# 1002, SVTFreaks build. [Archive]

Svtfreak

05-09-2017, 02:34 PM

Edit: due to Photobucket brain fart, all the pics in my thread became unviewable. I changed some of the later ones out to imagur, especially where I began deviating from FFR build. The first few pages, I did not and will not go back and reupload and change the links. If you have a question, feel free to ask, but it's all pretty straightforward FFR build until I got to the brake lines. It's about there that I closed the manual and will use it for reference only at times. So please scroll down and photos will start working again.

Guess it's as good a place to start as any. Got all parts inventoried. A couple small things missing. Got the frame on jack stands. Friday, I'll cut grass then maybe start on the front end. I do need to build a body buck but I am anxious to start!

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/svtfreak1/Mobile%20Uploads/2150F6CE-6698-4098-B979-C37B6EAB7AC7.jpg (http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/svtfreak1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2150F6CE-6698-4098-B979-C37B6EAB7AC7.jpg.html)

GoDadGo

05-09-2017, 02:43 PM

1932

05-09-2017, 02:51 PM

OK more 33---No body buck needed.

Svtfreak

05-09-2017, 06:56 PM

Factory Five Racing Is Alive & Well In The Best State To:

Hunt, Fish, Eat, Party, Party, Party!
Hunt, Fish, Eat, Party, Party, Party!
Hunt, Fish, Eat, Party, Party, Party!

A Big Congratulations From Slidell!

Ain't no doubt about that! Haha! You know, after the flood and everything, I kinda forgot about you guys. I need to make my way over there one day for lunch.

OK more 33---No body buck needed.

You're right. It's not needed. But I prefer to do some things on one. Plus my room is limited so having it on wheels allows me to just open the door and push it outside while I'm working then roll it back inside when done for the day. I'll grind and fill the seams, redo the taillight mounts (I want something flush mount) and maybe do the gas filler cap (putting it in the body somewhere) on the buck.

myjones

05-10-2017, 07:08 AM

I suggest buying the storage lift as well as building a body buck. That lets you store the body overhead, out of the way and will be very useful later
when you want to move the body on and off to check various things. The lift has a 4' square platform that holds up to 250lbs and cranks up and
down pretty easy with a battery drill if you want one hand free to guide the body. You just hang the body under the platform and can even store a
few things on the top of it as well. Things like fenders, hood sides etc. that you won't need until much later in the build are out of the way up there.

I also suggest at this point you measure the passenger compartment carefully and find the center of the firewall and the cross tube the roll bar slides into.
The chassis gets a bit wonky beyond that box so use those base points and a laser to put center marks all over the chassis for later use. The body isn't
symmetrical enough to use that line for everything but you will use the line for things like locating and squaring the axle in the chassis.

Anxious to see the body changes you mention, you might look at Hagan for the fuel door changes if you want a sleek look there.
DB

Svtfreak

05-12-2017, 01:36 PM

Jones, thanks for the lift idea. I may do exactly that when I start the body work. My shop isn't tall with to work under it though lol. But that might make life easy whbdoing body. And es, I will do the center marks also shortly. Today I had to do the front end though haha. I think I've looked at Hagen already and decided to use theirs.

Built front suspension today. And also a body buck to put castors on to move it around and out of my way. I won't have as much time for the next month to work, as I have to keep my son on my days off. But in a month, we'll have more permanent care and I'll have time. Today I got a sitter so I could have some shop time lol.

Someone please tell me if my shocks can be mounted body up? And I will probably get some lightrrr springs.

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/svtfreak1/Mobile%20Uploads/B022A4C8-5754-4AAE-8839-ECBA5CD68763.jpg (http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/svtfreak1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B022A4C8-5754-4AAE-8839-ECBA5CD68763.jpg.html)

RoadRacer

05-12-2017, 05:43 PM

Someone please tell me if my shocks can be mounted body up? And I will probably get some lightrrr springs.

Not if silver http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24319-Inverting-Front-konis-on-33

Svtfreak

05-13-2017, 04:25 AM

Not if silver http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24319-Inverting-Front-konis-on-33

Thanks. Wasn't sure if the chrome (nickel) qualified as silver or not lol.

I'll have to figure out how to adjust them and how to set them up for the best ride eventually also.

Thanks road racer.

Svtfreak

05-28-2017, 02:40 PM

Hung the rear end yesterday. Got the fox length axles ordered so I can modify the brackets for the sn95 rear brakes. Front brakes installed. Nothing major yet. Marked the brackets I don't need for removal from from frame and rear end when I take apart to paint much later on down the road.

Leveled up the frame and gonna find center next and start on pedal box.

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/svtfreak1/Mobile%20Uploads/33004153-D111-4188-8745-D098E31DBC5B.jpg (http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/svtfreak1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/33004153-D111-4188-8745-D098E31DBC5B.jpg.html)

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/svtfreak1/Mobile%20Uploads/4A69FB8F-3583-4594-A20B-4B315C1438BF.jpg (http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/svtfreak1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4A69FB8F-3583-4594-A20B-4B315C1438BF.jpg.html)

Svtfreak

06-02-2017, 08:14 PM

No pics today, but I just finished building my brake lines on paper. 500$ later at speedway (at least it's still in my cart there) I have all stainless lines, all stainless fittings, save 2 3/8-24 IFM to 3an adapters for master cylinder. Oh that also includes a good 37* flare tool for stainless tubing.

I have decided to run the ABS power brake inc electric assist system that Tim, basmith and a couple other guys using. So I need to get that order d soon also I guess. Another 1350$ for the short master cyclinder version.

Svtfreak

06-09-2017, 01:20 PM

Put the fox length axles in, bolted up the back brakes, centered the rear end, laser shot the center line and rough aligned the front end. Then put the wheels on (just my build wheels) just to see what it looks like.

Next is firewall and brakes lines! Still need to order the power brake set up.
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/svtfreak1/Mobile%20Uploads/4685189E-0403-400B-AC31-2BEB039FE9B6.jpg (http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/svtfreak1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4685189E-0403-400B-AC31-2BEB039FE9B6.jpg.html)

Svtfreak

06-20-2017, 04:50 PM

Lots done today on my first real full day able to work on her!

Finished the firewall with 10-24 button head stainless bolts. Installed the steering column and shaft, the power steering unit but probably have to reclock it later. And started in brake lines. With the right tool, flaring stainless is easy! Got the rear line ran and ran to one side of the rear end. Have to cut the tabs off the rear end to mount the lines solid to. Fwiw, the Eastwood tubing straightener works like a charm!!

https://i.imgur.com/NLVxUU1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gtbNuuB.jpg

RoadRacer

06-20-2017, 05:02 PM

Svtfreak

06-20-2017, 05:41 PM

Looks neat going through the lower firewall like that, most I've seen (myself included) just go behind that panel.

Did you notch your firewall that infamous 1/4 inch? ;) http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/593609-33-ls1-t56-build.html#post5656258

Thanks! Yeah I wanted to seal that lower corner to prevent water ingress so I went with bulkhead 90*s to be able to. Inside, I'll build a "dead pedal" to cover up the inside. Outside, I was going to put a cover over them to hide them but I think I like to show them off lol.

I sure did. But I measured 1/2" difference when I mocked it up to the body. So it got 1/2". I had read that thread already and that info saved me a lot of time later. I don't mind undoing and redoing many times to get it just perfect, but that sure saved a lot of time and heartache later on!

RoadRacer

06-20-2017, 05:58 PM

But I measured 1/2" difference when I mocked it up to the body. So it got 1/2". I had read that thread already and that info saved me a lot of time later. I don't mind undoing and redoing many times to get it just perfect, but that sure saved a lot of time and heartache later on!

Good to know about the 1/2". I have no body, but this is why it's cleco'd until the very end :)

Svtfreak

06-23-2017, 06:09 PM

Looks neat going through the lower firewall like that, most I've seen (myself included) just go behind that panel.

Did you notch your firewall that infamous 1/4 inch? ;) http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/593609-33-ls1-t56-build.html#post5656258

Here's the other side of going through. I had a chance to run the first part of the front line today. This came out nice, I think. I got my abs systems power brake setup today. It's gonna be a feat to fit it all there behind the dash. I may have to either move the entire pedal box toward the firewall or turn the MC around and do a bell crank to 180* the force from the pedal. A simple stud with a bearing and a 1:1 arm would suffice but I also have to keep the MC low enough for the reservoirs to drain correctly. They are nice polished aluminum. I think illmount them on the firewall and use tubing and AN fittings to run the supply, return and pump supply lines. I'll put pics of hag I end up doing up. Gonna put the body on next and make that decision.

https://i.imgur.com/Iz4j7Wy.jpg

RoadRacer

06-23-2017, 06:21 PM

Just curious, are you assuming your firewall won't come off now? Did you silicone yet? I was amazed to see the next step was called "Final Firewall Install". Most seem to cleco until much later.

Svtfreak

06-24-2017, 07:48 AM

Just curious, are you assuming your firewall won't come off now? Did you silicone yet? I was amazed to see the next step was called "Final Firewall Install". Most seem to cleco until much later.

I shouldn't have said final. I meant final for now, not held on my c clamps any longer lol. No, it isn't siliconed on yet. Just bolted up. It will come off for paint and finish later on. Everything will come apart again for that (this car will be built twice basically). When I do final assembly, I will use GM seam sealer, which is more like the glue that manufactures use to seal together body panels. If I can still find it. It's some pretty serious glue.

Svtfreak

06-28-2017, 03:52 PM

Today, I finished the brake lines except for the axle end flex hoses. The ones I bought are too short and 45* ends will work better. Then I started on the master cylinder. I have the abs systems power brake kit. The two people I talked to used bell crank to change the direction to fit the MC. I put the body on and measures the room I had and opted to attempt to install backwards. I had 13" to the firewall tubing. I moved the pedal box forward, cut off the brackets for the wilwood cylinders. Then I threw the brake pedal out and moved the clutch pedal over to use. I drilled and tapped the end to fit the abs cylinder rod threads and screwed it in. Once I got the basics there, I ground out some more aluminum to move it forward a bit more and allow me to raise the brake pedal a bit more. Next, I put the body on again and checked fit. It fits! It's tight but works fine. So I ground a little more to improve fit and pedal placement a bit more. Then I made two angle brackets to bolt it to. One will be double bolted to the box and the other bolted to the box bolt and welded to the frame. I also have some gussets cut to add to the sides of each bracket to improve strength and I will add a bracket to put all 4 pedal box bolts in. I think it should work wonderfully once finished.

A couple of brake line pics just for novelty, and the last is the master cylinder mount work in progress. This is the abs 6 3/4" MC. I don't think the long one would fit. The reservoirs will be on the firewall with an lines to feed the MC, pump and overflow to tank.

https://i.imgur.com/NYv5Qqj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kQ9LRrc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/75NOvmM.jpg

Svtfreak

06-29-2017, 12:39 PM

Today, after fixing my old mans truck, I finished up the master cylinder mount. It works great. Plenty pedal travel. I'm certain it'll lock the brakes long before bottoming. Welded up the gussets andast bolt mount plate. Made a mount for the proportioning valve and ran the tubing from the MC and valve to the bulkheads at the base of the firewall. Other than two flex hoses and some mounting on rear end, brakes are done.

Now I gotta figure out how I'm gonna plumb and where I'm gonna mount the reservoir and pump the brakes. I am gonna use ss line and an for the high pressure leg for sure and I think braided line and an for the supply side to the pump and the return.

https://i.imgur.com/F2W41Jz_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=high

1932

06-29-2017, 07:40 PM

Will this stick out of the dash?

Svtfreak

06-29-2017, 08:06 PM

Will this stick out of the dash?

No sir. I measured with body on to make sure and then once mounted, I put the body on to make sure it fit. It's all behind the dash.

Svtfreak

06-30-2017, 05:02 PM

It appears Photobucket has changed their rules to not allow linking pics. Well, that's a bummer.

I'll try to get them all fixed when I can.

Svtfreak

07-04-2017, 03:02 PM

Today, I finished mounting my reservoir and started on the bracket for the hydraulic pump. This is the current plan. I haven't welded it on yet to let you guys critique and make sure I'm not missing something. It's far enough off cowl to allow for wiper stuff, far enough back (deeper than the ac Evap) to allow for gauges, and still not as low as the echo so should be hidden. It is inlet low so the pump itself is well below the reservoir. My only worry is removing the accumulator (the ball thing) to prime it. Might make a mess the way it's facing.

https://i.imgur.com/th03Zx9.jpg

Svtfreak

07-07-2017, 12:06 PM

Ok. Calling brakes done with mock up. I may charge the system later on but all equipment and pipes and tubes are in place. Finished up the hydraulic pump mount today and tubed everything up. When I take apart for paint, I've got a couple hose clamps to mount to the frame but otherwise, time to move on (after I get home from family beach trip).

Personally, I like the way it turned out.

Next I'll rough in some wiring, I think.

https://i.imgur.com/YmDE1r9.jpg

Svtfreak

07-21-2017, 03:40 PM

Installed the grill stack today. After about 20 hours of getting it all to fit together right. Forgot the overflow tank. I'll toss it in next week when I work on it.

This really makes it start looking like a 33 and not a dune buggy.

https://i.imgur.com/4LkPWYT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xbuAcH2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VVGXKno.jpg

Svtfreak

07-27-2017, 11:57 AM

Nothing major today. Spent the last week nursing my baby girl then myself back to health after stomach flu. Yesterday I prepped the cobra and brought it to church for a men's night attraction. Other people think it's nicer than j do, I guess lol. I did finally figure out its motor noise so that's a plus.

Modded and tossed on the pickup and level sensor and tossed in the rear compartment panel. I'm mounting with just a couple rivers and drilling all girls to make removal easy for paint and powder coat later. I think I'll go ahead and mount all aluminum and get the body started so I can be done with the manual lol.

https://i.imgur.com/lZekJCO.jpg

Svtfreak

08-09-2017, 03:09 PM

Had to work some overtime and keep baby boy a couple days. Not much done in the last week or so. Finally had some free time today to do some "loomium" work. E-brake stuff tomorrow.

https://i.imgur.com/ch99leJ.jpg

Svtfreak

08-10-2017, 02:00 PM

Put in the e brake handle today. Gotta wait on the trans tunnel for the motor and trans. Installed trunk floor, door hinges and set the body on. This weekend I'll watch some videos and read some threads about how best to ensure it's in the right place. I already see where I need to grind some glass around the bottom of the firewall. Not quite clearances correctly to fit. Nothing major changed from FFR build other than I had to turn the e brake mounting pad to opposite side to get the handle to mount in the right place.

I think now I'll go on to getting all the body panels to fit and work correctly. After that, when it comes off for primer and slicking, then I'll get the motor and trans and continue the mechanical parts, fuel lines, etc. Just keep saving, just keep saving (wasn't that a line off finding nemo?)

Looking more and more like a car!

https://i.imgur.com/mXjcBrQ.jpg

RoadRacer

08-10-2017, 06:24 PM

Looking good!! Looking forward to having a body :)

Svtfreak

08-14-2017, 02:35 PM

Good day today!

I started out by trimming the edge of the body at the lower. Firewall corners so they would tuck correctly. Then I trimmed the edge of the lip there so it wouldn't hit the frame and prevent the body from pulling in just right. Before and mid trim. Didn't get a decent after shot, just be warned the manual doesn't say anything about this and it won't fall in just right without it.
https://i.imgur.com/b2WRmuB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QRYkXx4.jpg

Next, I spent a couple of hours shifting, moving and checking the body, and then calling friends to come see if they found it to be square also. I followed the manual, and when I got done, the package tray was nowhere near the same plane as the cowl. Wut???? So I backed up and it dawned on me that the manual sucks. It never specifies to level up the *** end. Yeah, I shoulda got my head out my butt. So, after this:
https://i.imgur.com/OFRhtyK.jpg

I ended up with this:
https://i.imgur.com/V6vzYlq.jpg

So, then I had a couple people come over and double check both with tape and level and by eye to ensure it all looked right. Got their deals of approval. Everything looks plumb, square, straight and the gig line, when I put the hood on, even though it's not ground close to right, all looks like it's supposed to and not cattywompus.

