Life gets interesting at times, but I am trying to get things ready for first start. The wiring is to a point that I feel safe with it. However before I installed the battery I put my ohm meter on it only to find there was a short to ground. Fortunately I found it the first place I looked. The heat shield on the starter was touching the battery cable. I got the rear exit exhaust finalized where I want it, took some measurements for the console, and pulled the body back off. Next I got the engine primed and the transmission fluid installed. Then on to the cooling system. I tried to pull a vacuum on it but it wouldn't go below 5 in.hg. I checked a few things and found that I hadn't tightened any of the heater hose connections. Duh. I pulled another vacuum and it pulled down like it's supposed to but leaked down very slowly when I turned the pump off. Sooo... I filled it with water and pressured up the system only to find a small leak at the thermostat housing. I drained the water pulled the lower hose and the thermostat housing, put a thin coat of RTV on the o-ring and put everything back together. Pressured it up to 15 lbs and let it sit for 30 minutes. No leaks and the pressure held. I drained it, pulled another vacuum and filled it with coolant. Then I went to fill the reservoir only to discover a leak at the bottom of it. Thank goodness it was just a bad clamp.
Slowly but surely I'm crossing things off of my list. I almost forgot when I started to lube all of the chassis components, I discovered some of the straight zerk fittings were no longer accessible but needed to be replaced with 90 degree fittings. I am hoping for first start this Saturday or next.111175

Highly suggest that you tape off any loose unconnected wire ends so they dont touch together or the chassis before you get too far! GOOD LUCK!!!!

[HVACMAN]

Highly suggest that you tape off any loose unconnected wire ends so they dont touch together or the chassis before you get too far! GOOD LUCK!!!!

Thanks AJT. I actually capped any loose wire with these. 111199
I forgot to post yesterday that I also set the ride height, centered the rear wheels in the wheel openings, and set the pinion angle. Please let me know if these sound ok. Ride height 6 inch Front; 6 7/8 inch Rear. Engine/transmission: 1.9 degrees down; Pinion: 1.9 degrees up; Drive shaft 2.4 degrees down. My lower control arms are higher slightly in the front (which I'm not excited about) but I can move it up in the rear mount if I need to.

[HVACMAN]

Was anyone else nervous when they first put voltage to the car? I checked everything I could then powered it up. Nothing caught fire. lol Then I turned the key on. the fuel pump runs and all gauges work. Only had one fuel leak. Some idiot left the fitting loose at the fuel rail. I tried the lights headlights. When the key is on the daytime driving lights work, the turn signals work, and the flashers work. When I turn the lights on (park or headlights) only the brights work. I think I know why but haven't had time to dig into it. The instructions for the led headlights are not very clear. I'm in the process of installing the bump steer kit and hope to do the first start this weekend.111625111626 I also found this and added it to my shop. My Dad had 3 Humble service stations when I was a kid. I can't tell you how many gallons of gas I pumped at fifteen to twenty five cents a gallon. 111627

[FF33rod]

Congrats. I remember the feeling when I turned the key, feels darn good! Whoever is working on your fuel system must have done mine as well, except I had 2 or 3 so sounds like he's finally learning :) My electrical system is only as far as needed to light up the engine. Have no idea if the signals and other stuff works yet or not.

[HVACMAN]

Congrats. I remember the feeling when I turned the key, feels darn good! Whoever is working on your fuel system must have done mine as well, except I had 2 or 3 so sounds like he's finally learning :) My electrical system is only as far as needed to light up the engine. Have no idea if the signals and other stuff works yet or not.

Do you have the new led headlights?

[FF33rod]

yes I do

[HVACMAN]

I worked on installing Tim's bump steer kit last night. The quality of this kit is amazing and it looks soo... much better than the original stuff. It's adjustable too without putting channel locks or vice grips on the inner tie rods. 111669111670

[HVACMAN]

I modified and installed one of the coil covers today. It took about111796 3 hours of cut, file, fit, file, repeat. But that's the way we roll on these builds. I decided to take a break before doing the second one. So.... I primed the oil pump, checked all the fluids, double checked everything, and turned the key, and if I could figure out how to upload the video it might have actually happened. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[JimLev]

Why did you have to modify the coilovers?
Upload your video to YouTube, then paste the URL using the film icon.

