Making progress on my build...

[beeman]

I divided my Gen1 hatch into 2 parts. I was initially going to bond/glass in the rear hatch portion, but now I'm leaning towards making the rear portion removable (but not hinged) for access to the rear part of the engine bay. I am thinking about bonding the spoiler to this portion and making a small subframe underneath to support the aerodynamic stress. So the spoiler would ride on top of the body a little bit on each side where it's not bonded to the rear hatch piece.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

That sounds like a good plan. I saw that you cut your hatch right behind the glass there. Making that panel removable does make working in the engine bay a lot more pleasant than having all of that bonded solid.

[Fraser D]

This is how I did the split hatch on my GTM.
It looks like you cut yours the same distance back from the glass.
I reused the donor Corvette electric hatch release for convenience.

I like your wing design.

[beeman]

Thanks Dave. I see 2 Aerocatch latches at the rear (I have those at the front of my hood/bonnet), how did you attach the front of that piece? Your wing looks mean.

[beeman]

How did you create the raised area under the hatch to attach the striker (and make it strong enough to not fail)?

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190605/vd7t543p.jpg

[Fraser D]

I glued in a piece of aluminum then glassed over it and modified one of the original hatch catches.
The rear piece has a weather strip step glassed in that bulb seal clips on.
The aero latches just secure the rear of the panel, then everything is locked in once the main hatch clips in.
I hope that the photos help.
The wing mounts and brackets I made myself to be a little different.

[beeman]

One more question (for now). What is the best technique for creating this flange, offsetting it to make a gap for weatherstripping as well. Is that all fiberglass? I need to do that for my hood area as well.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190605/s8ofjvtc.jpg

[Jake From State Farm]

I would probably bend a steel rod or two to taste and use stretched fleece to span the gap. Paint the fleece with resin and you have an instant 3D mold. The rod acts as a shaping tool to put the fleece where you want it. As always with composite fabrication, there are probably many other people with completely different and interesting ways to accomplish the same task. You may find how-to YouTube videos on subwoofer enclosure glassing inspirational in this regard. The concept is the same - establish your endpoints and let the fleece fill in the blanks.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yeah...there are several different ways you could do that. If it were me, I would probably find some rigid foam insulation board that was about the thickness you would need to create the lip you want.....lay the hatch section on top of the foam and trace the leading edge of the hatch onto the foam and cut the foam board to perfectly fit the edge of the hatch. Cut the foam board into a narrower strip so you can bend it to contour to the front edge of the hatch. The foam will dissolve if it contacts the resin, so you would have to cover the foam in something.....latex paint, foil tape, masking tape, etc. From there you could either position the foam right on the hatch and create the part + bond it to the hatch at the same time by fiberglassing it right to the bottom side of the hatch......or create a flange from some flashing or flexible wood, fg the part and then once the part cures, break all of the foam out and then bond the finished flange onto the hatch with some panelbonding adhesive.

[beeman]

Cool, thanks guys. I'll see what I can throw together.

Finishing up power distribution. Front fuse panel plus 6 relays (3 for dual fan system, 2 for hi/lo beams, 1 for horn). Also have a cabin fuse panel and an engine fuse panel, each compact and lightweight, and close to the supplied components.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190606/4udz72yo.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190606/oxushcsx.jpg

[beeman]

Got the seat bottoms back from the upholsterer, I like the pass-throughs. Just got up to Grand Rapids, off to Grattan in the morning with the roadster. Hoping the weather cooperates. Everyone I talk to that has been to Grattan either loves it or hates it.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190610/4f3r77km.jpg

[Fraser D]

One more question (for now). What is the best technique for creating this flange, offsetting it to make a gap for weatherstripping as well. Is that all fiberglass? I need to do that for my hood area as well.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190605/s8ofjvtc.jpg

All that I did was replicate the curve with a piece of plywood that was either 3/8" or 1/2" thick to suit the bulb seal that I was wanting to use.
That piece was then screwed to a larger piece to complete the mold.
Spray adhesive was used to secure the aluminum foil over the wood that would come into contact with fiberglass.
I just used some wax as a mold release with about 5-6 layers of cloth to ensure that there was enough thickness to sand back flat.
Be careful as the mat does not like following 90deg profiles and I had a couple of air pockets in mine that needed to be repaired.
Hope that helps.

[jamesfr58]

Looks like things are moving a long, nice to see and study how others are doing their custom work, opens up to many different ideas that just might come in handy when I start building my body.....oh yea haven't started it yet !! But I will soon I hope !!

[dallas_]

Beeman, looking good. Always enjoy following your progress.
John

[beeman]

Thanks guys!
Pretty cool the gorgeous Keating Ford GT won the amateur class at LeMans.

https://www.automobilsport.com/uploads/_neustart30/24h-le-mans/85-2019-06-01-9008.jpg

Spent a little time on the upper tunnel cover. Next step is the Android tablet and switch panel.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190617/4m3qochx.jpg

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190617/5q385o8q.jpg

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190617/tyq3y5fv.jpg

[beeman]

Off with the old...

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190617/6ph4dj82.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Up to something new..... Can't wait to see what you come up with

[beeman]

Up to something new..... Can't wait to see what you come up with

James-
The green bodywork was from a DelSol donor with 350k miles, it has always been intended to be temporary and just tacked in, bearing the brunt of welding, grinding, etc. There were a couple surface rust spots and the windshield had a crack. I found a pristine low mileage white donor and will be grafting on components from that. A local automobile glass shop removed the windshield for me so I can have the new frame fully welded in. Luckily they did not crack it, they are fairly hard to find (Ha - I should say extremely easy to find compared to the GTM windshield).

[Erik W. Treves]

not sure you covered it already... but did/do you have another plan for the coolant and AC lines? the battery seems to be sharing the same location... you gonna run them down the sides like the 818? just wondering only...

[beeman]

not sure you covered it already... but did/do you have another plan for the coolant and AC lines? the battery seems to be sharing the same location... you gonna run them down the sides like the 818? just wondering only...

Coolant lines already have been formed, run outside the cabin on the sides of the car, run in insulated tunnels behind the seats to and from the water pump, there are some pics of the setup on previous pages.
I'm going to get the car registered and running before I finish up the A/C, as I will initially be doing primarily track time and can pop out the targa if needed on hot days for the street. I already have all of the components for A/C, the cabin components fit behind the passenger seat- I have about 8" between the seat back and the firewall. I have an aftermarket condenser that will fit (angled) under the passenger rear bodywork ducted to the passenger rear lower air intake behind the door.
I'm rapidly filling my tunnel with stuff, I'm glad I annexed that space.

[beeman]

Started final shaping of the spoiler.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/ul4juach.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/kcrzcgbw.jpg

Welded in the main hoop diagonal bar. Took apart the front of the car for welding completion and chassis paint.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/pg82ybby.jpg

Fiberglassed a channel in the upper waterfall piece to clear the new diagonal bar.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/tjkctq75.jpg

[beeman]

Fitting splitter

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/3ef9f7df.jpg

Lower mounts done

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/8snlu6zc.jpg

Need to trim the fascia to fit the splitter (fascia needs to come down about 1 inch) then will mount the upper splitter supports.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/vdz9n8jz.jpg

[beeman]

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190701/pmajj5zs.jpg

There were a few ways of mounting the splitter supports to the chassis. I felt that small tabs coming through the fascia would look the cleanest. They are welded to the frame and fully functional.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190701/4smwtp4w.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190701/2fnsw77q.jpg

Two down, two to go.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190701/mdklfuxv.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Looks like you are really moving along, looks good. Guess I have to get it in gear and progress my build a little faster.... Summer is taking its toll with time allotted to family things and one of my kids getting ready to leave for college for the first time. Really enjoy seeing your progress and innovative ideas...

[beeman]

Thanks James.
Baseball and softball just finished up, we had 3 kids playing on 3 different teams. Between that and work, there wasn't much free time for anything. It's hard to balance life with a crazy project like this, sometimes I head out to the shop late at night when the kids are already in bed. A little bit here and there, here I am 3 years into it...

[jamesfr58]

At least my kids are all grown up although I still have two at home 21 and 20. Maybe I should go back to work full time, only work part time now and somehow I am working harder on all the home project trips with boat to lake for kids and grandkids (got 7 of these with 2 more on the way) and trying to get the GTM built. Think a full working full time again might be a vacation!!

[beeman]

Not the easiest thing, getting the 4 splitter support tabs localized, parallel, welded, and through small slots on the fascia that don't bind up when you slide the fascia on/off. I think I had to put it on and remove it about 30 times...

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/yvr3n883.jpg

Confirming the replacement window frame fits prior to tear-down for chassis paint.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/gm65mtfy.jpg

Getting ready for chassis paint, also removed steering column and upper A-arms.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/k9dv7x24.jpg

Por15 chassis paint on and drying.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/7qyhlscn.jpg

[beeman]

Mounting dash which requires fabricating and welding in mounting tabs. The bulk of the Honda dash has been gutted for weight savings, what I have left is surprisingly light, can't be more than a few pounds.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/heqqamut.jpg

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/baoo5mh5.jpg

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/cgn6qb6o.jpg

One benefit of the door releases being reversed onto the chassis is that the releases can be placed anywhere. I like that I can easily open both the driver and passenger doors while in a harness.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/je65jnxp.jpg

Appx location of cup holders. Out of the way and plenty of room for a Big Gulp.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/k6uyapcl.jpg

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/uuby9p8f.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Yup cup hold is one of those must have modifications!! I have to say you really have a vision to make the very extensive modifications and the car your own personal design. Bet we all will be amazed when you are done, and I have enjoyed the post and seeing it's progression.

[beeman]

Beating panels. The original ffr passenger side tunnel panel sticks out towards the passenger seat, maybe for the e-brake? I'm doing the opposite, pushing it into the tunnel to make as much passenger room as possible.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190720/68ks458b.jpg

Driver's side modified for access to battery, etc.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190720/rdppkf54.jpg

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190721/ie7gamgi.jpg

Per another thread, modified the fuel filler for a vent which also allows fine tuning of filler neck position.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190720/29mvn43m.jpg

[beeman]

This last battery access panel will be the hardest, my right leg occupies that space so the panel will have a complex angle. Haven't decided on aluminum vs fiberglass for that one...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110955&d=1563662104

110955

[KGTM]

Beeman, Here is my steering wheel thought you may like it, finally it is done.
Functioning horn button with 6 extra buttons, need to figure out what to so with them.

