JDav's MK4 #9028 Build Thread [Archive]

Jdav

01-20-2017, 10:27 AM

I ordered my kit back on December 27th during FFR's end of year sale and it is due to be complete tomorrow (1/21/17).
My order included:

MK IV complete kit
Powder coated chassis
31 spline 12.875 driveshaft
Body cut outs
Classic roadster seats
Coyote power steering kit
3-Link rear suspension
FFR Vintage gauge set
17" Halibrand wheel/tire package
Stainless exhaust
Wind wings
Sun visors
Chrome driver and passenger roll bars
Coyote installation kit
Upgraded dash with glovebox

I will be going with a Coyote engine, headers w/cats and TKO-600 from Mike Forte.
I plan to order my rear end assembly from MPS.

Other plans include
Cool It insulation
CNC Triple Reservoir
Forte's hydraulic clutch
Russ Thompson Drop Trunk
Russ Thompson Turn signal
Breeze Engine Compartment Battery Mounting Kit
Breeze radiator cowl cover, shroud and mount
CobraHeat seat heaters
Hidden USB port

Stewart will be delivering, so until then, the garage is lonely:
62998

GoDadGo

01-20-2017, 10:34 AM

Congratulations From The Dark Side!

This is truly one heck of an adventure that is about to begin!

Also, check out Edwardb's lastest build and you'll get some fantastic tips and great ideas.

Steve

Jdav

01-20-2017, 10:38 AM

Congratulations From The Dark Side!

This is truly one heck of an adventure that is about to begin!

Also, check out Edwardb's latest build and you'll get some fantastic tips and great ideas.

Steve

Thanks GoDadGo, I'm quite excited.
I have read EdwardB's build thread a couple of times and will definitely be using it for guidance, along with WarEagleScott's. I have no real automotive experience, so the support and help from all you guys will be invaluable to me.

GoDadGo

01-20-2017, 10:45 AM

I'm a first time builder too so read the book, read it again and take your time.
Do a very detailed inventory and make a copy of the inventory sheet & place copy of each sheet on the coordinating box to find your parts.
Reach out to the guys on this forum who have done at least a few builds and all will be right with the world.
Here is where I am so if I can do it, then so can you:

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

wareaglescott

01-20-2017, 11:44 AM

Hey Joel. Garage is looking good and I am excited to see you get going. (I am secretly hoping for a better avatar on this site! haha)

Hey when you order your transmission from Mike ask him about the speedo plug that goes in the side of it. Pictured in my thread post 128. You will plug that hole since you are using the GPS speedo. It comes with a rubber shipping plug in it but that will eventually fall out and you would lose your fluid. I did not know that was needed at the time I ordered and ended up having to pay separate S&H. Not Mike's fault because he did not know I would be plugging that hole so he may not think to offer it to you.

Jdav

01-20-2017, 11:49 AM

Jdav

01-22-2017, 08:50 AM

Straversi

01-22-2017, 02:55 PM

Welcome to the party.
Prior to this build my MO had been: Start, Apply force, apply more force, apply more force and WD-40, look for instructions..
With this project I have learned to: Read instructions twice and not just the page I'm working on. Make a plan. Read several forum articles. Begin, re-read the forum posts, apply a little assembly lube or emery cloth, add a little force, go back to the forum and ask for help.

Have fun.

-Steve

Jazzman

01-22-2017, 03:39 PM

Speaking of my small garage, it is not big enough to store the body while I build the car, so it is going to the back yard.
The gate to the back yard Is not wide enough to get the body through in its natural position, so I was planning on tilting it on its side to get through and then back to horizontal to store on a buck.
Any concerns with this twisting action and any recommendations on support pieces to have (or not have) on the body while moving it?

Thanks

None whatsoever. I have done exactly this multiple times. The body is quite strong. Don't bother covering the body on the buck. the sunlight and heat help cure the resin.

I advise inviting a half a dozen teenagers over to help you move the body around. It has worked well for me!! If possible, invite a couple of them that are over 6'6" tall. That also was big help for me. Promise rides when done, and pizza currently.

Jdav

01-24-2017, 01:57 PM

I got the call today from Stewart that my baby is on the truck and on its way to me (after a stop in Wisconsin).
Hope to have it in my possession on Sunday!

Jdav

01-29-2017, 09:02 PM

The driver was delayed one day, but scheduled to drop it off with me tomorrow.
I used the extra time to give the garage a little love. I figure I'll be spending a lot in there, so replaced the old crappy window, added a new led shoplight and painted the walls.
63375

Jdav

02-04-2017, 10:38 PM

Week 1 is almost in the books.
My kit was delivered on Monday afternoon with a little drama. I live on a fairly busy street and in my phone calls with the Stewart driver, he indicated that wouldn't be an issue. However once he arrived, it was. I had to quickly get a flatbed tow truck out to a nearby parking lot so we could unload fro the trailer onto the tow truck and then from the tow truck into my garage. Additionally, I got called back into work, so luckily my amazing fiancée and my parents were able to handle most of the process.
63619
63620

But at the end of the day, it was in my possession and I was happy.
I've mentioned before that I will be building out of a small 1 car garage (10x18) so I was pleased that all of the boxes fit.
63621

I did inventory the rest of the nights this week. After reading several posts where people found a lot of missing or incorrect parts, I was pleased to find I was only missing one set of 5 screws, a lock nut and a washer. Additionally, my back order list wasn't too long and a box with about half of those items showed up Thursday.
I moved several boxes up to my attic to get some room to actually work. I need to find a place to store my wheels and tires, but I think I should be able to make this space work well.
63622

Today, I was able to get a few helping hands to get the body off and onto the buck. I also started marking, drilling and removing the aluminum that was mounted to the chassis for shipping.
63623

I'll be doing more of the same tomorrow before watching the Super Bowl. Go Falcons #RiseUp

Jdav

02-05-2017, 08:18 AM

wareaglescott

02-05-2017, 08:31 AM

On the rear cockpit wall aluminum, should the slots for the harness be completely above the rail?
When the bottom of the piece is flush with the cockpit floor, the slots are partially covered by the frame rail that is behind it. Do I need to adjust somehow? And if so, how?
63630
63631

Mine sits a little higher that that. The rail is just a tiny bit above even with the bottom of the opening. Carpeted it and got the edge guard around the opening and the seatbelt through just fine though.

Straversi

02-06-2017, 10:58 AM

That looks pretty close. It is not supposed to be flush. FFR has a chassis in R&D. You can send them a marked up photo and ask for a measurement. Sometimes easier than looking at forum photos. As far as adjustments, you can cut the bottom flange off and then make an angle to re attach it at an adjusted height. It's all covered with carpet later. I had to adjust one side as mine was uneven. It probably wouldn't have mattered but it was an easy fix.
-Steve

Jdav

02-06-2017, 11:08 AM

I finished removing and drilling all of the pre-installed aluminum yesterday. She looks naked!
63720
I am just using rust-oleum rattle can (dark steel (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Universal-11-oz-All-Surface-Metallic-Dark-Steel-Spray-Paint-and-Primer-in-One-262662/205314080)) to paint the aluminum pieces. As such, I haven't fit all of the shipped aluminum panels. I was just going to fit/drill/paint as I go.

I ordered my rear end today from MPS (http://www.mpsautosalvage.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3597).
It should get built this week. Luckily I live about an hour from them, so I can go pick it up, rather than having to pay for shipping.
I'll get started on the front suspension tonight!

Jdav

02-06-2017, 11:12 AM

Mine sits a little higher that that. The rail is just a tiny bit above even with the bottom of the opening. Carpeted it and got the edge guard around the opening and the seatbelt through just fine though.

That looks pretty close. It is not supposed to be flush. FFR has a chassis in R&D. You can send them a marked up photo and ask for a measurement. Sometimes easier than looking at forum photos. As far as adjustments, you can cut the bottom flange off and then make an angle to re attach it at an adjusted height. It's all covered with carpet later. I had to adjust one side as mine was uneven. It probably wouldn't have mattered but it was an easy fix.
-Steve

Thanks guys. I'll run with it as is for now and address later if there ends up being any issues.

Jdav

02-06-2017, 07:40 PM

Issue #1.
On my driver side the mount for the forward part of the front lower control arm is too narrow.
The rear part fits and the passenger side both fit fine. Any ideas?
63739

Jdav

02-06-2017, 09:00 PM

Issue #1.
On my driver side the mount for the forward part of the front lower control arm is too narrow.
The rear part fits and the passenger side both fit fine. Any ideas?
63739

A little brute force got it in.
63744

Jeff Kleiner

02-06-2017, 09:42 PM

Jdav

02-06-2017, 11:04 PM

You said "the rear part fits"---looking at your photo I can't see if you added the shim washer in the rear mount. You're supposed to.

What I can see is that you installed the arm in a semi-upside down orientation (is that even a word??? :)). Your ball joint plate is pointed correctly but the crossbar pivots should be like the photo below, with the grease fittings facing up:

http://i.imgur.com/0sEVK1s.jpg

Easiest fix would be to unbolt them from the adjuster clevis and crossbar and flip them around.

Good luck!

Jeff
Thanks Jeff.
Yes, I have the spacer in the rear mount. I used a spacer in both front and rear mounts on the passenger side. There was a washer sized gap in the front on that side so I figured I should. Would that be an issue?

Thanks for pointing out the semi-upside donwness of the upper arm (definitely a word). I will flip it tomorrow.

Jdav

02-07-2017, 11:57 AM

Upper arm disassembled, flipped and reassembled and installed.
Look better Jeff?
63782

Jdav

02-07-2017, 12:48 PM

A few of my back ordered items came in today, including my vintage gauges. As someone else noted recently, mine have the built in turn signal and high beam indicators. Really pleased about that unexpected upgrade.
63783

Dumb question of the day: what is my FFR #? On the name plate there is a longer number - does everyone just refer to the last 4 digits?

wareaglescott

02-07-2017, 03:50 PM

Yes the 4 digits. Mine is 8900. I would suspect yours is between 9000-9100.
What is it?

Jeff Kleiner

02-07-2017, 04:06 PM

Look better Jeff?

Yep!

Jeff

Jdav

02-07-2017, 04:52 PM

Yes the 4 digits. Mine is 8900. I would suspect yours is between 9000-9100.
What is it?

#9028

Jdav

02-12-2017, 07:37 PM

I was a little under the weather this week, so with that, plus waiting on a few back ordered parts, I didn't get as much done as I would have liked.
I did pick up my rear end yesterday - I am doing the 3-link with solid rear axel. MPS is only 45 minutes from me, so happy to save those shipping fees.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gowVpLIMoIH1WXHmJMN740Cg9gf_tWqtJ8Bu6dgz-flMAKhxRP7skXeRYk99J3QsK67sXkdVdzFjpt7mkqP8DZX0nNk NYDrObPdaNnEj34UzXBIQhqOkCRekyCiehlcKCFgLZOo
My parents came over today to help with the rear end install. It was one of those days (and I'm sure there will be many more) where everything took much longer than it should and things seemed to not quite fit.
First was adding the oil to the differential cover was stuck on pretty good. A quick search on the forum suggested a putty knife to pry it up, and that worked well.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/394F12F2-3F51-4381-A452-999BF2F2AA6D_zpsirjrj2av.jpg
The traction lock brackets also confounded me for a bit. Until I realized that there was a piece on the axel that I needed to remove and then it fit perfect.
The upper link mounting bracket posed some challenges as well - the brackets didn't seem to quite line up and the hole on the pumpkin flange needed to be redrilled.
I did get everything put together, but wasn't able to get it mounted to the chassis.
My assistant was not strong enough to help lift the axel in place
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/D310ED3C-7D6B-4A06-8ACC-85695055784F_zpsqpzxyecb.jpg

GoDadGo

02-12-2017, 08:08 PM

Man That Is One Very Ferocious Guard Dog!

cnutting

02-12-2017, 08:41 PM

Dave Howard

02-12-2017, 08:48 PM

Mine sits a little higher that that. The rail is just a tiny bit above even with the bottom of the opening. Carpeted it and got the edge guard around the opening and the seatbelt through just fine though.

If you are installing "edgeguards" around the opening, you may want to move the slot to the centre of the panel by 1/2". I found my "edgeguards" made contact with the rolled back edge of the body, an I had to tuck in under a little.

Jdav

02-13-2017, 09:41 AM

Is the banana bracket just bolted on? If so, you may want to consider welding it to the axle (after removing the powdercoat first). At the suggestion of others, I welded mine to prevent rotation under load.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53496&d=1462234244

After welding, I touched it all up with POR-15.

