Making progress on my build...

[beeman]

I really got started on my GTM build a little over a year ago, some planning occurred before that.
I knew that the FFR kit was a great basis to build into my ideal car. Initially I thought this would be a few tweaks here and there (dropping the nose, shortening overhangs, improving front airflow, improving driver position/forward visibility, etc), but I kept wanting more.
This build is not meant to be disrespectful to the FFR GTM design. It is a beautiful car. I simply felt that I PERSONALLY wanted something in the spirit of the GTM but with some personal modifications for comfort, aesthetics, and even a couple areas that I feel will improve performance (both driver and vehicle).
There have been twists and turns and wasted months along the way. I'm at the point where I am sure of the plan and am inching my way towards that goal.
Still a lot of work left, but it has become more enjoyable now that I am not going in a bunch of different directions and 'spinning my tires' trying to figure out some tough decisions.
I'm open to advice and criticism. My day to day occupation has nothing to do with cars, machines, or anything of that sort. I did build a FFR roadster prior to the GTM. I have a passion for cars and am self-taught in this arena.

I started simple, removing a few pieces that didn't fit my build plan.

http://i57.tinypic.com/33vop37.jpg

http://s2.postimg.org/aw4ptwei1/20151009_092032.jpg

Then I decided the footbox had to be moved, so I cut out the pedal box.

http://s13.postimg.org/w6qtgyd3b/20151113_155826.jpg

Things got serious when I removed the roll cage

http://i63.tinypic.com/fpct4k.jpg

http://s10.postimg.org/lmhm8yqp5/20151218_111222.jpg

[beeman]

The concept was to keep the GTM chassis but find a suitable OEM donor cabin. OEM windshield, OEM quality side windows that seal when you roll them up. And some way to drop the top on sunny days.
I wasted a lot of time going back and forth between the 2nd generation MR2 with t-tops and an 03 Celica with a power moonroof. Both had sleek designs but both had flaws when applied to this project.

http://s23.postimg.org/x53th6qdn/20151213_175524_1.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160112/xswcksuq.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160123/prpime6g.jpg

http://s4.postimg.org/yk22fz80t/20151017_180943.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/rwl4zr.jpg

[beeman]

I had to move the foot box forward and create a new firewall. I utilized 1/8" steel plate for the firewall. I incorporated modified Toyota pedals, converted from OEM hanging style to floor mounted. Utilizing C5 Corvette brake booster/master cylinder, Toyota 5/8" clutch master cylinder, Corvette fly by wire gas pedal converted to floor mounted. Driver footbox extended with sheetmetal into tunnel area, cooling lines will run outside the car similar to the 818.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160214/55slxyxx.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160213/83p8sjq2.jpg

Clutch pedal converted to floor mount

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/4bb65vza.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/nwsldhmk.jpg

Corvette booster with shortened piston rod, fashioned a 1/2" aluminum spacer.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160111/uwlws6jb.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/takqxyoa.jpg

[beeman]

Pedals moved quite a bit forward, but remain well behind front axle line. Borrowed some space from within the rear lower control arm mount ears for the clutch pedal mount.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160324/j9qv7986.jpg

Booster looks crooked, but is in line with driver right foot axis.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160324/t82td9wj.jpg

Game of millimeters!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160324/aojfeowx.jpg

Plenty of room for my size 13's. Floor chassis rail between the brake and clutch is in a great location, not even noticed in driving position.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160324/9z2oc4yq.jpg

[beeman]

Finally bought a tube bender this past August, should have bought it sooner.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161026/w2brzso9.jpg

In August, I found a donor that finally worked. Lightweight aluminum targa roof. More ideal side windows for the shape of the planned doors. Easy transition from roof to rear end.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161026/jwxrtbi7.jpg

[beeman]

In October, had the donor parts off the donor chassis and began fitting them to the GTM chassis. I eventually would get the alignment perfect.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161027/dkkywn39.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161030/7g6lsgv2.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161104/u5fda9ii.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161104/kndq9ml4.jpg

Difference in B-pillar location, 15" forward. Rear bodywork is slid back to get it out of the way, pay no attention to it.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161104/chw5qbwl.jpg

Began to build up the roll cage.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161113/iukaekwb.jpg

[beeman]

I had issues with the stock GTM roll cage being right next to the side of my head in the driving position, I'm 6'3". That really bothered me, I think my head would have exploded if I got T-boned.
I decided to do something like the Ultima GTR roof structure.

http://www.ultimagtr640.com/ultimagtr640/DSCF2730.JPG

11-13-2016
I designed the upper bars to curve up into the targa top recess for even more headroom.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161113/s3t883b3.jpg

11-18-2016
To aid in triangulation, I designed the bars to diverge 16" (8" each side) from back to front

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161118/fvn2jo7n.jpg

In driving position, I don't believe there is any way - even trying - for my head (even with a helmet) to hit the roll cage.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161118/yoc3qwr7.jpg

12-03-2016
After building the cage from DOM tubing, I prepared the chassis with tack welds to be delivered to a fabrication shop for safe welding of the structure. The shop I used builds and races tube frame Mustangs. Additional triangulation is planned for the future.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/161204/u2wm4327.jpg

[beeman]

01-01-2017
Dropped the chassis off at the fabricator the week before Christmas, got it back the week after Christmas.
Made little pieces of the puzzle with the chop saw/notcher/grinder to tie donor parts into the roll cage. A little tedious but I love this crap.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170101/du8dcwrw.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170101/k7nhw5dz.jpg

01-07-2017
One challenge was tying the rear GTM bodywork into the donor cabin structure. Decided to hinge the rear hatch at the level of the back edge of the targa seal. All metal bodywork has been removed from the rear and sides of the b-pillar structure, deep unibody left on sides to tie the side/rear GTM fiberglass into.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170107/ep74bgou.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170107/es9g92xm.jpg

[tucker298]

Love it, this is one heck of project! a lot of people have made GTM's with their own style but this will hopefully push creativity for future builders. Cant wait to see how close it ends up to your rendering.

[beeman]

01-12-2017
Here is the welded chassis after an etch prime, you can see the body tie-ins for the windshield and roof structures.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170112/4gcrgk3p.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170112/cyouhfii.jpg

01-13-2017
Donor parts welded on for good.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170113/52j7jbos.jpg

[The Stig]

Whoa...! And you thought I was holding back information...

This will be fun to follow.

Mike

[beeman]

01-14-2017
Took her in for an initial alignment. Didn't want to touch the body work until I knew where the wheels should be.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170114/laxreszm.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170114/gnni9m27.jpg

No brakes yet. Couldn't get an accurate caster reading without ability to lock the front brakes! So we went with the maximum caster that the components allowed, will have to recheck that in the future.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170114/u79574hy.jpg

I like the stance, about 4.5" front, 5 1/8" rear. May play with that a little when completed.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170114/byvotwxw.jpg

[beeman]

01-15-2017
Nice to be moving forward, I missed my clecos!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170115/e35duwcw.jpg

Fitting GTM fiberglass. Plumb bobs, levels, and lasers...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170115/g3s6lf9d.jpg

Basic shape is there, I'm thinking she has some potential!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170115/wn7gavjm.jpg

Larger rear hatch

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170115/p3ocfbov.jpg


I like the flow of the roofline into the rear end. As you can see, there isn't a huge difference in roof height compared to standard GTM.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170115/chro2k98.jpg

[Gromit]

A most ambitious project for sure.. What winshield Glass and targa top donor did you end up with ?
I can definitely see the targa as a cool option for a GTM. of course I need to be careful and not say it to many times... according to Wikipedia The term was first used on the 1966 Porsche 911 Targa, and it remains a registered trademark of Porsche AG. So I won't say it again... well maybe

Targa very cool indeed.

Chris AKA Gromit

[Brett33]

based on color and styling my guess is the Honda Del Sol

Brett

[beeman]

Yep, Del Sol it is. Featherweight, aluminum roof, narrow cockpit. Cabin tilted back about 2 degrees compared to stock del sol.

[dallas_]

Very cool!
I wish all your photos were showing up. Many just show as a X (at least for me).

[Blast3r0]

Love the targa!

[beeman]

Anyone else having trouble seeing the pictures?
Working on the interior.. Not quite plug and play!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170120/h6nfstoo.jpg

Nothing is off the table, this may help me with shrinking the front end. I will probably modify the intakes if it is incorporated.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170120/2jllz4ti.jpg

[crash]

I can see them! :)

What's the nose from? Almost looks RX-7ish? A little tall maybe for that.

[beeman]

Actually MR2 spyder. About 6" shorter than GTM fascia believe it or not. I understand the GTM design harks back to the original GT40, so I understand the long nose. Just looking for something different. Goal is not just appearance, but also better forward visibility.

Key goal all along has been forward visibility. I have achieved this. You can see where the tires are, will obviously have fenders above them, but central hood will remain low and sloping. Gauge cluster will reside in same housing with different gauges and indicators.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170120/pwjew8ca.jpg

Now that I have the dash location, I need to find a home for this guy...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170120/hrr6wp5i.jpg

[crash]

Those electric PS units, while fine for street applications, tend to have overheating issues on the race track. Just a heads up.

[beeman]

I had not heard that... Is that even with the assist dialed way down? I plan to track it 2-3 times a year for high-performance driving, not wheel-to-wheel.. it is the GM unit from The Vue / torrent. I would have the ability to turn it completely off without much increased resistance if that would help protect it on the track.

