Papa's MKIV Roadster Build - #9115 (Post Grad) - One million + views!!!

[Papa]

I've decided to do a build thread and hope this provides some return to the community on the help that I've already received and know I'll need as my build progresses. My experience with working on cars is pretty limited. I've done normal maintenance and some basic customization and mechanical repairs, but that's about it. So, this build, much like wareaglescott's build, will be from the perspective of the novice builder willing to learn as I go and humbled by the knowledge that is available from the many gracious gurus that are so willing to share their time and experience with us beginners.

My build will be based on a complete kit, now sitting in my shop along with some Factory Five upgrades and a few modifications to the basic "by the book" build. My car will use a Moser 8.8 3-link rear axle with Wilwood brake upgrade front and back. I plan to use BluePrint Engines for the powertrain, having selected their 347 c.i. with EFI and the Tremec TKO 600 transmission.

I will be using my roadster exclusively on the street, no racing. I live in Colorado, and can't wait to someday drive the roadster into the Rocky Mountains for a day trip to Breckenridge or Estes Park (Rocky Mountain National Park) with my lovely wife of nearly 32 years by my side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84461&d=1524416247

Build Thread Table of Contents



Topic
Post Number(s)


Delivery
1


Rear Axle
8


Body & Aluminum Removal
12


Assembly Begins
13


Front Suspension & Brakes
23


Rear Suspension
32


Firewall
42


Pedal Box Assembly
42


Fuel Tank
49


Passenger Footbox
62


Passenger Floor
70


Driver’s Floor & Foot Box
81


Rear Cockpit Aluminum
85


Steering
86


Brake Reservoir
98


FFMetal Battery Box
98


Brake Lines
107


Rolling Chassis
137


Trunk Aluminum
139


Wiring Harness Install
140


Dash Install (Initial)
174


Engine Uncrate
179


Foot Operated Headlight Dimmer Mod
196,517


Electrical Switches
203


E-Brake Cable Install
207


E-Brake Handle
216, 226


Fuel Filter Mount
224


Fuel Lines
233


Wiper Motor Install
249


Engine Install
255


Heater Bypass
280


Seat Heaters
297


Power Steering Lines
306


Electrical Buss Bar
335


Boig Cool Tubes
342


Throttle Cable Mounts
352


Fan & Horn Wiring
356


First Start
357


Drilling Roll Bars
387


Mounting Dash (Final)
418


First Go-Kart
430


Coupler Mod (Retrofit)
454


Trans Tunnel Cover Upholstery
457


Breeze Seat Mounts
466, 664


Body Fit (Rough)
480


Hood Fit (Rough)
513


Hood Hinges/Latches
524


Trunk Lid & Door Fit (Rough)
541


Le Mans Gas Filler
544


License Plate Bracket
561


Tail Light Wiring
582


Headlights
585


EFI Swap from FAST XFI Street to Holley Sniper
618


Side Louvers
639, 687, 731-735


Trunk Carpet
640, 662


Trunk Lid Access Cover
649


12v Power Point
664


Trunk Lid Wiring
667


Driveline Safety Hoop
682


Premium Soft Top
688, 776, 1119


Carpet
693


Body Under Coating
702


Splash Guards
715


Door Strap & Seatbelt Pad Leather Dye
743


Breeze Upper Radiator Panel
755


Door Latches
770


Gap Filler Panels
784


Radiator Aluminum
785


Trunk Gas Struts from Relicaparts (Mike Everson)
796


SDC Self-Cancelling Turn Signals
807


Door Sill Aluminum
826


Gas-N Side Pipes
828


O-Ring Mod for Wheel Spinners
834


Getting Ready to Ship To Jeff Kleiner For Paint
846


At Jeff Kleiner’s For Paint
872, 895, 922, 929, 942, 954, 979, 986


Headed Home After Paint
1007, 1014


Final Assembly
1029, 1044, 1056, 1061, 1067, 1075, 1114, 1118


Getting Legal
1129, 1143, 1183


Ride Height Adjustment
1131


Finished!
1170


Russ Thompson Turn Signal Retrofit
1277


Radiator Replacement and Addition of Breeze Upper Mount
1361


EFI Upgrade - Inglese 8-Stack
1371, 1411


Wheel Spinner Hub Retainers
1394


Inglese 8-Stack and Terminator X EFI Upgrade
1407


Fuel System Contamination Cleanup
1423

[Boydster]

Woohoo! Lookin forward to following. Congratulations and get to work!

[R Thomas]

The start of my build is still off in the future, so I envy you guys that made the commitment. Hope it turns out to be everything you wanted and more.

[Straversi]

That drive from Denver to Breckenridge is what roadsters are made for. Welcome and congratulations.
-Steve

[GoDadGo]

Papa,

Being an Electrical Engineer gives you a huge advantage over a lot of us.
To give you an example, it took me 40 hours to wire my dash.
That's why you never give a wrench to a banker.
Looks Like A Great Combination To Me!

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Look forward to following along!
Wow I am envious of that potential drive in the rockies. Sounds amazing!
My Grandparents and Aunts/Uncles are from the Westminster and Lakewood areas. Spent a ton of time in Denver growing up. Would be amazing to drive the Cobra up in the mountains.

[Yama-Bro]

Good Luck! I'm excited to watch your build progress. You'll have a few months head start on me.

[Papa]

Thank you all for the kind words of encouragement! So, to catch this new thread up, I received my rear axle and Wilwood brakes a couple of weeks ago. I installed the brakes on the axle and replaced the chrome diff cover with the cast cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84462&d=1524416413

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84463&d=1524416429

I also had my grandson "help" me. He installed a lug nut for me and was so proud of himself!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84464&d=1524416437

Last Saturday, the bulk of the kit arrived and my wife and I spent about six hours doing inventory. I found a few missing items and e-mailed Courtnie. She was right on getting the parts ordered for me. I also have several back ordered parts that should hopefully start arriving soon. Today, I got a shipping notification for two boxes coming from FFR.

[WIS89]

Papa-

Little man looks pretty pleased with himself! Where did that red hair come from? Handsome fell right there.

Congrats on starting the build. You are really going to love it. It is both enjoyable and rewarding, and I think you will have a terrific time.

I look forward to following along with your build thread.

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Papa-

Little man looks pretty pleased with himself! Where did that red hair come from? Handsome fell right there.

Congrats on starting the build. You are really going to love it. It is both enjoyable and rewarding, and I think you will have a terrific time.

I look forward to following along with your build thread.

Regards,

Steve

My mother, wife, and two daughters are all redheads (Lord help me)! Today I will be removing the hood, doors, and trunk and marking the aluminum in preparation to remove the body.

[KDubU]

Very nice! Ah, your garge is too clean. :D

[Papa]

Lots of progress today! I got the body off the chassis and onto the buck and into the eventual parking space for the finished car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84465&d=1524416674

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84466&d=1524416683

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84467&d=1524416691

After marking and documenting the aluminum panels, I removed everything down to the bare chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84468&d=1524416697

Finally, I drilled the F-Panels and cleco'd them into position. Now I need to decide how I want to finish them before permanently riveting them and starting on the front suspension.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84469&d=1524416704

[2FAST4U]

Congrats! Welcome to the madness

[R Thomas]

I'm thinking the reason the F-panel riveting shows up very early in the manual has to do with lack of familiarity. It's much more likely a foreign process to most that tackle the assembly. As to permanent or not the picture shows some mounting slots that might not be so easily accessible after the rivets are in, so I say no rush.

[BB767]

May I ask where you purchased the axle from? Thx, BB

[Papa]

May I ask where you purchased the axle from? Thx, BB

I ordered it with my kit from Factory Five. It was shipped direct from Moser Engineering. I swapped out the stock chrome diff cover for the cast one shown in the pictures.

[BB767]

Thanks.

[GoDadGo]

I ordered it with my kit from Factory Five. It was shipped direct from Moser Engineering. I swapped out the stock chrome diff cover for the cast one shown in the pictures.

Hey Papa,

Great idea ditching the chrome differential cover and going with the cast piece.
While things like that may look nice at a car show, oil pans included, we all know that they store heat much like a nice shiny silver teapot.
None of us need any extra heat if we intend to really drive our cars so Bravo on ditching that particular piece of chrome.

Steve

PS: I have a Moser Rear as well (TSD-500) because neither F-5 nor Moser were offering the 8.8 units at the time of my order.

[Papa]

Hey Papa,

Great idea ditching the chrome differential cover and going with the cast piece.
While things like that may look nice at a car show, oil pans included, we all know that they store heat much like a nice shiny silver teapot.
None of us need any extra heat if we intend to really drive our cars so Bravo on ditching that particular piece of chrome.

Steve

PS: I have a Moser Rear as well (TSD-500) because neither F-5 nor Moser were offering the 8.8 units at the time of my order.

The chrome cover just looked ... cheap. The cast cover also has the added advantages of both fill and drain ports. Without a fill port on the cover, you would be forced to fill via the vent tube.

[GoDadGo]

The chrome cover just looked ... cheap. The cast cover also has the added advantages of both fill and drain ports. Without a fill port on the cover, you would be forced to fill via the vent tube.

Uggggg!

[Papa]

Uggggg!

Okay -- give the rookie a break. I found the fill port on the axle. :o

[GoDadGo]

Okay -- give the rookie a break. I found the fill port on the axle. :o

I'm A Rookie Too!

[Papa]

More progress today as I began assembling the front suspension. I decided on black bedliner spray for the exposed aluminum panels and scuffed and cleaned the F-panels then sprayed them. They came out really nice and after several hours of drying time, I mounted them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84470&d=1524416932

While they were drying, I addressed some areas on the chassis that were missed when they powder coated it. I used a rust converter and will touch up the uncoated areas with POR15 after the converter is completely set.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84471&d=1524416940

Finally, I got the lower control arms, upper control arms, and front coil overs installed. Please check my work on the uppers as I had to flip the mounting bar to get the proper (I hope) configuration on the pre-assembled arms.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84472&d=1524416948

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84473&d=1524416955

I had to use a large flat screwdriver to wedge the rear upper control arm bolt in order to get it torqued. It was too close to the chassis to get a wrench or socket on it.

Back to work (that pays the bills) tomorrow, so the build will wait for another day off to get back into it.

[Papa]

Papa,

Being an Electrical Engineer gives you a huge advantage over a lot of us.
To give you an example, it took me 40 hours to wire my dash.
That's why you never give a wrench to a banker.
Looks Like A Great Combination To Me!

Steve

Wiring doesn't bother me as long as I have a readable schematic to work from. When I tackled the dash replacement on my 1970 El Camino, I didn't have much to go on, but got it done.

[edwardb]

Looking good. You're off to a great start. One suggestion: For the upper control arms, I'd recommend flipping those attachment bolts. Wherever possible, it's good build practice to always put the head of the bolt on top and the nut on the bottom. In the unlikely event that a nut were to work loose and fall off, the bolt is more likely to stay in the hole and help limit potential damage.

Hopefully also you used Loctite in those upper ball joints. They look pretty clean so thought I would ask. Some have had trouble with them backing out once driving. In addition to Loctite, good practice to put some paint marks on the ball joint side and upper control arm so you can visually monitor if they've moved or not as part of ongoing maintenance.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/th_IMG_3309_zpsdsqswcae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3309_zpsdsqswcae.jpg.html)

[Papa]

Looking good. You're off to a great start. One suggestion: For the upper control arms, I'd recommend flipping those attachment bolts. Wherever possible, it's good build practice to always put the head of the bolt on top and the nut on the bottom. In the unlikely event that a nut were to work loose and fall off, the bolt is more likely to stay in the hole and help limit potential damage.

Hopefully also you used Loctite in those upper ball joints. They look pretty clean so thought I would ask. Some have had trouble with them backing out once driving. In addition to Loctite, good practice to put some paint marks on the ball joint side and upper control arm so you can visually monitor if they've moved or not as part of ongoing maintenance.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/th_IMG_3309_zpsdsqswcae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3309_zpsdsqswcae.jpg.html)

Thank you for the tips. I did use blue thread locker on the upper ball joints. I ran three or four beads on each before threading them in. I will definitely flip the pivot bolts over as you suggest. I hadn't thought about it, but it makes a lot of sense. They are all still just finger tight right now until I get the spindles mounted. I'll also make sure to put some paint marks in the ball joints to keep track of any movement down the road.