[HVACMAN]

Why did you have to modify the coilovers?
Upload your video to YouTube, then paste the URL using the film icon.

I modified the coil covers from Speedway, to fit around where I mounted the purge valve and the crankcase vent hose. The shocks/springs are fine. Thanks for the info on YouTube I'll give it a try.

[HVACMAN]

First start videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3v7cInKV05c Sorry for the quality. I was by myself trying to do many things at once but I'm learning.

[HVACMAN]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTIrUDNF9X0&feature=youtu.be

[sethmark]

Sounds GOOOOOOOD

[JimLev]

Video quality looks fine. :cool:
Now that your a YouTube pro it's time to go kart it and video it.

[HVACMAN]

Video quality looks fine. :cool:
Now that your a YouTube pro it's time to go kart it and video it.

Thanks Jim. I have a few more things I want to do before taking it back off the jack stands and I have to drive my wife to Houston for doctor appointments on the ninth and fourteenth. I may shoot for the seventeenth. I'm really looking forward to retiring at the end of the year, so I can spend more time in the garage. I will try to use the gopro for the go cart.

[HVACMAN]

Well she moved under her own power today. I didn't leave the driveway because I was by myself with no one to tow me back if something happened. The only thing I noticed was no power steering. I'll double check the wiring tomorrow. https://youtu.be/42fDyln76J0

[JimLev]

Looks like you were cautious, going a little further down the driveway each time.

The electric steering only needs to have the red and black connected to the battery and the green to a 12 volt source when the ignition is switched on, that's it.

[sread]

sounds good man! what cam you running?

[HVACMAN]

Looks like you were cautious, going a little further down the driveway each time.

The electric steering only needs to have the red and black connected to the battery and the green to a 12 volt source when the ignition is switched on, that's it.

Yes. After reading all the threads about brakes, I was being very cautious.

I checked the wiring this afternoon and didn't have 12v on the green wire. I fixed that and still nothing. Still checking.

[HVACMAN]

sounds good man! what cam you running?

Thanks! It's the stock LS 376/480. I think chevy performance calls it their "hot cam". 495 HP 473 lb./ft.

[HVACMAN]

First go kart Saturday. I am super pumped. The only issue was when i backed into the garage and turned it off. When I tried to restart, it would spin over but not start. It sound like vapor lock. After sitting for approximately 10 minutes it cranked right up. I'll install a shield for the fuel line and retry. I also need to figure out why the a/c clutch is making noise. It has done it since first start.
https://youtu.be/XFgaCjjd_v4

[sethmark]

Hell yeah! That was awesome!

[JimLev]

Sounds good except for that AC compressor buzz.
I guess you must have figured out the electric steering issue.

[HVACMAN]

Sounds good except for that AC compressor buzz.
I guess you must have figured out the electric steering issue.

Thanks Jim. CVF Racing is shipping a new compressor today. Excellent service. And yes the power steering is working great now.

[HVACMAN]

Now it's time to put the body back on and move to phase 2.

[HVACMAN]

I had 4 inches of water in the garage yesterday but none in the house thank goodness. I was having Hurricane Harvey flashbacks. I keep everything stored up high now days, so no damage. (whew!!) It's funny, this morning you can hardly tell it rained except for the soggy yard. I will install the new a/c compressor tomorrow and do the first oil change. I'm also going to dissect the oil filter. I may even go for another ride around the block.