So, I went ahead and drilled all the holes and tossed a few rivers at it to hold everything in place while I move forward fitting body panels.

Looking like a car more and more.

https://i.imgur.com/wgduVFT.jpg

erlihemi

08-14-2017, 06:29 PM

I had to make similar "reliefs" in the front and have 2 holes in the rear fender well also! I didn't notice your caliper and brake hose orientation at the rear, but I cut my inner wheel well tight to the frame just to make sure the hose cleared if I put a tool box in the trunk. Only use the manual for general guidance. Everyone's results vary along the way. Enjoy :)

erlihemi

08-14-2017, 06:33 PM

I see you ran a single brake line with a tee on the axle housing, soo your clear. Again I followed the manual in the beginning, and got over later.

Svtfreak

08-14-2017, 08:41 PM

Yes I did a single jumped to a t at the center section. Thanks for looking!

Svtfreak

08-15-2017, 11:27 AM

Couple hours today working on door slots. The manual doesn't detail how to mark the bottom ones or how or when to cut them out. Jumps from marking to putting body back on. Oh well. Here's what I did.

I marked the top and cut it out with a die grinder with body on. Test fitting hinge arm pretty often. Once I had the clearance, I used a rasp to square off the ends. I'll make that better when I take it off for final prep. Then, I measured the distance from the top of the top hinge standoff to the top of the bottom hinge standoff and then measured that distance from the slot top and bottom. That gave me the upper and lower of the lower arm cutout. Then I used a plumb to mark the ends. The cut it out just like the top slot. Worked like a champ.

Even though everything measures the same side to side, the driver upper slot ended up shorter than the passenger *boggle*.

https://i.imgur.com/uCbdWND.jpg

Svtfreak

08-16-2017, 06:23 PM

Svtfreak

08-18-2017, 08:18 PM

No pics but finished the slots for hinges and got the passenger door trimmed to fit in today. The back edge was cut very wrong so I did it first. Used a caliper to scribe a line to get an even edge and then set that in and sanded front to fit. I'll
Post pics when I get more done than just sanding some glas off.

erlihemi

08-21-2017, 06:55 PM

I've got weird stuff going on. I put the spacer under the door on passenger side and got everything leveled and clamped down and firewall fitting well all around and looks great. Except the drivers side door sill is naturally sitting about a 1/2" off the 1.5x1.5 frame. I don't see any reason to try to fix this as everything else fits perfectly and is straight and square. Anyone see any problems in my future over this? The frame does not hand below the body.
1/2" is a lot. Most people are complaining about 1/4" difference in the body. Mine was almost equal side to side but about 1/4" up. The roof was crooked. If you have the hard top plan on doing final door gap with the top bolted on. The top pulls the body in a little.

Svtfreak

08-21-2017, 07:01 PM

I prolly didn't need a 1/2". Now that I look at it. But what baffles me is why the other side pulled up also. Oh well, I'll work it out as I go. Maybe lol.

I am doing hard top. Thanks for the tip. I won't do any more than the rough door gap fitment until top is on. And then I'll have to figure out how to race it so that doesn't happen since I want to make top removable and changeable to roadster. I already have a plan for th package tray area and cowl area to stiffen the. Up drastically.

Svtfreak

08-23-2017, 04:04 PM

More doors. Hey, that rhymes.

Got about 10 hours in the passenger door so far. It's close. The striker sits too deep and I may need to adjust the angle on it's plate. The latch is dragging on it. I will attempt to move the door forward some after I affix the rear plate better than the little screws. I've used a combination of FFR instructions and the members videos (thanks to all). Before I attempt to move the door, so it'll latch easier and open easier, I will have to take a little off the front. The rear gap should wind up perfect then.

Adjusting body panels really isn't my forte. Lol

https://i.imgur.com/IoJNX4k.jpg

GoDadGo

08-23-2017, 04:07 PM

The Hot Rod Appears To Be Way Tougher To Build Than The Roadster!

RoadRacer

08-23-2017, 07:03 PM

The Hot Rod Appears To Be Way Tougher To Build Than The Roadster!

Shhh, don't tell us that!!

Svtfreak

08-23-2017, 07:47 PM

I don't like to say tougher. I'll say "more challenging". Lol

Yes at very different and obviously not refined by 10,000 builds. It's no easier than building your own using parts acquired from swap meets and speedway motors etc.

kraftee

08-24-2017, 06:06 AM

It's no easier than building your own using parts acquired from swap meets and speedway motors etc.

EXACTLY! I have had several people, when told it is a Factory Five, say, "Oh, so then it is just a kit." Grrrrrr. EVERY hot rod is a kit! We just happen to buy many of our pieces and parts from one source at one time!

Svtfreak

09-06-2017, 03:20 PM

This passenger door is kicking my behind. But I think I'm on the right track now.

It kept binding on the striker when closed. So I did several things trying to get it right. Moved it forward, changed the rear depth, etc. to no avail. Finally I saw it was dropping when off the striker to the slack in the hinge bushings. Well that ain't right. After lots of work, I finally realized that it was sitting on the bottom, and that was making everything out of whack. So I took some off the bottom edge and now it finally lines up and opens and closes without a problem. I haven't reinstalled the latch yet, but I will adjust it to fit the door on the proper place instead of trying to get the door on the right place by adjusting the latch. If that makes sense. Finally, it works like it's supposed to swing! Now to install the striker and then trim it to the correct gaps. I'll install latch tomorrow but I won't trim it until I blow it up to finish it.

Pic but can't really see anything different than before.

https://i.imgur.com/TCe1jHE.jpg

erlihemi

09-06-2017, 07:28 PM

I have a similar slight drop on the drivers side, but I left it alone as it didn't create an issue with the latch and it worked better with the Hard top gasket. As the door closes it moves up and seals the gasket. On the passenger side my door was good but I ruined the gasket soon after I put the hard top on because it was too tight vertically. I actually have pondered reversing the inner door frames and hinging at the front, but, not on this project. Maybe the MKIIHR will have better doors. Leave room for suicide safety latches while your in door mode also...

Svtfreak

09-07-2017, 12:41 PM

Thanks for that tip, erli. I'll watch out for that when I start on the hard top.

How does the windows fit into the hard top? Can you open the doors with the windows up, or do I have one hell of a task ahead of me to make it that way?

GOT IT!

Hah. Finally. After getting the door working right without the striker, I had to remove the built on washer from the striker and make a bushing to push it 3/8" out. Then I had to lengthen the slots in the striker plate, mainly on the bottom. Once I did that, I was able to get it to strike just right. Works like a dream now.

https://i.imgur.com/GBAUxk1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3m2tM9s.jpg

Svtfreak

09-11-2017, 03:13 PM

After many hours learning on passenger door, driver was a lot easier. I had to drill new holes in the striker plate and make a spacer for the striker also. It's still not latching all the way, but it might be the spacer is a shade too long and the striker head is hitting something. I got tired of messing with it today though so I'll check that out Friday. And I put the top on just to see what it looks like. Cocky!! I may end up leaving the top on more than off!

https://i.imgur.com/t3TNsPW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mqBMkal.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qu7jxeN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/V1A4SwN.jpg

Svtfreak

09-15-2017, 02:48 PM

Got the drivers door dialed in. Had to trim a shade off the spacer I made for the striker. Works wonderfully now. I have a lot more work to do (start installing power windows, door handles, etc) but taking a break from doors. I threw the striker and hinge trim panels in. And moved on to the back. I drew out the lights, to make sure sizes are right. What's your opinion (see photo)? 9" hagan teardrops and 4" ovals where the stock ones would go for then signals. I've already cut those spots out to fill them flush to the back. Waiting on my resin to get here to start patching. I'm thinking I want red tear drops and orange turn signals but unsure how that'll look. I am not a fan of white or clear rear lights, but that's not out of the warrior (with colored led's instead). Or would you to red lens for them all?

Started trimming the trunk opening. Nothing magical there.

https://i.imgur.com/jC1a5dw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b4wsB62.jpg

I sure am glad I don't have the motor and trans in it yet. I've spent quite a bit of time sitting in that hole.
https://i.imgur.com/1YGxqwl.jpg

Svtfreak

09-20-2017, 03:16 PM

Not much done today. Fitting the trunk. No pics there, just sanding fiberglass.

I did make a decision on the lights. I’ll be going with only the teardrops. However, in them I will have 3 strips of led’s. One 9” strip will be brake lights only. I am gonna try (after talking to hagan) to add a second 9” strip in each side. That one will be running lights and turn signals using the high/low toggle input. The brake light strip will be high only. The other option is a 9”, a 6” and a 4”. Each with its own function. 9 is brakes, 6 is park and 4 is signals. I may not know if it’ll work until it’s in and wired but there will still be time to change my mind if it doesn’t. Oh, last option is 9” low is park, high is brake, and figure out how to add a small, maybe 1157 size led, to the bottom of the rear drop for a signal. Any of those 3 options would keep them all in one teardrop.

Svtfreak

09-21-2017, 02:06 PM

Two days off work is nice.

Got trunk all fit. Got latch and cable installed and trunk aluminum in. And release. I feel like I should do something different with it but undecided yet. Maybe a popper and button where the release is? I have time to think about that. I do have to adjust it a little. Had to quit so that’ll be next week. Overall, nothing astonishing yet. The prop rod I’m not fond of so considering options to replace it also.

Set the top on and marked so I can figure out gas cap. I’d like to use a hagan with the box and lid and all. We’ll see when I decide to tackle sorting it out. And had to have some fun while the top was on.

https://i.imgur.com/rMPlD0G.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WIirh1T.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Pthx0zc.jpg

RoadRacer

09-21-2017, 06:18 PM

Come on, when you play, you're supposed to stick your elbow out, Milner style :)

73970

Svtfreak

09-22-2017, 06:31 AM

Lol. You’re right except I was trying to hold myself up!

Svtfreak

09-26-2017, 11:57 AM

erlihemi

09-26-2017, 02:18 PM

[QUOTE=Svtfreak;295541]Today I got the trunk latching right. And moved up front. Decided to get the firewall to body bolt rivnuts in. Found out my screws ain’t long enough. So waiting on those to get body back in right place before working on the hood. Meanwhile, the trunk doesn’t fit quite right. When latched and flush in center, the outside corner are high. (See pic). How do I fix that?

Until my correct bolts get here, I’m just degreasing fiberglass.

Mine is only high on the left, but the curve is also off slightly. For now I Have a quarter turn fastener on each corner to pull it in. Park it in the sun when I get a chance. If it "relaxes" before final paint I'll just glass in the holes. Mine has quarter turn on the hood and side panels anyway so it "matches". The "Jeep" method is to use 2 bear claw latches, one in each corner, with the release centered. After the second weekend out in the sun with a hot engine my hood conformed nicely. Maybe a heater in the trunk would work...;)

Svtfreak

09-26-2017, 02:58 PM

I thought about putting it in the sun upside down with a weight in the middle. That’ll give it more curve than needed (like I had to do with the mk 4 hood), and when it hits the bumpers it’ll flex out to match. Then I’ll make a brace to keep it real close (or just get them from Tim). That’s my plan if no one else comes up with something better. Until then, I’ll work on glass, firewall fit and hood and sides.

Svtfreak

09-26-2017, 03:04 PM

I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that’s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it’s sitting right to fit the hood. I’m really thinking it’ll spend more time with top on than off.

https://i.imgur.com/nq4n1i1.jpg

RoadRacer

09-26-2017, 05:51 PM

Yummy. Looking good!

myjones

09-26-2017, 06:24 PM

Today I got the trunk latching right. And moved up front. Decided to get the firewall to body bolt rivnuts in. Found out my screws ain’t long enough. So waiting on those to get body back in right place before working on the hood. Meanwhile, the trunk doesn’t fit quite right. When latched and flush in center, the outside corner are high. (See pic). How do I fix that?

Until my correct bolts get here, I’m just degreasing fiberglass.

https://i.imgur.com/0M7fQ4m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WINuWAJ.jpg

You might take a look at my Gallery, the folder called trunk hinges IIRC
There is a picture in there of a frame I built to take the stress of the lift supports on the compound action hinges I used.
That frame also allowed me to re-curve the lid (sides) to match the body shape better, but it would work to shape the
bottom edge just as well. It also stiffens the lid across the bottom to improve the latch function by reducing flex.
Some builders have added a similar tube to the body to stiffen it where it was flexing and interfering with the latch function.
HTH
Dale

Svtfreak

09-27-2017, 08:56 AM

Thanks, Dale. I will check that out.

kraftee

09-27-2017, 10:49 AM

SVT,

Before you go hog wild with reshaping the lid, you might first install the trunk seal. I did not reshape my lid, but my body man obviously put a lot of work into the lid and the body to make it all look right. The gaps are good and everything fits pretty darned well right now (with the exception of the front bottom corner of the driver door - working on that.) And a gentle slam latches the trunk securely every time.

Svtfreak

09-27-2017, 01:59 PM

If it was too far in, the seal would push it out into place. The problem is it’s too high. Any seal or bumper is only going to make it worse. I need to get it flush, or even slightly below flush so that the bulb seal or a bumper would bring it up into place.

kraftee

09-28-2017, 06:54 AM

DaveS53

09-28-2017, 07:55 AM

Any fitting should be done with the seal in place. The surface that the seal rests upon may need to be ground down to achive a waterproof seal and a good fit. Some builders have resorted to adding strong bracing to the inner trunk to alter the shape of the trunk so the curve matches the body.

Svtfreak

09-28-2017, 11:12 AM

Problem is, the fiberglass lid is pretty flexy. The seal helps it conform to the shape of the trunk opening somewhat when it latches. I am just advising doing any major fit changes with the bulb seal in place. Mine was very high on the lower corners also - but came DOWN quite a bit when latched over the seal.

That’s an interesting reaction on your corners!

Pint taken on having the seal in place for final fitting. I’ll do that and only add brace if it still acts up (pun fully intended) then.

Svtfreak

09-29-2017, 01:11 PM

I’ve decided to put a sunroof in the hard top. I’m leaning towards removable glass top at the moment though. But first, I have to figure out why the top is way lopsided. I was setting up to fit the hood and the whole car looked low on driver side. I know it wasn’t on the stands and was checked several times. So I got to measuring. Everything on the body was square, straight and level. The top itself was off by a bit. It took me nearly 1/4” of shims to get the passenger side up to look right.

Anyway, fit the front of the hood and worked on back. No pics now.

I had a friend of mine who is a long time body man and car builder come give me advice on making the firewall fit better. I explained my idea and he shot me down. He said it would never stay in place and would chance cracking over time if there is any twist in that area. Even with quality resin, he has concerns. After seeing how much I could move the body around when the firewall wasn’t connected, I decided he is right. It might work for a show car but, although I intend it to be show car quality build, I will be driving it. He suggested just trimming the aluminum to fit even all the way around and let it ride like that. So there we go.

erlihemi

09-29-2017, 07:43 PM

At risk of thread hijak I have to say my roof was diamond shaped. I did stretch it a little, but I cant remember which side was short. The body is not symmetrical and my rear fenders are also inset different. I gave up worrying about it and stand back 20 feet. If it looks ok I run with it. I'm building a driver and never intended to perfectify fiberglass. So who is building a steel 33 anyway?? Where did those end up??
The sun roof will certainly help at the stoplight. I recommend tinted glass and a cover if possible. A kick up at the back is nice. looking forward to seeing that mod.

Svtfreak

10-05-2017, 11:37 AM

Hanks erlihemi. Yes, after I measure and do what I can, visual is the final judgement. Mine hasn’t been too bad wonky, and better than most peoples.

Yes it’ll be a glass, kick up the back or remove style for sure. With a screen in it and I’ll try to form some
Type of sliding cover maybe. That part is in the very early stages of just thinking about it though.

