Papa's MKIV Roadster Build - #9115 (Post Grad) - One million + views!!!

[Ray]

---Trans A frame after
---Position the chassis nose low, tail high as Go Dad stated
---Engine leveler makes it a 10 minute one man job

Cheers,
Jeff

How they did it at the factory:75799

Ray

[TexasAviator]

Papa,

I too have an electrical engineering background. My enjoyment is power supplies and power amplifiers. I have audio amplifiers, tuned crossover networks for speaker systems, and my best build was a 500 watt HF radio amplifier into an old Sony ES heatsink from the 90's. I miss tinkering but being in the Family and the Air Force has kept me busy.

My wife and I are form Colorado SPrings. My oldest son was born there. My mom and dad live in Black forest right down the road from you on Highway 83. I am going skiing this winter. I would love to come up to parker to say hi.

Good luck with your build. I hope to move back to Colorado or Utah someday. I miss my mountains.

[Papa]

Papa,

I too have an electrical engineering background. My enjoyment is power supplies and power amplifiers. I have audio amplifiers, tuned crossover networks for speaker systems, and my best build was a 500 watt HF radio amplifier into an old Sony ES heatsink from the 90's. I miss tinkering but being in the Family and the Air Force has kept me busy.

My wife and I are form Colorado SPrings. My oldest son was born there. My mom and dad live in Black forest right down the road from you on Highway 83. I am going skiing this winter. I would love to come up to parker to say hi.

Good luck with your build. I hope to move back to Colorado or Utah someday. I miss my mountains.

My EE focus is in Radio Frequency Spectrum and Telecommunications. Just give me a shout when you are in the area. I'd love to have you come by.

Dave

[Papa]

Today was 'prep for engine install' day. I wanted to clean up and attach cushion clips to hold my harnesses neatly within the trans tunnel rather than using zip ties. I drilled, tapped, and installed the cushion clamps along both sides of the tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84619&d=1524424003

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84620&d=1524424019

I also replaced the original brake reservoir bracket I made out of the thin aluminum. It was very flimsy and I was afraid of frothing the brake fluid. I bought a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum and counter sunk a couple of stainless screws though the upper frame support and attached the reservoir to the plate. It's rock solid now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84621&d=1524424027

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84622&d=1524424033

While cleaning up the rear harness placement, I snapped off the retaining clip on the fuel sending connector. I posted in the main forum as well, but if anyone can help me locate a replacement for that plug, that would be awesome.

I have several guys, including rrrose (Ron) from the forum, coming over to help me with the engine install tomorrow!

[Papa]

Engine install day is here! I've got the chassis positioned and the engine out of the crate with the motor and trans mounts attached.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84623&d=1524424148

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84624&d=1524424154

[wallace18]

You may have to loosen the 2 bolts on each motor mount to get it in the chassis. Once in you can tighten it all up.

[broku518]

wow, exciting!
Quick question, how hard was to join the transmission and engine/clutch?
M. Forte is shipping them separately, so I will have to join them whenever ready.

Thanks,
Martin

[Paul2STL]

Lookin good Papa, I'm guessing you are tackling it by yourself. Let us know how it went I will be dropping my engine in soon also. Good idea with the ramps to get the rear up higher. I would take the shifter off the trans so it doesn't catch on the tunnel. Also maybe wrap the trans with some rages to protect you firewall and tunnel when going in. Good Luck!

[GoDadGo]

Papa,

Yours is going in while mine is popping out.
Watch your fingers & good luck.

Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

You're all set with the tail high, nose low and an engine leveler---stab it in there!

Jeff

[Papa]

You may have to loosen the 2 bolts on each motor mount to get it in the chassis. Once in you can tighten it all up.

She went in without any issues! I'll post pictures once they finish uploading to Flickr. My son-in-law was taking pictures during the entire install and I ended up with 130 photos!

[Papa]

wow, exciting!
Quick question, how hard was to join the transmission and engine/clutch?
M. Forte is shipping them separately, so I will have to join them whenever ready.

Thanks,
Martin

Martin,

Mine came assembled as you see it from BluePrint. I'm sure you can get it done with all the YouTube videos out there and the generous experts on this forum.

Dave

[Papa]

Lookin good Papa, I'm guessing you are tackling it by yourself. Let us know how it went I will be dropping my engine in soon also. Good idea with the ramps to get the rear up higher. I would take the shifter off the trans so it doesn't catch on the tunnel. Also maybe wrap the trans with some rages to protect you firewall and tunnel when going in. Good Luck!

It went in without a single scratch! After getting it in I pulled out the drive shaft and realized that I should have pulled the shaft out of the tail housing before installing. It would have been a little shorter that way and I don't need the one BluePrint shipped since the FF drive shaft is complete with the 31 spline shaft.

[Papa]

Papa,

Yours is going in while mine is popping out.
Watch your fingers & good luck.

Steve

Thanks, Steve. Same to you!.

Dave

[Papa]

Okay guys, the engine is in! I had a lot of help and that made things go very smoothly. The only real issue we had was that the engine hoist wouldn't fit under the front end and we had to raise the front a few inches. We had three guys guiding the engine into the car, including Mr. Ron Rose, a fellow MK4 builder! I had one guy under the car guiding the transmission in. I decided to try to do the install with the trans a-frame installed as Ron suggested based on what he learned at the build school. We had no issues getting it in this way and I didn't have to fight with it later. Here are a few pictures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84625&d=1524424294

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84626&d=1524424301

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84627&d=1524424309

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84628&d=1524424315

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84629&d=1524424321

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84630&d=1524424328

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84631&d=1524424334

[Yama-Bro]

Looks awesome! Glad it went well for you.

[rrrose]

It was great to help out. It really went in with zero issues we didn't scratch any part of the frame anywhere. The hardest part was cranking the leveler which has a poorly designed crank handle.
Dave provided all his helpers hot dogs and sodas with adult beverages after the task was complete.

Its just wonderful this community and making new friends.
Ron

[Mikeyc911]

damn I should have called you

[Derald Rice]

The hardest part was cranking the leveler which has a poorly designed crank handle.

Ron

Next time take the handle off and then double nut the end of the load leveler so that you can use a small impact driver.

[Papa]

Next time take the handle off and then double nut the end of the load leveler so that you can use a small impact driver.

The cheap Harbor Freight leveler's handle is welded to the gear shaft. The revolving handle they provide is made out of some sort of plastic and it simply wasn't up to the task once the leveler was past the center point. I suppose I could always weld a tall nut to the thing and use an impact wrench on it. Hopefully I'll never need it again.

[GoDadGo]

That's One Clean Installation!

Keep the wiring tidy and you'll have a show stopping, world class, award winning engine compartment.

[mach'er]

That looks great!!! I bet it feels good to have that thing in there!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Looks like you had a good crew and I imagine a few laughs. Well done.
-Steve

[Derald Rice]

The cheap Harbor Freight leveler's handle is welded to the gear shaft. The revolving handle they provide is made out of some sort of plastic and it simply wasn't up to the task once the leveler was past the center point. I suppose I could always weld a tall nut to the thing and use an impact wrench on it. Hopefully I'll never need it again.

Got it. My harbor freight leveler , maybe 15 years old, just had a bolted on handle that was easily removed. Another example that new and improved does not mean better.

Congratulations on one of the major milestones of your build.

[wareaglescott]

Its just wonderful this community and making new friends.
Ron

Congrats on getting the motor in. Can't wait to see the first start video when you get to it!

I gotta say as Ron already mentioned but the community of builders on this project has been one of the most pleasantly surprising parts of the entire build. I never expected to make a network of friends all over the country building one of these cars. I will probably never even see most of these people in person yet everyone is always so willing to help out the next guy. I only wish I had more builders in my area!

[Papa]

Thanks to all for the kind words of encouragement! I didn't expect to be this far along in my build for a long time still. It definitely felt like a major milestone getting the engine in and it wouldn't have been possible without the support from the great group of fellow enthusiasts here in this on-line community as well as those, like Ron, who are there in person when you need the help.

Dave

[TexasAviator]

great job. I am not far from getting my drivetrain bolted up and on its way into the car. I see the engine still has many of its tags still on it. I am probably going to try and run the engine before I install it to make sure there are no leaks and anything else i may have to address while its out of the car.
Again, great job. And it looks awesome!

[Papa]

great job. I am not far from getting my drivetrain bolted up and on its way into the car. I see the engine still has many of its tags still on it. I am probably going to try and run the engine before I install it to make sure there are no leaks and anything else i may have to address while its out of the car.
Again, great job. And it looks awesome!

Thanks! My engine was run on the dyno stand at BluePrint just prior to shipping it to me. I know that's not a 100% guarantee, but I feel pretty good about the engine being ready to go once I figure out all the connections, fluids, etc..

[WIS89]

Papa-

She looks great! I have the BluePrint 408, and I can't wait to get it started. It looks so nice in the engine bay.

Congratulations on the awesome milestone, and doing it with a great group of guys helping out!

You are making great time, and I look forward to watching your continued progress.

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Today I plumbed in my heater bypass.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84632&d=1524424508

I also installed the drive line and filled my transmission with fluid.

I went to my local auto parts store and the guy behind the counter asked what I was looking for. I told him I needed three quarts of GM Synchromesh MTF - 12345349. He got a "what?" look on his face and then proceeded to ask me what it was for. I told him it was for a Tremec TKO 600 transmission. Again with the "what?" look on his face. He then asked, "Is that a bike or what?" I told him it was an after market 5-speed transmission. He then wanted to know what kind of car it was and I told him it was a Cobra replica. He asked, What year?" I started getting annoyed and told him he wasn't going to find it in his computer, but he insisted. "What make?" Factory Five. "What year?" A 2017 Factory Five replica of a 1965 AC Cobra. After staring at his computer, he finally told me what isle the transmission fluid was on. The entire section was full of every type of ATF you could ever want except for the very bottom corner where they had three quarts of what I needed.

To wrap up the day, I installed the water temp sensor, added some line separators to my fuel lines, and connected the positive battery cable to the starter.

[GoDadGo]

Papa,

You'll start to really enjoy your runs to the auto parts store.
Do what I explain that your car is a custom race car that will be street legal and then wait for the stupidity to begin.
When they ask you the stupid questions, answer with precise accuracy by giving them the Make, Model, Year, Engine, Transmission, Etc, Etc, Etc.
Let the tap on their keyboards and look at their screens, then tap some more until they get frustrated.
It Gets Better After 10-15 Minutes, Then They Usually Finally Understand & Really Try To Start Listening To You!

Steve

[Yama-Bro]

haha, I just had my first episode with the auto parts store with my car. I asked for 1/2-20 open lug nuts. I assumed they'd just have a big bucket of them for me to dip into. But no, they had to know what car it's for. I just sighed and said "it's basically an 1987 to 2006 mustang". The guy struggled a bit and looked at me weird, but he entered something. My family was out waiting in the car so I didn't want to drag it along more than necessary.

[Jim1855]

While they're called "Parts Guys" they are really "Part Number Guys". Often their knowledge of parts is limited.
Jim

[Papa]

Ughhh! A couple of weeks ago I was cleaning up the wiring harness attachments and while unplugging my fuel sender, I snapped the retaining clip off. Okay, it happens. I found a replacement on RockAuto.com and after it arrived, I cut the broken one off and attached the replacement. I used heat shrink tubing and taped up the new plug; good as new! When I pushed the new plug on, the clip broke off; same as the last one! One more $18.00 order and I'll try again; maybe warming the plug with the heat gun a little before pressing it on.

[Papa]

Third time was the charm! I finally got a fuel sender plug installed without snapping off the retaining clip. I didn't get much else done today as CINC HOUSE exerted her will and I spent most of the day helping her with other tasks.

I did have a few minutes to start looking at the EFI wiring. The power and ground wires for the EFI are too short to reach the battery directly. Has anyone experienced any issues using distribution blocks for stuff like this?

Next I looked at the fuel relay and control harness and it looks like I'll need to get some technical support from FAST or BluePrint. When I was checking the RF harness, I was able to verify the RF relay was working and I could power up my fuel pump. The FAST EFI setup came with a separate relay, but the weather pac plugs on the relay harness don't match up with the main EFI harness.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84633&d=1524424808

I'm wondering if I need to use the FAST relay or if the EFI computer really wants/needs to control the fuel pump. Isn't it pretty much just on when the key is in the on and crank positions?

And finally, the sending units for the water temp and oil pressure senders have plugs on them that are the same as the ones on the dash harness I already connected. The RF sending unit harness was what I was planning to use, so I assume I just need to cut the plugs off and wire the sensors to the sending unit harness.

[Papa]

A bit more progress today. I installed the oil pressure sender with the extension recommended. I also connected up the wires from the oil pressure and water temp senders to the sending unit harness. I folded over the two wires for the oil temp and encased in heat shrink tubing. I'm not using an oil temp gauge, but may someday want to do so and this way the wires are handy. I ran a tachometer wire from my coil back to the firewall inside the sender harness and will tie it in with the tachometer/coil wire in the RF EFI harness.