[Papa]

Today I received a good number of backordered and missing parts. So far, I'm very impressed with the responsiveness from FFR. Courtnie has been great to work with through the entire process.

[Papa]

Completed the front suspension and brakes today!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84474&d=1524417127

Used the two 35mm bolts supplied by FFR to mount the caliper brackets to the spindles. The Wilwood supplied bolts are 40mm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84475&d=1524417136

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84476&d=1524417144

Next I'll begin working on the rear suspension.

[GoDadGo]

Looking Good!
Here are some of the assembly videos in case you haven't seen them.

https://youtu.be/oBJ5dKLrhoU
https://youtu.be/B5zGnHExZuA
https://youtu.be/H_n5ZJJHrjE
https://youtu.be/BHA_zGXUtok

It's all pretty straight forward stuff so Wrench On Papa, Wrench On!

Steve

[Dave Howard]

Hey Papa. Good luck with the build. My 2012 build was similar to yours except I used a Coyote power plant. I used to live in the Canadian Rockies and my experience with the Coyote at elevations from sea level to above the tree line has bee fantastic. 87 octane pump gas and ran like a top.

[Papa]

Hey Papa. Good luck with the build. My 2012 build was similar to yours except I used a Coyote power plant. I used to live in the Canadian Rockies and my experience with the Coyote at elevations from sea level to above the tree line has bee fantastic. 87 octane pump gas and ran like a top.

Yep -- EFI is a must-have at altitude! My home is at 6,100 feet and we get up over 11,000 feet going to Breckenridge.

[Papa]

More progress today on the rear suspension. With a few extra hands, I got the rear end in place and then completed the shock install and track bar install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84477&d=1524417283

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84478&d=1524417289

After adjusting the top link to get the rear shocks connected on the lower end, it seems that the clearance for the coil-over springs is going to be very close when it comes time to get the pinion angle adjusted. Has anyone had issues with this?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84479&d=1524417296

[GoDadGo]

I don't know if they changed anything since my kit was shipped (2015) but I think you've got your rear shocks upside down.

Also, I've got the Moser TSD-500 rear and I had to clearance the brackets a bit, but that is because my pinion angle is different because of how my engine sits.

Hope this helps.

[Papa]

I don't know if they changed anything since my kit was shipped (2015) but I think you've got your rear shocks upside down.

Also, I've got the Moser TSD-500 rear and I had to clearance the brackets a bit, but that is because my pinion angle is different because of how my engine sits.

Hope this helps.

Steve,

The manual specifically states that the shock body goes up unless using the double-adjustable shocks. I will wait and see what it does when it's on the ground with some weight on the rear.

Dave

[RoadRacer]

I'm not saying this is relevant but we had this conversation on the 33 forum, discussing red vs silver shocks.

Jim @FFR cleared it up:

"Monotube shocks like the red ones that come with roadsters and came with older 33 kits can be mounted either direction. Twin tube shocks, like the current 33 nickel plated ones or the optional aluminum body double adjustables, must be mounted body down. "

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24319-Inverting-Front-konis-on-33

As I said, this was a slightly different context, so take that into account. I only mention it because noticing you have red shocks.

[Papa]

I'm not saying this is relevant but we had this conversation on the 33 forum, discussing red vs silver shocks.

Jim @FFR cleared it up:

"Monotube shocks like the red ones that come with roadsters and came with older 33 kits can be mounted either direction. Twin tube shocks, like the current 33 nickel plated ones or the optional aluminum body double adjustables, must be mounted body down. "

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24319-Inverting-Front-konis-on-33

As I said, this was a slightly different context, so take that into account. I only mention it because noticing you have red shocks.

I suppose if it doesn't matter, then I could flip the shocks over. My reference to the manual was about the red vs. silver shocks, and there are different pictures in the manual that show them in either orientation.

[GoDadGo]

Papa,

I called Dan at Factory Five since my shocks are oriented in the same position as in the 2013 assembly video.
Dan stated that the Red Shocks can go either way and that you've got them in the correct position as outlined in the later manuals.
I've got them inverted like in his video, but you've done it by the book so yet again I've gone against the norm.
Hope I didn't cause you too much grief.

Steve

[Papa]

Papa,

I called Dan at Factory Five since my shocks are oriented in the same position as in the 2013 assembly video.
Dan stated that the Red Shocks can go either way and that you've got them in the correct position as outlined in the later manuals.
I've got them inverted like in his video, but you've done it by the book so yet again I've gone against the norm.
Hope I didn't cause you too much grief.

Steve

Not at all, Steve. I just wanted to know if anyone has had clearance issues. If flipping the shocks over is a good solution, I'll be happy to do what works best in spite of what is written in the manual. That's why this forum is so awesome!

Dave

[squareback]

One of the cool things about monotubes (like the reds) is that they can be mounted either way and work fine. If you need the clearance on one end or the other, mount them that way. Otherwise, mount the heavier end at the top to minimize unsprung weight in the suspension. Looks like things are going well!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Papa,
Flip 'em.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69915&d=1499424568

Cheers,
Jeff

[Papa]

Thanks to everyone for the recommendations. I went ahead and flipped the shocks over and there is a lot more clearance as expected.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84487&d=1524418202

My OCD got in the way while I was doing the flip and I pulled the springs off and flipped them over so that the "Factory Five" markings were in the proper orientation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84488&d=1524418210

[Papa]

I started on the next steps in the book and sprayed the firewall and Wilwood front foot box panel with the same bed liner spray I did the F-panels with and attached them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84489&d=1524418324

I then moved on to the pedal assembly. I removed the pedals and drilled the holes for the switch mounts and then re-installed the brake pedal. All the bare steel pedal box parts are painted and drying before I can move on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84490&d=1524418332

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84491&d=1524418342

[Papa]

Evidently Photobucket doesn't want me to use their service to provide "third party" links without a $399.00/year subscription! I switched to another service and re-posted my photo links in this thread.

[Papa]

I got the pedal assembly mostly completed today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84492&d=1524418467

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84493&d=1524418473

Is this really the way everyone is attaching the throttle cable?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84494&d=1524418480

[GoDadGo]

Is this really the way everyone is attaching the throttle cable?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4281/35763526826_5950617f96_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wuiqxu)

No, your kit comes with two clip on ball and sockets.

One for your Carb or Throttle Body the other for your Gas Pedal; however, it will work they way you have it shown.

[Papa]

No, your kit comes with two clip on ball and sockets.

One for your Carb or Throttle Body the other for your Gas Pedal; however, it will work they way you have it shown.

Cool. I saw there were two of them, but again, the manual is a bit vague. I'll cut the ball off and use the ball & socket.

[Papa]

A bit more elegant:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4253/35637041312_81b1c86b16_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wi89NL)

[GoDadGo]

Consider getting an additional Allen Set Screws for both ends.

Some folks have had the cable pop loose so you may consider adding them.

ACE Hardware is where I found them.

[Papa]

Today I assembled the fuel tank and installed it. Thanks to some gentle nudges from the gurus, everything fits well and is solid after bending the flange flat on the four parts of the tank where the frame comes in contact with it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84496&d=1524418659

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84497&d=1524418666

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84498&d=1524418672

I also taped up the inlet tube to prevent any debris from getting into the tank.

[Papa]

My axle vent is installed:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84499&d=1524418778

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84500&d=1524418784

[Dave Howard]

Hey Papa,

Depending on how picky you are with appearance, you may want to consider swopping the black socket head cap screws holding the gas tank and the pedal assembly to stainless steel. I found after one season of driving (not trailering), the supplied hardware started to rust and looked like SH!T. Its much easier to make the switch now before the car is completed.

Good job. The build is SO much fun.

[KDubU]

Looking good!

[Papa]

Hey Papa,

Depending on how picky you are with appearance, you may want to consider swopping the black socket head cap screws holding the gas tank and the pedal assembly to stainless steel. I found after one season of driving (not trailering), the supplied hardware started to rust and looked like SH!T. Its much easier to make the switch now before the car is completed.

Good job. The build is SO much fun.

Thanks for the tip -- I just placed an order for a set for the fuel strap hardware. I think the pedal box hardware should be fine as-is; not a lot of moisture here in the high desert. I plan to make the pedal box top removable, so if I do have to get in there in the future, I can do it without contorting myself into the foot well.

[RJD]

More progress today as I began assembling the front suspension. I decided on black bedliner spray for the exposed aluminum panels and scuffed and cleaned the F-panels then sprayed them. They came out really nice and after several hours of drying time, I mounted them.

That bedliner spray looks great. What brand bedliner did you use? I've been looking for options other than powder coating. Thank you

[edwardb]

I plan to make the pedal box top removable, so if I do have to get in there in the future, I can do it without contorting myself into the foot well.

I assume you're talking about the inside driver's side footbox top. Would be nice if it were removable, but two sides aren't accessible once the body is in place. The other two sides are open, but depending on how you have things installed, might not be easy to reach. So having the entire top removable isn't really possible. Hopefully you have the sheet metal version with the access panel? That provides about as much access as possible with the body on. The outside driver's side footbox top is completely covered by the body, so assume you're not talking about that one.

[Papa]

That bedliner spray looks great. What brand bedliner did you use? I've been looking for options other than powder coating. Thank you

It's just RUSTOLEUM bedliner spray. I cleaned the panels with lacquer thinner and then scuffed with a red ScothBrite pad, cleaned again with thinner, then sprayed them. I got one can that wouldn't spray unless the can was upside down, but the others have been fine. Spray one coat then a second about 5 minutes later.

[Papa]

I assume you're talking about the inside driver's side footbox top. Would be nice if it were removable, but two sides aren't accessible once the body is in place. The other two sides are open, but depending on how you have things installed, might not be easy to reach. So having the entire top removable isn't really possible. Hopefully you have the sheet metal version with the access panel? That provides about as much access as possible with the body on. The outside driver's side footbox top is completely covered by the body, so assume you're not talking about that one.

Thanks Paul. I'll have to see what makes sense and I may have to create my own access panel as I don't believe I saw anything like that when disassembling the car.

[edwardb]

Lots of progress today! I got the body off the chassis and onto the buck and into the eventual parking space for the finished car.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4206/35755509366_0d9aa783ab_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtAkeq)


Thanks Paul. I'll have to see what makes sense and I may have to create my own access panel as I don't believe I saw anything like that when disassembling the car.

The DS footbox access panel hole is visible in this picture you posted previously of your delivery. Just under the rear left corner of the hood opening. The actual cover is somewhere in your box of loose aluminum panels. This is a standard feature FF has had on the Roadster for several years now. That delivery picture also shows how the footbox top panel is nearly covered by the body.

[Dave Howard]

I ordered it with my kit from Factory Five. It was shipped direct from Moser Engineering. I swapped out the stock chrome diff cover for the cast one shown in the pictures.

I have the same Moser diff and installed a similar aluminum cover. Here again, I swopped the black cap screws for stainless. There's just something about rust clashing with aluminum that doesn't do it for me. One other consideration. I found the allen head adjustment bolts for the "bearing backers" would wick gear oil from the diff and look terrible. This was solved by removing the jam nut, cleaning the bolts with solvent, and applying a small amount of silicone sealant to the base of the bolt before replacing the jam nut. Not a drop in the 3 years since.

[Dave Howard]

Not at all, Steve. I just wanted to know if anyone has had clearance issues. If flipping the shocks over is a good solution, I'll be happy to do what works best in spite of what is written in the manual. That's why this forum is so awesome!

Dave

I did the same thing (flipping the shocks) on my 2012 build. Over 20,000 miles and there's been NO issues. That's how they are installed in the FFR video that came out later.

[Papa]

The DS footbox access panel hole is visible in this picture you posted previously of your delivery. Just under the rear left corner of the hood opening. The actual cover is somewhere in your box of loose aluminum panels. This is a standard feature FF has had on the Roadster for several years now. That delivery picture also shows how the footbox top panel is nearly covered by the body.