Finished getting the hood to fit today. The nose cone is way long but wanted input before I took to grinding off excess. Everything is placed according to the manual but see how long it is? The radiator is no closer to the front suspension bolts than the manual says, in fact, prolly further away.

I rolled it outside and made sure the slope from the cowl to the grill is right. Once the low spot on the cowl is filled, and the hood slump in the middle is taken out, it should be perfect. Also glasses in the taillight holes. I’ll have to add a layer or two more I think but that’ll be easy.

https://i.imgur.com/vBtkR2v.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KAE6gjR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zrM48tL.jpg

Svtfreak

11-04-2017, 05:56 AM

I ain’t quit or gave up. Working a lot of overtime, I plus many days spent in doctors office (had a heart scare but they thinking it’s a hernia now, heart is A-ok). I don’t think I’ll get much time until after the holidays.

erlihemi

11-04-2017, 05:07 PM

Keep pluggin away! I'm suffering in the shoulder and elbow again which is getting frustrating. Went fishing and shootin and crippled myself. Now I cant' fly fish, shoot a big bore, or wet sand for a couple weeks. Glad to hear you din't have ticker issues. Overtime will pay for the accessories anyway ;)

Svtfreak

11-06-2017, 04:01 PM

Lol very true about overtime. I need inside and outside door handles soon. Tail lights and gas cap also. Plus motor. Hoping to get the power train here around spring time and get it go carting.

Svtfreak

11-30-2017, 08:28 PM

No pics today. But I ground out some of the glass filling my tail light holes. It wasn’t adhered well in some places so I fixed that. Refilled it with some tricks I learned. Then I marked wheee to trim the doors to set the gaps and yanked them off. Drivers door was trimmed wrong at the front and back so I made a dam and filled that in the make up the difference. I’ll have some to add on the outside once I get it cured and turned over then I’ll trim it to fit and set gaps. I have some mistakes to fill around the arms to fix also so just touching up all that stuff. Ill post pics next week maybe when I get back out there again.

Svtfreak

01-15-2018, 03:26 PM

Ok. Life should be getting back to normal. I started this transition by demodding my 5.0 mustang. The 2.9L whipple will be used on the 33. I ordered my coyote with 6r80 package earlier this week, along with a return fuel system. 4-8 weeks delivery!

https://i.imgur.com/RVy5n3I.jpg

Svtfreak

01-24-2018, 02:16 PM

Ok, I think life is settled and can get back on the hot rod! Today, I smoothed the glass I filled taillights with and prepped it for body filler. One more hole I want to glass in but I’ll do next time i mix some up. Also settle gaps on passenger door and reinstalled it. Drivers door I have some material roads and finish getting it ready. I started working on the hood hinge and latch but didn’t finish so I’ll put pics of that later.

https://i.imgur.com/QBd4nxs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dQ1DWIZ.jpg

BigB

01-25-2018, 11:56 AM

Welcome to the whip family! Can't wait to see your progress.

Svtfreak

01-25-2018, 09:28 PM

Hood hinges and latch today. I must say. We always swapped from a prop rod to shocks on the mustangs. First time I ever saw a hood that needs both! Lol. Definitely an, umm, interesting solution for a neat final operation. Still gotta put the pin receivers in but I gotta get a new hole saw. I might go with something prettier for final build though.

https://i.imgur.com/pP9ulxu.jpg

Svtfreak

02-07-2018, 03:14 PM

Today just cleaning up some things. Drilled the holes for the top in the back. I put some large washers in when I put the rivnuts so it’ll hold better for my liking. I’ll glass them up a little more when I take the body off and flip it. Filled a little more on the door front and back since I took too much off when I trimmed it lol. Also trimmed the hood so it clears to open. But I hate the way it fits at the corners now at the grill. See photo. I’ll have to figure out some way to fill that hold. Maybe fill it with the side panel (or trim panel if I decide to ditch the sides for good)

Tomorrow morning, I go pick up the motor/trans/eve/harness.

https://i.imgur.com/iL6i4fm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZwmGGrG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kXCAMvV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LVoFbnl.jpg

Svtfreak

02-08-2018, 05:36 PM

Picked up the motor/trans and controls today from freight yard. (No room on my street to turn a truck around and no way to unload it anyway). The trans isn’t in the pic, it’s in the back of the truck. Gonna be a fun fit to get this coyote and the 6R80 in this thing. Better get my shoehorn and welder ready lol.

https://i.imgur.com/okATegE.jpg

Svtfreak

02-17-2018, 05:12 PM

Y’all know I picked up the motor and trans pack about 2 weeks ago. Then my wife got the flu. Then I got a sinus infection. Had to work some overtime. Then the flu got me. Then I got another sinus infection lol. So today I finally managed to get it unloaded. The 6R80 is huge but not as much bigger than the 4R70 as I thought it would be. The bell housing size is about same but the body is wider. That’ll make fitment easier than I was expecting. I’m hopeful now. But I have a sawzall, cut off wheel and a welder!

Hopefully I won’t have to work overtime this week and can get the top on it and then take the front off and start getting it in. I want the top and the front back on by March 24th for my church yearly car show. I’ll bring both it and the mk4.

Pic just for documentation.

https://i.imgur.com/2fNA49L.jpg

Svtfreak

02-22-2018, 06:39 PM

Got the hard top mounted up today. I think I am going to add two more studs across the front. I also think I’m going to cut out and fill the rivnuts behind with some glass and epoxy to make it more sturdy. I’ll do that later on.

Pulled it outside for some pics and a quick clean up. Tired of messing with body. I’ve only had 24 hours of work since mid September. Hopefully life will slow down and let me get more time soon. I’m in no hurry but it’ll take forever this way.

Some progress pics just since I couldn’t help myself. Still have to set all body gaps and finish fitting but waiting until all weight on the car to do that. After I get the motor and trans in, and maybe running, I’ll get back and finish fitting all the parts to final place.

https://i.imgur.com/X6vVw6B.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aYrA8A2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BOv3LNO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Rs0Ab4h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PLUGU7V.jpg

RoadRacer

02-22-2018, 08:14 PM

Can't wait until mine looks like that! Perhaps their new financing will help :)

TxMike64

02-23-2018, 10:57 AM

81496
(stole a screen cap)

I don't know why I never noticed this on other builds, but do the trans cooler lines always stick out like this? Or are those condenser lines?

CVOBill

02-23-2018, 11:27 AM

Those are the a/c condenser lines.

bellingson

02-23-2018, 02:26 PM

i have a similar slight drop on the drivers side, but i left it alone as it didn't create an issue with the latch and it worked better with the hard top gasket. As the door closes it moves up and seals the gasket. On the passenger side my door was good but i ruined the gasket soon after i put the hard top on because it was too tight vertically. I actually have pondered reversing the inner door frames and hinging at the front, but, not on this project. Maybe the mkiihr will have better doors. Leave room for suicide safety latches while your in door mode also...

mkII??

Svtfreak

02-24-2018, 05:44 AM

Those are the a/c condenser lines.

Yep. The trans cooler is in the radiator but doesn’t have lines on it. Just thread-o-let’s.

mkII??. No sir. Hot rod.

TDSapp

02-26-2018, 12:09 PM

That looks cool... I wish I could roll mine out of the garage but I would never get it back in. We have a very steep driveway and we would not be able to push the car back up into the garage.

I like the shot with all the doors open and the hood and trunk up. Made me think of one of the cartoon cars trying to scare a bigger car away.

Looks good though.

Svtfreak

02-27-2018, 01:48 PM

TDSapp

02-27-2018, 02:40 PM

Lol, thanks tim!

My driveway has a slope also. But I can push it up solo at this weight. It’s even easier if I push on the top of the tire (think leverage, 2x the distance to push but half the force to make car move). I did put my chock and not let it get out of control.

Oh thats funny... Seeing your outdoor photos and you think that is a slope.

With my challenger in the driveway the car is only about 2 or 3 feet from the alley. I am 5'8" and when I stand in the alley the garage floor is around my chin in height.

Svtfreak

02-28-2018, 12:31 AM

Tim, that’s not a slope! Sounds like you built on a hill and just paved the hillside!

TDSapp

02-28-2018, 10:09 AM

Tim, that’s not a slope! Sounds like you built on a hill and just paved the hillside!

Yep... My wife told me that we were going to buy a home on a hill and we were not going to be the low spot. Something about her previous house being the draining area and getting 3' of water up the side of her house one time during a storm. :-)

So we are on a hill and besides having a steep drive way my garage is 3' lower than the rest of the house. I tell people that since it is partially underground that I really do have a Man Cave. I took a picture for y'all after I got home from work yesterday. I am standing in the middle of the alley behind our house.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/20180227_160928.jpg

Xander

02-28-2018, 04:29 PM

Thanks for this thread. It helps guys like me in the planning stage to see what we are really in for!

Looks great so far. I'm sure it feels good just to roll it out of the garage with most of the body assembled.

X...

Svtfreak

03-03-2018, 01:56 PM

No problem, X. It does feel good to see it moved on its own wheels. Wasn’t the first time I did it but it was the first time with everything actually affixed.

Got the top fixed down final today. I had added a couple more studs to the front to bring total to 5. And I (with my baby girls help) got the trans bolted up to the motor. I’ve never fooled with a coyote out of the car or a 6r80 so I wasn’t sure where or how to reach the studs to bolt the converter up. After getting one through the starter hole, and knowing the others wouldn’t work there (too tight once pulled up), my 6 year old girl figured out how to reach them through the hole on the other side of motor. Lol. Proud daddy moment there.

Pics for funs sake
https://i.imgur.com/QP0SbLI.jpg

My two helpers getting in the areas easier than I can!
https://i.imgur.com/7Uxv4BP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7KtikkC.jpg

erlihemi

03-03-2018, 06:42 PM

That's precious man. Kudos to getting the kids some hands on experience.

coolair247

03-06-2018, 09:58 PM

Looks like your build is going well. I expect my complete kit delivery the week of March 19th. I was glad that I found your build thread, I have been searching for a build where the body, doors and top were installed and fitted on a rolling chassis basically before the car was built. That is the way I wanted to approach my build but after reading many posts I was not sure if that was possible. Are you going to do all body work with body on chassiss then remove for painting? Seems to me to make since, less masking and clean up on a completed car. I don't plan on doing my own body work( zero experience) unless I can have someone show me the ropes.

wrp

03-06-2018, 10:00 PM

Fabulous help you have. Coolair, I turned to outside help for my body work as well.

Svtfreak

03-08-2018, 08:14 AM

Coolair,

I have the body just working. I have to set gaps and get everything perfect still but i want all weight on the suspension to make sure everything will be sitting in it’s final place. After I get it running, probably, i will get back on the body. Set the final gaps, get everything lined up just right, grind the remaining part lines, and so any major filling. Once it’s ready for primer, I’ll remove everything and prime, block and Wet sand and get it slick and paint it off the car. That will be done during my final step once it’s completely apart and I’m finishing everything’s

Svtfreak

03-08-2018, 03:58 PM

The motor and trans is in!!! And the 6R80 fits!

Right now, it’s resting on the trans Pan flange on FFR trans mounts and has 2* of angle. I will have to cut the mounts off the frame and build my own but that looks like it won’t be hard to accomplish at all. Easier than I was expecting. Also made up the steering correctly, installed headers and starter while playing around. When I do build the trans crossmember and mount, I’ll post good pics of that part for future reference should anyone else decide to attempt.

Oh. Coyote lift points ain’t gonna work. I got it in using my homemade plates but I won’t be able to get the bolts out. Do you guys use lift brackets that bolt to the exhaust manifold bolts? And what y’all doing for header bolts anyway?

https://i.imgur.com/FPDw6QA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UspGzy8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kMbtJia.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1Z8An9d.jpg

Svtfreak

03-13-2018, 02:59 PM

Found out today that the computer that comes with the Ford performance crate motor/trans package is not the same case as the ones used if pulled from a donor. So, I had to make a mount. I used the FFR mount that usually goes on the oil pan studs, and ran it across the frame 1” x brace tubes. Tapped the tubes to mount it. The. Drilled and tapped for the computer. I had to shift it pretty good to passenger side to clear the steering motor and help keep the harness from getting into the main pulley. Worked out great. Also mounted the compressor and started working on a trans mount (but will not post photos of that until I get it finished and ensure it works, probably a couple weeks.

Won’t be much for updates. My next days off i have to prep both cars for a car show, then once home, I’m taking the body off and have to pull the motor and trans to fix a couple items. While it’s out and i have room, I will cut the FFR trans mounts off the frame then finish the 6R80 mount once I get it all back together. Then I’ll start working on wiring and towards getting it to life. It’ll be easier with body off and I have some things I wanna do to the body while it’s off.

https://i.imgur.com/vy1InTl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wwEFMQ0.jpg

Svtfreak

03-22-2018, 12:34 PM

Prototype 6R80 trans mount. When I pull the motor out (hopefully next week), I will cut off the FFR trans mounts from the frame. Then I’ll set motor back in, get the angle right and trim the long edge of the crossmember, leaving some as a gusset.

After I see how it goes in again, I may weld the crossbmember in then cut out the center and leave tabs on the frame. Then make another plate that is a removable crossmember. I don’t think it’ll be necessary though, since the mount is on the back of the trans case instead of bottom. The flange will have to be up and above the crossmember when going in before it reaches it anyway. Once I’m sure of that, I’ll decide weather to make the crossmember removable or not. Worst case, I cut it out later, remake it to mount from the bottom and use spacers to her back up to right angle.

This is the back
https://i.imgur.com/6cz8LnO.jpg

Front. The two empty holes is where it bolts to the trans. The line is just a reference. I’ll trim off even with bottom of frame tubing once I know exactly wheee it has to go to get angle correct.
https://i.imgur.com/gvrksWo.jpg

Svtfreak

03-24-2018, 05:12 PM

Brought it to a car show today. She won best under construction. Was kinda unfair as I think it was the only true under construction lol. The mk4 won best 1950-1980, which I was flattered by. There was some nice cars including a very trick, very custom 68 Camaro that won best in show.

Svtfreak

03-26-2018, 04:29 PM

Blew it apart partially today. Body off, motor and trans out. Have to put starter index plate in, correct trans bolts and put a couple quarts of fluid in the converter. Cut the factory trans mounts off the frame and then reinstall the motor tomorrow probably. Then I’ll start wiring and mechanical stuff towards running it. The body won’t go back on for awhile.

https://i.imgur.com/uxPalEr.jpg

Svtfreak

03-27-2018, 02:23 PM

Got up today and got the starter index plate in, filled the converter, bolted all that back up. Then started in the trans mount. Cut the FFR brackets off the frame using sawzall and cut off wheels. Ground it smooth. Back in with the motor and trans. Then installed the new trans mount I made. Everything lined up perfectly down the center. Welded in the mount best I could. I’m going to have to clean up some welds once trans is out of the way for paint. Got me a perfect 3* angle on the motor checking at a couple diff places. I may add a gusset on the mount towards the back where it doesn’t touch the frame anywhere to add a little strength to it.

Turning big metal into shavings.
https://i.imgur.com/rMtvut1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qbuC0N1.jpg

Motor back in, supporting and setting angle. Bolted bracket on trans then adding mount and crossmember to that
https://i.imgur.com/SDwjIWh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/p1iIIeZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WTbH3k7.jpg

Everything in place, angles and alignment triple checked and started welding. Can’t really see some welds. Don’t criticize to bad. I’m not a great welder in tight spots. This will fix when trans out again. You can see my centerline marks in frame bottom in last pic.
https://i.imgur.com/0gmOCC8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7suSir4.jpg

Svtfreak

04-04-2018, 03:44 PM

Worked on the ac and heater lines inside the car today, since I had some underage help. Had to do something that isn’t much thought lol.