If I'm not running backup lights, can I just tie up the harness on the tail of the transmission, or should I remove it?

I sent an e-mail to BluePrint about my question on the wire harness plugs for the fuel pump relay that came with the EFI setup. I also want to be sure that if I use that relay, I need to cut the loop on the RF fuel pump relay (tan wire).

Any advice on integrating the FAST EFI into the RF harness would be appreciated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84634&d=1524424892

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84635&d=1524424899

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84636&d=1524424908

[chmhasy]

Papa, when you installed your wiper motor, did you you reinforce the fire wall where you mounted it?

[Papa]

Papa, when you installed your wiper motor, did you you reinforce the fire wall where you mounted it?

I didn't. My firewall is insulated with Thermotech mat and with the large bolts and flat washers it feels really solid.

[chmhasy]

I didn't. My firewall is insulated with Thermotech mat and with the large bolts and flat washers it feels really solid.

thanks

[TexasAviator]

Nice work. You are moving along quite fast. I am watching some of your mods. I love the firewall Insulation. It is something you would find on a factory built car. I used a skinnier sensor so I didnt have to utilize that long tube from Ford.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/38345932152_d6dfa6fe6f_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/38345932152_807019fdf5_h.jpg)

[Papa]

Nice work. You are moving along quite fast. I am watching some of your mods. I love the firewall Insulation. It is something you would find on a factory built car. I used a skinnier sensor so I didnt have to utilize that long tube from Ford.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/38345932152_d6dfa6fe6f_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/38345932152_807019fdf5_h.jpg)

Thanks! I was looking at different oil pressure senders and didn't find anything obvious that was compatible with the FFR (Speedhut) Vintage gauges. With the one wire sender, I assume ground is provided via the engine block?

[TexasAviator]

That is correct. When i buy gauges, I will either get a compatible gauge or will build a small circuit to convert the resistance in ohms. It sounds like it may cause a bit more work but I love building circuit boards. This might be a fun little exercise in electronics theory.

[Papa]

That is correct. When i buy gauges, I will either get a compatible gauge or will build a small circuit to convert the resistance in ohms. It sounds like it may cause a bit more work but I love building circuit boards. This might be a fun little exercise in electronics theory.

Or, you could get one that is already built.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sender-converter-analog-to-resistance-read-any-sender-for-existing-gauges-/262975817155

[TexasAviator]

Nice but I was thinking a basic voltage divider or matching the meter to the sensor using an OP amp. It would be nice to use a chip for a bank of sensors. Etc. You doing any electrical engineering or circuit design for your car.

[Papa]

Nice but I was thinking a basic voltage divider or matching the meter to the sensor using an OP amp. It would be nice to use a chip for a bank of sensors. Etc. You doing any electrical engineering or circuit design for your car.

I haven't done any circuit design since college. Most of my work has been in the communications and RF spectrum area. I have done some work integrating MMICs, ASICs, and FPGAs in the same field for high-end digital receivers, but not actually building any of the devices. I'm currently working on the next-generation GPS ground command and control system as a system integrator and system engineer.

[TexasAviator]

I haven't done any circuit design since college. Most of my work has been in the communications and RF spectrum area. I have done some work integrating MMICs, ASICs, and FPGAs in the same field for high-end digital receivers, but not actually building any of the devices. I'm currently working on the next-generation GPS ground command and control system as a system integrator and system engineer.

I have been reading about that. I have a Bachelors in Aeronautical Science and many of my undergrad classes were mostly computer science. I have always loved building circuits and anything I cant get my hands on to pass the time when I was a teenager. Now in my late 30's I feel like the paradigm is about to shift after I finish my time in the Air Force. I really want to get into aerospace, R&D, Applied Sciences, or something along the lines of engineering. I dont have an EE or a ME but I would still like to use my MBA towards a company that will allow me to manage projects in the STEM fields.

[Papa]

Not a lot to talk about on my build this weekend. I'm concerned that I may have done some electrical damage while trying to test various circuits using a Power Probe II. I was trouble shooting my wiper circuit and was able to directly power the motor with the probe, but couldn't get it to operate via the switch. While fiddling around with the probe, I think I managed to fry my wiper motor and my gauges light up, but the needles are all off the bottom of the sweep pointing due east on the dial except for the reverse sweep speedo, which is at around 15 mph.

Put the probe down! I am going to need some serious help getting the electrical sorted out, so I hope Doc is up to the task. :)

On to something else while I try to get over my mistake. I decided to tear my seats apart and install the CobraHeat WarmSeats. I have the leather roadster seats and the installation was way easier than I expected. The only tools I needed were a razor, some spray adhesive, my hands, and a little patience.

I removed the bottom cover completely, but the back I only needed to undo the plastic clips to allow me to slide the heater pad between the cushion and the cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84637&d=1524425094

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84638&d=1524425100

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84639&d=1524425106

Next I used a bit of adhesive to get the pad stuck to the front of the bottom cushion.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84640&d=1524425117

I then made a slit in the foam to embed the wiring.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84641&d=1524425124

I reinstalled the cover and used spray adhesive to re-attach the cover to the cushion and reassembled the seat with the wires accessible under the seat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84642&d=1524425131

I'm now thinking of how to route the wires so they don't get pinched when mounting the seat. I'm not sure how I'll do that yet, so any recommendations would be appreciated.

That's it for today.

[TexasAviator]

Nice work today. Good luck with the electrical. Hope you didn't damage anything.

[Papa]

Another week and too many things going on to work on my build. I have just a few more days of work and then I'll be off until next year. With the help of BB767 and others, I think I should be able to get the EFI wired up and ready for first start. I've also received direct communication with BluePrint thanks to Yama-Bro's help. I'll be trying to get the cooling system in place next and once I complete the wiring, clutch and throttle cable install, and get my headers and pipes from GAS-N, I should be ready for first start.

[BB767]

Hey Papa, could you send me information on where to purchase that oil pressure extension please? Thanks.

[Papa]

Hey Papa, could you send me information on where to purchase that oil pressure extension please? Thanks.

This is the one I bought:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c2oz-9b339-c

[BB767]

Thank you, it's in the mail.

[Papa]

Some good news today. I confirmed my wiper motor isn't fried and I was able to directly power my gauges and they are working! The problem appears to be that I'm not getting power at the gauge feed wire (brown wire in the dash harness). With a volt meter attached, I get a brief power reading when the ignition is switched to the on/run position, but then right back to 0 volts. I received a new ignition switch from FFR and will replace the one in the car when I get a chance. I'm just relieved that it doesn't appear that I fried anything.

I'm also going to post my questions in the main forum to get a bit more visibility.

[Papa]

One work day left this year and I'll be able to spend some serious time in the shop! I got a call from Georgie at GAS-N today and my headers are shipping out this week! I am 99% sure I will be able to complete all my EFI electrical connections thanks to a lot of very patient people from this forum, FFR, and BluePrint. I need to get the power steering lines on, clutch cable connected, throttle cable connected, cooling system installed, headers installed, and then a thorough review of my pre-start checklist and I hope to have a first start video to post before the end of the year!

[TexasAviator]

I'll be in the springs back forest area in about 10 days if you want to meet up.

[Yama-Bro]

I'm anxiously awaiting your first start. Can I ask...Are we there yet?:p

[Papa]

I'll be in the springs back forest area in about 10 days if you want to meet up.

I sent you a PM. Give me a shout when you're in the area.

[Papa]

I finally got to spend time in the shop and made some great progress today.

1. I installed the power steering hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84643&d=1524425447

2. I installed the clutch cable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84644&d=1524425462

Is it normal to have the clutch pedal so far forward of the brake pedal? If not, how do I adjust it?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84645&d=1524425468

3. I installed the throttle cable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84646&d=1524425476

The first thing I did was press the accelerator pedal to check full range and the cable popped out of the crappy ball and stud mount on the pedal. After getting it all back together and adding a second set screw (don't say it Steve :o), I ordered a complete Lokar throttle cable assembly (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CONKFQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It should solve the cable coming off issue.

4. I installed the radiator; complete with Breeze shroud and lower support.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84647&d=1524425482

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84648&d=1524425491

All in all a good day!

[Higgybulin]

I'm jealous!! Its looking good!!

[Papa]

I'm jealous!! Its looking good!!

Thanks! I am hopeful that I'll achieve first start before the end of the year. Have you decided on any build details yet?

Dave

[TexasAviator]

I am using the stock cable but routed mine through the front of the engine so as not to have heavy bends and "S" turns. Mine has a nice big loop and a lower mount for the cable using the fitech.

[Papa]

I am using the stock cable but routed mine through the front of the engine so as not to have heavy bends and "S" turns. Mine has a nice big loop and a lower mount for the cable using the fitech.

Do you have a picture of your install?

[Higgybulin]

Thanks! I am hopeful that I'll achieve first start before the end of the year. Have you decided on any build details yet?

Dave

I'm Canadian so there's a few hoops to jump through but it will be a complete kit by the time I'm done ordering parts. Small block powered, old school race car looking. 15" wheels with the higher profile tires, one roll bar, 5 speed. The usual stuff!!
Higgy

[TexasAviator]

Do you have a picture of your install?

Some people are switching to the linkages from the vendors and they are probably the best route but I dont have a big budget so I am utilizing as much of the stock ffr stuff as possible.

The sucess to the cable is to either go with a heavy duty lokar unit or go with the stock ffr cable. The trick to the ffr cable is to not bend it much. If you use it in a large loop it doesnt require anything more than a smoothe bend to the throttle. The caveat is that your throttle has to have the ability to pull from the front rather than the rear. I used a plastic bushing to adapt the ffr cable and set screw adapter to the throttle. I also used a bracket from the clutch cable to adapt for use on top the manifold. There is still some work to do and this is just a trial run but pulling from the front keeps the cable engagement very smooth. There is less friction in the cable when its conigured this way. With the "S" bends it adds friction and reduces throttle reaction or you have to add additional springs to make up for the slowed movement.

Here is what i came up with. Its still a work in progress. But it is working the way it is now.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4636/39143901801_6ce34e745e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22D1JfD)2017-12-18_04-56-46 (https://flic.kr/p/22D1JfD) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[Papa]

Some people are switching to the linkages from the vendors and they are probably the best route but I dont have a big budget so I am utilizing as much of the stock ffr stuff as possible.

The sucess to the cable is to either go with a heavy duty lokar unit or go with the stock ffr cable. The trick to the ffr cable is to not bend it much. If you use it in a large loop it doesnt require anything more than a smoothe bend to the throttle. The caveat is that your throttle has to have the ability to pull from the front rather than the rear. I used a plastic bushing to adapt the ffr cable and set screw adapter to the throttle. I also used a bracket from the clutch cable to adapt for use on top the manifold. There is still some work to do and this is just a trial run but pulling from the front keeps the cable engagement very smooth. There is less friction in the cable when its conigured this way. With the "S" bends it adds friction and reduces throttle reaction or you have to add additional springs to make up for the slowed movement.

Here is what i came up with. Its still a work in progress. But it is working the way it is now.



That should work fine. My concern was more about the cable coming loose at the pedal. The FAST EFI came with a complete set of brackets for just about every type of factory setup out there. Once I get the new cable installed I should be just fine.

Dave

[GoDadGo]

Gents,

From the Alternate Universe, you can mount the throttle body backwards and Holley style carbs too.
427's had the Holley carburetors mounted in this fashion for their dual carb setups.
This will give you an easy U-Bend in the throttle cable as opposed to the S-Bend.

Steve

Edelbrock carbs SHOULD be oriented in the old fashion manner.

[TexasAviator]

my regulator is built into the fitech. I can reverse mount it but then my fuel lines would come off the front of the motor in at least one of the positions since the return is set to this one outlet. The way the fitech is designed it has the extra hole for the linkage to pull from the location in the above picture. So it works either way on that left side. Its really a nice feature so there is no need to flip the entire assembly around. Sorry to clog up your thread PAPA.

[Papa]

After looking at the radiator plumbing that came with the FFR complete kit I decided to go ahead and spring for a set of Boig Mototsports Cool Tubes. I ordered the upper with the integrated filler, which I think provides a nice, clean look. My timing was good as Bob is giving free shipping until the end of the month! I'm building quite a collection of parts for my post graduation "Parts for Sale" post.

[wisel1]

Papa, where did you get that battery box? Does that come with the kit (I got the full one) or is this something you bought as an upgrade? I really like the look as opposed to the standard mounting I was going to do on top of the rear panel. Thanks.

[Papa]

Papa, where did you get that battery box? Does that come with the kit (I got the full one) or is this something you bought as an upgrade? I really like the look as opposed to the standard mounting I was going to do on top of the rear panel. Thanks.