Thanks Paul. That helps a lot. I'll plan to rivnut that panel in place when the time comes, but as you said, not much room even with that opening.

[Papa]

Today I got the passenger foot box assembled, fitted, and drilled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84501&d=1524418879

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84502&d=1524418886

All the panels came back off and were painted. Once they dry, I'll reassemble the foot box and rivet everything in place.

[Papa]

The passenger side foot box is done!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84503&d=1524418981

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84504&d=1524418989

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84505&d=1524418995

[GoDadGo]

Making Progress Sir Papa!

Keep Those Pop Rivets Popping!

[Vette1972]

Very nice looking build! Keep up the good work.

[Papa]

Making Progress Sir Papa!

Keep Those Pop Rivets Popping!

I'm loving the pneumatic rivet gun!

[Papa]

Looking good!


Very nice looking build! Keep up the good work.

Thanks! I'm having a lot of fun with it.

[RJD]

Looking good. My kit gets delivered in September. In the meantime, living vicariously through your build.

[Papa]

Looking good. My kit gets delivered in September. In the meantime, living vicariously through your build.

The waiting is the hardest part!

[Papa]

Not much progress today as I needed to tend to other maintenance tasks, but I did get the passenger side floor in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84506&d=1524419108

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84507&d=1524419116

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84508&d=1524419123

[Papa]

I ordered a CNC double fluid reservoir and will be splitting the front and rear brakes into separate systems for safety.

70624

I guess now I get to figure out how I want to run the hoses from the master cylinders to the reservoir. I'm thinking of doing bulkhead connectors.

[Straversi]

We had a sign in a sheet metal shop I worked in the read:

"It is a scientifically proven fact that fingers on the back side of the panel you are drilling are 25% longer than our think"

Keep that in mind when installing those panels. It's a tedious job. Quit when you are tired.

-Steve

[Papa]

We had a sign in a sheet metal shop I worked in the read:

"It is a scientifically proven fact that fingers on the back side of the panel you are drilling are 25% longer than our think"

Keep that in mind when installing those panels. It's a tedious job. Quit when you are tired.

-Steve

Fingers are one thing, eyes are another. I'm wearing safety glasses anytime I'm drilling, riveting, or blowing shavings out of the car.

[squareback]

Nice work. I love the look of the black footboxes with the contrasting rivets. Looks all business.

[Papa]

Nice work. I love the look of the black footboxes with the contrasting rivets. Looks all business.

Thank you!

[Papa]

I didn't get to work on the car today, but made a call to BluePrint Engines and ordered my engine and transmission. I'm getting their 347 with EFI, power steering, and the Cobra (427 style) valve covers. I'm also getting the TKO-600 transmission with aluminum bell housing. For those interested in driving their cars on the track, BluePrint is now offering a steel bell housing as an option. I told Pete that I would be passing through in August on my way to Omaha and he offered me a facility tour. I'll definitely be stopping in to check it out and should be able to see my engine in production if I time it right!

[WIS89]

Papa-

Congratulations on the engine decision! You will be very happy with Blueprint engines! They do a very nice job, and build a quality engine!! Pete is a nice guy, and was awesome to deal with. I think you will be very happy with your decision!

Please show some pictures when it arrives.

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Papa-

Congratulations on the engine decision! You will be very happy with Blueprint engines! They do a very nice job, and build a quality engine!! Pete is a nice guy, and was awesome to deal with. I think you will be very happy with your decision!

Please show some pictures when it arrives.

Regards,

Steve

Thanks, Steve. I am excited to get my build to a point where I can drop the diamond into the jewelry box! I just got notified of more parts arriving next week, my wheels and tires!

[BluePrintEngines]

Nice Progress!

Truck looks great too ;)

[Papa]

Nice Progress!

Truck looks great too ;)

Thanks! Here is a better picture of the truck:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84509&d=1524419222

I'm the original owner and at ten years old it has just over 78,000 miles on it. It has an 8" ProComp lift and the tires are 37x13.50 on 20x10 wheels. I've had a little work done under the hood and it makes just shy of 500 h.p. and around 900 ft.-lb. of torque.

[Papa]

Today I was able to get the driver's side floor installed. After that, I assembled the driver's side foot box to check fitment. I'll have to trim a bit off the lower inside foot box panel, but everything else looks like a good fit. I also drilled the hole for my separated brake hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84510&d=1524419312

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84511&d=1524419319

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84512&d=1524419328

I also adjusted my Wilwood balance bar to get the brake pedal off the cross brace. I had to shorten the push rods a bit as discussed in several threads, but I think I have it correct now.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JKTn6t6aoU

[GoDadGo]

Looks Great!

Also, consider leaving the outer parts of the driver's foot box off of the car until you get through your Go-Kart testing.
That way you can get to the tough stuff if you need to do some adjusting or fiddle with the pedal assembly, wiring harness, etc.

Again, Looks Great!

[Papa]

Looks Great!

Also, consider leaving the outer parts of the driver's foot box off of the car until you get through your Go-Kart testing.
That way you can get to the tough stuff if you need to do some adjusting or fiddle with the pedal assembly, wiring harness, etc.

Again, Looks Great!

Thanks, Steve. I'll definitely leave the outer sections off. I just wanted to fit everything before I mounted the inner wall. I wish I'd done the fitting before mounting the Wilwood front panel as you can see it sits about 1/8" lower than I'd like. Had I done a complete fitting first, I would have trimmed a bit out of the rectangular slot to get the panel to sit a bit higher.

Dave

[Papa]

I finished installing the inner wall on the driver's side foot box today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84513&d=1524419459

After that, I fabricated a bracket for my CNC double reservoir. I think it turned out pretty good. I'll mount it from the bottom of the curved tubing just to the front of the foot box. To make the bracket, I cut a section of the unused front foot box panel and then added nut-serts so that I can remove the reservoir if I ever need to someday.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84514&d=1524419467

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84515&d=1524419474

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84516&d=1524419481

I also replaced the fuel tank strap hardware with stainless.

[Papa]

I stayed home from work today to meet a contractor and to take delivery of my wheels and tires. I finished up the cockpit aluminum except for the rear wall as I need to get the trunk floor in before attaching the rear wall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84517&d=1524419629

I also spent a little time getting the driver's foot box access cover set up with nutserts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84518&d=1524419637

When the wheels and tires showed up, I had to give the FedEx guy a tour around the chassis. He was in awe with the kit. I went ahead and mounted up one each front and rear tire to check fitment and they fit, but just barely! The lower traction lock bracket is about 1/4" from the inner edge of the rim and the top of the tire clears the coil spring by about 1/2". The fronts fit fine with maybe 1/16" clearance to the brake caliper.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84519&d=1524419645

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84520&d=1524419654

The mailman also brought me a couple of parts today:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84521&d=1524419664

She's starting to look like a car!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84522&d=1524419671

[Papa]

I installed the steering rack and shaft today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84523&d=1524419859

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84524&d=1524419867

When I installed the shaft onto the rack, the rack's splined shaft bottomed out into the lower steering shaft, but left some splines showing. I assume this is normal?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84525&d=1524419877

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking really good! Steering shaft appears to be normal.

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Exactly how my steering shaft looks as well.

[Papa]

Looking really good! Steering shaft appears to be normal.

Jeff


Exactly how my steering shaft looks as well.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the comments and confirmation on the steering.

[AC Bill]

You sure manage to keep your shop nice and tidy, during the build..:)

Hope you don't mind if I throw in a couple comments..
I was looking at the strap bolt on the picture you posted, and it looked to me like the nylock nut should have a few more threads holding it in place.. I purchased a longer bolt specifically for that spot, because of that.


Today I assembled the fuel tank and installed it. Thanks to some gentle nudges from the gurus, everything fits well and is solid after bending the flange flat on the four parts of the tank where the frame comes in contact with it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4254/35785778746_8d47e9b90e_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wwgtgh)

You mention attaching your trunk floor panel. I would be hesitant to install that, until you get your brake and fuel lines all in place. It's a lot easier to drill holes in the frame for the line clamps from above. That being said, I also left my floor panels free until all the lines, and electrical harness was installed. Outer foot box panels, were also left till later in the build, as it allowed for easier access to wire harness, and ECM installation and fitting insulation and carpet in the foot box area.

I also noticed the angle the throttle cable sits on when attached to the pedal, as it passes through the threaded ferrule in the foot box front panel. I have heard of that cable sawing itself into the ferrule after a time. It can cause the cable to eventually fail from friction fatigue, or even possibly cause the cable to jam in the groove cut in the ferrule.
One of the ways you might be able to avoid this issue, is similar to what I have seen some builders, do when they had a similar issue with the clutch cable, and firewall adjusters. Simple tube shims, cut at an angle, and installed behind the ferrule nuts, will allow the cable to move back and forth through the ferrule, without cutting in to it. The shims center the cable angle, by making the ferrule sit at a slight angle. At the very least make sure you grease the cable well where it will move through the ferrule.
There may be some other solutions builder have come up with, that they could offer, to avoid this potential issue.

[Papa]

You sure manage to keep your shop nice and tidy, during the build..:)

Hope you don't mind if I throw in a couple comments..
I was looking at the strap bolt on the picture you posted, and it looked to me like the nylock nut should have a few more threads holding it in place.. I purchased a longer bolt specifically for that spot, because of that.



You mention attaching your trunk floor panel. I would be hesitant to install that, until you get your brake and fuel lines all in place. It's a lot easier to drill holes in the frame for the line clamps from above. That being said, I also left my floor panels free until all the lines, and electrical harness was installed. Outer foot box panels, were also left till later in the build, as it allowed for easier access to wire harness, and ECM installation and fitting insulation and carpet in the foot box area.

I also noticed the angle the throttle cable sits on when attached to the pedal, as it passes through the threaded ferrule in the foot box front panel. I have heard of that cable sawing itself into the ferrule after a time. It can cause the cable to eventually fail from friction fatigue, or even possibly cause the cable to jam in the groove cut in the ferrule.
One of the ways you might be able to avoid this issue, is similar to what I have seen some builders, do when they had a similar issue with the clutch cable, and firewall adjusters. Simple tube shims, cut at an angle, and installed behind the ferrule nuts, will allow the cable to move back and forth through the ferrule, without cutting in to it. The shims center the cable angle, by making the ferrule sit at a slight angle. At the very least make sure you grease the cable well where it will move through the ferrule.
There may be some other solutions builder have come up with, that they could offer, to avoid this potential issue.

Bill,

I appreciate any and all comments as I am a first-time builder and can use all the tips and hints I can get. I spend a ton of time reading through the other build threads before every step.

I used to work in my Dad's body shop when I was a kid, and he always stressed keeping things clean and organized -- I guess that stuck with me.

The bolt on the passenger fuel strap is still loose (the manual said to leave it that way for now -- not sure why) and I bought some aluminum tubing to make spacers with that I'll use to try to get the bolt a bit straighter when I do fully tighten it up.

I'll shim the ferule for the throttle cable. I don't think it needs much, but better to address it before it turns into a problem. I have a box of thin stainless washers that I think I can use to make shims if I cut one or two in half and file the edges down. I'll play with that this weekend.

I won't be installing the trunk floor until after I run my brake and fuel lines. I just wanted to get it fit for the battery box and don't have my Ni-Cop brake line yet. I want to run my brake lines with as few unions as possible. I ordered an Eastwood line straightener and a roll of Nickle-Copper line with stainless gravel-guard and a bunch of fittings. I also have the Eastwood turret style professional flare tool and bending pliers. Once the lines are all run and I have my electrical harness positioned, I will get the trunk floor in and then attach the rear cockpit wall. I was more concerned about the fluid lines and hadn't considered the electrical, so thanks for bringing that up!

I will be getting the chassis off the dolly soon now that my steering parts and wheels and tires came in. I'll be setting the car on a set of skates for the rest of the build, but can put it up on jack stands if I need more room to work under the car.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience with a rookie builder. I truly appreciate all the help I can get along the way!

Dave

[Boydster]

Dave, are these the Eastwood bending Pliers you got?