Mostafa111196111197

[beeman]

Beeman, Here is my steering wheel thought you may like it, finally it is done.
Functioning horn button with 6 extra buttons, need to figure out what to so with them.

Mostafa111196111197

Very nice! Solid carbon fiber? Looks like you are using a single hard wire with different resistors that are interpreted by a processor? That's probably the ideal setup...

[KGTM]

Yes on carbon fiber and I have my own hardware for decoding the keys and basically replaces the horn connection so nothing extra so it works with standard quick release.

I not sure what to do with then yet, but some ideas are left and left self canceling signal, high beam, all window up/down, may the other two for my dash gauge selections and horn

Mostafa

[beeman]

I like the window idea if you have a pair of extra functions, I'll also have wiper + washer spray

[KGTM]

Just want to have few thing I use a lot, like self canceling signals, may be high beam at night, the reset I do not use as much, may be wipers, but my car is not ready for rain.. and I hope it never sees one.

I have no other buttons in my car, expect what is on the column and these.

Mostafa

[beeman]

I forgot to mention, one other steering wheel button I'd like to have is the radar detector mute. It drives me nuts reaching over to find that button...

[Jake From State Farm]

Are you using a hard wire kit? The kits with a remote let you position an auxiliary mute button wherever you’d like. I put mine on the left side of the tunnel, where your hand naturally rests if your elbow is on the console. The end result is that you can mute the beeping without taking your eyes off the road. The switch naturally lands where your thumb will be.

[beeman]

I have the R3, currently in the cig lighter. Do hard wire kits have a remote mute button?

Got my rear window installed, love the view.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190726/ua56l3s4.jpg

Intake done, 4" to air filter behind the driver's rear inlet. Will build an airbox.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190726/95mkumoo.jpg

[KGTM]

well in bay area one might as well forget about radar, it goes off all the time, but If I had radar, that might be one.

I just need to make this work for now and get car registered as I am getting too old to get in this car.

For now it looks good and that may be the most important thing.

Mostafa

[beeman]

Got my rear splash guards installed. Required a little massaging, no big deal. As you can see, prior builder owned rivet stock...

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190727/sq8ah8vt.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Beeman

I have an Escort 9500ci hard wired installed radar system and it has a mute function it one need to use it. In Wyoming where I live not sure I really need a radar detector but might need active radar and sonar to keep from hitting Deer, Elk, Cows or what ever manner of critter decides to jump out in front of you even mountain goats !!

[beeman]

James, you'd probably be better off with a flir system like Cadillac and Mercedes have optioned in the past. I remember reading an article years ago about a Gumball type coast to coast race where a team ran a flir system to spot police hiding under overpasses...

Got the rear aluminum done with the body square to the frame. Wheel center cap to plumb Bob hanging from edge of rear fender is 70mm right side, 69mm left side.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190728/b6p5clt7.jpg

Pulled GTM off the lift, will be nice when it's self powered...new fluids for the roadster, off to Autobahn CC in the morning.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190728/j9c3nfgx.jpg

[crash]

Here's the Flir I use on the race car...

https://www.opticsplanet.com/flir-systems-pathfindir-ii-7-3hz-ntsc-kit.html

[beeman]

Mike- I'm very familiar with that unit, intimately familiar with the 1st gen unit. Cool stuff and very rugged.

Tucked in for a good night's sleep before a very, very,
very exciting day tomorrow...

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190817/frwok5ws.jpg

[beeman]

What an amazing experience...


https://youtu.be/8xhh6OOOsWY

[jamesfr58]

Looks you were have fun......

[beeman]

Looks you were have fun......

Great weekend with great friends and a great FFR product on a sacred, legendary track. I'm the tall one in this picture.

https://s18.directupload.net/images/190819/eoww5d4s.jpg

[KGTM]

I really Need a day like that. it has been nothing but work.

[beeman]

I really Need a day like that. it has been nothing but work.

Yep, back to work this morning!
Work hard, play hard!

[beeman]

Couple little updates.
Got the hatch hung. Is there some play in the hinges in the closed position? Probably will go away when the weatherstripping is in?

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/kzxidf65.jpg

Simplifying the external door handles to pull-releases. Here's the replacement for the Miata handles.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/i5nf75ws.jpg

[jamesfr58]

I have adjusted on the hatch for a couple of days now and think.... I finally got it in a good place with little to know play. It seems you can adjust the hatch forever, but decide on a happy medium and will go with that and make the rest fit.

Looks like fun at the track, cant wait to get my GTM on the track, glad you had good time.

[beeman]

Thanks, James.
Finishing up the spoiler. Going to reinforce internally, then bond together with the rear hatch. Will have a small subframe to support the aerodynamic stresses.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/wx4hhjjo.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/w2jwk23i.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yes, there is always some play in the hatch hinges. We do not use any weatherstrip around the hatch opening....mostly because there's no room for it. If you are using the hatch glass, the weight of the glass helps stiffen up the hatch and add enough weight that you don't really notice the play in the hinges as much....

[beeman]

Axle time...
Disassembled, cleaned, reassembled my low mileage donor vette outer CVs. Some CVs have narr/wide race/body orientations, everything on the C5 CVs measured equally. Here is the right orientation of the cage (rounded corners face the boot) and the race (machined lines face the boot - other side is smooth).
Messy job but not bad. Really had to take a full swing with the mallet to get it off the c-clip on the vette axle!
Ordered some Redline CV grease then will pack and install on the FFR axle. Feel free to throw out tips! I think I've read everything I can about the dreaded c-clip...

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/85d8od75.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/hkwgda8g.jpg

Here's the correct assembly orientation.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/e7nn62sq.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/r5far5uh.jpg

[crash]

The race team I was a part of ten years ago was sponsored by Red Line. Don't get me wrong because they have great products and some things I will ONLY use Red Line Oil products for. I mention the sponsorship angle only so you understand that we could use any Red Line product we wanted and it cost us nothing. That said, one of the few Red Line items we would NOT use was the CV grease. The problem with it was that it liquefied at too low of a temperature. You might be fine with that on a street machine but under heavy racing conditions it is not good. It is very difficult to find a grease that does not liquefy, does not chalk, and can handle racing conditions for extended periods of time. I mix my own and do not sell it, but it has worked flawlessly during the 25 hour long races we run. I can tell you that the major ingredient in my mix is Bel Ray Assembly Lube because of its extremely high molybdenum content. The grease tends to chalk with extended periods of high temperature so I add some things to address that, but straight Bel Ray Assembly Lube is what I recommend to my customers to be used for CV grease. Pick up a bottle and I think you will see immediately when you open the top why I use and recommend this grease. One can/bottle of this lube will pack two CVs.

[beeman]

I appreciate the unbiased advice, Mike. Is this the one you are referring to? Looks like a brush applicator can? Thanks.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/wmuto5u7.jpg

Addressing the wiggly hatch hinges. I don't mind Piggly Wiggly, but you have to draw the line somewhere. It's cool to design and manufacture your own hinges for a component car, but sometimes it makes more sense to incorporate an OEM off the shelf part that you know works. Like Lamborghini did with their Nissan headlights in the 90s...

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/7tyyeo47.jpg

[crash]

Yep, that's it and that's a great price too.

[beeman]

Yep, that's it and that's a great price too.

I just ordered a couple of your polishing mandrels to prep the Porsche CVs. I didn't realize that you sell the Bel Ray lube too, crap.
Created a puzzle from the FFR hatch mount and 350z roadster trunk hinge. Same hinge I'm using for the front trunk.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/c9c2274y.jpg

Jig from right angle stock to make sure everything is parallel (especially since the hatch underside is concave).

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/pszf39up.jpg

Lining up everything on the hatch for tack welds.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/tyu7xmnc.jpg

Getting ready to fabricate mounts.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/eyqum72k.jpg

Much lower profile than stock hinges, better control of hatch height vs stock hinges, and solid when in closed position.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/ljpm8nbw.jpg

[dallas_]

Looking good. Thanks for the update, I enjoy following your progress.

[beeman]

Looking good. Thanks for the update, I enjoy following your progress.

Thanks John!

All done but no adjustments made yet...
The bulky steel hinge mounts are gone, now just simple studs off the main chassis tubes. With the FFR setup, my hatch would bind up at the corners of the body if I opened it more than maybe 50 degrees. Have about 85 degrees of arc now, limited by the hinge endpoint. Very solid and fluid. Much happier with this setup! No more sloppiness or play in closed position.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190901/hxxbz5mc.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190901/v7nns4qt.jpg

https://thumbs.gfycat.com/MeanSlightGlowworm-size_restricted.gif

[beeman]

I'm going to try something...

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/njmmjv7s.jpg

[beeman]

I had hoped to do something like this originally, but the FFR hatch hinge and bracket were in the way...

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/hwnlroa7.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/om2syhkd.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/g7fl358v.jpg

[Jkviper]

Nice job on the brake booster, also enjoying reading through your build thread.

[crash]

No issues on the Bel Ray. It costs me more than I sell it for by the time shipping etc. is calculated in. Your source is the cheapest I have seen. I will likely pick some up from them also. :)

[WIS89]

Dave-

You are a freaking magician!! I really admire what you are doing, and how you are getting it done!

Your vision and execution are extraordinary, and I can't wait to see this thing done; but I am sure enjoying the build process, and the ride you are taking us on!!

Keep up the great work!!

Regards,

Steve

[jamesfr58]

Dave

What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.

[beeman]

Thanks Jkviper, Steve!


Dave

What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.

Any of the US spec 350z roadsters/convertible, I think 2004-2008. NOT the coupe/hatchback. It's not plug and play, but really pretty easy to do with some simple welding.

[HardRocker]

I think I’ll steal that hinge idea.

update: I just bought a pair from eBay $18 shipped.

[Taz Rules]

Loving this.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Dave I have the hatch on now but still not happy with fit so will keep working on it and may change the hinges as the ones you made seem to work great.

[LCD Gauges]

Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?

[beeman]

Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?

It didn't match perfectly out of the box. I think you are referring to this picture (I still have not made any adjustments after welding it in, may need to adjust slightly). The 350z hinges really control the position of the hatch leading edge. There is an adjustment screw built into the hinge as well that allows fine-tuning of the closed position. Before I installed the hinge, the driver's side leading edge of the hatch sat about 1/3" higher than it is in this picture. I placed a weight on that corner of the hatch to hold it symmetric to the passenger side of the hatch while I welded the mounting studs for the hinge to the GTM frame (hinge was already bolted to the hatch). Now it knows where to live in the closed position. The FFR hinges didn't have that control of position, too sloppy.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/ljpm8nbw.jpg

[HardRocker]

With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.