The battery box is an upgrade from FF Metal.

http://www.ffmetal.com/batteryboxpage.html

[Olddragger]

Papa---been lurking here for a little.....I have been contemplating buying a mk4 already built and then modifying to my wants, but threads like yours is giving me pause. It does remind me of the bonding you get from building your own--- and in my case--no matter how long it takes...it could be more satisfying than driving it. Decisions, decisions !
Thanks for sharing all this.
I know---buy one and then build another, right?
----Hey Honey can I buy 2 Cobras? Now Honey put that bat down, I don't like that look on your face--- Honey----Honey-- whew---thanks kids that was a good tackle! I will be back later with lots of chocolate and dinner reservations !
Maybe that wasn't a good idea.......?

[Papa]

Papa---been lurking here for a little.....I have been contemplating buying a mk4 already built and then modifying to my wants, but threads like yours is giving me pause. It does remind me of the bonding you get from building your own--- and in my case--no matter how long it takes...it could be more satisfying than driving it. Decisions, decisions !
Thanks for sharing all this.
I know---buy one and then build another, right?
----Hey Honey can I buy 2 Cobras? Now Honey put that bat down, I don't like that look on your face--- Honey----Honey-- whew---thanks kids that was a good tackle! I will be back later with lots of chocolate and dinner reservations !
Maybe that wasn't a good idea.......?

Okay, now that I can breathe again after laughing for the last ten minutes! I also contemplated buying a completed car. This was mostly a financial concern as building can, and in my case will exceed what I could have bought a completed car for. The issue I was having was that buying a hand-built car from someone who you don't know can lead to plenty of concerns over how well the car was built. At least when I eventually get behind the wheel of my car, I'll know exactly what I'm driving. And, when it comes time to start going to car shows or club events, I'll be able to say, "I built it!"

Have a great day,
Dave

[Papa]

Didn't do much today, waiting on parts to arrive. I did come up with a way to adjust my clutch pedal to be more aligned with the brake pedal. The built-in adjuster is impossible to get at, even with the DS foot box still open, so I improvised. I screwed on a nut to the end of the existing adjustment bolt and then made a short stud from another bolt to get the pedal where I want it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84651&d=1524441717

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84652&d=1524441725

I also had the privilege of meeting another forum member (DenverSteve) that is in my local area and got to show him and his wife my project.

[barry sheen]

Spent most of the day reading this (and referenced links) from page 1 have to say its been fascinating, entertaining and very informative. Definitely taken a lot of the mystery and fear out of a build for someone who has never attempted a project this big. Can't thank you enough for providing this information. Looking forward to the final chapter.

Best

Barry.

[Papa]

Spent most of the day reading this (and referenced links) from page 1 have to say its been fascinating, entertaining and very informative. Definitely taken a lot of the mystery and fear out of a build for someone who has never attempted a project this big. Can't thank you enough for providing this information. Looking forward to the final chapter.

Best

Barry.

Barry,

Thank you very much for the comments. This is exactly the way I felt reading through other's threads as I was deciding if I was ready to tackle this project. I hope you will choose to build your own MK-IV or any other FFR car for yourself. It has been and continues to be a very rewarding experience. Even when I get stumped and frustrated, I know I can turn to the many knowledgeable people on this forum and get answers to my questions within minutes! Best of luck, and dive in! The water's fine.

Dave

[Papa]

I received my new Lokar throttle cable and thought I'd share a picture of the clevis portion that will attach to the throttle pedal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84653&d=1524441822

I'll get this installed today or tomorrow, but now I won't have to worry about the cable coming free from the pedal when I'm at the top of the Continental Divide, a hundred miles from home.

[Papa]

I just finished replacing the kit-provided throttle cable with the Lokar piece and it fit perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84654&d=1524441909

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84655&d=1524441916

Does anyone know of a bracket I could install via the valve cover bolts that would allow me to secure the throttle cable rather than having it just lay there? If not, I may try to make something myself; perhaps as simple as using a couple of cushion clamps.

I also installed the engine ground strap.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84656&d=1524441924

[BB767]

Hi Papa. Looks like you are getting close to that first start! Good luck! Hey, on that ground strap, it does not look like you removed the paint under the strap before bolting it on. If i am wrong disregard the note. If I am right, and you have any electrical or starting issues, look here first. Ask me how I know ;). Brien

[barry sheen]

Papa: Your build has inspired me to pencil out some initial "rough" numbers using a similar configuration as yours but using either a Roush 427 SRXE or 427 SR Engine. Including a slush fund for miscellaneous/unforeseen expenses I'm getting $50k to $55k +/- as the magic number. Am I in the ball park? Did you get close to your budget (so far at least) and where (if any) did you choose to compromise vs upgrade and did those choices blow your numbers?

Best

Barry

[Papa]

Hi Papa. Looks like you are getting close to that first start! Good luck! Hey, on that ground strap, it does not look like you removed the paint under the strap before bolting it on. If i am wrong disregard the note. If I am right, and you have any electrical or starting issues, look here first. Ask me how I know ;). Brien

Brien,

I'm getting close, but introduced another delay with my decision to order the Boig Motorsports Cool Tubes for my cooling system. I did remove the powder coat under the strap on the motor mount. I used a small rotary tool to try to keep from making too big of a mess of the area.

Dave

[Papa]

Papa: Your build has inspired me to pencil out some initial "rough" numbers using a similar configuration as yours but using either a Roush 427 SRXE or 427 SR Engine. Including a slush fund for miscellaneous/unforeseen expenses I'm getting $50k to $55k +/- as the magic number. Am I in the ball park? Did you get close to your budget (so far at least) and where (if any) did you choose to compromise vs upgrade and did those choices blow your numbers?

Best

Barry

Barry,

What I did was probably very similar to how you arrived at your project estimate. I priced the complete kit with all my selected options (don't forget freight on drop ship items like the rear axel, Willwoods, etc.), priced my engine & trans choice (it was simple with BluePrint, but could be more difficult to come up with a number if you are piecing a system together yourself), got a quote for body and paint, added in all my planned modifications and outside purchases, and finally added a 10% margin for incidentals. There are a ton of variables when doing these cars, but a good plan is the first step. As you proceed, you may change your mind on some items and add things you hadn't thought about. For me, that's all been covered by my 10% margin so far. Most guys don't like to talk specific numbers, but your estimate is certainly a reasonable build budget. Another thing I did was to break down the project into phases and allocate budget by phase. This way it was easier to plan out the budget since I knew I didn't need to have body and paint dollars until around 9-12 months into the build. I hope this is helpful, but feel free to send me a PM if you want to discuss something more specific.

Dave

[barry sheen]

Barry,

What I did was probably very similar to how you arrived at your project estimate. I priced the complete kit with all my selected options (don't forget freight on drop ship items like the rear axel, Willwoods, etc.), priced my engine & trans choice (it was simple with BluePrint, but could be more difficult to come up with a number if you are piecing a system together yourself), got a quote for body and paint, added in all my planned modifications and outside purchases, and finally added a 10% margin for incidentals. There are a ton of variables when doing these cars, but a good plan is the first step. As you proceed, you may change your mind on some items and add things you hadn't thought about. For me, that's all been covered by my 10% margin so far. Most guys don't like to talk specific numbers, but your estimate is certainly a reasonable build budget. Another thing I did was to break down the project into phases and allocate budget by phase. This way it was easier to plan out the budget since I knew I didn't need to have body and paint dollars until around 9-12 months into the build. I hope this is helpful, but feel free to send me a PM if you want to discuss something more specific.

Dave

Yes this helps flesh it out... and will do.
Best
Barry

[TexasAviator]

I'm halfway to Colorado Springs for Christmas. I may come by tomorrow and check out the car if you are not busy with family...

[Papa]

I'm halfway to Colorado Springs for Christmas. I may come by tomorrow and check out the car if you are not busy with family...

Tomorrow should be cool. Just give me a shout ahead of time to make sure the wife doesn't have any last minute plans.

Dave

[Papa]

I started finalizing the power distribution and location of my FAST ECM. I decided to mount the ECM in the engine compartment as FAST indicates this is acceptable and it gave me the room behind the dash I needed for the bus bar. Here are a couple of quick pictures:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84657&d=1524442066

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84658&d=1524442074

This location also provides easy access for the O2 sensor to the passenger side collector on the side pipes, which is where BluePrint wants the sensor. GAS-N is sending my headers and the front pieces of the side pipes so I can mark the O2 sensor location and then return the collectors to have the pipes finished.

I mounted the bus bar behind the glove box and routed all the power lead wires back inside the car, which makes for a much cleaner firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84659&d=1524442084

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84660&d=1524442093

Now I just need to figure out how to pass the main battery cable into the car and back out to the starter without making a mess. I'm seriously considering a bulkhead power post like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012F934OM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A7CDZ7PLP7LQY&psc=1

Next I'll wire up the ignition relay and run the wires for that.

[BB767]

Brien,

I'm getting close, but introduced another delay with my decision to order the Boig Motorsports Cool Tubes for my cooling system. I did remove the powder coat under the strap on the motor mount. I used a small rotary tool to try to keep from making too big of a mess of the area.

Dave

Good decision on the pipes, I did exactly the same thing, much cleaner look. You also ended up mounting the XFI very close to where mine is. Our engine bays could be twins!

[Papa]

Good decision on the pipes, I did exactly the same thing, much cleaner look. You also ended up mounting the XFI very close to where mine is. Our engine bays could be twins!

Thanks again for all your help getting me straightened out on the EFI wiring. I owe you a beer if you ever get to Denver with some free time on your hands.

Dave

[Higgybulin]

That engine compartment is very clean!! Great job!

[Papa]

That engine compartment is very clean!! Great job!

Thank you!

[BB767]

Thanks again for all your help getting me straightened out on the EFI wiring. I owe you a beer if you ever get to Denver with some free time on your hands.

Dave

I would love to do a road trip out there someday. You show me some of your favorite mountain drives for the roadster and I'll buy you a beer!

[Papa]

I would love to do a road trip out there someday. You show me some of your favorite mountain drives for the roadster and I'll buy you a beer!

You're on! Although, you have some pretty nice mountain drives just off your doorstep as well. I used to do a lot of backpacking in Desolation Wilderness area, a bit further up Highway 50 from Placerville. A cruise around Lake Tahoe would be a blast in the roadster. Then there's Yosemite or go west for the redwoods and Highway 1 along the coast. The drive between Eureka to Fort Bragg would be incredible!

[Papa]

My Boig Motorsports Cool Tubes were delivered last night and first thing this morning I installed them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84666&d=1524442443

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84667&d=1524442454

I'm very happy with the look and quality of the parts! I do have a question about the height of the filler. Right now it is above the top of the chassis tubes. Do I need to lower it at all?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84668&d=1524442463

I also installed the FFR provided overflow tank. Look - matching caps!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84669&d=1524442470

I also added some chafe protection to my power steering lines in the form of some 3/4" heater hose.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84670&d=1524442477

[RJD]

Papa,
Just catching up on your thread. Regarding the Breeze radiator shroud, in addition to the radiator shroud and the lower radiator support, did you also use the heavy duty mounting kit - part #70558 at Breeze? Thank you.

[Papa]

Papa,
Just catching up on your thread. Regarding the Breeze radiator shroud, in addition to the radiator shroud and the lower radiator support, did you also use the heavy duty mounting kit - part #70558 at Breeze? Thank you.

I did not. I installed riv-nuts in the mounting bars and used stainless hardware to mount it. I also purchased the upper radiator cover from Breeze that I'll install after the body is in place.

Dave

[RJD]

I did not. I installed riv-nuts in the mounting bars and used stainless hardware to mount it. I also purchased the upper radiator cover from Breeze that I'll install after the body is in place.

Dave

Thanks. Appreciate your detailed posts. Have a happy new year.

[Papa]

I completed my main electrical today. I was going to run a pass-through terminal in the firewall, but ended up going a different route (no additional holes in the firewall). I ran the main battery cable directly to the starter, and then another 4 awg. wire from the starter to the buss bar. All the other power leads connect to the buss bar as planned. I also wired in the relay for the starter wire. Tomorrow I plan to add all my fluids and prime the engine's oiling system per BluePrint's directions (essentially using the starter to turn the engine over with no fuel or spark until there is oil pressure reading on the gauge). All I need now to start the car are my headers, which I expect to arrive any day now.

[cgundermann]

My Boig Motorsports Cool Tubes were delivered last night and first thing this morning I installed them.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4589/27560399009_344e206ed1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HZqfrg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4599/27560398399_0277a8019f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HZqffK)

I'm very happy with the look and quality of the parts! I do have a question about the height of the filler. Right now it is above the top of the chassis tubes. Do I need to lower it at all?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/27560399509_b4640e764c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HZqfzT)

I also installed the FFR provided overflow tank. Look - matching caps!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4730/27560395299_731e1e1e8f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HZqeki)

I also added some chafe protection to my power steering lines in the form of some 3/4" heater hose.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/27560393419_0c92f017a4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HZqdLT)

Your filler cap looks like it will hit your hood. I just popped my hood and my filler neck is several inches below the top rail. Looking at the hood open & closed, that top frame rail looks like a good limiter to stay beneath. Should be able to cut some of your rubber radiator tube at the engine neck to drop it down.