Decided to do it next to the riser like FFR. About the best option to keep the hoses easily hideable inside.
https://i.imgur.com/hVuOhuj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NoJHw85.jpg

Completed hoses. Gonna clean up the trimmed parts of ac inlet box when totally apart for finishing
https://i.imgur.com/NoJHw85.jpg

Had the cutest little helper today. She likes using the drill
https://i.imgur.com/UsAUot4.jpg

The kids seem to lose interest when there’s is work and not much visible progress. They like to see big parts come together. So when she gave up and went to blow bubbles and chase lizards, I started on the second part of the harness for the coyote. The motor harness came installed. After a couple false starts, I ran it down the right side of the oil pan to the ecu. The black box is under the ac unit. The harness to the CEL, gas pedal, etc will go across to that area. And I have to decide how to get the harness into the dash area, weather through the firewall or trans tunnel will work best. That’ll be next weeks work.
https://i.imgur.com/X2fbUy3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Os5nX6L.jpg

I’ve got some learning to do. I thought the ecu had an input from the shifter (comes with kit). But it doesn’t. The shifter has a plug that has inputs to control when you can put it in gear, and lights, but the ecu doesn’t need anything from it. It must get its gear info from the big plug on the trans. That means that I don’t really have to use the ford shifter. I was playing with ideas how to make it fit and match, being its sort of big and bulky, but now I don’t think that is necessary. I’d much rather use a lokar floor mount or something if the sort if I can make it work. I may need to call the tech line and ask a few questions to see what my options are.

HVACMAN

04-05-2018, 03:37 PM

Svtfreak

04-05-2018, 07:20 PM

Talk to Travis Johnson at Lokar. He is extremely helpful. travisj@lokar.com

Thanks! I’ll email him now.

Svtfreak

04-10-2018, 02:11 PM

So, today, I finally succumbed to the fact that I had to move the gas tank filler to accomplish what I want. I was going to run the hose custom down and around from the deck above the trunk but knew in my heart that wasn’t right. It needed to move. I was worried about welding it and I want to do this myself. So, I cut out the filler, drilled a new hole for it and fit a filler plate for the old spot. Now, I’m a long way from a good welder. But once I got my heat right, it did well. I had to fill a couple pinholes after these pics where taken, but you get the idea. I checked it with water (twice). No leaks! Well, on my weld anyway. The level sender is leaking. I took it apart, cleaned it up, and put back in tighter and it still leaks. Not even trying to seal. Any advice on that before I fuel-safe sealastic it in place?

https://i.imgur.com/EVMgZIP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WGWvyFy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4MqVtzw.jpg

Svtfreak

04-10-2018, 02:12 PM

Talk to Travis Johnson at Lokar. He is extremely helpful. travisj@lokar.com

Travis got me hooked up. They do make a shifter for the 6R80. I’ll be using it. Now, my goal is to make the sport/manual mode on it work. At least try to make the paddle shifters work and I’ll use the switches in the shifter instead.

Svtfreak

04-13-2018, 02:08 PM

6R80 content!

I put in the headers and first sections today. Glad I did before I started the trans tunnel. The driver side 02 sensor plugged right in. Plenty wire. The passenger side didn’t work. The plug for the 02 sensor comes out of the harness about 3/4 of the way down the transmission. The 02 plug falls right about there the starter is after i drilled a hole in the motor mount for the plastic holder to make it neat. So, I dissected the harness and pulled the 02 sensor wires up. I was able to slit the foil cover and unfold the fiber insulation. Once I pulled enough that I could double it back and teach the 02 sensor plug, I tucked all the fiber back in and taped it back up to reseal the harness. I made up where they come out now. I’m out of small split loom so I wrapped them with tape for now. I’ll loom it and tape it to make it look factory eventually. Pics for fun and better than I can describe.

https://i.imgur.com/sA86yX2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dZ5Uj41.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tm1oYvy.jpg
Finished product inside the car
https://i.imgur.com/UETul1i.jpg
Almost finished product at starter. Loom and a good place to attach it and it’ll look wonderful and hidden
https://i.imgur.com/oJKGRHK.jpg

Svtfreak

04-18-2018, 02:25 PM

Mounted the regulator today. I had to space it off a touch. Im making a billet block to mount it on. Ran like to rails. Mounted the tank back in after some cleaning and ran the tank vent to underneath. I’ll add a carbon canister later when I find one I like.

https://i.imgur.com/GxY8GQ0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nF0OE7I.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u3ZTgZK.jpg

TheBabyBadger

04-18-2018, 03:36 PM

OMG - Your brake set up is clean AF! I've been reduced to pop culture acronyms! WOW! Looks AMAZING so far!

Svtfreak

04-24-2018, 10:15 AM

Haha. Thanks badger.

Hanging exhaust yesterday and today. Stopped at mufflers. Didn’t get the rear exhaust as I wasn’t sure it would work but it might. They have to share real estate with the intercooler reservoir and fluid cooler. But if I move the cooler to behind the axle (if it’ll fit there with fans) then the FFR may work.

https://i.imgur.com/stuUk77.jpg

Svtfreak

04-26-2018, 08:52 AM

I got the trans tunnel in. It actually fits over the 6R80 easily. Making this transmission fit has been much easier than I expected it to be. Will be trying foot room later today. I also ran the main engine harness to the relay box through the top left of the tunnel.
https://i.imgur.com/IYZ0YYk.jpg

I did take the time to Install rivnuts in the front face of the tunnel and use the same bolts I used for the firewall to attach it. Makes it a bit of an order puzzle to assemble but it sure looks cleaner than rivets from the inside and will make sure it stays sealed.
https://i.imgur.com/J3FEkdo.jpg

Svtfreak

04-26-2018, 01:02 PM

Highly modded the coyote has pedal. Cut off a lot of the excess. Made a bracket to mount the bottom. Used one of ffrs for the top. It’s ok but I’m not crazy about it. After I got it mounted, it was too long and no way to move it up. So I hacked up the FFR pedal and used it like they say. I’m still not crazy about it’s looks now. It’s function is fine but looks is just, well, hermaphroditish. Excuse pics, I still have to twist it slightly to face the right way. But you can see the brackets I made.
https://i.imgur.com/slGekz5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S8Pggsv.jpg

RoadRacer

04-26-2018, 03:58 PM

It’s function is fine but looks is just, well, hermaphroditish.

yeah, ewww. I can see why you're not happy..

Svtfreak

04-26-2018, 04:54 PM

yeah, ewww. I can see why you're not happy..

Lokar makes a coyote pedal but only works with 11-14. If I can’t use that as an option, I’m thinking i can fill the drop from the big plastic to the narrow metal with some shaped epoxy. That would make it look more natural instead of an afterthought. It’s going to be important as the interior will be tan. Worst case, I paint it tan and it’ll blend in. I’ve got time to figure out a fix.

Svtfreak

05-14-2018, 01:42 PM

Taking a little break on the 33 while i get my mk4 sorted out. Still have weird oil pressure issues after a new pump, and possibly super fine metal flake in the oil. Will be back on the 33 after I figure out what’s up and either fix it or get a new motor on the way.

Arrowhead

05-15-2018, 01:00 PM

The level sender is leaking. I took it apart, cleaned it up, and put back in tighter and it still leaks. Not even trying to seal. Any advice on that before I fuel-safe sealastic it in place?

Make sure there is no metal to metal contact under the sender. You may have to bend the tabs down so the sending units rests on the o ring fully

Svtfreak

06-22-2018, 01:40 PM

Arrow, I’ll be tackling that next week I think. Need to resolve that soon as I’m getting close to ready to try it out. Time wise. If I can get that time lol.

Summer is here and the wife works limited hours and no care at her job anymore. So I have the kids some days and have less time to myself to work on it. At 45 minutes a week, it’s gonna take awhile to get the 1200 or so hours I’m guessing it’s gonna take lol!

Put the top on and ran the harness through it (instead of firewall to keep the wires all hidden). Excuse the mess of electrical parts and tools. Now to build a temp gauge panel, and tie the coyote harness into electrical and get the bump to start and fuel controls working. Won’t be long, hopefully, and we’ll be making some noise.

https://i.imgur.com/SPIjmr3.jpg

Svtfreak

06-28-2018, 01:58 PM

Finished up my temporary gauge pod for go cart. When the body goes back on, it’ll get Dakota digital, either vhx or hdx all in one elliptical. Haven’t decided if I want the digital readout in the center yet or not. On one hand, it would fit the late model hi tech style but it would clutter up the smooth sleek that in seeking in the end. Opinions?

I also ran my battery + and -, ran the rear harness to everywhere but the fuel sender. Need a grommet for that. Installed the oil pressure sender for temp gauges. Started to install the water temp but I don’t like the 2 bushing method. Gets the sender a ways out of the flow, if you ask me. So I ordered the right 3/4-1/8” pipe bushing to use. I may put a battery in it soon and start testing circuits.

Now I have to start figuring out how and where to cut in the coyote harness. It’s starter lead, fan control and whatnot will have to tap into the harness aomewheee. I don’t wanna run full wires. Also need to bring senders into dash and figure out where to mount the electric steering control and wire that up.

Pic of my silly temp gauges lol.

https://i.imgur.com/aM3GQtV.jpg

Svtfreak

08-03-2018, 12:57 PM

I am finally starting to get some shop time! School starts next week and i should get my days off again. I was able to get out there today and extend the power steering wires.

I cut each wire on the control plug and used a trailer four wire bundle. I subbed the yellow for red. By offsetting the cuts and spices, it keeps the finished product thinner and cleaner with less bulk at the one spot. This is in the electric motor end.
https://i.imgur.com/WfqbtxU.jpg

Then I soldered and shrink wrapped each joint
https://i.imgur.com/9KK3TwZ.jpg[img]

Then I shrink wrapped over all joints to keep it tight and support the joints. And for even more protection.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/ZjwhLy0.jpg

Then did the power and ground side the same way using 14 gauge wire (same as what’s on the motor)
https://i.imgur.com/Yv6BozY.jpg

Then i ran the wires along with the sending unit harness into the car. For final assembly, I will combine them into one loom but for now, it works better to keep separate for disassembly for paint and finish.

Did the same thing to the other end of both at the control box on left side of under dash area.

https://i.imgur.com/1NnKCeL.jpg

Boom. Easy peasy extending harness to the control box in a better place to withstand elements. Since the car will be driven, I have to plan on the possibility of rain and wet and this seemed the best course of action for me.

Svtfreak

08-10-2018, 07:18 AM

I think I got more done yesterday than the entire summer. Hooked up ignition for the coyote controls pack (blue to start position of switch, pulled the RF blues off as they won’t be used, green with the RF orange on ignition switch, red to the two reds with RF on switch, ground to ground). Hooked up the fuel pump relay out from the controls pack to the fuel pump. But I have to redo that. I want it to go through the inertia switch and kick the relay in the RF instead. I’ll do that next week. Hooked up fan and ran main power to the controls pack black box. I put the fuse for it near the battery. All in all, I think the wiring is done (save for the fuel pump change).

Pic or two but I’ll put more up next update. Not much to see other than more and more wires.

My crimp and heat shrink job
https://i.imgur.com/F5bOz2e.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jWhLost.jpg

Svtfreak

08-14-2018, 02:33 PM

Today I fixed the fuel pump supply wiring. Using the ford controls pack to trip the relay in the Ron Francis panel. That will also supply the power to the pump. This allows the inertia switch to still work. The output for the pump is the unshrinkwrapped connection in this photo. The normal supply, I soldered a wire in to supply something else. Probably the power steering unit. The RF fan relay and supply also won’t be used (as the controls pack will control the fan) so it will supply probably my power windows.

https://i.imgur.com/y4uh77A.jpg

Also did the cooling system today. I don’t like it. The lower is ok, not great. The upper and it’s curly que is terrible. I think I’ll be able to file off the locator peg on the coyote end and then rotate the ford connector up so it’s a short straight shot from the outlet to the radiator. That’s for another day though. Working towards starting it up at the moment. Buttoned up a few vac connections. Need a cap or two and a battery, and a coolant expansion tank (gotta figure out where to put it) and I think I’m ready!
https://i.imgur.com/rc1UmuP.jpg

Svtfreak

08-17-2018, 04:56 PM

Lots of little stuff done today. Tried to mount a G75 battery. Didn’t work. Not even close. Just can’t get it in there and mr Tcollins way won’t work for me with the 3 link brace down there. So I picked up the odyssey and I’ll give it a shot. Everyone who has one says it does fine. And they will warranty it for 3 years.
https://i.imgur.com/yeIOIgt.jpg

Next on the list was to move the coolant sensor. I pulled it and repluggrd the spot FFR says to put it. My filter relocation bracket will put the oil pressure sensor in the way of using this spot. So, I used the small bleed in the motor outlet port and drilled and tapped it. A note about that spot. From the factory, that place is the high point of the system and bleeds back to the expansion tank. By changing ours to come off radiator, this spot gets plugged. And since there is a low enough place to allow a lute to form, it’s wuite common for these to vapor lock. This bleed almost has to be opened when filling and during first heat up to allow the air to purge and coolant to circulate correctly. I filled it today and let it purge and will unscrew it a couple times before and during first heat up.

Knocked it out from the back side with a pinch (it’s just a press fit in) and drilled and tapped (21/64” and 1/8 pipe threads).
https://i.imgur.com/CfBlNSr.jpg

Back in place with sensor loosely in and wire ran (had to extend it). I’ll add the wire to the harness loom on final assembly.
https://i.imgur.com/q3mxVbd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6UQarfs.jpg

Next, I filed the square locating peg off the upper radiator hose connection so I could spin it around and make the upper look better. The peg goes into the wire receiving hole so I had to trim that out also since where I wanted it lined up with where the wire would fall. No sealing happens here, it seals on the smooth part that sticks out (the left side in pic). Then cut and reassembled hose. Ahh yes. Much better. Filled the systems with 50/50 (got 3.5 gallons in so far) and letting it sit.
https://i.imgur.com/YDWOxrS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ilbdadu.jpg

No pic as it’s just there but temporarily mounted the FFR expansion tank with zip ties lol. I have an idea to tie that into the blower intercooler system I may try so I can do away with the expansion tank but That’s a ways off yet. If I can come up with a place for it, I’ll keep it. It won’t even close to fit by radiator like FFR says and sends a bracket for and I’m trying to keep the firewall clean.

So, hopefully Wednesday, I’ll fix the gas level sender seal issue, put some fuel in it, hook up the battery, prime and set fuel pressure and see if she’ll start. I have the trans cooler lines looped back to each other for now, and will need to fill it, so I may only run it for a minute, but I’m excited. After I get some trans fluid so I can fill that, I’ll run i and let it warm up to finalize coolant fill and check fan operation via the pcm.

Svtfreak

08-24-2018, 07:14 AM

ITS ALIVE!!!

Hooked up battery and hit key and gauges came to life. Didn’t blow every fuse and coyote black box did it’s clicking. Fuel pump even ran.

Hopefully it’ll run in an hour or so.

https://i.imgur.com/Tuyfzfl.jpg

Svtfreak

08-24-2018, 08:46 AM

These coyotes won’t start with the crank position sensor unplugged lol! But she started and ran! Yay!

TDSapp

08-24-2018, 10:34 AM

These coyotes won’t start with the crank position sensor unplugged lol! But she started and ran! Yay!

It did not happen without video!:D

CVOBill

08-24-2018, 10:43 AM

Congrats! But I agree with Tim.....video or it didn't happen. :p

Svtfreak

08-24-2018, 11:11 AM

See if this works.

https://i.imgur.com/oygWwlZ.mp4

If that doesn’t work, try this

https://youtu.be/qdQggS8Dsw8

Not sure why the video doesn’t show the start. I was recording. I thought. Excuse the rattle from all the stuff laying on floor pans.

TDSapp

08-24-2018, 12:52 PM

OK, it happened. Nice sounding motor too...

Svtfreak

08-24-2018, 04:05 PM

Thanks! Lol. Sounds better when something rattling on the floor pan fell off. Guess i should pick up a bit lol.
Throttle response at the end after the idle settled down was pretty impressive, I thought.