[crash]

My experiences are with two competitors that had them and both experienced issues that made the cars undrivable. They put cooling fins and dedicated air cooling ducts to them and the issues seemed to go away, but I thought I would mention it as a heads up. From talking to them it sounds like something gets hot, expands, and then locks the steering. Not fun at speed. I think they were using the Unisteer and/or the Flaming River units.

[beeman]

Unrelated update, got my roadster back from the painter this morning, I absolutely love it!! And right on budget (plus a nice tip of course)!
Porsche Mexico Blue, baby!!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170121/ojmt9yyl.jpg

[RoadRacer]

This GTM is the best build I've seen here - well done. I've done some wacky things like this in the past - round tube frame under a 'glass 55 chevy with 383 sbc - I love the one-off's where you're making it how you like it.

BTW, the roofline/glass of the GTM is the only reason I don't like it - this is MUCH prettier imo. Very impressed.

[tucker298]

Classy color choices on the Roadster Beeman!

[WIS89]

Bee-

I like the roadster color choices! The GTM is amazing! Mad skills to be sure!!

I have deep respect for those that have the vision and skills to do work like you are doing.

I look forward to following along; awesome stuff!!

Regards,

Steve

[beeman]

Appreciate the kind words, guys!

[beeman]

Here is where this donor chassis is really cooperative. The split side window gives me critical emptiness in the forward/lower door to allow for me to push the cab way forward. Most cars have window tracks that extend all the way down to the lower front corner of the door. Big reason I abandoned the other 2 chassis. Love the squeaky tight seal so far!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170122/kp59j5g5.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170122/qnfpbvpf.jpg

[beeman]

Airtight side windows and cabin... It's glorious!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170122/vxnyh72y.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170122/ymlcf2n5.jpg

[beeman]

I've been looking at many options for hinging the door. Standard front hinges are not an option obviously, I'd have to mount them to the front wheel. Universal Lambo door hinges also reside in the typical front fender area. My best options would be butterfly style hinges vs suicide hinges, and I'm not really interested in suicide doors. I have looked at OEM options including McLaren. They are a little complex but do-able, and tuck under the base of the A-pillar essentially.
One option I recently stumbled upon are the hinges on the Le Mans Ford GT. Certainly not something you'd find on a high $$ factory car, I'm pretty sure the factory Ford GT does not have these simple hinges. But they are perfect for a car like mine. And I actually like the simple, utilitarian design. It should be as simple as getting the geometry right, the axis of the hinge appears to be just out of line with the slope of the A-pillar. The Ford GT design looks like it slides on and off with a couple retaining pins. Let me know if you guys have any ideas for the hinge interface, I don't even think there are bearings on this design?

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170123/xty45frn.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170123/gmhxmsmg.jpg

[crash]

All you need is two points in a relative straight line. Then use rod ends to take up any minor alignment issues. This is what we did on the FFR PDG GTM race car. You can also put them inside the car, which is what I am doing on the GTMR.

[beeman]

I appreciate that tip, Crash. The rod ends are smart, I might have to borrow that idea. Do you get much up/down wobble with them? I'm guessing the tolerances are tight enough that it isn't an issue. With the door open, how much up/down play do you have?
Each of my donor chassis doors had alignment guides below the latch that help get the alignment perfect as the door latch comes into the striker, basically to remove any minor play in the hinge. I procured them for my build. I think they are a great way to ensure a straight door closure. Del Sol's have them, not sure about other cars.
Here's a pic of one.

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0366/9149/products/IMG_3394_08b6043b-5e54-477b-b5dd-24a5b42e621f_grande.JPG

Here's a pic of the door, you can see the male part of the guide on the lower door.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d90/bluebyu/dynamat.jpg

[crash]

Making the doors half doors because we have fuel cells on the lower areas of the doors, it necessitated that we remove the inner parts of the doors. Therefore we were left with just a door "sheet" so we made a 3/4" steel door frame to regain some rigidity. The biggest issue we have had is with getting the door to align the striker consistently. It isn't really a problem if you adjust just to close from the outside, or just to close from the inside, but to get the doors to do both is a bit of a challenge. While the rod ends are slightly lose when the door is open, they are such that they snug up when the door is latched. Using nylocks on the rod end through bolts allows for that adjustment as well.

Rigidity probably won't be an issue for you. Lifting the door, OTOH will be. We use gas shocks so all we have to do is hit the latch lever and the door "pops" open. I would suggest something like this for your setup as your door will be pretty heavy with all that glass and steel.

[beeman]

Yeah I'll definitely use a gas shock to bring the door up. Donor door is about 65-70 pounds fresh off the car as I recall (that is light by OEM standards). I'm probably at about 30 lbs with glass right now, I'll weigh it. Goal will be around 35 pounds or so. OEM doors are so freaking heavy, but they contain collision protection bars, in addition to a lot of structural and cosmetic steel. My door bars will be part of the frame and won't have to open/close.

[beeman]

Going to try a constant radius OEM style hinge just for fun. This would tuck under the a-pillar when closed and travel nicely through a cosmetic slot.
Drew something up in CAD, will print it out and see how it functions. Actual hinge would be thicker, this is just a quick mockup for proof of concept.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170124/6xyoqplb.jpg

So the actual hinge would be something more like this, just takes a lot longer to print and uses a lot more filament. I'm just curious about functionality at this point..

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170124/36v97vvl.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170125/o9rnissd.jpg

[Jacob McCrea]

This is one of the best things I've seen on the board to date. Carry on!

[beeman]

Weighed the door without the side window in, 18.8lbs.

Getting ready to cut the hood to move the rear part of the hood onto the door, planned cut is similar to other butterfly door parting lines. Need to verify axis of hinge rotation first.

C-X75
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6DfuWB2dWU/maxresdefault.jpg

mp4 12c
http://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/dam/assets/131106054125-mclaren-mp4-12c-1024x576.jpg

Leaning towards borrowing ideas from the Jaguar.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J09B-rt7fxQ/Vjfu44KJiEI/AAAAAAAAOTM/3j9lKo9irh4/s1600/Jaguar-c-x75-Massa-3.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170127/zmh35b26.jpg

Of note, I am fitting everything with Corvette 245/45-17 tires with an overall diameter of 25.68 inches ; actual tires will have a little more clearance, 245/35-18 at diameter of 24.75"...

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170127/n52gc3v5.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170127/dgjupe2b.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Are you going to have room for scissor hinges?

[beeman]

Yes, around 99% sure (edit- yes, definitely). I started mocking up a hinge this afternoon, I'll post a quick picture here to give you an idea. Basically had to figure out the axis of the hinge/pivot point. This was based on images from multiple cars with butterfly doors. I then took this as close to the inner fender, as far forward as the hinge would allow. I then created a hinge from 1.5" square from that pivot point to the front edge of the door. Now I just need to attach the pivot point shroud to the chassis below the a pillar. Looks like it should work. Grabbing Chinese food, enough for today.
This pic was earlier in the process, didn't take any more. Initially I made a 90 degree dogleg in the plane of the pivot bolt, this wasn't right, so I removed some tack welds and fixed it. The hinge basically is angled in 2 planes.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/4rroomyi.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Right on. If you need any more photos or tips, let me know.

You should be miles ahead with having the door flush with the hood/fender, as opposed to inset.

[beeman]

I've had much worse first attempts! I'd like to tweak the angle a little, slightly more horizontal arc of motion. This came out more like a vertical door than a butterfly door.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/q28wiovc.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/nrzbipqg.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/pcxeew49.jpg

[beeman]

Version 2.0
Complete redesign with Toyota door hinge.
I think it's perfect.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/irx4oaf6.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/z3i86gjw.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/w4d33m9o.jpg

Yes it clears the fender nicely!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170128/rxzc46pg.jpg

Not too different from its inspiration...

http://cdn-7.motorsport.com/images/amp/68QnKm90/s6/lemans-24-hours-of-le-mans-2016-67-ford-chip-ganassi-racing-ford-gt.jpg

[beeman]

So I've been thinking about the best way to hinge the doors with a rock-solid hinge system, and realized that I'd seen something similar to the Ford GT race car hinges somewhere before...Underneath my Honda Foreman!
Is there much play in the bushings on these? Maybe too much play? Been thinking about this, maybe the sleeve bushings allow too much play, I'll check into that.

Not these specifically, but something like it.

http://cyclenetparts.com/images/items2/c12/SAM_6187_b06d50.JPG

http://www.bcsperformance.com/images/Yamaha/Y319/DSC00040.JPG

[crash]

I think you will find range of motion an issue on those...unless you don't tighten the through bolts down and let the inners rotate on the bolts.

[beeman]

OK, back to the electric power steering. Using an Equinox column. Lower shaft installation appears to be fairly straight forward. Looked at mating the C5 upper tilt column to the EPAS, not a great option. I'm not upset by that, because the C5 tilt system is insanely heavy and has that stupid column lock. Going to use the tilt column from the Equinox..how exotic! Then I ran into an issue finding a 6-bolt (Momo) hub adapter that works with the Equinox. Most GM steering hubs are 3/4" 36 spline. This one is 5/8" 36 spline. I could not find ANY hub adapter from Momo, NRG, etc. anywhere for a 5/8" 36 spline. That changed this morning. Found a place out of Arizona that makes all sorts of hub adapters, billet aluminum. Looks like a quality piece. They build a 5/8" 36 spline for AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE MK1/2 1958-64 ; MG MIDGET MK1(SLIDING WINDOW CAR) 1961-64. Sweet! And about half the price of a Momo/NRG hub adapter, $48 with free priority shipping.
Should have it in a few days. EPAS unit fits well in the footbox.
http://www.flashpowerparts.com/en/austin-healey-leyland/139-flashpower-steering-wheel-adapter-6-bolt-billet-black.html

[dallas_]

Good progress, keep posting!

