#998 Build Page

[HVACMAN]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good epoxy primer? I used Max Spray on the console but it is very expensive and the coverage is not great.

[RoadRacer]

We set the body on for the first time last night. I'll take some measurements this weekend before it comes back off. It looks like a car now instead of an enlarged go cart. 108462108463108464

I'm reading through your build thread this morning (to see if you got a gen2 stage2 back then in 2018, it must have been close?) and had to stop and say I'm jealous of those rears!! Exactly what I'd hoped for until I found my GT500 set or wheels/tires for $500 :). Something to aspire to later!

[HVACMAN]

I'm reading through your build thread this morning (to see if you got a gen2 stage2 back then in 2018, it must have been close?) and had to stop and say I'm jealous of those rears!! Exactly what I'd hoped for until I found my GT500 set or wheels/tires for $500 :). Something to aspire to later!

I received a Gen1 for the most part, as best as I can tell. The headlights are Gen2. FFR had to send the 3B manual with the appropriate wiring instructions but all the body parts appear to be Gen1.

[HVACMAN]

Well.... I haven't posted in a couple of months. It turns out working from home is not all it's cracked up to be, but I tried to look at it as retirement practice. I retired on 6/30 and spent July doing retirement stuff, like moving investments and catching up on home projects. In between all that, I did find time to work on the car some. I installed Tim Whittaker's trunk lid pieces and hydraulic lifts. The transmission tunnel carpet is in along with the console, dash, and the Digital Guard Dawg, all are wired and everything works. I also started on the drivers door using Eric Hanson's videos for a guide. We'll see how that works out. 132502132503132504132505132507132511132512132513

[HVACMAN]

I have the hinge slots completed on the drivers door and completed drilling the door frames for the power windows. So I started mounting the door/frame assembly on to the hinges and worked on it for a while but something just didn't look right. Boy do I feel stupid!! I had the passenger frame in the drivers door. I had to start over.

I worked on correcting my mistake yesterday and started trying to get everything lined up to mount the latch. I have done some frustrating things in my life but this is definitely in the top five. I finally walked away and will go back to it today. I now feel everyone's pain from the accounts I've read. At least it doesn't appear I have the warped doors some have experienced.

[RoadRacer]

Coincidentally, given our build numbers, I'm right behind you :D Picked up door hardware from powder coating this morning and that's this weekend's "fun"

[JimLev]

The power windows, ugh. Another part of the build that doesn’t quite follow the manual.
I couldn’t get the window motor assy to drop into the door when it had the mounting bracket mounted to it. I cut off part of the 90º bend where the bracket bolts to the door frame so I could get it in. You’ll see what I’m talking about when you get there.
Another thing the manual shows is the bracket the glass slides into gets bolted to the lift bracket using the bottom 2 holes. I had to use the top 2 holes so there would be some vertical track exposed at the top to drill the hole for the top window stop.
I’m also having trouble getting the window to even come close to sealing on the weather strip that goes on the window opening.
And the pieces that are suppose to slide into the window opening you cut in the top of the door won’t fit. The tops of my doors are pretty thick.
I’m using some 3/8 x 1/2” angle aluminum to trim the window opening and bought some parts that tcollins used to seal the glass at the door opening.
The hole you cut for the bearclaw lock needs to be enlarged too.

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And thanks to Wallace for this info.
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[HVACMAN]

Coincidentally, given our build numbers, I'm right behind you :D Picked up door hardware from powder coating this morning and that's this weekend's "fun"

Good luck this weekend. I made some progress this afternoon. I have everything lined up and the hole drilled in the front through the latch mount and the screws in the rear door hinge plate. Now take it all apart to install the latch.?.?
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[HVACMAN]

The power windows, ugh. Another part of the build that doesn’t quite follow the manual.
I couldn’t get the window motor assy to drop into the door when it had the mounting bracket mounted to it. I cut off part of the 90º bend where the bracket bolts to the door frame so I could get it in. You’ll see what I’m talking about when you get there.
Another thing the manual shows is the bracket the glass slides into gets bolted to the lift bracket using the bottom 2 holes. I had to use the top 2 holes so there would be some vertical track exposed at the top to drill the hole for the top window stop.
I’m also having trouble getting the window to even come close to sealing on the weather strip that goes on the window opening.
And the pieces that are suppose to slide into the window opening you cut in the top of the door won’t fit. The tops of my doors are pretty thick.
I’m using some 3/8 x 1/2” angle aluminum to trim the window opening and bought some parts that tcollins used to seal the glass at the door opening.
The hole you cut for the bearclaw lock needs to be enlarged too.

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And thanks to Wallace for this info.
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Thanks for the information Jim/Wallace. I will be using Tim's plans also for the power windows.

[HVACMAN]

Well 2020 refuses to relinquish. Two hurricanes in the gulf at the same time. Unprecedented!! You can't make this stuff up. I spent most all day doing preliminary hurricane preparation. I mowed the grass (rain all week at the very least), filled the vehicles with fuel, ran the generator for a bit, filled gas cans, and water cans. The car is up on jack stands and I have most items at least two feet off the floor. As it looks tonight, one will go 150 miles West of us and the other will pass 200 miles East. I've been through a lot of these and it pays to be prepared.

[FF33rod]

Yikes, good luck!
Steve

[RoadRacer]

Good luck.. it was storming pretty good in Austin, so I can only imagine what the coast is seeing.

[JOP33]

Well 2020 refuses to relinquish. Two hurricanes in the gulf at the same time. Unprecedented!! You can't make this stuff up. I spent most all day doing preliminary hurricane preparation. I mowed the grass (rain all week at the very least), filled the vehicles with fuel, ran the generator for a bit, filled gas cans, and water cans. The car is up on jack stands and I have most items at least two feet off the floor. As it looks tonight, one will go 150 miles West of us and the other will pass 200 miles East. I've been through a lot of these and it pays to be prepared.

Will keep you in our prayers...stay safe!

[JimLev]

Hope it changes direction and spares you.
Stay safe.

[HVACMAN]

Thanks Jim. Looks like you were good luck. What a difference 24 hours makes. It looks like both storms are going into Louisiana. We dodged a bullet this time. Only two months of hurricane season left. lol

Thanks to all.

[HVACMAN]

While finalizing hurricane preparations today I sneaked in some time on the drivers door. 134152 Look Ma no tape! It opens and latches. It just needs adjusting.

[FF33rod]

"just" needs adjusting, that is a project unto itself ;)

Steve

[HVACMAN]

Looks like we won the hurricane lottery this year. I hope the car is still there when I get home.

[HVACMAN]

Electricity and internet came back on last night. What a long week.

