# 1002, SVTFreaks build. [Archive] - Page 2

Svtfreak

08-30-2019, 02:22 PM

Body work!

Front lower cone in place. Pain in the butt. Think it went in and out 30 times. I haven't decided final fastener yet. Either countersunk stainless or stainless rivets.
https://i.imgur.com/sPCOwOS.jpg

SON OF A B.....
https://i.imgur.com/3ncK0fu.jpg

Yep. Guess while upside down and on creeper, I drilled wrong place and too deep. Guess I need an aluminum welder before chrome time.

Used grommets to support hood sides. This will both set the gap and be bumpers for installation and removal. I was going to run the bolts through them but now I think I'd rather not have nuts so considering my options here. I know there are some rubber inserts with brass threaded nuts inside but I don't know what they are called to find them. Research time.
https://i.imgur.com/F6iNiUW.jpg

Hood side in place. Little fitting left and fasteners. Have to move my front brake like somewhere else.
Looking at this is like looking at a pic with a naked woman. Don't focus so much on the blower that you miss the reason I posted it. Or, just revel in the beauty of a twin screw. I dont blame you lol.
https://i.imgur.com/Q7cWbHa.jpg

I don't think the hood is gonna fit like I wanted it to, sparky. Guess I gotta stay considering how to put a hump that fits the overall smooth appearance I'm after.

FF33rod

08-30-2019, 02:32 PM

"Chin" looks great! how was the width? some complain it's a bit too wide and so they've split it to remove some material....

Svtfreak

08-31-2019, 02:54 PM

"Chin" looks great! how was the width? some complain it's a bit too wide and so they've split it to remove some material....

It was Def too wide and also twisted some, but I was able to work it out. I did this by starting on one side and working my way around the bottom and up the other side, it straightened out the twist and I think it's all gonna line up right. When I set the drivers side hood side in place will be the final test.

Svtfreak

09-19-2019, 01:06 PM

Last two weeks between doc appt and a work mates mother dying, I haven't had any shop time. Got out there today and got the passenger side hood mounted. Had the bottom held in with bolts from the top into well nuts and found out that that just ain't practical. So I started over. Put the well nuts in the hood sides and the bolts will go up from the bottom. When they are off, it'll leave a hole, I'll prolly get some little plugs to put in for those times painted body color. Otherwise, waiting for the epoxy to cure filling the holes in tbe bottom since they are too big now for the bolts. I am off all next week so hope to get quite a bit accomplished.

Hood side with well nut in it just so I have a photo. More details once mounting is all finalized so I can copy on drivers side.

https://i.imgur.com/WsvDmGt.jpg

Svtfreak

09-23-2019, 05:42 PM

Worked on good side today. Got it mounted up and gap set. But I’m having a decision crisis. I had planned on having them optional but the head light mount makes it not so easy to install and remove. So now I’m thinking about making a trim piece in the front to hide the grill side and stuff and leave it open. Or make it removable around the headlight mount somehow, but i fear this will leave an unsightly body component. I need to choose quickly. I decided to move on to the hood and then I can pull it out and decide with the hood in place. It would be nice to see all the under hood finish work I’ll be doing, paint and hoses and such. But it goes against the very sleek slick look I am after.

Either way, the well nuts are trimmed to set the gap and side installed, bolts from bottom, so they are accessible.
https://i.imgur.com/OpTJzSg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5wMmV99.jpg

And it in place after. Still some fine tuning to do but gonna wait till I decide how to proceed.
https://i.imgur.com/3TbmYPV.jpg

FF33rod

09-23-2019, 05:51 PM

Looks great! I sympathize with the decision you're facing. I've seen build threads where the headlight mount was modified so it was separate from the side piece. I haven't got a bookmark for any though...

AJT '33

09-24-2019, 07:58 AM

Ran into a similar issue/decision when I was setting up the front side panels and ended up making a reversible jig I could set into the side cover panel to allow the front portion that attaches to the grill to stay in place. Then I used 10/32 Rivnuts with washers on the backside of the glass on the body side so I could remove the side panel and leave just the rivnut showing with a machine screw in it painted burnt copper. Once all the primer and paint was applied the gap was less than 1mm. What to do on the front end where the headlight attaches was the hardest decision from the practical and aesthetic side of the car. Here's a couple pics of that area, maybe give you some ideas.
114822 114823 114824 114825
Good luck!!

Svtfreak

09-24-2019, 01:18 PM

AJ, I’m actually thinking about doing something very similar right now.

But first, hood bump! Here you can see how far up the hood is before I did anything. It’s sitting on the supercharger
https://i.imgur.com/AsSlGcd.jpg

First thing I did was cut out the liner where it would hit.
https://i.imgur.com/XOXMbHP.jpg

This is how far it dropped just from that.
https://i.imgur.com/Gt4DyVB.jpg[img]

Now to layout where i want the bump and how i want it shaped. I tried a couple shapes before settling on this one with some input from friends.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/4UnyGqy.jpg

Cut it out, trimmed the edge to give what will be the final product some slope on the edges down to the hood, made a little bracket to hold the front at the right height. This actually makes it not a smooth slope front to back but keeps the front low and not up too high. Here it’s still sitting on the spacers sitting on the blower.
https://i.imgur.com/gAB02Oo.jpg

Here, we see daylight! I slid a piece of all thread across the back to give it some support. After I took it off, I also slid a 1/2x1 across to airport the middle. That’ll keep the shape right while I get enough glass in to keep the shape. I’ll touch up where those supports are after the first bit cures and I check fit again.
https://i.imgur.com/uVeAtqB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ha2jGm4.jpg

1932

09-24-2019, 03:29 PM

Nice I know how it is to things to work--But look good in our minds.

AJT '33

09-24-2019, 04:10 PM

Nicely done and worked out.

I actually bought the raised hood as I did not know if I would have a supercharger or something that might take up the space should I go in that direction. Are you OK in how to glass this together, techniques and tricks? Just dont think you need to do it all at once, glass is forgiving so do a section at a time, let it dry hard and it will make your life easier and if you decide to adjust anything you can without tearing the whole thing apart! ;)

Svtfreak

09-24-2019, 05:46 PM

Thanks AJ! I almost did but I really wanted to keep it smooth. I saw the supercharged 3V motor they did for FRPP. I was hoping the coyote would work but knew I would have to do otherwise if it didn’t.

Yessir, I intend to do exactly that. I’m gonna do the front of the slot and the front flat by itself then see how it lays down after I remove the bracing I have shoved in. Then I’ll go from there. I may have to find some creative bracing to keep it in place. I’m going to use foam insulation board to create the negative on the outside and lay the mat in from the under side. Hopefully, the resin will lay up fairly smooth against the foam (I’ll layer smooth clear tape over it to give a smooth finish). Then I’ll fill the corners as needed to shape it and bond it well. I hope. Lol. I’ve done some creative glass work before but never on something that the finished product I wanted to be mirror smooth.

sethmark

09-24-2019, 07:04 PM

Looks great. Very subtle and aggressive.

Svtfreak

09-25-2019, 12:57 PM

Thanks y’all!

Here we go! Made up some foam plugs the shape I want it to be to fill in the openings. Taped them on real well, flipped her over and layed in some glass. When this cures, I’ll remove the bracing and see how far what moves and how I’ll deal with that if I need to.
https://i.imgur.com/vvSGKct.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/z70n8Fi.jpg
This is the underside ready to glass
https://i.imgur.com/ee4dsIp.jpg
Two layers of glass in. The rest of the layers will go on the outside and build up to shape the edges like I want.
https://i.imgur.com/QGbJS7U.jpg

Then I moved back to the side Panels. Decided that if I do even run the sides, I want them removable easily without messing with lights. So I cut and made the trim piece for the radiator side on pass side. I like the way it turned out. Still wanna curve the bottom a bit more. Now i have plenty time to decide weather to do the rest of the panels and make them meet up to these and make then easily removeable.
https://i.imgur.com/rJ9IRD7.jpg

AJT '33

09-25-2019, 02:03 PM

Svtfreak

09-25-2019, 04:19 PM

You can take some foam and cut it to fit between the top of the hood and the inside of the hood liner to fill the gap and also use it to get your base shape before glassing it all together.
Nice job!!

Hey I didn’t think of that! Great idea. I’m gonna do exactly that and use it to give some shape to the edge also. Thanks, AJ!

Svtfreak

09-27-2019, 03:22 PM

First thing this morning, I pulled off the other foam blocks and see what we got. Success i think! The basic shape is there and looks good.

https://i.imgur.com/VcYfxRS.jpg

Now, I roughed up the front and the back sides, broke the gel coat a bit farther and layed down 3 layers of glass mat on each side. This should start forming the radius at the bottom corner and give me enough thickness to grind out the radius at the top corner. Sorry for photo of top being vertical. Took them both after finished.
https://i.imgur.com/ON60YT7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QxaUG6S.jpg

While it was curing enough to turn it over, I worked on the drivers trim panel. On the other side I noticed the angle of the panel don’t match the hood, so on this side I cut angled spacers for the headlight mounts to set the angle to match the slope of the car better. In second photo, you can see them. This was an after thought, so later I’ll remake them to be one piece with the spacer. Still have to fine tune the gap and where it meets the nose cone. That panel fit there is terrible. Not sure what I’m gonna do but prolly have to build up the nose cone top with glass.
https://i.imgur.com/zj75tRI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8fwirTG.jpg

And there went my whole week off lol. Not as much as I wanted to get done. But got a good start on the hood bump. Prolly work on sanding and shaping it this week on my day’s off

Svtfreak

10-02-2019, 03:15 PM

Today I tackled glassing the outer skin to the inner skin. I cut and shaped foam to fill the gap and give a nice sloped edge. Wrapped it with clear tape and glued it in. That foam will be there permanently.
https://i.imgur.com/prXbZCy.jpg

Then I laid down 2 layers of matting all the way around. This should get me close enough that filler will complete the shape of it. One more glass job to do hopefully tomorrow then it’ll be on to shaping and filling it to see how it’s gonna turn out. Can’t wait to put some primer on it to see how it’ll look.
https://i.imgur.com/OSBj4UY.jpg

I really need to take a day off and clean the shop. But my already limited time makes me not want to. I think I’m gonna get 2 days I counted in October? Between overtime, training, doc appts and kids field trips. I’m usually off 14 days a month and can work 10 of those. Ain’t been happening. Wish I could get back to that.

Svtfreak

10-03-2019, 12:28 PM

After checking the tightest spot for amount of clearance (yay for baby girls pink play doh lol), I sanded down the fiberglass today and applied a good layer of filler. Since I’m using 3M platinum plus, it needs to cure awhile. I think I’m gonna take the rest of the day off. Well, after I fix an oops....
https://i.imgur.com/PgNUQsR.jpg
I still have some filler work to do on top, but the bottom is ready to start smoothing the entire surface
https://i.imgur.com/WsUWmG6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/r1YgqGK.jpg

It dawned on me this morning, on the passenger side trim panel, I left a radius at the top and in driver side, I cut it straight up. While cutting the pass side would have been much easier, I decided to add the radius to the driver side. I cut the part off, beveled the edges good and cut increasingly wider glass strips to glue them back together. Most of the meat is in the back but I’ll do the front next and smooth it all out. To quote one of my guys at work “you are one of the stupidest smart guys I know”. Lol. Yeah, I don’t think I’m that smart, and sometimes I prove myself right.
https://i.imgur.com/KK1FFqZ.jpg

Back to work tomorrow, and got a lot to do next couple weeks so prolly won’t get much done until early November.

Svtfreak

10-16-2019, 02:29 PM

Skimmed the hood bump outside last week and took it down. Today, I roughed up the top and made me a filler squeegee out of lexan. The ruler gives it some support. Used that to skim the top and give it a good curve shape across it so it’s not pool table flat. After it cures, and I get more filler, I’ll sand it smooth and the. Touch up the imperfections. Used the excess to touch up the round bottom corners. After this, it should be really close to final. Since i have some overtime to work next couple weeks, I hope to maybe get this done next Monday on the outside then finish up the inside.

https://i.imgur.com/UMaskoP.jpg

Svtfreak

11-04-2019, 04:05 PM

Still more hood hump work. But I think it’s done on the top aide save for final skin coat and primer.

These photos after sanding and shooting a little rattle can enamel primer to see what it looked like.
https://i.imgur.com/LhwnuYE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IWn7UPe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YDmJhun.jpg

What you can’t see well on top photos is that the edges are not straight and the radius of the bottom isn’t the same side to side. So I took some high spots down and filled some low areas and got them the same side to side. It also offset the typical FFR center-isn’t-the-center problems. Now, it looks centered.
https://i.imgur.com/970PQVy.jpg

Then i flipped her over, finished cleaning up the first coat of filler to smooth the bottom side and threw some more in to start skimming and filling small imperfections. Most of the bottom don’t have to be perfect since it’ll have insulation but the center area above the blower will be exposed to it needs to be slick.
https://i.imgur.com/l5ywTC3.jpg

This hood is almost ready to let me move on. Gotta finish fitting the nose cone, trim panels, and trunk. Finish building the blower inlet and get a tube, build my bench seat, console and door panels then it’s about time to take it apart for paint.

Svtfreak

11-13-2019, 03:47 PM

It was too cold to open the shop and sand filler today. So took a break on the hood. I started building my seat frame. 1/2” x 12” thick wall tubing. After lots of thought and measure and more thought, and sitting on plywood with some foam, here is the basic frame for the seat bottoms. One is 1/2” too long on one leg. I’ll shorten it next week

https://i.imgur.com/b7Hi1Kt.jpg

This is in the car, but it’s too high and too far back. It’ll fall in front the seatbelt tabs

https://i.imgur.com/EBxaTGW.jpg

But I ran into a problem here. My goal was the back would drop in on hangers on the upper 2x2 cross tube, then bolt at the bottom and the bottom would slide under and bolt down. But there was no way to get to the bolts then where they would have to fall. So after lots of thought, I went over to a local upholstery shop to get some ideas. Dude is good, and his dad builds cars and did upholstery for years. He suggested I do the back exactly as planned but with a metal frame screwed to a wood form that the cushion and springs are on. Then the bottom frame would bolt in by itself. Then he showed me how to make a wood drop in using elastic webbing to provide the spring on bottoms and back. I’m really glad I went to see him. The ideas he gave me will allow me to shape it easier how I want and the metal frame will just provide support. So what I have will still work!

So, until I go get some plywood and find the elastic webbing, I started working on the waterfall. No real progress yet other than I found part of the reason it wasn’t shaping and laying in right. It was hitting the frame corners at the door hinges. Started fitting that up then came in to cook dinner for the wife.

Among all this, it was 23* this morning (way too cold for this coonass). And my shop was 45*. While not miserable, I don’t work well when cold. Plus, my welding hood died. Then I ran out of metal for the seat. So I was delayed a bit and had to run and get a heater (yay!), hood and metal. Next week, I have vacation (I actually leave Monday morning from work and don’t go back till like December 5th or so) and hope to get a whole lot done. I have steel, some wood to start first versions, and there’s always the hood sides, trunk and blower inlet to work on. I hope to tackle a lot of that.

Sorry for the ramble. I’m excited to be working on something with real, visible end value again!

Svtfreak

11-19-2019, 02:08 PM

After lots of fitting, looking, mirrors and flashlight, I figured out that the problem with my waterfall was the radius of the curve on the drivers side wasn’t right. It was too curved on the fall. That was causing everything to pull out of whack. So I pie cut it, and glassed it back up. This made it fit a whole lot better. Got it bolted in with some rivnuts and pretty little bolts. That was a big source of frustration for me out of the way now.

https://i.imgur.com/Z6S5OJG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YYDV01q.jpg

Next, I worked on the seat back frame. The idea is to have it all one piece and it will slide down into brackets the bolt in at the bottom. Then the seat bottom frames bolt in, and the actual material and foam will drop in. This should make all fasteners nice and hidden.

Here’s the brackets that tabs will slide into
https://i.imgur.com/QAFDG9y.jpg

Got the basic seat back frame built and dropped into place. Nothing is bolted yet. I want to put the top on and sit in it first. Everything can be fine tuned with spacers for up and down and foam but it all has to be close. I think I’m gonna bring the frame up higher to support the seat back also.

https://i.imgur.com/WLOG3fF.jpg

1932

11-19-2019, 03:00 PM

Looks good. For me head room with top on is not a problem, but being able to see the traffic lights or up is. So if you will be running the top, set seat so you can see out with top on.

Svtfreak

11-20-2019, 02:30 PM

Thanks, 1932 (sorry, I am terrible at remember what real names go with user names lol). I played with it today and the seat height difference doesn’t make a whole lot of difference when it comes to red lights. I’m 6’2” so it’s gonna be hard no matter how low. So I went with driving comfort and picked it up just a touch. When the top is on, I’ll just stop way way way back lol!