[beeman]

Waiting for packages to arrive, got bored. Saw the Sawzall laying there.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170203/63zk7brx.jpg

Anyone adamantly opposed to me incorporating this fascia? Speak now or forever hold your peace...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170203/9u4bx2fn.jpg

[beeman]

OK, figured I should have a real crash structure up front. Going with 1.5" DOM. Tube bender was feeling neglected. Funny, 'Dead Man's Curve" by Jan and Dean playing now on Pandora. When I was building my roadster, I enjoyed listening to the stuff Carroll listened to when he was out in his shop. That has carried over to my GTM build. Takes me back to a time when guys were building no-nonsense muscle cars, and the next champion could come out of anyone's garage.

Getting started :
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/ullcayut.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170203/dyyl2d6o.jpg

Edit: notching is a necessary evil. Really messy with the cutting oil... In this pic, the wheel is in full lock to verify clearance.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/9f493xva.jpg

[beeman]

Here's a basic photoshop of this fascia on a GTM without modifying any of the intakes...couple colors...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/vlu8amlx.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/v2ltebmh.jpg

[dallas_]

Interesting. Might help to see what you plan for headlights.
What is that fascia from?

[beeman]

The fascia is from an mr2 spyder, what do you think of it?
I actually have 5 different OEM headlights in the shop that I have gathered over the past year, each has its pros/cons. I'm leaning towards an HID projector setup from a superbike :cool:

Since you asked politely, Dallas, here is a sneak peek:

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/7w57l835.jpg

[WIS89]

Bee-

I like the new fascia. I also like your colors; no chance of not seeing you coming! One thing that I think makes a big difference with how these cars look, is complementary, or even contrasting colors. Things like painting the screens or intakes black, or a contrasting stripe make a big difference.

I like the headlights in the above pic. I also think the new trend of the line of LED lights looks awesome on the GTM.

Mad skills by the way! This is a very cool build, and I respect the work you are doing!

Regards,

Steve

[beeman]

Thanks Steve! Yeah I agree about the contrasting colors, the photoshops above are not predictive of my planned paint, just wanted to throw the fascia on the GTM shape.
Slowly but surely, the complex intersections are a nightmare to get notched correctly...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/hj8299m8.jpg

Update, got the upper crash structure tacked in collinear with GTM chassis to 1/16" and 0.1 degrees. Will fit the radiator before building lower structure. Upper edge of center of structure 19.25" off the ground.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/hy9ut5ch.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170204/cres8q9r.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170205/h6alrjz3.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170205/ndy8lccb.jpg

[dallas_]

I think whichever front clip you go with, you'll make it look great.
There are things about both that I like, such as the vertical slits at the front wheels on the original clip.

By the way, the roadster looks fantastic!

[beeman]

Getting the radiator mocked up. I can angle it from vertical to horizontal... I'm thinking angle it as close as possible to the path of airflow exit? Still trying to decide whether to exit at hood or vented wheel wells. All airflow before and after the radiator with be completely sealed (I think this is critical for high speed aerodynamic efficiency, not to mention cooling efficiency). Any thoughts on which is better (hood vent vs send to wheel wells)?
This is a Champion radiator for a Cherokee. My calculations suggest it will be more than adequate. I have plenty of room for a size upgrade if needed down the road.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170206/h9hmdk4g.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

I think wheel wells might offer an easier escape as the cowl seal is imperitive for keeping rain water out of the front end.

I'm thinking GTM however and your front end is no longer equal.

[beeman]

Do you mean keeping water out from the front fascia or from the wheel wells? Where does the GTM typically draw air for cabin HVAC? Typically OEM setups have vents at the base of the windshield to take advantage of the high pressure area there. I plan a smooth transition from hood to windshield. Climate control air will come in through one of the front fascia openings (probably) vs a hood NACA duct.

[beeman]

Getting column mocked up for installation.
Will retain tilt function... If there's enough room! I mean I might want it as high as it can be all the time.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170210/mp4pymcu.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170210/fmzkp3gx.jpg

[carbon fiber]

The two pieces of tubing you have going from the frame to your front facia look dangerous. They're aimed right at the two occupants and it seems to me, IMHO, that with an impact they might enter the cabin. There's no real crush zone with heavy tubing the way you have it. You might want to redesign or maybe use a thin wall tubing and drill some holes through them like the front end tubing on the 818. Just a heads up.

[beeman]

Thanks for the feedback, always open to comments!
I do plan on additional DOM tubing tied into the backbone, do you think that is enough?

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170210/nymhq3qa.jpg

[carbon fiber]

double post

[carbon fiber]

63875It's that the two tubes are too stout for the job, and there's no real "crush zone". That design transfers too much energy straight into the frame. You need to use something strong enough to hold up the front end but weak enough to crumble in an impact. It would probably be easiest to use thin wall square stock to build the front sub-frame.63876

[beeman]

I understand what you are saying. I wasn't going to triangulate the front structure, so it would buckle in a collision. Maybe I should redo it.
To me, the front tubing that FFR uses on the GTM seemed too wimpy to protect the cabin in a high speed collision. Does anyone agree, or is it more than adequate? I think it's 3/4"?
I also felt like the supplied front structure would ramp a colliding vehicle up towards the cabin... So I tried to create a higher structure that was more robust. I live in the land of pickup trucks and whitetails!
What does everyone think?

[beeman]

I just looked this situation over. The DOM tube we are referring to measures 25". If a collision drove that tubing in completely, it would end up at the level of the gauge cluster. More likely, an intrusion would occur to the level of the frame between the suspensions, an intrusion of 17". This would potentially drive the DOM tube to the mid-dash level. With the additional triangulation, I guess I would be surprised if the DOM was drive in like that rather than be end up deformed.
It wouldn't be much work to redo it in small square stock, but I don't want to go wimpy...
Thoughts?

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170211/si25e2k5.jpg

[beeman]

Big gains on the EPAS this morning. The donor lower shaft (when disassembled) is a steel rod, about 0.80". I called up a machine shop this morning (Saturday!), about an hour and $20 later, had this machined to 3/4" double-d.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170211/teepnyct.jpg

If you look at the FFR lower shaft, the splines are simply attached to a double-d stub by a couple set screws.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170211/ywebdpd2.jpg

Now I have a nice (collapsible for safety!) lower shaft. Donor splined coupler/male double-d >female double-d shaft >male double-d /FFR splines >rack.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170211/vhucesid.jpg

Really happy with this. Thought I was going to go nuts finding couplers, also thought I was going to lose collapsiblility.

[beeman]

Got a little sidetracked earlier, bought a cafe bike project. Don't plan to do much with it until the GTM is done!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170212/2mmq7i2z.jpg

Going for something like this

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170212/8zfojnvf.jpg

Got the EPAS about 80% installed, everything in, just have to finish welding. Removed the tilt function, going with a fixed mount.

[beeman]

Tacked in more frame. Had to wait until steering installed before this beam could be placed.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170212/ihdib4nu.jpg

[beeman]

The EPAS is mounted in 2 locations, at the motor housing and at the stationary housing over the upper steering shaft. Neither of these locations worked easily for my build. I fashioned a bracket from square stock to mount it at the motor housing location. The upper mount was not as easy for me to figure out. The chassis tube is not perpendicular to the steering shaft, off by 10-15 degrees. I also needed to make sure that the mounts would not trap the EPAS in the frame should it need to be serviced. I rummaged through the junk hardware and found a solution. Welded it up, works perfectly.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170215/4bcifbtg.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170215/xce6oahf.jpg

Ordered 4 of these, they are 4.75" long weld-on barrel hinges. I'll cut them down in similar fashion to the Ford GT door hinges.

https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/H/P/HP12412G_1000.jpg

[beeman]

Per concerns discussed above, moved the front collision structure down to the mid aspect of the front chassis. Maintained same height at front bar ~19.25" (which I think is an excellent bumper height for a car this low!)

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170215/z267uf34.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170215/yo494t2l.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

The amount of talent on this site is outstanding. This is by far the most radical build I've come across and likely ever will...unless someone decides to redesign the rollcage and body from ground up!
Imagine a 'dream team' of FFR members building a car one day. :cool:

Anything you can do for safety is a step in the right direction. I often wonder if I'd ever walk away from a head-on or side collision at regular speeds inside of this car. Staring at the lug nuts of a big rig
passing by at eye-level is motivation for taking extra time to make it right!

[dallas_]

Looking good beeman! Rock on bro. :)

[beeman]

Wondering how my bumper height compares to what I may be running into out there...
Bumper height laws are state specific. No minimum height, but lots of maximum allowed front bumper heights, ranging from 20-24 inches or so. Interesting.

http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/bumper-height/

But it sounds like Federal laws mandate a minimal height of 16". This probably does not apply to a built vehicle.

To meet federal rules, car bumpers must be 16 to 20 inches off the ground and limit the amount of damage that can be sustained in a low-speed crash. The idea is to ensure that the bumpers on colliding cars engage, absorbing most of the energy of the impact
http://www.iihs.org/iihs/news/desktopnews/federal-bumper-rules-should-apply-to-suvs-pickups-vans-and-cars-alike

[dallas_]

I've never heard of bumper height being an issue getting a custom car registered and titled.
Not to say that some states might make that part of their process.