I was just bolting it in per the instructions - I don't have welding equipment at home and would need to send it out to weld. It seems with the clamp bolts and the connection to the flange that it shouldn't go anywhere - for a non-track car do you think that is really necessary?

Ducky2009

02-13-2017, 11:36 AM

cnutting

02-13-2017, 12:39 PM

Jdav
Mine is non-track as well, but I decided to do it anyway. The bar to the flange will most likely not hold if there is rotation. I had a welder that did house calls do the job for a reasonable fee. If you choose not to weld, at minimum I would remove all powdercoat from the ID of the brackets and the OD of the axle where they touch to get metal to metal contact.

Ducky
As far as the e-brake goes, mine was run per the instructions. I got everything from FFR and it went together without issue (knock on wood...). I don't have any pictures of this, sorry...

Chris

Jeff Kleiner

02-13-2017, 02:59 PM

cnutting,
Looking at your pic, I noticed your brake calipers are on the front side of the axle. Jdav's calipers are behind the axle (same as mine. I purchased from MPS, same as jdav). My emergency brake cables will go forward from the calipers. Have you fit your emergency cables yet? Do you have a pic of the cable routing? And part numbers.
Thx
David

I generally swap the calipers to the front side of the axle to allow for a simpler parking brake cable routing; when done this way they'll make a gentle sweeping "U" rather than an "S".

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1882.jpg

This allows you to secure the cables by routing them through the unused UCA mounting "ears" on the center section. I use tapered rubber stoppers of the proper diameter with a hole drilled in the center for the cables to pass through and then held in place with black silicone:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1874.jpg

Cheers,
Jeff

cnutting

02-13-2017, 04:49 PM

^^
And... That's how I did mine as well, as Jeff suggested.

Ducky2009

02-13-2017, 05:08 PM

Thanks Jeff. What cables did you use? I haven't purchased the cables yet. My kit is due for delivery on Friday. I was going to install the rearend and measure the needed length before purchasing incorrect parts.
Thx,
David

Jdav

02-13-2017, 09:17 PM

So I was going to move the calipers to the front, but there is another bracket welded to the axle that looks like it would prevent that. Am I thinking about this wrong?
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/B6CA361C-0CF9-43C6-8ED4-D9815D15A961_zpsmgtpafeu.jpg

Jeff Kleiner

02-13-2017, 09:40 PM

Joel,
Got your text message and was going to send you a PM (lots easier to type on a real keyboard rather than pecking away on the phone) but since you posted the same question here...

The bracket you show is for the quad shocks in the Mustang. Unused for our purposes and I always cut them off if for no other reason than to clean up the rearend and eliminate unneeded "stuff" but you can leave 'em if you like. From your photo I see that you have all of the OEM hardlines and hoses (even the dust shields!) installed. This isn't usually the case and this hardware doesn't lend itself to easily swapping the calipers so with that in mind I'd keep the calipers as-is. In my opinion it wouldn't be worth the hassle of reworking all the brake lines to simplify the parking brake cables---one of those lesser of two evils deals :)

Cheers,
Jeff

Ducky2009

02-14-2017, 06:19 PM

Jeff, What emergency cables did you use? I was going to check the needed length after the rear end is installed.
Just got the call. My kit will be delivered on Friday!
Thx
David
PS: How do you add the text at the bottom of your message. (MK3 #......, etc...)

Jeff Kleiner

02-14-2017, 08:25 PM

Most times I use SN95 cables and then cut them to length.

The text can be added by going to your user profile and putting it in as your signature.

Jeff

Ducky2009

02-15-2017, 06:20 PM

Jeff,
The cables have swage ends. How do you attach to ebrake handle without them?
Thx,
David.

Jeff Kleiner

02-15-2017, 06:47 PM

Here's a copy and paste from a post in which I decribed it:

**********************************************
I thought I had a few more pics but this is the best I could come up with. Hopefully my description of the process will help. Begin by determining how long you want the sheath to be. You then need to cut the ferrule, or stop, off of the end of the cable so that you can pull it out of the sheath. A cutoff wheel in a Dremel works well for making a clean, unfrayed cut. When looking at the sheath you'll see that the forward end (on the right in this pic) has a hex shape.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1865.jpg

Clamp the cable sheath softly in a vice and turn the end off. Cut back the outer vinyl coating to the length previously determined and strip it to expose the inner coiled steel jacket.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1872.jpg

Again using the Dremel with a cutoff wheel cut the jacket back to length. Now you can thread the end back on. You'll need to apply pressure while turning it.

Next step is to feed the cable back in then mock up the cable/sheath to determine the length needed for the inner cable. Take it all back out, cut the cable to length, strip the cable's vinyl coating back to expose steel braid where the new ferrule/stop will go and crimp it on (I use "wire rope ferrules" from Lowes, HD, True Value, etc.) That's it---you now have a custom length parking brake cable!

Cheers,
Jeff

awd-turbo

02-15-2017, 06:58 PM

Nice write up

japollon

02-15-2017, 07:04 PM

Hi Jeff,

What vendor supplies the SN95 ebrake cables? Where did you source the rubber grommets that you stuck into the unused upper control arm ears for the cable routing?

Joel

Jeff Kleiner

02-15-2017, 07:35 PM

Cables come from any parts store; walk into NAPA, Autozone or whatever and tell 'em you want cables for a '95 Mustang (they'll ask you left or right but if you're going to cut 'em anyway it doesn't matter).

Tapered rubber stoppers are another corner hardware store item.

This stuff really isn't hard to find fellers...have fun shopping ;)

Jeff

Ducky2009

02-16-2017, 11:31 AM

Thanks Jeff. I think of cable ends being hydraulically swaged on. Never thought something hand installed (with a hand swaging tool) would hold.
Thx,
David

Jdav

02-16-2017, 01:36 PM

Thanks Jeff. I think of cable ends being hydraulically swaged on. Never thought something hand installed (with a hand swaging tool) would hold.
Thx,
David

MPS provided e brake cables with mine (it was listed online as included, but I had to ask for them), so you may want to follow up with them since thats where you bought yours too. I havent fit them in yet to know if any alteration is needed.

Ducky2009

02-16-2017, 05:49 PM

Thanks, I didn't know MPS included included them. I picked them up, along with a hydroboost. Delivery is TOMORROW.

Jdav

02-16-2017, 07:30 PM

E brake cable question: I assume the e brake cable mounts to #1, but does it also go through #2?
If so, how does it fit through?
For reference, this pic is taken from the rear looking into the cockpit
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/1BE03BD8-032D-40B0-96D0-FA720C04D38F_zps1znsbgxn.jpg

Ducky2009

02-17-2017, 09:44 AM

#2 is for the e-brake. #1 is not. I have the PDF version of the manual. Look on page 258, two pics. It shows the routing of the cables from bracket #2, under the 4" frame tube and to the handle (past bracket #1). If you don't like the cables running under the frame tube, "Edwardb" has a post of how he routed with a pulley over the frame rail. I'll look it up and forward to you later. My kit is due here is 30 minutes.

Ducky2009

02-17-2017, 09:56 AM

See pic at http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg
He later added a second pulley, one for each cable

Jdav

02-17-2017, 11:24 AM

Per Ducky's suggestion, I flipped ahead in the manual to the parking brake handle section (I was on the rear end install where it says to install the cables, but has less description). On page 258, it says:
87-92 Mustang cables or the FFR cables mount to the bracket up near the 2”x 3” tube.
93-04 Mustang cables mount to the bracket near the handle.

My brakes are 94 - 04 Cobra rear disc brakes. I know EdwardB and Scott have the Wilwoods, and used #2 with EdwardB's pulley mod. But with the Cobra brakes, should I use #1?

Jeff Kleiner

02-17-2017, 07:30 PM

There are photos and text in posts #14 & 15 of my "indy 14" build thread linked below which shows the routing under the round tube with the cables in position #2.

Jeff

Jdav

02-18-2017, 06:21 PM

My biggest struggle so far has been getting the spacers in various places. They all seem to be just a touch too big. Any tricks?

Ducky2009

02-18-2017, 08:26 PM

Another idea for the e-brake cable issue.... Cutting the cables and adding new ends. Carlewms Post # 154 used a bracket with set screws. Lokar Performance Parts. Not sure of the cost.https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df22b3127cceeb52e753cf8d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160103101301858.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

wareaglescott

02-18-2017, 09:27 PM

cnutting

02-18-2017, 09:33 PM

My biggest struggle so far has been getting the spacers in various places. They all seem to be just a touch too big. Any tricks?

Same as Wareaglescott; I ground them to size and chamfered the IDs and ODs. Took a couple iterations until everything moved smoothly.

Jdav

02-18-2017, 11:08 PM

What are you using to grind them down with?

wareaglescott

02-19-2017, 07:24 AM

What are you using to grind them down with?

I have a bench grinder.
Never used it before this project but I have used it tons for the build.

Jdav

02-21-2017, 07:31 AM

3 weeks in:
I was able to get the front and rear suspension in and finished up as my back ordered shock collars finally arrived (I'm now only waiting on the power steering rack, harnesses and lug nuts). I did grind down some of the spacers to get them to fit. Instead of dropping more cash on a bench grinder, I just got a grinding disc for my dremel. It may take a little longer, but it works.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/C86FA105-0E0F-4445-A2F8-A4C7B9586837_zpsjwoyb6ih.jpg

I wasn't able to get the full 95 ft-lbs of torque on the upper caliper bolt (front wheels) - it's tight, but started to slip/strip as I put more torque on. Thoughts?

I also ordered my hydraulic clutch, fuel pump and seat heaters from Forte. I plan to get the insulation on the front foot box and get the pedal box built and installed this week.

Jdav

02-25-2017, 12:00 PM

I'm installing my pedal box and want to make sure I'm not missing something.
I have the wilwood pedal box, but I am not having any interference with the clutch pedal and the frame.
I know this is a good thing, but since I see everyone notching the pedal or making a frame mod, I want to make sure I didn't do something wrong.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/BC37D7A1-031E-44A0-AFCB-BD558A0831C5_zpsap2a914h.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/67E008B2-759D-4621-8305-7EB3C89AA436_zpshbynl2em.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/2E268535-D361-4951-BABD-0664F0084A70_zpsdv6ij1pm.jpg

Jdav

02-25-2017, 09:51 PM

I went ahead with the pedal box install and so far so good. I don't know if a tweak was made to the kit to alleviate the issue or if the stars just aligned for me.
I also was able to torque all the caliper bolts. I had to make a trip to Home Depot for a 12mm 12 point socket plus an extension, but then it was all good.

Ducky2009

02-25-2017, 10:57 PM

You're good to go. Design change June 2016. Not a interference problem any more.

Jdav

03-03-2017, 08:09 PM

The e brake handle is confusing me. It seems like the clevis will hit the nut from the rear mounting bolt.
Am I doing something wrong? Or is this not an issue?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3bhqhMHyf4&feature=share

wareaglescott

03-03-2017, 08:41 PM

Jdav

03-03-2017, 08:49 PM

Are you using holes #1 or #2 from your picture in post 49?
Jeff seemed to indicate in post 53 you could use #2....If that is the case then the cables come under the tube and once it is taught it keeps the cable operating fine without the interference you are concerned about.
Unless you possibly have the handle mounted wrong. Could not really see that detail in the video.
I am going to use hole #2 and EdwardB,s pulley mod. Maybe the angle keeps it from interfering and since the movement is forward it's ok?
Or maybe I flip that nut to the top?

Ducky2009

03-03-2017, 09:17 PM

Jdav, Install the rear mount bolt with the rounded head down and the nut on the top side. Reduces the interference. Also: I found the rear braided brake lines (axle to frame) at Summit. 16" long P/N 657340 $25.97 each. 18" P/N 657350 $26.97 each

Jdav

03-05-2017, 09:19 PM

Almost 5 weeks in.
I'm pausing on the e brake because I just can't find a solution that I'm happy with. I'll come back later and revisit.
I did get all of the passenger footbox insulated and clecoed in. I'll come back and rivet shortly.
I also installed the fuel tank, level sender and inline pump. I did Kleiner's quick jack mod to avoid dropping the tank later. I mounted the fuel filter and ran lines and also bent my hard fuel lines. I need to pick up some sealant for the connections and then I'll be able to attach to the chassis.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/CA2ED38B-5A85-4195-8CCB-1A6F861E3412_zpsna2tv0hc.jpg
I also temporarily installed my master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch. Since I'm running a coyote, I'll have 2 clutch switches and planned on following EdwardB's mount plan for the bottom switch. But since I haven't ordered the coyote control pack yet, I don't have the switch to ensure the proper dimensions and I'll have to come back to do final fitment.