Today, first thing I did was put the top on and mimick several different seating positions. Once I figured out what i liked, the top came off and I finished making and tacking up the seat frames. Decided to tie the back to the bottoms for support. The bottom frames will go in first l, following by the seat back (which will have the foam and material on it), then the center frame, then the 3 parts that make up the seating surface and “arm rest/center pad”. If it comes out like I am envisioning, I think it’ll look good and be real comfy. Tomorrow, I may try to start on the wood parts.

https://i.imgur.com/4buJ2yA.jpg

Svtfreak

11-21-2019, 01:41 PM

Built the wood seat bottoms and back today. Inserts fit just great. Still have to set up the webbing but not while I’m in and out a lot. Got the drivers side filler for the back side done with plenty extra material. The interior guy can final shape that to kinda match the waterfall. I envision the front side seat back kinda following the curve also.
https://i.imgur.com/MOiTrGm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3QJBUco.jpg

Svtfreak

11-22-2019, 01:06 PM

Today, I made the filler part for passenger side then changed my mind. Took them both out. Gonna let the interior dude figure the best way to do it when the time comes.

I sat in the passenger side and marked where the tailbone fell. Cut out the area, radiused the edges well so it wouldn’t cut the web, and webbed it with 2” elastic webbing material. Used 2 flat bars and vice grips to pull it tight to staple it.
Layed our the first ones
https://i.imgur.com/PTP0AfV.jpg
Stapled them along one side and the top. Then pulled every other one up, layed the side down, then pulled tide down and the others up until all cross ones where tight and staples. Then pulled the long ways ones tight and stapled.
https://i.imgur.com/0NsPTW0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ok5Vuur.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/y4g0MD8.jpg
Once done, when finger tapped, it sounds like a drum.
https://i.imgur.com/CsoUPzE.jpg
Tested it out. Sat in the car and thought “wow, I can’t feel a difference. That kinda sucks”. But then I sat in the driver side to mark it and realized that it’s a huge difference.
Went ahead and cut out the driver side and seat back at pressure areas and radiused the edges. Had to call it a day to head to school for the kiddos thanksgiving lunch.
https://i.imgur.com/ucKvyj7.jpg

Svtfreak

12-02-2019, 04:45 PM

Got the blower inlet finished today. Primed up the fuel system and set the pressure. Then I made a couple aluminum plates to protect the waterfall, whatever finish I decide to do on it, when putting the tabs in and sliding the seat back down. Also called power by the hour and got set up with an NGage device and Lund to do the tune for the blower. It should be ready to run and drive up and down the street again when it gets here. https://i.imgur.com/c3XOvsa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GL8IJ2I.jpg

Svtfreak

12-03-2019, 02:25 PM

Cut patterns and then cut out the door panels. Typical ffr fashion, they are not mirror images side to side. The cut the patterns and started on the console. Trying to keep it as low a profile as possible just enough to hide the shifter parts. The boot will cover a large chunk of the chunky top section. The console front vertical oart will house the ac controls and center vents.
Patterns!
https://i.imgur.com/0yCmAfY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TvKdZH2.jpg

Parts!
https://i.imgur.com/AJCCfLJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4kZQJTY.jpg

Assembling the console and making cross braces. Now that the basic shape is done, it’s time to mount it to finish it up. But, that’s enough for today. My 3 weeks off netted good progress. I hope when i get back to work, things are normal and i can continue this next week.
https://i.imgur.com/miGZSk5.jpg

FF33rod

12-03-2019, 02:40 PM

Looking good
Steve

Svtfreak

12-06-2019, 03:48 PM

Finally got the webbing and staples to finish the seat webbing. Also, after some thought, I didn’t like the idea of using wood screws to hold the back to the frame. They are not known to stay put especially when taken out and put back in a few times. So I went and got some T-Nuts and long machine screws and installed them. Now I can redo as often as needed and I will loctite them on final assembly. While I was at it (no pic) I remade one of the 2x2 braces to fit the frame better for better support.
https://i.imgur.com/Uhr4oEP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/flas4s1.jpg

Svtfreak

12-11-2019, 03:29 PM

Finished up putting the seats in today. Then i loaded up the Lund Supercharger tune. After a serious backfire, it fired right up and idles nicely. She’s a little slow on the initial start but it hoping that works itself out as the ecu learns. Then we went for a ride. Holy beetleguise, the trans is too tight. Pushing through the brakes bad, pushing the car when front end locked up and spinning tires when not. I’ve emailed about setting the trans cal back completely like stock. It was perfect that way since the car is so light. Then I set the hood on it for a little look-see out in the light and a photo to make my mind up on side panels or not.
https://i.imgur.com/3kLbGkL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QGomoO8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qa8WC4d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9Ion9yG.jpg

Svtfreak

02-26-2020, 12:39 PM

Been a bit. For those who haven’t seen my other thread. Having some trans trouble. Had some brake trouble. While the body was off changing master cylinder, I’m doing some things I been wanting to do. The valve body for my trans is at the shop now. He’s checking it out but we are pretty certain is the converter dragging. Once he opens the filter, we should have a better idea. Meantime, today I straightened all the body edges, and trimmed them back to a more appealing width. Also, I drilled and tapped for locating bolts for the door hinges. I’m going to remove them for body installation and removal from now on to hopefully make it a little easier.
https://i.imgur.com/0Y1rING.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/R3EmA3q.jpg

For those that didn’t see, this was in my trans pan on the magnet. After just a couple of miles, literally only like 3 or 4, and a total of about 25 more minutes running in gear on jack stands, neither of us think this should be here. There is also a light dusting of it in the pan before I cleaned it. It is ferrous.

https://i.imgur.com/byajCDx.jpg

Svtfreak

02-28-2020, 11:35 AM

While I’m waiting on my valve body, I filled the old gas cap place that wasn’t working so well. I decided I want to flush mount it, so I thickened up the area with 5 more layers of mat. It’s kinda cool today so I got a heat lamp going to help kick it off.
https://i.imgur.com/cIpCthV.jpg

Trans dude had called and I went to get it, but when I got there, he had researched more and found that to properly test the valves, he needed some little tools. He had used12v and blew through them but couldn’t be certain on one (the torque converter one to be exact) that it was working right. Said if I had time, he would test them again with the right tools. Of course i have time. I’d love to find a problem and not have to pull the motor!

Svtfreak

04-08-2020, 06:40 PM

Long break. I’m sure I could have found something to do, but decided to take a break and wait on the new converter. Elected to try a yank 3400. But they had some supply issues with the virus and all so it took him a bit to get it built and to me. Then work changed my schedule so had to wait. Started tearing it apart today. I made a plate to bolt to the blower intake so I can lift it evenly. I’m going to pull only the motor. Had a little help at one point. Pics only of plate and help. We’ve all seen motors pulled and installed lol. Hopefully I’ll have time to get it out and back in with new converter tomorrow. Working around all 3 kids and wife being home so not working all day. Taking this time to also spend time with them.

https://i.imgur.com/4mhFSY8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kjATA37.jpg

JimLev

04-08-2020, 06:57 PM

What's a yank 3400?
Thanks for some converter update, I've been wondering what happened.

Svtfreak

04-09-2020, 12:25 PM

Jim, life happens lol. Yank is the brand, 3400 is the advertised stall speed. It’s their power adder series. After talking to a few people, including one with a cobra with a 6r80, who had similar problems, I elected that route.

Got the motor out, converter swapped and motor back in. Lining it up was actually pretty easy. Went slow, leveled it with the leveler to get the flanges parallel, eased it back, got one bolt started, pulled up the other side to twist it around and it fell into place. I think I’m young to do it that way on final assembly when everything is painted. Just a couple pics for fun
https://i.imgur.com/K0jpQ4X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hBokkpi.jpg

Svtfreak

04-10-2020, 06:33 PM

Got it all back in and buttoned up today. It turned over but wouldn’t start. Then stopped even sending the start signal to the starter. Frustrated. Posted more details over in the coyote forum.

Svtfreak

04-13-2020, 02:20 PM

After lots of checking plugs and checking +12 and grounds with key on/off and all kinds of checks, and pulling the +12 to the ecu and clearing it out, I elected to try to reload the factory tune to the computer. And the dadgum thing turned over and backfired. So, thinking something was out of whack maybe (a sensor) and knowing it would have a better chance of running with the blower tune, I put it back in. Still backfired. In the process I heard the fuel pump suck a little air so I added some fuel to the tank. She sputtered and cussed but finally fired up and smoothed right on out. Topped off coolant and trans fluid. I can stop it with the brakes with a good leg force on jack stands so next step is to go drive it and hopefully I have this mess done and can regain my motivation and move on!

Svtfreak

04-14-2020, 01:10 PM

Alright. I let it sit overnight and fired it up to make sure it’s learning and doing fine. Yep. Fired right up. Even with the KAM’s still learning. So a new first start. Mid next week I’ll get it cleaned out and go for a ride then hopefully get to moving on forward! I’ll prolly put off my goal of wanting to be painting later this year in favor of going ahead and doing. Take upgrades before then to ensure it’s gonna drive just right just in case i need to restall the converter to fine tune it.

https://i.imgur.com/ReIXOXB.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/ReIXOXB.mp4

sethmark

04-14-2020, 01:28 PM

Cool! Sounds great. I love your car. The screw is awesome.

Svtfreak

04-15-2020, 07:30 AM

Thanks Seth! And yes the open element and lack of sound deadening allows you to hear the screw much better than in my mustang. It’s not as apparent as older, smaller whipples that spun much faster but still adds a nice layer of sound.

Svtfreak

04-23-2020, 10:56 AM

Got it on her own feet and went for a ride. The 3400 is still just a touch tight, but once warm, everything worked great! No more pushing through the brakes or spinning tires when stopped! Lesson learned. Now to move on! The list of things to do before paint is getting shorter.

McGuyver

04-23-2020, 09:52 PM

That is great news!

Svtfreak

04-24-2020, 08:05 AM

That is great news!

Haha yes it is. Thanks!

Took it for a second ride and took my 3 year old son with me this time.

Svtfreak

04-24-2020, 05:49 PM

Started working on a new shifter mount today. Rather than mounted to the trans tunnel, I want to get it lower. So I’m mounting it on the trans and at an angle so the bracket will be lower in the back. I fabricated the front bracket today. This is before I finished welding it. It’s just tacked up right now. After welding it out, it’s pretty solid. But i don’t like the back hanging loose. Enough pull on the shifter and it’s gonna contact the driveshaft. So I took a break while I ponder the rear support. I can kinda go back forward with it, but I don’t like how the angle would be and still might be bendable with enough force. Or I can go down, in front of the flange and weld tabs on the cross member that’s bolted to the trans. That is how I’m leaning but I’m gonna sleep on it before I decide for sure.

It sure is nice, after months and months of nagging problems, to be able to go out, start it up and putt down the street.

https://i.imgur.com/iENu0mk.jpg

RoadRacer

04-25-2020, 07:40 AM

Maybe create a thin driveshaft hoop at that point, and attach to that?

JimLev

04-25-2020, 11:39 AM

https://i.imgur.com/iENu0mk.jpg

I used an L-bracket from the back right side of the shifter down to the frame.
I only took one pic from the drivers side, but you can see how I did it.

127181

Svtfreak

04-26-2020, 07:59 AM

I used an L-bracket from the back right side of the shifter down to the frame.
I only took one pic from the drivers side, but you can see how I did it.

127181

Are you worrried about the transmission moving a bit in respect to the frame and eventually fatigue cracking/breaking something?

Maybe create a thin driveshaft hoop at that point, and attach to that? I worked on it a few minutes yesterday and am envisioning something that is kind of along those lines. Plan now is weld two tabs to the trans mount so it can all move with the trans and bolt two braces to that that go up and support the shifter. It’s a developing work now but I hope to finish it tomorrow.

Svtfreak

04-27-2020, 12:31 PM

Finished up the shifter mount. Welded two tabs to the trans crossmember and the mount brace bolts to those. It’s rock solid, out of the way of the driveshaft flange and the wiring will be easy to keep out of it also. Then I cut out the tunnel for it. Since this pic, I trimmed the cable stay down and gonna patch up the slit I cut in the tunnel. Now it sits slightly lower, the bracing and cable stay will now not need to be bezeled and trimmed around. Should make it look cleaner for the final assembly.
https://i.imgur.com/Sz9kCyK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FeioukT.jpg

Svtfreak

05-12-2020, 02:25 PM

So, with the changes to my master cylinder and such, my brake pedal was WAY too high and always been too close to the gas pedal, which is as close as comfortable to the tunnel.
https://i.imgur.com/zBIkJBL.jpg
I started by making a cardboard shape to the rough shape I wanted the new pedal to be. I cut the wilwood one and made some inserts from steel for both side and threaded all the way through to spread the force put evenly and not concentrated on any spot of the aluminum. I thought about building a whole new pedal but elected to try this first.
https://i.imgur.com/wxdVdSf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fRvNToi.jpg

Next, I made the pedal extension part and bolted it on.
https://i.imgur.com/WFXGJCY.jpg

Next, I cut it in two places and angled it over to where I wanted it. Figured wgeee I wanted the pad and welded a plate on for it. Drilled and tapped, installed pad. I probably will have to change the end to match whatever pedal I choose later on (when I get and install my final gas pedal also). It is now in a much better place, almost identical to my wife’s fusion (which I measured and used for a target) both height and distance from gas pedal.
https://i.imgur.com/rLJprRO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Tfpas7D.jpg

Much better!

Still have some tweaking to do. One of the bolt hits the tab on the gas pedal. Might have to love it like 1/8”. The other bolt may it the steering column bolt. If so, I’ll redrill and tap in a new spot for that one. Shouldn’t be an issue.

I’ve put a decent force on it so far with no flexing even, so I think itll be just fine.

For anyone wondering, I couldn’t just move the gas pedal out because I am 6’2” and want as much leg room as I can get. I maybe should have kept the dual MC’s when I ditched the power brake system but I’ve cut so much of the pedal box moving stuff around. Oh well, it’s gonna be just perfect when done!

Svtfreak

05-13-2020, 10:14 AM

I moved the gas pedal over just 1/4” today to make a little more room for travel. And went for a test. I’m able to make front tire smoke pretty easy! Now back to body work. Waiting on a tool to get here to flush mount my gas cap before body goes back on. Then it’ll be onward!

Svtfreak

05-14-2020, 11:57 AM

Counter sunk the gas filler today.
This shows the thickened glass I did awhile back. I cut the main diameter with a 3 7/8” hole saw, not all the way through. Then thinner it like I did awhile back on the cowl access panels. A dremel with a sheet rock depth limiter.
https://i.imgur.com/O4uy5i6.jpg

Filler set in the hole. I’ll have to do some detail work around the edge to clean up the fitting.
https://i.imgur.com/imjXBve.jpg

And a side view to see how it sits nearly flush. Maybe up just a ever so slight touch. But looks a lot cleaner than just sitting up on the body. I’ve searched all over and can’t find a cap that I like better than the ffr one. So I’ll probably take it apart and have the visible parts chromed. It’s not pulled all the way down in the photo. Sits a little wonky. I still have a spot or two to take down just a touch more.
https://i.imgur.com/WY1xMQA.jpg

Svtfreak

05-19-2020, 06:33 PM

Got the main body back on today!

https://i.imgur.com/QZuO6On.jpg

Svtfreak

05-22-2020, 04:21 PM

Got the doors back on today drovers is being a little wonky. I’ll have to get on that next week. Ordered the gen 2 hood hinges, Tim Whittaker’s trunk bracing and struts and the pins to set up the select shift for the 6r80 today also. I also need more resin.....

https://i.imgur.com/7YyaypV.jpg

Alan_C

05-31-2020, 07:14 PM

Svtfreak

06-02-2020, 12:14 PM

Been piddling lately. Gen 2 hinges came but was wrong ones. Ffr getting right ones to me. Working on seat mounts but more on that later.
Big update is Tim Whittaker’s trunk lid bars. Got the height set right with bumpers and spacers. He said this was real important. Got it dadgum close.
https://i.imgur.com/HtQTlut.jpg

These pics taken later on but you can see how the bars set in. I used a single acrew into it on each side to hold in place. I got them close to the skin edge and used silica thickener in the vinylesther resin to helpprevent it from dripping out. I made sure and got the holes all good and full of resin and painted it nice and thick on the trunk and the bar. I also cut across the x to allow it to flex some. The hole is there I’m going to form a plug to bind the skins together better later.
https://i.imgur.com/ygbkMG6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cNfN1qf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/A8AO69F.jpg
Next, I put it on. Since mine has a little too much curve to it, it was high in the middle. Had to get creative in how to hold that down while the resin cures.
https://i.imgur.com/IStuYqU.jpg

got it curing now with heat on it. To help cute and to help the skin relax a little and hopefully take the perfect shape.

Svtfreak

06-02-2020, 12:17 PM

Thanks for the idea on the shifter mount. I will likely follow your lead and do something similar. I am putting the Coyote and 6R80 into a 1970 Mach 1 and I did not like they idea of mounting the shifter to the tunnel.

Any ideas as to shielding the shifter assembly from road debris?

Have you worked out the shifter wiring to the ECM as yet and verified it works? I have the ECM wiring info from Ford Performance, but I have not progressed to the wiring stage on my car as yet.

Hey Alan. I haven’t and honestly haven’t thought about that. I’ll take a look at that when I’m back working on that area. I have an off the cuff idea though now that you mention it.

As far as shifting, I’m told it works and is already in there just need the wires. PBH sells the pins to add to the ecu. I have them just waiting on the right wire (all I had was 12 awg and I want to add it into the ecu body harness so that was just too big. I ordered some 18 awg). It should be a pretty easy thing. I’ll let you know as soon as I do. Hopefully next week if that storm In the gulf dont screw up Monday. If not Monday, it’ll be a little bit. I’ll have to take a break to take care of the wife for a couple weeks. But I do have the pins and the wire coming so it won’t be long before I get to that.