[HVACMAN]

It's amazing the difference between the driver and passenger doors. I had the passenger door fit to the opening in less than 30 minutes and the inner and outer belt lines line up.

[fostia]

It's amazing the difference between the driver and passenger doors. I had the passenger door fit to the opening in less than 30 minutes and the inner and outer belt lines line up.

Yeah, my drivers is a POC. Im having to do a lot of bodywork to get everything right. Basically got the outside belt line aligned and then everything interior is mismatched and the door top is like a half inch too low. I had to also do the door twist trick by sandwiching a washer between the door and latch brackets for one of the two bolts.

[HVACMAN]

Yeah, my drivers is a POC. Im having to do a lot of bodywork to get everything right. Basically got the outside belt line aligned and then everything interior is mismatched and the door top is like a half inch too low. I had to also do the door twist trick by sandwiching a washer between the door and latch brackets for one of the two bolts.

I will have to learn how to do the door twist trick. Do you have any pictures? Mine is out at the bottom front about 1/4 inch. The inside belt line at the top is not going to be fun at all.

[Dodgeman]

My driver side door on my 1st gen is also out by 1/4-3/8" also. i need the twist trick too please.
I am beginning to wonder if I will ever finish the car, due to one problem after another.
How do you get the side panel sheet metal for the truck to fit properly? With mine I have 3/4-1" gap where the panel meets the body.

Any help would be appreciated.
Bob

[FF33rod]

Some are asking about the door twist trick. What I'm about to say is relevant to Gen 1 but the Gen 2 door frame design changed and I have no idea if you can do the same thing with it or not.

Let's assume that you're happy with the door height relative to the body, that the rear (hinge end) of the door is lined up nicely with the body both bottom and top and yet the front of the door is twisted - either the top of the door is sticking out or the bottom is. What you can do to fix that is use washers as shims between the inner door frame and the door latch mount. There are 2 bolts holding these pieces together and the washer(s) go in between the door latch mount and the door frame to create an angle between the two. Think of the door frame as the reference. Putting washers on the upper bolt will push the top of the door latch mount inward hence making the bottom of the door stick out further than the top. Putting washers on the lower bolt does the reverse, it pushes the bottom of the door latch mount inward causing the top of the door to stick out further than the bottom.

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Hope that helps
Steve

[HVACMAN]

My driver side door on my 1st gen is also out by 1/4-3/8" also. i need the twist trick too please.
I am beginning to wonder if I will ever finish the car, due to one problem after another.
How do you get the side panel sheet metal for the truck to fit properly? With mine I have 3/4-1" gap where the panel meets the body.

Any help would be appreciated.
Bob

I think my gap was wider than that. I bought some weather striping on Amazon. I thought I had a picture but I can't find it. I'll take a couple tomorrow and post them here.

[HVACMAN]

Thanks Steve. It helps a bunch.

[HVACMAN]

Bob my trunk side gap was wide and I thought I had bought the stripping from Amazon but it actually came from Steel Rubber Products. https://www.steelerubber.com/top-lip-push-on-seal-70-3710-99 The pictures below show without & with the seal.

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[Dodgeman]

Thanks for the information, I going to order 6' of to also do the interior behind the waterfall where the side aluminum panel doesn't meet the body.
Bob

[HVACMAN]

Thanks for the information, I going to order 6' of to also do the interior behind the waterfall where the side aluminum panel doesn't meet the body.
Bob

For the rear cowl area I used some square foam insulation glued to the square tube. The body sits down on it and it compresses nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0737C4GWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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[JOP33]

For the rear cowl area I used some square foam insulation glued to the square tube. The body sits down on it and it compresses nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0737C4GWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If there is one thing I wish I would have done a better job on my build with, it would be insulating and sealing the area (gaps) around the firewall to the body. I get a significant amount of hot air transferring from the engine bay through this area, to the point that it tends to over power any ac comfort. This will be a winter project for me, but it will be much more challenging now that the body is on than if I would have handled it when I should have.

[HVACMAN]

The car now has both doors and they both open and close. i've been putting this off for a while.

[HVACMAN]

We got the power back on this evening after only four days this time. I still have some cleaning up to do but things are getting back to normal. First covid, then two hurricanes in six weeks. 2020 is starting to get on my nerves.

[McGuyver]

Glad to hear thing are getting back to normal or whatever we want to call it now!

[junglejim]

We got the power back on this evening after only four days this time. I still have some cleaning up to do but things are getting back to normal. First covid, then two hurricanes in six weeks. 2020 is starting to get on my nerves.

Sorry to hear about your weather troubles. Here in upper Alabama hurricanes don't pose much threat, other than a lot of rain. I was in Destin last month & got to sit in the room for three days waiting for Sally to pass through. Side note: why does every family member/aquaintance have to celebrate their birthday/anniversary,etc when we're trying to work on our cars?

[HVACMAN]

Sorry to hear about your weather troubles. Here in upper Alabama hurricanes don't pose much threat, other than a lot of rain. I was in Destin last month & got to sit in the room for three days waiting for Sally to pass through. Side note: why does every family member/aquaintance have to celebrate their birthday/anniversary,etc when we're trying to work on our cars?

Thanks Jim. Hurricanes are an inconvenience but ya'll have to deal with tornadoes. I spent summers in NE Alabama as a kid. My Mom's family were all from the Cordova, Tuscaloosa, Jasper area.

[HVACMAN]

I have been dividing my time between doors, trunk lid, and waterfall. It's hard to say which is more frustrating. My questions today concern the waterfall. It fits well along the top, semi well at the door sills, and not good at all behind the seats. Is this normal?136829136830136831136832136833136834136834 It seems to be flush against the carpet on the rear cockpit wall midway down but juts out at the bottom.

[FF33rod]

Same here. Youve got the most important and visible places looking good. Consider it a victory! I think mine sticks out more than yours in the area behind the seats but no one is going to see it anyways

Steve

[JOP33]

Have to agree with Steve, the top and door areas are the most visible and stand out. The behind the seat area, for me, is that junk drawer in the kitchen we all have!

[HVACMAN]

Thanks for the quick replies. I will try to take your advice but I will know it's there. It depends on how much it bothers me. lol

[JimLev]

Mine sticks out almost 2”. I used a few 1/4 x 20 bolts to pull both sides in flush.
Then there’s that big ugly open area below the waterfall to the floor. What are you going to put there?

[HVACMAN]

The seats and console will hide most of that. I hope.

[fostia]

The seats and console will hide most of that. I hope.

Mine sticks out too. I added a L bar on the back lip for my roll bar mounts that made it even worse. With the seats in, non issue. However, if you are really anal you can hack your waterfall up and make it fit like a glove in all other areas...