Eastwood brakeline bending pliers (http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&product_id=%7Bproduct_id%7D&adpos=1o5&creative=179099107379&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tbKwdyu1QIVzUoNCh1AKQEYEAQYBSAB EgI9svD_BwE)

If so, please test them on NiCopp lines. I did the same thing and there's an edge on those pliers that leaves a really nice little nick in the line. Excellent spot for a crack and a broken line later on. I was going to use them for fine tuning the lines, but ended up tossing them in the toolbox and didnt touch em again. Might work well on harder lines, but the NiCopp is just too soft. The line straighteners and turret flaring tool will work great. You can do slight bends with your hands to fine tune.

If you do single flare with the turret tool, like an AN fuel line, research how to do it. Directions are all about double flare. Does excellent single flares, you just gotta know how first.

Keep up the build!

[Papa]

Dave, are these the Eastwood bending Pliers you got?

Eastwood brakeline bending pliers (http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&product_id=%7Bproduct_id%7D&adpos=1o5&creative=179099107379&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tbKwdyu1QIVzUoNCh1AKQEYEAQYBSAB EgI9svD_BwE)

If so, please test them on NiCopp lines. I did the same thing and there's an edge on those pliers that leaves a really nice little nick in the line. Excellent spot for a crack and a broken line later on. I was going to use them for fine tuning the lines, but ended up tossing them in the toolbox and didnt touch em again. Might work well on harder lines, but the NiCopp is just too soft. The line straighteners and turret flaring tool will work great. You can do slight bends with your hands to fine tune.

If you do single flare with the turret tool, like an AN fuel line, research how to do it. Directions are all about double flare. Does excellent single flares, you just gotta know how first.

Keep up the build!

Boyd,

Yep -- I bought the flare tool and pliers as a combo set from Jeggs. Thanks for the heads up on the potential to damage the line. I was considering getting an actual tubing bender to get tighter radius bends without kinking the line. I watched Eastwood's video on their site on how to make different types of flares and it does a nice job showing how to use the tool. I'll do a bit of practicing before I get serious with my lines that will go onto the car.

Dave

[AC Bill]

I found this tubing bender worked fine for all bends other than the pig-tails. I used armored lines, so I needed a bender that would accommodate a larger diameter.
http://rubiconscat.com/Tech/Brakes/tubeBender.jpg

For the pig-tails, I used the two sockets in a vice method.

[Boydster]

Def use a tubing bender. Makes nice curves and a neat job.

[GoDadGo]

I picked up this bender from AMAZON and used it for everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Heavy-Tubing-Bender-Easily/dp/B06XPDJC9H/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501347339&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tubing+bender&psc=1

Also, I did run all of my tubing (Brakes & Fuel) along with the rear wiring harness before installing the trunk floor.

[Papa]

I picked up this bender from AMAZON and used it for everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Heavy-Tubing-Bender-Easily/dp/B06XPDJC9H/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501347339&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tubing+bender&psc=1

Also, I did run all of my tubing (Brakes & Fuel) along with the rear wiring harness before installing the trunk floor.

I ordered one very similar to that and it should be here in a couple of days.

[Papa]

I had planned to start running my brake lines today, but I'm still missing a few things for that task. So, I mounted the reservoir and connected the master cylinders with the CNC supplied hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84526&d=1524419995

Then I did some testing to see how much movement of the rear axle would be required to contact the FF Metal battery box and decided that if I actually articulated the rear axle as much on either side to cause contact that I'd likely be in much worse trouble with the car than a dent in the battery box. So, with that said I went ahead and mounted the box and cut out the opening in the trunk floor. That's all I had in me today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84527&d=1524420002

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84528&d=1524420009

[Papa]

I got a little more done today while I wait for the rest of my items to arrive so I can start running my brake hard lines. Here is another picture of the FF Metal battery box all painted and fully riveted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84529&d=1524420143

I also installed cushion clamps on the brake reservoir hoses. I still need to finish adjusting the balance bar before locking down the jam nuts and calling it good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84530&d=1524420150

I also installed all the brake flex lines and checked for clearance with the front wheel mounted and turned lock-to-lock.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84531&d=1524420156

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84532&d=1524420163

[GoDadGo]

Very Clean & Very Professional!

A Masterpiece Is Being Created!

Keep Up The Excellent Work!

[Papa]

Very Clean & Very Professional!

A Masterpiece Is Being Created!

Keep Up The Excellent Work!

Thanks, Steve. And thank you for all the hints and tips you've been sharing.

Dave

[SSNK4US]

My two cents on the cover... I like the cast cover idea too... and if you had to have it all "chromie" (new word) you could always polish the cast cover.

[SSNK4US]

Sorry, a little behind... rear end cover. Just started reading your build lol

[Papa]

My two cents on the cover... I like the cast cover idea too... and if you had to have it all "chromie" (new word) you could always polish the cast cover.


Sorry, a little behind... rear end cover. Just started reading your build lol

No "chromie" cover for me! I treated the cast cover with Sharkhide and did the same for all the bare metal parts in the suspension as well. BTW, I grew up in Lodi, CA.; just a few hours north of you.

Dave

[SSNK4US]

Actually 3 and 1/2 hours lol My wife's (of 35 years next month) lives in Aurora.
Your build looks and is going great! Keep up the good work! All of these guys on here are an incredible, priceless wealth of knowledge. I'm envious for now, but should place order before the end of the year.

[Papa]

Actually 3 and 1/2 hours lol My wife's (of 35 years next month) lives in Aurora.
Your build looks and is going great! Keep up the good work! All of these guys on here are an incredible, priceless wealth of knowledge. I'm envious for now, but should place order before the end of the year.

Small world!

[Papa]

The last two items I needed to start my hard brake lines arrived today. I think I have everything I need now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84533&d=1524420290

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84534&d=1524420297

My first test flare looks good to me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84535&d=1524420303

[GoDadGo]

PaPa,

Isn't that the coolest, easiest flaring tool you've ever seen?
You Are Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo There!
Take your wife out to dinner and start doing brake lines this weekend.
Just remember when form follows function, then all is right with the world.

Steve

[Papa]

PaPa,

Isn't that the coolest, easiest flaring tool you've ever seen?
You Are Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo There!
Take your wife out to dinner and start doing brake lines this weekend.
Just remember when form follows function, then all is right with the world.

Steve

It's pretty idiot proof, which is exactly what I need! The tubing straightener is amazingly simple and effective as well. The only negative is that it only works on one size of tubing and the price is a bit steep for what it is. Friday is date night with the wife -- Saturday is brake line time!

[GoDadGo]

It's pretty idiot proof, which is exactly what I need! The tubing straightener is amazingly simple and effective as well. The only negative is that it only works on one size of tubing and the price is a bit steep for what it is. Friday is date night with the wife -- Saturday is brake line time!

I wish I would have bought the straightener.
Just Saying!

[Papa]

While I was waiting for my brake line items to arrive, I started looking at the dash. I assembled the glove box and didn't care for the latch that came with the kit. It looked fine, but I didn't want to have to use a key to open the glove compartment. Thanks to Paul (edwardb) for recommending the VW latch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84536&d=1524420399

The latch looks great and allows the door to be locked or unlocked and opened without a key. The catch that came with the dash is too small to allow the latch to grab it, so I'm making a catch bar. I cut and bent a piece of 8-32 threaded rod and I'm filing the threads off the portion that will be used as the catch. It will be adjustable using the small nuts and secured from the opposite side with to locking nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84537&d=1524420406

[Papa]

My first hard line is in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84538&d=1524420491

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84539&d=1524420497

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84540&d=1524420503

It's the tie between the two rear wheels. I need to finish installing the cushion clamps. I'll be running the long line from the rear to the master cylinder next. That may prove a bit more challenging. It's a good thing the rolls of nickel-copper aren't too expensive.

[GoDadGo]

Check Edwardb's build threads before you start the long run or send him a Private Message because I'll bet he has some slick tricks.

[Papa]

Check Edwardb's build threads before you start the long run or send him a Private Message because I'll bet he has some slick tricks.

I have his brake line post printed out and sitting in front of me! Now I just need to figure out if I can do the rear to front in one continuous piece with out a lift to get the car high enough to run the bent line into the foot box. I may end up with a union inside the foot box, which is probably okay.

[GoDadGo]

I have his brake line post printed out and sitting in front of me! Now I just need to figure out if I can do the rear to front in one continuous piece with out a lift to get the car high enough to run the bent line into the foot box. I may end up with a union inside the foot box, which is probably okay.

I had to do a union under the driver side foot box.
I did the union outside the car in case I had a leak.

[Papa]

I had to do a union under the driver side foot box.
I did the union outside the car in case I had a leak.

That's pretty much what I'm looking now. I just want to be sure before I start drilling holes.

[Papa]

Rear brake hardline is complete! I had to use one union. :(

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84541&d=1524420630

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84542&d=1524420639

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84543&d=1524420647

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84544&d=1524420655

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84545&d=1524420665

[Dave Howard]

Rear brakes line installation as described in the manual. good job. I did the exact same route. It is quite common to need one union.

Are you contemplating the installation of self adhesive sound/heat deadening material such as Dynamat? If you are, consider starting to install in the ends of the footboxes before closing them up. It is a pain to stick that stuff in those areas once closed and the body is on.

[Papa]

Rear brakes line installation as described in the manual. good job. I did the exact same route. It is quite common to need one union.

Are you contemplating the installation of self adhesive sound/heat deadening material such as Dynamat? If you are, consider starting to install in the ends of the footboxes before closing them up. It is a pain to stick that stuff in those areas once closed and the body is on.

Thanks, Dave. I wasn't sure about using the gravel guard on the full length of the line, but I figured it couldn't hurt anything, especially using the softer nickel-copper line. I plan to get started on the front today, but I think I may run out of line before finishing.

I do plan to install Thermo-Tec mat on the floor and cockpit walls, so that will be one of the next tasks I start on. Should I seal up all the gaps with silicone before placing the mat? It seems like I should, but haven't seen much discussion on the topic. Thinking about places for water to drain when the inevitable happens.

Dave

[japollon]

Dave, great looking work. I'm right behind you by a couple of days. Please continue to post pictures! They are so helpful. Where did you get the gravel guard--part number and source? Joel

[Papa]

Dave, great looking work. I'm right behind you by a couple of days. Please continue to post pictures! They are so helpful. Where did you get the gravel guard--part number and source? Joel

Joel,

I got an 8-foot length along with my line and a ton of fittings (most I'll never use) from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Stainless-armor-Fittings/dp/B01MAVTY63/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1501949478&sr=8-11&keywords=3%2F16+gravel+guard

However, if you just search for "3/16 gravel guard" on Amazon, there are lots of offerings in different lengths.

I just finished up the front lines (pictures later) and had about 3' of line left over from my 25' roll. I have a bleeder on its way and will get the master cylinders bench bled, then bleed the system and check for leaks; fingers crossed!

Dave

[Dave Howard]

Thanks, Dave. I wasn't sure about using the gravel guard on the full length of the line, but I figured it couldn't hurt anything, especially using the softer nickel-copper line. I plan to get started on the front today, but I think I may run out of line before finishing.

I do plan to install Thermo-Tec mat on the floor and cockpit walls, so that will be one of the next tasks I start on. Should I seal up all the gaps with silicone before placing the mat? It seems like I should, but haven't seen much discussion on the topic. Thinking about places for water to drain when the inevitable happens.

Dave

I would seal all the gaps and put a bead of silicone along all the inside corners where panels have been joined. The concern is with water blowing in when the inevitable happens - even with the use of a cauching when joining the panels. Some guys, and the instructors at the build school have mentioned drilling drain holes in the lower floor of each footbox. I've been caught in rain and have been fortunate to either have been driving at highway speed, or have had the top with me. I don't have drain holes.

Another thing to consider. It is important to seal the windshield post around the body. The supplied covers are aesthetic only. Any water coming in on the drivers side winds up on the fuse panel. I found out the hard way and lost both flasher relays. I've sealed the area but thought in the next build I would install a cover over the fuse panel to prevent anything from dripping onto the panel.