Svtfreak

06-05-2020, 03:52 PM

Here we go! Making the select shift of the frpp controls pack for 6r80 work.

I ordered the pins to add from power by the hour. It comes with the placement instructions. I soldered 3 wires colors to the pins and pigtails provided and shrink wrapped them.
https://i.imgur.com/FIIT1nW.jpg
Next, unplug the body harness from the ecu. This is the one that goes to the black box with relays and fuses. Looks like this from the plug side
https://i.imgur.com/L11upYP.jpg
Cut the tape and unwrap. Remove the strain relief cover by pinching the sides and popping out.
https://i.imgur.com/kpm8KuX.jpg
If you look at the back of the plug now, and look in the location 22 and 23, you can see the plastic plugs that have to come out. The plug is marked with the PIN numbers at the ends and you have to count over from there. Using a pick, gently pry the white front off the plug.
https://i.imgur.com/rGoO17B.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/riqV98O.jpg
[img]https://i.imgur.com/MntjwdM.jpg

Svtfreak

06-05-2020, 03:55 PM

Next, use a pick from the front and push the plastic pins out of the back enough to grab them in the 3 positions noted in instructions. Then pull them on out.
https://i.imgur.com/HGgaFtt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pBeULUk.jpgNow, you insert the new pins in the same orientation that all the other pins are. The spring pressure tab should be facing the same way. Push each one in until it clicks. I think it’ll only go in one way. Finished, it looks like this and they should be flush with the front.
https://i.imgur.com/fLScIDj.jpg
Reinstall the white front cover, the black strain relief in the back, running the new wires in the harness. Tape it all back up. You can then decide how to run the 3 new wires to your switches. I went along the body harness (I will put it in the harness when I pull it all out for paint) and will jump out where it goes into the car and run a new loomed leg to the switches. You can use any switches you want. Console mounted momentary buttons or even some sort of paddle on the wheel.

I fired it up and tested and seems it’s working great on the jack stands. One day I’ll go try it out in the street.

Svtfreak

06-08-2020, 05:57 PM

Today, I reinforced the trunk lid some. I didn’t like how much flex there was between the inner and outer skins, really letting that outer move a lot. So I cut 4 holes, sanded the edges to give it some slope to the edges and made some wood plugs. I used resin and glued those plugs in, and reglassed over the tops of the plugs to affix the inner and outer skins together. I patched up the spot in the X that I cut to allow it to relax. While I had it out and was glassing, I used some 1/4” chopped filler to complete filling in Tim Whittaker’s trunk braces.
https://i.imgur.com/8ssScr3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HyBMMFe.jpg

progmgr1

06-09-2020, 04:34 AM

Tim W. recommended something similar. He filled plastic pipe sections with epoxy and then bonded them in place with HSRF or similar. The idea being that everything would have similar coefficient of expansion. I will probably do something similar when I get to that point.
Keith HR #894

Svtfreak

06-11-2020, 09:13 AM

I did paint the plugs with resin so moisture stays out. I did a 23 t bucket years ago and I reinforced the whole body with wood strips and slats and didn’t have any trouble. I like the pipe plug idea.

Actually, Tim W. gave me the idea to do it.

Svtfreak

06-30-2020, 03:01 PM

Today, I built a relay box for controlling my second fuel pump, intercooler pump and low temp cooler fans. I didn’t want relays and all just hanging around so I did this with terminal strips to have 2 powers, one ground, signal from ecu and signal from the Hobbs switch in the Intake. Then there is 3 power outlets. One for the fuel pump, one for the fans and one for the ic pump.

Here’s the box internals.
https://i.imgur.com/gIoLELA.jpg

The Hobbs switch in the intake. The wires will get added to existing loom when I pull it apart for paint.
https://i.imgur.com/samSph9.jpg

I had a hard time calibrating the switch to 2.5 psi. It would pressure up way too fast. So I made a resevoir with pipe I had laying around to slow down the rate it pressured up and allow me to get it just right.
https://i.imgur.com/eP0VD8d.jpg

Then it just got too hot so I called it a day.

I do want to run this by you guys. I don’t like the hood mounts being just rivnuts. Swapping to the gen 2 hinges, I need to move them. I think I’m gonna cut a slot where I have the yellow mark, slide in and resin/glass in a piece of 1/4” plate the shape of the red box. Then fill the holes andthe slot back up so the plate is bonded in well. Then I will drill and tap the plate for the hood mount bolts. Anyone see any problem with that? Should be a whole lot more durable than the ffr way of doing it.
https://i.imgur.com/RWwmBqZ.jpg

JOP33

06-30-2020, 04:13 PM

When you say "second fuel pump", is this a redundant system or something else that is far above my understanding? I (and another builder) have pondered the idea of a second fuel pump for emergency and if this is your thought, I would be interested in more information on your set-up.

Thanks

progmgr1

06-30-2020, 06:14 PM

I like the idea of a back-up plate. I planned to do that for the windshield and hardtop, now I'll have to add that to the hood too. Thanks for the extra work :rolleyes:. Keith

McGuyver

06-30-2020, 06:51 PM

I am thinking the second fuel pump kicks on at 2.5 lbs of boost to ensure sufficient fuel pressure. Bad things happen to turbo and supercharged engines under high boost if the fuel pump(s) can’t keep up and it leans out.

Svtfreak

06-30-2020, 07:01 PM

McGuyver is mostly right.

I am running a whipple supercharger and need plenty of fuel. Using one large fuel pump is ok but with the tank fully enclosed, I am a little worried about fuel heating with the return style system. So, rather than run one large pump, which will heat the fuel worse, I elected to run two smaller ones (340 lph each, if you want to call that small lol). That way, most of the time, it won’t be dumping a whole bunch of extra heat into the fuel being pumped in circles, and when needed (at 2.5 psi if boost) the second pump kicks on to make sure it doesn’t get lean. The fuel pressure regulator will react plenty fast enough to keep the pressure pretty close.

Svtfreak

06-30-2020, 07:02 PM

I like the idea of a back-up plate. I planned to do that for the windshield and hardtop, now I'll have to add that to the hood too. Thanks for the extra work :rolleyes:. Keith

I did some plates for the windshield. I haven’t done the work yet, just planning it. If I get home and have time Friday I may start. I really need to get the second fuel pump going on get an intercooler set up so I can finish the initial tuning on this thing but I keep running across more I want to do!

rapidray

07-04-2020, 09:42 AM

On my gen 2 hood that is exactly what I did. Wait until you go to cut the slot! The fiberglass was so thin there that I could cut it with my knife. After I cut the hole I could pull the aluminum plate out with my fingers it was so weakly attached. I built a plate out of 1/8 steel and then drilled the holes using the hinge as a template then I welded nuts to the plate and slid it back in. After I made the hood alignment I riveted the plate to the hood so it would not move (the hood will still be adjustable) and then glassed the slot. Worked great! Ray

Svtfreak

07-05-2020, 11:22 AM

Svtfreak

07-23-2020, 11:08 AM

Not sure if I posted here that I bought the gen 2 hood hinges. Got them assembled and the driver side one hit my air filter. So I cut a wedge extension to move it down and in some.
Here it is hitting the hinge
https://i.imgur.com/Sd5xGVm.jpg
Figured out the angle, cut the wedge out of the same 5” exhaust pipe I made version 1 with, and welded it to v1. Now, I’m no trained welder so after a bit of grinding and putting some body filler on the outside (since it’s gone be painted anyway) to help smooth the surface and seal:
https://i.imgur.com/YCcFLoJ.jpg
The surface that it’s sitting on is the end I added the part to.
https://i.imgur.com/KM0t4ru.jpg
ill fill and smooth the rest later. Before paint (I’ll be painting it, the blower, the engine and trans also)
Now, it is out of the way!
https://i.imgur.com/s4Oty3n.jpg

The kiddos and wife are going back to school soon and time should increase for me. As I’ve said before, I don’t work on it when they are home. As long as corona stays away enough. I got the 13 year old watching the 3 year old for me long enough to try to knock this out. But they got in a tiff before I could even test start it so maybe next week....

Svtfreak

07-31-2020, 05:35 PM

Finally got the hood hinges working right, and the blower intake in the right place out of the way.

On to redoing thehinge mounts. I don’t like the way ffr says to do it so I am installing a 1/4” plate that will be bonded in. Thisplate will get threadedso the bolts go into there In stead of rivnuts.

I cut a slot and drilled out the old rivnuts. Then I made 2 plates to go in. I roughed up and cut valleys to help the resin have a place to grab. I tried to stay out of the way of where the bolts would go so the valleys wouldn’t cause a bit to walk. I drilled and tapped the plates so I could use a small bolt to hold them in place with a piece of wood to tighten against.
https://i.imgur.com/AIeWnTj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GcpXCmK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ktgkyEd.jpg

Once all parts was ready, I dipped the little bolts in minwax to hopefully allow them to release. If not, I can justgrind them flush. I painted thickened resin on the back side of the hood flat (after roughing up a little with a long bit in my grinder). Painted it up good on the metal plate, inserted through the slot (using a paint paddle to hold it up). Then I used the small bolt and the paddle to pull it up tight. I used a syringe to shoot resin in before pulling it up to ensure it had plenty. Now I’m letting that cure. Next week, I’ll mix some up with some chopped strand and paint it in the back real well to increase strength. Then fill and smooth the slots and the holes used to get it all bonded.
https://i.imgur.com/Wcc4Qb7.jpg

I also see that my hood has widened a bit at the bottom due to cutting the liner to clear the blower. The front is easy, the gen 2 hinges allow some room to pull them closer together which will pull the front sides in just right. But the back, I will make a plate that will sit perfectly behind the blower in the space before the firewall, and connect the sides using the flats where the pin mounts went on the gen 1 hinge system. That’ll allow me to pull the sides in. I’ll prolly design it out of cardboard and find someone locally to water get it out of 1/16” for me. That should allow me to get the rear to line up just perfectly.

Svtfreak

08-06-2020, 01:24 PM

I did a whole bunch today but not much to post pics of. I finished filling the slot that i has cut to slide the steel plate in for the hinge mount. After bevelling the edges and laying cloth in (3 layers) and let that cure, I cleaned it up and then layed in some chopped strand to get the thickness back and some more strength. I used that to fill the holes in the top also. After cleaning up and a little skim coat of filler, you’ll never know I did surgery. https://i.imgur.com/EX0x2Ie.jpg
Also today, I extended the mounting tabs for my seat back so it reached the new position of the bottom since I lowered the bottoms. I also cleaned up the glass I used on the inside of the trunk lid but found a weak area so beveled that and filled it back in with resin and chopped strand also. Hopefully, Monday I can clean it and the hood up, throw some filler in and get that cleaned up and start the process of getting them on and right.

Svtfreak

08-14-2020, 01:12 AM

Got the seats modified and lowered. Trimmed the inserts to fit the new position and modified the center hump frame to fit. Still have to build the center insert.
https://i.imgur.com/9dCjdnL.jpg

Then I knocked down the filler and tossed some primer over the patches where I added the plate for the hood hinge. Got a few pinholes. I’ll catch that on final slicking of everything.
https://i.imgur.com/RfksAeu.jpg

Then I moved on to making the brace to pull the rear edges in. Getting this to line up just right is going to be tricky. It seems the hood wants to bow up on each end also. I’m hoping that pulling them in will get it shaped into place but I’m already considering how to fix that. It may end up requiring some glass ribbing. That’s gonna get tricky with the blower there. Anyway, here is the cardboard pattern then a 1/4” wood pattern that I can bring to the metal shop and have it water jetted out.
https://i.imgur.com/CP62dqx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AHJsJIt.jpg

Svtfreak

08-28-2020, 01:10 PM

Today I finished up the Tim Whittaker KVC trunk shocks. It fits great except the bottom is ever so slightly poked out when the shocks are installed. Not sure why, it’s easy to push into place it just doesn’t stay. The latch won’t hold it in place either. So off I go to troubleshoot that. I’m waiting on the good brace from the water jet shop. They (as well as most of south Louisiana) has to take some time off while Laura made her pass through. I’m over near Baton Rouge so it didn’t affect us other than some rain and a good breeze. But those people in west Louisiana and East Texas got it bad. I expected much worse, maybe the rebuild after Rita was up to better code. Only thing I can surmise to why everything isn’t gone like Biloxi after Katrina and that same area after Rita. Anyway, I digress...

Pics!
https://i.imgur.com/TWo17lp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/chgumZF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/i7xKfZb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nYzKnYZ.jpg

fostia

08-28-2020, 03:54 PM

Svtfreak

08-31-2020, 11:50 AM

Oh man, I'm going to bond in the kit this weekend. Already cut the slots. Thats a bit worrisome about the corners as thats where I'm having the problem myself. Is there a way to just build up the bottom and sand the countour flush?

Possibly. I tried to line it up with shocks installed. That didn’t work. Today, I loosened the hinges mounts (the L shaped one that connects the lid to the arm, loosened the two that hold it to the arm) and tapped it forward with a hammer slightly. That helped about 1/2 of the problem. I think, right now, that there is some flex on the lid between the hinge mount and the KVC arms. Def do the arms. It’s easier to deal with this than the mess that I had before with glass that moved day to day!

Here’s what I think is happening. The are between the hinge pad and the KVC arms is just thin glass. It appears that area is flexing. The trunk profile is staying perfect. Best I can tell, that spot is what’s flexing slightly and letting the bottom come out. If I can’t adjust it out, I’m going to cut out that area, install a new 1/4” thick plate to let the trunk hinge pad bolt to, with a 1/2x1/2 brace going to the end of the KVC arm. I’ll tack that up to remove all flex the glass it all back together to make the whole shebang more solid. But I’m going to monkey with it a bit more before I pull that trigger. I want to try to figure out how to prove that’s what’s happening (ideas anyone?). The big problem is it’s just too large and too flat a glass part. It flexes too much I think.

Today, I mounted the hood up. I’m still missing the brace for the back to keep everything at the right width. I’ll call that shop later.

Scribed and predrilled for the mount holes
https://i.imgur.com/9xQvWwp.jpg

Drilled, clearanced the glass and aluminum them tapped the steel plate we put in
https://i.imgur.com/BAQnsK1.jpg

Hood installed. No more rivnuts! Much more solid than it was. Plenty of clearance to the air filter.
https://i.imgur.com/c2n5Lpa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lErVdUS.jpg

Opens great. Gonna have to put stops so the arms don’t hit the radiator. No prop rod yet. I may try to incorporate a single gas strut on the passenger side (running out of room on driver).
https://i.imgur.com/UY0uHL3.jpg

Pic of the whole car. Back is up cause I’m still monkeying with the trunk. Trying to figure out how to fix the lower corner. They poke out thickness of the glass only when the shocks are installed. Might be flexing the trunk but might be just rotating the skin around a little. Trying to figure best way to fix it, but might have to strengthen the hinge mount area. If so, I’ll be doing the plate mod there also and tacking it into the KVC trunk radius rods.

Starting to look like a hot rod!
https://i.imgur.com/n9utbuj.jpg

Side note, I crossed 600 hours into her today.

FF33rod

08-31-2020, 12:32 PM

Svtfreak

09-03-2020, 02:05 PM

Couple of suggestions
- put the weather seal on the trunk before you fully tweak it, it can change how the lid sits relative to the body.
- put the gas strut(s) on the hood before you mess with a hinge stop, it seems to change how far the hinge rotates (at least on gen 1)

Cheers, Steve

Thanks Steve. I will be putting the striping on at some point but I wanna get it closer before I do that. Have to do it and doors that way. These are gen 2 hinges. I am going to try to not put them on fiberglass but on the hinge arms themselves. Haven’t even begun to try to sort that out yet. Either way, anything like that will be done before I do final gaps and fitment. You can see in a pic below, I’ve got a lot of that to do yet. The hood is on, but nowhere near where it has to be. Once I get it’s width fitment and shape right, I’ll tackle that.

Monkeyed with the trunk lid awhile yesterday. Was able to get it just about right. Need to fit it to the opening now. The latch was a jerk though. The shoulder bolt either hits the body and latch or catches the head on the latch. Actually both. So I cut out the body a little and I put a longer shoulder bolt. Have to get it fit right in the opening now. But didn’t feel like getting glassy today.

My hood brace was done so I grabbed it and installed it. Fits great. Falls in the perfect spot between the blower and firewall. I did install the prop rod for now. I’ll prolly, even if I get a shock working, leave the call stud and clip on the car even when finished.
https://i.imgur.com/17VlPhg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/boYxzZB.jpg

Now, I need help to get the hood curved back down and the sides pulled in. But my dad left for a week and my neighbor (who builds real deal big block racing motors) has diabetes. I don’t wanna chance Giving him the covid just in case I have it at any time since I’m out and about and working. So, the pics below, showing how the hood shape changed a bit when I redid the liner for the blower hump, will have to wait till dad gets back. Yeah, I have some aligning to do, the hood and radiator all need to come back some. The ends will suck in and I’m planning on putting about 3-4 L brackets on the brace up to the hood to hold its shape from side to side. They’ll be adjustable also.
https://i.imgur.com/0hBS0WN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/U6yCfRF.jpg

I did go measure a mile so I could calibrate the speedometer. Almost went to do it, but it’s hot and I’ve got a few things to do before I can drive it.

