stainless or chrome quick jacks

[chopthebass]

Can anyone recommend where I can get stainless or chrome QJ's? Preferably stainless.

I got a quote for chroming mine and its crazy $$$!

[slpro1207]

I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you but I also was thinking of chrome for my quick jacks. Just out of curiosity what was your crazy $$$$ quote?

[MACK6639]

********** has them on there site.http://www.**********accessories.com/c-43-bumpers.aspx
I have them on my car. The mounting holes will have to be enlarged from 3/8 to 7/16 to fit
the mounting bolts, but that is easy to do.

Mack

[Usudno]

I received a quote locally for 65$ each if that helps...I have decided to go with the stainless from finish line.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Polished SS

[Jeff Kleiner]

Chrome prices are going to vary depending on where you are located---I've had sets of 4 done for $150. I've also used the SS from ********** on a couple of cars. As noted the holes need to be drilled and also be aware that the fronts and rears are different. If you don't realize this you might wind up with one front and one rear on the same end and then when you back away from the car you'll look at it and go "HUH???" :confused: (not that I've ever done that....;))

Jeff

[KDubU]

**********.

[boat737]

SS from **********. X2 from Jeff K.

I opened up the holes using my drill press, but be aware (or beware) that that stainless is pretty hard. Chipped the drill bit, but worse, managed to mar the surface on two of them. So I had them re-done by the polisher. Good as new.

As mentioned, they are slightly different in height. In these pics, I'm pretty sure I've got the fronts on the rear and visa versa. Since the front bolts are slightly higher on the body, I'm thinking that the taller ones go on the front. All that said, the shorter ones look just a bit better and better proportioned. The taller ones look pretty long, but that illusion may change when I swap them, and that will happen when the body comes off the next time.

In addition, I also used the beefier SS tubing with them, and shortened them from the FFR length. (See my post #15 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23865-Body-fitment-on-3-4-quot-front-frame-rails )

[chopthebass]

I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you but I also was thinking of chrome for my quick jacks. Just out of curiosity what was your crazy $$$$ quote?

My quote was $350 CAD (about 270 USD equivalent).

[chopthebass]

Boat737, whats the best way to shorten the SS tubes? I bought the beefier ones with the rubber grommets to match, but they are too long. I wonder if you can buy a blade that can go in the miter/chop saw, so I can keep the cuts square.

[CDXXVII]

Shorts jacks typically go on the front and long ones to the rear. I say mount them whichever way looks best to you.

With regards to drilling stainless. Use plenty of cutting oil and use several different size bits to work up to your final size. Heat is not your friend when drilling stainless.



SS from **********. X2 from Jeff K.

I opened up the holes using my drill press, but be aware (or beware) that that stainless is pretty hard. Chipped the drill bit, but worse, managed to mar the surface on two of them. So I had them re-done by the polisher. Good as new.

As mentioned, they are slightly different in height. In these pics, I'm pretty sure I've got the fronts on the rear and visa versa. Since the front bolts are slightly higher on the body, I'm thinking that the taller ones go on the front. All that said, the shorter ones look just a bit better and better proportioned. The taller ones look pretty long, but that illusion may change when I swap them, and that will happen when the body comes off the next time.

In addition, I also used the beefier SS tubing with them, and shortened them from the FFR length. (See my post #15 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23865-Body-fitment-on-3-4-quot-front-frame-rails )

[boat737]

Boat737, whats the best way to shorten the SS tubes? I bought the beefier ones with the rubber grommets to match, but they are too long. I wonder if you can buy a blade that can go in the miter/chop saw, so I can keep the cuts square.

I used a band saw. A cheap one, but did the job fine. It's a cheaper China made piece that can self feed or stand upright and hand feed with a little table attached. I expect if you use some sort of hand tool, squaring the ends would be necessary, probably with a bench disk sander, or bench grinder or equivalent.