So, I guess it's been a productive week.
I also attended Caffeine and Octane this morning. I was able to meet Ducky2009 in person and Joe Camrie had his challenge car there (along with some other amazing vehicles).
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/0F063C8A-0B5D-46B9-86FD-0FC87D7D1B7E_zpsfnf7tc0z.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/F0E362AC-C63D-4ABE-AACD-18A0D6360E28_zpsmldehxws.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/B78F9491-6558-465D-8187-37D139355AAE_zpsbwvdqso5.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/B988D909-E6B8-42F4-85D5-9CBD45BCC820_zpsvo8ghjtd.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/A51C686A-A928-47A0-B4BD-684A954F4AD3_zpsz82x7imm.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/CA6DF63E-C61B-4A06-81B2-C49652D3654F_zpsrloct8sk.jpg

Jdav

03-11-2017, 12:08 PM

The hard brake lines were pre installed on my rear axle. There is a flexible line that connects the hard line in a t and this is the fitting on the opposite side (that I need to connect my hard lines to).
Any idea what fitting I need for this?
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/7C0B8E5D-3777-4BF9-A820-E75AD1B572B6_zpsyqmy6rdh.jpg

Jeff Kleiner

03-11-2017, 03:34 PM

In the Mustang that hose joins a fitting which is shown in it's mounting bracket in the photo below. The flared hard line attaches to the top and the square end on the flex hose banjo bolts from below. The fitting is clipped to the bracket.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4705/441/24260220160_large.jpg

Now the not so good news...I have never found any source for either the fitting or mount other than by harvesting them from a donor car. Unless someone has found an aftermarket supplier you'll probably need to go back to MPS.

Jeff

Jdav

03-11-2017, 07:20 PM

Thanks Jeff. Instead, could I just get a new t-fitting and attach using more standard connections?
I am assuming that there needs to be a flexible line between the chassis hard lines and the axel hard lines, but correct me if I'm wrong

Jeff Kleiner

03-11-2017, 07:22 PM

Yes and yes

Jeff

Ducky2009

03-11-2017, 07:34 PM

Jdav,
I have the Mustang fitting, if you want it you can have it. I also have the drop trunk for you. Call me tomorrow when you get a chance.
David

myjones

03-11-2017, 10:38 PM

I was just bolting it in per the instructions - I don't have welding equipment at home and would need to send it out to weld. It seems with the clamp bolts and the connection to the flange that it shouldn't go anywhere - for a non-track car do you think that is really necessary?

There is a bracket that will bolt on to the banana bracket where the link mounts to it and brace that down to the housing ear for a 4 link . It will take that rotational load to the pumpkin and prevent the need for any welding.
Jeff
jump in here with the name of that brace??
I think it is made by VPM
DB

Jdav

03-12-2017, 09:34 PM

6 weeks in.
I routed and attached my fuel lines and most of my brake lines. I still need to make the connection to the rear axel.
I also got my new lokar e brake lines in, but need to modify the handle lever to remove interference with the mounting bracket.
Riveted in the passenger aluminum and have it all insulated.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/6746FDC5-248E-4A0F-A9A8-707B85472335_zpsymigcugm.jpg
I received my final back ordered parts from FFR - power steering rack and lug nuts, however, the lines on the rack were kinked so they are sending a replacement.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/3C46C489-3EF5-43FC-9350-28F0227747AE_zps1bmxtwho.jpg
I'm out of town next week for work, so I won't make much progress.

Jdav

03-21-2017, 08:57 PM

7 weeks in
I was out of town most of the week, so I really only worked on the car on Saturday and Sunday.
I received my replacement steering rack so I got that installed. I added the offset bushings from breeze - I'm not sure how much they help and I couldn't really get much adjustment out of them.

I also fabricated a new e brake lever like Carlewms did. I tested it and still need to cut a bit off the end and drill my mounting hole, but I'm happy with it. It's the first piece I've fabricated so while it's not perfect, I'm proud.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/550EACC6-E30C-4EFC-9DE1-708BA02CEB79_zpsbt9ou1zh.jpg

I stopped by Ducky2009's house. He was nice enough to make up a drop trunk kit and coyote hydraulic clutch bottom switch mount for me. As many have said before, the guys who are on this adventure together really are so nice and giving of time, skills and expertise.

Jdav

03-24-2017, 10:27 PM

I'm having difficulty tightening the lock nut on one of my tie rods. It threads on about an 1/8th of an inch an then the entire stud rotates instead of just the nut. Any ideas ?

wareaglescott

03-25-2017, 04:58 AM

I'm having difficulty tightening the lock nut on one of my tie rods. It threads on about an 1/8th of an inch an then the entire stud rotates instead of just the nut. Any ideas ?

Fine vs coarse thread??
You sure it is the correct nut?

Jeff Kleiner

03-25-2017, 05:50 AM

I'm having difficulty tightening the lock nut on one of my tie rods. It threads on about an 1/8th of an inch an then the entire stud rotates instead of just the nut. Any ideas ?

Give it a good whack or two to seat the tapered stud into the steering arm and that should provide enough resistance to keep it from spinning.

Jeff

Jdav

03-25-2017, 07:33 AM

Fine vs coarse thread??
You sure it is the correct nut?

It's possible I mixed up my nuts. It looks to be a 3/4 in coarse thread nylon lock nut. Is that what it should be?

wareaglescott

03-25-2017, 07:41 AM

It's possible I mixed up my nuts. It looks to be a 3/4 in coarse thread nylon lock nut. Is that what it should be?

Not sure without my car here to look at.
I'm sure Jeff's suggestion is probably much better advice. I was just taking a guess.

Jeff Kleiner

03-25-2017, 10:26 AM

Tapered end of the tie rods should be 1/2"-20 fine thread.

Jeff

Jdav

03-25-2017, 07:37 PM

Tapered end of the tie rods should be 1/2"-20 fine thread.

Jeff

Yep. That's my problem, I definitely have a coarse one. No luck finding it in my boxes and also struck out at the hardware store. I guess I'll have to order one.
Thanks for helping me figure out the problem

Railroad

03-26-2017, 12:53 PM

Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, should have it, hate to see you order and pay more shipping than the cost of the parts. Good luck,

Jdav

03-28-2017, 01:21 PM

Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, should have it, hate to see you order and pay more shipping than the cost of the parts. Good luck,

I was able to pick one up at Lowe's today. Oddly, the Home Depot right by my house (where I tried first) did not stock them. Very happy to pay $1.47 rather than 10x that in shipping.

Jdav

04-03-2017, 02:11 PM

9 Weeks In (I guess I missed my 8 Week update)
I've gotten a lot of little things done like plumbing my reservoirs starting to bleed the MC and brakes, fitting the drop trunk and installing some of the driver side aluminum.
Wiring will be next.
Bleeding the rear brakes has not been as easy as I expected. I did discover a leak, but I'm not getting fluid to he calipers. It might just be that it takes longer than I expected (I've never bled brakes before). I know it's out of order, but I did the fronts after not seeing any fluid on the tears for a while (just to make sure I was doing it right). I re bench bleed the rear MC, so hopefully now it'll go more smoothly.

That will all have to wait, as we had a storm roll through this morning and I'm dealing with this:
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/B5F70497-A2E2-42B0-AB4D-63A6AEF8AA3A_zpsq35vqdgd.jpg
Luckily no one was hurt (and the garage is safe), but I have no power and no way to get in and out of the driveway.

Royteamcobra

04-05-2017, 01:11 AM

What did you end up doing with the rear brake connection? I have the same rearend as you and took the T connection off the bracket on the rearend, and replaced it with a three female T. Then got a new hose 20" long with a male connection on one end and female on the other but still figuring how to mount that connection to the chassis. Did you come up with a good solution?
Randy

Jdav

04-05-2017, 08:26 AM

I was able to get the Mustang fitting that Jeff noted in post 70 (Ducky had one from MPS and then MPS sent me the proper bolt).
I then fabbed a simple bracket to attach that fitting to the bottom of the triangle support piece of the upper trunk floor. Sorry, I dont have any pics.

Jdav

04-11-2017, 02:52 PM

10 weeks in
I was out of the country for most of the week, so very little progress, but after finishing bleeding the brakes, I put the wheels and tires on. Now it actually looks like a car!
I also started on the electrical.
Overall, I'm moving quicker than expected. That is both good and bad. Good in that I haven't experienced too many setbacks or problems, but bad in that I will need my engine and transmission very soon in order to continue. I had thought that I wouldn't need it until the fall, so I don't yet have the money saved up to purchase it. We'll see how long I can sit on hold before I whip out the credit card...
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/B8422C9D-3A1A-44D1-B73E-A33423BDA337_zpsr8lxhm9l.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/A536F925-5DA4-43EF-A0EB-80CDBCFBBBBB_zpsgaxyxa2q.jpg

wareaglescott

04-11-2017, 03:15 PM

Looks good Joel. I like the supervisor in the 2nd picture. Looks like he has a real nose for quality control!

You do realize the longer you wait to order the motor the more extra items you will come across and convince yourself you must buy! Probably cheaper just to order it today! haha

cardnation

04-12-2017, 06:36 PM

Build is coming along nicely.

Is that the FFR power steering rack? What power steering setup are planning to use with the coyote?

Jdav

04-13-2017, 08:40 AM

Build is coming along nicely.

Is that the FFR power steering rack? What power steering setup are planning to use with the coyote?

Yes, I ordered the complete power steering system from FFR

Dave22

04-15-2017, 01:17 PM

Jdav,
I have the Mustang fitting, if you want it you can have it. I also have the drop trunk for you. Call me tomorrow when you get a chance.
David

Hello, If nobody wants that fitting, I will take it off your hands.
Dave

Jdav

04-15-2017, 07:44 PM

Hello, If nobody wants that fitting, I will take it off your hands.
Dave

Sorry Dave, I already got it from Ducky and am using it

Jdav

04-17-2017, 09:04 AM

11 Weeks In
I did some additional wiring and installed the trunk aluminum and the rear cockpit aluminum.
When running the rear harness, I had a couple of tweaks I had to make versus how it is described in the instructions. First, I had to split out the fuel level sending wires earlier than how the harness came as there was not enough slack to connect to the fuel level sender plug and the fuel pump plug. Second, since I am doing a drop trunk, i had to shift the entire harness closer to the passenger side. I believe that I should still have plenty of wirer for the driver's side lights. I also ran the license plate wires between the inner and outer trunk aluminum and ground out a hole for it to exit right below the trunk hoop - that seemed like the most logical and clean way to route.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/59682FF1-19D7-4236-B667-E863BC3F728D_zpswfdrenz9.jpg

Jdav

04-30-2017, 06:57 PM

13 weeks in
Progress has slowed over the past 2 weeks as I've been extra busy at work and I am running out of things I can do before I need my engine/trans. I still have not ordered those.
I have done a bit more wiring. I bought 2 LED strips (one for each footwell) and attached them. I am using the supplied led strip for the trunk so I also ran a new lead wire back there through the rear harness. I'm following edwardb's lead and using a magnetic switch (on order from amazon) to activate it. I also added the seat heater pads to one of my seats.

jdavis500

05-05-2017, 02:01 PM

Jdav

05-05-2017, 04:54 PM

Checking in from Cobb County here. Enjoying your build thread. Looks like we may have similar names based on the member id. I wanted to check in on your tag/title plan. I assume you are from one of the 13 counties. Is this a concern for you? I am planning a Daytona build and I am a little nervous about this.

James

My dads name is actually James (you arent my dad, are you....).
I have done research on tag/title and frankly its confusing and vague. Best case scenario seems to be to not title it and register/tag it as a 65, thus being exempt from emissions - it seems many have done that before and its just a matter of getting the right person in the tag office. I dont really want to think of the worst case scenario. Ducky2009 is also in the same boat, and is aiming to start the registration process before me.

wareaglescott

05-05-2017, 05:32 PM

Did you see this Joel?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22109-How-to-register-a-kit-car-in-Georgia

Ducky2009

05-05-2017, 06:13 PM

Jdav, I have property in Walton county where emissions is not required. I want a title, so if I decide to sell, I can no matter what state.

jdavis500

05-06-2017, 02:43 PM

I believe if there is will, there is a way. This may be a novice talking, but is it possible to have a separate exhaust system that is installed for the sake of passing emmissions and then swap out each year? What would be needed, cat and muffler? "Hindsight" suggests registering as an antique/hobby car and forego title. May cause issues when time to sell, but not sure I will be selling this one anytime soon.

Not your dad.

Jdav

05-06-2017, 05:00 PM

jdavis500

05-08-2017, 04:32 PM

Jdav

05-08-2017, 05:35 PM

Jdav,

Hey, it was great to meet you on Saturday. Thanks for letting me ask so many questions. May I ask what made you go with the coyote and why cats? The plan is hopefully to not be required to pass emissions. The coyote seems a little more technically challenging to install?