FF33rod

09-03-2020, 05:19 PM

Svtfreak

09-05-2020, 06:32 AM

I've got the opposite problem with the hood sides at the firewall, they are too tight. However, when I put the pins on I positioned them so they help spread the hood as I push them into the firewall holes. Seems to have turned out ok.

Steve

Yeah the pins do a lot to line that up. But I’ve also swapped to gen 2 hinges which ditch the pins since it doesn’t move forward any longer. It just goes straight up. I thought about pins facing down but elected to try this first. Trying to keep it clean. I do still have to figure out a good latch. Ffr’s method is to rivet it straight to the firewall. I’m not sure I want to go that route yet.

Michael101

09-05-2020, 08:05 AM

Have you seen these?

https://www.quik-latch.com/

134727
134739
134740
134741

Svtfreak

09-07-2020, 06:48 PM

Have you seen these?

https://www.quik-latch.com/

134727
134739
134740
134741

Hey Michael. Actually, yes I have. I was originally going to use one on each side, like it appears you are. And it’s not out of the question yet, but I think I want to keep the body slick with few things on it. I could paint them to match and blend in. The two of them I’m not sure about either yet. I know it’s menial, but I’m not sure about the walk around the car to open the hood. I find myself leaning across my cobra to unlatch it lol. But thank you for the link!

Svtfreak

09-08-2020, 09:42 AM

Not a hot rod update today. Don’t feel like going get nasty just to fit the trunk. Waiting on dad to get back to help and door handles for inside. So while I wait....

I grow muscadines. It’s a southern fruit with a very tough skin in the grape family. Has a divine flavor. This year, I picked 31 lbs from 2 vines and a few of those from wild. That’s 72 1/2 pints of jelly. 27 lbs of sugar. Today, I decided to prepare the juice. I’ll actually make jelly when my mom and dad get back and she’ll come up. It’s kinda become a thing we do every year.
https://i.imgur.com/DaLi3fT.jpg

HVACMAN

09-09-2020, 09:52 PM

My Great Aunt from Alabama used to do the same with scuppernongs (similar). I used to get a bottle of wine and a jar of jelly for Christmas every year.

Svtfreak

09-25-2020, 10:23 AM

My Great Aunt from Alabama used to do the same with scuppernongs (similar). I used to get a bottle of wine and a jar of jelly for Christmas every year.

Ive heard of those but not sure I’ve ever tried them. If it’s similar, I’m sure they are good lol. You can’t beat country cooking and items grown in the wild and then prepared.

Got parts in! Door handles. guess I’ll mess with them while I keep putting off sanding fiberglass. Lol
https://i.imgur.com/i7kMnKw.jpg

I layed out where I want them and actually screwed them down. Traced the outline for the hole needed.
https://i.imgur.com/Q26eXa6.jpg
Cut the hole. The bracket doesn’t land correctly the way it comes. So I bent it to a steeper angle on each side and cut it to just be held in by tension. Then I decided I wanted the bracket to stay put permanently. So I welded a couple tabs on each end, and glassed that puppy in place. I put a little thickened resin, after prepping the surfaces, and used the handle to hold it in. After it cured, I took the handle out and overlayed glass with resin to add some strength. Also used some flocked resin to fill in corners and add strength. There shouldn’t be a lot of force on the bracket but I’d rather it not fall off if I pull the handle for some reason later on.
Finished product.
https://i.imgur.com/HN6Hzbh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TNEJc3h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mqdwh9n.jpg

My second resin application is curing so now I guess I gott find something else to do while the cleaning lady is inside the house.

Svtfreak

09-25-2020, 12:29 PM

2 updates in one day, wow!
I’d say that’s pretty dadgum close!
https://i.imgur.com/Dt4GaE4.jpg
Let me be perfectly clear and say my problems where not caused by Tim’s trunk lid arms and shocks. They just made it hard to fix due to the stiffness of the lid now. Which I like better. For those who didn’t see, my lower corners where out about the thickness of the glass when everything else lined up
Here’s what I did and found.

1) my trunk lid wasn’t fit good enough. It was too tight. I got the gaps closer to right. Sanded a bit off

2) from where the corners where poking out, I barely loosened the hinge bolts they hold the L bracket to the arm and tapped it forward about the glass thickness.

3) I redid the gap along the front. It was rubbing after that adjustment.

4) reinstalled the lid and without the shocks, it was sitting low.

So far, I did all this with only the bumpers along the top so the height was right there. It started going low to the body several inches above the bottom corners, and then was resting on the glass at the bottom, about 1/2 the glass thickness.

5) put the shocks on and that pushes the bottom out just perfect that it now lines up. Almost perfectly everywhere but the center of the bottom. That’s still a little high. I’m gonna try to suck it in with the latch. I was able to do this with the latch.

https://i.imgur.com/C25La2o.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fLHvQdn.jpg

40 grit on the DA makes a little ouch REAL fast when you not paying attention to where your hand is.
https://i.imgur.com/JFce53z.jpg
Now. Gotta get the hood right, the lower cone right. Door panels in. Latches finished, console done, and intercooler system done. Then I think I’m ready to blow it up for paint.

Svtfreak

10-17-2020, 08:29 PM

Well, I was heading into the shop yesterday to do some door latch work when I noticed my sewer lift station was a bit wet. Stupid pump done got all clogged up I figured. So started gathering stuff to get it out and fix it. Except momma called. Her pool pump tripped a breaker. So headed back there and figured out what all I needed to fix it. New wire, outlet, switch and plugs for it and their sewer aerator. Meanwhile, went back and cleaned mine out. Got cleaned up and threw a load of clothes in the dryer only for it to trip on temp. Started pulling its vent apart and found enough legos in the vent pipe to build a cobra. Mom got home with her parts so I went and fixed all that up for her, she fed me lunch. Back home to finish cleaning the dryer vent and replacing the flex part. By then, it was time to start the chicken parmigiana my wife asked for for dinner. So while I was doing that, the new dishwasher showed up, so then I got the old one out and it back in, finished dinner and at the end of the day, the only thing I did on the 33 was open the trunk looking for my screwdriver.

Man, sometimes being an adult sucks. Lol!

Next week the kids are off school a few days and my other day off is my daughters field trip. Week after that, I already know my one day off I have to bring my mustang for ac repair. Hot rod building time is short, even though I was hoping it would increase when they went back to school! Hopefully, I’ll get out there soon. Really would like to have it ready to blow up for paint by January 6th but I have a lot to do considering.

And, yes, I did wash my hands multiple times and thoroughly after messing with grey water but before cooking!

FF33rod

10-18-2020, 11:05 AM

For what it's worth, when I was talking to the guy that is going to do the final prep and paint on my HR he recommended that I put all the door, trunk, etc seals in place before final fitment. It quite often changes things significantly. Thankfully, the trunk seal is a press on and can be reused. For the adhesive ones, he mentioned it's standard to have 2 sets - one for fitment before paint and the other set for final assembly.... Trunk's looking good!

Steve

Svtfreak

10-19-2020, 01:24 AM

Svtfreak

11-02-2020, 08:17 PM

Got around to working some today. First thing I did was fix the latch position on the passenger door. It was too far in. I slotted the holes in the door edge and moved the whole latch out. I still have to move the shoulder bolt to match and realign the door. Meanwhile, I made the bracket to mount the pulley for the cable.
https://i.imgur.com/EsWqmGZ.jpg

I flipped the cable and out the ball stud on the latch end. This put the adjustment at an easier to get to place. I installed the pulley pretty far back to get a straighter pull off the handle and a pretty straight shot from the arm on the latch. Boom. Works perfectly. Now to do driver side tomorrow and realign the doors. I’m going to fine tune the driver door fit a bit while tinkering with it.

https://i.imgur.com/WXyJOCV.jpg

j33ptj

11-03-2020, 02:47 AM

That doesn't clash with windows?

Just curious...

Robert

Svtfreak

11-03-2020, 10:57 AM

That doesn't clash with windows?

Just curious...

Robert

Robert, I ditched the windows when I nixed the top. I have the soft top and side curtains now and don’t regret it. However, I don’t think it would have interfered anyway. The windows went to the outside of the frame and all this is even with or inside the frame.

Got the passenger door lined up and works great! Now to just throw some weatherstripping in and make sure. That should give it just the right force to make the pop a little better. Lemme see if I can link this video.
https://i.imgur.com/NhhKIDp.mp4

Svtfreak

11-03-2020, 04:40 PM

Worked on the drivers a bit. I can’t seem to get the latch to catch the shoulder bolt just right. It’s catching the head just a touch and doesn’t open or close smooth due to that. But I space it out one washer (.060”) and it hits the back plate of the latch. I ground .030 off my spacer and it’s still hitting. I think the shoulder bolt may be at a slight angle but I can’t quite get down in there to see. I’ll take out frames and try to make room tomorrow to see what’s going on. Time ran out today. Wife wanted me come help her put up the Christmas tree. Hey, if it makes her happy. That’s my story ans I’m sticking to it. Cause daddy don’t LOVE Christmas. No indeed, I don’t...... lol

Svtfreak

11-03-2020, 04:42 PM

j33ptj

11-04-2020, 02:21 AM

Time ran out today. Wife wanted me come help her put up the Christmas tree. Hey, if it makes her happy. That’s my story ans I’m sticking to it. Cause daddy don’t LOVE Christmas. No indeed, I don’t...... lol

Ba humbug,.... it's only 4th Nov!!! hahahaha

Thanks for the reply btw!

fostia

11-04-2020, 04:02 PM

I think I am going to make my own door latch rod setup so I can increase the ratio of pull on the latch to the stroke of the handle. And decrease the free play due to cable stretch. This will also get the latch a little farther away from popping open. A safety factor for the suicide doors (on top of planned pin)

Not sure how pot committed you are to the pulley system but i bought pretty much the same door handles. I used sheathed throttle cables with a cable adjuster near the bearclaw latch (i also bought the pulleys but decided i liked this better).. That way you can adjust the tension very easily. The hardest part is you need to attach a sheath end near the handle (i welded a drilled out nut onto an extension) so the sheath ends always maintain in the same position.... For my exterior handles i bonded this sheath end component to the inside door.

If this at all interests you, i bought all the components through Venhill USA. I had a hard time finding out where to buy individual throttle cable components and found this to be the best spot. https://www.venhillusa.com/
137185
137186
137187

Svtfreak

11-05-2020, 10:50 PM

Not sure how pot committed you are to the pulley system but i bought pretty much the same door handles. I used sheathed throttle cables with a cable adjuster near the bearclaw latch (i also bought the pulleys but decided i liked this better).. That way you can adjust the tension very easily. The hardest part is you need to attach a sheath end near the handle (i welded a drilled out nut onto an extension) so the sheath ends always maintain in the same position.... For my exterior handles i bonded this sheath end component to the inside door.

If this at all interests you, i bought all the components through Venhill USA. I had a hard time finding out where to buy individual throttle cable components and found this to be the best spot. https://www.venhillusa.com/
137185
137186
137187

That’s really good idea fostia. My initial response was heck yeah I’ll do that, but I still want to increase the movement at the latch for the amount of pull at the handle. I think the only way will be an uneven lever. Could probably used sheathed cables also but I’ve ordered the rods so I’m gonna give that a shot. Great work though on that!

fostia

11-05-2020, 11:05 PM

That’s really good idea fostia. My initial response was heck yeah I’ll do that, but I still want to increase the movement at the latch for the amount of pull at the handle. I think the only way will be an uneven lever. Could probably used sheathed cables also but I’ve ordered the rods so I’m gonna give that a shot. Great work though on that!

Also, if you are looking for movement, i used a burr tool to remove material so the handle pulls out further....

Svtfreak

11-06-2020, 05:02 PM

Also, if you are looking for movement, i used a burr tool to remove material so the handle pulls out further....

Oh yeah! I can do that. Didn’t think about that. Thanks man!

Finally got around to using my hood brace to set the hood width. It worked! Yeah, I have to move the grill back a bit and get the gaps right. But now I know it’ll work.
https://i.imgur.com/xbo0efU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X4sNnOy.jpg

Next, I’m going to make 2 L brackets per side that will keep the hood top shape in place better.
https://i.imgur.com/KhkPhAq.jpg

Svtfreak

11-30-2020, 04:23 PM

Finally got my rod ends and worked on the door latch. The handle end, by using the ball stud, that became the better leverage. So I ended up with 1:1 at the pivot. You can see the different points I tried. It’s stiffer than before but only because now there is no stretch. MUCH safer and not right on the edge of popping now!
https://i.imgur.com/HlQp9JV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GyBPOsA.jpg
Here is final. I think the angled pivot bar need to be turned around to increase leverage and make it easier to pop. Not sure what I was thinking assembling it that way. Gonna try that tomorrow. But that might actually make me have to remake the rod to the latch. Oh well. Gonna tweak that tomorrow and move to drivers side with still is giving me fits getting it to latch on the shoulder bolt just right.
https://i.imgur.com/hKhoXK5.jpg

Svtfreak

12-02-2020, 02:21 PM

No pics but an update. I turned the angled pivot bar around and it works a lot better. Was able to back off from the latch trio a bit more so the handle comes out some then hits the hard spot after you have some leverage on it. Repeated on driver side and it works awesome. I also finally folded my long, getting old behind up and got in there to see why the driver door wasn’t latching right. It was riding up some and that put the latch moving on the bolt due to the door angle at the front. I was able to adjust the door up a bit at the front and all my door latch problems went away. It took my 6’2” butt longer to fold up and get in under the steering wheel and to unfold after I figured out what was happening than to actually fix it.

Putting the doors to bed finally. Only have to tweak the gaps and round the edges just a touch, and they are ready for final fill/body work.

I built my shop about 6 years ago and put 12 4’ florescent bulbs in it. 24x30 shop. It was ok. Over time, they’ve dimmed and some failed. It was about 15k lumens then. Down to about 10k now, prolly a bit less. I ordered 100k lumens worth of led 8’ light strips (10 of them) to replace my old junk. Can’t wait to be able to see in there better! Just in time for the final push on body panel fitment.

Svtfreak

12-14-2020, 08:03 PM

Today, I finished the brackets to keep the hood center in position. Goofball me measured the holes from two different edges so I have to redo them in the cross brace. But they work! The hood curve matches the body and the sides meet up just right. Did a little more gap work so I can get it back mounted to finalize gaps. Maybe tomorrow.

Also pulled all the plugs checking for an injector leaking down. Didn’t find any fuel puddles. So I turned on the key and system pressured up almost instantly. Only thing I did was add fuel to tank the other day. Maybe my hard start and hard priming was caused by not quite enough fuel in the tank. Gonna try that tomorrow.
https://i.imgur.com/PiRLlMQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MH3Ho9r.jpg

cob427sc

12-15-2020, 03:47 PM

You will love the LED lamps! My garage is 24 x 32 and I have 6, 4' fixtures and it's almost too brite.

Svtfreak

12-15-2020, 04:38 PM

You will love the LED lamps! My garage is 24 x 32 and I have 6, 4' fixtures and it's almost too brite.

Haha yes I do! Mine is 24x30 and I have 10- 8 foots now. I can see! And I’m gonna add 8 more 4’ ones to fill in a few places. Maybe a 9th above my work benches to make that even brighter. I funny thing is, I don’t like bright light. But for body work, I need it super bright. I have them on 2 switches so I can use half.

Svtfreak

01-08-2021, 12:52 PM

Worked on the hood latch. Remade the hood brace to be a bit beefier to double as a latch mount. The shoulder bolt is on here but I forgot to get a photo of that. Will be slotting for it but it landed perfect for now.
https://i.imgur.com/YTZv7kM.jpg1

I did mount the latch exactly like ffr said. May have to slit those holes side to side a bit.
https://i.imgur.com/sZLfuAZ.jpg

Landed perfectly. The only problem I have is that the latch doesn’t have enough spring to push the hood up when you release it. I need it to pop up to get my fingers under it. I thought about a couple of springs like new cars have but rather keep it cleaner. Can I wind the spring in the latch up more? Anyone do that, or have any ideas?
https://i.imgur.com/jWr3KzC.jpg

Aint she sexy....
https://i.imgur.com/iWIhiGw.jpg

Svtfreak

02-04-2021, 12:45 PM

Ok. Well, I been fighting the hood for awhile. Can’t get it to pop up just a touch when released. I have the latch from gen 1 on it, maybe it doesn’t have enough spring? I can’t feel that drastic of a difference between them. Anyway, so I decided to tackled something easier today, after monkeying with about 5 ideas that didn’t work on the hood.