Yeah, I had the same experience.....here is a thread I started on that:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28436-Need-Help-finding-Axle-C-clip&highlight=AXLE+SPRING+CLIP

I ended up finding some in a box on the shelf here, so never did try to order any or find them to purchase....

[HardRocker]

Thanks Shane. That 22727024 part number did the trick.

[beeman]

OK... Few updates. Life has been busy!
Homemade front fuse/relay box ready for harness wrap.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/pjr56pi3.jpg

Confirming that the A/C condensor will fit behind the passenger side intake.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/fl5ujt4y.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/igbvmhl6.jpg

Glassed in the 1/4 windows to match the Honda B-pillars.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/q9ksx7v2.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/vnq56rxi.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/eie9tbxk.jpg

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[beeman]

Built up my airbox, almost done. Will make a scoop for the intake (probably 3D printed).

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/vum98jvn.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/a9piwb56.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/lenoqits.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/qjkwfqv4.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/ocyvexp6.jpg

Kind of a pain building the box to fit the body at the air intake and work around the chassis tube!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/f8kjjb5j.jpg

Upgraded the 3D printer, I kept needing to print things that were too big for the build area on the old printer.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/byakuch6.jpg


117165

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[beeman]

Just about finished up the airbox. Not trying to win any beauty pageants since the outside will be covered with heat shielding.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191106/z4hpndex.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191106/6g3lbral.jpg

Air filter is accessible, the red portion of the airbox will be held in place by screws/rivnuts.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191106/rhndjzxp.jpg

[beeman]

Quick update.
Finishing up the wiring.
Yamaha R1 projectors, but they are switched side-to-side so they had to be cracked open and new beam cutoffs made.
https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/lomxsmi3.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/xhw87hrk.jpg

Done, here's a Pic taken just below the cutoff and just above it.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/jthni4u3.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/kdqfucvk.jpg

[beeman]

Finishing up the spoiler...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/xzl33tuo.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/gnnnm56f.jpg

[beeman]

Even back in '94 Honda was using variable resistors to control lighting, wipers, etc. So I'm having to tear switches apart and jump the internals to dumb them down a little.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/2ft5hin5.jpg

I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1.O4DbN6JQ5QG

[crash]

I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:



All you need to do is put a resistor across the LED leads to increase the draw when in use. The LED specific flashers are the official way to do it, but the resistors are the cheap and easy way to do it.

[SteveE]

Beeman,

here is a link to the load resistors that I used, for the led turn signal lights that were supplied by FFR.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/

Steve

[Jkviper]

I had to move the foot box forward and create a new firewall. I utilized 1/8" steel plate for the firewall. I incorporated modified Toyota pedals, converted from OEM hanging style to floor mounted. Utilizing C5 Corvette brake booster/master cylinder, Toyota 5/8" clutch master cylinder, Corvette fly by wire gas pedal converted to floor mounted. Driver footbox extended with sheetmetal into tunnel area, cooling lines will run outside the car similar to the 818.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160214/55slxyxx.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160213/83p8sjq2.jpg

Clutch pedal converted to floor mount

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/4bb65vza.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/nwsldhmk.jpg

Corvette booster with shortened piston rod, fashioned a 1/2" aluminum spacer.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160111/uwlws6jb.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/takqxyoa.jpg

Dave,

What are your thoughts on adjusting brake bias? You and I have a similar setup to our mid engine kits and I am not sure if I will need to add a proportioning valve to either the front or the rear brakes or both to dial it in. Curious what you are thinking.

Thanks,

Joel

[beeman]

Thanks Mike and Steve.

Dave,

What are your thoughts on adjusting brake bias? You and I have a similar setup to our mid engine kits and I am not sure if I will need to add a proportioning valve to either the front or the rear brakes or both to dial it in. Curious what you are thinking.

Thanks,

Joel

Joel, are you running ABS? I'm running the OEM C5 ABS/EBCM so I'm not so concerned about front or rear lock-up, but there still may be some imbalance under track conditions. I looked through some of the C5 forums and usually guys are changing calipers to get more braking from the rear. Some of the C5 Track guys have ripped out the ABS and went with a Tilton/Wilwood setup. I don't think a variable proportioning valve is a great option in my situation as it would probably screw with the EBCM. I'm wanting the best option for street + track. Track only, I would probably ditch the ABS and booster entirely.

[Jkviper]

No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.

With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....

[Jkviper]

With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....

Thanks so much Shane for adding your input. i’m Glad I have it backward, now it makes more sense with what I would need to do to get good brake balance. Dave, didn’t mean to hijack your thread and appreciate your feedback as well.

[beeman]

I'm pretty proud of my redneck 8 channel wireless steering wheel button system!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cuw8j3rg.jpg

Lots of tedious soldering...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cvhz549d.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191207/aq8g37md.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/62nd6z8t.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/fhz884ob.jpg

[beeman]

Continuing to mock up the console... I wouldn't dare build a C5 based kit without a manly DIC!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/zgf6gqlu.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/ktkgvpz7.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/5vaapfy7.jpg

[kabacj]

Thanks Mike and Steve.


Joel, are you running ABS? I'm running the OEM C5 ABS/EBCM so I'm not so concerned about front or rear lock-up, but there still may be some imbalance under track conditions. I looked through some of the C5 forums and usually guys are changing calipers to get more braking from the rear. Some of the C5 Track guys have ripped out the ABS and went with a Tilton/Wilwood setup. I don't think a variable proportioning valve is a great option in my situation as it would probably screw with the EBCM. I'm wanting the best option for street + track. Track only, I would probably ditch the ABS and booster entirely.

If you are considering tuning the GTM for the track
The proportioning setup from willwood is required.

I has stop tech custom build the calipers to match the weight bias and traction of the GTM. Even so the ability to adjust the bias really changes the turn in.

On the street it doesn’t matter at all. The GTM has so much extra braking capacity it’s silly.

On the track some form of bias adjustment is a must have.

The C5 although using the same components doesn’t drive anything like a GTM on the track. It’s apples and pineapples.

[kabacj]

I'm pretty proud of my redneck 8 channel wireless steering wheel button system!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cuw8j3rg.jpg

Lots of tedious soldering...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cvhz549d.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191207/aq8g37md.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/62nd6z8t.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/fhz884ob.jpg

Nice job man. Are you milling or printing those components?

[beeman]

Nice job man. Are you milling or printing those components?

3D printing. Prototypes in PLA, final components will be carbon fiber reinforced nylon. How's your track car? Any updates?

[kabacj]

3D printing. Prototypes in PLA, final components will be carbon fiber reinforced nylon. How's your track car? Any updates?

Very cool. Yeah I’ve been busy updating my capabilities in the shop for the next phase of development. I need some robots to help me get the job done. Updates are coming soon. :)

[Shoeless]

The redneck setup looks pretty sharp to me!!! Nice work

[beeman]

I'm naming this mod "The GTM can be a Grand Tourer".

I was privileged to have the guy who built the exhaust for this out to my shop a few days ago.

https://falconf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/falcon-f7-twin-turbo-1100HP-1030x579.jpg

He's going to make sure the exhaust routing works for the modification. On my end, it begins by narrowing the gearbox subframe so that the luggage compartments are accessible.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200112/h36gauvl.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200112/bvmpz43w.jpg

Can any of you mathematicians tell me how much shop space I lost to the 15' trampoline?

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200112/agpx73vn.jpg

[Shoeless]

Apparently not enough space to hamper your build LOL. Maybe one day I’ll have a shop big enough to fit my build(s) and and trampoline :p

[beeman]

Time for the diffuser. Well, I've been studying this book

https://prodimage.images-bn.com/pimages/9781787110861_p0_v1_s550x406.jpg

The Gen1 diffuser measures almost 30 degrees which certainly does not work. Unfortunately it's a single unit so the angle can only be changed by cutting it.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200116/jzomytjz.jpg

Edit : that's better. The underside (that you don't want the airflow to detach from) is very rough. I'll sand it down and clear coat it to make an air-friendly surface. If you install per manual, do not consider the diffuser as more than a cosmetic piece. Which is fine, of course, for street cars that don't exceed speed limits by too much.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200116/oqvvewtt.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200116/kkldu8yt.jpg

[beeman]

So here's what 10 degrees looks like at ride height (4.75" at rear of main chassis tube). My rear 'bumper" might be slightly higher or lower than FFR design due to my mods. 7 degrees of diffuser angle is what most say is safe for a functional diffuser without wind tunnel work and without assistive aero devices (ie a rear wing). 10 degrees should be safe with a spoiler or wing, maybe even 15 degrees with a wing. At 10 degrees, there is about 20mm of clearance to the ground at the edges of the diffuser so it would need trimmed for street use, probably even for track use. I'm thinking that the best option would be 2 diffuser angles, easily switched, with around 10 degrees for the track and a higher angle for the street where efficiency is not a concern for the most part.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/wfgmh7uo.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/9lmz6bjy.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/6265e3e8.jpg

Now it's starting to look like a functional diffuser. These guys are running the highest angles they can to maximize downforce, so you can see where they found the limit even with big wings...

http://www.slipstreamnetwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/81C47B47-DD6A-4BF0-ABF6-E971F23D94FC-621-000000377BE834B5_tmp.jpg

http://www.slipstreamnetwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/DD097605-5C9D-4FDC-BFA9-BB97964D4A09-621-000000313515A388_tmp-1.jpg

http://www.slipstreamnetwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/fans12side.jpg

Again, here's me at 10 degrees.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/i7yjpugz.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

That's low; it would be tough going up steep driveways.

Function over form, or form over function? :/

[beeman]

Yeah I'd only run it that low on the track and will still trim up the edges some.
Here's another pic of a successful design.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/IMG_2467.jpg

[crash]

You should know that you will likely see some changes to the FFR PDG GTM as far as the diffuser is concerned this year. This is not due to functionality, but because most governing bodies require that the diffuser not protrude past the rear bodywork of the car. (see most other examples posted above) Since we will be running some other race series this year, we will likely have to change the diffuser and possibly the splitter as well. Again, many series rules have a limit as to how much a splitter can extend past the front of the car.

As I have mentioned in the past, when looking at other examples of people doing something on a race car it is important to understand not only what you are seeing, but the context, as far as rules are concerned that maybe limits what the builder is able to do.

What I have done on the FFR PDG GTM and is shown in that picture is essentially lengthen the body in the rear via wing and diffuser placement.