Svtfreak

09-10-2018, 12:57 PM

As some of you know, when running a coyote with power steering, the oil filter won’t fit. Not even the small ac delco one. I chose an MMR relocation kit. It came with everything except a 1/4” and an 1/8” pipe plug. You can even move your oil pressure sender to the filter housing if you want to. The housing on the motor only has a single 1/4” pipe spot for a sender. I chose to leave it there, downstream of the filter and hoses. Overall, it’s a very good setup. Has the nylon covered braided hoses and good fittings. Only downside is if you are using braided stainless, it won’t match. But there are other options then.

Spent today making the hoses up, and mounting the filter. I made a steel backplate so that just the firewall aluminum isn’t the only thing holding the filter. Provably overkill but a piece of mind for me. It is welded to the angled brace behind the firewall and the bolts thread straight into it. Hose routing will be cleaned up and finalized later, after everything I need is mounted.
https://i.imgur.com/8kIKr1i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IYgwwil.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tDgPP2x.jpg

In other news, I got the fuel leak around the sender fixed. Had to tamp down the high part so it could seal right. So now it runs on its own gas tank supply. Also starting to look at how I’ll fill the trans. I think I’m going to cut an access hole in the tunnel and just glass it up after. I shouldn’t have to fill it again and future changes I’ll do on a lift.

All i need now is a driveshaft, shifter (its ordered), put my steering back together, and fill and energize the brake system and I think I’m ready for a go cart ride!

wrp

09-11-2018, 10:48 PM

Svtfreak

09-12-2018, 06:09 AM

Stop immediately!!!!! The yellow arrow in your photo is pointing at the universal steering joint lock nut and screw. These are incorrect. When you turn your wheel to the left the nut and screw will lever against the collar on the firewall. The result will be to strip your D shaft from the wheel to the firewall completely apart from the lower shaft. IN other words your steering assembly will separate. Ask me how I know? There is a shorter set screw in the package (photo 2 and 3) that fits flush with the universal joint lip and you do not use the locking nut. Please don't be offended.

930519305393052

I will certainly check this out and fix it! Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I hopefully would have caught it (I am reassembling my steering) this week, but not for certain. Not offended at all! This is one reason I am here. My wife and kids will be riding in this thing, and I’ll take any pointers! Thanks, WRP!

wrp

09-12-2018, 07:55 AM

Page 153 in the 2d Manual. I didn't catch mine until I left the road at 60 MPH. It's not something that jumps out at you in the manual. I recommend everyone reading this thread go out and check theirs. Also note, it specifies the use of locktite, presumably red, on that particular set screw. Personally, I dimpled my D Shaft end so the set screw actually inserts into the dimple for added protection.

HVACMAN

09-12-2018, 09:56 AM

Stop immediately!!!!! The yellow arrow in your photo is pointing at the universal steering joint lock nut and screw. These are incorrect. When you turn your wheel to the left the nut and screw will lever against the collar on the firewall. The result will be to strip your D shaft from the wheel to the firewall completely apart from the lower shaft. IN other words your steering assembly will separate. Ask me how I know? There is a shorter set screw in the package (photo 2 and 3) that fits flush with the universal joint lip and you do not use the locking nut. Please don't be offended.

930519305393052

I think the later kits are different than yours Bill. If you will notice in SVTfreak's picture the later kits have an extra spacer, with two short set screws, that moves the joint out and away from the bearing. I just reassembled mine this past weekend and have no binding when cycled from lock to lock.

wrp

09-12-2018, 10:21 AM

Andy,

Respectfully disagree. Photo number 1 is his photo of the current installation on his car (see post 131). Photos 2 and 3, include the one with the extra spacer are from my car. If you look closely at the 3rd photo you can see the fouling marks on the collar where the extended set screw and locking nut pressed against the collar. My reference to page 153 of the Manual_2d shows what it should look like. The 2d Manual is much more current than my manual or kit (dated 2015). Anyone that sets their steering assembly up as in picture 1 is in danger.

The additional spacer shown in Photo 3 is due to the thinness of my polished firewall as compare to the firewall that comes with the kit.

Svtfreak

09-12-2018, 12:58 PM

I’m going to check this out either Friday or Wednesday (if I get back from going drop off parts to get driveshaft made early enough Friday, it’s a short day for work. The wife wants a gumbo) and post results. I know I had a stiff spot in steering but I thought it was binding down low, not here.

When I do the real final assembly after paint and finish is done, it’s going to get dimples drilled and red loctite in all set screws. For now, I’m not doing anything so i can get it apart. It won’t see amy real speed or miles yet.

wrp

09-12-2018, 02:09 PM

The kits may have changed since 2015 but the picture shown in post 131 are exactly like my kit. I seriously recommend you not drive the car at all until you have fixed this. I am sorry it has to seem confusing but the results of a setup like you have are devastating.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2KKtEen1Ko

HVACMAN

09-15-2018, 01:43 PM

Svtfreak

09-15-2018, 02:21 PM

Man, that had to have been a hairy ride!

I was in the shop earlier sealing up my rear end and filling it and didn’t even think to check mine. I’ll check it out Wednesday when I reassemble the steering.

The 6R80 transmission doesn’t use a slip yoke in the output. It has a flange. FFR doesn’t support this trans yet. So, after calling several online driveshaft shops as gasping at the price, I called my usual dude. He can make the driveshaft with the splined yoke in it, balanced and ready to bolt in for a much more reasonable cost. Still quite a bit more than the normal style shafts lol. So, I brought him the two flanges I have (one for each end) and the one new u joint I sourced from the FFR driveshaft. They have to order the parts for the slip yoke but said it should be ready by middle of next week. Another hurdle sorted and hopefully solved. I think that was the last “must have” hurdle, and everything else is “this’ll make it real cool” hurdles to make this trans work.

wrp

09-15-2018, 09:32 PM

Thanks Andy, I see you have an extra spacer, I would still be uncomfortable with that set screw and locking nut the way you have it but if your instructions say that is okay then I will relent. just be careful guys. I will still not crank my car unless I have gone over every inch of the steering shaft. It has really taken a lot of enjoyment out of driving it.

Svtfreak

09-19-2018, 10:56 AM

Picked up and installed the driveshaft. It’s 38 1/8” installed but the slip joint allows for the expansion and collapsing for movement. A grease fitting for the slip yoke fell perfectly accessible from the bottom. I did have to drop the rear end to get it in though.
https://i.imgur.com/CVBuVgo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1tAyrPs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AiiddnN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2sJyxH0.jpg

Svtfreak

09-19-2018, 11:03 AM

@wrp and @hvacman:

Here is a pic of my jam but to bearing clearance. Plenty plenty room. WRP, I very much appreciate you pointing it out, as you learned the hard way. Thanks for looking out for others (me) and paying that close attention to my thread!
93801

Svtfreak

09-19-2018, 03:05 PM

No photos, cause, let’s face it, filling and bleeding brakes ain’t no fun lol. Got them full to each corner, wired up the pump to the efi trigger wire from the RF harness (not used with coyote) and tied the power wire in at the frpp black box. Powered it up and nothing. After calling ABS, they think the pump is bad (and he sounded like wasn’t common, I hope it isn’t!). So they have a new pump on the way. I have fluid to the pump suction, but can’t get even a drop at the outlet. So they took care of me easily.

Also got my steering all back together. Going to power that up tomorrow I hope. Maybe get more pics of details.

Svtfreak

09-20-2018, 01:45 PM

Well, I decided today that I need a place to grab battery +12 from. So I ran a line from the FRPP black box to the stud that the coyote kit comes with. I mounted it near the column near inertia switch. Now I have a place for my steering, brakes, heater/ac, windows and other incidentals that need power (amplifier will come off battery as it will be closer to it). Then I wired up my horns. Did some cleaning up of unused wires and shrink wrapped and got those bundled up. When I take apart for paint, I’ll lose all those wires and tuck my added wires into the harness. Also started wiring up my heater/ac but stopped as id rather have the brake pump in before I start trying to fit more stuff. Verified all indicator lights worked so that when I wire into the Dakota digital box, since body will be on, I hopefully won’t have to add anything. Cleaned up hanging wires (once everything functions, I’ll cut out and remove stuff like that, for now it’s getting wound up and tied away) working towards getting ready to go cart around a bit. Just need a brake booster pump and shifter!

https://i.imgur.com/I8TeQoW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HASDprB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j9b4Hvi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rhHt9kM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0CfVt9C.jpg

HVACMAN

09-20-2018, 02:03 PM

Svtfreak

09-28-2018, 03:26 PM

Extended the wires and mounted my floor mounted brights switch today. Made a bracket to hold it at a little angle and mount it up high and close to the side. So it’s unobtrusive and hidden as possible but still useable. It bolts to the 1.5”x1.5” upright on that side. Wiring is 12 gauge. Not much else I can do until I get my brake booster pump and shifter. Ac/heat wiring but using this chance to get some around the house work done.

https://i.imgur.com/JP2loqw.jpg

Svtfreak

10-04-2018, 03:39 PM

No new pics today, but a couple hurdles done. The brake pump from ABS came today so I swapped it out. And my electro hydraulic power brakes now work great! No leaks on my firs ever for me stainless lines with all AN fittings. And that’s a first also!

Picked up on wiring the ac/heat. Got blower going but the defrost/panel/floor wouldn’t change. The switch was working and the control box was working (+12 v was changing pins on switch and changing to where the control sent it on plugs) but they wouldn’t move. So called vintage air and they walked me through pulling the servo. The floor one, the doors where just stuck. Got it going. The panel one the servo isn’t working. So they got one coming to me to replace it.

Svtfreak

10-09-2018, 05:10 PM

Had a good day tidying up loose ends. Got my servo from vintage air and got it working and back together. Got my gauges in and got those wired up. I used the cruise control input for the power steering trouble light. Swapped out the sensors for water temp and oil pressure. Everything seems in order and works. The gauges staying in the box for now. The control boxes I mounted on spacers on the air control box. Forgive the absolute mess of wires. When I do the final assembly, I will dewire the harness and then make everything neat. For now, I’m just making sure I have everything I need in the right place and it’s working. The BIM-01-2 takes the speed, rpm and a few other things from the ecu and allows display of it in the gauges.
https://i.imgur.com/GkZ6rOC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KabMSHw.jpg

The Dakota digital gauges need a special dimmer if you want it to dim by a knob. The normal FFR gauge dimmer won’t work. So, instead of running a new wire, I moved the gauge light white from its place and soldered it onto the blue headlight wire. I removed the wire from the plug and soldered it straight to the terminal. You can adjust the light brightness in the gauges but once set it’s a little more than just a knob. Which is ok with me. I’ll set it once. I’m a little worried about it not coming on with running lights, but there was already two wires there. If that comes to be a problem in my shakedown time, I’ll move it for final build.
https://i.imgur.com/uvwt7Dy.jpg

I also went and got my body out of storage today and fixed a bad rivnut in it. Going to cut my gauge hole and access holes for ac and brake reservoirs and get started on getting it on and body work, power windows etc. Exciting to move to new phases.

Still waiting on my shifter to go cart around a bit.

Svtfreak

10-17-2018, 04:43 PM

Put it in today. Ready for first go cart tomorrow I hope! I will have to brace the mounting surface when I take the tunnel out. I used rivnuts as the bolts where not long enough.
https://i.imgur.com/RB7enhO.jpg

I did have to reangle the bracket to clear the frame.
https://i.imgur.com/ircSvlD.jpg

Installed and done. Will have to put a keeper to keep cable out of driveshaft. Otherwise works wonderfully. The side movement for up and down shift is real neat. Can't wait to wire that up and try it.
https://i.imgur.com/SRhxwqm.jpg

Svtfreak

10-18-2018, 09:31 AM

First drive!

The factory Mustang converter will work great with the power brakes. I am very pleased with the brakes, power steering effort and the converter. One weird noise to find. The throttle is very touchy. I might have tuner slow it a little when I have it tuned.

Sorry for very short video. The camera man wasn't fast enough when I came back. Didn't go far, or fast. Baby steps!

https://youtu.be/alKedbs4UJ0

https://youtu.be/alKedbs4UJ0

TxMike64

10-18-2018, 11:02 AM

Awesome! Congrats on the go-cart!

CVOBill

10-18-2018, 11:03 AM

COngrats on the first drive.

Svtfreak

10-18-2018, 06:26 PM

Thanks yall! It ain't perfect, some issues to tighten up. But exciting and fun nonetheless

JOP33

10-19-2018, 05:59 AM

Sounds great! Congratulations!

AJT '33

10-19-2018, 07:37 AM

Thanks yall! It ain't perfect, some issues to tighten up. But exciting and fun nonetheless

Excellent, unfortunately for all us '33 builders somehow our cars will never be perfect in our eyes and we will ALWAYS be tinkering with it, it part of our game in building these!!

wrp

10-19-2018, 06:04 PM

Agree with AJT I think you will find that finishing the majority of the build, you will miss having something that needs to be done. I know I do. That inevitably leads to changes.

Svtfreak

10-19-2018, 07:03 PM

Agree with AJT I think you will find that finishing the majority of the build, you will miss having something that needs to be done. I know I do. That inevitably leads to changes.

Funny you say that. I.always like having one finished and one project. My mk 4 is done. When this one is done I'll probably sell the mk4 and build the wife a 65/66 Mustang. Kinda cookie cutter but her dad restored them when she was a little girl. So I'll make it cool in our way. Supercharged coyote and a6! Lol

wrp

10-20-2018, 02:51 PM

That would be awesome. Unfortunately I can only really afford one idea generator at a time.

Svtfreak

10-26-2018, 01:01 PM

Installed my factory intake today and test drove it. A little stumble occasionally but much better than before. This thing will be stupid fast and I haven't even started the supercharger install!

In other news. I cut the holes for the gauges and access panels. Smoothed the edges good and planned the overlap for router to countersink them. Also tapped in for third brake light and dropped that wire out below dash so don't have to try after body is on. I think I have everything I need from there so can put body back on soon. Tapped into the purple wire right before it goes to plug to rear harness.

https://i.imgur.com/His3azZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NgtVEjg.jpg
How you like this for a custom intake lol! At least now I feel better about putting the blower on and just having it tuned once.
https://i.imgur.com/AeM54as.jpg
Here is where I tapped in for the third brake light. There's solder and a little shrink wrap under there somewhere. Didn't have much room and heat made me cut the wrap down so added some tape to help protect it.
https://i.imgur.com/SHpepZe.jpg

I quit for the day. I'm going for a ride in the mk4. It's 65 deg and first real nice fall day we've had.

Svtfreak

11-01-2018, 03:44 PM

I modified the dremel router depth tool today and cut out to flush mount my cowl covers. It's not perfect, but a little extra glass behind and a touch of body filler and they'll look great. Here is the tool and how I just cut the brace off. It took some patience for sure though.
https://i.imgur.com/XJFcw8k.jpg

Here is final "routed" product.
https://i.imgur.com/N4D0aGA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KwOn71f.jpg

I did install the driveshaft cover also. Pain to do once the tunnel is in....
https://i.imgur.com/mfmFDI4.jpg

Lastly, I turned the body over to finish back filling my tail light holes. Also going to glass in some metal plates for the rear top bolts. And I'm going to glass in some plates around the front top mount bolts to help spread the force out and prevent cracking I hope. Also have to build up the backs of the cowl access holes to have strength for the rivnuts that will be counter sunk there. That'll be next Mondays work. I'm off next week and hope to have the body on and maybe close to working on power windows by the weeks end.
https://i.imgur.com/ktWFV1m.jpg

JOP33

11-01-2018, 03:57 PM

Nice job on the Cowl Covers!

Svtfreak

11-05-2018, 10:05 AM

Nice job on the Cowl Covers!

Thanks!