I finally got a new (real) rivnut tool. So I put the bottom ones in, marked and cut the panel I previously formed. Then did the top. Then I made 3 little brackets to hold it all together in the right place along the middle. Mixed up some resin and two layers of glass. This will hold it when I take it off and build the strength in on the back side with about 5 layers. Then I can shape the front to match the curve and not be a peak. Passenger done! Drivers next week maybe. Running out of time today. I’m hoping life is a little more normal soon and allows some work time. It’s so close to ready for paint. The list is short But a few items are going to take lots of time.
https://i.imgur.com/YB8xyv5.jpg

Svtfreak

02-04-2021, 02:55 PM

And drivers side done too.
https://i.imgur.com/1RIl2Up.jpg

Svtfreak

02-08-2021, 04:34 PM

Pulled the door panels off. They fit really close! Was supposed actually. So I reinforced the back sides of them and put them back on to cure. That should keep them in the right place permanently. Ill put a little more once this cures but I am very happy with how they turned out so far
https://i.imgur.com/Rq7p4MX.jpg

Svtfreak

02-22-2021, 02:14 PM

My poppers came in so back to the hood. Installed them a little different than designed. I drilled and tapped the popper, drilled and coundersunk the ring that supposed to go under. That put it in a lesser spring range to minimize pushing the hood out of place. Works! It is pushing on the hood and pushing that area up some. Debating on the best way to fix that. Thinking a metal plate for it to contact affixed to my cross brace to put the force on it instead of glass. It might need some tricky shaping to make it strong enough. I’ll take more of a look after I sleep on it. Also needs a little more aligning. Video from before I pulled it down in the center a bit more. The black spacers in the pics I ended up not using. Needed more spring force than that far at the end of the travel.
https://i.imgur.com/90fCYAb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rKtNlWS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AZkg9lv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jxoxINA.mp4

I am still baffled why mine doesn’t pop easy like other gen 2 hinge set ups. I checked everything, it’s not rubbing, it shouldn’t be any heavier than a normal ffr bumped hood. I dunno but that sure is making this hard. Could the latch be that different? They don’t feel like much spring pressure difference. *shrug*

Svtfreak

03-23-2021, 03:34 PM

While I’m waiting on a couple more an fittings to get here, started on the nose cone again. I had it close once. It went back in pretty well
https://i.imgur.com/WXW1Y0i.jpg

Pay not attention to the hole in the grill. Dumba** here drilled straight through when drilling to tap for a bolt to hold the cone there. Gonna have it welded back up before finishing the grill, however I end up doing it.

Ok. So, now to get the now 2 pc side panel in amd mark it for sanding. I will build a flange on the two pieces so the side panel will be removable without removing theheadlights. 8 bolts, 6 into wellnuts, will hold it in and I think they’ll be accessible without jacking it up even. Pretty decent fit first shot.
https://i.imgur.com/3QHqJ32.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CY5RyEG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/relsFES.jpg

got a little glass work to do on the front part where it meets the nose cone. To close up that gap. Otherwise, ready to built some new flanges.

no pics of driver side yet. Ive got a twost on the body part that comes forward. And when I pull it in to the mount, it fits terrible. I got it all lined up and straight but I’m going to built a new “stanchion” that bolts to the frame mount and then will keep that part in the right place and with the right twist. Gonna make one for both side so they match and the passenger side don’t twist in time. It needs that support. But, now that I have it fitting straight, I can move on amd get the driver side done too. Glad I stumbled on that fix.

the top fits almost under the hood. I have to sort that out. Couldn’t get the cobra out togrind glass today though. It’s storming. I’m going to take the hood back to the edge of the body mould line then go from there on how to get it to fit. Might take some creative fitment and rebuilding along the top. Maybe as much as cutting it down and remaking thatflange. It’s not needed for mounting but to keep it from flexing.

how does your hood fit to the hood sides anyway? Do the sides fit up under the hood?

Svtfreak

03-26-2021, 02:42 PM

Well, some days go well and others not so much. Pic time! -an fittings for my intercooler and for the heater block outlet and return fittings.
https://i.imgur.com/UWuTUEu.jpg

Looks great! Except things didn’t go well. Stripped two of the four bolts that hold the intercooler hose barb fittings in. Had to pull the intake blower was already off) to drill the bolts out. Those where very soft bolts! Soft bolts with a taper seat are not a good combo. Ggrrrr. So anyway, move on to heater fittings. Passenger side is great. Driver side hits the dadgum water outlet to the thermostat/radiator.
https://i.imgur.com/0vRZEbC.jpg
Got a call in to the maker to see if I’m missing something. Not enough movement in the rubber lines. I think I could grind enough to make it fit and still have a good bite on the hold down. But seeing if they have some input before I start down that path.
So now I’m at a standstill. Once I get this fitting and see what i need, I can order the rest of my fittings and get the heater and intercooler system finished up. Except I think I’m going to have a custom resevoir made locally rather than make the mustang one fit. Even though it’s not seen, I’ll know it.

Svtfreak

05-29-2021, 02:05 PM

After 9 weeks of being stuck in bed and a recliner (bunion surgery on both feet), I went out and hobbled around a bit. Had to show off my cool heater hose fittings in the coyote. Had to put the blower back on which required help that wasn’t here yet, to figure what fittings I needed for the other side and for the inter cooler.
Driver side head return
https://i.imgur.com/HoFfgu6.jpg
I think I’m gonna remake that with a 45*extension then the 45 hose end so it sits lower to motor. Or a straight extension and a 90.

the routing
https://i.imgur.com/SE33XOc.jpg

The inserts to convert AC to an flare at the firewall. Obviously, the ac lines won’t have this and will be standard ac oring.
https://i.imgur.com/ltLlyzJ.jpg

Now I gotta figure out what I need on the other side at the head and to get from the intercooler to get out and to the resevoir.

progmgr1

05-29-2021, 04:58 PM

Joey - so glad you are back on your feet again (in a manner of speaking). I was wondering why you hadn't posted anything for so long. So, did you run out of things to work on while sitting down :rolleyes: ? Keith HR #894

Svtfreak

08-27-2021, 12:46 PM

Lol Keith, yeah I did! That was some boring time.

Ok! After surgery, a summer of me having the boys a lot of days, the wife and daughter taking two trips, us all catching COVID, overtime at work and just general not feeling it, I got some work done today!

Got my nose cone fit up. I ended up having to just cut the factory side cover braces off the frame. They wasn’t even close to where my extensions to nose cone meeting point happened. I’m going to remake them when I fit the side covers. So, it’s fit! Next, I think I’m going to glass my radiator trim panels I cut out of the side panels into the nose cone to do away with that body slit.

https://i.imgur.com/DRKqOKs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iK7wUyT.jpg

I’m in south Louisiana, and we prolly gonna be smack in the bullseye of this storm coming, so, will prolly be a week or two before I get back to it. But hopefully after that, with kids back in school and no overtime till October, then 2 weeks off, hopefully I can get real close to ready for paint.

Svtfreak

09-15-2021, 10:13 AM

Yep. Ida’s eye passes about 4 miles as the crow flies from my house. It went straight over my brothers place. Fortunately, we all had zero damage to our bodies and property. None. Like so fortunate. We had our yard cleaned up in a matter of hours. Thankfully, I had prepared well, had plenty of gas on hand for the cars, and had a full propane tank for the big generator. We did suffer, but many people did and still are. We didn’t have power for a couple hours shy of 12 days. New record for my road, eclipsing Katrina by 3 days and Andrew by 5. This storm was a beast. I’ve never been scared of one. Anxious? Yes. But never scared. I was Sunday night about 9-12 midnight. We are a ways inland so it was weakened well and no worries of that sort of flooding here. But the wind…. Wow. My brothers work has a meter and it pegged the meter at 112 mph 2 minute average for 45 minutes straight. And it is west, farther from the center, than we are. Then was up there more than down for another 45 min. Baton Rouge recorded 92 mph. I call bull****. Lol. Anyway….

After 2 weeks of recovery, cutting trees, getting work back up and running and just generally helping where we could, we are better off. People east of us still in a bind, but they have lots of help. People can say what they want about politics, racial division, religious differences, but in this area, when the **** hits the fan, people come together in ways you couldn’t imagine. I’ve seen homeless people cooking meals for electrical lineman, people with trees on their own homes helping others with worse destruction. Even acts of kindness to me, who didn’t need it, but it all brought a tear to my eye, literally. It was worrying at times, but we where lucky. There’s hope for humanity, I know, and for our country, as soon as we can’t see what's going on on Washington, and blinded by inability to access media, to see the natural state of people and how they can treat each other.

Anyway…. I digress!

I finally got to get something real done. After awhile of thinking how I wanted to do this….

Passenger side is the experimental side. I cut the trim panel from the full side. Due to moving the radiator down and back, the trim panel was too long and the wrong angle. So I cut it and fit. I’m glassing the trim to the lower nose cone to make it one solid part and no longer have the (now) unnecessary body line along the bottom. The side panels will now bolt to the trim panel (after I build up a flange like the bottom has) and make the side covers removable in about 10 minutes, hopefully without jacking the car up.

https://i.imgur.com/VgDPDrS.jpg

Might be a bit before I post the finished look. I have to let this cure, do other side, smooth, fill and finish the joints, and I’ve got some overtime to work, so stay tuned for the end result!

progmgr1

09-15-2021, 05:00 PM

Glad to see that you and your extended family escaped the storm relatively intact. Also glad to see that the Hot Rod and your garage were spared. Sounds like that was one nasty storm!
Keith HR #894

HVACMAN

09-16-2021, 12:46 AM

Svtfreak

09-16-2021, 09:50 PM

I'm so glad ya'll came through Ida ok and your right about people down here. I've lived 17 miles from Gulf Coast my whole life and when it hits the fan we don't sit around waiting for the government to get there. We just do it. After Harvey everyone who had a boat launched it and started cruising the streets pulling people from houses and we were super thankful when the Cajun Navy showed up to help. Thank You.

Oh man yeah I remember Harvey. That one soaked y’all bad. Wasn’t long after we had that flood here either. Our church sent a literall box trailer truck load of stuff over that we knew would be needed, from experience, unfortunately. The Cajun navy boys really took to that role since Katrina. Those guys live for that stuff.

Svtfreak

09-16-2021, 09:53 PM

Got the nose cone all glued back together now. A little smoothing and cleaning up then I’m going to build the new flange for the side panel to bolt to all the way up. Then it’s back on the car for final gap and fitment to match up to the grill and hood at the top. Got some overtime to work so won’t be till the end of next week before I start that.

https://i.imgur.com/r0wj642.jpg

progmgr1

09-17-2021, 03:24 AM

Joey,
I really like the idea of cutting off the front edge of the side covers and bonding them to the nosecone. I may have to steal that idea for my build someday.
Keith HR #894

GoDadGo

09-18-2021, 02:17 AM

SVT,

Glad to hear that you weathered many storms from, Surgery, COVID to IDA.

Steve

Svtfreak

09-30-2021, 08:11 AM

SVT,

Glad to hear that you weathered many storms from, Surgery, COVID to IDA.

Steve

Steve, ain’t you over near Slidell? How’d y’all fare? I know between us and Slidell got it pretty bad.

Built up the new flanges today. After roughing up the edges amd thinning it out to lay in new glass, made a pattern from poster board and layed in the new glass. Hope this worked!

https://i.imgur.com/nn0gKdD.jpg

GoDadGo

09-30-2021, 08:50 AM

Steve, ain’t you over near Slidell? How’d y’all fare? I know between us and Slidell got it pretty bad.

We did okay but the winds were far worse than any of the previous storms, including Katrina, but the storm surge was only about as bad as Isaac. (2012)
Being so close to Lake Pontchartrain puts us in a "Move It Or Lose It" situation for nearly every storm.
Glad you are on the mend and back to building your 33.

FYI: The Our State's Inspection Process Stinks So You May Want Get On The List Sooner Than Later!

Svtfreak

10-05-2021, 11:38 AM

We did okay but the winds were far worse than any of the previous storms, including Katrina, but the storm surge was only about as bad as Isaac. (2012)
Being so close to Lake Pontchartrain puts us in a "Move It Or Lose It" situation for nearly every storm.
Glad you are on the mend and back to building your 33.

FYI: The Our State's Inspection Process Stinks So You May Want Get On The List Sooner Than Later!

The winds where worse than anyone expected. Glad y’all fared well too!

Back on the nose cone today.

Peeled off all the tape and poster board. Cut it down to width and had this
https://i.imgur.com/zM9u4oX.jpg

A really good start. One wave I’ll have to build up the back more maybe and cut down the outside but otherwise I’m pretty pleased with how close to necessary it is.

The edge where the glass rolled in had a little gap. Ran a cut off wheel down it and layed in some flocked resin. Then layed 2 more layers of glass over that. Flipped it over, layed two more on the backside. That should give the the thickness needed to take the wave out, clean and straighten the edges and surface. And have a good solid corner for the radius.

https://i.imgur.com/aOOwwq1.jpg[img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/h4c8IGj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qHY625G.jpg

Svtfreak

10-25-2021, 12:32 PM

Got the new 1 pc nose all made up, trimmed and put in. Had to cut a small area out to clear grill/radiator mount. Not sure how I am going to get to the back of the headlight mounts yet.

Anyway…

https://i.imgur.com/dzm50El.jpg

The side that matters.

https://i.imgur.com/vpFdDf4.jpg

As you see, I had to cut a section out of the trim parts, my grill is as low and leaned back as I can get it so the sides aren’t as tall as they should be. Had to pie peivr one side panel and refit the front of the other.

Sanded down the back sides of the side panels to build a new flange to meet up to the front part.

Here you see how I thinned it so it wouldn’t turn out 1/2” thick there.
https://i.imgur.com/mqzLj8E.jpg

Built me a thick cardboard edge, and layed in 3 layers of glass mat with resin on each one. That’ll give me a good base to build as needed and shape it to match the front.

https://i.imgur.com/ydIDz3C.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0tHQVmc.jpg

progmgr1

10-25-2021, 02:52 PM

Thanks for the update, Joey. It's always good to see the details of the work you had to do in order to turn these "flawed" fiberglass parts into something more fit for the purpose. I may not always do exactly the same as you, but it's good to have an example of what is possible.

Keith HR #894

JimLev

10-25-2021, 11:05 PM

Joey, in post 362 you show some hood poppers. Can you tell me where to get them?
Thanks in advance.

JimLev

Svtfreak

10-26-2021, 10:22 AM

Joey, in post 362 you show some hood poppers. Can you tell me where to get them?
Thanks in advance.

JimLev

Here ya go, Jim. Be ware. They are pretty stiff. You can set them deep to lessen that. As detailed, I had to make metal plates to push against to not deform the hood. Probably cause my hood done got a little heavy making room for that blower lol.

Heavy Duty Billet Door Poppers for Shaved Door Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHFPGN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EJPX3ZG9P7KZGXX2NSXS?_ encoding=UTF8&psc=1

JimLev

10-26-2021, 01:58 PM

Thanks for the link, I’m going to buy them.
Maybe the body will come apart so I can use a different spring?
I need to put them on the top of the grill (Gen 1 hinges) to push the hood up when I pop the hood.

JimLev

10-30-2021, 10:18 PM

Thanks again, the poppers came in today. The springs are stiff like you said.
I took one apart and will get springs that aren’t as stiff.
My hood doesn’t always want to pop up, the plan is to mount them under the top of the grille with just the piston sticking up thru it.
If one popper isn’t enough I’ll use two.

155074

Svtfreak

11-10-2021, 10:00 AM

Awesome, Jim. Glad that is working for you. I didn’t take mine apart. I had made spacers to mount them deeper which also lessened the force, but I needed it all and the length lol.

I got the drivers side panel in place! Yay! Took me long enough…. Still got a little fine tuning on alignment to do

https://i.imgur.com/lqsonfi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AmqqXRT.jpg

I thinned the head of the well nuts and installed in 6 places. 2 on the front new flanges to the new nose cone. 4 along the bottom. 2 in front to nose cone and 2 on the long back stretch to the body.
https://i.imgur.com/UHRDGcJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/61vk8gM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XKJIdYM.jpg

I had intended these to be easily removable without getting under the car, but to maintain smaller holes in the body that stays, they’ll be easily removable by driving the front wheels up on ramps. I took the drivers side off in 7 minutes and that’s with a PITA Allen head screw. I am going to put winged bolts in there for final assembly so no tools will even be required. Hopefully 10 minutes or less and side panels can be on or off depending on my mood.

Svtfreak

11-10-2021, 11:06 AM

Got passenger side mounted today too! On to final fitment of these and some filler. Huge step towards ready for paint.

https://i.imgur.com/a6RsNEa.jpg

Svtfreak

11-16-2021, 04:51 PM

Side panels done! Other than final filling and prep. Can remove and install them in about 10 minutes with front on ramps (or mimicking ramps atm lol). Still gotta get some clearance on hood around back bolts.
https://i.imgur.com/L5Qs7Dy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0xpzSp1.jpg

I missed a couple days of work last week. Wanted to be done earlier. Now just trunk and door panels, console and finish intercooler system and wire ac then should be ready for paint!

I missed some days because I picked this up, had to go get it. My new daily driver to replace my 50th anniversary mustang GT.
https://i.imgur.com/XCWYK1b.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/R55zK0m.jpg

progmgr1

11-16-2021, 10:19 PM

Sweet ride!

Side covers are looking good. Do you plan to add any kind of vent? I have heard that Coyotes put out a lot of heat and some venting is commonly needed.

Keith HR #894

Svtfreak

11-17-2021, 02:01 PM

Thanks Keith!

I wasn’t planning on it. I want the slick smooth look. I’d rather run it without than put vents. I’m not against running it open in warmer months open and cooler months closed either.

Svtfreak

01-11-2022, 01:08 PM

Long break due to holidays, family coming in, suspected covid (but was barely sick so didn’t bother logging up the testing, just stayed home).