I did this mostly because my rollbar mounts screwed the fitment all up... but even before that, it never fit as good as it does now. Since im #1001, your waterfall was prob made around the same time. This however added considerable bodywork time and im about over this bodywork thing...
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[HVACMAN]

The doors get all the bad press but for me it's the trunk lid that keeps my frustration level maxed out. The passenger side fits well but the driver side is 1/4" high at the lower corner. It's like the lid is warped. I have been playing with this thing on and off for 6 weeks.

[fostia]

The doors get all the bad press but for me it's the trunk lid that keeps my frustration level maxed out. The passenger side fits well but the driver side is 1/4" high at the lower corner. It's like the lid is warped. I have been playing with this thing on and off for 6 weeks.

100% agree. The trunk has been miserable for me and its still not right at the corners. Ive given up. I think we got a bad batch. You #998, me #1001 ansd SVTfreak #1002 have all posted recently on long prolonged problems. I bought the tim whittaker kit, added rods with adjustable ends attached to rivnuts in the corners to try to "pull it in".

[HVACMAN]

I often wondered what happened when guys have been posting regularly on their build threads and all of a sudden you don't hear from them for a long while. I have discovered first hand what probably happened. The two big culprits are life gets in the way and body work. At least that's what happened to me. It has been approximately 10 months since I updated this thread but I haven't been sitting back. I retired at the end of June last year and then bought a new house in November, moved in December, and sold our old house. I went from a 264 sq ft garage to a 650 sq ft garage with an attached 12x20 shop and a 12x8 parts room. I managed to work on the car as I could between remodeling the shop, hanging pictures, gardening, and other honey do's. you know how it is , you have to make it yours. 2021 has to be better right? Well it started off that way, then in early March the oldest daughter was diagnosed with Covid-19. She entered the hospital on March 4th and was placed on a ventilator in the ICU on March 6th. She passed on 4/12. As a parent, nothing can prepare you for that. It's just not natural. It's just been in the past few weeks that I have been able to get back in the garage. I spend most of my time looking for tools and parts, lol, but that is improving. That brings us to the second culprit, bodywork. But then nobody wants to hear about fiberglass dust and fitting body panels.

[HVACMAN]

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[HVACMAN]

I keep this guy on the desk in the shop. He reminds me of the hours I spent staring at the trunk lid. lol152454

[33fromSD]

I often wondered what happened when guys have been posting regularly on their build threads and all of a sudden you don't hear from them for a long while. I have discovered first hand what probably happened. The two big culprits are life gets in the way and body work. At least that's what happened to me. It has been approximately 10 months since I updated this thread but I haven't been sitting back. I retired at the end of June last year and then bought a new house in November, moved in December, and sold our old house. I went from a 264 sq ft garage to a 650 sq ft garage with an attached 12x20 shop and a 12x8 parts room. I managed to work on the car as I could between remodeling the shop, hanging pictures, gardening, and other honey do's. you know how it is , you have to make it yours. 2021 has to be better right? Well it started off that way, then in early March the oldest daughter was diagnosed with Covid-19. She entered the hospital on March 4th and was placed on a ventilator in the ICU on March 6th. She passed on 4/12. As a parent, nothing can prepare you for that. It's just not natural. It's just been in the past few weeks that I have been able to get back in the garage. I spend most of my time looking for tools and parts, lol, but that is improving. That brings us to the second culprit, bodywork. But then nobody wants to hear about fiberglass dust and fitting body panels.

So sorry to hear this, terrible loss :(

My deepest condolences HVACMAN

Jim

[33fromSD]

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Shop looks good

Jim

[33fromSD]

I guess a third reason people stop posting is they finish their build.

I miss posting my sometime daily or weekly updates. While mine is "completed", registered and on the road now I'm still very much in the tweaking stage. Playing with shocks right now for a better ride.

I lucked out on the body work on my 33, my doors, waterfall, trunk lid, fenders and engine side covers all fit great. Sure there was a little tweaking here, grinding there, but for the most part the fit was very good. I actually found the panels were fine. but on the doors the door metal needed to be tweaked slightly.

The only piece that needed a lot of modifications on mine was the belly pan but some was my own doing, I took it from two pieces and glassed it together in one, but I did need to add material by the grill, I was a good inch short in one spot. Learned a lot about fiberglass though.

Besides tweaking on the 33, I now turned my attention back to my 67 mustang convertible and 55 F100, but are full restorations and both are about the same distance along with all the new metal on / properly gapped but now its to the tedious part of final body work stage before prep & paint.

Good luck on your builds everyone, one day at a time is all we can do.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Sorry to hear this HVACMAN. We went through the same things ourselves some years back and it’s amazing how many friends it happens to that we had no idea of. Sending very best wishes.

I took a lot of shortcuts but I’m glad I did. Minimal bodywork and no paint. On previous cars I did the same.. drive them for a year or more and then improve/finish. The advantage is that you have more fun, faster and cheaper :). But then when I see Jim’s finished result I start dreaming of paint ;)

You aren’t that far away, if you ever want visitors I need an excuse for a road trip. I do know that seeing and driving in other’s cars is sometimes needed to get your enthusiasm back!

[JimLev]

Andy, sorry to hear about your daughter, my condolences to your family.

Yes, your right about dropping the ball on updating our builds. I’ve been working on the car, just not as much as in the past. Bodywork isn’t something I’ve ever enjoyed doing. Getting the chassis to the go kart stage was the quick fun part.

[McGuyver]

Andy, So sorry to hear about your loss. If it ever cools off I will get back in the garage and get back to work on mine. Nice to see you posting again.
Ed

[HVACMAN]

Thanks to all for the well wishes. I am working on the car almost daily now. I have the hardtop able to be bolted on and secured by nine studs, fender washers, and nuts. I think I will leave it just bolted on until time for paint. At this point am going to push for registration so I can put some miles on the car, like Road Racer did. I have been driving around the neighborhood (it is insured) but we have a 25mph speed limit. I have been working on the hardtop getting it ready. I cutout the extra material around the windshield and rear window. Now I'm filling the gaps and voids between the outer and inner panels with glass and HSRF. Thank goodness it is an early production hardtop I bought from another builder who decided to keep his as a roadster. It is not going to require near the attention Jim Lev's did.

[j33ptj]

So sorry to hear about your loss.... I have two adult kids myself now, and probably would not know what to do if either of them would pass away.

I sure hope you finish the car and perhaps you can dedicate to your daughter, I am sure that she wanted you to finish it!