[Papa]

I would seal all the gaps and put a bead of silicone along all the inside corners where panels have been joined. The concern is with water blowing in when the inevitable happens - even with the use of a cauching when joining the panels. Some guys, and the instructors at the build school have mentioned drilling drain holes in the lower floor of each footbox. I've been caught in rain and have been fortunate to either have been driving at highway speed, or have had the top with me. I don't have drain holes.

Another thing to consider. It is important to seal the windshield post around the body. The supplied covers are aesthetic only. Any water coming in on the drivers side winds up on the fuse panel. I found out the hard way and lost both flasher relays. I've sealed the area but thought in the next build I would install a cover over the fuse panel to prevent anything from dripping onto the panel.

Thanks, Dave.

[Papa]

As promised, pictures of the installed front brake lines. Mine aren't as pretty as Paul's, but they should do the trick.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84546&d=1524420836

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84547&d=1524420844

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84548&d=1524420853

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84549&d=1524420862

[Papa]

I also decided that filing the threads from the threaded rod to create my glove box catch looked horrible, so I tried another approach. I bought blank rod and threaded the ends. Looks much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84550&d=1524420993

Installed in the dash:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84551&d=1524421001

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84552&d=1524421010

I thought about trying to get the angle to be more level, but the latch/catch work perfectly, so I'm going to leave it alone.

[edwardb]

Looking good. I had armored brake lines on my Mk3 and always like them. Certainly can't hurt. I didn't use it on the two Mk4 builds with rigid stainless lines. Not going to hurt that stuff. Glad the VW glovebox latch worked out. That's a nice unit. I like how it latches without have to use the key. The one on my other Mk4 was only magnetic. When left unlocked, it would fly open on spirited acceleration. Kind of became the signal my wife used to suggest I was driving too fast. Not flying open now. ;)

[Papa]

Looking good. I had armored brake lines on my Mk3 and always like them. Certainly can't hurt. I didn't use it on the two Mk4 builds with rigid stainless lines. Not going to hurt that stuff. Glad the VW glovebox latch worked out. That's a nice unit. I like how it latches without have to use the key. The one on my other Mk4 was only magnetic. When left unlocked, it would fly open on spirited acceleration. Kind of became the signal my wife used to suggest I was driving too fast. Not flying open now. ;)

Thanks, Paul. I'm wondering how my wife is going to handle "spirited acceleration" in the MK4 when she already has a fit when I flip the BMW into sport mode. Hey, but at least the glove box will stay closed!

[WIS89]

Papa-

I like the glove box latch; nice improvement you made using the rod, and only threading the ends! It looks great, and will certainly hold for you.

I have a suggestion for you regarding the spirited acceleration issue. When your wife first starts to ride with you, don't set the latch on the glove box. This way it will fly open when you accelerate hard. She will likely respond how Paul's wife did. After a few rides like this, you can then latch it properly, and it won't fly open again. You can then point to the fact that it isn't flying open to suggest that you are not accelerating too quickly! Just a thought...

I have enjoyed following along on your build. Things are looking great!

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Papa-

I like the glove box latch; nice improvement you made using the rod, and only threading the ends! It looks great, and will certainly hold for you.

I have a suggestion for you regarding the spirited acceleration issue. When your wife first starts to ride with you, don't set the latch on the glove box. This way it will fly open when you accelerate hard. She will likely respond how Paul's wife did. After a few rides like this, you can then latch it properly, and it won't fly open again. You can then point to the fact that it isn't flying open to suggest that you are not accelerating too quickly! Just a thought...

I have enjoyed following along on your build. Things are looking great!

Regards,

Steve

Steve,

I think the sound difference alone will nullify that theory. She'll likely tell me to slow down while it's sitting still at idle.

Dave

[Dave Howard]

Papa-

I like the glove box latch; nice improvement you made using the rod, and only threading the ends! It looks great, and will certainly hold for you.

I have a suggestion for you regarding the spirited acceleration issue. When your wife first starts to ride with you, don't set the latch on the glove box. This way it will fly open when you accelerate hard. She will likely respond how Paul's wife did. After a few rides like this, you can then latch it properly, and it won't fly open again. You can then point to the fact that it isn't flying open to suggest that you are not accelerating too quickly! Just a thought...

I have enjoyed following along on your build. Things are looking great!

Regards,

Steve

Or you can encourage your wife to drive the roadster herself. I've read a number of posts and threads from guys who said their wives don't drive the roadster. I can only image the host of talks from husbands about needing to be careful, about how demanding the car is, how unforgiving it is. I took a different approach with my partner when I introduced the car to her. I TAUGHT HER HOW TO DRIVE STICK ON A 490HP FFR ROADSTER. She loves it. Loves the look, loves the feel, loves going quickly. Once she got the grasp of clutch/gas/gears, it was "don't be afraid to hit the go pedal". In fact, she spelled me off for a few hours on the recent London Ohio 2,000 kilometre round trip.

[Papa]

Or you can encourage your wife to drive the roadster herself. I've read a number of posts and threads from guys who said their wives don't drive the roadster. I can only image the host of talks from husbands about needing to be careful, about how demanding the car is, how unforgiving it is. I took a different approach with my partner when I introduced the car to her. I TAUGHT HER HOW TO DRIVE STICK ON A 490HP FFR ROADSTER. She loves it. Loves the look, loves the feel, loves going quickly. Once she got the grasp of clutch/gas/gears, it was "don't be afraid to hit the go pedal". In fact, she spelled me off for a few hours on the recent London Ohio 2,000 kilometre round trip.

My wife likely will never drive the MK4. Not because she can't, but because she simply won't want to. She's had big block cars, sports cars, and even drove a Deuce and a Half when she was in the Army. She just never seems to want to drive any of the "toy" cars I've ever owned. We had a 2006 Mercedes SL 500 and she never once wanted to drive it. She was always ready to go for a drive, but always in the passenger seat. I imagine I'll get her behind the wheel at least once at some point, but I don't see her fighting me for the keys.

[AC Bill]

I showed my wife that infamous You-tube video, of the women who got behind the wheel of her husbands red roadster. She didn't even manage a full block before losing it, and smashing into some parked cars.. A couple similar videos of people losing it at low speeds in their roadsters, has her convinced that she couldn't handle it. :cool:

[GoDadGo]

Papa,

Man Are You Cooking With Gas Now!
Looking Good Papa, Looking Good!

Steve

[Papa]

I had to make a quick trip out of town late last week and just returned home, so no updates on my build today. I do, however, have a brand new, healthy granddaughter!

[Dave Howard]

I had to make a quick trip out of town late last week and just returned home, so no updates on my build today. I do, however, have a brand new, healthy granddaughter!

Good enough reason for a road trip. Hopefully everyone is doing fine. Congrats

[Papa]

Good enough reason for a road trip. Hopefully everyone is doing fine. Congrats

Thanks, Dave. Everyone is doing great.

[Papa]

Today I bled the brakes. First I bench bled the master cylinders by connecting a piece of tubing where the hard lines connect to the MC and put the other end of the tube into the reservoir and pumped the pedal until only fluid was coming from the end into the reservoir. Next I did the rear system starting with the caliper furthest from the reservoir and then the closer caliper. Finally, I did the same for the front system. Next, I checked for pedal feel and it seems good and firm with no fade. I then checked for leaks. I had one that just required a bit of snugging up of the fitting and all is good! My car has working brakes. At this point, I need to sort out the fuel system and have some things to consider thanks to some feedback in the main forum.

I also decided it was time to ditch the frame dolly, so on went the shoes and she's on the ground for the first time!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84553&d=1524421109

I then set the car on some skates.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84554&d=1524421115

[Papa]

While I wait for my engine to be completed, I'm kind of at a stand still on the build. Today, however, I spent some time sealing up the gaps and little openings in the foot boxes. For the larger gaps, I made small patches out of scrap aluminum and siliconed them into place. These were needed around the round tube in the lower right-front of the PS foot box and another at the bottom right of the PS foot box where the floor transitions to the higher level. I order three 36" x 60" rolls of Thermo-Tec heat & sound insulation that will be here in a couple of days.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84555&d=1524421186

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84556&d=1524421194

[Papa]

I did end up making some good progress yesterday. After sealing up the cockpit seams, I was looking at what else I could accomplish without my fuel management system in hand. I ended up fitting, drilling, and painting the remaining trunk aluminum. I won't install them until after the fuel system and electrical are in place. I also started reading through the Ron Francis electrical harness manual and ordered some good crimpers, adhesive heat shrink tubing, and an Optima red-top battery. I'll have plenty to do while I'm waiting for the call from BluePrint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84557&d=1524421264

[Papa]

Today, I got all of the RF wiring harnesses installed roughly where they need to be. I found one thing that I did wrong when doing my brakes. I used the space intended to run the harness through for one of my brake reservoir hoses. So, I had to improvise and routed the front harness a bit differently than the manual indicates. I hope there aren't any gotchas in store for me with my new routing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84558&d=1524421351

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84559&d=1524421360

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84560&d=1524421374

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84561&d=1524421387

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84562&d=1524421398

I also installed my gauges in the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84563&d=1524421408

Next will be the gauge wiring and figuring out where to mount my FF wiper motor on the firewall.

[Straversi]

Looking good. Don't think you will have any problems. I've seen many others route their brake reservoirs and wiringn harness like you did.
-Steve

[GoDadGo]

Papa Dave,

You may want you to consider doing a Drop Trunk prior to installing your floor.
The amount of space that you will gain is definitely worth the effort.
For the record; I wish I had gone down that path.
Keep Up The Good Work!

Steve

[edwardb]

Today, I got all of the RF wiring harnesses installed roughly where they need to be. I found one thing that I did wrong when doing my brakes. I used the space intended to run the harness through for one of my brake reservoir hoses. So, I had to improvise and routed the front harness a bit differently than the manual indicates. I hope there aren't any gotchas in store for me with my new routing.

I prefer to run the front harness across the bottom of the radiator rather than the top. It can get a little congested up at the top with the radiator mounting plus it's completely out of sight. Using the Breeze lower radiator mount is highly recommended, and it's also perfect to tie the harness to for the crossover. But it does take a little more length on the harness to reach the PS doing it that way, and jogging over to the hole you used through the footbox takes up some of that length. Just something you may want to look at.

[Papa]

Papa Dave,

You may want you to consider doing a Drop Trunk prior to installing your floor.
The amount of space that you will gain is definitely worth the effort.
For the record; I wish I had gone down that path.
Keep Up The Good Work!

Steve

Thanks, Steve. I considered the drop trunk and decided against it. The most I'll likely ever have in the trunk is a car cover and a duffle bag or a couple of back packs. I thought the more practical trunk mod for my planned use was the drop battery box.

[GoDadGo]

Papa Dave,

Glad you've got your plan laid out.
I just didn't want you to have a "Would-A, Could-A, Should-A, Wish-I-Would-A" epiphany like I had post trunk floor installation.
Keep Up The Great Work!

Steve

[Papa]

Looking good. Don't think you will have any problems. I've seen many others route their brake reservoirs and wiringn harness like you did.
-Steve


I prefer to run the front harness across the bottom of the radiator rather than the top. It can get a little congested up at the top with the radiator mounting plus it's completely out of sight. Using the Breeze lower radiator mount is highly recommended, and it's also perfect to tie the harness to for the crossover. But it does take a little more length on the harness to reach the PS doing it that way, and jogging over to the hole you used through the footbox takes up some of that length. Just something you may want to look at.

Thanks gentlemen. I'll look into the Breeze lower radiator support. I already planned on buying their shroud and a couple of other items, so I see an order in the near future.

[AC Bill]

Very easy to make a lower rad support yourself for around $10.
I used a section of galvanized pipe that I covered in a rubber hose to act as a cushion. Two conduit clamps, a few machine screws, nylock nuts, and a couple of walking cane end rubbers, to seal the pipe ends. I mounted the lower rad aluminum panel to the underside of the pipe, using sheet metal tapping screws.

[japollon]

The drop trunk and rear dropped battery box are not mutually exclusive, right? We can do both?

[edwardb]

The drop trunk and rear dropped battery box are not mutually exclusive, right? We can do both?

Yes. You can do both.