Those tubes look beautiful!

Chris

[Papa]

Your filler cap looks like it will hit your hood. I just popped my hood and my filler neck is several inches below the top rail. Looking at the hood open & closed, that top frame rail looks like a good limiter to stay beneath. Should be able to cut some of your rubber radiator tube at the engine neck to drop it down.

Those tubes look beautiful!

Chris

Chris,

That's what I suspected. I'll trim some off of the 90 degree rubber and that should get me where it needs to be.

Thanks,
Dave

[Papa]

Well, I'm just waiting for my headers to get here to attempt first start. In the mean time, here is what was accomplished today:

1. Adjusted the radiator filler to get it below the chassis tubes so the hood will close.
2. Filled the engine with oil.
3. Filled the power steering pump with fluid.
4. Filled the radiator with 50/50 mix antifreeze. Found one small leak at the bottom of the overflow and fixed that.
5. Pulled the plug off the fuel pump, pulled the spark plugs, and cranked the starter until I had oil pressure per BluePrint's directions.
6. Changed the clutch pedal adjustment bolt out for a longer bolt instead of the Band-Aid I'd done a couple of days ago.
7. Tidied up the engine wiring (removed all the harness labels and did some bundling and tying up any loose wires)
8. Ordered a stainless steel button/switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D0XK5W2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to replace the black plastic horn button that came with the kit.

My EFI will control the fan via the RF fan relay. Do I need to do anything special with the fan power and ground wires, or do I just plug them in?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84671&d=1524442642

I used the top-side fan thermo-control wire to tie into my EFI, so do I just wrap up the second control wire at the fan connection? I know some guys wire in a manual override for the fan. I assume if I wanted to do the same, I would just need to tie a ground to one side of the switch and the other side to this control wire?

Once my headers get here, it should just be a matter of getting them on and adding a couple of gallons of fuel and lighting this puppy up! Since I won't have my Gas-N side pipes yet, I'm probably going to install the FFR pipes for go-karting. Should I treat them with some high-temp paint before using them?

[edwardb]

Sounds like your EFI unit is making the ground connection for the fan relay? Similar to what an engine thermo sensor would do. So no, nothing special for the fan motor. Connect the power and ground to the fan as normal. Yes, you could add a manual override using the second fan control wire, and ground with a switch as you say. I've installed a manual override a couple times, but in practice found that I rarely used it. I have, however, installed an indicator light on my builds. Wired in parallel to the fan. Fan powered on = indicator light on. Between watching the water temp gauge and the fan light going on and off, able to verify all is working properly. But the water temp gauge alone is probably enough when you get right down to it.

No reason to put anything on those pipes. You can run them bare steel no problem. Assuming since you're installing those Gas-N's (good choice) you'll sell the stock pipes? You won't get a fortune for them, but in my experience they sell pretty easily. Especially if new or like new. I suspect they would be easier to sell if left plain.

[Papa]

Hi Paul,

Yes, the EFI provides negative control for both the fan and fuel pump. I think I may forgo the manual switch, but I do like the idea of a light to tell me when the fan is running. I may follow your lead on that one. I do plan to sell the FFR pipes once my Gas-N's are installed. I just wasn't sure if they would start to rust up without something on them, although it will be easier to clean them up if they aren't coated.

Thanks for the help and I'll be following your new build. I have no plans to build one, but I learned so much reading through your last build that I can't wait to see what tricks you'll be sharing with the new one!

Dave

[Papa]

Still no headers. :( I sent Georgie an e-mail asking for a tracking number so I can see where they are. They were supposed to ship nearly two weeks ago.

Today I added a relay and power to my coil. I hadn't realized I needed to add that until today. I also secured my throttle cable via a pair of stainless steel standoffs and some longer bolts. I think it looks better than just having it lay wherever it wanted to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84672&d=1524442724

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84673&d=1524442733

[TexasAviator]

don't feel bad I am still waiting on door latches from 3/months ago

[DenverSteve]

Didn't do much today, waiting on parts to arrive. I did come up with a way to adjust my clutch pedal to be more aligned with the brake pedal. The built-in adjuster is impossible to get at, even with the DS foot box still open, so I improvised. I screwed on a nut to the end of the existing adjustment bolt and then made a short stud from another bolt to get the pedal where I want it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4729/27406162469_999f48d940_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HKMKhz)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4636/27406164289_17d6422058_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HKMKPX)

I also had the privilege of meeting another forum member (DenverSteve) that is in my local area and got to show him and his wife my project.

Dave,

Thanks so much for taking the time to share your car and some of your stories. Your build is really amazing and quite the inspiration. I'm sure it won't be the last time we meet! ;-) Just finalized my order yesterday for my production complete date of Jan 13, 2018. Can't wait for the delivery and getting started. Spending tons of time now cleaning up donor parts and organizing/cleaning my garage.

Thanks,

Steve

[DenverSteve]

Still no headers. :( I sent Georgie an e-mail asking for a tracking number so I can see where they are. They were supposed to ship nearly two weeks ago.

Today I added a relay and power to my coil. I hadn't realized I needed to add that until today. I also secured my throttle cable via a pair of stainless steel standoffs and some longer bolts. I think it looks better than just having it lay wherever it wanted to.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4732/39377751041_e4dd239da2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22ZFgu6)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4680/39377749141_1e26519db6_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22ZFfVk)

Sexy! I love the look.

[Papa]

I tried my hand at doing Weatherpack connectors today. I wanted to have a better fan connector than what was there, so here it is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84674&d=1524442841

I also tied those wires up so they aren't hanging down waiting to get hooked on something and torn off.

I went ahead and included the fan thermo wire into the connector in case I ever want to use it later on.

I also installed and wired the horns.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84675&d=1524442850

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84676&d=1524442857

I got word that my headers should be delivered on Tuesday. They got lost in the holiday shuffle and sat on the dock for a week after they were supposed to have shipped. I'm not very happy about it, but there's nothing I can do but wait now.

[Papa]

The big brown truck pulled up and delivered my headers! After installing them and hanging the side pipes with HVAC hanger strap, I went over my pre-start checklist and got a successful first start on the first turn of the key!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HS-T5ODCc0o

[tmmski]

Congrats on the first start - your build thread is great.
your motor sounds friggin great. (I hope to turn the key tomorrow.....)

Happy new year.

Tim

[broku518]

Wonderful sound and congratulations on hard work! Huge milestone.

[cgundermann]

Awesome! Congrats/sounds nasty - happy for you!

Chris

[BB767]

Nice job Dave! Looks and sounds strangely familiar!

[wareaglescott]

Well that escalated quickly!
Went from disappointment that the headers would not be there until Tuesday at 12:31 to pure elation of the first start by 4:57! Congrats. It sounds great and fired right up like a champ! Looks like a nice day there. Time for a go cart :)

[Papa]

Thanks for all the encouraging comments! I couldn't believe it when the headers showed up. I immediately installed them and then more excitement when the engine started on the first try. That definitely wouldn't have happened without the help from everyone that got me through my issues with the EFI electrical. Thank you all! On another note, I also got my new horn button installed today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84677&d=1524442978

Tomorrow I may try a go-kart!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congrats Dave :)

BTW, used that same horn button on a customer build a couple of years ago!

Jeff

[Mark Eaton]

That is awesome Dave! You are really flying along.

Mark

[Papa]

Dave,

Thanks so much for taking the time to share your car and some of your stories. Your build is really amazing and quite the inspiration. I'm sure it won't be the last time we meet! ;-) Just finalized my order yesterday for my production complete date of Jan 13, 2018. Can't wait for the delivery and getting started. Spending tons of time now cleaning up donor parts and organizing/cleaning my garage.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve,

Sorry for not responding sooner. It was really nice meeting you and your wife last week. I also saw your post regarding a body buck. I see you found one. I'd offer you mine, but it's still going to be a while before I'm ready to put the body on the car. Good luck with your build and don't hesitate to give me a shout if you need a hand.

Dave

[GoDadGo]

What A Way To Ring In The New Year!

.Congratulations!

[japollon]

Great work Dave! I'm very jealous! Joel

[Boydster]

Doesn't that 427 sound nice? Congratulations!!

[Papa]

Doesn't that 427 sound nice? Congratulations!!

It's only a 427 wanna-be, Boyd. It's a 347 with 427 valve covers, but it does sound angry!

[RJD]

Congratulations! What a way to wrap up the old year.

[Papa]

I found a couple of issues on second start that I'll need to work through. First is a pretty noticeable exhaust leak on the driver's side. That probably explains the occasional pop I was hearing. I'll pull it off and try to make the gasket again (copper rtv), but it looks like the flange may not be 100% flat. I may need to do some grinding/sanding. Second, the coolant looks filthy already. There was likely some water in the block from the dyno runs that Blueprint did and then the engine sat for several months after that before yesterday's start. Wal-Mart has Prestone 50/50 for $8.88 a gallon.

The ECM is throwing a fault code (rapid flashing LED on the ECM). I'm sure it's just because the O2 sensor isn't installed, but I may try to figure out how to get my laptop hooked up and make sure that's all it is.

Oil pressure is at about 60 psi and water temp was hovering between 78 and 82 degrees Celsius after the thermostat opened and the fan was cycling. I hadn't even realized that my water gauge wasn't Fahrenheit until I started the car.

Back to the garage to tinker; I still can't get this silly grin off my face!

[Straversi]

Congratulations! Love it.
-Steve

[TexasAviator]

congrats on the first start papa. What a great job! I am sorry I haven't come to see it yet, we are skiing winter park and celebrating the new year in a big adventure. Got to love Colorado!

[Papa]

congrats on the first start papa. What a great job! I am sorry I haven't come to see it yet, we are skiing winter park and celebrating the new year in a big adventure. Got to love Colorado!

No problem at all; sounds like you are enjoying your leave. I'm back to the grind tomorrow - got to pay the bills. Safe travels back to Texas.

Dave

[Papa]

I got a call back from Georgie at Gas-N this morning. He's going to have a set of 351 headers made up with the proper flanges and will be sending those out to me. Evidently, BluePrint's 347 uses a 302 block, but 351 heads.

[Yama-Bro]

Awesome! I was out all last week on vacation and didn't check the forum while I was gone. It was a nice treat to see your post when I got back to work. Congrats! I'll share this with the BPE team.

[BluePrintEngines]

Sounds Great Buddy! video is making its way around the blueprint building this morning! congrats!

[rrrose]

Greatness, congrats Dave.
Ron

[Papa]

Awesome! I was out all last week on vacation and didn't check the forum while I was gone. It was a nice treat to see your post when I got back to work. Congrats! I'll share this with the BPE team.


Sounds Great Buddy! video is making its way around the blueprint building this morning! congrats!

Thanks guys! I appreciate the support from both Frank and Johnny over the last couple of weeks.

[Papa]

Greatness, congrats Dave.
Ron

Thanks, Ron. You definitely had a hand (two actually) in making this happen! Hope you are doing well and just give me a call whenever you need a hand or two yourself.

Dave

[mlewis]

I had planned to start running my brake lines today, but I'm still missing a few things for that task. So, I mounted the reservoir and connected the master cylinders with the CNC supplied hoses.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/36252066035_81ea34bb9c_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xetjei)

Then I did some testing to see how much movement of the rear axle would be required to contact the FF Metal battery box and decided that if I actually articulated the rear axle as much on either side to cause contact that I'd likely be in much worse trouble with the car than a dent in the battery box. So, with that said I went ahead and mounted the box and cut out the opening in the trunk floor. That's all I had in me today.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4321/36252065215_7a2492a9bb_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XetiZa)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/36252067425_20ec3f38bf_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XetjDg)

Papa,

Love the thread. Sorry to jump back, but wondering where you got your battery box ?

Thanks,

Mark

[Papa]

Papa,

Love the thread. Sorry to jump back, but wondering where you got your battery box ?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark,

The box is from FFMetal. http://www.ffmetal.com/batteryboxpage.html

Dave

[mlewis]

Excellent.

Thanks !!

By the way big congrats on the first start !

Just ordered my coyote, so I have a bit to go before that milestone. In the meantime, I'll keep stalking your thread.

Mark

[Tex2131]

Congratulations on the first start Dave! I have been following your progress since last June and you have done a great job on your build.

My complete kit is scheduled to show up on Jan 14 and an EFI 427 Windsor and TKO package from Blueprint should get here mid March according to Johnny.

I went to the Build School last month and with what I learned there, plus your thread and the outstanding support from other forum members, I am ready to tackle this bad boy.

Don

[Papa]

Congratulations on the first start Dave! I have been following your progress since last June and you have done a great job on your build.

My complete kit is scheduled to show up on Jan 14 and an EFI 427 Windsor and TKO package from Blueprint should get here mid March according to Johnny.

I went to the Build School last month and with what I learned there, plus your thread and the outstanding support from other forum members, I am ready to tackle this bad boy.

Don

Don,

It does my heart good to know that this complete novice builder's thread is helping someone! I've learned a ton from reading other build threads and asking questions when I just need that extra nudge to get me past a problem. Good luck with your build. Waiting those last few days, especially after the car is on the truck and heading your way is agonizing (in a good way).