James

Nice meeting you as well.
I originally planned on adding cats to try to pass emissions, but subsequently found out that the control pack doesn't have the proper emissions control software so cats wouldn't help - I no longer plan to add them.
I chose coyote mainly to have a reliable "turn the key and go" experience once it's built. It will be a bit more work to set up, but after than I shouldn't have to do too much maintenance. And with great build threads like edwardb's, there is a pretty clear path on making the coyote work.

edwardb

05-08-2017, 08:15 PM

The crate coyote does not have any emission control systems, so it's pretty much impossible from that perspective.

May I ask what made you go with the coyote and why cats? The plan is hopefully to not be required to pass emissions. The coyote seems a little more technically challenging to install? James

I originally planned on adding cats to try to pass emissions, but subsequently found out that the control pack doesn't have the proper emissions control software so cats wouldn't help - I no longer plan to add them. I chose coyote mainly to have a reliable "turn the key and go" experience once it's built. It will be a bit more work to set up, but after than I shouldn't have to do too much maintenance. And with great build threads like edwardb's, there is a pretty clear path on making the coyote work.

Couple of comments about these statements. While the crate Coyote without cats is missing some of the elements Ford installs on their production vehicles, it still has extensive emission control systems. It's a full-up modern computer controlled engine that's monitoring the combustion process and keeping it within a very narrow window. If you plumb the EGR using the "strict" guidelines in the FF instructions, that too becomes part of the emission controls. Granted I'm still at very low mileage with mine, but I'm amazed how clean it runs. Essentially zero exhaust smell. The inside of the pipe tips are still shiny like new. I can drive it into the garage and immediately shut the door with zero smell. For my carb'd SBF's, I usually left the door open for a while to let things air out. Without cats, the Coyote isn't going to pass a current model year emissions test. That part is true. But it's still a very clean running engine.

Speaking of cats, I have read where some guys have installed them. They work but a couple challenges. First is the actual exhaust plumbing. You're probably looking at something custom. I read where Mike Forte was prototyping a Coyote setup with cats. But haven't heard if that was completed, available, etc. Might be something to check. Second, a production Coyote has wideband O2 sensors before the cats that are used to manage the combustion. Then another pair after the cats to confirm all is working properly. The crate Coyote has the first set, but not the set after the cats. Those are deleted from the custom program Ford delivers with the crate version and there are no wires to hook them up. You could still run the cats without the rear O2 sensors, which I assume is what people are doing who have installed them. They would still work. Just not provide feedback to the PCM without other changes that could get pretty complicated.

As far as whether the Coyote is more technically challenging, that's kind of a mixed answer. I will admit to feeling that way as well before diving into mine. For me, now that I've been through it, kind of a "pay me now or pay me later" situation. Yes it's a little more work to install. If you're comfortable with electrical wiring, it's not hard. Just more of it. For those who are not comfortable with wiring, maybe a little daunting. But you're not on your own. There are lots of instructions and build threads (including mine, thanks for the shout out) that detail ways to approach. The rest is about the same as any other engine, just a little tight because it's a big/wide engine. But all that's been improved a lot as well with sheet metal changes, motor mount mods, etc. But once it's done, the engine runs beautifully and there's basically nothing left to do. Just hang on because it's incredibly responsive and makes gobs of power. I am definitely won over.

A more traditional build, especially carb'd, is certainly easier to install. But once installed there's still more work to do to get it running as well as it can. That can be daunting, and many don't have the equipment or skills to tune carbs. The aftermarket EFI systems offer an alternative over a carb. And while they are advertised as plug and play, there are too many posts that suggest otherwise. Not to say they don't run great, or that it's difficult. But there's a curve there. Some are still installing the older 5.0 small blocks or 4.6 mod motors with their factory EFI. Can work just fine, but not sure I put those in the same league as the 435+ HP Coyote and IMO the effort (wiring, etc.) is no easier than a Coyote. Maybe a bit harder. With the Coyote you get a fully engineering and turnkey setup. Basically it's a standalone system. There are five interface points between the Coyote system and the RF harness. That's it. Plus power and gauge senders, which you have to do with any engine.

Hope that helps and is constructive. :cool:

jdavis500

05-09-2017, 08:37 AM

edwardb

05-09-2017, 10:38 AM

Lots of great info. Thanks Edwardb. I am planning a Gen 3 Coupe build and I understand that others are installing Coyotes in them. I would like PS and AC, but understand there are placement issues. Do you have any thoughts on this?

I'm thinking about a similar build and have the same question. Very early for me so no solid answers yet. What I have so far is that according to Jim Schneck at FFR, it's possible to run a KRC power steering setup which leaves the factory A/C location open. I used KRC power steering in my latest Roadster build, and it fits and works great. Not cheap, but what isn't... That will be the first thing I consider. Another idea I saw in a build thread was this front drive setup from LMR: https://lmr.com/item/SVE-8511D/coyot...-mustang-11-16. Will check that out as well. Plus keep watching and looking.

Now back to Jdav's build thread. :)

Jdav

05-09-2017, 11:15 AM

Now back to Jdav's build thread. :)

Then I guess I need to keep building!
I've decided to go ahead and order my engine/trans, just need to plan my schedule for shipping. And either borrow or make some engine lift plates.
What type of space does the crate take up? As I've mentioned, I am pretty limited on space in my garage, so I need to make sure everything can fit.

Also, EdwardB, I am wiring up courtesy lights in both the footwell and the trunk like you did. For the footwell, I followed the FFR instructions to attach to the grey and red (i think it was red) courtesy light ron francis harness wires. My understanding is that this should allow me to turn those on and off by twisting the headlight knob. You noted that you also tapped into the courtesy light power for the trunk light since it is an always on circuit and created a separate grounding point. I assume that the separate ground connection is what keeps the trunk light as an always on (turned off by the magnetic switch) and that I will not need to have the headlight knob twisted on in order for the trunk lights to be hot.

As far as my 14 week update, more slow progress as noted before. I did install the other seat heater pad and added the aluminum spacers on the seat frame as EdwardB did. I also ran the power wires for the seat heaters through the trans tunnel. I will be mounting the switches either under the dash or on the under dash A panel, so I need to extend the wires and run them through the trans tunnel as well.
I also bought some vinyl from JoAnn fabric to cover the trans tunnel. The fiancee is taking the lead on that part of the build. She also wants to do vinyl on the rear cockpit wall - I cant find that anyone has done that, so open to any thoughts on if that is a bad idea.

wareaglescott

05-09-2017, 11:29 AM

Glad to hear you ordered the motor. It will show up on a standard pallet.
For the lift plate the home made ones I made worked good and were easy to produce. EdwardB provided me the measurements. They are in my build thread post 124.
Rear cockpit wall vinyl sounds pretty cool!

edwardb

05-09-2017, 07:29 PM

I've decided to go ahead and order my engine/trans, just need to plan my schedule for shipping. And either borrow or make some engine lift plates.
What type of space does the crate take up? As I've mentioned, I am pretty limited on space in my garage, so I need to make sure everything can fit.

Here is a picture for the Coyote crate. The Racedeck squares on the floor are 12 x 12. So you can get an idea of the size.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3495_zpsje7httjn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3495_zpsje7httjn.jpg.html)

Also, EdwardB, I am wiring up courtesy lights in both the footwell and the trunk like you did. For the footwell, I followed the FFR instructions to attach to the grey and red (i think it was red) courtesy light ron francis harness wires. My understanding is that this should allow me to turn those on and off by twisting the headlight knob. You noted that you also tapped into the courtesy light power for the trunk light since it is an always on circuit and created a separate grounding point. I assume that the separate ground connection is what keeps the trunk light as an always on (turned off by the magnetic switch) and that I will not need to have the headlight knob twisted on in order for the trunk lights to be hot.

The RF Red (+12V) and Grey (ground) courtesy light circuit is switched by the headlight switch. It makes/breaks the Grey wire to ground by twisting the headlight knob. The Red wire is always hot. So it can also be used to power the trunk lights. As long as you provide a separate ground, twisting the headlight switch is not required for the trunk lights. Recommended wiring would be to take the +12V from the RF Red Courtesy Light wire to the positive side of the trunk light. Then take the ground wire side of the trunk light to the magnetic switch, and the other side of the magnetic switch to an actual chassis ground location. I put a ring terminal on the end of the ground wire, and riveted it to a spot on the back of the trunk hoop where I removed the powder coat. Now the magnetic switch makes/breaks the ground to the trunk light just like the headlight switch does for the courtesy lights. Pretty straightforward.

Jdav

05-09-2017, 09:32 PM

Perfect, thanks Edwardb

Jeff Kleiner

05-10-2017, 05:40 AM

Just to add to Paul's courtesy light comments---you run the courtesy light ground wire back to this terminal on the headlight switch:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Untitled-3.jpg

When the knob is turned to the detent it creates continuity between this terminal and the metal switch frame however be aware that the headlight switch has to be grounded to complete the circuit. There is a tab on the metal switch frame (opposite the side visible in the photo above) that will accept a female spade connector. To assure that the switch is well grounded run a wire from that tab to the chassis.

Cheers,
Jeff

Jdav

05-15-2017, 01:18 PM

Week 15
I continued the electrical work - completing the seat heater wiring, extending the wiring for the switches and testing it our (they work!). I had ordered 2 extra on-off-on toggle switches from FFR to use for the seat heaters - i was debating using those or the supplied switches, but decided on the FFR toggles to keep the look. I am going to mount them on the A panel part of the firewall that is on top/in front of the trans tunnel - out of the way, but still easily accessible.

I also put the battery in the Breeze front battery tray and started on that wiring, but didn't get too far as I don't yet know where I will mount the starter.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/407F91AD-2784-45F1-90DE-3FDACF4FCE42_zpsbkmfohet.jpg

And it was time to say goodbye to the frame dolly. She finally put her feet on the ground:
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/2123B6E3-8EDA-435C-8599-03B0AF57B3D2_zpsbhey7eyy.jpg
But then I put it right back up on wheel dollys.

And finally, I did some work on the dash - getting the glove box in (I used the FFR upgraded dash with glovebox), using a aluminum insert plate on the door with acorn nuts securing it to the hinges and then epoxy-ing the insert plate to the glovebox door. I'll add some pics of that when I get home tonight.
And I couldn't resist putting the gauges in as well. I decided I wanted the speedo on the right and tach on the left - it just feels more natural to me that way.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/F3ECBAAD-EAF4-4D2F-959E-838CE6D3E685_zps5eo1ifln.jpg
With the RT turn signal and the turn signal indicator & high beam lights integrated into the gauges, I'll only need to find a place to mount the check engine light. The other existing holes will be for horn, ignition and lights with my hazard switch going down on the A panel with the aforementioned seat heater switches.

wareaglescott

05-15-2017, 01:45 PM

Congrats on getting it on the ground!
Starter goes on the lower passenger side of the motor.

edwardb

05-15-2017, 04:12 PM

I had ordered 2 extra on-off-on toggle switches from FFR to use for the seat heaters - i was debating using those or the supplied switches, but decided on the FFR toggles to keep the look. I am going to mount them on the A panel part of the firewall that is on top/in front of the trans tunnel - out of the way, but still easily accessible.

I'd recommend being a little cautious there. CobraHeat seat heaters? The supplied switches have specific wiring for the high and low circuits, relay, dropping resistor, etc. that's in the harness. Make certain your replacement switches exactly duplicate what the supplied switches are doing. Personally I think the supplied switches look fine alongside the Lucas style toggles. Plus they have the seat logo and red and green indicator lights. But like many things it's a matter of opinion.

Jdav

05-16-2017, 08:46 AM

I'd recommend being a little cautious there. CobraHeat seat heaters? The supplied switches have specific wiring for the high and low circuits, relay, dropping resistor, etc. that's in the harness. Make certain your replacement switches exactly duplicate what the supplied switches are doing. Personally I think the supplied switches look fine alongside the Lucas style toggles. Plus they have the seat logo and red and green indicator lights. But like many things it's a matter of opinion.

According to the guy I spoke with at CobraHeat, the switch is just a standard 3-way. But I'll do some additional bench testing to make sure everything is in order. Thanks for the watch out.

http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/Schematic022_zps0ld6xukz.jpg

Jdav

05-17-2017, 08:41 AM

Yesterday was a big day - the engine and transmission was ordered!
Coyote and TKO600 from Mike Forte.

edwardb

05-17-2017, 09:03 AM

According to the guy I spoke with at CobraHeat, the switch is just a standard 3-way. But I'll do some additional bench testing to make sure everything is in order. Thanks for the watch out.