[beeman]

Thanks Mike. I was actually pretty impressed by the size of the splitter. Are there restrictions in the unlimited class? You could always follow McLaren and do a 'longtail' bodywork mod.

Funny, I've been thinking about a rear trunk since I made this render back in 2011..

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200118/e6jk68qe.jpg

Plenty of room for a pair of duffel bags on EACH side.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200118/f7klmm6x.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200118/2hnyndoi.jpg

You say you need 10 of the 5qt Mobil 1 oil and 4 gallons of antifreeze from the auto parts store? Leave the truck at home next time and put half your haul in each trunk with room to spare (although I wouldn't put that much weight in the trunks).

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200118/t6alffot.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200118/ebavajzw.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Bee

The blue Cobra look great, been trying to decided how I want my doors to open do great to see you trying new ideas, keep it up as I am interested in how they come out. I was looking a some type of lambo hinge but still not sure yet..

[beeman]

Thanks James!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200118/ajp7btvy.jpg

Someone up north did lambo door hinges and had a lot of trouble making it work, maybe it was Tino? My doors are basically Honda and I deleted the front wheel vent, I think it was the wheel vent that gave him the trouble?

[Shoeless]

Love the blue cobra!!!!

Yup, its Tino in Canada that did Lambo style doors on his GTM. I remember reading that as one of the first build threads I was reading before I ordered my kit. He is a very nice guy and answered all my newbie questions early on, so I'm sure he would be glad to share more about his door setup.

[crash]

Thanks Mike. I was actually pretty impressed by the size of the splitter. Are there restrictions in the unlimited class? You could always follow McLaren and do a 'longtail' bodywork mod.



For the endurance racing things are wide open, but the FFR PDG GTM is looking to run a full season of Trans-Am this year. They allowed us to run two races without making changes, but now they want us to conform to the rules. They are very particular. We are making some changes. Mainly to the wing, splitter and diffuser.

[beeman]

Got the axles done.
Started by prepping the Porsche CVs per Crash's video with his air grinder attachment. Man, what a difference. Definitely going to keep some metal debris out of the CVs.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200204/zg9ssqey.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200204/z2jbqjlz.jpg

Went with about a 50/50 mix of BelRay and Swepco 101. They look similar but the Swepco is thicker.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200204/ug2m3vqu.jpg

As discussed in another thread, I broke down and made a tool for installing the Corvette CVs over the c-clip. Turned a painful, messy procedure into a chip shot. I'm mailing the tool to Shoeless, get ahold of him if you need it.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200201/t59npwag.jpg

These RioRand DC motor controllers are great for HVAC fans, infinitely adjustable instead of 3 or 4 fixed speeds. Running one for passengers, one for windshield defog. Printed a simple mount that will zip tie to the chassis.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200204/4fvkjczj.jpg

[beeman]

Some little things here and there. Mocking up the three-point seat belt for the driver's side. This will be interesting, both the driver and passenger side 3 point seat belts will come from right to left. In the Cobra, I only have five point seat belts. And sometimes it's nice to just hop in and go, so I definitely wanted 3 point seat belts as well. These are Toyota.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200314/ayfhc6ja.jpg

Confirming ergonomics, just about ready to wrap up wiring, literally.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200314/bpsb2iat.jpg

Headlights are back together and sealed with LED low / high beams and LED Switchback DRL / turn signals.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200314/kg9yw79l.jpg

Porsche Le Mans ignition location for quick departures...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200314/fykav632.jpg

[Shoeless]

Are you going to slide a tablet in the red center console piece or were you using to to check for and function before you do a permanent setup?

[beeman]

Yes, that is a temporary tablet bezel, printed it part of the way up so I could check fitment, final bezel will be full surround, at least that's the plan at this point.

[beeman]

3 point seat belt mounting studs welded in. I was able to tie into the driver's harness bar for the shoulder portion. Just need to either weld or 3d print guides on either side of the shoulder strap to keep it from sliding around and pretty it up a little.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200314/hq7otnn2.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200314/9o799s99.jpg

[Shoeless]

Yes, that is a temporary tablet bezel, printed it part of the way up so I could check fitment, final bezel will be full surround, at least that's the plan at this point.

Very nice!!!

[beeman]

Thanks!
Needs some tweaking, made a quick print from some lousy measurements, but this is the idea...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200315/n5axwrg6.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200315/nqjojd27.jpg

[Matt Ries]

Beeman, on this rainy southern western Ohio day I spent it reading and being amazed by your build. Not only is your build very interesting but the pics, your writing and documentation of what you are trying to do are very well done. Also of note is your skill and skill set increasing over time. Thanks for the time you took and are taking as you continue to completion. Very excited to see the progress to come!

Matt

[beeman]

Thanks Matt!

Took a little more time and did it right the second time.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200315/vcbjkaep.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200315/e5qbdqg5.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200315/dncgyflq.jpg

[jamesfr58]

3-D printing is a a completely new way to take a look at parts, and its fun as well. Make toys of grand kid's as well as parts. It amazes me to watch you are doing in your build. You will have a car no one has ever see before and I bet I will really stand out as a one of one. Keep up the great work and I will keep checking the progress, think you have posted and lessons learned along the way help all of us builder out. Thanks

[Shoeless]

I love me some 3D printing, especially since I spent the last two years at work on a killer project. Now that patents have been filed and we are about to make a public notice, I can share a little bit about it. If you get bored take a look at the below video of the P&W TJ150 Engine. Our project was to 3D print the entire static hot section of this engine and then perform engine testing. We combined the Diffuser, Turbine Nozzle, Combustor, Fuel Manifold/Injectors, Exhaust, and Combustor case into one 3D printed part. We successfully reduced the part count by 99% and ran up to temps in excess of 2000 deg F and ran it more than twice the mission life.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds0PhkRYbBs

[beeman]

I love me some 3D printing, especially since I spent the last two years at work on a killer project. Now that patents have been filed and we are about to make a public notice, I can share a little bit about it. If you get bored take a look at the below video of the P&W TJ150 Engine. Our project was to 3D print the entire static hot section of this engine and then perform engine testing. We combined the Diffuser, Turbine Nozzle, Combustor, Fuel Manifold/Injectors, Exhaust, and Combustor case into one 3D printed part. We successfully reduced the part count by 99% and ran up to temps in excess of 2000 deg F and ran it more than twice the mission life.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds0PhkRYbBs

It's amazing that additive manufacturing can have that kind of strength and durability. Maybe one day that type of machine will be in people's homes. Any idea what that machine costs? I've mentioned it before, I saw an early 3D printer about 15 years ago at a biotechnology company for prototyping that I don't believe had much more capability than mine. They paid close to $500,000 for it! So we're at 1/500 the cost in a little over a decade...

[Shoeless]

It's amazing that additive manufacturing can have that kind of strength and durability. Maybe one day that type of machine will be in people's homes. Any idea what that machine costs? I've mentioned it before, I saw an early 3D printer about 15 years ago at a biotechnology company for prototyping that I don't believe had much more capability than mine. They paid close to $500,000 for it! So we're at 1/500 the cost in a little over a decade...

It is pretty amazing the capability that is out there. We printed these engine parts on an SLM280 machine out of Inco 625 and I would say this equipment setup was in the neighborhood of $1 million. That's not including the heat treat furnaces to perform stress relieve, solution heat treat, and HIP (Hot Isostatic Press). I wish I could share the CFD, but its highly proprietary,the stresses this system handled were absolutely amazing.

[KGTM]

Now you need to install some on your GTM.

very cool project.

Mostafa

[beeman]

Ordered some resin and CF, mainly for skinning parts. I can't believe it, $18 a yard for 50" CF, seems like a steal?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-yards-Carbon-Fiber-Fabric-Cloth-2x2-Twill-Weave-5-7-oz-50-wide/112578264618

[Shoeless]

I can't wait to start messing around with CF skinning and vacuum bagging some parts. Looking forward to what you are working on.

BTW, I pulled out axles out of the boxes today and inventoried all the parts to put it all together. Looking like I'll be able to start working on them this weekend.

[Jake From State Farm]

FYI - you can start a nice vacuum bagging setup with the vacuum pump sold at harbor freight. Just buy a few fittings and hose from a composites warehouse and you’re good to go.

[beeman]

Modifying cabin means I need to seal it from the engine bay. Should be a much better seal than as-delivered. Making interior templates. Will be 040 aluminum/lightweight thermal-noise barrier/Alcantara interior.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200321/viv2q7pu.jpg

Twin fan heater core. One fan for cabin, 2nd for dedicated windshield defog. Marine exhaust fans. These move a ton of air.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200321/49693gum.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200321/v9ik728a.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200321/7i6jru9e.jpg

[jamesfr58]

3D print and engineers dream and a great design tool, really like seeing them being used outside industrial setting to help builder like us in a private setting. Keep the ideas flowing and I will keep reading your design changes and build that is completely off the wall you your own design...

[beeman]

I fabricated a male hatch latch, the receiver is Toyota Celica. Bonded it to the hatch. Tomorrow it will get a few layers of fiberglass cloth to complete the construction.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200322/p6ilny2u.jpg

Interior paneling is coming along, it is 040 aluminum, I corrected that above. This Harbor Freight electric metal shear is great, it cuts like butter. Will smooth everything out once it is cleco'd in. Ordered another 50 clecos, ebay has used ones $25/50.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200322/lxi8hylv.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200322/bk2jsx5u.jpg

[beeman]

Done panel beating for a while. This was one of those projects that I was not at all looking forward to, I'm really happy with how it turned out. No fumes will be coming forward.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200324/y8ipiomz.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200324/lpiuspwe.jpg

Will do some form of roll bar padding over the entryway unless someone has a better idea. Here's the kit Longacre pad for an idea.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200324/ewahazxn.jpg

Modified the seat belt guide to replicate OEM to smooth out the belt travel and eliminate any binding.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200324/5sjejvba.jpg

No airbags in the GTM obviously, so I'm using rear seat 3 point belts. I'd be careful with OEM seat belts that are designed in conjunction with an airbag (like the C5). Most of the OEMs have a warning sticker on the belt reel like this C6 belt:

https://www.pacificmotors.com/wp-content/uploads/imported/7/Set-of-2-Front-Seat-Belt-Retractor-Ebony-Black-19151308-19151307-Corvette-06-12-303078282997-4.JPG

[beeman]

Few updates, finished fiberglassing the trunk latch. It sits right above the Kooks crossover, so I'll need to do something drastic to remedy that :cool:

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200329/gdacfldz.jpg

Another jig for the 350z Roadster hinges, this time for the rear luggage trunk. Waiting for the 3M 8115 to arrive to bond them.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200329/mtkkq3h9.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200329/w4o9kyoy.jpg