[beeman]

Yeah I don't think that they would even check that at inspection, I was just wondering where my bumper would meet the average oncoming car.
I measured where 19.25" met my F150, was surprised to see that it was right in the meat of the bumper, at the lower 1/3.

[beeman]

Getting ready to create a hood. Then will merge the FFR and aftermarket front end.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170217/sfltpljq.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170218/d9isyizn.jpg

[dallas_]

You remind me of Hoofa.

But yours will probably get finished. :)

[beeman]

I'm in too deep to not finish this! I've ensured that by making the resale value about zero!
Actually have 2 track weekends scheduled, M1 Concourse in July and Gingerman in September. Hope to bring this with the roadster.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170219/l73fcqwz.jpg

[beeman]

Rough shape is there. Disregard headlight openings.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170219/35iakos7.jpg

[claybags]

SAWZALL....... the wonder tool...duzitall . looking good !!!!
Cheers, Jeff

[crash]

Oh the memories!

64290

[dallas_]

Dang, you guys and your Sawzalls!!

[beeman]

I like the shape of your hood, Crash. I went simple, Diablo style.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4934236114_4dce1a4470.jpg

I'm sure you are completely innocent, dallas!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170221/7wojpsjo.jpg

[dallas_]

Hey, I used a little cutoff wheel for that. :)

[beeman]

Hey, I used a little cutoff wheel for that. :)

You apparently have a lot more patience (and probably finesse) than me!

[beeman]

EDIT: This sway bar technique didn't work well, back to the drawing board.
Got a couple things done today. GTM lower A-arm mounts are 3" narrower than C5. Removed 3" from center of anti sway bar, had the weld shop stick it back together (he used 1/2" solid rod as a core at the repair site). At this point, I don't do structural welds.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170225/zkq3xn28.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170225/lq3ht3a9.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170225/c7vp7lwf.jpg

I pretty much got the EBCM mounted (I believe this is where the build manual tells you to mount it), will be bending lines soon.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170225/bd5xhigs.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170225/ncw67peg.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170225/b7sh2qva.jpg

[beeman]

Re-did the brake lines. Individual lines to each corner from EBCM instead of split rear. Prior builder did a beautiful job, but ran inverted flare and I'm running (Corvette) bubble flare. And the mounts at the rear aimed the flexible lines towards the suspension.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170227/5gzhjbsh.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170227/wxa2pupm.jpg

I changed it to basically mimic the OEM Corvette orientation with a vertical orientation, I tilted it slightly, which steers the flexible lines away from the spring.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170227/9e8cke8a.jpg

For you guys that have no idea, here's how you get the pesky stickers /adhesive off in February in the northern Midwest. :cool:

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170227/q6qdiwhb.jpg

[beeman]

Got the fenders and hood vents where I want them. Next step is to trim the fascia then glass it to the fenders.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170303/pxzmstht.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170303/uir8bxxq.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170303/p5tmb2ou.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170303/zk8544fz.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170304/d4wuw678.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170304/77pwe7s2.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170304/acab527g.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170304/e7srhah2.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170304/672enqtk.jpg

[beeman]

Front bumper supports v3.0.
Had to make room for headlights!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170304/npqkaagz.jpg

[beeman]

Fully expecting a Cease and Desist order from Wareham, MA in the mail any day now!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170305/zjvpla89.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170305/23yktpop.jpg

37.5" from base of windshield glass to front of fascia.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170305/x5np9l8z.jpg

Roadster looking on intently. I think she's nervous.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170305/f7uy2z2z.jpg

[TomV]

Looking great so far, best of luck.

[beeman]

Looking great so far, best of luck.
Thanks, Tom!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170316/x4rnpysd.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170316/2a8wk2mu.jpg

[The Stig]

Dude I can't wait to see this when you have the body panels fitted and smoothed out. That's going to look killer!

Mike

[beeman]

Thanks, Mike! Definitely pretty rough at this point. Tacked in headlight mounting tabs, if cars weren't symmetric it would have been much easier (and if I had a second set of hands)! Used my digital angle gauge, accurate to 0.1 degrees. Yamaha R1 by the way, swapped left to right. Super lightweight, plenty of lumens with the planned dual HIDs.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170317/czboeba7.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170317/2q7t257k.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170317/rn9iwe5o.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170317/4g2bvees.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

We need to rename this creation. It is no longer a GTM! :cool:

[WIS89]

Bee-

I love following along; mad skills man, mad skills!!

I am with Tino, a new name seems appropriate, as GTM doesn't seem to work any more. It's soul is a GTM, but the rest of her is a FrankenBee.

Keep up the awesome work brother, she is coming along really great!

Regards,

Steve

[dallas_]

So cool. Love it.

[beeman]

Thanks guys!
Frankenbee? Have you seen 'Something About Mary'? ;) Anyways, my screen name has no personal meaning, it is just always available to take on new sites!

I think the overall proportions are going to be really good.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170318/gok5n4kj.jpg

[beeman]

Tweaked the hinge angle slightly. Nice to have the door completely out of the way for getting in and out of the car.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170318/nkktiymg.jpg

Closer to this geometry

http://cdn-7.motorsport.com/images/amp/68QnKm90/s6/lemans-24-hours-of-le-mans-2016-67-ford-chip-ganassi-racing-ford-gt.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170318/887znjeu.jpg

Yes, I CAN reach the grab handle to close the door while seated. Looks like it's a mile away, but this car just ain't that big!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170318/3qcqw5sp.jpg

[beeman]

Got up the courage to cut the upper control arm mounts in search of the Holy Grail of caster (and probably anti-dive too).

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170319/62dtb6la.jpg

Analog taillight 'rubbing' to digital so I can design then print a custom LED lamp that shouldn't require any fiberglass work.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170319/63pxx7rl.jpg

[beeman]

Taillights v1.0

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170323/fsyelbgf.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170323/enai9uiw.jpg

[tucker298]

nice! can't wait to see what you do with the tail lights!

[beeman]

nice! can't wait to see what you do with the tail lights!

Thanks Brent. I think it's going to look nice. Red lenses upper and lower for driving lights /brake lights. Clear lens in middle for backup and turn signal. This is a 2D print of the base of the light, final product is 3d. Need to tweak the contours slightly.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170326/uellm9id.jpg

[beeman]

I like how they turned out, just need cleaned up and hydrodipped in CF.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170330/777rq3qs.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170330/iihcgy7u.jpg

[beeman]

Sooooo....
I take it no one likes the taillights? :cool:
Got the front UCA mounts done this week, moved them back for caster gain and added some anti-dive. The rear shock mount became the front shock mount and I moved the front one behind it. Crude caster measurement is 6.5-7 with 1.4 of camber at 4 3/8 ride height with plenty of adjustability of lower cam bolts.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170403/dezcszog.jpg

Got her up on the lift to weld up a few things. My lumbar spine turns 40 next month :(. Need to finalize the door hinges, then should be able to get the entire body fitted.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170403/5x58iga2.jpg

[RoadRacer]

Sooooo....
I take it no one likes the taillights?

No they are very nice.. a nice improvement!

[LCD Gauges]

I'm not sure, but I think they'd work better with the wires hooked up. ;)

65892

They're going to look great. The best part is, nobody else is going to have that style...
but then, nobody else is going to have a GTMR2!

[flynntuna]

The taillights, like the rest of the car are over the top cool. I've been watching your build and I'm humbled by your talent. :cool:

[beeman]

No they are very nice.. a nice improvement!

The taillights, like the rest of the car are over the top cool. I've been watching your build and I'm humbled by your talent. :cool:
Appreciate it guys, I was wondering if the lack of a response meant I had to go back to the drawing board! I'm no artist!
flynntuna... it ain't talent... maybe stupidity??


I'm not sure, but I think they'd work better with the wires hooked up. ;)

Man, hooking up wires seems SO FAR off in the distance...we'll see how April goes!

[WIS89]

Bee-

I like the taillights too! However, as compared to the rest of your build, it seemed unworthy of my comments...

Like others, I am in awe of your talent as well. Mad skills man, mad skills!

Really enjoy following along.

Regards,

Steve

[tucker298]

i don't know how you do it, i'm sure its easy in your mind but the way you imagine things and just do them is amazing. I've always been in awe of fabricators.

[dallas_]

Tail lights look great!
Another nice custom touch. The whole project is fantastic.

[beeman]

Not much time in the shop this week..
Got the front frame nearly fully triangulated in, still need a tube here and there. Next comes the door hinges, which still needs the hardware/pivot figured out.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170409/wsq5yulh.jpg

[beeman]

I don't know if this is overly anal, but I didn't like the cage terminating at an open tube... So I boxed it up.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170409/yvoo99um.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170409/rlaigd7i.jpg

Time to hang the doors.

[beeman]

Forgot to mention, finalized plans with LPE for a 525hp LS3.

[dallas_]

Forgot to mention, finalized plans with LPE for a 525hp LS3.

Oh yeah! :)
I'm putting one of those in my SLC.

[beeman]

Next milestone will be getting the door hinges done. Not an easy task. Hard to hinge a door when there is nowhere to mount a hinge. Hard to hang a door on a single hinge and make it stable. Hard to get the arc of swing perfect through trial and error.
So I brought some chassis tubing out from the frame, it will be strong enough to support the door. I cut up the FFR GTM door hinges which worked in theory but is too flexible, have some wobble in the door.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170411/6vrzj7yo.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170411/jw5jzq29.jpg

Just ordered a couple of dump door hinges, these things look super robust. Had ordered some bullet hinges but they didn't seem like the answer.

https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/P/L/PLR1904-Z_19_1000.jpg

[dallas_]

Love the innovation. Very creative way to solve the issue. You an engineer by trade?