Dave

[Papa]

Today I worked on a couple of things. First, I drilled the bolt holes for the roll bars. I'm using the Tangent system to attach my rear leg to the main bar, so I didn't drill the bottom rear leg holes yet. I figure I'll do those once the bars are installed for good. I'm concerned if I drill them now that the holes won't line up exactly the same later on. I drilled the holes using three different size bits using my angle head drill and some tap fluid to keep the bits from burning up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84678&d=1524443126

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84679&d=1524443135

After that task was done I installed all the trunk aluminum and the cockpit rear wall. I pulled the wires for the license plate light through the double-wall section.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84680&d=1524443144

I installed the access covers for the fuel sender and pump using rivnuts and button head stainless screws. I plan to carpet the trunk, so these covers will get covered and installed so I can still get at the components below. The same for the battery cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84681&d=1524443152

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84682&d=1524443166

Now that the back wall is in the cockpit, I plan to get my Breeze seat mounts installed next week. She's starting to look pretty good and my shelves are clearing off quickly. I hope to be ready for paint around March.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84683&d=1524443176

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking great Dave! What seats are you using? I always caution to wait until you can test fit them with the body on...even the lowbacks can collide with the back corner of the cockpit opening where it curves around just behind the doors.

Jeff

[Papa]

Looking great Dave! What seats are you using? I always caution to wait until you can test fit them with the body on...even the lowbacks can collide with the back corner of the cockpit opening where it curves around just behind the doors.

Jeff

Jeff,

I have the leather roadster seats from FFR. I figured I'd set up the mounts with the seat about an inch from the back wall at it's furthest position. That would give me three inches of forward adjustment with the Breeze mounts. Is the issue you described a front-to-rear issue or a side-to-side issue?

Dave

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff,

I have the leather roadster seats from FFR. I figured I'd set up the mounts with the seat about an inch from the back wall at it's furthest position. That would give me three inches of forward adjustment with the Breeze mounts. Is the issue you described a front-to-rear issue or a side-to-side issue?

Dave

Combination of both kinda'. The critical area is indicated by the arrow.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78820&d=1515376054

Additionally you don't want them so far outboard that they crowd being able to easily reach the door latch. The Mk4 in the pic is one that I built a few years ago and has the lowbacks that were standard at the time---since then FFR has began using exclusively what they used to refer to as their "big and tall" seats which are a bit wider and higher. Sounds like you plan to use adjustable sliders that will raise the seat further and exacerbate the situation. If you decide to mount them before testing with the body on it would be prudent to be sure that the seats hug the tunnel.

Jeff

78820

[Papa]

Combination of both kinda'. The critical area is indicated by the arrow.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78820&d=1515376054

Additionally you don't want them so far outboard that they crowd being able to easily reach the door latch. The Mk4 in the pic is one that I built a few years ago and has the lowbacks that were standard at the time---since then FFR has began using exclusively what they used to refer to as their "big and tall" seats which are a bit wider and higher. Sounds like you plan to use adjustable sliders that will raise the seat further and exacerbate the situation. If you decide to mount them before testing with the body on it would be prudent to be sure that the seats hug the tunnel.

Jeff

78820

Got it. The Breeze mounts have a slight tilt to them that leaves the rear of the seat at the original height and the front is raised about an inch or so. I'll go ahead and wait until I get the body on to be safe. I don't want to be drilling any extra holes in the floor!

Thanks,
Dave

[Higgybulin]

Just watched the video, the exuberant yell when you stepped out of the **** pit said it all!!!! Keep up on the posting, your kicking butt!!

[Papa]

As I get closer to completing my MK4, I'm agonizing over color selection. I want blue with white stripes, but want it somewhat unique at the same time. I thought I was settled on BMW's Carbon Black until I saw BMW's Azurite Black. It is bluer in the light than the Carbon Black. What do you guys think?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84684&d=1524443359

[Straversi]

I'm thinking dark blue and white myself. As the blues get really dark, the contrast with white gets harder to pull off, to my eye at least. I think a dark silver like stainless steel stripe would go with that darker blue. This is a totally personal decision so I hate to even give an opinion.

There was a dark blue Porsche in my office parking lot. I was holding a white piece of paper near it while trying to take a photo. The owner came out with a glare. He thought I was leaving him a note after hitting his car. When I told him what I was doing he laughted and we layed out some paper on his hood mocking up a stripe and took photos.

I do Like the color of that BMW. Not trying to talk you off of it at all. Find a way to put something white up against it. The Porsche had a little too much purple. They white paper helped show it.

I'm still trying to figure it out myself.

-Steve

[Papa]

I'm thinking dark blue and white myself. As the blues get really dark, the contrast with white gets harder to pull off, to my eye at least. I think a dark silver like stainless steel stripe would go with that darker blue. This is a totally personal decision so I hate to even give an opinion.

There was a dark blue Porsche in my office parking lot. I was holding a white piece of paper near it while trying to take a photo. The owner came out with a glare. He thought I was leaving him a note after hitting his car. When I told him what I was doing he laughted and we layed out some paper on his hood mocking up a stripe and took photos.

I do Like the color of that BMW. Not trying to talk you off of it at all. Find a way to put something white up against it. The Porsche had a little too much purple. They white paper helped show it.

I'm still trying to figure it out myself.

-Steve

Steve,

I wouldn't have asked for opinions if I didn't welcome them! I haven't seen this color in person, but have a friend at my local BMW dealership. I plan to see if he can show me a car with this color on it, although it is a pretty uncommon selection from BMW at a $5,000 upcharge. One of the drawbacks to a color like this would be trying to match it if I ever need a repair. I really like the color in the right light, but may not feel the same way in low light or overcast conditions. My other thought is to go with a brighter blue altogether. Decisions, decisions... :confused:

Dave

[GoDadGo]

Papa Dave,

For the record, if that color looks as good in person as it does in that BMW Pic then how can you not go with it?
Also, there are blacks and there are blacks so make sure that getting touch-up paint is an easy option.
Another thing to consider using a BLACK primer so that minor chips don't stick out like a sore thumb until you touch them up.
In addition, my long in the tooth daily driver has quite a few GRAY rock chips on the hood which was repainted about a decade ago.
That's why my Dart Cobra will be Non-Metallic Torch or Viper Red with a primer that will be tinted red as well so that when it gets rock dings I don't see them as easily.

Steve

Daily Driver Rock Dings Can Be Seen About One Minute Into Attached Video:

https://youtu.be/svZX2BMSDEs

My Kawi-Meanstreak Cruising Scooter Is Black Too So I Do Like Black, But It Is Tough To Keepig Looking Good!

[Papa]

Papa Dave,

For the record, if that color looks as good in person as it does in that BMW Pic then how can you not go with it?
Also, there are blacks and there are blacks so make sure that getting touch-up paint is an easy option.
Another thing to consider using a BLACK primer so that minor chips don't stick out like a sore thumb until you touch them up.
In addition, my long in the tooth daily driver has quite a few GRAY rock chips on the hood which was repainted about a decade ago.
That's why my Dart Cobra will be Non-Metallic Torch or Viper Red with a primer that will be tinted red as well so that when it gets rock dings I don't see them as easily.

Steve

Daily Driver Rock Dings Can Be Seen About One Minute Into Attached Video:

https://youtu.be/svZX2BMSDEs

My Kawi-Meanstreak Cruising Scooter Is Black Too So I Do Like Black, But It Is Tough To Keepig Looking Good!

Great advice on the primer tint. I'll definitely put that on my list of things to discuss with the painter.

[rrrose]

Hey Papa
That is a nice dark blue. I am in Steve's camp on the white stripes with the dark blues though. I spent a number of Sundays visiting dealerships with my white paint sample taking pictures of blue cars. Found the same thing with many of the darker blues. With the white I saw too much purple for my personal taste. As we talked about I decided on the lighter blue with white stripes. It really is similar to the very traditional guardsman blue. Besides I like the name, Long Beach Blue named for the Long Beach Grand Prix.
For the dark colors and I was originally going to go black with black cherry stripes I like the ghost stripe approach, a slightly lightened version of the main body color. Just my preference though.

Here is the main body color I am set on and I sure hope I dont change my mind now I have too many decisions that are all interrelated. :)
79136791377913879139

[rrrose]

Papa Dave,

For the record, if that color looks as good in person as it does in that BMW Pic then how can you not go with it?
Also, there are blacks and there are blacks so make sure that getting touch-up paint is an easy option.
Another thing to consider using a BLACK primer so that minor chips don't stick out like a sore thumb until you touch them up.
In addition, my long in the tooth daily driver has quite a few GRAY rock chips on the hood which was repainted about a decade ago.
That's why my Dart Cobra will be Non-Metallic Torch or Viper Red with a primer that will be tinted red as well so that when it gets rock dings I don't see them as easily.

Steve

Daily Driver Rock Dings Can Be Seen About One Minute Into Attached Video:

https://youtu.be/svZX2BMSDEs

My Kawi-Meanstreak Cruising Scooter Is Black Too So I Do Like Black, But It Is Tough To Keepig Looking Good!

I am so stealing this idea, thanks GoDad.

[Jazzman]

I love the BMW Azurite Black. Stunning. Have you considered a Titanium Ghost strip? I love that Azurite and worry that a bold white or even stainless stripe would distract from it. Or you could follow another fool (me) and forego the stripe entirely. That Azurite really is stunning. It really does stand on it's own. I am glad I didn't see this till after mine was painted. This would have made my decision even more difficult!!

[Papa]

I love the BMW Azurite Black. Stunning. Have you considered a Titanium Ghost strip? I love that Azurite and worry that a bold white or even stainless stripe would distract from it. Or you could follow another fool (me) and forego the stripe entirely. That Azurite really is stunning. It really does stand on it's own. I am glad I didn't see this till after mine was painted. This would have made my decision even more difficult!!

I like the idea of the titanium stripes. They would look great against the Azurite Black!

Something like this sample:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84685&d=1524443457

While searching for more samples, I came across this beautiful example:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84686&d=1524443466

[Jeff Kleiner]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79245&d=1515792858

Here's another for you Dave. Silvers are tough, especially when they have a light base or "back color" as I refer to it. The Lambo titanium has a darker back and is the only one in the silver family that I've ever found that has much life or "pop" (really kinda' hate that term but everybody knows what it means ;))

Cheers,
Jeff



79245

[Papa]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79245&d=1515792858

Here's another for you Dave. Silvers are tough, especially when they have a light base or "back color" as I refer to it. The Lambo titanium has a darker back and is the only one in the silver family that I've ever found that has much life or "pop" (really kinda' hate that term but everybody knows what it means ;))

Cheers,
Jeff



79245

Thanks, Jeff. I'm liking the more bronze'ish - gray titanium than the brighter silver.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84687&d=1524443572

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84688&d=1524443579

It's so hard to tell what a color looks like from a picture.

Dave

[gunbunny]

Papa, I've been following your thread, too. I went to the build school with Don (Tex2131). He's building a complete kit like you, but I'm using a donor (93GT) and going old school 302 with carb. We learned a lot at the school and our class was a solid group with good instructors. I'll keep following your thread. Thanks!
Terry (Gunbunny) (I'm retired AHI Cobra pilot known as Gunbunny)
Albuquerque

[Papa]

Papa, I've been following your thread, too. I went to the build school with Don (Tex2131). He's building a complete kit like you, but I'm using a donor (93GT) and going old school 302 with carb. We learned a lot at the school and our class was a solid group with good instructors. I'll keep following your thread. Thanks!
Terry (Gunbunny) (I'm retired AHI Cobra pilot known as Gunbunny)
Albuquerque

Terry,

Thanks for following. I was Army as well and although not a pilot, I was around helicopters a lot - Air Assault! I always loved the Cobra, even after the Apache came out. The Apache looked intimidating, but the Cobra was lean and mean.

Dave

[Papa]

Not too much exciting to talk about today. I attached the cover on the passenger side F panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84689&d=1524443708

I also spent some time applying Thermo-Tec to the rest of the cockpit:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84690&d=1524443717

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84691&d=1524443726

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84692&d=1524443735

As you can see, I didn't take it all the way up on the rear of the cockpit. I'm undecided if I should or not. I still have another roll, so I can add the remaining pieces later. I also still need to do the outside panel on the driver's foot box that is still uninstalled for now.

Applying the mat is tedious, but a tip for those that are thinking about doing the same. As you make templates for each piece (I used paper from the boxes all the parts shipped in), keep in mind that your template for a panel on one side will likely be mirrored on the other. Just flip the template over and use it to do the other side.

[wareaglescott]

Re templates: The precut carpet pieces make pretty nice templates.

[Papa]

I've decided to do my trans tunnel cover in leather. In order to avoid having to do a lot of prep work or live with lumps and bumps created by the filler panel around the shifter opening, I ordered the FFMetal blank cover and will drill my own opening. When I bought my leather to have my door panels done, I was left with 1/2 a hide, which will be plenty enough to do the tunnel cover and a shifter boot in matching leather. I'm also planning to attach the cover with stainless screws into nutserts along the sides unless there is a better attachment method I should use.