Take care and stay healthy
Robert

[peterh226]

Sorry to hear about your loss. Covid is really nasty and is taking way too many people.
Hopefully the car will provide some therapeutic time. Nothing like creating and building something to help you mood. Life happens but its nice to return to something fun.
I've driving mine now to get the bugs sorted out, looks like paint next year. Schedule is not the point anyway!

[e36m3]

I'm sorry for your loss. I can't think of better theraphy than getting the car on the road. Sounds like you are making great progress.

[narly1]

So sorry for your loss. I've witnessed firsthand the devastation the loss of a child has on a parent. Not me, but my own Dad.

Cars will never replace our loved ones but hopefully they can provide a sorely needed distraction when we need it most.

Earl

[HVACMAN]

I ground out all the seams and joints on the hardtop over the past week or so and started filling with HSRF. Man that stuff is hard to sand. This weekend I kept one ear on the news with a hurricane in the gulf. When we moved we went from 17 feet above sea level to 150 feet ASL but still well within range of a major storm like Ida. More sanding next week.

[peterh226]

I like the tiger/cat hair filler. Seems more like the glass around it..

[AJT '33]

I often wondered what happened when guys have been posting regularly on their build threads and all of a sudden you don't hear from them for a long while. I have discovered first hand what probably happened. The two big culprits are life gets in the way and body work. At least that's what happened to me. It has been approximately 10 months since I updated this thread but I haven't been sitting back. I retired at the end of June last year and then bought a new house in November, moved in December, and sold our old house. I went from a 264 sq ft garage to a 650 sq ft garage with an attached 12x20 shop and a 12x8 parts room. I managed to work on the car as I could between remodeling the shop, hanging pictures, gardening, and other honey do's. you know how it is , you have to make it yours. 2021 has to be better right? Well it started off that way, then in early March the oldest daughter was diagnosed with Covid-19. She entered the hospital on March 4th and was placed on a ventilator in the ICU on March 6th. She passed on 4/12. As a parent, nothing can prepare you for that. It's just not natural. It's just been in the past few weeks that I have been able to get back in the garage. I spend most of my time looking for tools and parts, lol, but that is improving. That brings us to the second culprit, bodywork. But then nobody wants to hear about fiberglass dust and fitting body panels.

Deepest condolences to you and your family, stay strong!

[HVACMAN]

Still sanding. lol But not today. The granddaughter tested positive for Covid yesterday, she spent the weekend with us, so the wife and I went and got tested today. The results were negative thank goodness. More sanding tomorrow, if I can fight the urge to go for a ride.

[33fromSD]

Still sanding. lol But not today. The granddaughter tested positive for Covid yesterday, she spent the weekend with us, so the wife and I went and got tested today. The results were negative thank goodness. More sanding tomorrow, if I can fight the urge to go for a ride.

Ah yes, I remember that stage, sanding, and more sanding, and more sanding. :(

Honestly, I liked the ease of working with fiberglass vs. metal in the panel fitting stage, but when it comes to final body work, I found fiberglass prep more of a PITA & definitely more messy than metal.

Once all the gel coat on the panels was scuffed properly for sealer, the next steps were pretty comparable to metal but prepping all the gel coat on all the panels seemed to take for ever, and the dust / mess, holy crap. :rolleyes:

All worth it though, seeing all the paint schemes on everyones completed 33s kept me going to the finish line.

I hope your grand daughter has none or minor issue only from COVID.

Jim

[wallace18]

Our deepest sympathy to you and your family. Take care and God Bless.

[HVACMAN]

Ah yes, I remember that stage, sanding, and more sanding, and more sanding. :(

Honestly, I liked the ease of working with fiberglass vs. metal in the panel fitting stage, but when it comes to final body work, I found fiberglass prep more of a PITA & definitely more messy than metal.

Once all the gel coat on the panels was scuffed properly for sealer, the next steps were pretty comparable to metal but prepping all the gel coat on all the panels seemed to take for ever, and the dust / mess, holy crap. :rolleyes:

All worth it though, seeing all the paint schemes on everyones completed 33s kept me going to the finish line.

I hope your grand daughter has none or minor issue only from COVID.

Jim

Yep. I'll be glad to finish with the HSRF. It is much harder to sand than Rage. Still a ways to go though. I'm just working on the top.
The granddaughter is going to be fine, I think. She got the antibody infusion today and the symptoms were all gone within a few hours. Her dad and brother, who both tested negative, got the preventative treatment.

[33fromSD]

Yep. I'll be glad to finish with the HSRF. It is much harder to sand than Rage. Still a ways to go though. I'm just working on the top.
The granddaughter is going to be fine, I think. She got the antibody infusion today and the symptoms were all gone within a few hours. Her dad and brother, who both tested negative, got the preventative treatment.

That is good news about your granddaughter, her dad & brother.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

Slow and steady wins the race. She's looking a little better each day.
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I'm not sure what's going on with the second photo. I can't get the correct orientation on it.

[33fromSD]

Slow and steady wins the race. She's looking a little better each day.
153242153243
I'm not sure what's going on with the second photo. I can't get the correct orientation on it.

All looking good.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

I was able to get back to the car last week. My youngest daughter flew in from Tacoma the third week of September and we enjoyed taking the kids and grandkids tubing in the boat and picnicking at the beach. We even made it to the grandsons football game. Sanding is moving right along
(slowly lol). At least I can see some progress after each days session. The most difficult part is the left rear quarter panel. It appears when it was attached to the body it either was not aligned properly or it slipped. It is 1/8 inch high at the top and ~3/16 low at the bottom, creating a large divot below the tail light area. I am trying to re-sculpt it, to match the right side.154095154096154097154098154099

[HVACMAN]

I pulled her out of the garage Tuesday to take some updated pictures.156305156306156307156308156309

I also took her out Friday to the back of the neighborhood (sparsely populated) to give her a couple of half throttle runs. Holy crap!!! The acceleration is amazing. It took most of the afternoon to get the smile off of my face. This is more fun than I imagined. With that said, I am still having a vapor lock issue. I will shield the fuel line in the engine compartment to see if that takes care of it.

[Jeff33Ford]

Wow that is looking good. That is a lot meat on those back tires.

[HVACMAN]

Saturday I took a break in sanding to work on the waterfall modification. I'm making it into a 3 piece so that the center section is removable for fuel tank access. With the hardtop permanently attached the roll bar would not be removeable. I made a aluminum plate backer that is attached with 10-32 button head screws. Now I have to match it for the other side. It's not pretty but functional but then it doesn't have to be pretty. No body will ever see it but me. lol It's really not bad since I only had a vise, crescent wrench, pipe, and hammer to work with. I have never done any metal work before. This project has seen a lot of firsts for me. 156340156339

[HVACMAN]

Y156510156511esterday I built the second one for the other side. As usual, it took half as long and looks twice as good.