Sounds good. That's the first I've seen of an actual schematic for the heaters. Their instructions don't include one. I've wondered exactly how they switch between high and low. Always thought there was some kind of dropping resistor in the circuit, but never saw anything like that in the harness and wasn't sure exactly what the relay was doing although could hear it clicking on the low setting. Studying the schematic, now see they have the pads in parallel for high, and in series for low using the relay. The resistance of the pads themselves is obviously enough to effect the low setting. Interesting. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't know that. :o

Jdav

05-17-2017, 09:56 AM

Sounds good. That's the first I've seen of an actual schematic for the heaters. Their instructions don't include one. I've wondered exactly how they switch between high and low. Always thought there was some kind of dropping resistor in the circuit, but never saw anything like that in the harness and wasn't sure exactly what the relay was doing although could hear it clicking on the low setting. Studying the schematic, now see they have the pads in parallel for high, and in series for low using the relay. The resistance of the pads themselves is obviously enough to effect the low setting. Interesting. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't know that. :o

The guy at CobraHeat sent over the schematic after i spoke with him about what I wanted to do. I don't understand what you just said, so you were certainly not the only one who didnt know that!

Jdav

05-18-2017, 06:20 PM

Some new artwork for the garage
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/8119EF52-A296-40EC-A402-FF1327CFEF8E_zpsjw0tmo5p.jpg

wareaglescott

05-19-2017, 04:44 AM

exciting news about the motor and tranny! When do you expect them?
Pictures look great on the wall.

Jdav

05-20-2017, 06:57 AM

exciting news about the motor and tranny! When do you expect them?
Pictures look great on the wall.

Thanks!

Trans is due in today.
Motor in about a week (had to delay delivery as I am out of town for a bit)

Jdav

05-20-2017, 06:40 PM

I added the 3/4in spacer to the transmission mount. Chose to add them between the energy suspension mount and the supplied steel plate.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/DABE5781-C497-46AD-B380-4536F49A4667_zpsaiwc25r7.jpg

Jdav

05-29-2017, 09:00 PM

Week 16 & 17
I missed my weekly post last Monday as I was out of the country (FYI: Seoul is a pretty cool place).
Several parts came in from Mike Forte: transmission, bellhousing, clutch, speedo plug, air filter
And Mike Everson: under dash panel, RT turn signal bezel, radiator panel, seat belt trim plates and windshield trim plates
Engine should be arriving this week from Ford.

I completed a lot of my dash wiring: all gauges, seat heaters, USB plugs, courtesy lights (footwell and trunk). I also attached the under dash panel. I still need to wire up the RT turn signal, but that's it until the coyote control pack arrives.

Jdav

06-05-2017, 12:47 PM

18 weeks in.
I rewired my dash in an attempt to make it cleaner/more compact. I at least succeeded in making it more compact :)
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/FDB69F93-84EF-47AE-9C8A-66E3369B528B_zpsguflaoyd.jpg

I also replaced the fuel filter I had previously installed with a combo fuel filter/pressure regulator as discussed in this thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24638-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Coyote

Other than that, I just cleaned up the garage in prep for engine delivery (today!).

Jdav

06-05-2017, 03:04 PM

Coyote delivery day!!
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/A8E7CDEE-7931-429B-B7F2-1000C959FE0E_zps3rimk4by.jpg
It is hard to resist tearing off that plastic, but I'm going to focus on the wiring first.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/4791B8BB-21F4-45B8-8342-079AD8C8618F_zpscdo3xycd.jpg
And the control pack
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/7F87F47B-5448-404E-945F-71B673D1B525_zpslxgeu0xq.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/E3821E4C-DCE2-4DFC-B2A5-A3F0D50B2721_zpszvd2mkpy.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/1E116EC2-9367-4F0A-B468-9AA6D3CCDB5D_zpstirbq6nr.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/5503CAB3-FF6C-475B-8DCB-992615C7BDBA_zps5tcjkpcv.jpg
dont think i'll need these
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/D8CE66C2-5921-42A7-8433-C8035912C8E1_zpsgyrk98ex.jpg

Jdav

06-07-2017, 08:38 AM

For those in the future who are limited on space as I am, the pallet that the coyote is shipped in measures in at just a hair under 36"x36"

Jdav

06-11-2017, 05:51 PM

I am doing some wiring prior to dropping in the coyote and have come to the battery ground. I have the breeze front battery tray, so the ground will be in the engine bay.
I had a lot of trouble trying to tap into the round cross member and so I don't trust my ability to get a good ground that way. Any issue with drilling a hole through the spot marked below and then attaching the ground cable with a bolt and nut?
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/0126E6D6-6EE1-481D-9656-D78B215A0D63_zpsak3fikru.jpg

Jeff Kleiner

06-11-2017, 07:33 PM

No problem with that location. FWIW, with a front mount battery I attach the ground cable to the front surface of the passenger side engine mount pedestal. Wherever you go just be sure to remove the chassis powder coating so that you have a good metal to metal contact.

Jeff

Jdav

06-12-2017, 05:11 PM

My alternator is in back order. Ford said it should be in by the end of the month.
Should I be patient and wait for it before installing my engine (coyote) or should I go ahead and add it once it arrives and make my life easier?

Straversi

06-12-2017, 05:35 PM

You can install the alternator easily after the Coyote is installed. Drop that baby in!
-Steve

Jdav

06-12-2017, 07:23 PM

You can install the alternator easily after the Coyote is installed. Drop that baby in!
-Steve

I've found not much is "easy" ��
But thanks, I'll plow ahead. Should get the rest of the engine/trans ready this weekend.

Jdav

06-13-2017, 09:54 PM

19 weeks in.
I worked mostly on wiring from the coyote control pack - following edwardb's wiring plan, with the exception of no master shut off.
Coyote pigtail is wired in, PCB is mounted and main power and ground lines are run (but not yet connected to the battery terminals).
I also wrapped up the Russ Thompson turn signal wiring.
Next up is prepping the engine and trans to drop in!

One funny realization this week is how much more comfortable I have become in solving problems throughout this process. Or that it was a big deal, but with the premium dash , the steering wheel hole is an oval. That left the screw in the top part of RT bezel (from Mike Everson) with nothing to hold in to. I just grabbed some spare aluminum and made a little plat to sandwich the dash. It's great that this process gets you thinking like that.

Jdav

06-16-2017, 03:16 PM

I'm trying to remove the dowel pins from the flywheel in order to replace them with the smaller ones to fit the pressure plate, but I can't get them to budge (using a punch and a hammer). Any tricks?

Jdav

06-16-2017, 08:50 PM

I got them out using a bigger hammer (4lb engineering hammer)

Jdav

06-18-2017, 09:06 AM

FYI, I've found that a 3/8 coupling nut works great to remove bother the water temp plug and the oil filter nipple in the coyote.

Jdav

06-19-2017, 08:46 PM

20 weeks in
Some exciting progress as I started work on the engine.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/52095BE6-CFA0-44E3-BFAE-A1CA4585FC3B_zpslcxledct.jpg
I started with adding the engine accessories- luckily my back ordered alternator arrived so no worries about installing it after the engine is in. It was missing the nut that goes on the stud you install, so I grabbed on from Home Depot (m10 1.5).
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/33E7732C-0164-4340-B515-D90F488CD687_zpsivia5wtx.jpg
My brother in law let me borrow an engine hoist so I was able to get it off the crate and drained the oil. I had a difficult time getting it level, but avoided making too much of a mess.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/75633DEB-C0E6-45C6-A81B-83B130C092DB_zpsbqfd3uba.jpg
After that, I removed the stock oil pan and pickup (deep socket 10mm made getting out that last bolt on the pickup much easier). I ran into an issue as my replacement oil pan had some interference with some alignment tabs on the gasket/windage tray. When I ordered everything from Mike Forte, he was out of stock on the Moroso pan so I got a canton instead. Not sure if it's a canton specific issue or if the tabs are new on the coyote (I checked with EdwardB and WarEagleScott and neither remembered an issue). Anyway, after consulting Forte, Canton and for my own sanity, EdwardB, I trimmed the tabs off with a pair of snips (they were plastic, so cut easily). Then I got the new pan on and all bolted up.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/FECB4F46-F08B-4919-8FB4-AE5CC92C01C1_zps9tparkq4.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/C571C748-0D66-432B-8598-B23B32BF6E72_zps0rf7qc73.jpg
I hope to get the trans mated this week and then into the car over the weekend!

My beautiful assistant and bride to-be
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/0EF546D8-7EF1-4E9C-AAEB-B075194CDEFA_zpsara4flrf.jpg

Straversi

06-19-2017, 10:40 PM

Looking good!

After I installed my Coyote and eventually added fluids I discovered a small oil leak. Turned out to be nothing more than the side oil plug was loose. However, I was very nervousness about my gasket, proper torque, warped pan, etc.

It is very difficult to wok on the pan once the engine is installed, at least for those of us without lifts.

For peace of mind, add a few quarts of oil back into the motor now and let it sit. If you have any problems better to discover them on the engine stand or hoist.
-Steve

wareaglescott

06-20-2017, 06:09 AM

Second Steve's tip. I also discovered a small oil leak from my side plug. Came out the morning after I filled it and found quite a mess on the garage floor. Ended up having to drain and redo that plug.

Jdav

06-20-2017, 11:18 AM

edwardb

06-20-2017, 11:39 AM

Thanks for the tip guys - the plug is on order, so i'll add oil as soon as i install it.

As I prep the transmission, I have a question on the Forte hydraulic clutch.
I've read about needing to cut the push rod - what am I trying to accomplish by cutting it down? And how do I know when it is the right length?

It won't fit without cutting. That's your first clue. :D Sorry...

Get everything assembled and mounted and I think you'll find it's pretty straightforward. Get the clutch arm installed with the pivot in the bell housing at the right location, throwout bearing installed, etc. and confirm the clutch arm is just past perpendicular to the driveline (toward the back) with the TOB touching the clutch fingers. Install the supplied pushrod pivot on the end of the clutch arm. Then get the slave cylinder mounted. Confirm the slave piston is all the way in (should be since it's spring loaded), put the bushing on the end of the pushrod and the heim joint on the other. Cut the pushrod until it will fit into the resulting space with just a slight amount of remaining play in the clutch arm. There is some adjustment with the threaded heim joint. Hope that helps and makes sense.

Jdav

06-22-2017, 08:16 AM

Do the bolts for the engine mount get a specific torque and/or thread locker?
I've done some searching, but couldn't find an answer.

Jdav

06-22-2017, 01:14 PM

Do the bolts for the engine mount get a specific torque and/or thread locker?
I've done some searching, but couldn't find an answer.

Ducky was kind enough to send me this, so I thought I post it on the forum in case others needed it
https://125ce39a953ac42e9dca-deb24507f0fa4b8d3f6ebcaa7f91f9a8.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.c om/mustang-50-coyote-motor-torque-specs_71be7a75.jpg

wareaglescott

06-22-2017, 01:26 PM

Joel that torque chart looks very useful. Thanks for posting. Is there a way to just copy and paste the text only so I could add it to a document I have for maintaining the car?

Ducky2009

06-22-2017, 09:07 PM

Torque specs. NOTE: Ford uses a lot of torque specs, PLUS an extra degree turn after achieving the given torque.
https://lmr.com/products/mustang-50-coyote-motor-torque-specs

Jdav

06-25-2017, 07:04 PM

21 weeks
I never thought I would be posting this after just 5 months, but today, the engine went in!
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/ED663B07-811D-413C-980D-538248F481E0_zpsxs7ggugu.png

Prior to the engine install, I filled it back up with oil and had to tighten a few of the plugs, but no major oil leaks to note.
I then got the bell housing mounted and transmission installed.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/72B0070C-0A0B-4E9A-B26F-D7FB436F86D1_zps5dy9qcyi.jpg

Then I got Forte's hydraulic clutch all mounted. I did have to take out the trans and bell housing as I realized I had installed the piece on the clutch fork upside down. I also cut off a good bit of the push rod.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/482AAEC3-93D9-4F57-8A34-2983766A1353_zpswehxofoa.jpg

Then it was on to the engine install. It's quite intimidating for a first timer.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/A0C839D3-EAD5-42E1-8DD0-CB677C171B9E_zps4fukcxqv.jpg

But overall, it was not as difficult as I feared. It took us about an hour with lots of lift/adjust/lower/repeat. But it's in and it feels great! As many others have noted, almost no clearance on the driver side footbox.
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/D1F52CB9-4AB5-498E-B40A-CE00F4FBD1B6_zpsf4lcosi9.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/jdavuga18/Cobra/7C905460-E5BA-4345-B252-65AB765A8657_zpsn6pr8ejr.jpg

Straversi

06-25-2017, 07:14 PM

Congratulations!