Oh, and it looks like you'll be more like 2,000:1 on this project. :)

[beeman]

I wish I had some engineering classes under my belt, my major was Biology! I think this door hinge thing will be one of the most difficult parts of the project, but I'm making gains on it.

[beeman]

Not much free time lately, hope everyone had a happy Easter.
Door hinges are backordered till early May they are saying. I haven't found a design from another source that I like, other options are smaller and are bushing-less designs.
Nice to have LPE guy on speed dial, coolant flow direction verified, leaves engine at water pump above, returns through thermostat below. All sorts of misinformation on the Corvette forums. Didn't guess that, not sure build manual has that right either. After buying an aftermarket Jeep Cherokee aluminum radiator, probably going back to C5 for the surface area. Started mocking it up. Going to run the hard lines outside of the chassis, don't want to build a sauna.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170418/y8nwl9l7.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170418/pe8de7rt.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170419/ssuknvjg.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170419/qlr6gn9a.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170419/756fq3dj.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170419/5lnrilz5.jpg

Modified door trailing edge location marked

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170419/pkmrssvn.jpg

And cut

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170419/g8vp75ej.jpg

Am I the only one thinking this overhang is asking for a McLaren-esque hidden door release button?

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170419/5m5qzcem.jpg

[dallas_]

Wow, that is a significant difference.

Nothing your sawzall can't handle. :)

[tucker298]

great work bee man, keep the updates coming!

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/uzo5zpz5.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/ygcf3z6u.jpg

Initial door gap set

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/bpisne5e.jpg

Ordered a 16" Spal fan... Received a 12" fan in a 16" box :rolleyes:
Went with straight blades. Little noisier but more efficient. Figured I'd just be hearing the engine anyways.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/k3cfrcc4.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/rm24wepi.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/epkblf99.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/dt5fw7be.jpg

[Roger Reid]

What motor did you decide on?

[beeman]

What motor did you decide on?

LPE LS3 @ 525hp. They have a 550hp but I wanted a little lower compression.

[dallas_]

Progress!
What are you thinking for the door handles? Move the whole opening, or keep it 1/2 on the door and 1/2 on the rear clip?

[beeman]

I just had an epiphany. Tell me what you think. I don't like how far the front wheel vents extend onto the door now that it's moved forward. Plus I'm not convinced that it's the most efficient way to get air out of the arch. Plus it probably shoots puddles onto the door? Oh, and simpler bodywork there.
So unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm going to delete the front vents and bring the air out of the arch closer to its source (the tire of course).

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/hp9kcevg.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/ehi5ucsi.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170423/kt6byn2j.jpg

[beeman]

Progress!
What are you thinking for the door handles? Move the whole opening, or keep it 1/2 on the door and 1/2 on the rear clip?

Going to delete that handle cutout, probably go with something hidden under the body ledge at the top of the door.

[LCD Gauges]

I can't begin to get my head around the door modifications. I'm having a tough enough time
getting things to line up without adding a foreign structure.

The overall shape is starting to come alive! Lookin' good! :cool:

[dallas_]

So unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm going to delete the front vents and bring the air out of the arch closer to its source (the tire of course).


I like it.

[beeman]

I like it.

Then that's how it shall be!

Actually, I walked around the side of the car many times. It's difficult to capture the changes in pictures. I really like the front vent delete. Every change I make reminds me of a car, this reminds me of a 918 with a flatter wheel arch. Doesn't throw off the front to rear flow at all, I think it actually improves it. Nice transition into the big rear scoop.

[beeman]

Got the door trimmed to eliminate front vent.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170429/7a5ed7cg.jpg

Don't care for the unibody construction. Should be able to eliminate most of the sheet metal. Just getting started here.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170429/s56mlkbt.jpg

Power window regulator /motor mounts..

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170429/dt8lzwu2.jpg

Tacked together

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170429/yqjeq96v.jpg

[dallas_]

Nice. I love what you are doing, and enjoy following your progress and solutions to issues as they crop up. Keep posting!

[beeman]

Thanks Dallas. Really wanted a decent side impact bar that I could tie into the hinge and latch. Just about done, need to trim and finish welds. Then remove the donor steel. I don't have a bender for square stock, so I used a notch-bend-weld technique.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170429/ktzyrrs2.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170429/uxiezckb.jpg

[beeman]

99 parts function, 1 part abstract art

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/nquwmjff.jpg

[beeman]

Driver's door done.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/ir3axklq.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/29bebt6t.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/beeir3uj.jpg

16.4 pounds. Not bad, may add a 2nd impact bar...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/fxtgh6m7.jpg

[beeman]

Window mechanicals work (with a little metal trimming)!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/tsqdyhqk.jpg

Unfortunately, like about everything else on this car, I have to build 2!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/raiel59u.jpg

[beeman]

The del sol is a decent looking little car, but I think the vertical height of the door windows is too tall. Bringing my roof down and the bodywork up about 3 inches, my windows will have more of a chopped appearance which looks a lot sportier. Here's the door panel moved up about 3 inches to the new position to match the external bodywork.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/a8p4rmzb.jpg

[dallas_]

Not bad, may add a 2nd impact bar...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170430/fxtgh6m7.jpg

Um.... what is that and what does it mean?

[beeman]

Sorry, digital scale, 16.4 pounds before window/mechanism. :cool:

[tucker298]

as always, great updates and always enjoy seeing the progress and watching it slowly come together.

[beeman]

Lots of time off for baseball /softball /vacation.
I realized that custom butterfly doors are not conducive to getting this car built any time soon. Not that I didn't have it basically done, I had bad thoughts about making both sides symmetric so it didn't look 'off' with both doors open, etc. May take it on in the future. So C5 donor hinge, C5 latch mechanism. Went up to 1.5" round tube door bar.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170609/9iu4mjpg.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170609/hr34jfkj.jpg

Approximate location of coolant pipes
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170609/zgxipf9u.jpg

[beeman]

Cleco supply running dangerously low!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170609/63eu7uz3.jpg

I ordered 1" (front) and 2" (rear) fiberglass fender flares, should be here next week. Should eliminate the wheel well asymmetry issues and I think they will look good...

[beeman]

Fiberglass dust... Yum!
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170609/jrh4qs63.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

I realized that custom butterfly doors are not conducive to getting this car built any time soon.

You're a smart man! My doors are not gapped and the windows are not installed yet. At this pace, I figure another decade before the
doors are complete. :/

Moving the coolant pipes to the side skirts is going to be a major benefit for interior cooling. If I could redo my build, this would be
very high on my things to do.

[beeman]

Thanks for understanding, Tino... Wasn't an easy decision to make, but oh well... Not a do or die feature for me, just thought it would be fun.
Got a couple/few layers of cloth/resin on to tie the new door together, will see how it turns out in the morning

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170610/momynqc4.jpg

Dave

[beeman]

Building up the backside
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170611/5cvu4w25.jpg

[beeman]

New door with front wheel vent delete. Door skin weighs 6.6lbs.
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170611/ziq47jde.jpg

[beeman]

Door back on the frame, will bond aluminum angle to the skin to bolt to the door frame. Here's the rough idea for the front fender vent.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170611/kgqlc5af.jpg

[beeman]

To attach the door skin to the frame, I am planning on using about 10 pieces of bent aluminum sheet, bond to the skin and bolt to the frame. Anyone see any issues with that plan?

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170612/tlpqre73.jpg

[crash]

Unless you have a reason to believe you will need to separate the frame from the door skin, just glass over the frame and make them one. That's what we did and it avoids any points of heightened stress. These can cause wrinkles in the door skin and also lead to cracks and failure. The glassed in frame has worked extremely well now for us for YEARS.

[beeman]

Thanks for the reply Mike.
Maybe I'll go that route instead. I was a little concerned about rigidity... I shouldn't have to remove the skin, worst case I can just cut it off.
What would you do in the areas where the frame is up to 4" away from the skin?
Maybe I'll rivet the angled alum sheet to the frame (in the pic above), then glass it all together for a little more strength?

[crash]

I think in those areas I would make an addition to the door frame that extends out to the skin and then glass over that tube.

[crash]

I think you will find that if you do a small square tube down low, and another one up high, horizontally, and weld them to the door frame and then glass over them, that will make for a very strong, durable, door.

[beeman]

Yeah, the joys of a one-off car. When I built the door frame, I was thinking sleek, minimal material, minimize weight. You can be assured that the passenger door frame will fit the door skin a little better!

[beeman]

I have a functioning door! On passenger side, will make the door frame slightly different so I can glass the frame directly to the door skin per Mike's recommendations.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170619/dweiphzi.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170619/uv9bgg5p.jpg

[beeman]

Panels will be refinished of course

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170624/2keyw2bd.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170624/ciullqkf.jpg

[dallas_]

Progress!

[WIS89]

Bee-

Doors and door cards look great! You are in possession of large brass ones my friend! Taking the parts from different cars, cutting things up, welding like a madman, adding countless customizations all in the pursuit of a cool ride; mad respect!!

I have really enjoyed following along, and always look forward to your latest update. Keep up the awesome work!