[HVACMAN]

I haven't updated in a while. A lot of doctors appointments and generally hot weather. I have been fixing some small things. I got the power steering fixed. The front end alignment is close. I did the first oil change just because I was anxious. No nuts and bolts from the pan and the filter was clean. All is good. I have been for a few more trips in the neighborhood. Apparently nobody has called the police yet. Whew!!115595115596

[HVACMAN]

The body is back on now. Thank goodness it is finally cooling off. This past weekend I piddled with the rear wire harness routing and ran the wires for the reverse lights and the backup camera. Then I started mocking up the trunk sheet metal. I also got the fuel fill installed. 116877116878116879

[wrp]

I haven't updated in a while. A lot of doctors appointments and generally hot weather. I have been fixing some small things. I got the power steering fixed. The front end alignment is close. I did the first oil change just because I was anxious. No nuts and bolts from the pan and the filter was clean. All is good. I have been for a few more trips in the neighborhood. Apparently nobody has called the police yet. Whew!!115595115596I like to use Blackstone Labs every other oil change.

[HVACMAN]

The rest of the trunk sheet metal is mocked up. I also rewired the manual shift mode on the Lokar shifter. The way I had it the transmission was in manual mode when the shifter was in drive. 116931116932

[HVACMAN]

I managed to test fit the aluminum dash panel last night. It fits perfectly. Thanks Tim. 117201117202 I think I will try a carbon fiber wrap first. If that doesn't work out I will laminate it with a carbon fiber sheet. The only drawback to the cf sheeting is: I understand it does not like compound curves.

[HVACMAN]

I hope everyone had a bountiful Thanksgiving. I was on vacation the week of and had planed to get a lot accomplished on the car last week. That didn't happen. I spent most of Monday and Tuesday getting things ready for Thanksgiving day. Tuesday night I cooked the cornbread and boiled a chicken for the dressing. I was trying to be proactive, so that Thursday morning we could throw everything together and get it done. About 1:05 AM Wednesday morning we were knocked out of bed by a very loud explosion. The TPC chemical plant about a one and a half miles from the house experienced an explosion and fire. I was not overly concerned, we live with that threat on a daily basis in this area. We were very fortunate there were no fatalities and only three injuries in the plant and we had no damage to the house. However things were not over yet. Wednesday afternoon there was a second explosion that launched a cracking tower about six to eight hundred feet into the air and a quarter of a mile down range. This prompted a mandatory evacuation order, by local officials, for a four mile radius. My wife already has a compromised respiratory system and the wind was forecast to put us down wind the next day, so it was a no brainer. We shoved everything back in the fridge, packed a quick bag, and headed North. We got to spend Thanksgiving and Friday in a hotel in Jasper Texas. We cooked our Thanksgiving meal Friday night and it was awesome. I did get to work on the car some Saturday. I started on the console, something I had been putting off for sometime. This was a Thanksgiving we remember for the rest of our lives and we learned to be thankful for every day we are given. Life can make an abrupt turn in the blink of an eye.

[FF33rod]

WOW. That's not necessarily the kind of excitement one wants but glad you got through it unscathed!

[Straversi]

Yikes, gives new meaning to Giving Thanks. Hope everyone at the plant is ok. Easy to take for granted that people work dangerous jobs everyday so we can enjoy everyday commodities.
-Steve

[HVACMAN]

Yikes, gives new meaning to Giving Thanks. Hope everyone at the plant is ok. Easy to take for granted that people work dangerous jobs everyday so we can enjoy everyday commodities.
-Steve

From what we've been told there were three injured in the plant and all were treated and released. Probably burned on their backside. I understand there are several new holes in the fence. lol

**Update: A voluntary evacuation order was issued for the immediate area surrounding the plant, for above acceptable levels of Butadiene & VOC's. That's what happens when you put the fire out instead of letting it burnout. Never a dull moment.