The dog looks proud of his hard work.
-Steve

jdavis500

06-25-2017, 08:07 PM

Awesome! I am excited for you.

James

Boydster

06-25-2017, 08:41 PM

Nice work. Dog looks pretty amazed that it fit.

edwardb

06-25-2017, 10:47 PM

Looking good! Congrats. Feels good to get that big Coyote where it belongs.

One question/observation. Maybe you have it and just haven't installed yet. But there's a cover you need for the hole on the left side, below the exhaust headers, behind the motor mount. It's called a flywheel access hole plug, Ford part number F3LY-6C070-A. Pretty cheap (< $10) plastic part that snaps into that hole. Listed in the FF Coyote instructions. I noticed in one of your pictures that the cover isn't there, so thought I would mention.

Jdav

06-26-2017, 08:28 AM

edwardb

06-26-2017, 09:21 AM

Also, any specific torque for the motor mount to frame bolts?

Probably is a torque spec somewhere. I haven't tried to find one though. It's a big locking nut, plus not necessarily easy to get a torque wrench into. I use a long 1/2-inch breaker bar and give it a good tug.

Ducky2009

06-26-2017, 01:53 PM

Congrats Joel, looks great!

Straversi

06-26-2017, 09:39 PM

Thanks Paul - I did not notice that in the parts list, and I don't think its actually noted in the instructions, so I would have missed that!

Also, any specific torque for the motor mount to frame bolts?

Oops, I missed that one too. Thanks gang.
-Steve

Jdav

06-30-2017, 08:21 AM

These header bolts are no joke.
I got 7 of the 8 in on the passenger side and 6 in on the driver. The ones I have left I cant even get started by hand.

awd-turbo

06-30-2017, 08:42 AM

If you are using Gas ' n headers, you might need to drill out the holes to make them line up with the bolt holes on the head. This is a known issue... and be prepared to spend time doing it...

Jdav

06-30-2017, 09:38 AM

If you are using Gas ' n headers, you might need to drill out the holes to make them line up with the bolt holes on the head. This is a known issue... and be prepared to spend time doing it...
I'm using the FFR supplied headers for the Coyote - they appear to be BBKs

Ducky2009

06-30-2017, 01:14 PM

I'm using the FFR supplied headers for the Coyote - they appear to be BBKs

I installed most from the underside. I slid in from the drivers side and was looking up at the starter to let my hands/arms bend naturally, to reach the drivers side hard to get bolts.

Jdav

07-01-2017, 04:48 PM

Ducky2009

07-01-2017, 05:41 PM

I have 2 bolts (top right on driver sides, bottom second from front on passenger side) that I can't get in. The driver side on I have plenty of room for my hand, the threads just won't catch.
I was thinking that maybe an earlier attempt cross threaded it - my only idea is to try to re tap the first few threads. Is that stupid? Any other ideas?

Did you tighten any of the bolts? Loosen then just a little bit. The top back bolt on the drivers side... I had to hold the header up a little to get the bolt in. Reached it from the top, from the back of the engine. Passenger side, I can reach the second bolt, no problem. Again, loosen the bolts. Remember, these are metric threads if you tap them.

edwardb

07-01-2017, 07:01 PM

Agreed all need to be loose until all 8 are started. That was going to be first response as well. I suspect that's what you're doing, but just need to confirm. My GP Headers were that way. Each had to be dead loose to get all eight started. The bolts needed to go exactly straight into the hole or wouldn't start threading. Once all eight were started, then started snugging them down.

If that still doesn't work, I wouldn't be in a hurry to get out the tap. I would take it slow. I know it seems like going backwards, but I would remove enough bolts so the header can move a bit and you can confirm the offending holes really do have a problem. I suspect they don't. Likely you just need to open up the holes in the header a bit so all eight will go in.

Ducky2009

07-02-2017, 11:03 AM

I have 2 bolts (top right on driver sides, bottom second from front on passenger side) that I can't get in. The driver side on I have plenty of room for my hand, the threads just won't catch.
I was thinking that maybe an earlier attempt cross threaded it - my only idea is to try to re tap the first few threads. Is that stupid? Any other ideas?

If you think you need to re-tap any threads, I'd remove the headers first and try all the bolts, so you know there is no header interference.

Jdav

07-03-2017, 09:34 PM

22 weeks
I spent most of the week fighting with the header bolts. I finally got the last one in yesterday and have the beat up hands to show for it. I loosened the other bolts almost all the way and was able to get the passenger side one in. The driver side still gave me some trouble. I ended up getting a different bolt from Home Depot that wasn't chamfered on the end and it cut through and started easier. After that I swapped it back to the supplied bolt and got it in all the way. I wish I would have at least tried to attach the headers prior to dropping in the engine, but water under the bridge now.

I was also able to get the driveshaft in and the radiator mounted using the breeze upper and lower mounting kit.

Jdav

07-10-2017, 10:26 PM

23 weeks in
I did not get much done this week. Tied up a few loose ends like the sending unit wiring and sorting out what is needed on the cmcv and radiator routing. I was initially planning to use the provided in neck filler and expansion tank, but I think I'm going to follow edwardb and order the moroso tank and corresponding lines instead.

Jdav

07-18-2017, 09:20 AM

24 weeks in
I was out of town much of the week, so again, slow progress.
I did receive a few new parts: moroso coolant tank and the PCV connector from JLT.
I also ordered the smaller size connector from JLT for the CMCV. Instead of cutting out the push to connect fitting on the tube that comes from the back of the manifold (under the manifold) to the front of the engine, I used the JLT connector and then a 3/8" tube - connecting to an elbow and 3/8 to 1/2 adapter to 1/2: tube to the nipple on the intake. This is how I believe the CMCV should be routed based on diagram in this thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22472-Important-Information-Regarding-2015-2016-Coyote-CMCV-Plumbing). Using these connections also means that if that is not the correct routing, I can easily change it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70726&d=1500386490

I also fabbed up some mounts for the moroso tank, using some steel plates (Simpson Strong Tie from home depot - used for decking). I bent them into a W shape that I think should be sturdy and then used JB Weld to mount a nut on the bottom. I can then rivet the tabs to the radiator cross bar and the radiator flange.
I am unsure if the height is right, so if anyone with the tank installed on a finished car can measure the tank height compared to the cross bar, that would be helpful.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70730&d=1500387299
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70731&d=1500387300

edwardb

07-18-2017, 01:09 PM

For the Moroso reservoir, with the front mounting using brackets wrapped around the radiator top support (similar to what I did) the bottom mount for the reservoir should be close to the fan shroud. Very important IMO to get a solid connection there so it's triangulated. I made another piece that the the reservoir sets on there. Hard to get an overall height dimension though. Too many curves and angles. Just looked at mine. The back top corner (toward the firewall) of the reservoir is roughly in line with the bottom of the hood 3/4-inch surround tubes if you were to project that line over to both sides. Hopefully that makes sense. Mine clears the hood fine, and is high enough that the cooling system hooks up OK and works great. Hope that helps.

Ducky2009

07-19-2017, 04:14 PM

24 weeks in... This is how I believe the CMCV should be routed based on diagram in this thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22472-Important-Information-Regarding-2015-2016-Coyote-CMCV-Plumbing). Using these connections also means that if that is not the correct routing, I can easily change it.

You didn't discuss this.... Did you connect to the CMCV vacuum posts at the rear of the engine (two places)? This (along with the electrical switch) is what makes the CMCV work.

70829

edwardb

07-19-2017, 06:56 PM

You didn't discuss this.... Did you connect to the CMCV vacuum posts at the rear of the engine (two places)? This (along with the electrical switch) is what makes the CMCV work.

70829

Actually the connections you're pointing to are vents. On earlier versions of the Gen2 Coyote those were connected to the intake. On later versions, Ford deleted the hose to the intake and vents them to atmosphere. The vacuum signal that those switches control is on the other side.

The CMCV system gets its vacuum from the reservoir in the manifold, which needs to be hooked up to the vacuum connection at the front of the engine by the throttle body. Check this vacuum diagram for the system. This is the older version showing the vent tube to the intake. Ford apparently doesn't have a newer one.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/th_Coyote_Vacuum_zpsn8nzgshg.png (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/Coyote_Vacuum_zpsn8nzgshg.png.html)

Ducky2009

07-19-2017, 09:14 PM

Actually the connections you're pointing to are vents. On earlier versions of the Gen2 Coyote those were connected to the intake. On later versions, Ford deleted the hose to the intake and vents them to atmosphere. The vacuum signal that those switches control is on the other side.

The CMCV system gets its vacuum from the reservoir in the manifold, which needs to be hooked up to the vacuum connection at the front of the engine by the throttle body. Check this vacuum diagram for the system. This is the older version showing the vent tube to the intake. Ford apparently doesn't have a newer one.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/th_Coyote_Vacuum_zpsn8nzgshg.png (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/Coyote_Vacuum_zpsn8nzgshg.png.html)

I originally connected the supplied line (2017 is on the PS, same as your diagram. Your car pics show it on the DS) to the cold air inlet, same as you. The CMCV was open, great for performance, bad for gas mileage. I called Ford racing and they acted like this has never happened before. After talking to them a second time, that person told me the hose is no longer supplied from them, but is installed on factory cars. I also had a fault. After reading someone's (???) post, it suggested connecting to the ports as I did. The CMCV is now functioning correctly.

Edwardb - I thought it was your post that showed a hose from the intake to the CMCV connections and fuel regulator

edwardb

07-19-2017, 10:29 PM

I originally connected the supplied line (2017 is on the PS, same as your diagram. Your car pics show it on the DS) to the cold air inlet, same as you. The CMCV was open, great for performance, bad for gas mileage. I called Ford racing and they acted like this has never happened before. After talking to them a second time, that person told me the hose is no longer supplied from them, but is installed on factory cars. I also had a fault. After reading someone's (???) post, it suggested connecting to the ports as I did. The CMCV is now functioning correctly.

Agreed the support from Ford on this feature isn't great. They supplied the posted vacuum diagram and that was about it. Factory Five doesn't address the feature in the revised Coyote installation instructions either. They show using the required vacuum port for the fuel regulator vacuum signal. That's it.

I went through a couple revisions to get mine to work, and ended up with the CMCV vacuum supply line on the opposite side as it came from the factory. But that doesn't matter. What does matter is there has to be a line from the vacuum port on the front of the engine by the throttle body to the connection on the back of the intake going into the vacuum reservoir. That's true for all versions. If your CMCV system is working, then yours must be connected.

I haven't gotten a CMCV DTC since mine was plumbed this way, now approaching 1000 miles. Just today was doing some data logging, and can see in the data where the PCM is commanding the IMRC valves to open and close. With no codes, they are apparently doing what they're told. Hopefully yours is the same.

No need to continue this discussion in Joel's build thread. :)

jdavis500

07-21-2017, 04:20 PM

Joel,

Your red outline of the CMCV plumbing made me do a double-take. Just sayin'...

Jdav

07-21-2017, 08:38 PM

Joel,

Your red outline of the CMCV plumbing made me do a double-take. Just sayin'...
It does have a certain shape that I'm sure most of us are familiar with :rolleyes:

Jdav

07-23-2017, 07:13 PM

25 weeks in

A lot of progress this week. I finished fabbing up the coolant tank mount (including a piece that the bottom of the tank sits on) and got it installed and all of the radiator plumbing. Got the intake in. Ran the power steering lines, including a cooler.

And then, 175 days since my kit arrived, I had my first start!

I got a little nervous as it took a while for gas to get in the system. It ran a little rough once it did fire up, but subsequent starts had a nice smooth growl.
Needless to say, it was an exciting day.

https://youtu.be/PX79sCEr3Bc

https://youtu.be/DuP8kJq_YSM

Papa

07-23-2017, 07:27 PM

Congrats! I'm a loooong way from the first start milestone.

Jeff Kleiner

07-23-2017, 08:21 PM

I got your video text Joel---CONGRATS!

Jeff

Ducky2009

07-24-2017, 11:44 AM

Congrats Joel!

wareaglescott

07-24-2017, 03:09 PM

Congrats! Great progress. Go cart next!

WIS89

07-24-2017, 10:13 PM

Joel-
Awesome, congratulations on your first start!!! What a great milestone, and I know you must feel great!!!

Way to go!!