Any recommendations for attaching the FFR padded dash to the frame? I'm considering stainless tap screws with stainless finish washers in the top center, and two on either side of center spaced evenly. I also have three lower braces that I'll rivet to the bottom edge of the dash.

[gunbunny]

Terry,

Thanks for following. I was Army as well and although not a pilot, I was around helicopters a lot - Air Assault! I always loved the Cobra, even after the Apache came out. The Apache looked intimidating, but the Cobra was lean and mean.

Dave

Thanks for your service! Before flight school I served in the USMC and would have been happy wrenching on helicopters. Flying worked out better, cut I missed picking up the tools and helping in maintenance.
Before Cobras, I flew Hueys with troops on board. You all just loved hanging your feet off the edge with the doors pinned back. I got a kick out of it too. Hoorah! Some troopers even jumped out of my perfectly good aircraft. Of course, we were never issued parachutes, if we had a problem we would just autorotate, land and walk over to the treeline and relieve ourselves.
So we are building awesome machines now. I spent careers making some cash and now we can convert that time into some roadsters. Building is already fun with my lift and tools. I've restored corvettes, porsches and Chevrolets, but now I'll create a car. Like I said, I'm going old school for the fun of changing engines, heads, carbs, etc...
You've got some good build info and I'll continue following.
Gunbunny

[JAB]

Looks great , enjoy the build time!

[Papa]

Last week we had blizzard conditions here in Colorado, so I didn't work on the car. Today was a beautiful day and I ventured to the shop and got a couple of small things done. First, I worked on fitting my ********** shifter. I also posted in the main forum in a related thread, but to keep my build thread up I will add some detail here. I drilled the mounting holes out to 3/8" to allow the threaded 3/8" bolts to go through and thread into the shifter stub on the TKO-600. The supplied bolts were too short, so off to my local farm supply to buy some grade 8 3/8"-24 x 1-1/2" bolts. These were the perfect length to attach the shifter to the stub and still have enough length to thread on a nut on the bolts for insurance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84693&d=1524443906

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84694&d=1524443914

Next, I broke out my new FFMetal blank trans tunnel cover and drilled my shifter opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84695&d=1524443921

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84696&d=1524443930

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84697&d=1524443937

I also started laying out my seat heater harnesses and I'm thinking about mounting the switches on the tunnel cover up near the front instead of in the dash as I'd originally thought to do. I'll take some time to ponder before drilling any holes, but if anyone has recommendations for the best location based on your experience I'd love to hear what you have to say.

Last item for today was to contact Georgie (Gas-N) to get an ETA on the replacement headers. He thinks they should be ready to ship this coming week. My side pipes won't be ready until some time in February, but I'm using the FFR pipes for now anyway.

[japollon]

Hey Dave, Why did you choose Thermo-Tec over Dynamat? I'm just curious as I am getting near the stage where I need to insulate. Are both products similar in terms of installation and function?

Thanks, Joel

[GoDadGo]

Are you planning to make the trans tunnel top removable?

[Papa]

Are you planning to make the trans tunnel top removable?

Yes, I want to be able to remove the cover if I ever need to.

[Papa]

Hey Dave, Why did you choose Thermo-Tec over Dynamat? I'm just curious as I am getting near the stage where I need to insulate. Are both products similar in terms of installation and function?

Thanks, Joel

Joel,

I used Thermo-Tec based on what I saw most people using. I really never looked at Dynomat, so I don't know what the differences might be. For reference, I used four 3'x5' rolls of Thermo-Tec insulation. It sells for about $55 per roll, so you can at least get a cost comparison between the products.

Dave

[Paul2STL]

Papa you could mount angle aluminum to the bottom of the tunnel cover and it line up with the 3/4" tube. You would have to get under the car to undo it to take off, but would be a clean look. That is my plan got the idea from Edwardb's build.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79908&d=1517165694
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79907&d=1517165682

[Papa]

I just found these remote latches that I think I can make work. If I do similar to Paul's aluminum on the front edge of the cover to hold it in place, I could then rig up the remote latches at the rear with the release in the trunk. That would be pretty trick!

https://www.mcmaster.com/#remote-action-latches/=1bbrd2j

Dave

[Papa]

I mounted my dash today. I used stainless finish washers with a flange and stainless #10-24 screws into nutserts in the hoop in three locations across the top. I also used the Breeze bottom dash braces along the bottom.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84698&d=1524444094

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84699&d=1524444102

I think I'll use the same approach for the trans tunnel attachment with three screws on either side. As Paul said, no need to overcomplicate things. I've also settled on a mounting location for my seat heater switches and will place thin just in front of the shifter opening near the center of the panel so they aren't under my arm when driving.

[Papa]

As I wrote in my previous post, I decided to mount my seat heater switches in the console. So, I carefully measured where I wanted them to go and then pulled the panel off and drilled my holes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84700&d=1524444222

I then put the panel back on only to realize that there was a cross brace running right under them. :mad: This is why you always check both sides of any panel you are drilling!

So, I got to spend a couple of hours repairing the holes and making new ones. First I riveted a small patch on the bottom side of the panel over the holes. I used flush head rivets and then metal tape to cover the patch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84701&d=1524444230

I then used body filler on the top surface to fill the low spots where the holes were.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84702&d=1524444238

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84703&d=1524444246

It's nice and smooth and ready to take to the upholstery shop to get covered in leather. I also drilled and installed nutserts along both edges that I'll use to attach the cover in place using the same stainless hardware I used to attach the dash to the hoop.

[JoeAIII]

Good to see I am not the only one who uses my garbage can as a makeshift workbench! :)
Good progress, keep it up!

[Straversi]

Bummer. Don’t beat yourself up, though. You are not the first or last to patch a hole or two.
-Steve

[Papa]

Good to see I am not the only one who uses my garbage can as a makeshift workbench! :)
Good progress, keep it up!

I think what this means in my case is that I have too much stuff sitting on my work benches. Time to clean up a bit.

[Papa]

Bummer. Don’t beat yourself up, though. You are not the first or last to patch a hole or two.
-Steve

I've learned not to get upset with my mistakes on this build. I'm just glad it wasn't the dash. That would have been hard to deal with.

[Yama-Bro]

Thanks for the "how to patch an unwanted hole"...I'm sure I'll need that at some point.

[Papa]

We've got some nasty weather rolling in, so I will likely not get much done on the build this weekend. I did drill and fasten four nutserts for the shifter trim ring on my console. I'm considering how I want to attach the dust boot since I have a leather shift boot. Right now I'm considering mounting it from underneath with polyurethane adhesive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84704&d=1524444400

Here is what it looks like on top with my Audi TT shift boot I picked up for under $20.00.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84705&d=1524444409

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84706&d=1524444416

I'll deliver it to the upholsterer on Monday to get it covered. Oh, and my wife surprised me with a set of FF floor mats!

[WIS89]

Dave-

She looks great! You are making good progress in spite of the winter weather. I know how hard that has to be with your attention needing to go elsewhere.

I also like the color you are thinking of! I have always thought that was a classy color!

I look forward to seeing more!! Great progress and quality work!!

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Dave-

She looks great! You are making good progress in spite of the winter weather. I know how hard that has to be with your attention needing to go elsewhere.

I also like the color you are thinking of! I have always thought that was a classy color!

I look forward to seeing more!! Great progress and quality work!!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks, Steve. Not great weather, but it looks beautiful!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84707&d=1524444521

I'd be working on the car except for the fact that I need to have my tractor in the front bay of my shop when it snows. That's where I would normally be working on the MK4.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84708&d=1524444528

[Papa]

I took my tunnel cover to the upholstery shop today along with a picture of edwardb's (thanks, Paul) finished piece. I'm getting a dense pad (~1/8" thick) on the top surface and no padding along the sides where I'll attach the cover using the same hardware I used on the dash hoop. I'm getting the French stitch to match the stitching in the Audi shift boot. I'll post pictures as soon as I pick it up in about a week.

[WIS89]

Dave-

You sure are right about it being beautiful! I loved Parker when I visited, more years ago than I would like to admit. I have to confess though, that I am happy to just look at pictures of that scenery, and stay warm here in the South. I have grown soft!

I look forward to seeing your upholstery work, and the finished interior. Keep up the good work, and thanks for the posts. I have enjoyed watching your progress!

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

What a difference a week makes in Colorado. Today we had beautiful warm weather, so I got the roadster out for its first real go-cart with my wife holding the camera. Sorry about the wind noise, but I was using a cell phone to record this.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpMGROeD41U

[danielt]

Dave,
Great build thread! I really appreciate the pictures of the Boig Cool pipes. I’ve been looking for ones with a high mounted alternator and your pics were perfect and I can order with confidence now!

[Higgybulin]

Congrats on your first lap!!
Higgy

[Papa]

Dave,
Great build thread! I really appreciate the pictures of the Boig Cool pipes. I’ve been looking for ones with a high mounted alternator and your pics were perfect and I can order with confidence now!

I glad that I could help. I really like the Boig Cool Pipes, and I got fantastic customer service during the ordering and purchase process. You won't be disappointed with them.

Dave

[Papa]

Well, my first go-cart resulted in an unexpected $$$ expense. After viewing and listening to the cell phone video of the event, I decided to spring for a GoPro. :cool:

[broku518]

Hi Papa. Question about the rivenuts used to mount your dash. I like the idea, just wondering how did you figured the dash placement? You install the fiberglass body? Or just center the dash and hope for the best?

Thanks
Broku518

[Papa]

Hi Papa. Question about the rivenuts used to mount your dash. I like the idea, just wondering how did you figured the dash placement? You install the fiberglass body? Or just center the dash and hope for the best?

Thanks
Broku518

I positioned my dash (Factory Five padded dash option) so that the steering shaft was centered in the opening then aligned the center top edge with the top of the hoop. I used a small bit to drill through the dash and mark the hoop, then used the larger bit to drill for the nutserts. I used 10-24 stainless screws with stainless finish washers.

Dave

[broku518]

I positioned my dash (Factory Five padded dash option) so that the steering shaft was centered in the opening then aligned the center top edge with the top of the hoop. I used a small bit to drill through the dash and mark the hoop, then used the larger bit to drill for the nutserts. I used 10-24 stainless screws with stainless finish washers.

Dave

Thanks Papa. That is what I was thinking about doing (I have the same dash). I was just worry it wouldn't leave a room for later adjustment, if needed.

[Papa]

Thanks Papa. That is what I was thinking about doing (I have the same dash). I was just worry it wouldn't leave a room for later adjustment, if needed.

With the padded dash, there isn't much you can do in terms of adjustment. Those cutting their own openings have a lot more to consider when mounting their dashes.

Dave

[broku518]

Thanks Dave.

[Papa]

Another go-cart ride today, this time with the new GoPro. Now if I can just get the mount to stay put.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GR2nXBCDPE

[SelectivePC]

Another go-cart ride today, this time with the new GoPro. Now if I can just get the mount to stay put.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GR2nXBCDPE

Awesome man, I cant wait to get to the carting portion of my build, Its going to be so sweet.

[Papa]

Here's one more video from today's go-cart sessions. I passed my first car! Well, the car was actually stopped, but I can dream...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2QTx2EA2KQ

I have a couple of things I'm still sorting out before getting the body on the car.

1. The left rear brake is dragging - you can hear it when I'm applying the brakes to stop. I can freely move the car in spite of the noise, so I'm wondering if I just need to bed in the pads and get some wear on them or if I should try to adjust something.

2. My correct headers will be delivered this Thursday and I'll hopefully eliminate the backfires.

3. The front suspension is settling a bit and I've got a noticeable toe-out on the right side. Need to get that back in line.

4. I need to flush and refill the cooling system with clean coolant.

5. I'm running really rich without the O2 sensor in the exhaust and have fouled a couple of plugs already. My remedy for this until the O2 sensor is installed is just to be sure to get the engine to full operating temperature before shutting it off; no quick start-stop cycles.

Other than that, a final check on all the torqued bolts and I think I can get the body on the car. I do want to roll on some bed liner before it goes on. This is getting exciting!

[Higgybulin]

Great videos!! I'm getting excited for you!!
Higgy

[Papa]

Great videos!! I'm getting excited for you!!
Higgy

Thanks, Higgy. It is an exciting time in the build.

[WIS89]

Dave-

Congratulations on the go karting. I am really excited for you, and know you must be stoked! The car looked and sounded good, and looks like she is handling great.

I forgot how pretty it was out there in Parker! It's been a while, but you sure don't forget how nice it is!

I also have a severe case of garage envy. Just thought I would share that...

By the way, you passed that guy like he was standing still. HAHA

Keep up the good work Sir!

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Dave-

Congratulations on the go karting. I am really excited for you, and know you must be stoked! The car looked and sounded good, and looks like she is handling great.