[HVACMAN]

I have been working on the console as I have time. It took a lot more modification than I expected. The first thing I did was take ~3 inches off of the bottom and ~3 inches off where it meets the dash. Then I split the back 2/3 to narrow it by 1/4 inch and glassed it. I also extended the length by 4 & 3/8 inches. When I trial fit it in the car I discovered that, where it meets the dash, was off nearly 1/4 inch side to side on the face that meets the dash. To correct this I had to sand down one side and build up the other, sand,glass, fit, repeat. I will final sand that surface tonight (I hope) and start on the arm rest/storage compartment. 120293120294120295120296120297120298

[fostia]

When the key is on the daytime driving lights work, the turn signals work, and the flashers work. When I turn the lights on (park or headlights) only the brights work. I think I know why but haven't had time to dig into it. The instructions for the led headlights are not very clear. .111625111626 I also found this and added it to my shop. My Dad had 3 Humble service stations when I was a kid. I can't tell you how many gallons of gas I pumped at fifteen to twenty five cents a gallon. 111627

Hey, reading through your build thread. Did you figure out your low beam problem? I have the GEN 1 headlights but the low beam is extremely intermittent. Probably a different problem than yours but figured I'd check. I'm going to try to localize the grounds at the headlights but haven't gotten to it yet.

[HVACMAN]

Hey, reading through your build thread. Did you figure out your low beam problem? I have the GEN 1 headlights but the low beam is extremely intermittent. Probably a different problem than yours but figured I'd check. I'm going to try to localize the grounds at the headlights but haven't gotten to it yet.

If I recall correctly, my problem was the way I had the extra wires for the LED headlight bulbs wired. Yours sounds more like a ground or switch issue.

[HVACMAN]

This weekend a buddy came over to help me set the top on for the first time. Once we got it on, centered, and everything lined up, I marked the location and snapped some pictures. I am super pumped!! 120526120527120528

Then we took the top off and removed the body. After my friend left I cut the dash. Next I installed the door hinge standoffs. 120529 I also did some final fitting on the console where it meets the dash. 120530

And that brings me to a question. Since the door striker mounts bolt to the outside of the bracket, can they be mounted with the body off? I tried installing them body on, like the manual shows, and it seems impossible. Particularly on the passenger side with the a/c hoses in the way.

[FF33rod]

I must have done my AC hoses slightly differently but I can do both sides body on. I can't imagine how to do them body off with the striker sticking out like that. The body essentially has to come straight down from the top - forward motion limited by the firewall and rearward motion limited by the door jamb hitting the hinge mounting stuff.

Steve

[HVACMAN]

I must have done my AC hoses slightly differently but I can do both sides body on. I can't imagine how to do them body off with the striker sticking out like that. The body essentially has to come straight down from the top - forward motion limited by the firewall and rearward motion limited by the door jamb hitting the hinge mounting stuff.

Steve

Thanks Steve. I was thinking of attaching the striker mount, then put the body back and installing the striker through the 3/4 inch hole. I'll take a picture tonight. I just can't see a way to get that mount and the carriage bolts on the outside of the bracket and be able to start the nuts while holding the bolts in place. It is a very tight spot.

[FF33rod]

Gotcha, I understand. You'll still have to tweak the position of the mount plate so that it's right up against the body but that's easy enough once the mount hardware is in place. Can't say it was easy putting them on with the body in place. I dropped the bolt more than once trying to get them in. My hands aren't huge so that helps....

[HVACMAN]

Gotcha, I understand. You'll still have to tweak the position of the mount plate so that it's right up against the body but that's easy enough once the mount hardware is in place. Can't say it was easy putting them on with the body in place. I dropped the bolt more than once trying to get them in. My hands aren't huge so that helps....

Here's the pictures from last night with the mounts installed.120686120687
I also did a preleminary run on the a/c ducts.120688

[HVACMAN]

I had a few hours to work on the car Saturday. I got the defrost plenum located and marked on the underside of the cowl. With that done, I figured out where i wanted the duct to attach, cut the opening, then attached it to the plenum with 6-32 bolts and nuts, and bonded it with epoxy. I also finally got the face of the console built up like I wanted and the dimensions worked out. Then started laying out the cutouts for the different components. The a/c vents121454121455 are mounted and the a/c controls are ready to cut the opening. I had to order a 2 5/8 hole saw for the cup holder openings.