I did the drop trunk in #8674. We don't try to put a lot of stuff in our trunk either. Chairs when we're going to a show is about the biggest. But I'm amazed how handy the drop trunk box is for small stuff that otherwise would be rolling around in the trunk. It's a nice addition. It would be really easy to make, but I bought the pieces from Russ Thompson. Also didn't cut the cross pieces. Once a hole is cut in the FF provided floor, not much else to do but rivet it in. Hardest part of the installation was putting carpet in it. But that's optional.

[Papa]

Very easy to make a lower rad support yourself for around $10.
I used a section of galvanized pipe that I covered in a rubber hose to act as a cushion. Two conduit clamps, a few machine screws, nylock nuts, and a couple of walking cane end rubbers, to seal the pipe ends. I mounted the lower rad aluminum panel to the underside of the pipe, using sheet metal tapping screws.

Thanks, Bill. I was looking at the kit and was thinking I could create my own, too. I'll be looking at options next time I visit my favorite home improvement store.

[mia65cobra]

Very clean build. Love the shot of the roller with your truck! Doesn't look like any of your neighbors are close enough to bother you with noise complaints...always a plus ;) Sub'd to follow along.

[Papa]

Very clean build. Love the shot of the roller with your truck! Doesn't look like any of your neighbors are close enough to bother you with noise complaints...always a plus ;) Sub'd to follow along.

Thanks. I've warned the neighbors that there will be a bit of noise coming from the shop. They are cool with the car and just want a ride when its done.

[Vspeeds]

I ordered it with my kit from Factory Five. It was shipped direct from Moser Engineering. I swapped out the stock chrome diff cover for the cast one shown in the pictures.

Papa
Back from Post#16, where did you get the cast diff cover? I didn't see it on their website.

Thanks
Eddie

[Vspeeds]

Papa
Cancel my last question. I found it on Moser's website after I posted my question. I gues I don't know how to use my ipad correctly.

[Yama-Bro]

Hey Papa, What kind of camera do you use to take your pictures? They all look great!

[Papa]

Papa
Back from Post#16, where did you get the cast diff cover? I didn't see it on their website.

Thanks
Eddie


Papa
Cancel my last question. I found it on Moser's website after I posted my question. I gues I don't know how to use my ipad correctly.

No problem. I got mine from Amazon.

[Papa]

Hey Papa, What kind of camera do you use to take your pictures? They all look great!

Thanks! My camera is my Samsung Galaxy S8. It does do a pretty good job.

[Papa]

I got the call from BluePrint Engines today. My engine is ready to ship!

[GoDadGo]

Another Big Milestone Is About To Be Achieved!

I know how I felt when my Motor Mentor (Mr. Boyd Breaux) gave me that call so I know your engine and transmission will be sitting between those 4" frame rails soon.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52543&d=1460085283

[Papa]

I don't have a lot to talk about today. I did purchase an engine hoist from Harbor Freight and assembled that. I also have a couple of pictures of some of the progress I've made.

Battery fits nicely in the FFMetal box:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84564&d=1524421581

Ignition and headlight switches connected:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84565&d=1524421588

Inertia switch mounted:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84566&d=1524421594

[Papa]

Today I started laying down the Cool Mat. I completed the firewall and PS foot box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84567&d=1524421714

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84568&d=1524421720

There is a huge difference in sound transmission on the insulated panels. I hope the heat insulating benefits are just as noticeable.

[Papa]

BluePrint sent me my dyno numbers today and I plotted them out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84569&d=1524421786

[srobinsonx2]

BluePrint sent me my dyno numbers today and I plotted them out.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/36093078334_0b353dc40f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WZqsJ3)

That is really cool. I like that they sent you the dyno results. I bet you are really excited. That will be sweet when you get it running.

[Papa]

That is really cool. I like that they sent you the dyno results. I bet you are really excited. That will be sweet when you get it running.

My entire experience with BluePrint so far has been spectacular. I'm only six hours away from them, so I hope it won't take too long for my engine to arrive.

[Papa]

Today has been a good day. First, my engine is on it's way and the dyno results look good. Then, my leather door panels from Herb Fraser (cobraherb) arrived and they look fantastic!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84570&d=1524421839

[ChopperJustin]

Papa I just discovered your build thread! You're doing a very similar build plan to what I would like to do (347 efi from blueprint) Looking forward to following along! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experience with the group!

[Papa]

Papa I just discovered your build thread! You're doing a very similar build plan to what I would like to do (347 efi from blueprint) Looking forward to following along! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experience with the group!

I'm glad to share my build and hope it helps others with theirs. I hope my engine arrives in the next week, but whenever it does I'll be posting lots of pictures!

[ChopperJustin]

Standing by! - Popcorn in hand! :)

[Papa]

Standing by! - Popcorn in hand! :)

I got the call from the freight company today. My engine will be delivered Tuesday!!!

[GoDadGo]

I got the call from the freight company today. My engine will be delivered Tuesday!!!

Tuesday Will Be One Heck Of A Great Day!

[Papa]

Tuesday Will Be One Heck Of A Great Day!

Yes it will, Steve. Good to see you back on-line after the storm. Everything good out your way?

[GoDadGo]

We were A-Okay and just had a little tide water in the streets from Lake Pontchartrain.

[Papa]

We were A-Okay and just had a little tide water in the streets from Lake Pontchartrain.

That's good to hear. We lived in Pensacola, FL when Erin hit in 1995. Now I live in Colorado -- no hurricanes to worry about here. I don't ever want to go through one of those again!!!

[Papa]

I only got to work on the car today for a couple of hours, but made some progress just the same. I re-routed my front harness per Paul's recommendation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84571&d=1524421893

I also wired up my gauges to the dash harness.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84572&d=1524421899

[Papa]

Today I insulated the DS foot box and set my dash into place. I installed the ignition, horn, and headlight switches.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84573&d=1524421982

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84574&d=1524421989

[Itchief]

Papa

I always thought that there where 0011 types of people in this world

Those who make thing happen
those who watch thing happen and
those who wonder what happened


I like the door panels from Cobra Herb that you posted about, I am planning on ordering a set in a few weeks.

Looking through your pictures and the power steering install does the rack have the 1 inch rack extensions installed?

Your build looks great

Rick

[Papa]

Papa

I always thought that there where 0011 types of people in this world

Those who make thing happen
those who watch thing happen and
those who wonder what happened


I like the door panels from Cobra Herb that you posted about, I am planning on ordering a set in a few weeks.

Looking through your pictures and the power steering install does the rack have the 1 inch rack extensions installed?

Your build looks great

Rick

Thanks for the kind words. My steering rack was ordered with the kit from FFR and does not have any added extensions. Each rod is a single threaded piece. On the door panels, I wanted leather and you need to supply your own with your order. I found a full hide on eBay for $150 and the grain, color, and finish is an exact match to the leather seats. I sent Herb what he needed and still have over 1/2 of the hide remaining.

[bluse]

I sent you a PM regarding the left over hide.

Thanks

[Papa]

Look what showed up today!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84575&d=1524422081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84576&d=1524422088

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84577&d=1524422096

When I ordered the engine I wanted the "Cobra" valve covers. I didn't realize they would have the 427 on them. I may be looking to do a swap at some point. I don't want to be accused of posing.

[rrrose]

You would have got a lot more done if it were not for me showing up and asking 120 questions. Your build is looking great online but out of the park in person. Thanks again for letting me drop by on Sunday. A most gracious host letting me take well over an hour of your precious build time.
The motor looks amazing. Give me a ring when you are ready to put it in I would be happy help. Many hands make small work.

Ron

[bluse]

That is way cool.

[Papa]

You would have got a lot more done if it were not for me showing up and asking 120 questions. Your build is looking great online but out of the park in person. Thanks again for letting me drop by on Sunday. A most gracious host letting me take well over an hour of your precious build time.
The motor looks amazing. Give me a ring when you are ready to put it in I would be happy help. Many hands make small work.

Ron

No problem at all, Ron. I enjoyed the visit and you are welcome anytime.

Dave

[Itchief]

I wish that factory five would have had the power steering option when I ordered
mine back in 2014 it would have saved me time and money

I miss read you thread about the headlight dimmer I thought you were taking about the
switch not the driving lights my bad

Love the motor pics should be one bad *** mkiv when you get it completed

Rick

[srobinsonx2]

Papa,

Very cool looking engine. That thing should awesome. Is that a vacuum advance on your distributor? I don't have that. I am pretty new when it comes to the engine stuff. Well, actually I am new to all of this. What am I saying? Did you specify that on your engine or just standard from blueprint? Just curious. If you don't mind, let us know if you like it and what it does for you.

[Papa]

Papa,

Very cool looking engine. That thing should awesome. Is that a vacuum advance on your distributor? I don't have that. I am pretty new when it comes to the engine stuff. Well, actually I am new to all of this. What am I saying? Did you specify that on your engine or just standard from blueprint? Just curious. If you don't mind, let us know if you like it and what it does for you.

It does have vacuum advance on the distributor. I didn't specify anything other than the 347 with EFI and power steering and the transmission option. I haven't had a chance to really look it over yet. First step will be to go through the EFI package and start finalizing my fuel system.

[Itchief]

If you are using a march power steering sagnaw style pump you can get a kit part number p306 to set the pressure without having to install an external regulator. You add shims to the built in regulator to set the pressure.

[Papa]

If you are using a march power steering sagnaw style pump you can get a kit part number p306 to set the pressure without having to install an external regulator. You add shims to the built in regulator to set the pressure.

:confused: I have no idea what most of that means! I suppose I'll have a lot more reading to do before hooking up the power steering. I love this forum!

[Itchief]

Looking at your motor pics it looks like you have a march accessory kit
If that is true then the power steering pump is most likely a sagnaw type pump
From my crash course in power steering gear type steering units operate at around
1200 psi rack and pinion units operate at less than 1000 psi
Pressures greater than 1000 on a rack may cause the seals to fail
If your pump is a sagnaw style pump you can use the p306 kit to set the pressure
I set mine to about 700 psi it provides good assistance at low speed but
doesn't feel to light at highway speeds

Rick

[Papa]

Looking at your motor pics it looks like you have a march accessory kit
If that is true then the power steering pump is most likely a sagnaw type pump
From my crash course in power steering gear type steering units operate at around
1200 psi rack and pinion units operate at less than 1000 psi
Pressures greater than 1000 on a rack may cause the seals to fail
If your pump is a sagnaw style pump you can use the p306 kit to set the pressure
I set mine to about 700 psi it provides good assistance at low speed but
doesn't feel to light at highway speeds

Rick

Is this what you are referring to?

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-P306-Steering-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B000PHJ6X0

How/where does it install and how does it basically work to regulate pressure?

[carlewms]

Papa ...

The engine is beautiful ... this car is going to be a real winner.

Congrats,

Carl

[Itchief]

See if you can read this I found the instructions

If it is a march sagnaw pump there should be a large nut with a fitting in the center on the back of the pump which is the discharge port

Rick73394

[Papa]

See if you can read this I found the instructions

If it is a march sagnaw pump there should be a large nut with a fitting in the center on the back of the pump which is the discharge port

Rick73394

Thanks, Rick. That looks pretty straight forward. I was concerned I was going to have to tear the entire pump apart. I'll verify my specific pump design and go from there.

Dave

[Itchief]

The flow valve is under the nut you can use your finger or something to pull it out
Hope this helps i had to look for a while before I figured it out

Rick

Are you going to do a mid shift on the tko there is a kit that doesn't require you to take the transmission apart to install I found it by dumb luck you just have to remove and reinstall a couple of roll pins

[Yama-Bro]

Hey Papa, I happened to notice your serial # is 9754. Is that correct? I ordered mine after you and mine is 9158. Maybe I'm reading mine wrong? Just wondering if yours was actually 9154?

[Papa]

Hey Papa, I happened to notice your serial # is 9754. Is that correct? I ordered mine after you and mine is 9158. Maybe I'm reading mine wrong? Just wondering if yours was actually 9154?