Taillights are wired up and functional! Hooked up the battery to test. Still the rough prototype housing.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200329/cqvxtdj2.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200329/ywvwy7aq.jpg

[beeman]

On the main rear hatch, I didn't countersink the rivnuts into the fiberglass so I made some aluminum plates to spread out the hinge forces. I should have just recessed the rivnuts...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200329/js5r9thp.jpg

[beeman]

Got the trunk hinge plate/studs finished and etch primed, prior to priming I used a cutoff wheel to create a cross hatch pattern for more bite.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200403/llwdnf3e.jpg

The 8115 is a cinch to use, 90 min working time. Hand mixed it. To bond the 2 plates, I used about 15% of the cartridge and even wasted about 25-30% of what I mixed up. So it should last a long time.
To keep the mix correct, I measured the plunger depths.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200403/vy3vsbcv.jpg

Cleco'd for positioning plus a couple added clamps. Can handle in 4 hours. So should be able to apply overlying glass this afternoon.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200403/rmwgn9lv.jpg

[beeman]

Made a couple stud plates for the trunk hinge mounts.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/b65oyziz.jpg

Tacked in the hinge mount plates, 1/2" square tubing frame. Verifying geometry. Will add some triangulation.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/sf5h5b8r.jpg

The crossbar is a temporary alignment jig.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/kwlklff2.jpg

Oh yeah, the hatch opening narrows as you move aft. Oops. Just had to clearance the body flange minimally.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/haxk4h3b.jpg

[beeman]

I like this a lot.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/89oyrvhs.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/5ciffybz.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/su77gemx.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/356t8y88.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200404/tjaimrvl.jpg

[beeman]

Yes, building this was as painful as it looks.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200406/nnmfoc8i.jpg

I'm almost embarrassed to post this pic, but it shows the complexity of incorporating the C5 gauge cluster in a Honda dash. I've cleaned up worse rat nests...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200406/p3b2in86.jpg

Everything seems to be functional at this point. I have an unhappy DIC full of warning messages. As it should be. I was glad to see it start firing off orders at me.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200406/ox7eohh4.jpg

[beeman]

Back to bodywork, we're getting some great weather this week so the shop door is open.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200406/38nm78sf.jpg

[Shoeless]

That rear dual hatch is pretty slick, but the wiring makes my head hurt LOL. “SERVICE VEHILE SOON” had to laugh a bit on that one.

[beeman]

Fitting passenger seat this afternoon. Again, converting reclining seat to fixed back.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200409/gg3ns5n9.jpg

Leaving plenty of room behind the seat for hvac. Perhaps a cubby or glove box, but there's already front and rear trunks...

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200409/t3dxgrkf.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200409/xq5j5hpa.jpg

Matching driver's side geometry.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200409/orskbqzs.jpg

[beeman]

Back to arts and crafts time. Created a single fender vent in CAD, was initially thinking parallel, even vents. But I changed that to slightly angled vents (angled away from the cabin slightly) and tapering in size. Printed the first vent, mocked up the additional vents with paper, then back into CAD to create each vent. The remaining vents are on the printer now.

So I've pretty much convinced myself that I will be making molds of my hood and fascia due to the amount of changes made and body filler/fiberglass layers added.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/xv3uvy8x.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/5ro23zyr.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/lc8qdizn.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/dhxhy8qg.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/ca5thg2u.jpg

[beeman]

I think this works. Does anyone think anything looks off with the vent layout or position? I just laid them on this morning, will contour them and blend them in. The nice thing about PLA is that it softens easily with a heat gun to contour to the fender.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/2svkqdu7.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/9jbesnpm.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/4r5cxzm2.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/v5rv3xjz.jpg

[Shoeless]

I think those look really sharp. I’m thinking of attempting to recreate the FF fender vents out of carbon fiber and then just bolting to the fenders. We’ll see when I get there.

[beeman]

I think those look really sharp. I’m thinking of attempting to recreate the FF fender vents out of carbon fiber and then just bolting to the fenders. We’ll see when I get there.
Thanks for the feedback!

Back to the passenger seat, as everyone knows the cabin floor narrows along the center backbone as you move aft, which forces the seat towards the door. So some simple modifications were in order to allow the seat to move as far central as possible.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/mmscvkj6.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Fender vents look good, and you know what they same necessity is the mother of invention.... I am trying to decide what kind or how I want some fender vents for my build but have not gotten to the front end of the car yet. Was wanting something different that the FFR fender vents (they don't have any in stock anyway) to give it a different look. With the 3D print you can print almost anything so may have to design my own as well.

[beeman]

Fender vents look good, and you know what they same necessity is the mother of invention.... I am trying to decide what kind or how I want some fender vents for my build but have not gotten to the front end of the car yet. Was wanting something different that the FFR fender vents (they don't have any in stock anyway) to give it a different look. With the 3D print you can print almost anything so may have to design my own as well.

Thanks, James! The GTM as delivered probably does not 'need' fender vents as the front fenders are vented at the rear which is an efficient way of relieving pressure. I'm dumping my radiators into the fender wells so I can benefit from as much air extraction as possible. They certainly make for a more aggressive look.

Getting there one step at a time. Passenger seat is comfortable, first time I've been shotgun in a GTM. What's the passenger footroom like in the stock GTM? It's a little narrow in the footwell but I'd be comfy on a trip, and I'm 6'3". Good clearance for the E-brake too.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200411/szs6iy7n.jpg

[crash]

This picture in the rain clearly shows that the fender vents are needed...126305

[Shoeless]

This picture in the rain clearly shows that the fender vents are needed...126305

That's a friggin SICK pic!!!!

[jamesfr58]

That picture really show the air flow around the car, the fain makes it easy to see. Great picture and interesting information on air flow...

[beeman]

Thanks for the pic Mike.
How much of your PDG radiator airflow is entering your wheel wells? Or do you have your radiator 100% sealed to your hood vent?

[crash]

As you can see, it is pretty well sealed...

[beeman]

Successful EPAS test. Steering wheel is back at the house so you can see the assist with just spinning the hub. EPAS is activated by a switch so it's available on demand and can be disabled (ie highway cruising, track days). You can see me dialing down the assist, it's adjustable. Glad I made this mod. The EPAS is completely silent, all of the noise is the tires squeaking on the lift.


https://youtu.be/-c0Z-DbjL7o

[Shoeless]

Thats really cool!!!!!

[jamesfr58]

Looks like it work great, I have a EPAS with the adjustable diode but have not installed it in the car. Believe I can retrofit if I wanted but though I would try with out first. Anyway good video of how they work.

[beeman]

Unless you are increasing your caster significantly, you will probably find that you don't need power steering. Get your car to go kart stage and see how much effort you have in your steering. At 7.5ish caster, I felt I would appreciate EPAS.

[beeman]

Another tangent - air conditioning. I wiggled the C5 compressor into position and didn't like that I only have about 1/4 to 1/3" between the compressor fitting/lines and the Kooks headers. I researched options and ended up ordering the Dirty Dingo Sanden low mount, the Sanden compressor, and the Dirty Dingo compressor fitting. I'll have an additional 3/4" between the header and the compressor body, PLUS the fittings come off the side of the compressor which saves another inch behind the compressor. So I'll have about 2 inches of clearance from the header to the new unit. Plus the lines aren't exiting next to the headers.

So I figured I would get started building the system while waiting for the compressor portion. The condenser is located in the passenger rear behind the side intake. It fit fairly well in a vertical position... Unfortunately I found out that condensers have to be mounted horizontally. So I made some changes.
I started by wrestling with the GTM over something it hates to give up - real estate. In a car where every millimeter is needed, I found several INCHES (trying to contain my excitement as I type this) that could be better utilized than wasted. I marked the extremes of rear tire excursion at full bump and rebound. There is a lot of space to bring the front splash guard back towards the tire to free up space for the condenser. Bringing the front splash guard rearward also solves the problem of where the air goes after the condenser, a gap is created over the top of the splash guard into the wheel well. And the splash guard is retained to protect the condenser from tire debris.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/igfwyhxb.jpg

So I bent the inner splash guard out just in front of the marked tire lines (these lines were drawn about 1/2" outside the diameter of the tire). This solved another problem, the inner splash guard had to be clearanced for the fuel crossover line and the fitting was exposed to tire stones, now it is safely behind the splash guards.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/nhjspj9z.jpg

Here's the new front and inner splash guards.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/l7n9a4sd.jpg

And the gap to allow condenser air to exit into the wheel well. Time will tell if the wheel well will need to be vented.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/s9sztski.jpg

This was the initial plan until I learned that condensers have to be mounted with the fittings horizontal to prevent oil accumulation and blockages.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/nvyx6zpr.jpg

[beeman]

So here is the layout. The side intake will be enlarged and ducted to the front of the condenser. I'll fabricate a shroud on the back side between the condenser and the Spal fan. With this location, I have the option of venting to the wheel well, the engine bay, or both.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/tvjxpaif.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/oe4vu3mx.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/xhyvqlei.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/vj7vsky2.jpg

[crash]

What makes you believe the condenser needs to be mounted horizontally? Almost all of the OEM setups mount the condenser vertically. Why would this condenser be any different?

[beeman]

What makes you believe the condenser needs to be mounted horizontally? Almost all of the OEM setups mount the condenser vertically. Why would this condenser be any different?

Sorry, lost in translation... Not fore/aft tilt, rather inlet /outlet line orientation. I was hoping to run it vertically like this:

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200417/eiub29l8.jpg

But you can't run the lines that way, they have to enter and exit the sides of the condenser like this :

https://res.cloudinary.com/dxb87fjeq/image/upload/l_watermark-logo/c_fit,h_500,w_500/qbkcwtrxiojvz6toyjdp

[beeman]

Got the condenser subframe built, bolts in and removable.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/cp2klu7v.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/9tfkwg9p.jpg

I wanted a larger side intake, so I made an incomplete cut through the inner side of the intake and hinged it inward. I actually like the look of the larger intake better than the stock size.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/btt55smd.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/in6zqdn5.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/mx9gxzk2.jpg

Finishing up the intake ducting.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/o2w8trjt.jpg

[Aman]

Fully agree on the larger opening looking better, very aggressive, that's a great idea.

I'm catching up on the GTM scene after a 5 year hiatus with my car, some time now with COVID lockdown and your build thread has been both educational and motivating, please keep up the amazing work! I imagine it's helping out many builders. Thanks man!