Regards,

Steve

Jdav

07-26-2017, 08:16 PM

edwardb

07-26-2017, 08:50 PM

My fuel gauge is not reading properly. I only put ~1 gallon of gas in for the first start, but gauge is reading as full.
I am using the FFR supplied level sender and the vintage gauges. Do I need to calibrate?

Sounds like it. The FFR supplied sending unit is normally the Ford 16 -158 Ohms unit. According to the Speedhut instructions the factory default setting is 240 Ohms empty and 33 Ohms full. If that's really what it is, you're going to get some bad readings. :( Check the instructions for the calibration process. It's real simple. For your sending unit, the needle should be at the 7/8 full point during calibration.

Side note: I'd personally put another gallon or two in the tank. One gallon isn't much. Lots of tanks still have a little fuel in them when the pickup isn't able to draw any more. Could give inconsistent results, might even be why your first start was a little hesitant. Normally the in-tank pump fills the line and puts pressure on the fuel rails very quickly.

wareaglescott

07-27-2017, 05:26 AM

I noticed when I put three gallons in and I parked on a slight incline there seemed to be some hesitation in the motor as well after the first few starts/run cycles. Certainly before I would have used a couple gallons. I attributed that to not enough fuel around the pickup. I would put some more in there as well like Paul mentioned.

Jdav

08-01-2017, 08:22 PM

26 Weeks in
This week I have been doing a fine tuning: calibrating and checking the tach & fuel level sender, checking my fluids after running a bit, etc. all seems well.
I also re-bled my brakes as the pedal was a bit soft. I don't think I got all the air out originally. I was fearing that my MC was faulty, but the pedal has been firm since the re-bleed.
I also replaced the oil pressure sender. I broke off one of the studs when trying to connect the wires (it's not just you WarEagleScott).
I also redid the shifter block off plate, cutting it down to mount it flush and attaching from underneath with a brace and some JG weld. And I attached a steel plate underneath on the forward part of the tunnel so that I can do the magnetic cup holder (I forget who's idea this was).
Finally, I've been chasing down some wiring issues. At first my headlights weren't working and the flashers had the wrong indicator lights, but I have all that sorted now. My remaining issue is that my turn signals aren't working.

Jdav

08-04-2017, 09:59 AM

I am at the point of mounting my seats. I have the standard vintage roadster seats; any concern with positioning them before putting the body on?

edwardb

08-04-2017, 04:32 PM

I am at the point of mounting my seats. I have the standard vintage roadster seats; any concern with positioning them before putting the body on?

Yes. Don't. You want the body on before establishing the final seal locations. You'll find the outside corners end up real close or even contacting the body.

Jdav

08-06-2017, 11:00 AM

I am hearing a noise that I don't think should be there, but have no idea what it is or how to fix it.
Any ideas?
https://youtu.be/hAfx6gADRyY

pierreb

08-06-2017, 03:01 PM

Reading this on phone so it's hard to navigate, but could it be PS pump noise?

Jdav

08-06-2017, 03:11 PM

It is definitely coming from the area around the power steering pump/belt. I have ps fluid in and steering seems fine,although I haven't driven more than 40ft and made no real turns.

Jdav

08-06-2017, 03:21 PM

Definitely something with the power steering
Noise gets worse as the wheel is turned. And a bit of ps fluid comes out of the reservoir vent
Here is another video
https://youtu.be/lzjmt2B3kLs

Jdav

08-06-2017, 05:08 PM

Problem solved. I evidently had some air trapped in the line. A few turns with the cap off and the fluid level dropped almost to zero. Added more fluid, did a fed more turns and fluid seemed to be going in and out as expected. Turned the car on and the sound was gone.

pierreb

08-06-2017, 05:34 PM

Ducky2009

08-07-2017, 03:17 PM

Jdav

08-07-2017, 10:19 PM

27 weeks in
I couldn't get the turn signals working and traced the problem to the RT turn signal switch. Russ was helpful and I have sent it back to him to try to fix. I also cured my power steering pump noise as detailed above. Roll bars also were installed, I'm using the tangent kit instead of the Frankenstein bolt on the top. I also mounted my harness.
Originally I thought the build would take me close to a year, so I got on Kleiner's list for paint/body work around December/January. I've progressed much more quickly than anticipated, but Jeff can't fit me in early. Instead, I plan to just finish out the car and get it registered and drive in gel coat until he's ready for me.

Jdav

08-15-2017, 10:10 AM

28 weeks in
Not much action this week between being sick and really only having the finishing work left.
I did re-bleed my brakes as they were a bit too soft for my liking on my driveway go kart runs.

Jdav

08-17-2017, 08:42 PM

I got my turn signal back from Russ, hooked it up and all worked as intended!
He said there was some corrosion on the switch that was preventing a connection. All fixed now and good to go.

Jdav

08-21-2017, 01:03 PM

29 Weeks in
As noted above, I got my turn signal back and installed and working.
Carpet also started to go in the cockpit and the trunk
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72628&d=1503338247
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72627&d=1503338241

And I put the body back on for the first time since the start of the project.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72629&d=1503338253

Although I dont think things are lining up quite right. I do have the bulb seal on the firewall and trunk walls and floor (but not rear cockpit wall) and the foam weatherstripping on the trunk hoop and engine bay tubes. I also have the quickjack bolts loosely installed on both front and rear. But my front wheels are not centered in the wheel well and almost touching in the front.
Is this a body alignment issue (the body doesnt seem to want to move any further forward) or a wheel alignment issue (I have not done an alignment yet?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72626&d=1503338233

edwardb

08-21-2017, 01:13 PM

Without the required caster, it's possible you could be that far off. But you also need to check that your body is far enough forward. My guess is maybe some of both. Check this post from Jeff Kleiner that describes where the body should be specifically at the door striker location along with possible adjustments. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18801-Body-Alignment-questions-re-front-end&p=210332&viewfull=1#post210332.

Ducky2009

08-21-2017, 02:26 PM

Joel, I adjusted the rear adjustment until it ran out of travel, and achieved 6 degrees caster setting (see pic). Manual steering should be 3, power steering 7 degrees. I left it at 6 degrees. The greater the caster setting, the harder it is to steer into a turn (power steering solves this issue), but the easier the car wheels straighter out after your turn (when you let go of the steering wheel). I purchased a Fasttrax and did my own alignment. Let me know if you want to use it.

This adjustment will bring the wheel back.

72631

Jdav

08-28-2017, 08:39 AM

30 weeks in
No progress this week. I'm at a point where I need a helper to get the body on and off and finalize my interior, but my trusty helper was sick this week. Hopefully I'll get a lot done this week as football season will definitely eat into my cobra time.

wareaglescott

08-28-2017, 12:32 PM

Jdav

09-04-2017, 09:38 PM

31 weeks in
I was able to finish up the majority of my interior.
I had the trans tunnel professionally wrapped in vinyl and a french seam down each edge. I provided the materials and used a UV grade vinyl and 1/8" volera foam that I had bought online. think it looks really nice.
I also wanted the back cockpit wall covered in the same vinyl, but estimates to do it professionally were more than I wanted to spend, so I tried it on my own. We thought about a couple of ways of doing it and settled on first cutting the foam to shape. Then gluing an oversized cut of the vinyl to the foam. We then wrapped the vinyl over the edges of the foam in any place there would be an exposed edge. And finally gluing that piece to the cockpit wall. While its not perfect, I'm really pleased with how it came out and I love the look.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73253&d=1504578527
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73254&d=1504578534
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73255&d=1504578540
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73256&d=1504578546
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73257&d=1504578553
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73258&d=1504578563
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73259&d=1504578570

jdavis500

09-05-2017, 05:04 PM

The vinyl looks awesome! How did you make that happen? Did you give someone dimensions?

Jdav

09-05-2017, 08:01 PM

The vinyl looks awesome! How did you make that happen? Did you give someone dimensions?

For the trans tunnel cover, I just gave them the aluminum panel to wrap - it only took a couple of days. I can give you the guys contact info if you are interested.
For the cockpit wall, we did it all ourselves - first using the carpet as a pattern and then trimming the foam to exact size and wrapping it with the vinyl as described above.

Jdav

09-18-2017, 12:32 PM

33 Weeks in

Week 32 was a wash with travelling to Chicago/South Bend to see the Bulldogs beat Notre Dame and then with Hurricane Irma coming through.
Week 33, however, saw a good bit of progress.
We finished the interior with the rest of the carpet (except the door sills) and mounted the seats.
I also got all of the lights mounted. I did have 1 freak out moment when both the left and right turn signal were activating the left rear light. I had tested everything before putting the body on, but was fearing having to go in reverse. Luckily, it was a dumb mistake that was easily fixed - i had connected the Right turn signal wire and right brake wire from the RF harness to each other and i guess it caused a strange circuit. Once I properly connected the Right turn signal wire to the right turn signal lamp and the right brake wire to the right brake lamp, everything worked.
All I have left is latches and mounting the winshield.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73843&d=1505755725
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73844&d=1505755732
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73845&d=1505755738
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73846&d=1505755744

Straversi

09-18-2017, 12:43 PM

Looking good. The end is in sight.

-Steve

jdavis500

09-18-2017, 03:54 PM

Great progress. Are you planning on tackling registration before paint? It would be nice to get some miles on it prior to bodywork.

Jdav

09-18-2017, 04:23 PM

Great progress. Are you planning on tackling registration before paint? It would be nice to get some miles on it prior to bodywork.

I am. Hopefully I'll be ready for the inspection in the next 2 weeks and get registered in the next month or so. Paint and bodywork will take place over the winter.

wareaglescott

09-18-2017, 08:03 PM

Good so you will be driving it down here November 11th I assume?

bigtedaf08

09-18-2017, 09:36 PM

Hey, nice build man! What was the resolution to the wheel body interference you were having a month or so ago, did that get sorted out?

Jdav

09-19-2017, 08:48 AM

Hey, nice build man! What was the resolution to the wheel body interference you were having a month or so ago, did that get sorted out?

Thanks!
It's better now, but still not perfect. I trimmed a little bit of the rear trunk lip (sheetmetal) and sanded a bit of the body dash lip to move the body a touch forward. But the biggest change was adjusting the wheel alignment. I did it by eye, so they are no where close to what they need to be, but they sit better in the frame. I plan on having a professional alignment very soon (before I put any miles on it) and then, if there is still an issue, Kleiner can fix it when he does my body work ;)

Jdav

09-25-2017, 09:40 PM

34 weeks in
No progress this week, ugh.
I was out of town most of the week. These final few things feel like they are taking forever

Jdav

10-02-2017, 12:39 PM

35 weeks in.
Well, I am basically done. That feels strange to say.
I got the windshield mounted and a few other odds and ends installed. I'm holding off on installing latches to let Kleiner do that along with paint and bodywork - in the meantime I'll duct tape down the hood and trunk. I am aiming to start my registration process this week and hope to have it street legal for a few rides before it gets too cold. My birthday is in 2 weeks, so it sounds like a good present to me :)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74515&d=1506965918

Ducky2009

10-02-2017, 01:35 PM

Looking good Joel. You're getting close!

Jdav

10-05-2017, 03:05 PM

As of today, I am legal!

wareaglescott

10-06-2017, 04:51 AM

Congrats Joel!

Curious how the VIN assignment and registration works in Georgia. What did you have to do?

Jdav

10-06-2017, 08:43 AM

Congrats Joel!

Curious how the VIN assignment and registration works in Georgia. What did you have to do?

Surprisingly easy. I had a police officer come to the house to do a VIN check (surprise, there wasn't one) to confirm it wasn't stolen. Then took that form, the Certificate of Origin and my proof of insurance to the tag office. It took them a little while to figure out how to get everything in the system, but walked out with a tag, registered as a 1965 Factory Five. I chose to not get a title (1. I don't plan on selling and 2. it saves a boatload on taxes and probably some more scrutiny). I believe my serial number is listed as the VIN.
I now plan on buying a vintage 1965 tag and can then submit a form to run that on the car (and just keep the current tag in the trunk).

The tag office supervisor was really nice. Once we got to talking she wanted to see pictures and started showing me pictures of when she visited the Ferrari museum in Italy. I evidently owe her a ride in the cobra.

broku518

10-06-2017, 12:54 PM

Surprisingly easy. I had a police officer come to the house to do a VIN check (surprise, there wasn't one) to confirm it wasn't stolen. Then took that form, the Certificate of Origin and my proof of insurance to the tag office. It took them a little while to figure out how to get everything in the system, but walked out with a tag, registered as a 1965 Factory Five. I chose to not get a title (1. I don't plan on selling and 2. it saves a boatload on taxes and probably some more scrutiny). I believe my serial number is listed as the VIN.
I now plan on buying a vintage 1965 tag and can then submit a form to run that on the car (and just keep the current tag in the trunk).

