#9196 475hp 347 MK4 Roadster Build (Insurance and Plates)

[TexasAviator]

The goal... Have every nut and bolt hand assembled by this wing-nut (Air Force Aviator Joke). I feel that if you are willing to try you can do anything in life and with these cars. Everyone that sees my car and asks me about it wonders what it takes to build one. I tell them my life motto. "Fake it till you make it." To me that means you have to ACT like what you want to be until you ARE what you want to be. Through proven resources and research, I was able to build a high end car for low end money. The cost benefit analysis was applied to each step of the multiyear build. Through these tactics, techniques, and procedures I was able to have a car that is high in options but low in overhead costs.


Installs and Builds
The T5Z transmission build (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-DYNO-RESULTS-ARE-IN&p=274295&viewfull=1#post274295)
The 347 engine build (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-DYNO-RESULTS-ARE-IN&p=257845&viewfull=1#post257845)
When the car came in a big cool truck (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-DYNO-RESULTS-ARE-IN/page2)
Heater Core Install (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-DYNO-RESULTS-ARE-IN&p=302936&viewfull=1#post302936)
The 475hp/440torque Dyno Day (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-DYNO-RESULTS-ARE-IN&p=303842&viewfull=1#post303842)
The engine install (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-DYNO-RESULTS-ARE-IN&p=304924&viewfull=1#post304924)
Wheel and Tire Install (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-w-FAT-TIRE-INSTALL&p=315027&viewfull=1#post315027)
Aircraft Rivet Spacing (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-the-sacred-engine-install-occurred&p=311023&viewfull=1#post311023)
Hand Braided Chassis Wiring (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-the-sacred-engine-install-occurred&p=311016&viewfull=1#post311016)
Factory Five Driveshaft assembly (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-w-FAT-TIRE-INSTALL&p=315519&viewfull=1#post315519)
Lokar Throttle Cable and Bracket (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-w-FAT-TIRE-INSTALL&p=315646&viewfull=1#post315646)
First Start (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-w-FAT-TIRE-INSTALL&p=315761&viewfull=1#post315761)
Coolant Overflow Tank and Filler Neck Gates Brand Install (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-First-Start&p=315872&viewfull=1#post315872)
Wilwood Brake Reservoir install (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-First-Start&p=316013&viewfull=1#post316013)
Clutch Safety Switch Install (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-First-Start&p=316014&viewfull=1#post316014)
Air Cleaner & Engine Pics (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-First-Go-Kart&p=321864&viewfull=1#post321864)
High Mount 3rd Brake Light (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-First-Go-Kart&p=321868&viewfull=1#post321868)
Initial Body Fitment (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-Body-trim-installed&p=331505&viewfull=1#post331505)
Custom Factor Five Center Caps (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-Body-trim-installed&p=331520&viewfull=1#post331520)
Weather proof Weather Pack connectors (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-Body-trim-installed&p=331517&viewfull=1#post331517)
Professional 3M Interior Carpet Install (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-Body-trim-installed&p=331515&viewfull=1#post331515)
Chrome Mirrors Trim and Gapping Hood/Doors (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-s-9196-347-475HP-Body-trim-installed&p=331512&viewfull=1#post331512)
Power steering install (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-TexasAviator-9196-the-sacred-engine-install-occurred&p=311022&viewfull=1#post311022)
LED 3rd Brake Light (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-9196-475hp-LED-gauges-installed-in-radii-styling&p=334776&viewfull=1#post334776)

LED Interior lighting, Bluetooth Stereo Amp install ("https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22645-9196-475hp-MK4-(sound-system-andl-interior-lighting-done)&p=345115&viewfull=1#post345115')