A little glass work today. Glassed in some washers for the back top mount places to help reinforce the rivnuts and hold them in. Got plenty epoxy down around the nuts. Then I made some plates to reinforce the front top mount areas and help spread the load out. Hopefully prevent any stress and cracking. Then I built up the area around my access panels where I counter sinking them in since it was pretty thin. That's it for today. Got some errands to run and grab some body filler. Think I'll do the body seams tomorrow before I put the body on maybe Wednesday.

https://i.imgur.com/babGhiI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8t3ZDV0.jpg

Svtfreak

11-05-2018, 01:40 PM

Made a carbon fuel vent canister today. 1 1/2 pvc pipe. Fish tank charcoal filler with dry rite to remove water. Excuse my messy bench

The parts.
https://i.imgur.com/kZEK4jx.jpg
Inlet end
https://i.imgur.com/O4NH3Kb.jpg
Vent end. Just a pattern of 1/8" holes. Can also see the media in some gas to test it. This is the dry rite that'll go in last to help dry the air going into the tank and hopefully help with E10's affinity for water.
https://i.imgur.com/LNCtOtr.jpg
Fish tank charcoal inside a Panty hose foot then pulled tight and tied off and packed in.
https://i.imgur.com/chPZ4l7.jpg
The dry rite. I filled the carbon the same way. Then pulled tight and tied off. I left extrato help keep it tight so it won't let vapors get around the media if I mount it horizontal
https://i.imgur.com/0sJCmfl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DyrqMb6.jpg

Svtfreak

11-05-2018, 01:41 PM

Finished product. Both ends. Cap not glued on yet. Gonna let dry rite sit in gas overnight to ensure it'll work. Just some extra help for the humid south Louisiana air. Carbon should work well enough alone but I had it laying around so trying it out.
https://i.imgur.com/Ntso4vS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2wCZMTW.jpg

Tomorrow lll sand and paintit black.

wrp

11-05-2018, 09:16 PM

That is a really nice touch on the access panels.

Svtfreak

11-06-2018, 03:17 PM

That is a really nice touch on the access panels.
Thanks! The only hurdle I have left is to figure out what type of seal stripping to use. It has to be thin and be able to keep water out.

More good progress today. Turned the body back over, cleaned up the access edges. 4 layers of cloth yielded thick ledges for the plates. Then I decided to do the body seams with it off the car. I use 3M platinum plus. Then on the car it went. I also went and got the doors, top and waterfall out of storage and cleaned up the top.
https://i.imgur.com/aACzhZK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kCKR7ue.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X7oxC2r.jpg

But something is wrong. All my body fasteners lined up with minimal fuss. Firewall bolts, body side rivets and rear bolts. Something definitely isn't right for that to happen lol

Tomorrow, I think I'll reinstall the doors and fit the waterfall (haven't had it in yet) and maybeput the top on so I can start working on power windows.

FF33rod

11-06-2018, 04:21 PM

Watcha planning on doing with the tail lights? looks like you filled in the space for the standard FFR lights. Going with something flush?

Svtfreak

11-06-2018, 05:12 PM

Watcha planning on doing with the tail lights? looks like you filled in the space for the standard FFR lights. Going with something flush?
Yessir. Going to put hagan 9" flush mount teardrops instead. And a 12" flush mount third brake light in the top. Above the rear window.

TDSapp

11-07-2018, 11:13 AM

Thanks! The only hurdle I have left is to figure out what type of seal stripping to use. It has to be thin and be able to keep water out.

Since you put thicker glass under the lip, why not pull your router out and drop in an 1/8" bit then cut a small o-ring groove in the flange. McMaster-Carr has just about any size o-ring that you could fit into the groove. You would not need much of the o-ring sticking out of the groove to provide a positive seal.

Svtfreak

11-07-2018, 03:53 PM

Since you put thicker glass under the lip, why not pull your router out and drop in an 1/8" bit then cut a small o-ring groove in the flange. McMaster-Carr has just about any size o-ring that you could fit into the groove. You would not need much of the o-ring sticking out of the groove to provide a positive seal.

Wow. I love it! Thanks Tim!

No pics yet. But I got the doors back in (noatches yet) and waterfall fit up. Started to fit the roll bar but without having my basic seat plan sorted out to know where my heads gonna fall, I elected to defer that till I take it apart. Got some minor door refitting to do. Top will go on tomorrow and then I can start the windows but I don't have the materials to make the plans that (I forgot the name) shared here. Maybe I'll go run errands tomorrow lol.

Svtfreak

11-08-2018, 12:12 PM

Top is back on. Waterfall is in. Doors are pretty darn close. Power window time. Then I think I'll try to get the blower on.

The flange for the window weatherstripping is too thick. I need to thin it out but I'm tired. Head hurts. Going take a break.

https://i.imgur.com/sVkd9rX.jpg

Svtfreak

11-28-2018, 04:31 PM

Started building my power window frame from T Collins today (thanks again!). I did make one change. I cut the top peices 1/8” longer and am fitting the side rails under the 1/16” lip on each end to hide the upright u channels when viewed from the top. I actually may change them out later to even longer to trim the ends better. I’ll decide after I see how it all fits together on the car. Will be next week before I can finish them up.

https://i.imgur.com/1BfCf40.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SWLrzx9.jpg

Svtfreak

11-29-2018, 02:49 PM

Finished the window tracks today. Still have to put the mounting angles in the bottom but figured I’d get it in the door first as there could be huge difference between mine and tCollins. Now on to thinning the weatherstripping flange and getting these in. I’ll try to start on that next week. Gonna grind the front and rear window flanges thinner also while I’m outside with it making a mess.

I didn’t put the felt and window scraper rubber in yet. I’ll do that right before I load the glass and into the door. At some point I’ll prolly have to redo that anyway when I maybe remake the top parts and paint or chrome them.
https://i.imgur.com/1f78Mgq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/498niHJ.jpg

Svtfreak

12-03-2018, 01:18 PM

Took the top off today to thin the flanges around the windows for the weather stripping and grind the front and rear window openings out to a 3/4" ledge all around. The front and rear where fine. The side windows though where very thin in some spots, and not glued together well. I broke through in some places. Dadgummit. So, I mixed up some epoxy and soaked some cloth in it and tucked into where I broke through. I hope to get it plugged enough I can mix some flock and fill it in without having to access the backside. Well see after this cures and I can smooth it out I guess. It might have done it cause I ground too much off to try to get the weather stripping tucked as close to the body as possible. If I'd have left a touch more of the flange, might have been OK. Either way, now I have to fix it and it'll still look the way I want it to when done.

https://i.imgur.com/si8JZ0B.jpg

Svtfreak

12-04-2018, 10:25 AM

Made an attempt at patching the spots today. I did a test yesterday and it seems to have worked. Rather than try to get access to the backside, I soaked some glass and and poked it down into the cracks. Then sanded down. Seems to have bonded well enough. So today I did them all. After it cures well (aided by a lamp since it's cold today), I'll fill the little voids left. Also changed out the studs for mounting the front to longer ones to clear the extra bracing I put under the cowl.

https://i.imgur.com/Gv1WnFw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S9CghbD.jpg

OnlyAndy

12-04-2018, 12:02 PM

Svtfreak

12-05-2018, 06:24 PM

I have a question,,, maybe a little off point, but looking at your body upside down on floor while you are doing glass work,,,, Are there any special weak areas that need an extra bit of glass work to make the body stronger etc??? I have my body sitting on a rolling dolly right side up and I can see pin holes of light coming through the parting seam at the front of the cowl. I know I'm going to have to work on that seam and maybe OTHER areas as well??? Thx in advance.

If I wasnt running a top, id definitely add some sparing under the rear package tray area (rear cowl). The sides behind the dooors I also will probably add some glassed in wood to prevent flexing but will get it all together to see if its needed.

AJT '33

12-07-2018, 08:46 AM

I had taken advantage of adding some glass to the underside to smooth it out and also make the fit as good as possible (ensuring as little bondo as possible). The steel baker is bonded in well and will hold however I went the extra step and bonded in special fasteners to lock in the fasteners, see my build page #167, https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26293-Black-amp-Copper-33-Hot-Rod-1028 and you can see how i had glassed and smoothed it out before bonding in the fasteners.
98707 98708

Svtfreak

12-10-2018, 05:39 PM

Looks good, ajt. Is your top permanent? I don't see your weather strips there.

AJT '33

12-11-2018, 08:24 AM

Looks good, ajt. Is your top permanent? I don't see your weather strips there.

Top is not permanent however the tape that comes with the car, when compressed is less than an eighth thick so when i dry fit it, it did not make a difference. Here is the fasteners when they were bonded in.
98866 98867
I left the stainless washer there as well, my blog shows the steps I took.

Svtfreak

12-12-2018, 09:20 PM

Sweet thanks.

I got my window channels fixed up (haven't smoothed it all out yet). And the top back on. Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll start working on getting the window motors and Collins frames in.

Svtfreak

12-13-2018, 04:37 PM

Good progress today but no pictures. I am doing the passenger side windows. Once I get it done and to the driver side, I'll document the steps and post. I have the Collins designed frame fitting and have the motor almost mounted. The holes to mount it are a pain to drill and I suggest doing it before you assemble the doors. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have that done and the glass in and maybe some movement.

Svtfreak

12-18-2018, 03:05 PM

OK. Started on drivers side today so will dcomument in more detail the steps to put in Collins window frames. And to let you guys see f I'm screwing up.

Step one. Install the window striping. You can see how far back I cut the flange to allow more viewing area out of the side windows.

https://i.imgur.com/fUQBDTM.jpg
Now just like ffr says, mark where the edge meets the door. This is where the glass should fall.
https://i.imgur.com/y7LfDIZ.jpg

Now we mark where the front and rear edge of the glass will be when centered in the opening. I used the glass. Center it up and mark the ends.
https://i.imgur.com/8bTK7jS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wiUC5CW.jpg

Now we measure the frame to figure the opening. You need 1/2" on the outside from center and 3/8" on inside
https://i.imgur.com/16HN98V.jpg

Now well draw the lines. Just like ffr says but using the above measurements. Then draw the ends. The frame is 1/2" longer than the window. So square the ends of the box you drew 1/4" longrr on each end.
https://i.imgur.com/kmvwGeC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/djje2ca.jpg

Svtfreak

12-18-2018, 03:05 PM

Cut it out. I used an air saw. However. I found my top was not glued together well at all. So I'll fix it later today.
https://i.imgur.com/7ht7DWx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wE23o9B.jpg

Now we need to place the motor. I'll sand the edges and clean up the slot and pick up on fitting it after my epoxy cures. Maybe tomorrow.

The book says to cut the track and it's too short then for most people. So I measured,at the center of the slot, from the bottom of the lower door steel arm to the bottom of the slot for the window and cut the track this. It was 16 15/16th for me. Then I measured from the top of the mounting bracket up the track and cut.
https://i.imgur.com/Qfb4hvk.jpg

Install motor and drill and bolt up holes. I centered it to the window slot. Missing a bolt still cause I can't get it drilled right while Installee. I'll drill the last one later
https://i.imgur.com/7TgUZw5.jpg

After the motor is in, you can get the windows basic position set by loosening the bolts and moving the bracket in/out/twist to line the window plate up to the slot when looking down. I have it close but not perfect in this photo. I'll line it up better once the frame is in
https://i.imgur.com/OGhlEq1.jpg

To be continued. I stopped here today and fiberglassed the door tops back together. Tomorrow I'll clean that up then continue on.

AJT '33

12-19-2018, 08:51 AM

Following your install very closely as I am at the same point in getting the power windows installed. I needed to trim, reduce the thickness and get the edge as close to 3/16" as possible. As I am doing the FFR method of install, it'll be interesting to see how the felts line up as the gap is smaller than the felts themselves, I expect the window will push up and through the felt when moved up. we will see this weekend!!

Svtfreak

12-19-2018, 04:09 PM

Back at it today for a little bit.

The frame sets into the slot after some sanding and filing. Here it is sitting on the nuts at each end. Mark the nuts locations and take a little material out so they’ll slide through. I removed the bottom brace of the frame and reinstalled it inside the door so as to not cut the a slot too large. I filed out cut outs for the nuts and the rivets that hold the glass wiper in

https://i.imgur.com/foIdHbM.jpg

Set down in place. You notice the center isn’t touching. I’ll pull that down later with some pretty little screws through the angle to tie the door tops to the frame and make it all stiffer.
https://i.imgur.com/bXcMXDU.jpg

Install the glass holder. I trimmed the bolts so they won’t hang up on the bottom brace of the frame when lowered.
https://i.imgur.com/eH7uYUQ.jpg

Slide the glass in and let it kinda line the frame up to its travel. I’ll fine tune the position if all a little later. When all mounts in place.
https://i.imgur.com/1n9GdXr.jpg

Fabricated the mount at the front. Had to add a piece to reach the door frame over what mr Collins designed. The passenger side didn’t need it but this side did.
https://i.imgur.com/fNVz3Jk.jpg

Had to stop to go somewhere so will pick up tomorrow on making the rear mount.

Side note, I also trimmed the length of the bolts that hold the bottom brace on so they don’t hit the outer door skin.

Tampa33Build

12-20-2018, 07:08 AM

Great detail!
I hope to be installing the windows next month and plan on using Mr. Collin's design also.

Svtfreak

12-20-2018, 12:17 PM

Great detail!
I hope to be installing the windows next month and plan on using Mr. Collin's design also.

Great! His is a great design, but it also has its flaws. I’ll detail them all and how I worked around after I have them completed and working.

Ok. Got the rear mount done for the Collins frame. Didn’t need to be this complicated but i wanted the bolt through to the jamb to be in same place on both sides.

https://i.imgur.com/E3Y6woc.jpg

Run the track down to the bottom and Install the glass and run The glass up and down by hand a few times with the frame mounts loose. This aligns the track to the window. Tighten the mounts. Then bring the track up to about halfway. Push the glass down to it. It probably will not line up with the glass holder. Loosen the motor and track mount bolts and align the window holder to the bottom of the window. I actually removed the track bracket and did the motor then redrilled the track bracket. Before and after.
https://i.imgur.com/wZyKJiD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/svVNL9b.jpg

Now run the window up using the motor and get it to its highest point. Might require lowering and raising again using quick taps of the ground. It should be very close to right. (I’ve got to move my track slightly to get it to sit against the rubber at the top. I will probably remove the bottom brace of the Collins track after the mounts are tight on final assembly to get the room I’ll need to get it flush to rubber. It’s very close here)
https://i.imgur.com/IjkoN0q.jpg

At this point, I decided since i have to have the passenger side trimmed to fit, I’m going to have this side trimmed to be a better fit also. I marked the glass with tape to bring to glass shop.

While it’s in upper position, mark the glass and track for the holder install and stops install. Run to the bottom and mark for bottom stops install per instructions. Here is marked for the holder. There are slots so it just has to be close.

https://i.imgur.com/y0WOlV6.jpg

Alright. Now it all comes completely apart. After I get to the glass shop, maybe after Christmas next week, I’ll get back on it for stops installation and final assembly and we’ll walk through that. I’m cautiously optimistic at the moment.

AJT '33

12-20-2018, 02:30 PM

Well I just came back from the glass shop and due to the fact that the glass is tempered they cannot trim or sand it down at all!! So now I am stuck trying to figure out how to modify the hard top so the glass fits with some play, at least on the passenger side, drivers side I can work with. Curious to see where you end up as well.

Svtfreak

12-20-2018, 02:57 PM

AJT '33

12-20-2018, 04:39 PM

Not what I wanted to hear, AJ! That’s going to be some serious glass work on that passenger side. Driver side is mighty close and could work but passenger side won’t fit as is. I’m not even sure I won’t have to shorten the Collins window frame if the glass is shortened that much.

The edges look sanded from ffr. I find that hard to believe that it can’t be sanded. I can see not able to score and cut but sanding? I’m off to google and will let you know what glas shop says. May run by there tomorrow.