But, I got the hood side panels done and the hood to close today! Still a little tweaking to do and time to build the new stanchions at the bottom. Oh and figure out the headlight spacers behind the glass.

https://i.imgur.com/5DLihk2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/R2BZYC0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/348Zhfv.jpg

Svtfreak

02-04-2022, 07:07 PM

Built a mock up of the coolant reservoir for both engine coolant and intercooler fluid. Made some room by remaking a brace and moving stuff around behind driver seat in front of the axle. It’ll tuck up nice and tight there. Built it from 1/2” thick foam, and noted all sizes and mounting tabs etc. Put on the blocks where I need 1/2” thick plate (and one spot of 3/4” thick) for the fittings. The water neck is on its way. Once it’s here? I’ll bring it all to the aluminum fab shop.

https://i.imgur.com/SIalNeX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/M5r7FuH.jpg

Svtfreak

02-08-2022, 01:31 PM

Svtfreak

02-08-2022, 02:22 PM

33fromSD

02-08-2022, 02:54 PM

No real pics in todays update. But, it’s a big step. I got one of the front side panels that was still rubbing the hood fit right. Just a little reshaping of the top and the inside of the hood. And i got the trunk to latch. That’s it. All major body fitment is done! Got one spot of resin curing so I can put a bumper for the trunk in place then I’ll post pics.

Gotta finished door panels, finish intercooler system, figure out where to mount speakers (probably in door panels but have to make sure before I move on), build console, rebuild seat bases, and figure out where cables for actuators for hood and trunk need to go through. Then I should be ready to blow it up. As I take it down, I have a few things to do (cut deforester vents, drill and tap for screws to help me get all alignments close, etc), then going back together will be a process. First up, have frame blasted and primer, along with rear suspension. Get aluminum and front suspension powder coated. Then I’ll start painting and reassembling in steps. I can’t wait for that part. The body work, while making it really personal for me, has been tedious at times.

Anyway, I’m excited! Big goal today

Great job.

Not to rain on your parade but keep in mind that not rubbing now may not mean it won'r rub when you paint since you're adding a lot of material thickness depending upon if you go sealer, high build primer, base & clear.

I have one spot on the top of my passenger engine side cover you don't see with the hood shut but when you open it, the paint is rubbed down on that and the inside of the hood in the same spot. I had it fitted to not rub before I painted, and "thought' I had enough clearance for the finishing material too but turns out I didn't.

I have a flaw in my hood paint I'll take care of some year and fix the engine side cover rubbing at the same time but it's good enough for now.

Jim

Svtfreak

02-11-2022, 10:22 AM

Thanks, jim, I appreciate the insight. For sure. I am trying to keep that in mind. The rubbing was on the radius. I chewed it out with a smaller rounded end and now I’ve got plenty room. I try to use clay in tight places to see how much room I really have.

Got a little hole fixed up and bumpers in place. Here she is all major body work done!

https://i.imgur.com/QQ4lvRz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GxxbxZE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1x08wFY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MA0yjA4.jpg

33fromSD

02-11-2022, 05:49 PM

Looks great. Big milestone.

Jim

Jeff33Ford

02-11-2022, 07:33 PM

Looks great. What tail lights do you have in mind? I like the idea of not using the stock ones either. At least that is what I gather from your pics. I did search the thread but did not get any hits.

Tampa33Build

02-12-2022, 06:14 AM

Looks great, wondering how you filled the FFR rear light holes. I originally filled them with glass and clothed around the top side. After painting and setting in the sun the old light holes protruded. Once the body cooled, they were not visible. The body shop redid the back and repainted by digging out my fiberglass and adding new. It does the same however not as bad. We are thinking that the inside pocket needs to be cut out vs. being glassed in.

Neil

FF33rod

02-13-2022, 03:43 PM

Looks great, wondering how you filled the FFR rear light holes. Neil

I cut the pockets off and ground the rear so there was no lip. Couple of layers of glass from behind, need to make it very rigid. Think I put 1 or 2 on the outside just in the pocket (no overlap with the body on the outside). Then filled the remainder with EverGlass.
So far so good but I put surface mount units in the same general area so imperfections may not be quite as noticeable.

Steve

Svtfreak

02-14-2022, 01:48 PM

Looks great. What tail lights do you have in mind? I like the idea of not using the stock ones either. At least that is what I gather from your pics. I did search the thread but did not get any hits.

I am using hagan’s. I did not use the weld in metal, but cut and slowly fit the shape into the fiberglass. Then I glassed on some studs in the back to mount the boxes to.

Looks great, wondering how you filled the FFR rear light holes. I originally filled them with glass and clothed around the top side. After painting and setting in the sun the old light holes protruded. Once the body cooled, they were not visible. The body shop redid the back and repainted by digging out my fiberglass and adding new. It does the same however not as bad. We are thinking that the inside pocket needs to be cut out vs. being glassed in.

Neil

I used vinyl Esther resin and mat. I chamfered the back side after cutting out the factory five pockets and filled it with, if I recall, about 5 layers. I had to put one or two on the front. I’ll find out if it worked well when I prime it lol.

Worked on the console and mounted the key switch and light switch today. The key will get replaced with push button start later. But same place.
https://i.imgur.com/UFX7sM6.jpg

Svtfreak

02-16-2022, 04:14 PM

I need new pics. Got the console top and front done today. I’ll get pics of that and add. And picked this up. The coolant reservoir.

https://i.imgur.com/fIoCbvy.jpg

Svtfreak

03-17-2022, 11:17 AM

Got my intercooler/coolant reservoir mounted up!

It’s tucked up in there. Pump is mounted. Need to order some fittings and my low temp radiator for the intercooler and fans.
https://i.imgur.com/khBKXfg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/riupfIe.jpg
That’s looking up from the bottom
[img]https://i.imgur.com/s2FFdu3.jpg[/img

You’ll have to peek up behind the rear tire to see the level in it. But, if I get it right, level shouldn’t be a problem.

Svtfreak

05-16-2022, 03:10 PM

I’m still here! I’ve been tightening up loose ends, finishing up steps that were partially done, and tending to sickness (freakin upper respiratory infection knocked me out almost 2 weeks!). Hopefully I’ll have an update soon with all the little final things figured out and done. I’ve had two false starts in intercooler and trans cooler mounting, that’s taken up a lot of time. About to order two new identical coolers to make a neat stack that fits where I want so will be waiting for that. Meantime….

Cup holders!
https://i.imgur.com/ZnMOChW.jpg

Svtfreak

05-17-2022, 11:06 AM

Got some stuff figured out where to put it and holes cut. Ac controls, ac vents (that drivers side gonna be a bear to hook up once body is on), and passenger speaker locations. I’ll get to drivers side next but it’s getting hot here. South Louisiana summers humidity are brutal and cutting my days short as I get older. Plus, gotta being the 15 year old ball of attitude for dentist appt today. Although he did hang out with me a bit out here today. Building cars ain’t his thing. He’s a musician I think. My 5 year old, he will be the hot rodder I think.

https://i.imgur.com/fXspkwr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nNSSvRZ.jpg

Getting real close to ready to blow up for paint. A serious shop clean out comes first though lol.

Svtfreak

06-04-2022, 12:30 PM

That’s it. Mechanically complete. Everything is mounted, plumbed, fit, wired (except the ac/trinary), etc. Just a few loose ends to tidy up, then it’s gonna be a MAJOR shop clean out day or two, then on to disassembly for paint.

The last step I was working on was mounting the trans and intercooler. I went through a few variations with different coolers. It dawned on me that I am not guiding a track attack machine and I didn’t need the huge LTR for the blower. It just needs to cool down the occasional stoplight confrontation so, I found a trans cooler that worked for both and was able to stack them and really clean up what I was originally working towards. So here it is.

Riveted pads to the aluminum and ran long studs into those. The studs are wrapped in plastic shrink wrap to help protect the tubing they go between.
https://i.imgur.com/gRXU2Bh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SWq6QTZ.jpg

Coolers stacked and mounted on the studs. There is rubber between the pads and the coolers, between the coolers, and between the cooler retention peices and the coolers to help isolate and prevent any rubbing through of anything

https://i.imgur.com/lbInoVd.jpg

All complete, fan mounted, plumbed up.
https://i.imgur.com/EijrvcQ.jpg

All those hoses are going to get mounted with real hose separators into the frame tubes. I’ll fit those when I’m taking apart since I can’t really get to where I need to drill and tap right now.

Now on to tidying up a few things and cleaning this dadgum shop out! I may do a skim coat and sand it before I do that so I don’t have to do it outside. Once I clean this shop, I’m not doing dusty work in here anymore.

Alan_C

06-05-2022, 01:01 PM

Svtfreak

06-13-2022, 11:37 AM

You going to do some road testing before teardown for paint? I am really curious about the operation of the 6R80 and controlling the sport mode with the Lokar shifter.
I am in the body work phase now on my build but I have yet to fire the engine. Two years or so away from first start.

Alan, I did a bit of that already. If you look back, I swapped from the stock converter to a 3400 from yank. The only 2 problems I had was it pushed through the converter on the brakes. Bigger brakes will probably help, butt he standard FFR ones are just too small. Did a whole lot of troubleshooting before I tried that. Now, it stops and holds stop just fine. It’s just too light for the factory converter, at least with the small brakes. If I was staking with these, I would go up to 36-3800, but I’ll be putting the huge ones on for final build. Secondly, with the VERY low 1st in the 6r80, and 3.55’s, the throttle off idle is VERY touchy. Initially, the tuner was hesitant to touch that. “We’ve never had to do that”. “You ever tune a 1900lb car with a supercharged setup?” “No”. Well, I finally got them to slow the throttle off idle a bit and it made a huge difference. So, my brother has learned how to tune these. How and why is a long story, but he’s better than most tuners out there. He’s done his own 19 mustang with a whipple. So, anyway, for the final tune, him and I are going to do it and slow it down a touch more. Combined with taller rear tires when I get them, it will smooth some of that touchiness out. You can also go taller in the rear gear, which I will probably do also. Maybe up to 3.27 or even 3.08’s. The only downside is, lookout. Cause at some point you have to ramp that slow initial throttle in, and at that point, things might get interesting.

As far as sport mode, the gen 2 controls pack (the only thing I’ve messed with so this may not be true for any other version) doesn’t have a true sports mode. It has the manual shift ability, but it doesn’t stay in manual. I have it set up on the lokar so that you can downshift and upshift. But, after about 10 seconds or so, the ecu takes over again. FRPP says that the full sport mode functions are not included in the controls pack ecu. Keith (prgmgr) was trying to make that part work but he hasn’t said if it does or not yet.

If you’d like to talk in person more, you’re more than welcome to call me one day. I’ve helped a couple guys get the 6r80 going on there’s and really don’t mind.

Alan_C

06-13-2022, 02:48 PM

Yes I do remember your trying to sort out the converter issues.
I do not have SC on mine and my Mustang will be more like 3200 lbs when complete. Hopefully more along the lines of what Ford had intended for the setup. Like you I went with a 3.55 rear ratio as well. On my Mustang forum guys were comparing their overall first gear rations. Just for grins I calculated out mine as being in excess of 12. I expect this thing to jump out of the hole and then shift.
I am disappointed that the PCM will override the sport shift input. Should Keith determine how to enable the full sport mode, I would like to be kept in the loop.
As is so often the case with modifying a 52 year old car, I found the condition of the quarter panels on the car to be poor on the right side and really bad on the left. Currently finishing up fitting of the LH quarter skin with the RH now on order. More time and effort but will be a better repair. I had thoughts about getting the car running later this year, but much more likely next.

Svtfreak

06-13-2022, 02:49 PM

Today, I made a bracket for the jumper cables/charger. I wanted something accessible even if out one a date and dressed nice, something I wouldn’t get filthy getting to and mess up my interior. So I put it under the back. Made a bracket for it with a grommeted hole (use protection yall!). On final sssembky I’ll glue a piece of rubber above it to prevent grounding the positive clamp by accident.
https://i.imgur.com/DvP9hpA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xBwMbOb.jpg
The car is still in the air here, so I hope it’s less noticeable down on the ground. I just realized that I forgot to look when I put it down lol
https://i.imgur.com/5uz5PSl.jpg

And I put it down on her own 4 feet again.
https://i.imgur.com/0H5rN4i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1f4DAKw.jpg

progmgr1

06-13-2022, 05:21 PM

Sorry for the confusion, but I'm using the stock Ford shifter that came with the 2017 Power Pack - not the Lokar unit. As far as I can tell, my shifter doesn't have a Sport Shift capability. Maybe Ford used paddle shifters that year? In any case, this isn't an issue I'm looking into and I can't offer any insights.

Keith HR #894

Alan_C

06-13-2022, 09:22 PM

Keith: Thanks for the reply. In the 2017 GT I used for my drivetrain donor, the vehicle had paddle shifters.
I am using the Lokar sport shifter and purchased the Power by the Hour kit to add three wires to indicate sport mode, shift up, and shift down inputs. So once I have it all wired correctly, I remain hopeful that I can get the sport mode to work directly with the PCM or via reprogramming.

Svtfreak

06-15-2022, 10:45 PM

Sorry, Keith. I though you had.

The 2017 mustang shifter should go into sport position. It was one step past drive. I wonder who I spoke to who was trying to make It work with the lokar though.

Alan, the kit from pbh only allows you to take over manually for a bit. It is the same as leaving a 17 mustang in drive (not shifting to sport mode), and using the paddle shifters. It will take back over after a few seconds, and the throttle and shifting maps do not change. Sport mode was entered by shifting the gear selector one step past drive. This moved the trans lever into another drive (basically). That sends a signal to the ecu that then changed throttle and shifting characteristics, and, then, if you shifted manually, it would stay in manual mode until taken out of sport mode. That whole scheme is what I am told by FRPP that the controls pack can’t do. I don’t remember if the trans has the sport mode position on it but will be checking that later. I thought about trying to change the length of the arm on the trans to give more movement to allow me to try to get the lokar to get the extra position then see if FRPP is right about the ecu not having a sport mode function built into it. That said, the wire kit you have (same as I have) does allow you to shift it much like paddles (nothing saying you can’t use paddles and switches on the wheel, I’m just using the lokar cause its there and looks cool). It’ll just take back over after a little bit. From driving my 2015 mustangs, it’s a very useful function. I used to downshift using the paddle to pass other cars quite frequently. Down shift, start passing and let the computer take back over for upshifts. I still do it in my gt500 but it is programmed a little different and more aggressive.

If you are using a donor computer out of a 2015+ mustang, then it will def have the full sport mode function in it. But you still have to get the trans lever input shaft into the correct position. One step past the drive spot. But then you also wouldn’t need the pbh kit, but you’d need to find the right wires in the donor harness to connect to whatever switches you use for the shifting.

Edit: sorry Alan. I just saw the reply above my update on my car. I never caught, are you using a controls pack ecu and harness or a donor? If I didn’t make sense above, we can chat on phone one day. I’m not always good at conveying things lol.

Alan_C

06-16-2022, 08:04 AM

I am using the PCM supplied with the controls pack. Although I have the original PCM from the donor car, the fuel system config and other required nannys do not make its use an option.
I installed and adjusted the Lokar cable linkage prior to starting body and paint. I spent about an hour getting the full range of travel for the shifter to hit all the gear positions from Park to Drive. The Lokar has a position for sport where it the shifter is moved over providing access to the shift up and shift down detents.
It seems like it is all there, but don't know why Ford skimmed on the sport mode programming for the controls pack. I will just have to hope that there is a solution when I have the car up and running.

Svtfreak

06-16-2022, 09:05 PM

Svtfreak

06-23-2022, 10:12 AM

Got headlights done today. After fighting with ffr’s recommended method for several hours and just not being happy with it, I made my own. I had trouble getting the body interface just right with spacers. The angles didn’t match up, and I just couldn’t get it to match up. Combined with how I couldn’t access the space between the metal mount and the body because of my new flanges due to cutting the side panel, I made my own method. The headlight mount now doesn’t touch the body. I made a spacer that sets the bucket the right distance from the metal mount. The rubber “bushing” I made between the bucket trim and the body squished just enough to take up the space there, so it now has minimal pressure on the body panel itself.

https://i.imgur.com/jju6E6g.jpg

Enlarged the hole in the body for the new longer spacer to go through it.
https://i.imgur.com/Acn3Xvn.jpg

The stack against the body panel.
https://i.imgur.com/5nRtMY1.jpg

The finished product. Yeah I know she’s cross eyed right now lol
https://i.imgur.com/7oGvXc4.jpg

Svtfreak

07-07-2022, 10:31 AM

Got the shop all cleaned out today, blew dust off all the perlins, swept and washed the floor.
https://i.imgur.com/MeTZHYL.jpg

RoadRacer

07-07-2022, 10:44 AM

Got the shop all cleaned out today, blew dust off all the perlins, swept and washed the floor.

Now that's a nice size shop! And a driveway! dreaming.. :)

Svtfreak

07-07-2022, 01:06 PM

Now that's a nice size shop! And a driveway! dreaming.. :)

Haha! Yes I do enjoy my shop. Although it’s not big enough! It’s 24x30 mueller. Perfect for 2 cars. Really good for just one project but I’m making do storing my cobra in there and building the 33. I wish it was 36x30. The driveway is a result of placement. So I ended up with a long one to connect to the neighbors driveway across the back of my property. I do want to add a cover out front of my shop to give me a shaded place to wash cars, work outside when needed.

Alan_C

07-07-2022, 08:50 PM

Ah garage space, like software, you fill the available space and then want more.
Just submitted docs for permit on my garage expansion. Adding 24x42 (1008 sq. ft.) expansion next to existing 1100 sq. ft. attached garage. I have one more build in mind after this one is done in 2 years.