ENGINE

TRE Performance California 302 race prepped and blue printed block, honed and plugged
Moroso Main Cap Girdle
Scat 3.4 Crank Shaft
Scat Connecting Rods
RaceTec Custom billet forged pistons Autotec -5cc (11.5:1 compression)
Trick Flow Stage 2 - 0.542/0.563 lift, 224/232 @ 050, 286/294 adv duration
Felpro .039 head-gaskets
Trick Flow 11R 190CC CNC heads with 2.055 1.6 valves .600 springs 56cc Chambers
Comp Cams aluminum roller rockers 1.6
Hand Fabricated Aluminum Valve Covers
Trick Flow Chromoly pushrods
Ford Performance Hydraulic Roller Lifters
PAC .600 valve springs
Trick Flow SS valves
Ford Performance Single Plane Intake Manifold
FiTech Go EFI 4 600 Horsepower system
Mr Gasket 1" Intake Spacer
KMJ Performance 15" Oval Polished Air Cleaner 2" Tall filter
Bosch 4.2 with AFR meter
MSD Foxbody Style Coil
Ford Raing 9MM Black Wires
Ford Motorsports Chrome Distributor Hold Down
Professional Products Locked out Distributor. My Lockout video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yynJWYp4KR0
Walbro 255 LPH Fuel pump
March Billet Pulley Kit
Gates 57.3 6 Rib Serpentine Belt
Gmb Waterpump
LMR Thermostat Housing
Ford Motorcraft 180 D Thermstat
Gates Water Filler Neck
LMR Aluminum Overflow Tank
LMR 29 Inch Wide Radiator
Trick flow 28oz Dampener
Felpro Gaskets including .039 Headgasket
Fitech coolant, temp, pressure sensors, and computer
Dorman Oil Pan
Ford Motorsports Chrome Dipstick and Tube
Melling Oil Pump
Ford Parts Pickup Tube (Modified)
Steeda Air Oil Separator System
Ford SN95 PCV Valve on PS Grommet and Valve Cover
Amsoil 30 Weight Zinc Break-in/ 10w30 Synthetic after Break-in
Powermaster Alternator
Yellowtop Battery

FUEL/IGNITION SYSTEM

Rhinohide 5/18 fuel line
Rhinohide 1/4 return line
Earls 6 AN Fuel Fittings
Gates 30R9 High Pressure Fuel Hose
Motorcraft Mustang OEM Fuel Filter
Walboro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
Ford In-tank Fuel pump bracket
FFR Fuel Cap and Retrofit
Ford Mustang Fuel Level Sender
Ford Electrical connectors retrofitted to chassis harness
Lokar throttle cable
Lokar throttle bracket
Lokar tandem return springs

CLUTCH/PRESSURE PLATE

King Cobra Clutch Kit (Made in Korea) 5-spring
Ford Racing Hex Flywheel Bolt Kit
RPM FPH-30228 Billet Flywheel, SFI 1.1 Rated
McLeod Clutch TOB Fork
Ford Adjustable Clutch Cable
Maximum Motorsports Billet Firewall Adjuster
Maximum Motorsports Billet quadrant

TRANSMISSION

T5 Z Tremec Transmission (hand built to t5z spec with the addition of electronic speedo and tail housing)
Motive 2.95 Alloy First Gear
Motive .60 Alloy Final Gear
Motive 5th gear lock/syncro
Ford Carbon Fiber Blocker rings (Syncros)
Ford 2000 Mustang tail housing
Electronic speedo conversion
Custom Billet retainer plate
Ford 1 piece finger selector
Ford Smooth no hole top loader style case cover
Pro 5.0 PRO-7210T5 Billet Shifter base
FFR Classic Shift Pattern Knob, Handle, Billow, and Chrome Bezel
Amsoil ATF Synthetic


DRIVESHAFT

FFR Chromoly T5-8.8

REAREND

Ford 8.8 10 bolt live solid axle
Ford 3.73 Gears
Ford Cobra Limited Slip Differential
Ford SN95 5 lug Alloy Shafts
Ford Cobra Rear Break Strengthening Brackets
Ford Performance Parts SVO Diff Cover/Girdle (old school)
Amsoil Gear Oil 75W-90 Synthetic (does not require friction modifier)

SUSPENSION

KONI Front and Rear Coilovers
FFR Upper and Lower Front Control Arms
Ford SN95 knuckles/spindle
FFR 3 Link Rear