UPDATE: Tony Z is sending me a new set of side windows, apparently I received ones that were fabricated too wide (just over 32" like a 1/32"). As to the finishing all the sanding and such is done before they are tempered, so what you see is what they did before tempering (which is exactly what my glass guys told me). This is why you cant sand or trim tempered glass it will break!
Regardless, because your serial number is close to mine (mine is #1028) I would measure yours and send photos and an email to Tony Z. This is what I sent him in my email as a measurement of the passenger side. Not sure what we would do as builders without this blog and network of experienced builders!!
99284

PS. The front and back windshield are laminated (AS1) and not tempered (AS2) so laminated glass can be sanded down a bit to get that even fit. I will be having mine professionally done before they come and glue it in place after paint (I want an even 1/8" of clearance all around, it'll look better).

Svtfreak

12-20-2018, 07:50 PM

Thanks aj. I’ll take the measurements and call him maybe next week. 1/32” won’t be near enough though. As I said, I need maybe a touch over 1/4” taken off. I will also inquire my glass shop about cutting a whole new glass and tempering it if it comes to that. I also found the thread telling about the size problem. So I’ll look at other options after I explore that route.

Thanks AJ!

erlihemi

12-21-2018, 10:50 AM

Svtfreak

12-21-2018, 11:02 AM

Great Pics! I lost track of whether your using door poppers or plan on the FFR external handles. You may want to make sure you get final fit on the door handles if your using the FFR units. It gets tight in the front of the door with the cable release and hokey assembly FFR supplies. Not sure how the Collins assembly integrates with those. Its also a good time to decide on the suicide safety latch you will use. I'm betting the hardtop and doors represent 50% of the body work on these cars. Definitely the most asymmetry side to side. Thanks for sharing your efforts :)

Thank you!

I will be using door handles but I am undecided as to what I want. Part of me wants chrome handles like the ffr supplied units, and part of me wants color matched flush like what is on first gen Mazda Miata. Either way, I wanted to get the windows in and working so I can see what room is left to work with. Same with the safety latch. I have an idea and may end up building my own using transmiiosn park/neutral switch (since my shifter ones are unused for the starter as that is integral to the ecu).

Yes I'm finding out that the top and doors and windows are about the hardest part! But I'm cautiously optimistic that I can actually do this lol!

GoDadGo

12-21-2018, 11:26 AM

When You Said This Car Was Way Tougher Than Your Earlier Build Boy Did You Mean It!

Good Luck From The Go Dad In The Dell!

Slidell That Is!

Steve

duff33

12-21-2018, 11:32 AM

Mine is #1024, did the windows a month or so ago. The PS was definately tighter than the DS but it does fit in the opening without much room to spare. Only thing I had to do was change to up stop.

Svtfreak

12-21-2018, 03:28 PM

When You Said This Car Was Way Tougher Than Your Earlier Build Boy Did You Mean It!

Good Luck From The Go Dad In The Dell!

Slidell That Is!

Steve

OH yeah Steve. The first person that says "oh you bolted together a kit car" is getting punched in the mouth! Lol. Seriously, the hot rod is more a collection of parts that ffr choose that kind of will fit together with some work to make a car. Def not as refined and proven as their mark 4's. And many parts need more massaging than building a car from parts you choose from Speedway motors (for instance).

Mine is #1024, did the windows a month or so ago. The PS was definately tighter than the DS but it does fit in the opening without much room to spare. Only thing I had to do was change to up stop.

Thanks duff. I'll Def look into that also. Did you trim back your flange around the window opening to closer to 3/4" or did you leave it the full thickness? If I would have left the top rail the full thickness from the edge, it might have allowed me to let the window not come up quite as far. But that wouldn't have looked right.

1932

12-21-2018, 09:37 PM

I cut all windows to 1/2, did not want to have the edge show between seal and body. all was good but a little tight on top of doors.

Svtfreak

01-08-2019, 06:20 AM

I called FFR and sent them some pics. They told me to try to fit the front windshield in so I did. Sure enough, that lower passenger corner didn't fit right. It appears my top is pulled in in that lower corner causing my problem. They suggested redrilling the mounting holes, heating the top st that corner and pulling it forward to make the fit and shape correct, using windshield fitment as a guide and that will give the right clearance for the windows. I'm going to take a little break and replace the fireplace for my wife, get her reading nook built, to keep her happy she keeps being OK with me building cars. Lol. So, I'll be back on this in a couple weeks or so.

erlihemi

01-08-2019, 12:35 PM

Sometime during my build I gave up on having both the roadster windshield and hard top swap. At this point my top was off square corner to corner by 1/2". Same direction as yours I believe. Mold issue I'm guessing from other posts. Fortunately it was summer in a dry year and I used 2 push clamps on it. One along the passenger side window path rear to front pillar and one diagonally from drivers rear to passenger side front pillar. Then I left it set out in the sun a couple weeks. If I used a heat gun I think I would use it on low in the inside upper corner and cycle it a few times over about a week. I only gained about 1/4" after spring back and the roof was still a parallelogram so when I bolted it on I pushed that corner a little more and attached it under tension. My passenger window was still tighter than the drivers. The mold is asymmetrical. It hasn't cracked and I have run it hard, but I did reinforce the cowl area a little more. The body seems to have "relaxed" a little over the last year and my doors have stabilized. Maybe I'll paint it next winter...:p

Svtfreak

01-10-2019, 05:35 PM

Thanks erli. I have already reinforced my cowl a bit. If the stretch is too much, I may do the long time thing you did.

I have given up on making it swappable myself. I'm even kind of considering glassing it on permanent but I'm a little worried about it flexing and cracking at that joint so currently working towards it never coming off but telling people "yeah it can but it's not easy". Which wouldn't be completely untrue.

Either way, I've kinda got the red *** so I'm taking a break for a bit to finish a fireplace project for the wife lol.

Svtfreak

01-24-2019, 12:07 PM

Ok. Bathroom project done and some overtime out the way. Couldn’t wait to get into the shop and try to spread this top a bit. Made up my jack bolts, and they worked. Sorta. Had to reinforce the rod. 1/2” is a long way in fiberglass. But it got there. Bolted top down in new holes. Everything good so far. Measure opening. 32 1/16. Perfect. Then....

*POP*.

Uhoh.

Crap......

https://i.imgur.com/zknLiNt.jpg

Yep. 1/2” is too much. The lower windshield area split. Cracked from too much force on it. I had even spread the needed change out over the entire half but that last bit was just too much.

Got an email in to factory five now to see how to proceed. I could cut pie wedges out and change the shape and reglassthat whole corner but I feel I shouldn’t have to. If the remivebale soft top had side curtains, I’d be looking hard at that right now....

Maybe it’s time to do my bathroom remodel.....

Svtfreak

01-28-2019, 10:42 AM

While I wait to hear back from ffr about my cracked hard top, I decided to fit up the roadster windshield. Easy peasy. It seems my rear body may be tweaked a tiny bit but I got the measurements real close to what ffr says. It’s tough to get things to look right and measure right with these out of kilter bodies.

https://i.imgur.com/T2K9LDt.jpg

Svtfreak

01-29-2019, 04:42 PM

Better pic.

https://i.imgur.com/TF5s9GT.jpg

Dave B at ffr contacted me yesterday. The top is def out of whack at that front corner. So they offered me a new top. But over the weekend, I did some soul searching. This project started as a roadster and occasional top use car. But, long story short, after seeing how tough that top is to get off and on, it became a full time coupe. This has caused me to really rethink the whole top delimma. So, after some talking with Dave, they offered store credit on the top to use towards a soft top. That was very very generous of them. I say again, all my dealings with ffr have been top notch. Their customer service has been great with me.

So now, I have some time to decide, I will either be going soft top or Dan Ruth’s hard top. I see things i like about both and advantages to both. At the moment, I feel that the soft top is the way to go for what I want to do (with side curtains) but I wanna think it through. Meanwhile, the windshield is mounted and I think I’ll start finding places to mount the intercooler reservoir and LTR while I save a few bucks for the top.

Oh, and I’m squeezing a bathroom remodel and expansion in with the car for the next few months lol.

sturigus83

02-05-2019, 06:30 PM

Stv freak if you go on Eastwood.com they have about anything for building cars and they do sell seam sealer I was looking at it last night.

TDSapp

02-06-2019, 11:06 AM

Oh, and I’m squeezing a bathroom remodel and expansion in with the car for the next few months lol.

I am impressed... How are you going to get a bathroom in the car? Seems like there would be no room.

FF33rod

02-06-2019, 02:02 PM

Looking for a cooling system flush?

Svtfreak

02-07-2019, 07:17 AM

Sturgis, I’ll prolly use their seam sealer when the time comes.

Hah! You guys are funny!

Svtfreak

02-07-2019, 02:28 PM

After I glassed in the door tops a bit (still have to layer some cloth and get it right, just got the parts I cut out in place with some flocking), I started working on supercharger support gear. I started with the low temp cooler and after an hour or so, I come to the conclusion that the mustang one won’t fit. I’ve already found a couple alternatives that will fit where I’m thinking I want it (behind the axle on the trunk panel that drops down). So I moved on to the resevoir. I thought it would be the hard one, but after trying a couple spots, it ended up here. I still have to make the top support mount (the rusty plate for it is bolted to the tank). But it’s clear of the driveshaft and moving suspension parts. I’ll post the remainder of the mount next week once it’s finished. It hangs about 1/4-1/2” lower than the frame but I think it’ll be ok consider its plastic, flexes some and the radius edge should help it should it contact anything. Even if it does, even if it causes a puncture, this fluid system isn’t required. I can still drive it home.
https://i.imgur.com/pPbybXO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ROQB86x.jpg

Svtfreak

05-01-2019, 10:52 AM

I think I'm back in bidness, yall! The major bathroom remodel is done and my soft top came in. So back on the hot rod. Short term, I need to get the top fit, doors finished and blower on and tune in so I can do the hood. That and the trunk then it's time for blowing up for paint I think.

Started today by adding the final (I hope) glass to fill in the door tops. After I sand this smooth, hopefully this is done.
https://i.imgur.com/dnk3rTF.jpg

Then I started on the top. Got the clevises in, and since it didn't have different colored washers like the instructions say, I stamped the drivers one with a D. Got the rear belt on. I have to mount the front bow now but it has material attached and I'd rather not work with that around the fresh glass (it'll be a few hours before it cures). So gonna take a break for the day maybe. Tomorrow I'll try to sand the door tops and maybe mount top more.
https://i.imgur.com/Mec0TJm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Epw1UV4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CBUpFZl.jpg

Svtfreak

05-01-2019, 11:45 AM

I couldn't leave it alone. Had to see what the top looks like. Threw some freezer paper over the wet glass and moved on. I love it! So glad I went this route now.
https://i.imgur.com/W7W7R9r.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nC2jtLP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rL8VkPm.jpg

FF33rod

05-01-2019, 11:47 AM

That soft top looks fantastic!

CVOBill

05-01-2019, 12:32 PM

I really like the tan, that looks great.

Svtfreak

05-01-2019, 04:52 PM

I really like the tan, that looks great.

Thanks, Bill! I'm glad you talked me into the soft top. Really appreciate the time you spend talking to me and answering my questions.

Svtfreak

05-02-2019, 01:21 PM

Got the side curtains fit today. Then went on to final align the doors and get the gaps right. That was pretty easy since it has been done before. Then moved on to the door tops. Typical ffr, they don't line up to all points. So I aligned the belt line and will fill the top up to match the dash and rear. I will even be able to leave some curve in it since not using windows and give it a slightly different look. First layer of filler in just to smooth out the glass. Then I'll build up to match.

https://i.imgur.com/BcUGUsS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UBFkM1k.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/piyjPee.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dElXjfh.jpg
The rear of that door needs to come out a touch. That will be easier to do when taking it apart for paint. Won't be bad to get that right. The drivers side fits just as good but the edges need some attention since ffr got a little happy with the cutter on it.
https://i.imgur.com/MJ79fhT.jpg

Svtfreak

05-07-2019, 01:39 PM

Today, now that the doors are lined up on the body molding line, I was able to finish making the tops line up to the body. I love my ffr's, and they've been great to deal with. But if they ever figure out how to glue a door together and it actually meet more than one reference point, they'll be on target! Neither of mine lined up to the body top once aligned to molding. And one had a serious low spot from not being glued properly. So I fixed some of it when I glasses the window slot back up and built up some front and rear, then filler finished off the slope to make them match the door tops. Since I am no longer am using power windows, the door tops need not be flat. It's hard to see in photos, but actually gives the door a nice shape rather than a long flat section between two curved body panels. I also put straps on the trunk lid and tossed it out in the sun. Hopefully, that'll pull it in and make the lower corners fit better. The last photo is a little teaser of what's coming soon. Gotta get it in place to get the hood on and done.
https://i.imgur.com/TCK0cLx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3pXAVfG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yjdaUwU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kc4WUIN.jpg

Svtfreak

05-10-2019, 03:13 PM

What is the definition of overkill?

Here we go!

Got it all apart. Cleaned up, ready to toss some belt driven intake on. Now, this step is not to get it running, but to continue body work. I've got a few things more I need before I can get it running again with the blower. But, seeing it on there just tickles me.
https://i.imgur.com/jYNWi9x.jpg

Have to take the stepper motor out of the factory throttle body, and it's gear and install in the crusher big oval one from Whipple. The factory cover is used also.
https://i.imgur.com/NFx6djZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kwkqKXh.jpg

Lower intake goes in now with fuel rails, id1000's, and front and rear crossovers. The crossover on driver side rubs the firewall pretty good. I'll remake it with -AN fitting and it'll get away and leave plenty clearance when I redo the fuel system.
https://i.imgur.com/3zcabRu.jpg

Next step is the drive pulley plate. It shares one mounting point with the alternator. I assembled it all, and measured the difference and cut that out of the spacer for the alternator there. Now the bolt goes through the Alt bracket, through the spacer, through the blower idler bracket, through its spacer then into the timing cover. I had to cut 2.125 off of it.
https://i.imgur.com/DfnG2I6.jpg

As you can see, it looks like the pulleys line up. The photo doesn't do it justice. Any off one way or the other and it looks crooked. But a string line looks to be all straight. If it starts tossing belts, this will be the first place I look.
https://i.imgur.com/ualHaGI.jpg

The alternator pulley rides real close to the blower idler bracket. That's OK, unless I have to get the belt through there. I'll cut that area off after I make sure it all works.
https://i.imgur.com/o31cdN2.jpg

Svtfreak

05-10-2019, 03:13 PM

I still have to sort out belt routing. I have a couple options. The easy option is to route it on the outside of the outermost alt bolt but that won't leave much wrap on the alternator. If rather go in and around another idler but the top bolt is in the way. I am looking for a 36101 style pulley that is smaller diameter and that will be the fix it I can track something down. But, here is the current look. Its a 3.4L Whipple (twin screw) stg 2 kit. Make 675 whp on my '15 Mustang, very conservative tune. And still drove like a dream. Should still be a very reliable hot rod.
https://i.imgur.com/JOGKbST.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8s7SFNJ.jpg

I don't think the hood is gonna clear, even removing all but outer layer. I'll figure out something. I wanna keep it as sleek as possible.
https://i.imgur.com/DrzVDCI.jpg

TxMike64

05-10-2019, 09:02 PM

F5 sells a hood with a "power bulge"...

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/33676-extra-clearance-hood/

Svtfreak

05-12-2019, 01:24 PM

F5 sells a hood with a "power bulge"...

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/33676-extra-clearance-hood/

Yeah, I considered that when I ordered it. But I want to try to keep it as slick as possible. Might have lost a 700$ gamble though. I'll get mine on and see how much too far it is then go from there. I know ffr fit a SC 3v under the standard hood. And the 2015 style SC is supposed to be the lowest at the front. I was being hopeful. I don't think anyone will point out a hood bulge looking out of place once the reason is considered. Lol

Svtfreak

05-16-2019, 01:23 PM

While taking a break from blower stuff while I search for a pulley, started on the hagan 9" flush mount tear drop taillights.