Regards,

Steve

[beeman]

Thanks guys, slowly but surely! I have a track weekend at M1 Concourse in 3 weeks, need to do a few prep things on the roadster (fluids, brakes, alignment, maybe bumpsteer, pre-radiator aluminum) which will take a little time away from the 'project'.
Started side "B" this morning.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170624/9fm97ee4.jpg

Just throwing this out there... If you are cutting fiberglass, I highly recommend a respirator like the one on the left. It keeps the dust out of your lungs. Good $30 investment, every garage should have one...obviously need it for VOCs as well. N95 on the right, I can smell the fiberglass so it's not keeping all the dust out of your system. Keeping it out of your eyes, that's a whole 'nother thing :cool:

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170624/iavlrrrm.jpg

Here we go again!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170624/sgxvqvsq.jpg

[beeman]

The devil really is in the necessary details... ie the adjustable window stops :rolleyes:

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170625/tlx8y9r4.jpg

Passenger door coming along.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170625/5ouhu92p.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170625/wrii2qyl.jpg

Picked up a spare roof, going to build it into a lightweight composite roof, ideally one that I can separate in half for stowage like the 918 and other modern targas. The Honda roof is pretty cool though, aluminum and weighs about 22 pounds with cosmetics included.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170625/p5tejh2f.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170628/mo9kp42y.jpg

[beeman]

GTM off the lift, need to prep the go kart for track weekend in 1 week.

I always thought the roadster was a little car... Until now! It is massive! :p

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170707/makxevc4.jpg

Back on the ground with new door frame, I like the height of the outer door bar at 25". Inner chassis side bars planned as well for rigidity and protection.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170707/mdgqgk8c.jpg

[beeman]

Spending the weekend at M1 Concourse. Interesting track. Roadster has been performing great.. Thanks FFR!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170716/2u8scfta.jpg

Saw this pretty lady walking after dinner. Gorgeous!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170716/z2hj6lil.jpg

[Jazzman]

Your thread caught my eye not because I knew what you were doing, but by your screen name. (My last name is "Beamon", pronounced the same as your screen name!) But I am so glad I took the time to read your thread! My customization work on my MKIV to add a tilt front is child's play compared to your amazing work! I just read the entire thread. Your work is truly amazing. Your vision is amazing. You can be very proud of what you are doing! It takes confidence to cut up any of these finely designed vehicles, but to do it to the top of the line GTM takes some serious levels of skill and creativity. I chuckled at your question about the look of the taillights. By that point in your thread, I was already so dumbfounded with your amazing work that I could barely form words to tell you how much I loved the taillights! It all is truly amazing. Keep up the good work, and thank you for sharing it with us! Your work is inspiring me!! I had been thinking Coupe as my next project, but your inspiration is drawing me back to reconsidering the GTM again. I guess I had better finish the FlipTop first!

[beeman]

Your thread caught my eye

Thank you for the kind words! I really considered a tilt front on the Roadster as well, I followed a thread on a tilt front a while back (maybe Stinson Pilot). I also think that the Coupe would be an awesome build, I have definitely considered it. In my mind, it's a lot like the Roadster as far as how I would enjoy it, so I wanted something completely different. I'm not going to build more than 1 GTM, so I decided to go a little crazy and make sure it ended up the way I want it.

I just spent a couple days at M1 Concourse. After a few laps to get those tire walls out of my mind, I ended up really liking the track. Other than 1 episode resulting in a 'tow of shame' (car sputtered and died after the hairpin turn...turns out I had triggered the inertial fuel cutoff switch - didn't even get off the track!), the car did amazing. But it seemed like I was in between 2nd and 3rd gear for a lot of the corners. I'm ready to take it up a notch with more power and real aero. That's where the GTM comes in.

Good luck finishing your Roadster! You will have a ton of fun with it.

[beeman]

Getting brakes done on the GTM so I can get an official alignment including caster prior to any permanent fender positioning. Hope to have them bled today.
Summer is not conducive to a blistering build pace. Kids started school this week, summer flew by.
Spending a lot of time with the roadster, Auburn auction/cruise-ins in 2 weeks, heading to Gingerman in 4 weeks.
Here's a pic from M1 Concourse. Lap timer wasn't working right, from video I was running a 1:22.5 or so.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170818/osqya6r8.jpg

[beeman]

Brakes are done and bled. I read that you have to use some kind of GM tool to trigger the ABS while bleeding, everything seemed to bleed fine with no leaks and a very firm pedal. That may change the first time the ABS actuates.

[beeman]

The FFR supplied seats are OK, but leave a little to be desired. I feel like they were made to fit all sizes from 150-280 pounds. I'm sure they fit fine with the standard chassis, but I'm finding them to be too wide in the seat and upper wing areas. Yes they fit, but barely, and I don't need that wide of a seat. So I tried something that really turned out great. Del Sol seats are desirable swaps in the Honda community, they have excellent support and sit lower than other Honda seats. I disassembled the Del Sol seat into upper and lower portions and ditched the OEM sliders. Total weight of the upper and lower portions with metal internals is 16 lbs, compared to 13.6 lbs for the FFR GTM seat. Headrest is removable via clips, will have to be modified.
Should be straight forward to fab up some brackets.
Crappy donor seat used for proof of concept, will find a nice one or get it recovered.

Seat bottom width at maximum point (bolsters) is 19.5". Seat upright is 19.5" wide at bolster, 17.5" wide at upper 'wings'.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170819/2hxhjvn3.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170819/bxq7htli.jpg

The lower seat portion fits perfectly in the GTM seat location, as does the upper.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170819/96ybwx6c.jpg

Other than a thin metal shell and very comfortable foam, my butt is right on the floor. Headroom, baby!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170819/hmugnvl9.jpg

[beeman]

Really leaning towards a mono front wiper, to keep things simple and light. I procured a Toyota rear window wiper that looks like it will work well for the rare times I see rain. Off/int/run. Entire assembly with wiper/arm is 2.8lbs.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170822/sg8mt7fm.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170822/mocgrfoc.jpg

[mia65cobra]

Holy smokes, just went through this entire thread. To think when I first clicked on it I was going to be looking at someone's really nice build thread...wow did I underestimate what I'd see. Hats off to you on what so far looks incredible. Sub'd to see the rest ;)

BTW...love the Mexico Blue on the Roadster. I'm a huge Porsche fan and that is one of my favorite colors.

[beeman]

Holy smokes, just went through this entire thread. To think when I first clicked on it I was going to be looking at someone's really nice build thread...wow did I underestimate what I'd see. Hats off to you on what so far looks incredible. Sub'd to see the rest ;)

BTW...love the Mexico Blue on the Roadster. I'm a huge Porsche fan and that is one of my favorite colors.

Glad to hear you enjoyed catching up! Yeah I had my mind set on Mexico Blue for the roadster... Showed my painter (who specializes in muscle cars) and he was skeptical, to say the least, about my color choice. As soon as he had color on the car, he was immediately sending pics to his buddies, it really works.

Didn't have time to get an alignment this morning. So the latest tangent is that I'm going to build up the passenger door as a suicide door and see which side I like better. Actually, with the shape of my door frame and limited ability to hinge solidly at the front, I won't be surprised if the passenger door wins the talent contest. I think it's going to be a cool feature.

Driver side. Works but there is flexing of the door (at the hinge) while open.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170827/g4n45uz3.jpg

Getting ready to fab up the passenger side.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170827/igwx233e.jpg

[dallas_]

Love the idea of the suicide door. Hope you can make that work. Looks like it would make it much easier to get in and out also.

[beeman]

Summer is winding down, time to make some progress on the GTM... Took the roadster up to Gingerman Raceway last weekend, had a ball with it. It really holds its own up against the new stuff but just can't keep up on the long straights. Was running about a 1:50 lap on day 2. Instructor gave me a nice compliment, said of the many Cobra replicas he's been in, mine drove and handled the best. He's done over 20k laps at Gingerman. I'm still a rookie, just done a couple track days a year for the past few years...

The GTM story continues with two steps backwards. I didn't care for my main roll hoop on the GTM... If I leaned the seat back, my helmeted head easily contacted it up top, and it stuck in too much from my b-pillar, which was contacting my seat back.
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about :

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170925/6rx4amra.jpg

So I busted out the Sawzall and markers and got to work

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170925/qugmax7p.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170925/pfvacfz4.jpg

I am SO MUCH happier with this roll hoop compared to the old one. I really took my time to make every bend perfect,
I got it to where I want it down to millimeters. It just disappears into the body. Now I can move forward on the project without that 'I think that could be better' feeling...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170925/yjjpy2n7.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170925/ob2j63zq.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170925/2zhvy2e7.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170925/qau3eoei.jpg

[T4Twins]

Its amazing the time and work you have done to the car. Cant wait to see the finished product.

[dallas_]

Hey, I think I see a little piece of metal there that used to be part of the original GTM you started with. :)

[beeman]

Hey, I think I see a little piece of metal there that used to be part of the original GTM you started with. :)

I think you are referring to the hatch hinge mount. Unfortunately, it is destined for the scrap heap. :cool:

[WIS89]

Mad skills Bee!

I always look forward to your updates! I really admire the vision you have for this car, and even more the ability to convert that image to action.

I hope you are able to spend a lot of time in the shop this winter, so we can all see the progress you are making.

Thanks for posting your progress; seriously mad skills!!

Regards,

Steve

[kabacj]

yeah Beeman! Looking good!

It’s scary to make the first cut, but your into it now!

Every day is a new challenge of how do we make this fit and work.

I wish I was right there with you.

The best part is when you are done you will have a very fast one of a kind car super car.

That’s priceless.