STEERING

Ford Sport Suspension 2.5 Power Rack and Pinion
March Pulley/Bracket
Gates 57.3 Serpentine Belt
Ford Power steering pump
Castrol Transmax Type F Fluid
Ford Power steering lines
Maximum Motorsports Aluminum Steering Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Tie Rod Ends w/Bumpsteer Kit
FFR Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel


BRAKES

Wilwood Reservoir kits (2)
AGS Poly-Armour and Rhinohide 3/8 Hardlines
FFR Stainless steel braided brake lines
Ford Performance 2300-K Big Brake kit includes:
Bendix (PBR) SN95 Ford Performance Brake Booster
Bendix Ford Performance Master Cylinder
Ford SN95 Spindle Knuckles
Ford PBR Cobra 13" 5-lug Front Dual Piston Caliper and Rotor
Ford PBR Cobra 11.65" 5-lug Rear Caliper and Rotor
Ford Cobra anti-moan braces

WHEEL TIRE

LMR Staggered Bullitt Anthracite
Size: 17x9
LMR Staggered Bullitt Anthracite
Size: 17x10.5
275/40/17 Nitto G2 Tires
315/35/17 Nitto G2 Tires



https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1762/41472740020_d43f743c0a_h.jpg

[Jazzman]

Welcome to the insanity!! You have made the first dozen of about 100,000 decisions that you will make during your build. The best one was to include your family! We look forward to watching your build and helping you as the need arises.

[TexasAviator]

Welcome to the insanity!! You have made the first dozen of about 100,000 decisions that you will make during your build. The best one was to include your family! We look forward to watching your build and helping you as the need arises.

Thanks Jazzman,

I am humbled by the amount of knowledge on here and am willing to learn whatever I can.

[TexasAviator]

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161116_154554_zpsgzfgtrt8.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161116_154554_zpsgzfgtrt8.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161116_154612_zpsna4q6eqf.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161116_154612_zpsna4q6eqf.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161116_154629_zpsz7fqmdu2.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161116_154629_zpsz7fqmdu2.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

My tre performance short block review and the parts I chose for my 347 build.




https://youtu.be/qiO0xITzqeY

[cgundermann]

I am truly looking forward to this build thread! You my friend, by all accounts are a mechanic and have an entertaining story telling gift...

[TexasAviator]

Thanks cg.

[TexasAviator]

Cleaned up some parts with brake fluid and setup my balancer with some new bling... A 28oz counterweight.

https://youtu.be/CE1P6EZDMMk

[TexasAviator]

Moroso Canton ARP bolt upgrade install as well as some detail about the jewelry installed in my 347 build.

https://youtu.be/h5mleFuFOWQ

[TexasAviator]

Canton Moroso clearance for a stroker stroked 347 302. Checked crankshaft end play as well as other clearances.

https://youtu.be/7ncYPAotbuE

[TexasAviator]

The block on the engine stand. Wasnt too bad I just picked it up and slid it onto the stand. Ima feeling that one ! The block and rotating assembly had to weigh at least 200lbs. 305lb Deadlift workouts saved the day on this one.

Here is the model number etched on the crank facing the water pump.

Clearance for the Moroso Canton girdle was perfect.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161117_212713_zpstg8h2hzh.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161117_212713_zpstg8h2hzh.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161117_204144_Burst02_zpszkefv4yg_edit_147949480 8226_zpsg5xrmrtg.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161117_204144_Burst02_zpszkefv4yg_edit_147949480 8226_zpsg5xrmrtg.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161117_213547_zpsedxrlxa8.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161117_213547_zpsedxrlxa8.jpg.html)

[carlewms]

Great detailed videos ... I have a 347 but had it built for me; I have never done an engine build so your videos are very helpful.

[TexasAviator]

Thank you. I think a builders closest ally is a persnickety personality.