[HVACMAN]

I just wanted to post this in case anyone else has the same issue. I have had an ongoing transmission fluid leak that I isolated to the dipstick tube. It can't be seen from the engine compartment or from under the car. I decided to cut an access hole in the trans tunnel. I will fab a panel to screw in place for future access. Any way, it was leaking where the tube enters the transmission. I remembered when I installed it, the directions said to install the top hat seal on the tube then insert the assembly into the trans. That was not possible since the seal OD was much to large. The tube has dual o-rings so I installed directly into the trans. After removing the tube I measured everything and found the following. Transmission dipstick port - 0.750 Dipstick tube - 0.740 & 0.748 with o-rings Dipstick tube with seal installed - 0.895 I replaced the o-rings with #113 viton o-rings. Now the tube with the o-rings measures 0.758. I installed the assembly last night and so far no leaks. I'll take her for a spin tomorrow to see what happens. The dipstick tube was from Jeg's and is a firewall mount.

[progmgr1]

The nugget of information in post #324 is the reason why I read everything on the Forum that may remotely be related to my build or future builds. I keep these tidbits in a file called "Build Tips" sorted by topic. It's always nice to know that someone else has solved a problem that I might run into someday. In this case, I have a similar trans dipstick / fill tube but mine came from Summit. I don't remember having a problem when I installed it, but now I'll know where to look if a leak shows up.

Thanks for sharing!

Keith HR #894

[JimLev]

Many moons ago I remember I had changed the o-ring too.

[McGuyver]

Andy, thanks for posting. I have been a little concerned about that fit myself, think I will swap those o-rings out as a proactive measure. Besides it will give me a break from finalizing all the wiring. Shortening and repining these LS 3 harnesses takes awhile but it is worth it. I am bringing a +12v input (brake depressed) to the trans controller to unlock the torque converter. I did notice that the way the brake light circuit operates I will also be getting a +12v pulse whenever the hazards are on. So best to refrain from driving with hazards on. Of course, if you can drive it you probably don’t need hazards.

[HVACMAN]

I did some more sanding yesterday and mounted the mirrors.156669156670156671

[HVACMAN]

I have been chasing a vapor lock condition for some time now. In the past I installed a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2" aluminum heat sinc to the frame to sheild the fuel line. Today I insulated the fuel line in the engine compartment and went for a tour of the neighborhood. I made it further today but it was cooler. When this happens, the car will die and it will turn over but won't start. I can leave the cooling fan running (coolant temp is 195F) for ~3 minutes and the car will start. When I got back to the shop I droped the heat sinc and insulated the fuel line from where it transitions under the car back past the mufflers and reinstalled the heat sinc. Tommorow another test drive.158072158073

[33fromSD]

That's a bummer, you're not even running side covers and still have vapor lock issue.

From your signature it looks like you're running an LS3. If memory serves me right LS based engines require 58 psi of the fuel pressure. Have you measured the fuel pressure? From the pump to the injectors should all be 58 psi. Should be very little pressure in the return from reg to tank (maybe 1-3 psi).

At 58 psi vapor lock should be nonexistant so I'm wondering if it's more of a fuel pump issue maintaining proper pressure verses a vapor lock issue.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

That's a bummer, you're not even running side covers and still have vapor lock issue.

From your signature it looks like you're running an LS3. If memory serves me right LS based engines require 58 psi of the fuel pressure. Have you measured the fuel pressure? From the pump to the injectors should all be 58 psi. Should be very little pressure in the return from reg to tank (maybe 1-3 psi).

At 58 psi vapor lock should be nonexistant so I'm wondering if it's more of a fuel pump issue maintaining proper pressure verses a vapor lock issue.

Jim

Thanks for the suggestions Jim. I will definitely check the fuel pressure but I didn't suspect this as a problem. The car runs great under hard acceleration. When it happens it's usually been at ~30mph for 3-4 miles. I'm running a Boyd tank with the Aeromotive 340 in tank pump and a full tank of fuel. I'm running a Corvette return from the fuel filter.

[JimLev]

Yes, 58 PSI is correct for the LS3.
Andy, where is your regulator located? I have mine mounted on the pass side firewall.

[HVACMAN]

Yes, 58 PSI is correct for the LS3.
Andy, where is your regulator located? I have mine mounted on the pass side firewall.

Hey Jim. I am have the Corvette system which has the regulator and return in the fuel filter. It regulates at 58psi.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230150/make/chevrolet/model/corvette

[33fromSD]

Hey Jim. I am have the Corvette system which has the regulator and return in the fuel filter. It regulates at 58psi.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230150/make/chevrolet/model/corvette

Not saying this is your issue, but my only caution on these can style regulators / filters is they may not be truly regulating at 58 psi. The reviews I've seen on similar ones seem to vary from slightly under 58 psi to upper 60's psi.. The issue is there is just a thin diaphragm inside controlling the pressure and if there was assembly issues or slight defects it will alter the fuel pressure.

To JimLev's point, as a safeguard, if you have a separate controllable regulator with a pressure gauge attached you can set the inlet pressure and know you have 58 psi going in to your fuel rails.

Jim

[sread]

If you are running the stock ecu is there a way to read the fuel pressure live from the diagnostic port? I'm not familiar with the stock GM system but most aftermarket set ups have a provision to install a pressure sensor and monitor actual fuel pressure.
FWIW I'm running an LS and also have the Boyd tank with aeromotive 340 pump but I just recently switched to a 255L Walbro. I have heard of too many instances of those Aeromotive pumps failing prematurely. Mine was starting to sound like it was grinding rocks. I just put the body on for the last time and the thought of having to pull the fuel tank again was keeping me up at night. That 340 pump is overkill for most any na build and while it shouldn't really be a problem it is possible that the constant re-circulation could create a heating/aeration condition. You said the tank is full and as cool as it is right now I wouldn't think it would happen, but who knows? I also installed heat shields for the fuel lines along the sides of the frame very similar to yours but I haven't been able to drive my car enough yet to find any issues.
Anyways, good luck and let us know what you find out.

[HVACMAN]

I didn't get to drive the car yesterday. I had a big oak tree taken down yesterday morning. Needless to say that kept me busy until dark. I will make it a point to drive her today.158119

[HVACMAN]

So, I made time to drive the car today. I made a six mile tour this afternoon, with a few half throttle sprints, and the car never bobbled. It was warmer today and I drove her a couple of miles further than normal. Is it fixed? Maybe? I'll make a point to drive her every day the rest of the week.