[beeman]

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement, I'll try to keep things moving along!

Just got a text from my engine builder. Not sure how they crammed 525 ponies into this, but LPE is awesome!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170926/7ftsd3pi.jpg

[crash]

I don't know what LPE is selling you, but 525 HP LS3s are a standard factory crate option from GM. It's what we run in the FFR PDG GTM race car. We actually get a bit more than that with a good tune and carefully built exhaust.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Performance/Chevrolet-Performance-LS376-525-LS3-62L-525HP-Crate-Engine/1941625/10002/-1

[beeman]

Yeah Crash, I'm familiar with the GM crate motors, I looked at the one you linked to, it's very similar to the one that is being built for me. Cost is similar so it really didn't affect my decision. LPE built the LS1 I have in my C5, and I have had no issues with it. I wanted to stay with them for the GTM because I have experience with them, plus great communication and support. I'll have help with installation and a dyno tune as well. Plus I want a little LPE sticker on the GTM.:cool:

[beeman]

She has a heart! Engine arriving tomorrow, better get cracking! Swapped out the LS3 water pump for the LS1, smooth valley cover, moved oil pressure sender to side of block...

https://i.imgur.com/jpMPH2J.jpg

[wallace18]

Looking Good!

[beeman]

Another frame mod, at full lock my tires are about 2" below this tube, could contact on compression... Stupid wide tires...

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171021/kvqsh3u4.jpg

So before I go further, taking these down to re-do that tube, shouldn't be too bad. Got the driver's side taken down...

[dallas_]

Seems good that you caught that when you did.

[beeman]

Well, I noticed it as soon as I installed the CCW's a long time ago, has been on the 'to-do list' for a while... One of those things that I wasn't looking forward to but knew I had to correct. I'm trying to finalize the chassis so I can get a final alignment and go to town on the body.

[beeman]

Got that frame tube replaced, had to redo the shock mount, no big deal. These are the vette tires, even more clearance with the CCW'S.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171028/qu3ntalj.jpg

Now it's time to get the door frame done, it's going to be a complete redo so I can hinge at the rear.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171028/vb33vhww.jpg

[dallas_]

Now it's time to get the door frame done, it's going to be a complete redo so I can hinge at the rear.

Nice work. Suicide doors? Sweet! :)

[beeman]

Just got done getting an alignment, had not checked it since moving the UCA mounts.

7.5 caster
1.15 camber
1/16 toe
Had a wide range of options up to 3 of camber and 9+ of caster.

[Roger Reid]

Numbers look good. What about bump steer?

[beeman]

I had it down to minimal after moving the mounts but before this alignment today, so I'll obviously have to redo it. I think the driver's side alignment was around 8 caster and -2 camber where we started today. I didn't want quite that much caster or camber so we dialed both down a bit. So I'll recheck the bump steer and optimize it at some point.

[beeman]

I'm going to give the butterfly doors one more go-around.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171111/2g28plfu.jpg

[beeman]

These doors are driving me insane. I really want butterfly doors. I am having trouble getting a rock steady setup, but maybe I should expect a little flexing? I'm thinking that the pneumatic shock should add a point of stability as well...

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171112/3c3oohwz.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171112/ggwi4lxg.jpg

[beeman]

Moving the main hoop required redoing the roof bars.
Out with the old and in with the new.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171120/7cemhalm.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171120/nbcp35x2.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171120/8sm7e6xs.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171120/53svwkns.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171120/25px3faw.jpg

[beeman]

Just like I did with the re-done roll hoop, really took the time with tube bending to give me a minimal gap for a headliner while maximizing headroom.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171120/b7ryheoh.jpg

[beeman]

Door hinges are done, boring standard front pivot. Solid as a rock, Autoloc hinges, can probably pick up the chassis with them. Just checked with my digital angle gauge, mount does not deflect at all with my 180 pounds hanging on the hinge.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171202/zxr2mqkz.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171202/u4guoljh.jpg

The more I read about suicide hinges, the more they scared me. Most recommend a locking solenoid to prevent the suicide door from opening while moving. I didn't want a death trap on the track if the solenoid failed, nor did I want someone accidentally opening the door at speed and ripping it off the car...

Found a gorgeous low mileage Del Sol (front damage) that I will be using for the final rendition. Once I get everything welded, the green parts are coming off so the frame can be painted before the white donor goes on permanently.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171202/f877kuy9.jpg

[beeman]

Trimmed the door card, looking at doing FIA style door bars. Here's a finger/phone drawing that shows my idea, power windows will still function - bars will be inboard of the mechanism.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171202/lschcuqn.jpg

[beeman]

Upper bar done, getting ready to tack it and see how ingress /egress are...
What do you track guys think about the design? I'm pretty sure that the only requirement is that the upper attachment points be less than half the door opening height... Will triangulate the main hoop behind where the bar attaches.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171203/jufhtjah.jpg

Pay no attention to the ugly welding on the door, it is going to the scrap yard... Probably a hundred tack-cut - retry - tack and so on...

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171203/jvnyg36w.jpg

This door card is also the trial one, final card will fit the upper border of the door bar well.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171203/fjvkja7x.jpg

[beeman]

Tacked it in, I really like it. Actually makes getting into and out of the car quite a bit easier! Sit on the bar, swing your feet in...easy. Getting out is no harder and actually more dignified, swing feet out and use the bar to push myself up..

[crash]

77420Yes, this is what we found on the FFR PDG GTM race car. We put fuel cells on both sides, and then instead of leaving the full height doors, I cut them down to half size and then finished the area between the doors and the frame. This gives us a "shelf" to use for getting in and out. Works quite well.

[beeman]

Not sure if I want to gusset with tubes or sheet metal.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171206/abt9ejxh.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/171206/zx4b5ya8.jpg

[Fraser D]

Sheet metal would get my vote as it weigh less and can add to side intrusion protection.

[beeman]

I think you're right, Dave.
I'm going to tack in an 'FIA bar' and see if I like ingress/egress with one in place. This car will be 90% street and 10% track.
Does this positioning look right?

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171211/8g4c9yhb.jpg

[beeman]

Been busy lately, has been over a week since I have snuck out to the shop. Matching passenger bars completed.

I'm wondering if I should wait to weld them until after the DMV inspection... Do they have any issues with door bars on the street? Actually, they will be covered and look like a high door sill when it's all said and done...

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171215/y2yvdxop.jpg

Here's the location of the original FFR side bar, I was curious and threw this on to see how it compared.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171215/tr7854ij.jpg

[beeman]

As the photo above shows, my door bar has the same angle as the original FFR side bar. So I'll be able to use the male and female door jambs (with a little modification of course!) which simplifies things a little.

I was going to use the FFR supplied door latch mechanism, but there's no lock function?? Are a bunch of you guys parking without locks? So Honda latch it is. The Corvette latch was an option too, but was pretty bulky.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/171228/8yyk4cex.jpg

[beeman]

Doors are hinged and latched! Went back to C5 latch system. Bodywork time!

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180120/w4y6z7l5.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180120/8pyf4onk.jpg

[dallas_]

Hey, it's a car!

[beeman]

Hey, it's a car!

Well, a few steps closer anyways!

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/180122/xpqnx759.jpg

[beeman]

Trying to figure out what to do in the area behind the B- pillar... Is a window essential here for avoiding a major blind spot? Air scoop? Combination?
Had to order more clecos! Weird, I never ran out building the roadster...

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180123/93mpum2h.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180123/y5v75hn4.jpg

[RoadRacer]

What's behind you doesn't matter :)

I've never seen or sat in a GTM, but I have driven 60k miles in a GT40 replica, so pretty similar. You'll have to be very careful about using your mirrors anyway, because rear quarter visibility is pretty bad, and there will be gawkers just sitting there taking pics. I'd scoop it personally.

[beeman]

Yeah I agree with scooping it... But how big? I have quite a bit more surface area there compared to the stock GTM, I don't want the scoop to be an overwhelming element there.
Regarding the rear 1/4 blind spot, I'm looking at aftermarket kits, would be simple to implement. Some have GPS modules so they aren't going haywire at every traffic light, only activate above a certain speed. Or could tie into turn signal like many OEM units.

https://images.bonanzastatic.com/afu/images/3481/0926/45/__57.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I'd say the visibility issue will be determined by where your head is at when you're sitting in there. In the GTM, that area is useless to see out of.....100% of that area is behind your head.

[beeman]

Thanks for the input, off to the Internet to find a scoop that fits..

[crash]

We eliminated the side window scoops, and here is why...when we had the engine fire a few years back the driver, when getting out of the car, was burned on his left shoulder from flames coming out of that scoop. Yes he was wearing a three layer suit, but it burned completely thru one layer and damaged the second layer. If he had not been wearing a fire resistant suit he would have been severely burned getting out of the GTM. We found that plenty of air can be brought in from under the car and from the side scoops behind the doors to keep things cool. It also helps very slightly with rear mirror visibility.

[beeman]

Crash, I do recall you saying in the past that the 1/4 window scoops were unnecessary for engine bay cooling... How are you feeding air to the engine airbox?
I do like the way they look (looking at Shane's scoops like on his GTM #12)...
It's a lot of real estate I've created there, I'm afraid that simple bodywork would be too bland/boring there? What do you guys think?

[crash]

We run a non reversed intake and then use a reversible scoop mounted on the rear window to draw air into an engine air intake box. Of course our rear window is polycarbonate. The scoop is reversible with Dzus fasteners so that when it rains we are not gulping in water. Yes we did have to modify the rear firewall to make the non reversed intake fit. It is extremely tight and uses a "cobra head" 90 degree intake hose. This allows us to make a smoother exhaust path for the exhaust system and also keeps the exhaust heat away from the intake.