Aman

[beeman]

Thanks Aman! No shame in putting off the project to do life! Plus there are ideas and VRaptor parts that were unavailable 5 years ago...
I need to apologize to Shane's dog for interrupting their walk this afternoon, I needed a little tech help. I got the heater core circuit plumbed up and ready to hook up to the heater core. I have a valve that completely cuts off coolant flow right before entering the heater core. So per Shane's recommendation, I T'd 3/8 lines off the 5/8 heater core line that leads back to the expansion tank to ensure constant coolant flow back to the thermostat (my T's are 5/8" outer diameter but 3/8 inner diameter offshoots if you are wondering why the lines are all 5/8).

Here's the T-fitting, you can see the smaller aperture in the bypass circuit.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200419/f9ef4mv6.jpg

I really like this picture, it's 100% of the my heater /expansion tank circuit and 90% of my a/c system will be in this frame too.
You can see the coolant bypass line going back to the expansion tank.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/om56a6g9.jpg

Lines clear the fuel tank.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/nt2tfh27.jpg

Here's where it will tie into the heater core, shutoff valve pictured too.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200418/tm5945hb.jpg

I ordered this, will allow me to run all my a/c lines and then take them into a shop to squeeze the crimps. It includes the low and high side service ports. Drier will be in the cabin behind the passenger seat with the evaporator to increase efficiency.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71VPPfM7c6L._AC_SL1500_.jpg

[beeman]

Was going to do some bodywork today, made a nice dish of Rage Gold, went to squeeze out the hardener and it was bad. Got another tube on order.

So I found a couple of other things to knock out today. Decided to redo the driver's side seat belt upper mount for a more factory look. Ripped out the custom mount I made, then welded in a thick plate for the upper seat belt mount. It was an interesting weld, 4 different thicknesses of steel. I got a little crooked at spots, too slow to in a couple spots, was kind of an awkward position. Oh well, it's going to be behind a trim piece anyways.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200420/xnumd6h6.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200420/h6j2j5tt.jpg

Got the hvac unit installed behind the driver's seat. It was given to me, some kind of universal unit with combo heater core /evaporator.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200420/l37svjj2.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200420/7djp9aq4.jpg

[beeman]

Running hvac ducting. The unit and ducts are fairly hidden behind the passenger seat, but can be seen from the driver's side. I may make a beauty cover to hide them a little better.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200421/7s7uvx6f.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200421/kpyhhsqj.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200421/9e54mqw8.jpg

[beeman]

Picked up a dedicated track car. 99 FRC. Will be going on a major diet soon.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200429/zcr2n7s7.jpg

Some GTM parts arrived, will get the a/c system finished up.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200429/6879ahsb.jpg

Fabricating the condenser fan shroud.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200429/j5ewjyy5.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Cool, have fun with the track car. Haven't been working on the GTM in the last few days and my double oven quit, my dishwasher flooded the floor and the range hood lights quit working so back on the honey do projects first, especially since we are still staying home and I can't get away from the task master but going to get back out in the shop tomorrow. Have to wait for new motherboard, key pad and dishwasher to come in before I can do anymore. Hope they arrive soon, no dishwasher is not a good idea I found out, always though that was what the sink was for but guess I was wrong !!

[Shoeless]

Now that should be a fun track car!!!!!

[beeman]

Got the Dirty Dingo low mount with the Sanden Sd7b10 installed. Fairly straight forward installation per Dirty Dingo instructions, although a couple of aggravations could have been prevented with improved installation instructions. I'll try to post a write up in a dedicated thread. I love the result, and it's a proven LSx setup. Highly recommended, I did it even though I have at least 2 C5 compressors laying around...

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200502/4wqsm4lg.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200502/zkbp3nyd.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200502/6fk8gc6s.jpg

Much more compact.

https://thumbs.gfycat.com/EvenBreakableHeron-size_restricted.gif

Here's a strait edge marking the aluminum panel. With the C5 compressor, you need a kick out panel to clear it.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200502/fflaiex4.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Dang, that is a nice little package and certainly help keep it away from the sheet metal and the headers. Looks like a great replacement for the GM compressor.

[HardRocker]

Wish I would have known about the Sanden mount. I replaced our c6 compressor last year with oem but my neighbor is an engineer at Sanden’s assembly factory here in North Texas. I think I’ll put in a request for an SD7b10 for future sake.

[Shoeless]

That is a pretty slick little setup there.

[beeman]

Between home projects, had some time today to run out and fab up the fiberglass condenser fan shroud. Plywood ring to mount the fan, used packaging tape to protect the buck and condenser and to create the shape of the shroud sides. No need to get anal about it here, it's not going to be a visible. Glassed it up, will trim tomorrow.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200503/i56tdli2.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200503/ctdltvgn.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200503/xv7eku75.jpg

[beeman]

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200503/l3cmjvpv.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200503/lbo92wq5.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200503/j9t6m4og.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200503/gw5nihwd.jpg

[Ajzride]

Wow, that AC location is definitely outside the box thinking.

[beeman]

Wow, that AC location is definitely outside the box thinking.

I bought the kit 2nd hand, no box included...

Does the kit include closeout panels for this opening between the headers and the fuel tanks? I wanted to block out the heat so I made some.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200506/3myekk6r.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200506/zs2ev7vn.jpg

[Shoeless]

Yea there is an aluminum panel in the base kit for this. I also opted to coat it with Lizard Skin Thermal protection and place gold foil on my aluminum tanks. I haven’t delved into it much, but I’ll also have a fuel temp sensor that is pretty close to my fuel rail, that will feed into my ECU. Apparently there are some tuning adjustments I’ll be able to use to compensate for fuel temp changes.

[beeman]

Thanks for confirming that, must have misplaced them. I'll probably add some heat barrier as well.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

There are the panels that sit on top of the chassis behind the top of the tanks and then bend down over the tube and extend down to the diagonal tube next to the headers, but there are no close-out panels that fit below that to fill in the area you're covering.

[beeman]

There are the panels that sit on top of the chassis behind the top of the tanks and then bend down over the tube and extend down to the diagonal tube next to the headers, but there are no close-out panels that fit below that to fill in the area you're covering.

Ah, ok. I do have the piece installed that you are describing, Shane. I keep cramming more stuff between the headers and the passenger side fuel tank, so I wanted some heat shielding. My PCM may end up there as well...
Has anyone else blocked that off? Or has it not been a concern typically? It's a simple piece and no significant weight penalty.

[Shoeless]

Ahhh my bad, the panel I'm describing is the one Shane is referencing. Guess the pic threw me off a bit.

[beeman]

Ordered inner CV bolts from McMaster Carr from my measurements on my g96 gearbox, 10mmx1.5 bolts, 55mm long driver side, 60mm passenger side with the 4.5mm thick vss ring.

It's been ages since I've had the rear bodywork off, need to finalize wiring and have some welding finished. Getting closer to 1st start. My wife was kind enough to lend me a hand pulling the rear bodywork off, only took a couple minutes.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200530/cjhhxbey.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200530/bv4j5n2b.jpg

[beeman]

Another look at the a/c condenser

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200530/h9w35bxh.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200530/9igb8mjo.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200530/xcutagb6.jpg

[beeman]

Been super busy with life.
Went today and had the a/c lines crimped. Nice and simple, compact system. Will install after 1st start.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200605/pnrxvrtd.jpg

Another issue I knew I had to deal with was where to move the PCM to, no room left in FFR location due to surge tank, a/c components. This will work well.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200605/cfx7jmj2.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200606/wnmj5xsc.jpg

It is time to get things cleaned up and painted, winding down the chassis fabrication.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200605/hm8skmsj.jpg

Under dash space is at a premium, going with F40 style windshield defog.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200606/urcu5rtl.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Moving along, looks like you are making good progress, hope things keep going your way...:)

[beeman]

Moving along, looks like you are making good progress, hope things keep going your way...:)
Thank you James.
A little distracted at the moment, but will be back to the GTM soon. My wife accuses me of ADHD, whatever that is...I think she's just stringing random letters together again...

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200627/5bsy586h.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200627/l74gjp25.jpg

[Shoeless]

My wife accuses me of ADHD, whatever that is...I think she's just stringing random letters together again...



I think your wife and mine must be friends, I've heard these random letters every now and again :D

[jamesfr58]

Me to, but she even added a few more claims I have HDAD (high definition attention disorder) at at least 1080P and selectively hearing as well! :p

[KGTM]

Thank you James.
A little distracted at the moment, but will be back to the GTM soon. My wife accuses me of ADHD, whatever that is...I think she's just stringing random letters together again...

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200627/5bsy586h.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/200627/l74gjp25.jpg

Any one does this to a car must have ADHD, does not matter what it means.:)

[beeman]

Thanks for the laughs, you guys are cracking me up.

[beeman]

OK. Time to get this puzzle back together and running. Couple other car projects kept me pretty busy this summer.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/201030/7tw2nywg.jpg

[beeman]

Well, it's officially running. Kooks headers and midpipes only. We kept getting a good start but the engine would die after about one second. Stock C5 PCM tune. Any ideas?


https://youtu.be/No1z2izYrLk

[beeman]

We kept trying to trace down fuel issues. Played around with the pump, relay, checked lines, filter, etc. Ran some starter fluid to confirm fuel issue, and it ran on the starter fluid.


https://youtu.be/Ep3lo73QtSo

Decided I'd post troubleshooting questions here for you guys... Then called the tuner at Lingenfelter. Took him about 2 seconds to realize the anti theft system was activating. Duh! So it seems that the anti theft system still allows spark and fuel pump, seems to deactivate the injectors? Pulled the PCM, it's off to the tuner for a base tune to be followed by a formal tune when it's driving.

[Ajzride]

That has kicked my butt a few times on my 818 when the immobilizer randomly stops sending the good to go signal to the ECU. I wound up wiring up a small LED to duplicate the flashing light in the OEM unit so I could tell when it is acting up. Hopefully you can just get it turned off on your ECU, will save you a ton of headaches.

[egchewy79]

Congrats Dave!

[Shoeless]

That's a fantastic update, congrats on the first start!!!!

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yes, the running for 1 second is a common thing with the VATS. Be sure to tell your tuner to deactivate the VATS and ALSO deactivate the steering column lock (choose "not fitted") or the VATS will come back to haunt you later on. Many guys in the beginning (when we were all sending our ECU's in to FFR to have them programmed) had this issue. FFR was turning off the VATS, but leaving the steering column lock "on". The car would start and run...sometimes for months....and then out of the blue, it would not start anymore (well, start for one second and die like what you have going on).