[HVACMAN]

I drove the car yesterday and she died twice. Always the same, when coming to a stop throttle closed. Then it won't start for ~two minutes. There are no trouble codes in the ECM or the TCM. Fuel pressure gauge and regulator is on the way.

[33fromSD]

That sucks, sorry to hear this. Definitely something going on with fuel delivery, or possibly an electrical gremlin.

One thing I thought about last night, are you running a normal accelerator pedal (from FFR) for your LS3 or do you have a computerized one tied into the ECU? If it's the later I wonder if the pedal position sensor is dying (whether the 5v reference voltage for the pedal position is failing).

Keep at it, you'll get it, this forum is great so someone on here may have had a similar issue

Jim

[HVACMAN]

That sucks, sorry to hear this. Definitely something going on with fuel delivery, or possibly an electrical gremlin.

One thing I thought about last night, are you running a normal accelerator pedal (from FFR) for your LS3 or do you have a computerized one tied into the ECU? If it's the later I wonder if the pedal position sensor is dying (whether the 5v reference voltage for the pedal position is failing).

Keep at it, you'll get it, this forum is great so someone on here may have had a similar issue

Jim

Thanks Jim. I am using the fly by wire accelerator. I am thinking maybe something with the idle air control or throttle position sensor. Since the car only has 40 miles on it, maybe still learning? I am still researching. My original thought was vapor lock, but the fact that it only take ~2 min. to start kind of blows that theory out of the water. Did I mention that when trying to start the car during the no start condition, I can hear the fuel pump run? It doesn't help that it sets no trouble codes.

[33fromSD]

Yup, I couldn't get my head around vapor lock as I noted above since you engine is wide open to the elements, but stranger things have happened.

Keep in mind the fuel pump can run and not supply the right volume or too much volume. Hearing it run is just a piece of it. Your pressure gauge will help answer that.

Do you have any external fuel filters outside the tank that could have picked up some debris?

My money is still on fuel deilvery somewhere, or possibly the throttle sensor or some other sensor setting.

Have you done any data logging yet on these short runs? Maybe you can send that log to someplace who can look at the fuel mapping and other sensor readings. I would think a professional tuner could shed some light on this.

Good luck, keep us posted. I'll be off line for a week but I'll check in when I get back.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

I should have the parts mid week but we are having Christmas here next weekend with the kids and grandkids, so they can do their own thing Christmas day. The oldest granddaughter graduates from college the following weekend. Spare time will be rare but I will post any updates.

[HVACMAN]

This evening I installed a fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail. I did not have time to go for a drive but the static pressure is ~50lbs. and with the fuel pump energized it's ~66lbs. and remains there with the engine running. Tomorrow it's predicted to be in the forties and raining. Maybe it will stop in the afternoon and I can go for a drive.

158878158879

Now I have to brag a little. Friday we attended the oldest granddaughters graduation. She earned a BSN degree in Nursing and her RN in 3 1/2 years. On top of that she was Summa Cum Laude. I don't think there were two prouder grandparents.

158880

[33fromSD]

This evening I installed a fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail. I did not have time to go for a drive but the static pressure is ~50lbs. and with the fuel pump energized it's ~66lbs. and remains there with the engine running. Tomorrow it's predicted to be in the forties and raining. Maybe it will stop in the afternoon and I can go for a drive.

158878158879

Now I have to brag a little. Friday we attended the oldest granddaughters graduation. She earned a BSN degree in Nursing and her RN in 3 1/2 years. On top of that she was Summa Cum Laude. I don't think there were two prouder grandparents.

158880

Congrats on your granddaughter's graduation, & Summa Cum Laude award, that is awesome, and nursing is such a needed and valuable profession!!

On the 33, I assume you'll install the regulator and try to get the FP around that 58 psi mark right? 66 is a bit high.

The other thing to try (if you can do it) is mount a go-pro or some other camera device pointed at the fuel pressure gauge to see if it remains steady while driving or if you have intermittent fuel pressure issues while driving.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

Congrats on your granddaughter's graduation, & Summa Cum Laude award, that is awesome, and nursing is such a needed and valuable profession!!

On the 33, I assume you'll install the regulator and try to get the FP around that 58 psi mark right? 66 is a bit high.

The other thing to try (if you can do it) is mount a go-pro or some other camera device pointed at the fuel pressure gauge to see if it remains steady while driving or if you have intermittent fuel pressure issues while driving.

Jim

Thanks for the suggestion Jim. I have the GoPro on the dash waiting for the test drive. Excellent idea. I went back and reviewed the paper work that came with the engine. It says a minimum fuel pressure of 60psi. I will take her out tomorrow after the 40 mile oil and filter change.

[33fromSD]

Been thinking about this some more. If your fuel pressures remains steady after your run, then you may want to start looking for the possibility of an air leak / vacuum leak.

An air leak / vacuum leak would cause the engine to run lean and then the computer would take a few seconds to adjust or in some case it would stall if it can't react soon enough.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

I finally got the oil change and test drive done today. It turns out the holidays are not conducive to getting things hot rod done. lol Both the oil change and the test drive were uneventful, except for the guy on the motorcycle who followed me home to look at the car. I drove around the neighborhood for the best part of an hour and over twelve miles without a bobble. I had the gopro focused on the fuel gauge, whitch never fell below 64psi.The weather will be in the 80's for the next five days. I'll post any updates.

[JimLev]

Above I posted the fuel pressure should be 58 PSI, however that is for my 430HP LS3.
You have the 480 HP LS3. Chevy says the pressure should be 60 PSI.
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/chevrolet/na/us/english/index/performance/resources/installation-guides/crate-engines/01-images/ls-engine-controller-kits-all-naturally-aspirated-non-e-rod-except-lc9.pdf

[HVACMAN]

Above I posted the fuel pressure should be 58 PSI, however that is for my 430HP LS3.
You have the 480 HP LS3. Chevy says the pressure should be 60 PSI.
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/chevrolet/na/us/english/index/performance/resources/installation-guides/crate-engines/01-images/ls-engine-controller-kits-all-naturally-aspirated-non-e-rod-except-lc9.pdf

Thanks Jim. That is what my paperwork, that accompanied the engine, confirms. I figure with the gauge tolerance, I'm pretty close. I'm still hopeful the ECM is still learning the idle and return to idle process. The idle does seem to be improving with each drive. I took a break today to cook ribs (Texas Christmas Dinner) and will resume driving tomorrow. I have the batteries charged for the Gopro. I don't to have to add a return the full length of the car unless I'm forced to.

[HVACMAN]

Another 30 minute drive today without a problem. This is the first time I've had two consecutive trips with no problems. The idle is definitely better and gets better with each drive. Maybe the car is intimidated by the gopro. lol Who knows.