[TexasAviator]

Clearance for main girdle to oil pump part 1.

https://youtu.be/EsGknwpytoI

[TexasAviator]

Part 2 install afted clearance oil pump for the girdle.

https://youtu.be/fJivsCZ6aIE

[TexasAviator]

Oil pump and tube modification for a girdle.

https://youtu.be/8b4FCaqn7m0

[TexasAviator]

Lifters dowel pins and head gasket install. The head gasket is .039 felpro. The dowel pins are from a 1994 ford bronco but new from felpro. Oreilleys could not find a part number for me so i told them to check the trucks. They then had them in stock.

https://youtu.be/Nt5t0N5EqTw

[TexasAviator]

Installed my 11r heads and measured for lifters. Came out to 7.185 so i am going to buy 7.200 chromoly rods.

https://youtu.be/YZHdl7LxKI8

[TexasAviator]

Measuring for pushrods setting up my heads and some other build specs. Checking piston to valve clearances.


https://youtu.be/X1lpkWhe3cg

[TexasAviator]

New chromed timing marker indicator. Bet you never seen one of these off the shelf.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161208_170300_zpsvusgzgtj.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161208_170300_zpsvusgzgtj.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

I see that LMR, AM, And, other sites are charging crazy prices on these bolt kits. If you have deleted the steering pump and the ac. These bolts look nice on the front of your molded engine. They are socket head bolts and cost 5 dollars!

https://youtu.be/aNwvVJSeimg


Even after assuring myself with a camera and a bunch of clearance checking, I went ahead and clay or play dough the ptv aka piston to valve clearance.

Tons of room in these racetec pistons.

https://youtu.be/OK_E5Fp_rrg

[TexasAviator]

At your alls suggestion, I painted the timing cover and clear coated all the other aluminum parts to keep them from corrosion. Also started to port my intake to match the heads.

https://youtu.be/iQS7xRhi6qw

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161213_174801_zpsdq3p06a6.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161213_174801_zpsdq3p06a6.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161213_174517_zpskwwpniws.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161213_174517_zpskwwpniws.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20161213_174713_zpspd4yehhn.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20161213_174713_zpspd4yehhn.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_200338_019_zpszfwy4skb.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_200338_019_zpszfwy4skb.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_200750_591_zpsncev9blq.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_200750_591_zpsncev9blq.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_200219_659_zpsbdmekzvn.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_200219_659_zpsbdmekzvn.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_195759_104_zpsy6ao9qym.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170401_195759_104_zpsy6ao9qym.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

The Tremec design T-5 5 speed transmission has been around since the early 80's. "World Class" models were introduced in 1985. These transmissions feature tapered roller bearings on the cluster, caged needle bearings under the 1st, 2nd and 3rd speed gears on the mainshaft, double synchronizers on 1st and 2nd and steel blocker rings with bonded friction materials. Ford adopted this configuration for 1985 and up production T5's. Similarly, all Ford aftermarket T-5 applications have been "World Class" since 1985. As the demands on this transmission were increased, gear materials were upgraded (8620 to 4620 to4615) and blocker ring lining materials went from paper to carbon fibre.

In 1993 the pocket bearing between the input and mainshaft was changed from a needle bearing to a tapered roller bearing. This was only used in production on the '93-95 Mustang Cobra T5's but was adopted on many high performance aftermarket T-5 applications including the m-7003-z. The T-5 design and manufacturing rights were purchased by Tremec in 1996 and is still being produced in Mexico.

This is the initial build of a my custom 7003-z spec trans from a repurposed WC case, hardened alloy gears, pocket bearing 2.95 input (not needle bearings) from a new distributor based out of Texas, a 070 spec chromoly gear cluster, a unique uncommon 2000 mustang rear case with electronic speedo, and a billet gear pack retainer. Should be plenty of fun at half the price of a frpp 7003-z trans and plenty for my street 450hp 347.