[dlud]

I sent my pcm to FFR this summer for vats delete. They did delete vats but not the steering column...so vats would still kick in. I ended up getting HP Tuners module so I could properly delete vats and also to resolve other codes that popped up, etc. Wish I would have gone the HP Tuners route to start with.

[KGTM]

This looks nothing like GTM under hood and Frame, so much changes.

Congrats.

[beeman]

Thanks guys. PCM is dropped off, time to get things really moving for spring driving.
Another project that delayed 1st start, a friend and I installed a Challenger 10k 2-post lift. Just got the 220 ran today, all bled and balanced. Pretty excited about it.

139034

[KGTM]

Look nice to have these, Wish I had a space like you, so hard to do this in garage.

[beeman]

Getting the wiring into looms. Tuner has my PCM done with the preliminary tune, picking up today. Driver's side window mechanism in and functional, welded in new stops to match the right excursion. Getting the interior back in and interior panels mated up so they can be re-covered. Had to go back through this thread a couple of times to remember some things, like how the window mechanism mounts :p...
Still quite a bit of work to do, but it's basically a go kart.

https://s12.directupload.net/images/201219/3ntxwdst.jpg

https://s12.directupload.net/images/201219/6czm4wwd.jpg

[beeman]

Tuned PCM back in, ready to go-kart. Tuner just says no high revs until dyno tune. Doing a custom exhaust behind the Kooks headers, let me know if anyone is interested in buying my Kooks cat back (everything minus the headers).


https://youtu.be/3Cl-7ICq_Vo

[Shoeless]

Awesome work!!!! The little grin tells everything, you must be stoked!!!!

[Erik W. Treves]

Congrats!

[Jkviper]

Congrats!!

[KGTM]

Big milestone, congrats.

I took me a long time from engine start to licensed car, looks like at few of you guys working on it so hopefully will be ready this summer.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Sweet!! Congrats!

[crash]

Big Step Forward.

Congrats.

[beeman]

The tractor ignition key assembly didn't fit the car well so I swapped it to a Honda s2k push button. Much better.

139873

139875

[Jkviper]

Dave,

Congrats on the progress. I see you are adding some steering wheel controls. Wondering if you are going wireless, or some other approach.

I’ve been eyeing the Raptor Pro and the Freewheel wireless systems. There is also a Raptor knockoff on eBay for less that 1/2 price. The other choice I am looking at is using the Krontec quick release which can pass 22wires through the quick release.

Just curious what you are planning.

[cgundermann]

Congratulations- very, very cool!

Chris

[beeman]

Dave,

Congrats on the progress. I see you are adding some steering wheel controls. Wondering if you are going wireless, or some other approach.

I’ve been eyeing the Raptor Pro and the Freewheel wireless systems. There is also a Raptor knockoff on eBay for less that 1/2 price. The other choice I am looking at is using the Krontec quick release which can pass 22wires through the quick release.

Just curious what you are planning.

The off the shelf system was $1k+, so I made my own by basically using a couple of 4 channel car alarms which gives me 8 channels wireless. I briefly mentioned it a couple of pages back.

[KGTM]

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Check these in my car, with some work this could cost much lower than 1K, 6 input plus functioning Horn button all through the standard NRG quick disconnect contact ( 2 pins Ground and Signal), these is no other connections even for the lights, the output go from 0 to 12v for whatever you want.

Mostafa

[beeman]

Yeah, Mostafa, I lack the programming knowledge to do it that way. I think the ideal system is like the current OEMs with different resistors for each button function. I think that is how yours functions? Is yours Arduino based?

[KGTM]

Arduino could be good development platform unfortunately is not really designed and packaged for car so NO i do not use Arduino for my car.

in past 10 years or so I have developed several different body control module, some with few outputs and some with lots of output, please check below.

I finally settled on newer concept ( not shown below ) and that is the one I did all my car BCM with, it is small and almost fits anywhere with IP67 packaging, it very fast very low power in ignition is off mode( under ma per module , I use 11 in my car), my own CAN message system, my own OS and has it own relatively simple programming language, some co workers/friends for last 5 years keep telling me I should sell these to others so now seriously still thinking about it, may be 2021 is the year.

For the steering solution I just use the same modules, the network on the wheel is a bit more complicated than a resistors divider, since it almost has 7 button and lights all in one, most cars windows and mirror have lots more than 1 wire, but they do use divider network to reduce connection pinouts.

if more needed something like this, I would do a PCB for the steering hardware part so it will be easier other wise lots it could be a tedious but not hard.

Pictures of my progress over time, spent lot of money and time for all iterations.

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[crash]

AMAZING skills Mostafa.

Are those clear boxes sourced from something else or did you have those made?

[KGTM]

Thanks Crash.

They are made by Aptiv (Formerly Delphi), designed for holding fuses in IP67 sealed box, may be diode and few small items.

I just made my designed to fit inside, it was LIN bus based but LIN bus was too slow and by the time I got power and ground and communication there was no much pins left, once I installed on my car noticed too much base wiring ( 3 ) and things got busy fast, so caned it.

New concept is are crazy good so far, have put it some GT40 for some automated functions for a local shop here ( for most part he builds cobra and GT40), and now working on full BCM for Corvette 68( all lights, window. lock, fans, fuel pump, fuel level sender, gauges, RPM and Speed, and more, using 8 modules. for now it has all been free of charge.:)

Everything in car get better power ( 12v) and much less wiring and easier wiring diagram to keep up with since most of interconnections is in CODE.

Mostafa

[beeman]

Great stuff Mostafa

[KGTM]

Thanks beeman, mean a lot from you guys.

If I am going to sell then it will 2021 or never as I am getting to old for start up plus my regular day job, but I love this stuff so may be will happen.

Mostafa

[RR46]

Thanks beeman, mean a lot from you guys.

If I am going to sell then it will 2021 or never as I am getting to old for start up plus my regular day job, but I love this stuff so may be will happen.

Mostafa

Seems if you have the skills and passion for car builds - and you do, and you have first hand experience with your own build - and the skills to put together custom car network packages for hotrods and anything else, what a game changer for future builds. More EV drivetrains will make it into cars as well, and with that probably the desire to have a modern freely configureable body wiring that doesn't require tearing into the harness for every addition or feature. Another advantage I can envision is that it simplifies troubleshooting in case a harness / feature isn't working right.

[crash]

I have never used the ISIS system, or whatever it is called now, but my question would be, what is different about what you are doing as opposed to the already available ISIS system?

Also, I have used ECUs and PDUs (Power Distribution Unit) in builds that communicate via CAN. Again, what are the advantages/differences in your style of system?

EDIT:I see you did post a couple of items here that are definitely a step above what ISIS does.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32017-Professional-Motorsports-Wiring-Harness-Venture

What else?

[KGTM]

I have never used the ISIS system, or whatever it is called now, but my question would be, what is different about what you are doing as opposed to the already available ISIS system?

Also, I have used ECUs and PDUs (Power Distribution Unit) in builds that communicate via CAN. Again, what are the advantages/differences in your style of system?

EDIT:I see you did post a couple of items here that are definitely a step above what ISIS does.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32017-Professional-Motorsports-Wiring-Harness-Venture

What else?

To be honest I considered ISIS almost 10 years ago but as I looked more into it it was way too limiting for me, only thing in common may be they both use CAN bus but so do all cars today. All that breath are not all same

There are lot of difference, Few serious issues with ISIS that are not an issue with these.

I do not have ISIS, so below are just info from data sheet and few other users info

1. ISIS is too big for what it does.
2. Hard to fit places, like door and other places
3. A simple system cost you $1500, could easily run into 3 to 4K for more
4. Inputs limited to 5V only and can get damaged easily
5. Still all input have to go master so not much wiring saving
6. limited PWM outputs
7. output freq too low some thing, I think max is 500Hz.
8. Not customer programmable.
9. very limited analog inputs.
10. Switch must return ground back to master cell
11. Can not be left in your car active without battery discount more than few days, just think if you could have to disconnect you battery if you do not use your car fro few day

Some of reason I did this design.

1. Small in size but big heart., I use them in GTM door where there is almost no room, my whole door connect with only 6 pin connector which can easily be disconnect, (power, GND , two speaker wire and 2 can bus)
A. used for power mirrors
B. used for windows
C. used for popper
D. door open button, mine is on the door under the flat area close to door handle area
E. light on the button to show locked or unlocked

2. Used for my rad fan multi speed speed control
3. Extra temp sensor by radiator, but connection is only few inches from device
4. Control of the horton( heater) valve, if ii is left on with 12v gets supper hot and is not designed to be on all the time, so it first turn it on and then power the power to hold it in place
5. Power steering control, for speed vs assist level, ( I think you sell something for this that Enny did long time ago)
6. I use other sensors like fuel pressure, oil temp, engine bay coolant temp, oil level, all these connected in engine bay and then use by other in system if needed.
7. I have 2 engine bay fan that are controlled by these boxes, with full PWM so only runs max speed if engine bay is hot.
8, My hatch gate is powered and open by these,
9. MY hood is powered and open by these boxes ( need over 60 amp peak current)
10. All columns stuff is connected to then and functional, including the telescopic.
11, All radio are connected to this system
12. full functioning remote..
13 Full diagnostic, you can see all nodes voltage and some cases the current draw. check below example
14. Full system current, in my car every thing is connect to modules expect the ECU power
15. All my heater fans and ac is control by these and simulates the knobs.
16. General power to all device is much better, since one power line could be 12 or 10 guage depending on what they are doing but outputs 14 since they are so short to where they need go 16. Isis Draw several 100 ma per box, these draw under 1ma per box in ignition off mode, one does not have to disconnect battery all the time. most like typical cars with all the electronic
17. Low battery disconnect for items are may be Normandy on with ignition off, like radio and my dash so it comes on instantly, but if battery low ( x level ) it can turn them off.
18. Super simplified wiring, I think is one of the best part, is is basically excel sheet with function names, also mu dash shows all connections and name of function, I will attach picture

Hardware development cost is very high for these type of current and power it requires many rev and builds small package are expensive for assembly and not easy to do at home.
Basically these are small fits most places and lot of functionally that can be adopted to almost any BCM functions and some others things.
A bit left to imagination be glad to talk to you if anything specific you may need.

So sorry for long response.

Mostafa

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[crash]

So sorry for long response.

Mostafa



No apology necessary. That is GREAT stuff.

Yeah, I think you could likely market this to car builders.

[KGTM]

No apology necessary. That is GREAT stuff.