[JOP33]

I like the placement of the vents in the console, unique idea.

[HVACMAN]

I was able to get back on the console this weekend. I had to move the cup holders due to a wiring harness in the way. But I think everything else will be fine. I also removed the trunk metal to run the wiring for the backup camera.121935121936121937121938

[shmelty]

What rear upper control arms are you using? I am still waffling between 3 and 4 link on my order :(

[HVACMAN]

What rear upper control arms are you using? I am still waffling between 3 and 4 link on my order :(

I am using Dan Ruth's adjustable 4 link, but I used longer adjusters on the upper control arms, so that I could center the tire in the wheel well.

[HVACMAN]

This weekend I glassed in Tim Whittaker's defrost plenum and, with the help of a friend, we put the body back on the car. It is a tight fit and a lot of caution is advised, but it went over the hinge and striker mounts. I just left them loose enough so they would slide. I checked the fit of the console and installed Tim's aluminum dash panel to start laying out the gauges.
122667122668

[sread]

that console looks great man - really like the layout!

[HVACMAN]

that console looks great man - really like the layout!

Thank you. It has been more work than I ever anticipated. I probably have 80+ hours in the console and still have a long way to go.

[sread]

Hey I believe it - I keep finding that even the simplest mods end up taking 3 times as long as I thought.

[HVACMAN]

I removed the seats and mounts this weekend and installed a second layer of Dyna-Mat. I'm considering installing the carpet so that I can do a final install of the seat mounts and final fit on the console. I glassed the arm rest to the console, now more sanding. (scratch, scratch) Has anyone sourced a hinge for the armrest lid? All I have found so far are OEM with no dimensions listed. I could use a piano hinge but I was looking for something a little sturdier and spring loaded. Then fabricate the mounts for the console. I secured the body front and rear and next work on drilling the holes for the firewall and door sills.

[HVACMAN]

123626 The new arm rest.

[Bgardner]

For the hinge look at cabinet hardware.

Link for Richelieu Hardware attached, many other options available there.

https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/hinges-slides-and-opening-systems/hinges-and-accessories/hinges-integrated-into-door-frame/concealed-brass-barrel-hinge-420-series/1008094/sku-420104130

[HVACMAN]

For the hinge look at cabinet hardware.

Link for Richelieu Hardware attached, many other options available there.

https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/hinges-slides-and-opening-systems/hinges-and-accessories/hinges-integrated-into-door-frame/concealed-brass-barrel-hinge-420-series/1008094/sku-420104130

Thanks Bgardner. I went to Lowes looking for inspiration and this is what I found. 123941 If this does not work, I will look into the barrel hinges.

[HVACMAN]

Well, I worked on the Hot Rod this weekend and have the body attached at the firewall, door sills, and rear fender wells. Then I started on the trunk lid. I really envy you guys with lifts. It definitely is not easy for an old fat guy to work up through the bottom of the trunk, with the car on jack stands. I did persevere and the hinges are attached. Now to adjust them is so that it will open is a whole new learning curve. 124272124273124274

[HVACMAN]

I have spent my self isolation time working from home, on the dash, and console for the Hot Rod. I could really get used to this working from home stuff. I may never go back. lol I mounted the gauges and lights in Tim Whittaker's awesome dash panel, wired them into a single modular plug.
I also worked on the arm rest for the console. I cut the opening in the top and started on the lid. I'm cheap so I wanted to use all the material from the FFR rest. I removed the cover, foam pad, and cleaned the glue from the aluminum plate. I cut a wooden lid to fit and cut down the pad to fit the new lid. I glassed in a block in the back for the hinge to mount to. I re-covered the assembly with part of the old cover, so it would match the seats. Not the prettiest work I've ever done but I'm determined to do as much of the work as I can. My wife always said I would have made a better framing carpenter than a finish carpenter. lol 12636912637012637112637212637312637412637512637612 6377126378

[HVACMAN]

Here is the finished arm rest. 126379126380

This last picture is something from a long time past but I may wish I had kept the current. I'm not having much luck finding a ASE Master Certified Technician. I'm not ready yet but it never hurts to know where to go when the time comes. 126381

[wallace18]

Nice work!:cool:

[tony]

Is that a cabinet hinge? How do you like it. I just used regular small hinges for mine and I think they're janky.