Svtfreak

07-11-2022, 01:17 PM

Great plans, Alan! That’ll be a nice addition.

Installed a couple aluminum panels today and predrilled everything. The trunk and the door sills. I also did the trunk floor hole covers. Still have a couple small ones to do. Finding little stuff to do before I take it apart. And, mostly, spending time with my youngest today.

https://i.imgur.com/mJ8gBi2.jpg

Really just posting to show off this knucklehead. He had a blast learning how to use the “ppssher” (think the sound the air rivet gun makes) and the “fart sound hole maker” (think air drill) lol.

https://i.imgur.com/xd6OEMx.jpg

progmgr1

07-11-2022, 03:50 PM

Now if you can just get him interested in block sanding you'll be set to finally finish that car:rolleyes:. Glad to see you're still making progress.

Keith HR #894

Svtfreak

07-11-2022, 04:04 PM

Now if you can just get him interested in block sanding you'll be set to finally finish that car:rolleyes:. Glad to see you're still making progress.

Keith HR #894

Haha! Yeah, I’m not ready for that. This boy is rough. I’ll turn my back and he’ll have sanded the whole car down to the cement! He’s sumthin’. I wonder where he gets it…..

Me too, Keith. I lost motivation for a bit but found it again. Things got slow due to life and just not feeling it. But, boy am I feeling it now. lol. Taking the wife to Disney this week (no kids!) and, assuming i don’t come up with anything else needing done, I’ll be starting disassembly just a couple days after we get home. After I make an adjuster for the area rear of the cockpit to support that body across in front of the trunk anyway.

33fromSD

07-11-2022, 05:48 PM

Haha! Yeah, I’m not ready for that. This boy is rough. I’ll turn my back and he’ll have sanded the whole car down to the cement! He’s sumthin’. I wonder where he gets it…..

Me too, Keith. I lost motivation for a bit but found it again. Things got slow due to life and just not feeling it. But, boy am I feeling it now. lol. Taking the wife to Disney this week (no kids!) and, assuming i don’t come up with anything else needing done, I’ll be starting disassembly just a couple days after we get home. After I make an adjuster for the area rear of the cockpit to support that body across in front of the trunk anyway.

My wife goes to Disney all the time by herself (from SoDak) but her and I get down there every Fall for food & wine festival, also no kids. Of course our kids are all grown up now maybe someday we'll have grand kids to take but for now, I have to say I enjoy Disney a whole lot more now without kids then I did when we took the kids.

Jim

Svtfreak

07-11-2022, 07:27 PM

My wife goes to Disney all the time by herself (from SoDak) but her and I get down there every Fall for food & wine festival, also no kids. Of course our kids are all grown up now maybe someday we'll have grand kids to take but for now, I have to say I enjoy Disney a whole lot more now without kids then I did when we took the kids.

Jim

I am absolutely with you on that. We took the kids a little over a year ago. My 15 year old is so dadgum hard headed and can’t behave he made it nearly miserable. I have no plans to take him back lol. That’s one reason we going. It’s the start of the food and wine and we staying at boardwalk to walk in through the back. Gonna be a blast. And, we chase the food. They really make it easy with the celiacs that my wife has for her to enjoy good meals. She got us royal table, be our guest, the new space 2020 and a few other good ones. Beaches and cream even, I wanted that one lol. It really is fun to be an adult and just let the magic take over. But, I also know it’s not for everyone. I’ve told some of my guys at work before they left that it wouldn’t be their thing, but give them tips on how to still enjoy it knowing their personalities. My wife says we should be Disney travel agents. Problem is, I don’t like dealing with entitled people. I’d end up getting fired lol!

GoDadGo

07-11-2022, 07:53 PM

SVT,

I'm Glad You Are Back In High-Gear!!
Looking Good Fellow Swamp-Lander, Looking Good!

Steve

Svtfreak

07-20-2022, 01:33 PM

SVT,

I'm Glad You Are Back In High-Gear!!
Looking Good Fellow Swamp-Lander, Looking Good!

Steve

Thanks Steve!! Whew, ain’t it been hot? I ain’t supposed to know what a chicken wang feels like in an air fryer.

Made a brace for the rear deck today. Here it is holding up to the back side. Can’t mount it till the body is off.
https://i.imgur.com/0VIGpvl.jpg

A few pics I grabbed before I started taking stuff off it.
https://i.imgur.com/XQSP3gu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HVYNbLQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0Tg4WrD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2a2YHII.jpg

There probably won’t be many updates as I take it apart. Will be posting occasionally then more when I start reassembly.

Svtfreak

07-27-2022, 06:08 AM

Gonna share a little trick. I did this on the big hinge mounts and it worked real well so I’m trying it also on the door hinge parts inside the door. After everthing was good and lined up, I drilled and tapped two holes through the parts and ran a long bolt through. Upon reassembly after paint (or whatever reason it gets taken apart) you can get everything back close and run the bolts through and it should bring everything back to real close to where it belongs. Keep in mind, though, that any coating between the parts might have to be cleaned off for threads to line up right. Haven’t gotten that far yet. Maybe just drilling and using a pin might be a better ticket, like Knifemakers use to test then assemble knives.

https://i.imgur.com/tw6qAMk.jpg

Alan_C

07-27-2022, 08:44 AM

Svtfreak

07-30-2022, 02:12 PM

I agree locater pins/screws are the ticket for quicker reinstallation after painting. I had seen several times the use of a 1/8" holes used for this purpose. Your comment on the need to chase the threads after painting is a good one. I just spent hours getting my door hinges positioned for good door alignment. Given all the effort it took to get the doors positioned, I would hate to go through all of that again with fresh paint on the car. I remember the trick we were taught at Build School to use #30 drill bits over 1/8" size as they allowed the rivets to be inserted more easily. That made me think that I will likely drill my locater holes with the #30 bit and then use 1/8" rod for the locater holes. Maybe this will eliminate the need to chase the holes after painting before assembly.

Very good thinking Alan! I threaded mine but a pin would work. My first thought was “what keeps the pin from falling out?” Then I thought “hey stupid, just bend the ends over once inserted”. But I had already threaded mine so bolts it is. Lol. I may switch to pins on the last few I need to do. Trunk mounts, hood brackets and radiator brackets is ones I have left to do.

Alan_C

07-30-2022, 06:33 PM

There are many ways to skin the cat. After you are done, please report back on how it went for those who follow and are looking for ideas.

Svtfreak

08-07-2022, 07:29 AM

There are many ways to skin the cat. After you are done, please report back on how it went for those who follow and are looking for ideas.

Surely will when that time comes.

Meanwhile….

Disassembly is progressing. Slowly. But, getting there. Decided to start blasting and painting some of the stuff I’ll be painting just for corrosion prevention. But, here it is. The first parts painted!

https://i.imgur.com/16tNpeS.jpg

Svtfreak

08-09-2022, 01:29 PM

All her guts are showing!
https://i.imgur.com/89Nmqho.jpg

To keep things straight, I’m stamping the parts D and P and making notes on the baggies that stuffs going in.
https://i.imgur.com/F8WMgMj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Uf8J6qd.jpg

Svtfreak

10-04-2022, 11:14 AM

50something work hours later, some of that fixing up loose ends, it’s apart!

https://i.imgur.com/6nvB0sc.jpg

Alan_C

10-04-2022, 04:42 PM

Svtfreak

11-22-2022, 11:43 AM

Sometimes progress looks like just the opposite. I imagine that you will be sending the frame out for powder coat soon. Once it is back, then the real fun begins as you assemble for what should be the last time.
Although not a FF, my Mustang restomod is approaching the same stage you are in. The last of my body panels have been welded on. I received a Autotwirler body cart Monday that I need to paint as it is bare metal. Then all the suspension comes off the body so that it can be put on the body cart. Then the fun begins trying to fit the fenders and hood. Lots of work ahead, but it is progress toward body and paint.
Keep the posts coming as I am really looking forward to seeing your car done and on the road.

That’s a cool project you got. I love restomods. And you’re exactly right. Now the fun begins lol.

Got it back from powder coat today. Now I have to bring the small parts to another coater and match the color, and begin some painting of parts. Not the body yet. Still a bit before some serious reassembly will start.

https://i.imgur.com/7nbgsdf.jpeg

Alan_C

11-23-2022, 08:59 PM

Boy what a transformation as the powder coating looks great!

GoDadGo

11-24-2022, 02:40 PM

SVT,

Did you bring it to Anode Inc, which is over here in Slidell, to have it done?

https://www.anodeinc.com/

Just wondering because that's the only shop that I know of that can handle larger items.

Steve

Ford & Jeep Fan

11-27-2022, 05:47 PM

Lots done today on my first real full day able to work on her!

Finished the firewall with 10-24 button head stainless bolts. Installed the steering column and shaft, the power steering unit but probably have to reclock it later.
........
https://i.imgur.com/gtbNuuB.jpg

I have to ask what is the brand and type of power steering unit is that??

Svtfreak

12-02-2022, 12:41 PM

Boy what a transformation as the powder coating looks great!
No doubt there!

SVT,

Did you bring it to Anode Inc, which is over here in Slidell, to have it done?

https://www.anodeinc.com/

Just wondering because that's the only shop that I know of that can handle larger items.

Steve
No sir. I brought it to Baton Rouge powder coating. Their oven is big enough. The small guy that is going to do most of my coatings oven was 6” too short. Not sure he could have handled it anyway. He’s 80!

I have to ask what is the brand and type of power steering unit is that??

That’s the optional one for gen 1 from FFR. Electrasteer. If you need more info, I’ll have to go find the paperwork. But it was the FFR supplied one.

I put the fist parts in the frame today. Before they got lost lol! The rear body mount sheet metal nuts.
https://i.imgur.com/2MlnKQP.jpeg

Then, I cleaned out all that trashy dot 5 brake fluid to prep for normal stuff. Lots of parts. Getting new calipers so I didn’t bother with them.
https://i.imgur.com/zniv2YR.jpg

I am currently waiting on more parts to be powder coated and the powder to get here. I had to match the product one place used with another brand. And they actually have one that is nearly indistinguishable. So I have that coming. Gonna be a lot of waiting over the next couple months for powder coating, a couple peices to paint, and just not in a big hurry. I’m about to invest in a decent gun and teach myself to paint.

Svtfreak

12-12-2022, 03:16 PM

Another batch back! All of the suspension that’s getting done is done. Had to wait on bringing my big pile of aluminum to be done for now. Probably right after the first of the year. Had some unexpected expenses come up and I’d rather not dip into savings. So I’ll take a little delay. But, tomorrow, I can get started on some real reassembly!
https://i.imgur.com/4YCBLpO.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/6j4n1XD.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/nByHvso.jpg

Svtfreak

12-13-2022, 03:01 PM

Reassembly has begun. Rear end housing is hung.

https://i.imgur.com/Dg3CUeZ.jpeg

Svtfreak

12-17-2022, 05:19 PM

Took my 5 year old out today to work on it. About 30 minutes and he’d had enough. There wasn’t near about enough hammer work for him to stay entertained lol. He helped for a bit before he got distracted. One an arm and one shock installed. ��. And it was worth it.
176887

Alan_C

12-17-2022, 10:41 PM

I was going to suggest getting him one of the Factory Five 33 Hot Rod or Truck RC models until I saw the price.

Svtfreak

12-23-2022, 12:55 PM

I was going to suggest getting him one of the Factory Five 33 Hot Rod or Truck RC models until I saw the price.

I was gonna get one for me until I saw the price. I have enough hobbies! Lol

Svtfreak

01-18-2023, 02:45 PM

Axles in, new seals and bearings in place, rear end is done and sealed up.
https://i.imgur.com/IN4w3rS.jpeg

That’s a big old pile of powder coated aluminum panels.
https://i.imgur.com/T0Wm1jQ.jpeg

Svtfreak

01-19-2023, 12:30 PM

RoadRacer

01-19-2023, 03:54 PM

Since you're going for such pretty finishes, get the Kootenai bump steer kit..

Just 1 More

01-19-2023, 04:31 PM

Since you're going for such pretty finishes, get the Kootenai bump steer kit..

Last I talked to him he was getting out and not producing any more, I hope that has changed

JimLev

01-19-2023, 08:52 PM

Front suspension done. Except for steering rod ends. Those have to be painted to match the rest but don’t have what I need yet. I’ll do that when I do the firewall, motor/trans and steering column. Which I need to start thinking about spending that money. I need some overtime.

https://i.imgur.com/uGDcNd1.jpg

Looking at your pic I think you have those A arms on the wrong side.
Maybe it doesn’t matter or was there a recent change that isn’t in my manual?

Mastertech5

01-19-2023, 10:34 PM

You're right. LCAs should be swapped side to side. The short adjustment part should be in the rear.

Svtfreak

01-23-2023, 11:47 AM

Since you're going for such pretty finishes, get the Kootenai bump steer kit..
Why do you say that, if I might ask?

Looking at your pic I think you have those A arms on the wrong side.
Maybe it doesn’t matter or was there a recent change that isn’t in my manual?

You're right. LCAs should be swapped side to side. The short adjustment part should be in the rear.

Y’all are exactly right. Someone pointed it out on Facebook also. I have swapped with around without marring my powder. A small amount of heat, an old nut and a big aluminum drift with a big hammer got them apart.

Correct now!
https://i.imgur.com/myQEUp7.jpg

The whole chassis
https://i.imgur.com/F4DB3kQ.jpg

And I put the brake pedal and MC in today piddling around. I think I have some painting to do before I go much farther and I need a new gun so might be a minute.
https://i.imgur.com/dR71sb9.jpg

RoadRacer

01-23-2023, 06:00 PM

Why do you say that, if I might ask?

Cos you said you hadn't painted the steering rod ends yet, but the bump steer kit is already so pretty out of the box. and functional too of course, but it looks nice and needs no paint.

Svtfreak

02-03-2023, 10:33 PM

Cos you said you hadn't painted the steering rod ends yet, but the bump steer kit is already so pretty out of the box. and functional too of course, but it looks nice and needs no paint.

I’m gonna have to check that out. Thanks!

progmgr1

02-04-2023, 04:04 PM

I have the Kootenai Valley bump steer kit and it's very nice, but I saw somewhere that Tim Whittaker was retiring and not making any more. However, Maximum Motorsports has a variety of bump steer kits that you could probably adapt: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Search.aspx?k=bump

HTH Keith HR #894

Svtfreak

02-07-2023, 04:26 PM

Thanks Keith. I’ll look into that too.

Chose the color today and got it all either on hand or ordered. It’s a 2 coat color based on Honda Indy mica yellow. Had a ton of pearl in the base to give it that candy look. Should be sexy! Just waiting on the white primer, etch primer and my new gun to get here.
179464179465

progmgr1

02-07-2023, 05:42 PM

Svtfreak

02-07-2023, 08:11 PM

I used to have a (German) Ford Capri II that was about that color. It really stands out in a crowd!

So where did you get your paint? I'm still searching for the perfect color, so seeing a different palette might be useful...

Thanks, Keith HR #894

There’s a local business here called capital auto paint. They are a primarily Ppg dealer, and have a few other stuff. Evercoat, 3M, house of Kolors and stuff. I was perusing the auto paint chip catalogs and he asked what I was looking for. I told him I wanted a metallic yellow. He started pulling out all kinds of stuff including some they sprayed in house to show. I told him I wanted 2004 mustang screaming yellow but with metallic. When I told him that, he went right to the book to see it, then said “oh, I got just what you want”. He pulled out a paint flip catalog of this and went right to it. It’s so close, dead on in some lights, as far as shade, but dances in moving light. He even had a little light that mimicked sunlight, fluorescent, and warm lights. He was very helpful.

Sorry, I kinda got side tracked. But it’s a locally owned paint supply house that specializes in Ppg. They only carry ppf and HOK as far as paint.

That’s exactly what I want! I wanna stand out but not be too orange or too zincy pale lemon. I think this one will be perfect.

progmgr1

02-07-2023, 10:22 PM

JimLev

02-07-2023, 11:39 PM

I used PPG Deltron 2000, it’s very good paint. I’ve used titanium silver and Corvette Racing Yellow on my hotrod.

Svtfreak

02-16-2023, 12:02 PM

I was looking at a PPG "Vibrance" color that was close to what I wanted. However, the painter I planned to use (before Covid) told me that he didn't like the PPG paints, saying that they were difficult to get consistent results. He had a similar opinion about HOK paints, but with much more profanity.

Recently, that painter had a heart attack and was forced to close his shop. Maybe now that I have to find a new painter I should go back to the PPG store to see what they have on offer these days.

Keith HR #894

That’s weird. Everyone I know says deltron is the best base to use hands down. The only complaint is price. Now, around here, the new low Voc and water base isn’t required. Maybe that’s why?

I used PPG Deltron 2000, it’s very good paint. I’ve used titanium silver and Corvette Racing Yellow on my hotrod.

The only reason I’m not going deltron is they don’t have a recipe for the color I want. I don’t use their filler primer either because that’s just asinine, 560$ for a gallon. I use roberlo, dry sand then prime with dvlf and do a final 800 grit wet sand.