Oh boy, this may be one of those senior moments! I took the 9754 from the green tag that was taped to the body when the car was delivered. Looking at the serial number on the chassis, I am actually 9115. :o

[Papa]

Today I worked on figuring out how I would install a floor-mounted headlight dimmer switch. I wanted to mount it in the lower left of the foot box in a way that would not interfere with the clutch pedal. I then made a template for a bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84578&d=1524422242

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84579&d=1524422249

I picked up a small sheet of 22 gauge mild steel at my local home improvement store and traced the template onto the steel and then cut it out using a cutoff wheel. I don't have a bending brake, but was able to use my vise and made the bends using just my hands.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84580&d=1524422254

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84581&d=1524422260

Once I was happy with the fit, I drilled a hole and mounted the switch from behind with nutserts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84582&d=1524422267

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84583&d=1524422275

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84584&d=1524422283

The final assembly will be attached to the foot box tube with button-head screws into tapped holes and likely just a few pop rivets around the perimeter. The wires will come out of the bottom and then up into the foot box and to the relay behind the dash. If I ever need to replace the switch, I can drill out the rivets in 30 seconds and remove the entire bracket to get the switch out and a new one in.

[GoDadGo]

You Dog!

Didn't Think Of That One!

Boy, do I miss those days of dimmers on the floor.

Steve

[Papa]

You Dog!

Didn't Think Of That One!

Boy, do I miss those days of dimmers on the floor.

Steve

I don't know why they ever moved from the floor. There is so much going on in new cars from the stalks on the steering column. Here is my finished bracket all painted up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84585&d=1524422463

[GoDadGo]

Are you going to rivet it in from the firewall side or use rivet nuts in case you ever need to pull it loose?

[Papa]

Are you going to rivet it in from the firewall side or use rivet nuts in case you ever need to pull it loose?

I'm still undecided. I don't want any water coming in, so it will need to be done in a way that seals well. My experience with these switches is that they are very durable, so I'm willing to risk a difficult replacement. I'm looking at these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#leak-resistant-blind-rivets/=19bd9f3

[Papa]

See if you can read this I found the instructions

If it is a march sagnaw pump there should be a large nut with a fitting in the center on the back of the pump which is the discharge port

Rick73394

Rick,

Going through my Blueprint documentation, they installed a pump specifically for a 1979-1995 Mustang. I would have to assume this would work out of the box with my Mustang rack. How would I check the pressure to be sure?

Dave

[Papa]

Are you going to rivet it in from the firewall side or use rivet nuts in case you ever need to pull it loose?

I've decided to buy a bag of the "sealing rivets (https://www.mcmaster.com/#leak-resis...ivets/=19bd9f3)" from McMaster-Carr and will rivet the bracket from the outside of the foot box.

[Papa]

Today I worked on finalizing the locations of the headlight dimmer, turn signal, and hazard switches. The dimmer went into the bracket I made and is cleco'd in place until my "sealing" rivets arrive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84586&d=1524422588

For the hazard switch, I mounted it under the dash on one of my dash braces along with my trip odometer reset button.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84587&d=1524422596

The turn signal switch is the only thing that went into the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84588&d=1524422604

A couple of other odds and ends I accomplished today was to mount a clock adjust button in the glove box as Paul suggested and I connected my negative battery cable to the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84589&d=1524422610

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84590&d=1524422617

[Itchief]

Dave

Sounds like you should be good to go. Much easier than what I had to go through to get mine setup and working.

You would have to install an inline pressure gauge once you get everything installed. You would only have to reduce the pressure if the steering feels to light.

I really like the bracket for the dimmer switch.

Rick

[broku518]

Hi Papa,
Quick question. I really like the black panels look. What spray did you use?

[Papa]

Hi Papa,
Quick question. I really like the black panels look. What spray did you use?

It's Rustoleum Bedliner spray.

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/fb41bc50-3139-431f-a187-082d9bfeff62_1.2a026b6d9ad15938e75f0b9850cbea73.jp eg?odnHeight=450&odnWidth=450&odnBg=FFFFFF

[Papa]

I started on the fuel system today. After a bit of discussion in the main forum, I ended up calling Gordon Levy and ordering a complete pump (internal), lines and fittings to connect up with my F.A.S.T. EFI system. So, in preparation for those items to arrive I assembled and installed my F.A.S.T. fuel pressure regulator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84591&d=1524422770

I also installed a plug in the mechanical speedo sending port on my transmission and then decided to tackle the E-Brake cables. This is where I ended up with the cables.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84592&d=1524422777

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84593&d=1524422784

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84594&d=1524422789

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84595&d=1524422795

It just doesn't seem like the routing is correct from the frame bracket back to each wheel. If anyone can offer some recommendations on routing with the three-link, I'd appreciate it.

[Papa]

I made hangers to get the cables off the diff. Here is a link to the full thread I started on this in the main forum:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25853-E-Brake-Cable-Routing

[Papa]

Things have been a bit on the slow side here as I worked out how I was going to lay out the fuel system. Well, yesterday my new pump, lines, and fittings ordered from Gordon Levy arrived. I'll be working on that and the e-brake handle this weekend.

I plan to run the fuel lines through the trans tunnel. Any recommendations on best location? I'm thinking along the top on the passenger side. Also, just to be sure - the rubber tip on the return line (inside the tank) gets removed correct?

[edwardb]

I plan to run the fuel lines through the trans tunnel. Any recommendations on best location? I'm thinking along the top on the passenger side. Also, just to be sure - the rubber tip on the return line (inside the tank) gets removed correct?

Most don't recommend putting either fuel or brake lines in the transmission tunnel. Can get a little tight plus what might happen if the driveshaft should let go. Down the 4-inch frame tubes is by far the most common approach. That's what I've done on my builds. Can't help you with that rubber tip. I've seen it before but not sure what it does. Anti-siphon valve? Prevent foaming? Not sure I'd be in a hurry to take it off, but I really don't know. Hopefully someone else does.

[Itchief]

I ran mine on the outside of the 4 inch tube as close to the floor as possible

Rick

[Papa]

Most don't recommend putting either fuel or brake lines in the transmission tunnel. Can get a little tight plus what might happen if the driveshaft should let go. Down the 4-inch frame tubes is by far the most common approach. That's what I've done on my builds. Can't help you with that rubber tip. I've seen it before but not sure what it does. Anti-siphon valve? Prevent foaming? Not sure I'd be in a hurry to take it off, but I really don't know. Hopefully someone else does.


I ran mine on the outside of the 4 inch tube as close to the floor as possible

Rick

Thanks guys. The little rubber part stays on the return line. I will be running my -6 braided fuel lines (not hard lines) along the 4" frame rail as well. I ordered some ITC anodized separator/clamps (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-an756-08b) to keep things looking tidy, but that means another few days of waiting for parts to arrive before I can run the lines. I did install the new electric fuel pump into the tank and will get the wiring connected this weekend. The RF harness fuel pump and fuel-level sender plug wiring is too short to reach between the two, so I'll be extending the harness to the fuel pump.

[BB767]

On page 166 of my manual is specifically says to remove the rubber piece on the end of the return line.

[Papa]

On page 166 of my manual is specifically says to remove the rubber piece on the end of the return line.

Mine shows the same thing. The manual also describes drilling the openings to reduce restrictions through both the output and return tubes. I'm installing a completely different setup than the one shipped with the kit. I'm going to leave the tip installed as it was delivered and will see if I have any issues.

[Papa]

Today was one of those cats & dogs days. I started by installing a clutch cable adjuster. It came with a pair of self tapping screws, but I actually tapped a couple of holes to attach the adjuster using a couple of #10-24 stainless screws.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84596&d=1524422938

Next, I cleaned up the fuel tank vent assembly. I didn't like the idea of having an open piece of tubing that could get clogged by an insect or let other crud get to the fuel tank. So, I installed a vent cap typically used by moto-cross bikes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84597&d=1524422945

I then tapped a couple of holes to attach cushion clamps to hold the vent tube rather than zip ties.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84598&d=1524422950

I also completed extending the harness for the fuel pump plug. Once that was done, I assembled the e-brake handle and test fit it in the chassis. It looks like I'm going to have to make some modifications to the cockpit aluminum to get the handle to work. Is this a common issue? Any advice here would be appreciated.

[edwardb]

I assembled the e-brake handle and test fit it in the chassis. It looks like I'm going to have to make some modifications to the cockpit aluminum to get the handle to work. Is this a common issue? Any advice here would be appreciated.

Assume you're using the factory position on the side of the transmission tunnel. The common issue most experience (me included) is the handle ends up too close to the aluminum panel throughout its required movement. You'll need to get it moved out by slotting the holes in the chassis mount or the e-brake mounting brackets (maybe both) and slide it over enough to provide some clearance. Get it on enough of an angle that the handle swings away from the aluminum panel. It doesn't take too much to get it where it works OK. BTW, the former Mustang donor e-brake assembly had the same issue. At least they're consistent. :(

[Papa]

Assume you're using the factory position on the side of the transmission tunnel. The common issue most experience (me included) is the handle ends up too close to the aluminum panel throughout its required movement. You'll need to get it moved out by slotting the holes in the chassis mount or the e-brake mounting brackets (maybe both) and slide it over enough to provide some clearance. Get it on enough of an angle that the handle swings away from the aluminum panel. It doesn't take too much to get it where it works OK. BTW, the former Mustang donor e-brake assembly had the same issue. At least they're consistent. :(

As always, Paul, thank you for the help. I'll look at what you suggested and see where it takes me.

[Papa]

After looking at what I would need to do to move the handle further into the cockpit, it seems that the structure of the bracket is in the way. Here is what I'm thinking about doing to get the e-brake handle to fit and allow full range of motion. I'm considering cutting out the structure along the red dashed lines. I think the assembled e-brake handle should provide enough rigidity to just bolt it into the remaining portion, but if not, I can add a piece of 3/16 bar stock between the two sections (yellow dashed lines).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84599&d=1524423044

Any thought on this approach?

[edwardb]

You could approach it that way. But lots of us have made it work without going to that extreme. Here's a picture for FWIW. Note the back mounting is pushed all the way in. The front mounting is all the way out. This in addition to slotting the frame and/or e-brake brackets. Don't remember the exact detail. It's been a couple years. Note the back on top and the front on the bottom. I found this made a difference. I did route the cables slightly differently, but that doesn't matter for the handle clearance and is a whole other discussion.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg.html)

[Papa]

You could approach it that way. But lots of us have made it work without going to that extreme. Here's a picture for FWIW. Note the back mounting is pushed all the way in. The front mounting is all the way out. This in addition to slotting the frame and/or e-brake brackets. Don't remember the exact detail. It's been a couple years. Note the back on top and the front on the bottom. I found this made a difference. I did route the cables slightly differently, but that doesn't matter for the handle clearance and is a whole other discussion.

Paul,

I'll see if that approach helps (offset front to rear). I also noted in your picture that you have the bolt heads that attach the grab handle to the assembly are flipped compared to my assembly. One of the issues I'm having is that the nuts are hitting the cockpit aluminum. Since all of this is hidden by the boot, I'll flip those as well and we'll see how much closer that gets me.

Thanks,
Dave

[Papa]

I've been working with GAS-N to order a set of headers and side pipes and I can't say enough what a great experience it has been working with these guys. I was sent a pair of header flanges to try on my heads to see what worked best.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84600&d=1524423100

When I asked about the location of the bung for the O2 sensor, they asked me, "Where would you like it to be?" Since I had specific recommendations from FAST EFI, I just sent that information along with the flanges back to them and they are making my headers to my specifications!

[AC Bill]

I hope the FAST EFI instructions, as to where the O2 sensor goes on the header, is also going to work for your Roadster. Were they just general instructions, or specific to the roadster? Hate to have some clearance issue after you get them back, and your trying to bolt them on....

For the header flange to head gasket, I highly recommend using the "Remflex" gaskets. There has been problems with some makes of gaskets, burning out or blowing out, and it's a pain to have to change them. Several builders just use the copper RTV as a sealer and don't bother with the gasket at all.

[Papa]

I hope the FAST EFI instructions, as to where the O2 sensor goes on the header, is also going to work for your Roadster. Were they just general instructions, or specific to the roadster? Hate to have some clearance issue after you get them back, and your trying to bolt them on....