Yeah, I think you could likely market this to car builders.

I will think seriously about this, I may just setup and company and go from there, if I setone up I will become vender here so I can spend more time talking and marketing them.

Need some request for BCM and see if these devices can handle it.

Sorry Beeman, did not mean to derail thread a bit.

Mostafa

[beeman]

Holy cow, this thread dropped to page 3!
Been busy with life and 2 other car projects.
Got the C5 track car done, just needs a cage. Built to SpecCorvette spec. Doing HPDEs and hope to start racing when life allows.

https://s20.directupload.net/images/210802/64tn9ics.jpg

Tino is finishing up my custom dash for my Lotus Esprit project, hope to be running in the next few weeks.

Found some time to get back to work on the GTM. Going to pull molds off the front hood and bumper since there are so many changes. Filling in the major voids with drywall joint compound, then body filler, then seal everything and pull molds.

https://s20.directupload.net/images/210802/9ayh2bca.jpg

[crash]

Just a heads up. The joint compound is likely to crack and print through. I have even had fiberglass reinforced seams under significant amounts of body filler crack and show through. The issue seems to be having enough, or not enough, support to keep the two pieces from flexing and/or moving with temperature changes. I finally had to go to using a backing of fiberglass and resin and then V cutting the face and using fiberglass and resin. I am still redoing some areas where I only used the backing and not the reinforcement on the face.

[Ajzride]

Just a heads up. The joint compound is likely to crack and print through. I have even had fiberglass reinforced seams under significant amounts of body filler crack and show through. The issue seems to be having enough, or not enough, support to keep the two pieces from flexing and/or moving with temperature changes. I finally had to go to using a backing of fiberglass and resin and then V cutting the face and using fiberglass and resin. I am still redoing some areas where I only used the backing and not the reinforcement on the face.

Even for just taking a mold? I could see it being an issue if you paint it, but I’ve never had an issue with it lasting long enough to use as a buck.

[beeman]

Yeah I'm just hoping it lasts about a week! I'll let the compound fully dry before moving forward. I did put some expanding foam into the deepest part of the roof scoop recess to fill some of the void.
Shop is climate controlled, currently 71 degrees and 41% humidity.

[crash]

Even for just taking a mold? I could see it being an issue if you paint it, but I’ve never had an issue with it lasting long enough to use as a buck.

Well, I prime and paint my plugs. Only way I have found to get a smooth enough surface to work with the mold releases I use. Actually, I guess that is not true as I have never tried to use a surface that is not painted and polished. Maybe it will work with just release over body filler? Never tried that. Guessing the imperfections would show though.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

To me, it all depends on what you're after. If I were to be making a mould that I was going to use over and over again to make multiple parts, then yes, I would try to make everything as perfect as possible....but I've had good luck even with that by just using body filler over urethane marine foam, then painting the filler and creating a mould from that.

In beeman's case, if he's really just needing/wanting one good part, it's a bit overkill IMO to try to make the plug perfect. As long as the joint compound and the overall part is supported enough to survive laying FG and resin over (which really shouldn't be putting much stress or load on the plug) it should be fine. Why spend weeks on filler and sanding and priming and painting and blocking in order to create a perfect surface to pull the mould from if you're just making one part? I've done the same has him before.....used joint compound to fill the pores in the foam and get the foam smoothed out and use the joint compound to get the shape exactly how you want it, then paint over the surface with a brush or fine roller with latex house paint, spray on my mould release and lay out the mould from there. Will the surface be perfect? No.....but if you lay down a good layer of gelcoat, you will have more than enough gelcoat to block out the orange peel from the latex paint. You can still pull multiple parts from the mould, but instead of putting dozens of hours into the plug to make it perfect, now you can put a couple hours of block sanding the gelcoat to make the final part perfect. If the mould is going to have to be in multiple pieces, there's no way you're going to get a perfect part anyway and you're still going to have to block the whole thing out and body-filler the seams.....so why waste all of that time trying to make the plug perfect? Again.....that's my logic for moulds that you're going to just make one or two parts from. Just my $0.02

[beeman]

Plan is to pull 1 part, additional parts only if needed if you know what I mean...
Both the hood and the bumper will be 2-piece molds.
Appreciate the input from everyone!

[beeman]

Back to the GTM. Huge sidetracks with the C5 track car, Turbo Esprit, and 76 911s...

Getting the hood closer, but got bored and cut off the door hinges again... This car is begging for butterfly doors... I'm trying not to think about the brutality of making it work, multiple previous failures...

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[egchewy79]

back to the butterfly hinges, eh?
can't wait to see this frankenstein car finally finished :)
it's definitely going to be an original one-off.

[beeman]

Hey Chewy! Hope the GTM is finished to join you in London next year!

A few hours yesterday and today, I believe this will work. Never got far enough for a gas strut on previous attempts. Found a very old used gas strut in the shop, I'm impressed how it handled the door and window glass/mechanism /motor. Just a relatively small amount of more weight with the outer skin and door card. Will use a few inches longer strut. I'm very happy with this.

[beeman]

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https://s4.gifyu.com/images/easy-gif1665958910636.gif

[beeman]

Just a heads up. The joint compound is likely to crack and print through.

Good call. The joint compound absolutely cracked terribly, 1/4' wide cracks. I would NOT use it again even on a sacrificed part. Took a long time to dry too. But in the end it was a space/volume filler, cracking filled with body filler.

[Shoeless]

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https://s4.gifyu.com/images/easy-gif1665958910636.gif

Now that looks awesome!!!!

[beeman]

Now that looks awesome!!!!

Thanks, appreciate it!
Got the driver's side welded up today. Tedious getting it lined up perfectly symmetrically so the doors match when fully open. Measuring angles in 2 planes with the digital gauge, while holding and welding... Cardboard Aided Design was helpful getting the hinge symmetrical with the unibody, just trace and flip over. After it was all welded up, I measured from the shop floor to identical locations on the hinges (chassis is on blocks) and amazingly I'm right on. Probably should have checked that before I committed but I hadn't considered it in my plan. We'll only know the quality of my work when both doors are open...

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[Jkviper]

Nice work Dave

[beeman]

Thanks, Joel. I've enjoyed watching your SL-C build.

This is a painful process. Many attempts to get the doors symmetric. Each attempt means multiple measurements followed by multiple tack welds between the hinge and the chassis, plus getting the door aligned and welding the hinge mechanism to the door internals...and it takes quite a few welds plus welding in triangulating tubing so the door is stable enough to test. Only to ultimately find that I don't completely like the way they are positioned when open - I think that adjustments can be made to improve ingress /egress. They looked beautiful, completely symmetric...but I tore them back apart. I'm not sure how many tack welds I've cut this past week...more than I want to admit...
Anyways, getting closer.

[egchewy79]

dave,
any way to slot the plates on the door to allow for some wiggle room and adjustability once the mounts are on?

[beeman]

dave,
any way to slot the plates on the door to allow for some wiggle room and adjustability once the mounts are on?

Yes, the mounts are slotted but only in one plane which helps very little. For a butterfly door, you are dealing with x, y, z positioning plus rotation so you'd need a locking ball joint of sorts, actually a ball joint that you can shift in, out, fore, aft, up, down. As I write this, I realize that last sentence sums up the pain of this exercise. :mad:

But for a butterfly door, to make the door skin clear the front 1/4 panel, the hinge point has to be just under the 1/4 panel. This sets the hinge point way off the main chassis tubes which puts a ton of torque force on the mount, so it has to be very rigid, ie welded.

[crash]

I believe you are having issues because you are essentially trying to use a one point mount. Maybe try using two mounting points and spread them out a little?

I think the doors on the FFR PDG GTM race car turned out pretty cool. One of the keys to them is making them, essentially, half height doors. This makes the doors easier to deal with and also allows you to put in a heightened sill which has many benefits. You can slide in and out while sitting on the sills, they offer better side impact protection, and you can put car elements inside them. While the hinge parts are on the exterior of the car currently, they are on the list to move inside the bodywork and should be a pretty easy change. Just something to think about.

I was going to post pictures, but the photo manager is not currently available, at least for me, right now.

[beeman]

Thanks, Mike.
Everything is a compromise...
I recall looking at that option previously. I'm using the donor unibody A-pillar which likely wouldn't support the weight of the door like the tube chassis would.
It would involve hinging off the A-pillar cage tubing, which would involve some form of custom hinge to keep the mounting point in the cabin.
How do you intend to bring the hinge internally?
Thanks,
Dave

[crash]

Likely will use a J shaped hinge that, when the door is open, will wrap around the body as, like you pointed out, I will be attaching to the roll cage tubing. Our door is self-opening and limited in opening travel by a gas shock. Likely attachment point will be on the INSIDE of the A pillar tube in order to get enough throw on the hinge. Will be an interesting project.

[beeman]

Took advantage of a nice Nov 10 evening to get a couple of hours of filler and block sanding in.

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[beeman]

Lots of cycles of body filler /block sand /body filler...
Building up low areas where the rad vents were and where the new fascia transitions to the GTM hood. Ran out of Bondo, my 2 gallons of Rage Gold were past their prime. So I picked up a gallon of Evercoat which was available locally. Seems like decent stuff, lighter than bondo,easy to sand. About time for another gallon.

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I've been using the Evercoat Lite Weight body filler (100156) for years now and like it better than the Rage Gold. I could never get the Rage Gold to not clog the paper up.

Looks like you're making good progress!

[beeman]

I've been using the Evercoat Lite Weight body filler (100156) for years now and like it better than the Rage Gold. I could never get the Rage Gold to not clog the paper up.

Yes, hardly having any paper clogging issues with this compared to the bondo.
This is definitely lighter than other body fillers I have used, obviously I'm just using it to make a buck for a mould, do you use it on a final surface? Good durability?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Anywhere that I need more than just a light skim coat, I use Evercoat 100622 short strand fiberglass filler. Once everything is close to shape, then I skim coat with the 100156 filler.....and from there it goes to primer.

[crash]

Yes, hardly having any paper clogging issues with this compared to the bondo.
This is definitely lighter than other body fillers I have used, obviously I'm just using it to make a buck for a mould, do you use it on a final surface? Good durability?

I am using the same, and for the same purposes. What I find really nice is how fast it cures to being sandable. I can lay it down and 15 minutes or so later I can sand it off. I also use a "cheese grater" to rough shape just as it is starting to firm up. This saves a lot of time sanding if you are not precise in your layment of the goo.

[beeman]

Mike, are you talking about the 105000 or the 100156?
I found the 105000 locally, I need to look into the differences.