The tag office supervisor was really nice. Once we got to talking she wanted to see pictures and started showing me pictures of when she visited the Ferrari museum in Italy. I evidently owe her a ride in the cobra.

I see you don't have a title. How can you drive it? I was under impression that you need a title in order to get plates.

Jdav

10-06-2017, 03:00 PM

I see you don't have a title. How can you drive it? I was under impression that you need a title in order to get plates.

Titles are not required in Georgia for vehicles 1985 or older. Since mine is registered as a 1965, I do not need one.

wareaglescott

10-06-2017, 06:09 PM

Very interesting about no title.
How is the timeline for paint looking?

Jdav

10-06-2017, 10:23 PM

Very interesting about no title.
How is the timeline for paint looking?

As soon as Kleiner is ready for me! Hopefully Dec-Feb to have it back for spring.

broku518

10-07-2017, 09:23 AM

Titles are not required in Georgia for vehicles 1985 or older. Since mine is registered as a 1965, I do not need one.

I see, sweet. I am in IL, will have to explore the options next year.

Thanks,
Martin

jdavis500

10-11-2017, 09:27 AM

Can't believe the registration process was that painless. What a relief! Hope I have the same luck.

Jdav

10-16-2017, 10:30 AM

I've put about 25 miles on the car and things are pretty good. I've been doing short rides and haven't gotten over 45mph until i'm confidant everything is working properly.
I had a small coolant leak that I think I have resolved and did get the P0116 code that others with the Coyote have seen. I spoke with Ford and should have something in the mail to fix it.
My only other issue is that my tach isn't working. I did double check that it is calibrated properly (to 4), but it doesn't move at all when the engine revs. I guess I need to run down all my wires and make sure a connection didn't come loose (because I am 99% sure it was working when I first got the engine running), but with the body on I havent got around to it. If anyone has any ideas as to what it could be, I'm all ears.

I did make a 3D printed badge to cover the 5.0 emblem on the engine cover.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75469&d=1508166862
Full pics here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25557-Cobra-air-cleaner-logo-font&p=297939&viewfull=1#post297939

KW33

10-16-2017, 12:38 PM

Is it possible to get a title later if needed for a potential sale?

Jdav

10-16-2017, 01:36 PM

Is it possible to get a title later if needed for a potential sale?

No, at least not in my name in the state of Georgia. A bill of sale would be legal for transfer of the car - I know that would make some buyers uncomfortable, but I don't plan on selling :)

KW33

10-16-2017, 01:54 PM

Thanks. That makes sense.

Jdav

10-16-2017, 06:41 PM

Ducky2009

10-17-2017, 10:03 AM

So after chatting with WarEagleScott, it appears I had the wrong calibration for my tach. It should be at .5 rather than 4. I made that adjustment tonight and it now moves. Idle and revving appear about what they should, but when I turn the car off, it stays at 1000

The gauges stay at the settings being read when you turn the key off. if you turn the key back on, they will go to zero. Not an issue.

Did you get your alignment taken care of? Curious if you could get the 7 degree Caster without modifying the length of the adjuster. I could only achieve 5 degrees, but plan to cut/shorten the adjusters.

Straversi

10-17-2017, 10:15 AM

The gauges stay at the settings being read when you turn the key off. if you turn the key back on, they will go to zero. Not an issue.

Did you get your alignment taken care of? Curious if you could get the 7 degree Caster without modifying the length of the adjuster. I could only achieve 5 degrees, but plan to cut/shorten the adjusters.

Ducky, before you cut, check to see if the adjusting nut is centered. On one of my UCA assemblies, the adjusting nut was spun down one threaded rod about 1/4" before any threads were engaged on the other rod. I don't know if it would have mad e a difference but it seemed like I would have less adjustment.

-Steve

Jdav

10-17-2017, 06:48 PM

The gauges stay at the settings being read when you turn the key off. if you turn the key back on, they will go to zero. Not an issue.

Did you get your alignment taken care of? Curious if you could get the 7 degree Caster without modifying the length of the adjuster. I could only achieve 5 degrees, but plan to cut/shorten the adjusters.

Interesting, I guess I won't worry about it.
I did get my alignment done professionally and they hit my specs: -.5 degrees Camber, 7 degrees caster and .04" toe. I did not cut the arms and I assume they didn't either or else they would have said something.
I went to a place called Gran Turismo East in Chamblee. I know they align a lot of race cars there and came recommend.

Ducky2009

10-22-2017, 12:28 PM

Ducky, before you cut, check to see if the adjusting nut is centered. On one of my UCA assemblies, the adjusting nut was spun down one threaded rod about 1/4" before any threads were engaged on the other rod. I don't know if it would have mad e a difference but it seemed like I would have less adjustment.

-Steve

Steve,
I unbolted the adjusting link from both ends and screwed ends in all the way, then reattached. Still to long to achieve 7 degrees. Not sure what other people are experiencing.
Thanks
David

Straversi

10-22-2017, 01:10 PM

Steve,
I unbolted the adjusting link from both ends and screwed ends in all the way, then reattached. Still to long to achieve 7 degrees. Not sure what other people are experiencing.
Thanks
David

Hopefully someone with more experience can offer suggestions. I’m a first timer and don’t have any miles to prove that what I have done is correct. I’ll be watching this for suggestions myself.
-Steve

Jdav

10-23-2017, 09:23 AM

I got to take my parents on their first ride on Sunday. It was great seeing them with wide smiles the whole time.
I couldn't ask for better parents and they also helped out a bit financially with the project. One of the reasons I pulled the trigger so quickly after starting my research is to ensure my Dad would still be around to enjoy it. He didn't end up helping with the build quite as much as I had anticipated, the joy on his face yesterday was what I was looking for.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75785&d=1508768239

I'm still chasing down a small coolant leak. I have the breeze lower radiator hoses and it appears to be coming from where the rubber hose meets the aluminum tube, I've confirmed my worm clap is tight and even disconnected and reconnected the hoses to make sure the flare was seated properly. Still leaking and not sure what else to try.

bigtedaf08

11-04-2017, 10:28 AM

Random question; Are you planning on a hood scoop or not? I know that's still gel coat, but that picture above looks really clean without.

sbhunter

11-05-2017, 07:52 PM

Jdav

11-06-2017, 09:42 AM

Random question; Are you planning on a hood scoop or not? I know that's still gel coat, but that picture above looks really clean without.

I am going to have the hood scoop added when the paint/bodywork gets done, but I know of several guys on here who chose not to. Personal preference, but to me the scoop makes the car look more aggressive while no scoop is a bit more refined.

Jdav

11-06-2017, 09:44 AM

Enjoying the build thread. Ordering my kit next week. It wouldn’t be the prettiest solution but as a farmer I often put a second clamp on hoses to stop leaks. Rotate the clamps 180 degrees from each other.

Thanks, I just got under the car and cranked a little harder on the clamp and it seems to be solved. I'm at 125 miles now, so I think I'm good for now.

Jdav

11-06-2017, 09:53 AM

I took the car to Caffeine & Octane (https://www.caffeineandoctane.com/) yesterday. I've been attending for about a year now, but this was the first time I've been able to bring the roadster. It was great to meet a few other owners and prospective owners and generally show off the car - I do have to say it was a bit intimidating to put your work out there on display (especially in when its still in gel coat and I had duct tape holding the trunk and hood on). I got a lot more questions about the coyote engine than I expected, and only 1 "is it real?". My fiancee was there (she helped a good bit along the way) and was able to talk about the build as well - I was pleased that she felt pride in it as well and that car guys respected her enough to talk to her about it. I said early on that the social aspect of driving a car like this was not something I was looking forward to, but it wasn't so bad :)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76452&d=1509979212
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76451&d=1509979206
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76450&d=1509979198

Yama-Bro

11-06-2017, 01:22 PM

Looks good. Is your hood still the same size as it was when you received it from FFR or did you do some trimming?

Jdav

11-06-2017, 03:46 PM

Looks good. Is your hood still the same size as it was when you received it from FFR or did you do some trimming?

I have not done any trimming - it is slightly larger than the opening, but close enough that it works for gelcoat driving.

Yama-Bro

11-07-2017, 08:47 AM

For driving around, did you attach it with the hinges or did you just tape it with duct tape, like you said?

Jdav

11-07-2017, 10:15 AM

For driving around, did you attach it with the hinges or did you just tape it with duct tape, like you said?

Trunk is attached to the hinges, but not trimmed or aligned and the latch is not installed - it is held down by tape.
Hood is just resting on the body lip and taped down on all 4 sides, not attached to hinges and latches are not installed.
I figure I'll only be driving for a month or so before sending off for bodywork, so i'd deal with this to ensure that the hinges and latches are in the right place once the body is adjusted.

Yama-Bro

11-07-2017, 01:22 PM

Trunk is attached to the hinges, but not trimmed or aligned and the latch is not installed - it is held down by tape.
Hood is just resting on the body lip and taped down on all 4 sides, not attached to hinges and latches are not installed.
I figure I'll only be driving for a month or so before sending off for bodywork, so i'd deal with this to ensure that the hinges and latches are in the right place once the body is adjusted.

Sounds good. I'd be worried it would blow off, but you must not have had any problems.

Jdav

11-24-2017, 05:49 PM

60 degrees and sunny sounded like a nice day for a ride. It's been a couple of weeks since I had driven her, but she started on the first turn of the key and ran smooth for a 20mi trip around town. I'm at 155 miles now.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77058&d=1511563613

Jdav

12-11-2017, 10:33 PM

As previously mentioned, I am running vintage 1965 plates on the car. As such, I didn't want to have to trim them at all. I did the Kleiner lens mod, but it still looked like i was going to have to trim a bit and I didnt really like how the light was covering a good bit of the plate.
So, I found this light on Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDD-820-0375C and fabbed up a new plate bracket to mount it to.
The plate now clears the trunk handle and sits fully below the light. the light doesnt fill out the complete flat spot on the trunk, but it doesnt bother me and I like the end result better then other options.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77705&d=1513049082
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77704&d=1513049074
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77703&d=1513049066

Jdav

12-24-2017, 12:09 PM

I decided to make a little bling for the engine compartment - filling the indentations of the coyote valve covers with some polished aluminum strips.
I took a thin aluminum flat and ripped it down to a 1/4" width, cut to length and then shaped the ends on a grinder. Then I went at it with steel wool/1500 grit/2000 grid and a polish disk on the dremel. I may do a bit more polishing before I permanently install (with double back tape).

In progress (top is polished, bottom is not yet)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78171&d=1514134552

Driver's side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78173&d=1514134572

Passenger side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78172&d=1514134561

wareaglescott

12-24-2017, 05:31 PM

Looks good Joel. Merry Christmas

Jdav

01-08-2018, 12:58 PM

I have decided to switch over to the Breeze roll bars, so I have a few roll bar items up for sale in the classified section: Chrome driver side bar, 2 sets of Tangent hidden mounts and 2 sets of Russ Thompson polished trim rings.
Let me know if you are interested.

Jdav

01-30-2018, 08:47 PM

Week 52

It's hard to believe that it was 1 year ago today that my kit was dropped off. And now I sit with a completed car (minus bodywork and paint) with 247 miles on it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80111&d=1517362520
Not much of an actual update, but I couldn't let the anniversary pass without notice.
I did get those little aluminum strips professionally polished that I made to dress up the coyote valve covers. I think it sets it off just right now (I still plan on painting the stripe on the engine cover blue to match the body).
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80112&d=1517362529
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80110&d=1517362506
I also had my new breeze roll bars polished and they look beautiful. I still need to get the 3rd leg welded on and then I'll have the polisher touch it up.

I'll ship her off to Kleiner for paint soon and should be fully graduated by spring!

Jdav

03-05-2018, 02:45 PM

I haven't posted on my thread in a while.
I'm still waiting on paint and bodywork.
I did add the turnbuckle mod to support the j-pipes as one of mine cracked (granted I didn't have the sidepipes supported for a while). And I also replaced the FFR provided brake pads with the Hawk HPS+ - I have found them to be a big improvement. I also ran down a coolant leak; it was coming from my heater bypass. It looked like it was coming from the quick connectors after I turned the engine off. I looked back in my thread and receipts and I cant tell where I got my quick connectors from, which concerned me that I may have got the wrong ones and/or low quality ones. So I ordered some new Gates (Gates 28504) ones (once again following EdwardB). When I put them on they immediately felt much more secure and no subsequent leaks.

We had a Caffeine and Octane event and I took the car up there (3rd time). It was another great experience and ran into a few forum members. It was a beautiful day here for a drive (although a bit chilly at 6:30am).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82063&d=1520279034