First, I layer out the place I wanted them. I used the metal they sent as my pattern. I wanted to bend it to fit the car. In order to insure that the opening didn't move, I measured a couple places and checked before and after.
https://i.imgur.com/j09iv5X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/U2v4sXb.jpg
I used those as a guide to cut the holes (which I didn't get a photo of completed for some reason)

Then, I formed the lenses. I trimmed a pice of cardboard to fit the curve inside and transferred to a block. Then I clamped the lens and slowly heated and flexed it till it fit. Heated a bit more then let it cool while clamped in place. Didn't get any pics of that either for some reason.
https://i.imgur.com/WywKyLZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0UutkMZ.jpg

I will add that initially I clamped as you see above but ended up having to clamp the red part to get it to form correctly. A little square of card stock protected the red lens.

Using the same cardboard guide, I trimmed the boxes to fit the curve.
https://i.imgur.com/JdzKhmH.jpg

So now it sits with the holes cut, lenses formed and boxes trimmed. But the lenses aren't thick enough and the clear part is stopping then from getting down in the right place. So, before I mess Up, I stopped to think a bit. I may thin the glass around the openings and trim the clear part to fit into the thinned area allowing the red lens to stick high and be sanded to fit. The lens will glue into the body basically. I'm gonna think that over a bit before I go any farther.

FF33rod

05-16-2019, 01:32 PM

I'm very interested in how this works out. I've been looking at Hagan's lights and was wanting to do a something similar but it seemed like they were more geared towards a steel body.

Svtfreak

05-16-2019, 05:43 PM

I'm very interested in how this works out. I've been looking at Hagan's lights and was wanting to do a something similar but it seemed like they were more geared towards a steel body.

They are, but supposed to be able to be installed in glass also. Thin glass, it would be easy. The thickness of these is what's giving me the problem atm. Nothing I'm not certain I can't solve.

I'll post more of the what the actual problem is soon, maybe you guys can give some ideas.

Either Monday evening or Tuesday, I will post more. I'm preparing to drive to dallas to pick up a car (righting the wrong I made when I sold my 50th anniversary Mustang, found one with 400 mi and still 2 years warranty left), prepare the wife's car for a trip to TN the week after. So I don't have but a day to a day and a half. But stay tuned. I gotta get this done. I'll try to stay focused on this before I go back to the front end lol

Michael101

05-17-2019, 08:16 PM

That soft top looks great. I’m kicking myself for not going that route when I ordered my kit, went with the hardtop instead. After reading through your post many times I’m thinking I may go soft top after all and punt my hardtop package.

That engine combo is going to be a monster ��

Svtfreak

05-21-2019, 11:31 AM

I know I said I'd finish up taillights these days but other stuff got in the way. The wifes hybrid car died and that's outta my league. It's under warranty anyeay but I had to go get it and tow it in. And I need to call Tim about the taillights before I move on. So it'll be a bit.

Today I did have time to work on blower/ accessory belt routing. I ordered a gates 36375 pulley. It's about 1" smaller than the 36101's. It still was too tight. So I measured and rotated the alternator out a bit, and cut out an arc from the new idler. This gave it enough room without removing too much meat from the bracket. I'm going to weld up the old hole next time it comes out. Then ran into other problems. The belt wouldn't make it around the pulleys and not rub itself. So I changed the upper pulley to the ribbed one (stolen from the Whipple tensioner) and installed on the upper position. This got the belt away from itself. The reason it is doing this now is cause that pulley from Whipple takes the belt from the main pulley then sends it off a different direction to the tensioner. Since the alternator now takes up that spot, the belt doesn't go back to that bottom corner. The end result is, there is less than desirable belt wrap on the blower pulley. But, to be honest, I'm not sure I'll ever see conditions where that will matter. I'm not done analyzing this belt routing, but this will at least work.

Marking the bracket to move the alternator mounting hole. I didn't want it to intersect the old hole nor the edge.
https://i.imgur.com/dBWMaNB.jpg

You can see how I radiused to clear the new smaller pulley. It's close but doesn't touch. I am going to take a little more off next time it comes apart. I also removed some from there the alternator moved over a bit
https://i.imgur.com/gY42n9a.jpg

I'm going to add a gusset to the alternator bracket after I make sure the belt tracks correctly.

The final product.
https://i.imgur.com/8DjMC3D.jpg

BigB

06-14-2019, 09:50 AM

Are you running a vacuum hose from fuel regulator to the whipple intake? If so how did you do it?

Svtfreak

06-20-2019, 01:08 AM

Are you running a vacuum hose from fuel regulator to the whipple intake? If so how did you do it?

I haven't gotten that far yet. I will have to consult with the tuner when the time comes as to weather it will.be needed or not. This is my 3rd supercharged coyote but only my first with a return style fuel system. I'll certainly post the results when the time comes. Probably mid to late July, I will get the tune done and get it running again.

Svtfreak

07-02-2019, 02:23 PM

Managed to get some shop time today!

Started with this: a piece of 5" 90* exhaust pipe.
https://i.imgur.com/QmISP0c.jpg

Made me a pattern of the throttle body out of wood, and started beating. The sides where not moving so I made a jackbolt to push them out a bit.
https://i.imgur.com/wnAQmRq.jpg

Once that was close, I fit it up and cut off where I needed it to be pointing the right way. Installed the port for the crankcase vent and installed on the car with the mass air meter.
https://i.imgur.com/7XNmixW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s18Dkug.jpg

Here the a most final inlet. I have to find a shorter filter and make a cut and weld to make the bend a little tighter but it'll work.
https://i.imgur.com/YqYRQte.jpg

There was a ground wire for the harness that was where a whole mess of blower drive equipment. So I extended it down and grounded it to an empty boss on the timing cover. Not sure how I didn't get a pic of it loomed amd done.
https://i.imgur.com/OmyFqJ8.jpg

Called to get a tune written but they won't touch it with the current fuel system. Understandable considering the consequences. But since I have to change the fuel hat out, it won't happen soon unless I decide to pull the body up to get to it. Well see. But they did say it will run like it is, albeit not good. So I guess I'll try they next shop day. Which might be a few weeks lol.

FF33rod

07-11-2019, 03:36 PM

Curious if you ever got back to fitting the tail lights

Steve

Svtfreak

07-13-2019, 05:36 AM

Curious if you ever got back to fitting the tail lights

Steve

I sure haven't, Steve. I've been thinking about how I want to do it and haven't had much time. The wife had two conferences and we have two vacations. And now this storm swirling offshore and the rain they say it's bringing all have decreased my summer shop time to 1 day! I may get one more day. If the river floods much more than predicted, I may not get any shop days for months.

Either way, please stay tuned. I hope to tackle them middle of August. Assuming the storm moves on out and river stages don't get too high to affect me. Next things I have to do is fuel system, tune and that. I've elected to use a boyds tank rather than cut and modify the ffr one for the aeromotive dual 340 lph pump system.

FF33rod

07-13-2019, 11:27 AM

Yikes, weather sounds crazy. Am enjoying the details of your adding the blower... the torque on tap with a system like that is addictive (had an F-Type R for a couple of years).

Svtfreak

07-15-2019, 07:31 AM

Yikes, weather sounds crazy. Am enjoying the details of your adding the blower... the torque on tap with a system like that is addictive (had an F-Type R for a couple of years).

Yeah south Louisiana weather is a good indication of mother nature on Crack lol. But the rain mostly went west of us so river flooding isn't a concern for me any longer. There are others with problems though. I'm heading to the beach this week and hopefully next Wednesday I will get some tail light work done since I'll be waiting on fuel parts.

Yes, I do love PD blowers on the street. This'll be my 3rd supercharged coyote and 6th or 7th supercharged street car. They are tons of fun lol.

Svtfreak

07-31-2019, 05:48 PM

OK. The summer is coming to an end. I hope to get out there a couple days a week starting Friday I hope. My bum neck determining. Got a pinched nerve old doc gotta decide how to fix.

Anyway, I ripped out my stock fuel system and here is what's going in. Boyds tank, aeromotive dual 340 lph pumps. -8 AN braided nylon supply and -6 return. New lines to the rails to ditch the rubber and push fittings. Should be rocking. After I get all.this in, Steve (@ff33rod), I will be going back to the tail lights. I think I've figured out how I want to do it and am waiting on some lean to get here.

https://i.imgur.com/iPgRWyQ.jpg

Svtfreak

08-02-2019, 02:54 PM

Starting the new fuel system. Pumps and dual discharges tied to a single -8.
https://i.imgur.com/0jZoO9Q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OaLOeUZ.jpg

Everything is in. New sender was easy. Simple. Line it up to middle of tank then adjust arm length.
https://i.imgur.com/X6iYb1S.jpg

Here it is in the car. Ran out of time today. But the discharge is ran down to the filter and filter mounted. I'll work on the rest next week! Nothing real out of the ordinary to note. Making up AN fittings. Lots of them. -6 seem to be a pain! Not bolted down yet as I'm waiting to finish vent and wiring.

https://i.imgur.com/Cba4q0x.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lOVt5hh.jpg

The stock wire will not be enough. They say the pumps need 26 amps total at 40 psi. So slightly less at 55 psi. Either way, my wire isn't enough. Im going to build a relay box with a 10 gauge feed (they recommend) and use the coyote fuel wire to trip the relay on.

1932

08-03-2019, 12:45 PM

I had a hard time putting gas in-very slow-. Remade filler neck to let air out.

Svtfreak

08-08-2019, 11:19 AM

I had a hard time putting gas in-very slow-. Remade filler neck to let air out.

How did you modify it?

Worked on fuel system more. Had to stop today cause my 2.5 year old caught a little staph and is home. Poor baby.

Big Ole regulator. -8 inlet and outlet, -6 return. The outlet then splits to 2 -6's, one to the back of each fuel rail.
https://i.imgur.com/H7dCqf3.jpg

Heres the new tank in. The pump has dual -6 outlets, so I tied them together for a single -8 supply.
https://i.imgur.com/MsWXsz2.jpg

Removed all the factory barb fittings and the banjo fitting supply (which is a single -6 anyway). Installed the -6 o ring fittings on each end of the rails.
https://i.imgur.com/yUTpmAr.jpg

The front is now just a crossover. No longer has the supply fitting. Goes down low to clear the future coolant lines. The heater crossover is temporary. Those will go to the ac/heat on final build.
https://i.imgur.com/2S6Uul8.jpg

Each rail gets its own -6 supply from the y on the regulator outlet.
https://i.imgur.com/36ZctT2.jpg

I'm missing 2 -6 straight ends to tie up this part. To connect each hose for the rails to the y. Got them ordered and some -4 hose and npt fittings for the manifold reference to the regulator. Got them ordered. Also gonna change one end on the filter to tidy things up a bit.

Also went ahead and finally mounted my prototype carbon/moisture filter.
https://i.imgur.com/X6GPRSB.jpg

1932

08-08-2019, 01:30 PM

Happy to some more good fuel setups!
How big is the heat exchanger? With my setup am running 130 at intake.

Svtfreak

08-08-2019, 03:22 PM

Happy to some more good fuel setups!
How big is the heat exchanger? With my setup am running 130 at intake.

I'm really not sure. Whipple doesn't advertise that and I've never taken it apart. The finned depth of where you see is about 4". Blower discharges through there and comes back up from underneath then down into the heads.

1932, I'd like more info on how you modded to make filling easier please.

1932

08-08-2019, 05:13 PM

112078112079
I have three tanks bottom two into back vent and top into side vent, as you can see, bigger lines , as high as i could drill and weld and use the fuel neck from FFR.
Workers good. You still need the small vent with roll over part.

Svtfreak

08-08-2019, 08:30 PM

Thanks!

Svtfreak

08-13-2019, 02:23 PM

Piddled with fuel system more today. Waiting on 4 little fittings and a filler tube. I did get one pump wired up until I decide how to run second pump, and fuel gauge sender wired and gauge reprogrammed. No pics of any interest. Can I say, those aeromotive stealth 340 pumps are QUIET!

Curious if you ever got back to fitting the tail lights

Steve

Steve, I worked on taillights a bit and am cautiously optimistic. See the preview photo below. It ain't as flush as it looks but I think I'm on the right path. Other than an hours work to finish up fuel, I'll be tackling this next week, and once I'm sure it works, I'll post what I did.
https://i.imgur.com/2piBhEL.jpg

Svtfreak

08-21-2019, 02:18 PM

Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.
https://i.imgur.com/IJF64ef.jpg

Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.
https://i.imgur.com/xPi1BAL.jpg

Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.

FF33rod

08-21-2019, 03:21 PM

That's where I want to put my filler as well, not a problem really with the Boyd tank.

Look forward to the tail light details

Steve

Svtfreak

08-21-2019, 08:19 PM

Getting the right angles to get to the boyd inlet is kinda funky. Im not completely satisfied with this neck. I may remake it using a mandrel bent 90 and cut a slice out to get the last little bend to the cap. Dunno yet.

FF33rod

08-21-2019, 11:02 PM

I'm using this 90 degree hose from http://www.replicaparts.com/Hot%20Rod%20fuel%20filler%20hose%20page.htm
If you leave it long going into the tank it will come out to the stock location (in the trunk fill) or cutting it off brings the fill location up to the shoulder where you you have it...

Svtfreak

08-22-2019, 08:44 AM

Thanks, Steve. But since I also moved it out toward the body edge, now I have another angle to make. I tried that same 90* hose.

Taillight content!

As yall may know, I am using hagan 9" teardrop flush mounts. But they are really designed for steel. So it took some thinking how to make them work in glass. I talked to a few more knowledgeable and experienced builders before trying a blend of their advice. Mr Tim provided a ton of guidance.

First thing I did (after cutting the holes, see previous post for that) was figure where the box would go and glue in the studs for that. I used a Devon product that we use at work that's works rally well for applications like this. I roughed up thr plates and smeared it in good, applied it while the box was located and moved it around a bit to get good adherence. Then, since the box would go straight in and out on the bottom due to wheel well, I slotted the bottom slot to the end and now it goes down from the top, then goes on top stud and bolts in.

https://i.imgur.com/WwP9zik.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0wzLkf4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kLgTnYQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IFZej5m.jpg

Svtfreak

08-22-2019, 08:45 AM

Next, the big issue I had was the red lens part wasn't thick enough to go through the glass. So I trimmed the lens to have a lip all the way around then I thinned the body around the cutout so the lens sat down in it. This allowed the red lens do stick up just enough.
https://i.imgur.com/S2LV5fm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LmCSvOq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5qcZw1x.jpg

Next, I cut a piece of lexan just slightly larger than the box. The idea is the lexan, then the box is installed, will push the lens and hold it tight
https://i.imgur.com/c3vsyO1.jpg

Once all bolted in, it looks like this!
https://i.imgur.com/btqr1Da.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jpm5aNJ.jpg

It sits up just enough that I think when I do my paint, it'll be very close and require very little sanding and fitting. Then the cut and buff will make it exact. I'm doing it then because I don't want it flush now then recessed once the paint thickness is there. The tip top and very bottom, I think I'm gonna also add a dab of the epoxy putty on final assembly, just to add a little extra support since those spots are rhe farthest from the box edges. Then it'll be easily ground out right at the edge should I need to remove the lens ever.

Anyway, the concept worked! Just FYI, the other plan, which Mr Tim used, was to add another layer of the red and use the glue that hagan uses and not recess the lens. If you want an idea of another path that would work also.

Now, I'll be fixing the edges in a few spots I got too aggressive and took too much off, then moving on to drivers side. Once I get them wired up and working, I'll post some pics.

Svtfreak

08-22-2019, 10:25 AM

Well, that didn't take long at all. Edges fixed up, all installed and wired up. They work great!
Off
https://i.imgur.com/jAN2dxN.jpg

Running lights
https://i.imgur.com/IYWTHcJ.jpg

Brake lights
https://i.imgur.com/FoEvEuo.jpg

They go bright/dim or bright/off for blinkers. Exactly like the ffr lights. They come with a bright/dim module you add if needed. I thought about adding a short led strip at bottom for turn signal but I think this will work just fine. I am very pleased. (They look a little less bright than the photo on driving lights and actually a little more bright in brakes. Maybe the photo angle)