I forgot how pretty it was out there in Parker! It's been a while, but you sure don't forget how nice it is!

I also have a severe case of garage envy. Just thought I would share that...

By the way, you passed that guy like he was standing still. HAHA

Keep up the good work Sir!

Regards,

Steve

Steve,

I love the area, especially when everything turns green in the late spring - early summer. This time of year is not so attractive with all the brown; so much for "Colorful Colorado". Thanks for the comments on the garage, too. I'm definitely spoiled with the garage space. The house has about 900 square feet (tandem 4-car), and the shop is 1200 square feet. A second building is definitely popular in the neighborhood. Some of the new homes being built are having them built right along with their homes.

Dave

[Scubasommer]

Not too much exciting to talk about today. I attached the cover on the passenger side F panel.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4665/38984275564_2f4478ea79_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22oUAW9)

I also spent some time applying Thermo-Tec to the rest of the cockpit:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/38984274534_44b3a8cc8b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22oUACo)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/38984277234_60fc74b8db_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22oUBqW)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4707/38984278294_e476ed2207_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22oUBKd)

As you can see, I didn't take it all the way up on the rear of the cockpit. I'm undecided if I should or not. I still have another roll, so I can add the remaining pieces later. I also still need to do the outside panel on the driver's foot box that is still uninstalled for now.

Applying the mat is tedious, but a tip for those that are thinking about doing the same. As you make templates for each piece (I used paper from the boxes all the parts shipped in), keep in mind that your template for a panel on one side will likely be mirrored on the other. Just flip the template over and use it to do the other side.

Thanks for the GREAT build threads Papa!!!
I at eating this up as my MK 4 is coming in July!
Love the tips and the links!
Congrats on the awesome go cart rides!!

A sincere thank you
Jimmy

[shark92651]

Rear brake hardline is complete! I had to use one union. :(

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/35567349023_212dc04e47_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WbXXHz)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/35567349773_dc598d0f00_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WbXXWv)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/35567350483_272b907db9_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WbXY9K)

Looks great. Could you tell me what is the name of that spiral product on the outside of your lines on the underside of the frame? I assume that is to offer a bit more protection to the Nicopp line. Looks interesting, thanks!

David

[Tex2131]

Hey Dave, where did you find rubber grommets for your brake reservoir lines going thru the front drivers side wall? I'm having a hard time finding ones that will cover the thickness of the wall. Thanks, Don.

[Papa]

Looks great. Could you tell me what is the name of that spiral product on the outside of your lines on the underside of the frame? I assume that is to offer a bit more protection to the Nicopp line. Looks interesting, thanks!

David

David,

The product you are looking for is called gravel guard. You can find it in various lengths (I used 8') on Amazon for very reasonable prices.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=3%2F16+gravel+guard

Dave

[Papa]

Hey Dave, where did you find rubber grommets for your brake reservoir lines going thru the front drivers side wall? I'm having a hard time finding ones that will cover the thickness of the wall. Thanks, Don.

I got the grommets from McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much any size you could want.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9307k887/=1bsw0a6

Dave

[Tex2131]

[QUTE=Papa;315613]I got the grommets from McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much any size you could want.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9307k887/=1bsw0a6

Dave[/QUOTE]

Thanks Dave. You are my hero, I'm following your build closely and it's given me some great advice, hints, and inspiration.

[Papa]

[QUTE=Papa;315613]I got the grommets from McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much any size you could want.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9307k887/=1bsw0a6

Dave

Thanks Dave. You are my hero, I'm following your build closely and it's given me some great advice, hints, and inspiration.

No problem - happy to help.

Dave

[Papa]

Today I was able to do the coupler nuts on the rear for the body mounts. Starting with some 7/16-14 threaded rod, nylock nuts, washers, and coupler nuts:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84709&d=1524444726

I cut the rod into short lengths that would accommodate the nut without a lot of the rod extending past the end and filling about 1/2 of the coupler nut on the other side. I protected the threads and used vice grips and then threaded on the nylock nut from the back side (not much space in there between the frame and the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84710&d=1524444733

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84711&d=1524444742

Finally, I threaded on the coupler nut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84712&d=1524444752

This whole task would have been easier to do before the fuel tank was installed.

I also got a call on Friday from my upholsterer letting me know my trans tunnel is done. I'll be picking it up this week and will post pictures when I do.

[TexasAviator]

can't wait to see the trans tunnel. Nice work and quick at that!

[Papa]

can't wait to see the trans tunnel. Nice work and quick at that!

Thanks, Brandon. I hope to pick it up tomorrow or Wednesday. Congratulations on the first start!

Dave

[Papa]

I picked up my transmission tunnel cover today. It looks pretty good!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84713&d=1524444900

[TexasAviator]

nicely done

[SirSmartyPants]

I've been lurking here for a little while, and just wanted to say that I'm really enjoying your build thread. When I build my Roadster (some day!) I plan to use the same engine, so all the detail you've provided has been fantastic. The car is looking great!

~ Ron

[Yama-Bro]

That looks great Papa. All the small details are really paying off.

[BluePrintEngines]

Enjoying the videos PAPA! Can't wait to hear that thing opened up a little more!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Papa]

nicely done


I've been lurking here for a little while, and just wanted to say that I'm really enjoying your build thread. When I build my Roadster (some day!) I plan to use the same engine, so all the detail you've provided has been fantastic. The car is looking great!

~ Ron


That looks great Papa. All the small details are really paying off.


Enjoying the videos PAPA! Can't wait to hear that thing opened up a little more!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks fellas! I'm still having fun with the build, but my first couple of tastes of driving the car have me getting excited about getting it finished and on the road. The engine feels so strong yet very streetable. The handling even without a good alignment is amazing and the power steering feels just right.

Dave

[Tex2131]

Aw man.....you've done it again with the upholstered tunnel. More $$$ coming out of my pocket. By the way, I couldn't help but take a small shot at you today. See "This is starting to get serious" posted in the roadster forum today.

[Papa]

Aw man.....you've done it again with the upholstered tunnel. More $$$ coming out of my pocket. By the way, I couldn't help but take a small shot at you today. See "This is starting to get serious" posted in the roadster forum today.

Ha! I've spent more than enough of my money, so I'm happy to help others spend theirs! Awesome engine! By the way, it only cost me $135.00 to have the tunnel cover done.

[Papa]

I installed the seat heater switches into the newly upholstered tunnel cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84714&d=1524445005

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84715&d=1524445013

Now off to the garage to run the rest of the wiring.

[Papa]

Before I start making holes to run the seat heater wires into the trans tunnel, I need to have a good idea where my seats are going to sit with the Breeze seat bracket set. So, I fit the bracket to the seat frame and then primed the metal. Once the primer is completely set, I'll paint them with a satin black enamel. I really like the concept of the Breeze seat mounting system. You get a solid mount without drilling huge holes into the floor of the car. You also get a bit of recline and adjustability of about three inches front to back. It also makes mounting the seat pretty simple with the bolts going through the top of the frame into the mounting system.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84716&d=1524445139

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84717&d=1524445149

I'm not going to mount the bracket to the floor until after the body is on, but with the seat in its approximate location I can drill into the tunnel for the seat heater wires. For those that have used this system, how did you carpet the floor? I'm thinking of carpeting around the mounting plate rather than under it. I'd appreciate any thoughts on the best approach.

Finally, I did a little non-automotive electrical work in the shop today. I converted my 70 watt CFL (G24Q-6) base high-bay fixtures over to E26 base 40 watt (280 watt equivalent) LED bulbs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84718&d=1524445159

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84719&d=1524445167

[David Hodgkins]

I picked up my transmission tunnel cover today. It looks pretty good!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/26793255618_f249c1aec5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GPCrr5)

Not just pretty good, that looks GREAT!

:)

[Scubasommer]

Thank you all for the kind words of encouragement! So, to catch this new thread up, I received my rear axle and Wilwood brakes a couple of weeks ago. I installed the brakes on the axle and replaced the chrome diff cover with the cast cover.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/35755494546_979f1c3521_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtAfPU)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4265/35755490956_6a5ebee40f_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtAeL1)

I also had my grandson "help" me. He installed a lug nut for me and was so proud of himself!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4212/35755500476_3d54800122_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtAhA9)

Last Saturday, the bulk of the kit arrived and my wife and I spent about six hours doing inventory. I found a few missing items and e-mailed Courtnie. She was right on getting the parts ordered for me. I also have several back ordered parts that should hopefully start arriving soon. Today, I got a shipping notification for two boxes coming from FFR.

Papa
In your first post you stated “My car will use a Moser 8.8 3-link rear axle with Wilwood brake upgrade front and back.”
Did you upgrade the brakes through Factory Five and what did you upgrade them to????
I purposely delayed my kit order a couple months cause I was undecided on a few things ( this being one).

Thanks and have a great day
Jimmy

[Papa]

Papa
In your first post you stated “My car will use a Moser 8.8 3-link rear axle with Wilwood brake upgrade front and back.”
Did you upgrade the brakes through Factory Five and what did you upgrade them to????
I purposely delayed my kit order a couple months cause I was undecided on a few things ( this being one).

Thanks and have a great day
Jimmy

Jimmy,

The kit comes with brakes for the front axel, but not the rear. I wanted Wilwood brakes, so the upgrade was for the front (eliminates the standard and delivers the Wilwood), and then a matching set for the rear. I ordered them with my kit from FFR. All you have to do is select the color of caliper you want (red or black) and then pick the type of rear axle you have. If you want black calipers and have a solid rear axle, check the following:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84720&d=1524445294

Note that the Wilwood brakes on the FFR configurator are designed to work with 17" or 18" wheels only. If you plan to run a more vintage 15" wheel and want Wilwood brakes, contact Gordon Levy for options.

Dave

[Papa]

Today I finished painting the Breeze seat mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84721&d=1524445375

I then started running wires for the heaters. I'm using the heater wire from the RF harness as the power source. That feeds two fuses (one for each seat) that then feed the switches. I'm running the power and ground wires in some 1/4" split sleeve and routed the wires along the floor and then up behind the dash. I still need to drill a hole on each side of the trans tunnel to run the heater harness to the switch plugs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84722&d=1524445381

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84723&d=1524445389

After test fitting the trans tunnel cover, I'm seriously considering attaching it with heavy duty Velcro (3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK1AK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)) rather than the screws along the sides that I was originally going to do.

[Papa]

The body went back on today for the first time since the car was delivered last June. Overall, it fit's pretty good. I'll have some additional trimming to do in a couple of spots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84724&d=1524445494

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84725&d=1524445502

[rrrose]

Hi Dave
Your workmanship is great and the car reflects it. Its getting closer and closer to me seeing you driving it around town :)

Ron

[BB767]

Here's one more video from today's go-cart sessions. I passed my first car! Well, the car was actually stopped, but I can dream...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2QTx2EA2KQ

I have a couple of things I'm still sorting out before getting the body on the car.

1. The left rear brake is dragging - you can hear it when I'm applying the brakes to stop. I can freely move the car in spite of the noise, so I'm wondering if I just need to bed in the pads and get some wear on them or if I should try to adjust something.

2. My correct headers will be delivered this Thursday and I'll hopefully eliminate the backfires.

3. The front suspension is settling a bit and I've got a noticeable toe-out on the right side. Need to get that back in line.

4. I need to flush and refill the cooling system with clean coolant.

5. I'm running really rich without the O2 sensor in the exhaust and have fouled a couple of plugs already. My remedy for this until the O2 sensor is installed is just to be sure to get the engine to full operating temperature before shutting it off; no quick start-stop cycles.

Other than that, a final check on all the torqued bolts and I think I can get the body on the car. I do want to roll on some bed liner before it goes on. This is getting exciting!

Hi Dave,

Did you ever get an answer about your dragging brake? I have the exact same symptoms on my right rear. I remember it was very tight on the install. Thinking it will wear in but it would be nice to hear what others have done.

Brien

[Papa]

Hi Dave,

Did you ever get an answer about your dragging brake? I have the exact same symptoms on my right rear. I remember it was very tight on the install. Thinking it will wear in but it would be nice to hear what others have done.

Brien

Brien,

I can rotate the wheels by hand with no problem, so I think I may just need to wear in the pads. For now I'm not going to do anything.

Dave

[Papa]

Hi Dave
Your workmanship is great and the car reflects it. Its getting closer and closer to me seeing you driving it around town :)

Ron

Thanks, Ron. I appreciate the kind words.

Dave

[broku518]

Hi Dave,

I just installed the body today. Not really sure what to look for or do next. I agree, overall the body fits very good.
Please share some hints/tips. Much appreciated!

Martin

[Papa]

Hi Dave,

I just installed the body today. Not really sure what to look for or do next. I agree, overall the body fits very good.
Please share some hints/tips. Much appreciated!

Martin

Martin,

I'm paying close attention to the "Jeffs" on the body fitment advice.