Question: Didn't the gen1's come with a headliner? Or was I dreaming.

[JimLev]

Yes, I got a headliner with my Gen 1 kit.
Did you get a boot for the e-brake lever? I thought I had one but can’t find it.

[progmgr1]

My hand brake boot was supposed to be in the box with the carpet pieces, but ended up not being there when I finally needed it (5 years after my Gen 1 kit delivery). I contacted FFR and was told that they didn't have any boots available. I ended up buying one from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-70ehbf
Keith HR #894

[JimLev]

Thanks for the link Keith. I did look in my carpet box, not there.

Andy, I’m pretty sure the headliner comes with the interior carpet parts. I’m not going to use the one that came with my car so if you want it let me know.
OR, was I thinking about the cloth that is used to cover the waterfall?? Guess I’ll have to open the box again to see what’s in there. I’m not using that or the carpet either.

[HVACMAN]

Yes, I got a headliner with my Gen 1 kit.
Did you get a boot for the e-brake lever? I thought I had one but can’t find it.

Yes. I did receive a e-brake boot but i believe it is significantly different from the earlier model. Please disregard the sock covering the chrome. lol 159363

[HVACMAN]

Thanks for the link Keith. I did look in my carpet box, not there.

Andy, I’m pretty sure the headliner comes with the interior carpet parts. I’m not going to use the one that came with my car so if you want it let me know.
OR, was I thinking about the cloth that is used to cover the waterfall?? Guess I’ll have to open the box again to see what’s in there. I’m not using that or the carpet either.

I looked briefly yesterday and found the few remaining carpet pieces and the material for the waterfall in one box. Another box had the door panels and arm rests. I can't find it mentioned in the paper work anywhere. I will do a more thorough search tomorrow but I did move after I retired, so there's that. I would swear that I have seen others mention the headliner on Gen1's. I don't know. Maybe not??? Let me know if you find out anything Jim. Thanks for the help.

[HVACMAN]

I installed the passenger side carpeting and seat last week. On Saturday I took the oldest grandson for a ride. We rode around for about 45 minutes including a couple of half throttle pulls. He had a grin on his face the rest of the day. lol There were zero issues with the car dyeing. I'm not exactly sure what to think about that. It's been a while now since the car has died on a return to idle.

[33fromSD]

I installed the passenger side carpeting and seat last week. On Saturday I took the oldest grandson for a ride. We rode around for about 45 minutes including a couple of half throttle pulls. He had a grin on his face the rest of the day. lol There were zero issues with the car dyeing. I'm not exactly sure what to think about that. It's been a while now since the car has died on a return to idle.

Well, there are two ways to look at that. Either it was a learning issue with the system and the system is now catching up and capturing good data, or it's an intermitent gremlin somewhere that will come back to bite you in the most inconvenient time. :confused:

For now as long as it is running good, enjoy the heck out of it. I know the feeling with your grandson, last fall before I tucked mine away for winter I gave my neighbor's 10 year old son a ride in my 33 and his dad said he smiled the whole weekend and didn't stop talking about it for weeks. Good times

Jim

[HVACMAN]

I took the car for another drive yesterday before pulling the hardtop off. No issues with idle or dying on return to idle. I removed the top to work on the headliner, install the front and back glass, install the three piece waterfall, and the rollbar. I'll also get to fabricate and fit the brackets for the headrests to the rollbar and weld them into place. It's time to make a push for registration. I'm tired of sneaking around, worring about getting stopped. We have two sherriff's deputies that live in the neighborhood.

[HVACMAN]

This weekend was cold (45 in the shop) but I insulated the hardtop Saturday and positioned the rollbar. Today I fabricated brackets for the headrests and test fit them on the rollbar. Next I sat in the car to decide on the headrest location on the brackets. The most comfortable position seems to be where the top contacts the head just over half way up and the bottom contacts approximately half way down the neck. does this seem safe? I think I will provide hole to allow moving them up and down ~2 inches. Now I need to decide the location fore and aft. Suggestions?

160326160326160327

[wallace18]

Looks pretty good to me. :cool:

[RoadRacer]

This weekend was cold (45 in the shop) but I insulated the hardtop Saturday and positioned the rollbar. Today I fabricated brackets for the headrests and test fit them on the rollbar. Next I sat in the car to decide on the headrest location on the brackets. The most comfortable position seems to be where the top contacts the head just over half way up and the bottom contacts approximately half way down the neck. does this seem safe? I think I will provide hole to allow moving them up and down ~2 inches. Now I need to decide the location fore and aft. Suggestions?

160326160326160327

I always go sit in my wife's car and see where manufacturers put things like this (I remember doing this for pedals, positioning gear stick, etc, etc). You know they'll put headrests where they're supposed to be. I often think about headrests when I'm sat in a turn lane and see cars whizzing up behind me...

[HVACMAN]

I always go sit in my wife's car and see where manufacturers put things like this (I remember doing this for pedals, positioning gear stick, etc, etc). You know they'll put headrests where they're supposed to be. I often think about headrests when I'm sat in a turn lane and see cars whizzing up behind me...

Thanks James. That is kind of what I did. I don't care for my GMC. Too high, so I used the wifes Ram for reference and feel.
I know what you mean about people speeding up behind you. I've had a quadruple cervical fusion and I hold my breath until they come to a stop. lol

[peterh226]

This weekend was cold (45 in the shop) but I insulated the hardtop Saturday and positioned the rollbar. Today I fabricated brackets for the headrests and test fit them on the rollbar. Next I sat in the car to decide on the headrest location on the brackets. The most comfortable position seems to be where the top contacts the head just over half way up and the bottom contacts approximately half way down the neck. does this seem safe? I think I will provide hole to allow moving them up and down ~2 inches. Now I need to decide the location fore and aft. Suggestions?

160326160326160327

I'm planning something similar. What does the lower part of the Headrest bracket attach to? I was thinking of running a bar across the car. Did you make or buy the headrest pad?

[HVACMAN]

I'm planning something similar. What does the lower part of the Headrest bracket attach to? I was thinking of running a bar across the car. Did you make or buy the headrest pad?

Hi Peter. The lower part of the bracket will be cut off once I determine a final length. The headrest pads come from Monster Scooter Parts and they are for a Jazzy Select Elite power chair. By the way your build is amazing.
https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/catalog/product/view/id/22389/s/low-profile-headrest-jazzy-select-elite/?gclid=CjwKCAiAxJSPBhAoEiwAeO_fPxREU5NfuncSoAiRfWO NGWvYEKHcy8N2ZnSl1Nd747UMai-K7Xr4exoCr4MQAvD_BwE

[HVACMAN]

Started removing the drivers door this afternoon. FF is sending a replacement. Any issues on the newer doors?