[beeman]

We run a non reversed intake and then use a reversible scoop mounted on the rear window to draw air into an engine air intake box. Of course our rear window is polycarbonate. The scoop is reversible with Dzus fasteners so that when it rains we are not gulping in water. Yes we did have to modify the rear firewall to make the non reversed intake fit. It is extremely tight and uses a "cobra head" 90 degree intake hose. This allows us to make a smoother exhaust path for the exhaust system and also keeps the exhaust heat away from the intake.

Thanks Crash. I'm not familiar with a reversible scoop, unless it's exactly what it sounds like. On the PDG GTM, did you ever have a functional roof scoop or has it always been a big "Gurney bubble"? In some pictures, it looks like there is an air intake on the front of the roof structure, also looks taped off in other pictures?

Regarding fires, I have questions about suppression systems, I'll start another thread on that.

[crash]

All the drivers, including myself started to be over 6 feet tall. Last year's 25 hour race driver lineup was no exception with three out of four drivers standing 6' 3" or better. At one of the first races I attended as a driver I mentioned that my helmet was hitting the roof, and that it was extremely hot inside the car. The heat issue was because of the water lines running thru the drivers compartment. In any case, Richard decided that he wanted, above all, the car to be as safe as possible, so he cut the roof, put bars that extend up into that bubble, and then made the front a scoop that brought cooling air in to the drivers compartment. Since we frequently race in the rain, and we also have moved the cooling tubes to outside the drivers compartment, we have since closed that vent up. The other issue with it was that crap from the track would come in that vent and make the driver and inside of the car dirty. We had talked about smoothing the front back into the roof line for aero purposes, but it just has not been done yet. To address this on my "new car"(if I can still call it that), I have raised the entire "green house" a little over two inches. This preserves the profile shape but gives the driver a lot more head room.

[BluePrintEngines]

Wow is all i can say! so do we have an engine picked out for this creation yet? ;) wink wink!
https://blueprintengines.com/collections/gm-compatible-ls-crate-engines

what "percentage" GTM did you utilize?....if that question even makes sense.lol

[beeman]

Wow is all i can say! so do we have an engine picked out for this creation yet? ;) wink wink!
https://blueprintengines.com/collections/gm-compatible-ls-crate-engines

what "percentage" GTM did you utilize?....if that question even makes sense.lol

I actually have already taken delivery on an LPE 525 HP LS3, I checked out your site though!

Still a lot of GTM left, much more than 50% I'd say :cool:

[BluePrintEngines]

Still a pretty sweet build! I'm assuming LPE is Lingenfelter? out of curiosity do they do anything to that 525 ls3? or is it just the stock GM ls3 with asa cam that pace, scoggin, etc sell?

[beeman]

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L130215306.html#.WmtLf3NOm7M

Similar to this, I wanted a little less compression and figured 525hp would be more than enough. My roadster performed decently compared to my friend's 458 Ferrari on the track (about 5 sec difference at Gingerman) . I want this car to have the power (and almost as importantly aero) to leave him behind. The grip in the 458 is unbelievable. We aren't pro drivers by any means, but like to drive hard!

[beeman]

Teaser. I think this will work well. I originally planned on large flare for the rear but really didn't like it at all... Swapped them and I think I'm sold. Big flares front /small rear?? Seems counterintuitive. But I found my inspiration on a car out of Italy. Can anyone guess which?

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180126/xrfdngnb.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180126/e98br675.jpg

[dallas_]

Still a lot of GTM left, much more than 5% I'd say :cool:

Fixed it for ya!

[RoadRacer]

not sure - I originally thought early pantera, but pics make front/rear very similar. But yours look good.

[beeman]

The car I'm referring to is the MC12 Corsa. Beauty. Lots of similar lines to GTM.

https://motorheadjournal.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/maserati-mc12r-fsw-15.jpg

http://gtspirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Maserati-MC12-Corsa-For-Sale-7.jpg

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q6NQp7nv9Kk/maxresdefault.jpg

Been cutting for a while, time to start pasting.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180126/lq52z7uj.jpg

[beeman]

I really like the roof scoop (more of a snorkel) on the above MC12 Corsa. But it's not quite wild enough. But I reeeaaallllyyyy like the roof snorkel on the new Lamborghini Huracán Super Trofeo Evo.

https://icdn-6.motor1.com/images/mgl/r97JV/s1/huracan-super-trofeo-evo.jpg

I'll print something up and see how it looks :cool:. ABS aperture into a FG tunnel to engine intake/airbox. May or may not work, we'll see.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/mn25a6t9.jpg

Note the curvature of the lower part of the intake to match the roof curvature. Lambo should have thought of that...

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/x2fr8i5y.jpg

[cgundermann]

A touch lower and wider would look sweet; just my 1.5 cents worth...

Chris

[beeman]

A touch lower and wider would look sweet; just my 1.5 cents worth...

Chris

I've got this on the cooker right now, I'll see how it looks in real life. I don't see a big benefit to going much larger, is that right? Won't be ram air...

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/theosamr.jpg

[beeman]

Off to bed, I'll see how it looks on the roof of the car tomorrow...
Should I expect good noise from this under full throttle with the roof off? Or not so much? Never sat in front of a V8 air intake before... Or will I just be hearing the Kooks?

Standard 8.5x11 paper for size reference

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/m9askstw.jpg

[beeman]

A touch lower and wider would look sweet; just my 1.5 cents worth...

Chris

You were right, Chris, good eye!

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/5pzgvizl.jpg

Taking actual measurements from the Evo image now, v2 should be more accurate, so much for winging it!

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/plswge6k.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/kutodvd4.jpg

[beeman]

This is much better, thanks for the input!

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180128/emfgflay.jpg

[beeman]

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180129/d4cl9eoz.jpg

[beeman]

More cut and paste, I think this dash will turn out good. Toyota Celica. Leaning towards a Procision digital dash...

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180129/zlzciu24.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180129/w5ccpreh.jpg

[Dulock]

Hello Beeman!

I just discovered Factory Five this a few weeks ago, and have a new goal in life. I simply must build something. I've been spending a lot of time on the forums, and read through your entire build to date on Friday (didn't get forumn approval until today to respond). Very entertaining. Even more impressive. And highly inspiring! Keep up the amazing work and I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I think I read somewhere in the thread you had a medical background of some sort? How did you acquire all the skills you have displayed here? I don't want to derail your thread, but I'd love to know more about your journey to the point that you are designing, fabricating, and blending parts from different builds into a beautiful piece of art (and a powerful one at that!). -- if I missed this somewhere, my apologies!

[beeman]

Dulock- Yes I work in the medical field. I love the work I do, but I really have a passion for everything automotive (well, everything PERFORMANCE automotive- can't say I get too excited about a Prius). I'm self taught in all of this. My dad really had no interest in this type of thing (but now he enjoys the track weekends with us - maybe it's the steak dinners??). Got started detailing cars at a Porsche dealership back in high school. I was able to buy a 1987 944 Turbo that I did some work on (back then I didn't know much and had to sell it because I couldn't afford maintaining it). So I think the sensation of that turbo kicking in got me hooked on cars. Then came the internet age, if you have the desire to learn something, you can. Didn't have anything special in college- Jeep, CRX. After college I was into Nissan Z32's for about 5 years, built up a slicktop TT with about 450 hp. A friend of mine showed me a FFR brochure about 10 years ago, we got excited about the GTM. I built a roadster first, then found this kit nearby in Michigan. Loved a lot about the GTM, also figured I'd change a few things. Moving the cabin was a priority. I wanted windows that seal up. Then I wanted a sunroof or removable roof, but the donor with a sunroof was very heavy so it defeated my primary purpose- performance. So I ended up with an MR2 and a DelSol for options. DelSol worked better. Here we are. Yikes.

[beeman]

I'm trying to figure out this air intake. I really like the shape. I'm just trying to figure out how to incorporate one or 2 scoops. I printed a couple to see how they looked.

One central scoop like in the Huracan would make a rear window non-functional. Maybe that is not a big deal. For you GTM drivers, how much do you use the interior rear view mirror? Some? Not at all? I'm not opposed to a solid firewall with a camera-based rear view mirror, actually I will probably have a rear view camera anyways.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180130/5nm64uoz.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180130/zx3fp7u2.jpg

Another option is twin roof scoops, one on each side of the rear part of the roof. Shane has a rear hatch intake piece that is similar to that. I could potentially see out of the rear window with that.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180130/cwgorqgj.jpg

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180130/6s49tfo9.jpg

Third option is putting the scoops at the 1/4 windows. I think they look good there and would be easy to plumb into an airbox. Would keep this area from being too bland.

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/180130/xlwuveml.jpg

[WIS89]

I think you go with three. One on each quarter window as you were thinking. Then, add one in the center of the roof coming down the center of the rear window.

I think you go with a rear view camera, and not worry about what you can or can't see out the rear window. You are thinking of using Tino's dash, and integrating a camera there shouldn't be a problem, and matches the high tech feel I think you are after.

At least, that's how I see it. I know whatever you do will be killer!! Love what you are doing!!

Regards,

Steve

[RoadRacer]

I'd say two, on the side. Keep the top vent-free. Seems the cleanest option to me.

[dallas_]

If you're asking for opinions, if you're going to do those scoops, I like the 3rd option best.