Link to my initial fitting questions thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27790-Initial-Body-Fitting-Questions

The following was taken from another thread:


I don't use the inside spacer tubes and let the trunk lid dictate the final rear distance as one of the last positioning adjustments. Here's my order---

Drop the body over the chassis and send it forward so that the body's door flange is just ahead of the chassis' striker tab as seen here:

83006

If you haven't trimmed back the underside return of the cowl roll you may find that it hits the dash and won't let you get that far forward without doing so.

Once the body is draped on I run lengths of all thread through the body and into the couplers at the rear. These are not tightened yet; they are just holding the tail up.

I then move on to the front to install the QJ bolts and spacers and button them down to locate the nose (makes no difference whether you're using the early split type or the full length tubes).

Next is the windshield and front splash panels.

Now comes the fun part...the doors. Notice that I have not mentioned anything about locking down the body on the underside along the rocker panels. This is where lots of give & take comes into play because you are trying to strike a balance at 4 different places; the upper front of the door where it meets the cowl, the upper rear where it meets the rear cockpit opening, plus the lower front and lower rear. To further complicate things we're dealing with both horizontal as well as vertical interfaces along the upper part of the doors. Adjusting for one invariably affects at least one other. And people wonder why body men drink I've had the best luck adjusting for the door tops first. While dealing with the top area of the doors do not completely ignore the lower door edge's intersection with the main body but keep in mind that the lower body can be moved in/out independently with little to no effect to the upper cockpit openings. On both Mk3s and Mk4s I've found that the passenger door has been easier than the driver's side; once the adjustments were made to get the tops in order it just took a bit of outward movement to the lower body to have it meet the bottom edge of the door. On the other hand with the drivers side once the tops were fitting the bodies had to go in at the lower front corner of the doors and move out a great deal at the rear. I've found that these cars and bodies are quite consistent and one of those constants is that you'll need to push the rocker panel in as far as possible in front of the driver's door and pull it out at the rear. I can assure you that you aren't going to get all 4 corners to meet perfectly but your goal is to get them as close as possible so that they operate without interference and to minimize the bodywork necessary to match contours between the main body and moveable panels.

Once you've accomplished that you lock down the body along the rocker panels and move on to the hood and trunk lid. The Mk4 trunk hinges allow movement in all axis so it's pretty straightforward to get it adjusted on the top and by using the coupler method for the bumper/QJ attachments along with nuts rather than spacers on the backside of the body you can move the valance in or out as necessary to match the bottom edge of the lid by adjusting the nuts on the inside in conjunction with spacer tubes outside. You may find that you need to trim back the rearmost lip of the trunk floor aluminum, and perhaps also the vertical edge of the trunk side aluminum to allow the valance to pull inward to meet the lid. For the hood I leave the hinges just loose enough to allow them to move somewhat freely then close and position it in the hole and get underneath and tighten the nuts.

That's what works for me---your mileage may vary

Jeff


I hope to pull mine back off and start making the first adjustments over the next week or so.

Dave

[cv2065]

You are at this point with 9 months under your build? Great job Papa! I hope to be as expedient and detailed as you are with my build. I'll use yours as a reference staple. Thanks for the detailed thread!

[Papa]

You are at this point with 9 months under your build? Great job Papa! I hope to be as expedient and detailed as you are with my build. I'll use yours as a reference staple. Thanks for the detailed thread!

Thank you. No need to rush through the build as it is probably the best part of the FFR experience. I originally assumed that it would take me two years to build the car, but even as a complete novice, with the help of this forum I've cruised right along. As the end of the year approached, I set a goal to get to first start before the year ended. That artificial goal put a lot of stress on getting it done and after that I decided that I wouldn't set any artificial deadlines. My issue now is that my painter is waiting and has room to do my car and I'm not ready to give it to him. So, if I miss his window, I'll drive it in gel coat until he slows down again.

Dave

[Papa]

Today was spent working on several odds and ends. I completed running the seat heater plugs into the tunnel to connect to the switches.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84726&d=1524445668

Next I positioned my Breeze seat mounts and fastened them to the floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84727&d=1524445676

I settled on using the heavy duty 3M stuff to attach my tunnel cover. It works perfectly!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84728&d=1524445683

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84729&d=1524445690

I did some marking for the body adjustments that I'll be making. I ran a strip of 1/2" tape as a guide and later ran a marker flat against the dash to scribe a line that is a bit more contoured to the dash. I don't want to remove too much material and it's a lot easier to remove it than to add it back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84730&d=1524445697

I took a look at the body at the door striker tabs. I was able to adjust the passenger side to get the body just ahead of the striker tab. but not the driver's side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84731&d=1524445705

Finally, I set the seats in place to see how it all looked.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84732&d=1524445711

[Straversi]

Looking good!
-Steve

[broku518]

Martin,

I'm paying close attention to the "Jeffs" on the body fitment advice.

Link to my initial fitting questions thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27790-Initial-Body-Fitting-Questions

The following was taken from another thread:



I hope to pull mine back off and start making the first adjustments over the next week or so.

Dave

Thanks Papa!
Great instructions of our elders! I don't mean by age, rather the years of working on these complex machines :)

[Scubasommer]

Jimmy,

The kit comes with brakes for the front axel, but not the rear. I wanted Wilwood brakes, so the upgrade was for the front (eliminates the standard and delivers the Wilwood), and then a matching set for the rear. I ordered them with my kit from FFR. All you have to do is select the color of caliper you want (red or black) and then pick the type of rear axle you have. If you want black calipers and have a solid rear axle, check the following:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4786/39862814205_481cc1749b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23JxkS6)

Note that the Wilwood brakes on the FFR configurator are designed to work with 17" or 18" wheels only. If you plan to run a more vintage 15" wheel and want Wilwood brakes, contact Gordon Levy for options.

Dave

Cool Thanks Dave

[Scubasommer]

[QUOTE=Papa;316724]Before I start making holes to run the seat heater wires into the trans tunnel, I need to have a good idea where my seats are going to sit with the Breeze seat bracket set. So, I fit the bracket to the seat frame and then primed the metal. Once the primer is completely set, I'll paint them with a satin black enamel. I really like the concept of the Breeze seat mounting system. You get a solid mount without drilling huge holes into the floor of the car. You also get a bit of recline and adjustability of about three inches front to back. It also makes mounting the seat pretty simple with the bolts going through the top of the frame into the mounting system.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4793/26861936278_219a9edc5e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GVGrNo)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4797/26861935358_c4fbc105db_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GVGrww)

I'm not going to mount the bracket to the floor until after the body is on, but with the seat in its approximate location I can drill into the tunnel for the seat heater wires.

Dave

I like the idea of the Breeze seat brackets...
Question...are you picking up leg room with the brackets being canted slightly backward???
I am 6’-2” and looking to pick up leg room.....without shooting my head over the windshield.
I have on order with my kit the #15599 Leather big and tall version seat set from F5.
Also is this the item from Breeze...#70602 Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats

Thanks for ALL your help
Jimmy

[Papa]

[QUOTE=Papa;316724]Before I start making holes to run the seat heater wires into the trans tunnel, I need to have a good idea where my seats are going to sit with the Breeze seat bracket set. So, I fit the bracket to the seat frame and then primed the metal. Once the primer is completely set, I'll paint them with a satin black enamel. I really like the concept of the Breeze seat mounting system. You get a solid mount without drilling huge holes into the floor of the car. You also get a bit of recline and adjustability of about three inches front to back. It also makes mounting the seat pretty simple with the bolts going through the top of the frame into the mounting system.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4793/26861936278_219a9edc5e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GVGrNo)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4797/26861935358_c4fbc105db_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GVGrww)

I'm not going to mount the bracket to the floor until after the body is on, but with the seat in its approximate location I can drill into the tunnel for the seat heater wires.

Dave

I like the idea of the Breeze seat brackets...
Question...are you picking up leg room with the brackets being canted slightly backward???
I am 6’-2” and looking to pick up leg room.....without shooting my head over the windshield.
I have on order with my kit the #15599 Leather big and tall version seat set from F5.
Also is this the item from Breeze...#70602 Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats

Thanks for ALL your help
Jimmy

Jimmy,

I don't see that these will increase leg room, but they incline ~ 7 degrees to help keep a slight bend at the knee which may help. If your seats have the steel frame, these brackets will work. The bolts that go through the seat frame are 11-1/4" center-to-center (left-to-right).

Dave

[Papa]

It's been several weeks since I last updated my build thread, but there simply hasn't been much real progress to talk about. I've been holding off on making any adjustments to the body of the car while I wait for my final set of headers to arrive.

Today I went out and tried out my new monster torque wrench to check the hub nuts. With my wife applying the brake, I was able to double-check that I had the full 250 ft-lbs. on the nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84750&d=1524448757

I hope to get back into the build in the next couple of weeks.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Today I went out and tried out my new monster torque wrench to check the hub nuts. With my wife applying the brake, I was able to double-check that I had the full 250 ft-lbs. on the nuts.



Indeed, that is a monster! No need for holding the brakes; that nut acts against the spindle ;)

Jeff

[Papa]

Indeed, that is a monster! No need for holding the brakes; that nut acts against the spindle ;)

Jeff

Good point! Regardless, it got my wife involved and behind the wheel for the first time.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Good point! Regardless, it got my wife involved and behind the wheel for the first time.

When my wife gets involved she likes for me to refer to her as "my lovely assistant" :)

Jeff

[Papa]

The GP Headers are back at the manufacturer getting some modifications made to the flange to allow for the plug wires to go on. In the mean time, things are just sitting in a holding pattern. I did start to remove some of the ridges from the mold process today. I did a small area around the fuel filler opening and down the rear of the quarter panel. It sands off pretty easily and I'm just using a small sanding block on the smooth surfaces and loose paper on the tight spots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85114&d=1524950275

[broku518]

The GP Headers are back at the manufacturer getting some modifications made to the flange to allow for the plug wires to go on. In the mean time, things are just sitting in a holding pattern. Id start to remove some of the ridges from the mold process today. I did a small area around the fuel filler opening and down the rear of the quarter panel. It sands off pretty easily and I'm just using a small sanding block on the smooth surfaces and loose paper on the tight spots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85114&d=1524950275

Hi Dave. I don't even bother with it. I guess I am outsourcing this to Jeff :) I am scared to venture in body fitting and paint prep area...
I am considering getting some stickers from Amazon - "Under Construction" and "Student Driver." :p

[Paul2STL]

Dave, your build is coming along nicely. I am right behind you in build progress. Are planning to paint yourself?

[Papa]

Dave, your build is coming along nicely. I am right behind you in build progress. Are planning to paint yourself?

I'm definitely not going to paint it myself, but figured I could get some of the initial prep done by knocking down the ridges from the mold. I'll leave the real bodywork to the professionals.

[Paul2STL]

I'm definitely not going to paint it myself, but figured I could get some of the initial prep done by knocking down the ridges from the mold. I'll leave the real bodywork to the professionals.
I agree, also leaving the paint to the professionals myself.

[Papa]

Progress! I got my headers back from GP Headers with the needed modifications to get my plug wires on. After spending about two hours cleaning off the copper RTV that was used with my first header install, I decided to try some REMFLEX header gaskets along with the Stage-8 header bolts. The headers went on very easily and I remembered to use some anti-seize on the bolts. I tightened them from the center out in three stages with the final torque at ~20 lbs. After I get a couple of heat cycles on them, I'll re-torque and install the locking tabs on the bolts. I also got my O2 sensor installed for the first time and the error codes are gone on the FAST XFI PCM! The side pipes exit very nicely and run parallel to the body with no need for any spacers or wedges. I will need to trim the body where the pipes exit, but that was expected. For now, I'm going to run the raw steel FFR pipes, but have a beautiful set of polished GAS-N pipes ready to install after the car is painted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85404&d=1525487658

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85405&d=1525487671

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85406&d=1525487679

[Jeff Kleiner]

Good to hear that you finally have a good fit! Nice work on the hanger fabrication ;)

Jeff

[Papa]

Good to hear that you finally have a good fit! Nice work on the hanger fabrication ;)

Jeff

You like that? I didn't want to mount the FFR hangers since I'll be installing the GAS-N pipes eventually.

[WIS89]

Dave-

I like the hangers too. As a bonus, it will give your passenger something to do!

Hitting the home stretch now. Keep up the good work!

Regards,

Steve

[Yama-Bro]

Looking good Papa Dave!

[Papa]

Yesterday I spent some time working on body fit. I was able to get the front of the body centered on the hinge mounts. I will need to shave some material to let the body sit naturally around the brake reservoir bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85678&d=1526226098

Once the body was centered, I used tape to mark the larger openings needed for the side pipes to exit without touching the body. I may still be a bit close on the passenger side, but want to get the splash guards in before removing any more material. I'm using a mini-pneumatic belt sander to sand the material down to my new marks. It works great and provides a lot of control; no wandering saw blades!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85677&d=1526226091

Next, I checked the body at the door latch plates and think I'm where Jeff described I should be; just in front of the plate with the edge of the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85680&d=1526226112

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85679&d=1526226105

It's nice to finally be making some forward progress again!