[JOP33]

I'm not having much luck finding a ASE Master Certified Technician. I'm not ready yet but it never hurts to know where to go when the time comes. 126381

I don't know exactly how far you are from Beaumont (or what the county break-down is around that area), but I believe there is a Christian Brothers Automotive in Beaumont. I know they are a chain, but the local CBA here was able to perform my Safety Inspection and had (1) Certified Master Technician on hand. I had to schedule a two hour window with him, but they were extremely knowledgeable and very cooperative...may be worth a try at least.

[HVACMAN]

Is that a cabinet hinge? How do you like it. I just used regular small hinges for mine and I think they're janky.

It is a RV cabinet hinge. I like it. It seems to be sturdy plus it stays in the open or closed position without a latch or spring.

[HVACMAN]

I don't know exactly how far you are from Beaumont (or what the county break-down is around that area), but I believe there is a Christian Brothers Automotive in Beaumont. I know they are a chain, but the local CBA here was able to perform my Safety Inspection and had (1) Certified Master Technician on hand. I had to schedule a two hour window with him, but they were extremely knowledgeable and very cooperative...may be worth a try at least.

Thanks Jamie. I'll check them out. I'm about 20 minutes (same county) from Beaumont.

[HVACMAN]

And this is what the console looks like assembled. Now on to wiring it. I hope to condense the wiring to one modular plugs. 126615126616

I mounted the trunk lid and squared it up in the opening and it looks good except for where the lid meets the rear cowl (for lack of a better word) apparently the cowl has a wave in it. It's flush on the corners and the center but high on each side of the center. 126617126618 What should I do to fix this?

[JimLev]

My rear cowl was high too, the middle being the worst. I used L-brackets to pull it down.
See post 367 for pics.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26821-JimLev-s-Build/page10

[rapidray]

I did the same thing as Jim worked great! I also added an adjustable rod from the frame to the latch, made it real sturdy and easy to close. Ray

[cob427sc]

I made up a little bracket also to adjust the rear cowl height and I've adjusted several times over the course of the build. Thought I had it set perfectly and then later on I opened the trunk quickly - you guessed it - chipped the paint! seems like as the body "matures" the doors and trunk move around a little. Now that everyhting is painted, I've got to go back and play with the doors once more. Just hpoe I don't have anymore sanding - or worse - have gaps to big.

[HVACMAN]

Thanks for all the suggestions for the cowl. I have Tim Whittakers adjustable support. I think I will use it to maintain the center height then use Jim's idea to take the wave out. Thanks for the pictures Ray. As usual this forum save the day.

[HVACMAN]

I finally have the console ready to go back into the car. It has been a long haul but I needed it off of my table so I can work on the trunk lid. The end of last week I finished the filling, sanding, and shooting it with epoxy primer sealer. I assembled it Saturday and installed the wiring. I initially thought the switches would go to one modular plug for quick removal. I guess I should have given it more thought. lol By the time i finished it took a 12 way plug, two four way weather pack plugs, and two two way weather pack plugs. That doesn't include the plug for the fan switch, headlight switch, and the start button. 128320128321128322128323128324128325128326128327
I also had trouble finding a five-way toggle switch plate in polished aluminum, so I bought one in mat finish and polished the border to match the rocker panel, a/c controls, and the shifter trim ring. Now it shines like a diamond in a goats part that went over the fence last. 128328128329

[JOP33]

Console turned out great!

[HVACMAN]

Console turned out great!

Thanks Jamie!! It was a lot of work but Tim was right. It was worth it in the end.