For the header flange to head gasket, I highly recommend using the "Remflex" gaskets. There has been problems with some makes of gaskets, burning out or blowing out, and it's a pain to have to change them. Several builders just use the copper RTV as a sealer and don't bother with the gasket at all.

Bill,

The EFI instructions provide the preferred angle of the sensor (10*) and the minimum distance from the head. They prefer to mount in the collector, but since there won't be a collector on this set, it's more about the first two items. Thanks for the advice on the gaskets. I was going to ask what brands folks have had the best luck with. I also have a tube of the copper RTV that I plan to use between the headers and the pipes instead of a gasket. I'll be using Stage-8 header bolts and hope they perform as advertised.

Thanks,
Dave

[Papa]

I will be tackling my fuel lines this weekend (finally), and while I was shopping for parts and tools I spent some time trying to find a clean way to attach my post-filter to the chassis. What I came up with was this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84601&d=1524423156

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84602&d=1524423162

It's a roll-bar accessory clamp. My filter is 1.25" in diameter, and these clamps are available in various sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP5FP9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Yama-Bro]

Nice find! That will look good.

[Papa]

I got the filter and clamp mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84603&d=1524423325

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84604&d=1524423332

With a little persistence and help from Paul plus a little more scrutiny of the images in the assembly manual, I managed to get the e-brake handle installed and working. The part that was preventing my success before was the small groove cut unto the ratchet piece wouldn't slide over the frame piece. I just had to file the slot to enlarge it a bit and everything slid into place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84605&d=1524423340

With the clevis adjusted, the brake is fully engaged at about 1/2 the travel, which is exactly what I wanted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84606&d=1524423348

And finally, the handle position when the brake is disengaged.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84607&d=1524423356

I'm just waiting on my Koul Tool EZ-On Push-Lok Hose Press (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUQ0PI6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to arrive (supposed to be delivered today) and I'll start running those fuel lines.

[Papa]

I took a couple more pictures of the installed e-brake handle to try to provide enough detail to augment the FFR manual.

From the FFR manual:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84608&d=1524423499

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84609&d=1524423506

Notice the placement of the ratchet gear on the handle and how the front of the handle is under the frame while the rear of the handle is over the frame.

Here is a picture of my handle from inside the trans tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84610&d=1524423512

I haven't tightened up the clevis bolts yet because I want to fine tune the adjustment first and I am still considering routing the cables over the 4" tube like Paul did. Also note that with the Wilwood brakes, you need to install the extenders or the cables will be too short.

[GoDadGo]

I had to do a little tweaking with the handle too.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I was one of the first to get the FFR handle when I built a very early Mk4 for a customer---there were no instructions at all at that time so it was one of those "make it up as you go" deals! You've done much the same as I wound up doing on that and subsequent ones. It's not really one of their finest pieces of work IMHO.

Unless things have changed recently you will notice that unlike an OEM mechanism the ratchet notches and pawl are not hardened. Because of this in the interest of longevity I always recommend to my owners that they try to get into the habit of depressing the button to disengage the pawl when applying the brake then release it to lock the handle after it is raised rather than allowing it to "click-click-click" and ratchet which I feel would wear the unhardened teeth.

Build is looking great!

Jeff

[Papa]

... I always recommend to my owners that they try to get into the habit of depressing the button to disengage the pawl when applying the brake then release it to lock the handle after it is raised rather than allowing it to "click-click-click" and ratchet which I feel would wear the unhardened teeth. ...

Jeff

Great advice, Jeff. I've only pulled the handle a dozen or so times and you can already see the effects on the soft metal teeth.

[Ducky2009]

After looking at what I would need to do to move the handle further into the cockpit, it seems that the structure of the bracket is in the way. Here is what I'm thinking about doing to get the e-brake handle to fit and allow full range of motion. I'm considering cutting out the structure along the red dashed lines. I think the assembled e-brake handle should provide enough rigidity to just bolt it into the remaining portion, but if not, I can add a piece of 3/16 bar stock between the two sections (yellow dashed lines).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/37177907710_a725f2d880_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YDhuGN)

Any thought on this approach?

Papa, I didn't like the idea of cutting the cable ends and hand swedging new ends on, or using set screws to hold the cables. Didn't trust that the new ends swedged-on by hand method would hold up, so I made a bracket to allow using the cables as-is without cutting. Also didn't like the idea of bare cables running under the frame rail, but also didn't like the angle of the cables (in relation to the pulling force of the handle) if I ran them over the frame. In the end, the cable sheath under the frame rail was better, IMO. Using the bracket also allowed me to move the handle outward a little, allowing it to not rub the sheetmetal tunnel.

74871

[Papa]

Papa, I didn't like the idea of cutting the cable ends and hand swedging new ends on, or using set screws to hold the cables. Didn't trust that the new ends swedged-on by hand method would hold up, so I made a bracket to allow using the cables as-is without cutting. Also didn't like the idea of bare cables running under the frame rail, but also didn't like the angle of the cables (in relation to the pulling force of the handle) if I ran them over the frame. In the end, the cable sheath under the frame rail was better, IMO. Using the bracket also allowed me to move the handle outward a little, allowing it to not rub the sheetmetal tunnel.

74871

Mine is working fine now and I've decided to leave the cables as FF recommends, under the 4" frame. I didn't have to cut any of the ends off the cables either, and after one more adjustment today, I'm done with it unless something breaks.

Dave

[Papa]

Finally! This little gadget showed up today and it allowed me to run my fuel lines, well some of them anyway.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84611&d=1524423636

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84612&d=1524423643

I ran the return line from the regulator to the tank and the feed line from the tank to the filter. I'll run the remaining lines once the engine is in and I know how long to make them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84613&d=1524423650

[Papa]

I had to do a little tweaking with the handle too.

I'll bet you did with that giant transmission stuffed into the tunnel!

[rrrose]

You really need to stop finding all these cool little tools and being so helpful with the amazon links. Its literally 3 clicks and on its way. Too easy for $ out the door.
Great progress.
Ron

[Papa]

You really need to stop finding all these cool little tools and being so helpful with the amazon links. Its literally 3 clicks and on its way. Too easy for $ out the door.
Great progress.
Ron

Ron,

You are welcome to borrow mine if you like.

Dave

[rrrose]

Not sure I will need the fuel line tool, but if it comes up for sure. Thanks.
Ron

[Papa]

Today was a backward day in terms of progress. Last week I moved the car to my other garage in order to bring my tractor with the snow blade into a bay that would be easy to access if we got significant snow. I moved the MKIV on the dollies and when I hit the transition between asphalt and concrete, the dollies stopped, but the MKIV didn't. The dollies that stuck flipped up into the space between the rear tires and the cockpit. The passenger side wasn't too bad with just a few scuffs and a small ding, but the driver's side did a bit more damage. I spent the day today with a hammer and dolly getting the aluminum straightened out and the paint (bed liner spray) touched up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84614&d=1524423740

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84615&d=1524423748

Lesson learned - the dollies are great in the garage, but not so much between the garages.

[Papa]

Okay fellas, I need a sanity check. I think I'm ready to install the engine! I've never done this before, so please help me if I've overlooked something that should be done before the engine goes in.

I have the suspension installed.
I have the steering installed.
I have the brakes installed, bled, and working.
I have the fuel system installed (just need to run the main feed line once the engine is in place).
I have the electrical harnesses in place and the dash is wired.
I have the e-brake installed and working.
I've greased all the zerks front and rear.
I've filled the rear diff with fluid.
I have the battery installed (terminals are not connected) with the ground attached to the chassis and the positive cable run through the tunnel and up into the engine bay.
I have the throttle and clutch cables attached inside the foot box and ready to connect once the engine is installed.
The engine is complete minus the various sending units for water temp and oil pressure. EFI is installed and the harness is ready to make connections once installed.
The trans is installed on the engine and I've installed the speedo sensor block-off plug.

My headers and pipes are ordered, but I won't need those until first start.

Thanks for all the help to get me to this point! Please let me know if there is something else I should do before taking this big step as well as any hint/tips to make the install go smoothly. For example, I've been told that I should go ahead and install the transmission frame mount before the engine goes in.

Dave

[GoDadGo]

1. If you have an engine hoist that rolls, then tip the back of the car up about 12-14" so that you can slip the engine and transmission in without having to tip it up on the tail shaft.
2. Also, you do not install the transmission A-Frame until after you get the sucker in place so leave it alone, but keep in handy.
3. If you are from the South like me and don't have a hoist, then put some dollies under the rear wheels, block them up about the same height, and slide the car under the drive train.
4. It took us about 15 minutes to complete the task.

https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

Good Luck!

[rrrose]

Man that sucks that, that happened. You did well with the repair though.
Ron

[rrrose]

I have not done this before but I know I was the source of the install the transmission frame mount before the engine goes in. This was specifically talked about in the August build school and both Todd and Scott said to put it in first. The reason stated was it was much easier to access the bolts for the mount and get those tightened without having to work around the transmission. When we installed the engine at the school that trans frame mount was already in there and that 302 went in nice and smooth. It wasn't beat up either from the transmission hitting and scraping it.
I cant believe I am 2 weeks in with my kit and have the nerve to say something different than GoDadGo, what am I thinking :)

Now I am curious. What say those that have experience here, install the transmission frame mount before or after (per the manual)?
Ron

[rrrose]

I have not done this before but I know I was the source of the install the transmission frame mount before the engine goes in. This was specifically talked about in the August build school and both Todd and Scott said to put it in first. The reason stated was it was much easier to access the bolts for the mount and get those tightened without having to work around the transmission. When we installed the engine at the school that trans frame mount was already in there and that 302 went in nice and smooth. It wasn't beat up either from the transmission hitting and scraping it.
I cant believe I am 2 weeks in with my kit and have the nerve to say something different than GoDadGo, what am I thinking :)

Now I am curious. What say those that have experience here, install the transmission frame mount before or after (per the manual)?
Ron

[Mark Eaton]

I got the same message at the build school and the transmission frame was the first item I put on the chassis when it arrived. That being said, my whole approach to the build has changed since I started from "do it right the first time" to "put things on finger tight, adjust, take them off, put them back on, do it again, etc..."

In fact, I'm planning to put my engine in and take it out at least twice just to be more like edwardb. And if I have to do the same thing with the transmission mount so be it!

Mark

[Jeff Kleiner]

---Trans A frame after
---Position the chassis nose low, tail high as Go Dad stated
---Engine leveler makes it a 10 minute one man job

Cheers,
Jeff

[GoDadGo]

--
---Engine leveler makes it a 10 minute one man job

Cheers,
Jeff

15 if you are installing a Chevy!

[Jeff Kleiner]

15 if you are installing a Chevy!

:o

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

15 if you are installing a Chevy!

30 if its a Coyote with the headers already attached!

FWIW I found it a pain in the rear to get that transmission frame mount in after the motor was in place. Mainly because I was working on jack stands and crawling under the car laying on my back with minimal room to work. Had I been smart enough to think of it beforehand I would have tried that.

[Papa]

Two months ago I bought a 2-ton engine hoist at my local Harbor Freight. When I assembled it, I found that one of the casters was missing. I called the missing parts number in the manual and after waiting eight weeks for the part to arrive I got fed up and went back to the store to discuss options with the store manager. To my surprise, he pulled one out of a another box and gave it to me. I got it bolted on and not ten minutes later, the FedEx truck pulls up with a complete set of casters for my engine hoist. I called the store and explained that my parts arrived and the manager said not to worry about it. I was pleased to receive the great customer service, but wonder if this is why my box was missing parts?

Anyway, after finishing up with the hoist I installed my wiper motor and got it wired up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84616&d=1524423884

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84617&d=1524423891

Instead of drilling another hole in the padded dash, I decided to mount the wiper switch in the dash brace under the center of the dash. If all goes well, I will rarely ever need to use the wipers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84618&d=1524423899

[AC Bill]

Some poor guy will now buy the hoist, that's missing a caster, thanks to the generous store manager helping you out..:p Circle of life..lol

Remember to slide the cable guide nut down the cable, to the motor, before attaching the cable sleeves and wheel-box's...Major PIA otherwise..

I took my wipers off when the car went off for paint, and never put them back on again. I should keep the wipers/arms, in the trunk I suppose, just in case..:(