Pulled all the crap off and out the coyote and got it and trans taped up. Now I just need a gun! It cleared customs. Oh, and a decent day. No telling when that’ll come in south LA. I’m hoping to paint these parts (and firewall, steering column) march 1/2 when I’m off a good time.

https://i.imgur.com/7gUp0Rp.jpeg

Svtfreak

03-01-2023, 02:27 PM

Got a little color!!! Exciting day.

The photo of motor and trans and the steering column are the right shade in photos. The up close isn’t but shows the base effect with flake and pearl in it. My flashlight is very white and kinda zincy’s it out. I have some polishing to do. Got a pretty good bit of orange peel. Should come out easy though.

https://i.imgur.com/7HfvfNS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zuHUv82.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xkfqnXe.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/xLjHMye.jpeg

Svtfreak

03-07-2023, 04:13 PM

So stoked to see some of the final color being mated to the is big canvas of silver. Got the column reassembled and mounted. And got the firewall in. Friday, I hope to get the motor and trans installed.
https://i.imgur.com/DTGINhE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2kZxs6o.jpg

Svtfreak

03-10-2023, 02:51 PM

Motor and trans in! Next is other half of engine control harness (it has the shifter wires), exhaust and floor panels, and trans cooler fittings and lines so I can do the trans tunnel.

Anyone guide me where I can source the grafoil square exhaust gasket for 90* to straight tube flange?

https://i.imgur.com/qeYaomY.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/0LrvhmA.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/T2UtHpR.jpeg

Flyin coyote!
https://i.imgur.com/pj62Uuz.jpeg

Alan_C

03-11-2023, 11:17 AM

Edit: due to Photobucket brain fart, all the pics in my thread became unviewable. I changed some of the later ones out to imagur, especially where I began deviating from FFR build. The first few pages, I did not and will not go back and reupload and change the links. If you have a question, feel free to ask, but it's all pretty straightforward FFR build until I got to the brake lines. It's about there that I closed the manual and will use it for reference only at times. So please scroll down and photos will start working again.

Guess it's as good a place to start as any. Got all parts inventoried. A couple small things missing. Got the frame on jack stands. Friday, I'll cut grass then maybe start on the front end. I do need to build a body buck but I am anxious to start!

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/svtfreak1/Mobile%20Uploads/2150F6CE-6698-4098-B979-C37B6EAB7AC7.jpg (http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/svtfreak1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2150F6CE-6698-4098-B979-C37B6EAB7AC7.jpg.html)

For many, photobucket has been a pain in the arse. I see you changed over to Imgur, good choice as I have been using it for several years without issue.

Svtfreak

04-05-2023, 06:23 AM

For many, photobucket has been a pain in the arse. I see you changed over to Imgur, good choice as I have been using it for several years without issue.

Yeah, it does good for me. The social part of it irritates me, so I avoid using it other than hosting images lol

Got floor pans and trans tunnel in. Had to get a few things done that’s under the tunnel and pans rather than later when it was all on. Exhaust, trans cooler lines, ac and the second half of the coyote harness that goes through the tunnel. Thinking about what’s next. Fuel system and wiring probably. I also painted my coil covers. But they came out terribly. Probably going to redo them when I paint the car.

https://i.imgur.com/1fadOWU.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/oJNq8My.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/CROTz47.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/VtIz9ml.jpeg

Svtfreak

04-05-2023, 12:45 PM

Put in the floor part and the tank today. And a little wiring under there while I had access. One more main wire to run and hook up later on. Installed fuel vent filter, filter, and plumbing to the regulator.

https://i.imgur.com/LgED2WW.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/AQoW9KQ.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/3MjL92A.jpeg

Svtfreak

04-12-2023, 02:39 PM

Had a bad day Friday. The back wall did not go well. No pics yet. Still fixing that lol.

But I played with a few other things today. Had a few minutes. Working some overtime the next two weeks so will ne put aside.

Doing my best to alleviate any polishing. Ever. I’ve done the whole chrome and polished aluminum thing (on a t bucket) before. Not fun for me. The accent color here is the silver powder coat. Even had the ac fittings and plate done. Little by little.

https://i.imgur.com/xlSY0mx.jpg

GoDadGo

04-12-2023, 08:59 PM

Looking Good!

Svtfreak

04-19-2023, 11:07 PM

Looking Good!

Thanks Steve!

Svtfreak

04-26-2023, 10:58 AM

Interior tub finished up today
https://i.imgur.com/zywQ26J.jpeg

Made up brake lines out the flex lines. Installed steering motor and finished up the ecu harness below the motor.
https://i.imgur.com/HkatE3M.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/VQNWH0r.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/FL1NqRm.jpeg

narly1

04-26-2023, 11:05 AM

Looking very nice!

It's a shame that there's a lot of paint detail that's going to be buried under carpet and behind panels though.

But you'll know it's there and that's all that matters.:)

Earl

Svtfreak

04-26-2023, 12:46 PM

Looking very nice!

It's a shame that there's a lot of paint detail that's going to be buried under carpet and behind panels though.

But you'll know it's there and that's all that matters.:)

Earl

Hehe yeah earl, there’s a lot that’ll be hidden. I want it to look right when behind. Pull a door panel and it looks finished, lift the carpet and it still finished. I know I’m going overboard, but you right. It’s what I want to do ��.

Svtfreak

05-09-2023, 02:00 PM

Awww hell yeah! Two of the biggest pieces of jewelry on today. The blower and the grill. To be fair, the blower just sitting there looking sexy. I still have to pressure test the cooling and heater system before I tighten all that down. There’s a couple fittings under it that leaked on me that j want to make sure are a-ok before I do it all up for final time.

https://i.imgur.com/6bEVs9H.jpg
Powder coated to match the rest
https://i.imgur.com/YIygOM8.jpg
Glad I invested in replica parts fan shroud
https://i.imgur.com/dJP3zTx.jpeg
Dat mouth!
https://i.imgur.com/blhKUpo.jpeg
Very pleased with how it’s looking. Mill lookin KILLER
https://i.imgur.com/olOFMvt.jpeg

Mastertech5

05-11-2023, 06:24 PM

Awesome!

Svtfreak

05-16-2023, 11:07 AM

Awesome!

Thank you!

Since last post, lots of small stuff. Finished up cooling and heater systems, pressure tested, mounted up the blower, ran belt, tidy’d up wiring a bit.

But today is a big one!

We got whoa power. Thanks to Mr Gordon Levy, we got 13.5” 6 piston at the front and 12.5” 4 at the back. I wanted just slotted but the rears come either both drilled and slotted or none, so we got both! Still have to finish the rear lines as I wasn’t sure where these would land. I like the way the black lines look better. They match the braided nylon I have everywhere else much better.

https://i.imgur.com/VAafsE1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W3MM2IO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Rk2WFWV.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/HjkRIqT.jpeg

I know it looks like the hose is too short for turning in the front but it works. Plenty slack for way past lock. The location being closer to the center helps a lot. And that little 45* bend does too.

Ok. It’s been a long week. My two oldest boys was in with their girlfriends (one is now a fiancé!) for the week and weekend. I’ve been in the shop and in front of the stove all week. They requested all their favorites. Meatloaf, quesadillas, chicken wings, jambalaya, smothered potatoes, so I’ve been busy all week. We got Austin boy off yesterday and Seattle boy to the airport this morning. I go back to work tomorrow night. So, I’m calling it a day and probably a week until my next day off. Gonna take a rest lol. Plus I wanna meditate on this project a bit. Two brake lines, some fluids and an air intake and I think it’s ready to start again but I want to ponder and make sure I’m not missing something.

Svtfreak

06-27-2023, 11:40 AM

Finally got into the shop. Summer is rough. Kids are off and wife only works 2 days a week. I usually keep the kids when she does. A bit of overtime. Left my 2 watching Star Wars while I got out here and tightened up a few things. And guess what happened……

https://i.imgur.com/Qt2NZSs.mp4

Now, to be fair, I spent a lot of time making sure fuel system was primed and it was electrically solid. But still, since it ran last I have touched every part and cut open and modded every harness. So I was pretty stoked at how easily she came to life.

33fromSD

06-27-2023, 01:14 PM

Svtfreak

07-12-2023, 08:48 AM

Hit a bit of an obstacle today. Filled and bled the new brakes. Everything went pretty good. Got it all full and working. Let it sit overnight and went to bleed once more. Midway through the rears, I stopped getting fluid out. Pedal don’t drop, and even with my wife pushing hard as she can, I can turn the driveshaft by hand, turning the rotors. The fronts seem to be fine. Can’t spin them, pedal drops when I bleed. The rears though. Tried turning the prop valve in and out. No change. I know everything was clean and dry (flushed all lined, prop valve and MC with alcohol and dried out well a couple months back). I’m a bit stumped right now.

I put it all up for the day. Gonna be awhile before I can monkey with it again. Overtime next week then a Disney trip the week after with the family.

33fromSD

07-12-2023, 10:18 AM

RoadRacer

07-12-2023, 10:46 AM

I often end up bleeding both directions - but usually get the best results by reverse bleeding.

Svtfreak

07-12-2023, 11:48 AM

I'm sure you did, but since it was sitting so long, did you bleed the master cylinders again?

Jim

I did not. I’m thinking I should now though. What gets me, though, is it was working perfectly fine then just stopped. One bleed was fine and the very next press wasn’t the same and didn’t make pressure at the end.

I often end up bleeding both directions - but usually get the best results by reverse bleeding.

I’ve never done this but seen the term. How do you reverse bleed?

33fromSD

07-12-2023, 03:18 PM

Svtfreak

07-12-2023, 04:56 PM

Thinking about this more, Could the bias bar have gotten jammed preventing the push rod on the rear MC from fully engaging?

Also, are you doing the traditional pump the pedal / hold bleeding process only, or have you tried vacuum bleeding?

It's rare but I have personally experienced an air bubble in the lines completely stop fluid using the pump pedal / hold process.

Jim

Jim, I ditched the dual MC’s and have a wilwood in-line remote reservoir MC, now. Long story how I got there so I’ll save that lol. That said, I started and filled it with vacuum style and then finish bled using pump the pedal. I was very cautious not to let the reservoirs run empty when doing it and certain they didn’t (filled them when they got close to half).

Something I noticed that just raised a flag in my mind thinking about it. I did it all with the caps off until this morning when the problem arose. When I pulled them off after, I’m pretty sure that cap had sucked the rubber in. I’m wondering if a vacuum got pulled on that reservoir and caused this hiccup somehow, maybe because there might be an air bubble in there somewhere?

That’s interesting about the air bubble blocking something up. You wouldn’t think that could happen. But air embolism is the same idea and will kill you.

RoadRacer

07-12-2023, 05:51 PM

I did not. I’m thinking I should now though. What gets me, though, is it was working perfectly fine then just stopped. One bleed was fine and the very next press wasn’t the same and didn’t make pressure at the end.

I’ve never done this but seen the term. How do you reverse bleed?

Ah, sorry. TLDR; you push fluid in the caliper, and bubbles come out of the MC. I still think the design/layout of the 33's brake linesw means more bubbles will come out that way.

I still use a real silly cheap plastic tool to do this - this one in fact (https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=reverse+bleeding+kit&qid=1689202198&sprefix=reverse+bleed%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-6) but if you search for reverse bleed tool you can buy a nicer metal version for $150-$200.

Svtfreak

07-12-2023, 06:40 PM

Ah, sorry. TLDR; you push fluid in the caliper, and bubbles come out of the MC. I still think the design/layout of the 33's brake linesw means more bubbles will come out that way.

I still use a real silly cheap plastic tool to do this - this one in fact (https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=reverse+bleeding+kit&qid=1689202198&sprefix=reverse+bleed%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-6) but if you search for reverse bleed tool you can buy a nicer metal version for $150-$200.

Thanks, James! I may pick one up and try that method also.

I have very little of ffr’s brake system remaining, to be honest. Wilwood single in line MC, remote reservoir, all stainless 3 a brake lines, and wilwood brakes from Levy racing.

Mastertech5

07-12-2023, 10:32 PM

It is normal for the diaphragm to get sucked down as you bleed or the pads wear. That's why they have folds in them. They are air barriers so your brake fluid doesn't absorb water from the air. Did you "bench bleed" the master cylinder? It is better to use a pressure bleeder than a vacuum bleeder. They push air out as opposed to possibly sucking air in if you have a leak somewhere that may not show up until your done and hold the pedal down with some force.

Svtfreak

08-25-2023, 12:42 PM

Progress! Today, I got the coolant reservoir back in. I had to fix a tiny leak on the intercooler pump suction. It got worse! So I pulled it all out and took apart and then realized the pump was under a lot of strain. The plastic would not have lasted. So, I brought it over to a welder and has the suction welded in place. This did two things. 1) fixed the leak. Oh yeah lol. 2) lined the suction fitting up much better to the pump and for the strain off.

Moved on the figure out my rear brake issue. I took advice and bought a pressure bleeder. One pump in and bubbles came out the reservoir. Yep. It appears it pulled enough vacuum to suck a little air in the push on fittings on the MC for the remote reservoirs. They work great now! And I’ll never use a vacuum bleeder again. The pressure bleeder worked wonders lol. So, now I just need to start it up and get it hot, top off coolant and trans fluids. Then it’s on to body work!

Just 1 More

08-25-2023, 01:18 PM

Alan_C

08-25-2023, 05:31 PM

Good to see you back at it. It seemed like a long dry spell since you posted last.

Svtfreak

08-31-2023, 12:42 PM

What pressure bleeder did you go with?

The same one that road racer linked above.

Svtfreak

08-31-2023, 12:46 PM

You’ve no idea how true that is Alan lol. It was a hot dry summer (pun intended lol)

Today, I finished filling and burping the cooling system, and filled the trans fluid. I might have one tiny little oil leak at a fitting at the motor. Hard to tell. The brakes stop the rear wheels wonderfully. In the air anyway lol. Put some old wheels on her and put her on her own feet! My buddy and me gonna align it basic in 2 weeks (full week of work next week) and then I’ll hook up the tie rods and it’ll be time for a ride again! Other than that, I think it’s time to charge the ac and start body work. Oh, and I have a nasty belt squeal when you goose it. It revs SO fast. Gotta find and remedy that too. But all that’s pretty minor stuff.

https://i.imgur.com/yuIG12o.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MJeNyZ6.jpg

GoDadGo

08-31-2023, 02:37 PM

Looking Good!

Svtfreak

09-13-2023, 12:15 PM

Did a basic alignment and vac’d down the ac today.

https://i.imgur.com/g6nbKGF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QWIPkrF.jpg

peterh226

09-13-2023, 06:32 PM

that all looks very familiar!

Svtfreak

09-22-2023, 12:11 PM

Filling pinholes and scratchin it up.

https://i.imgur.com/TxcOykA.jpg

33fromSD

09-23-2023, 04:36 AM

Filling pinholes and scratchin it up.

https://i.imgur.com/TxcOykA.jpg

Call me crazy, but I miss this stage. I like doing body work, It's a lot of work but this is where you see the most dramatic changes to your ride. Looks great, keep it up.

Jim

Just 1 More

09-23-2023, 08:39 AM

Call me crazy, but I miss this stage. I like doing body work, It's a lot of work but this is where you see the most dramatic changes to your ride. Looks great, keep it up.

Jim
Jim AKA: Mr. CRAZY, i'll let you enjoy doing the body work on mine when the time comes .. All the beer and pizza you can eat and drink, maybe even a ribeye and whiskey if you're so inclined

Mastertech5

09-24-2023, 10:13 AM

33fromSD

09-25-2023, 05:12 AM

Different strokes for different folks. I like doing electrical and it's Greek to a lot of people. Bodywork is a necessary evil to me. I can do it, know how but it's tedious time consuming work and messy. Practice makes perfect I guess.

I love doing electric. There really isn't a whole lot I don't mind doing on all the builds I've done except drum brakes, not a fan. I'll do them, takes me a bit, but I always struggle with drum brakes.

Jim

Mastertech5

09-25-2023, 11:33 PM

I love doing electric. There really isn't a whole lot I don't mind doing on all the builds I've done except drum brakes, not a fan. I'll do them, takes me a bit, but I always struggle with drum brakes.

Jim

I have all the special tools for drum brakes. Haven't used them much in the last decade though. They make it a little easier but yes they suck and very dirty.

Svtfreak

09-28-2023, 02:26 PM

I don’t mind any part of it. Body work ain’t my favorite, but I don’t dislike it. The biggest thing to me is that I don’t have to do it. I can wait. I have no deadline, no time frame to meet. If I get irritated and wanna leave it be for a month, I can.

Charged up the ac today. It blows cold! A little humid is south LA right now. Drain works…..

Well, it wasn’t without hiccups. See all them wires hanging? Yeah, I thought I had the colors matched so it didn’t matter. Still got two mixed up. Took a bit to figure out why the fan was kicking on when the key turned off…. Then, it had all indications of cooling. Condensate forming. Pressures looked good. But blowing 90* air. How can that be? Guess what. If you have the heat knob turned all the way up, it heats up your freshly cooled air……. Yeah that took longer than I’d like to admit to figure out. Basically, lots of problems caused by the builder and electrician. I should kick his butt. Oh wait……

I did finish scratching the body. Got a couple small fixes curing then I’ll smooth that and it’s ready to clean and prime. Got a couple weeks of a lot of OT to work then ill scratch up all the rest of the parts and start planning when to lay some primer on it.

https://i.imgur.com/e6kp7Tu.jpeg