[33fromSD]

Started removing the drivers door this afternoon. FF is sending a replacement. Any issues on the newer doors?

My issue with Gen2 doors on the Gen2 body is the fiberglass shells themselves were fine, holding the empty shells up to the body everything lined up great. The issues I ran into and I documented it in my build post was the metal door brackets / supports were bent wrong so before I noticed that, after I installed the door shells on the door frame they wouldn't fit (lots of bowing, and out of alignment). Once I noticed the issues with the metal and fixed that, I had no issues with my doors, they fit great.

Jim

[peterh226]

I agree with Jim. The doors fit ok but move all over the place as you attach all of the steel pieces. I started to make the steel follow the fiberglass and got better fit in some areas. Don’t forget that the body flexes a lot around the door opening as well. Look what happens as you push and attach the area at the door sill. The body is a big learning curve for us newbies. Hang in there and go work on something else when you get frustrated.

[HVACMAN]

My issue with Gen2 doors on the Gen2 body is the fiberglass shells themselves were fine, holding the empty shells up to the body everything lined up great. The issues I ran into and I documented it in my build post was the metal door brackets / supports were bent wrong so before I noticed that, after I installed the door shells on the door frame they wouldn't fit (lots of bowing, and out of alignment). Once I noticed the issues with the metal and fixed that, I had no issues with my doors, they fit great.

Jim

Thanks for the help Jim. The main concern I had with the door, beside the twist, was the fact that with the outer belt line aligned, the top of the door was ~1/4 inch lower than the body. I could build it up but the top of the door is already very thick.

[HVACMAN]

I agree with Jim. The doors fit ok but move all over the place as you attach all of the steel pieces. I started to make the steel follow the fiberglass and got better fit in some areas. Don’t forget that the body flexes a lot around the door opening as well. Look what happens as you push and attach the area at the door sill. The body is a big learning curve for us newbies. Hang in there and go work on something else when you get frustrated.

Thanks Peter. lol That is what I've been doing for the last year. work on it for the door until the frustration level started on an upward curve then move to something else.

[Blade]

I had the same issue. I could get the belt line to match up but the top of the door was off a 1/4 inch. Then I discovered that after putting on the aluminum pieces that hold the felt on the top of the door and filling and molding it to the top of the door it came out pretty darn close.160619160620 I cut the aluminum to fit the top of the door, used some self tapping screws to hold it, applied panel bond to underside of alum. once set, took out the screws and filled,sanded, and primed. these pics are the best I have.

[HVACMAN]

We had a heatwave today, it was 29 this morning but warmed to 60 this afternoon. I worked on the headliner today. I made a template out of masking paper, then glued it to cardboard. I then cut it out oversize and test fit. I kept trimming and testing until I was satisfied. Then I transfered the pattern to 3/16 fiberboard and cut it out. Then I started the sanding and fitting process. After a couple of hours it was a loose fit (I left room for the vinyl). I found some vinyl on Amazon that matches the pleated seats. If i don't like it, I can always tear it out and use the vinyl intended for the waterfall.

161345161346

[HVACMAN]

I made it to the Houston Auto & Boat Show yesterday. It consisted mostly of Auto Manufacturers showing off new and prototype vehicles but there were also some classics to be seen. Here are a few pictures.161509161510161511161512161513

A little off the subject but we also got to see Mercury's new 600 hp outboard. What an engineering masterpiece. It is a naturally asperated 7.6 liter Digital fuel injected V-12 with twin counter rotating props. The powerhead is stationary and the lower unit articultes for steering. I was amazed.

[JimLev]

Any pics of that V-12?

[J R Jones]

Jim, I did Mercury development for more than ten years. Carl's old two stroke I6 was known as the "Tower of Power" but I doubt they will call the V12 the "Twin Tower"

https://www.tradeonlytoday.com/.preview/cn027b7f8230002607?auth=8b54fecf1c73d80a6125fedd97 42a22d5858e795&nonce=1613053055881&utm_campaign=Trade%20Only%20Today%20Newsletter&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=110625353&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-9qvom_RMI9OOPzmCHFap_hM7_T0UQ0uOuFagfxw12igiouzDls V9snVyjoPIe4olpUKvjpUoeJfowdztybheIJCjh4R1CMGmaKAA 3DWwvPj4OJUaQ&utm_content=110625353&utm_source=hs_email

jim

[HVACMAN]

Any pics of that V-12?

I wish I had taken some pictures. I was so amazed and the show was closing, I totally forgot. One side of the engine was cut away, so it was interesting trying to identify all the components. The bore appeared to be ~3 inches. Now that I think about it, I'm really kicking my self for not taking photos.

[McGuyver]

My son brought home a couple of pictures. Here’s the V-12 and cut away on a V-8 or V-6? He actually had a 5 sec video that shows how the power head is stationary and the gearbox pivots. 161578161579

[Jeff33Ford]

My son looked this up too. Pretty crazy. I was shocked he said it was $77k. I thought it would be more considering boat prices.

[HVACMAN]

Once again life stuck it's foot in the door but this tme it just slowed me down for a bit. I have the headliner installed. The pictures below are the second attempt. The first was perfect except I glued the fabric to the wrong side of the fibre board. Like everything else on the car, the cut out in the tops iner liner is not symmetrical, so flipping it over was not an option. I threw it in the garbage and started over. I cut a new backer, sanded it to fit, only to find the material was on backorder. Eventually the material arrived and I was able to get it installed on the correct side of the backer this time. As of today it is installed in the hardtop.

164183164184

[Brave Salmon]

I'm curious as to why you installed it before paint? Is it removable?

[HVACMAN]

I'm curious as to why you installed it before paint? Is it removable?

Excelent question. The answer to your question is: no it is not removable. I will mask it off when and if the day for paint ever comes. Once the windshield, rear window, and wiper are installed, I will push for registration and drive it. My intension was never to build a show car, but to perform every aspect of the build myself and enjoy the experience, which I have done so far. Paint and bodywork are two things I have never done in my lifetime but I will attempt it when the time comes. It's just paintand if it's not right sand it off and paint it again. My original goal (I know my limitations) was to build a fifty fifty car. It looks good at fifty feet going fifty miles per hour and drive the snot out of it.

[Brave Salmon]

I did the same thing with my Gen1. Every nut bolt, rivet, wire and drop of paint was done by me. LIke me, you'll be one proud puppy when you finish it off and then you can truly say "Built, not Bought". have a great time and enjoy the paint process. I had a ball doing mine but I'll never do another one for sure!