Here is my coveted T5 1993 Cobra mustang input shaft (aka m-7003-Z). This piece is going for hundreds of dollars for used parts but with the new SAE 8620 alloy you can have this kit built for much cheaper as we are experimenting with the Frankenstein. I came across them online.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/imagejpeg_0_zpslhqpcu1q.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/imagejpeg_0_zpslhqpcu1q.jpg.html)

The differences between the two bearings inside the cup are apparent here. The difference between a needle bearing world class setup (top) and the obvious race and bearing surface in my new input shaft cup (bottom). The input shaft rides directly against the gear output shaft and is either riding on the weaker needle bearings as seen in the T5 WC or they are riding on the tapered bearing and race as seen in the stronger t5 cobra aka t5z input shaft.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170403_200714_zpssc6gpgkl.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170403_200714_zpssc6gpgkl.jpg.html)

The shaft on the right has a smaller surface area on the front side of the output shaft, and the weaker WC is on the left.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_0012_zpsxfoqvrav.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_0012_zpsxfoqvrav.jpg.html)

Here you can see the installed bearing on the t5z shaft and how it sits in the above input shaft. This is the stronger bearing that Ford even quotes as having 330 lb ft capability compared to the WC has 265 and 300 respectively depending on the gear count.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/imagejpeg_11_zpsyblfuw2d.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/imagejpeg_11_zpsyblfuw2d.jpg.html)


Billet cluster support plate. The rebuild kit comes with a thin sloppy metal retainer. This replaces that weak part.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/imagejpeg_023_zpsyqa86izq.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/imagejpeg_023_zpsyqa86izq.jpg.html)

Newer smooth t5 cover got rid of NSS hole and cleans up the overall look of the t5z+ frankenstein trans.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_0025_zpslfm1kac6.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_0025_zpslfm1kac6.jpg.html)

Then inside the cover i replaced the finger selector with a stronger 1 piece design.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_0024_zpstnsebgnt.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_0024_zpstnsebgnt.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

This is the billet gear retainer that is similar to a T5Z and replaces the flimsy rebuild kit parts.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_0049_zps5epq7yec.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_0049_zps5epq7yec.jpg.html)

Gears installed.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_0053_zpsdmxlpmcs.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_0053_zpsdmxlpmcs.jpg.html)

Here you can see the shafts forward pocket bearing that is similar to the T5Z and Cobra setups.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_0054_zpsu8epzdsv.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_0054_zpsu8epzdsv.jpg.html)

Cluster gears 1352077070R built in 2016 by motive gear. Nothing like fresh parts.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_0050_zpsxkmngyde.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_0050_zpsxkmngyde.jpg.html)

The parts are out there but you have to assemble the right combo to get the 2.95 gears since they did not come in the any year cobra due to emissions. All transmissions, even the Cobra 93-95 were 3.35 gears. The only 2.95 is aftermarket kits. This is the gear set for all these good parts to come together and make this set a true performer.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/513106512_zpsvpnhzixy.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/513106512_zpsvpnhzixy.jpg.html)

This is the rear section above the output shaft and shows the difference in the 1999+ rear tail section allowing us to run a true electronic speedometer.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/513110784_zps8bejkt4d.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/513110784_zps8bejkt4d.jpg.html)

Here is the rear syncro, brake, and electronic speedometer tone ring (above the fork). This allows a WC transmission to be upgraded to a t5z out back. It now has a brake to stop the annoying reverse grind and brings everything up to T5Z spec. All the best parts and upgrades you can do to the T5 WC (World Class).

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/513109688_zpsiomc3s6h.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/513109688_zpsiomc3s6h.jpg.html)

[rx7922]

thats a beautiful looking motor!

[speedfreak1211]

What options did you order on ur kit?

[TexasAviator]

thats a beautiful looking motor!

Thanks, I may still powdercoat the valve covers and some stuff black crinkle.


What options did you order on ur kit?

0MK IV BASE KIT............................................... ........12990.00
0POWDER COATING ROADSTER CHASSIS........................$399.00
0302-351 ENGINE/TRANS MOUNTS................................$0.00
0BODY CUT-OUTS.............................................. ........$149.00
0BOX 9A BLACK VINYL SEATS.......................................$0.00
0FRONT LOWER ARMS - STANDARD WIDTH.....................$450.00
0GAUGE CONVERSION KIT............................................$0. 00
03 LINK REAR SUSPENSION WITH COIL-OVERS A...............$1399.00
LEATHER STEERING WHEEL............................................. $30.00
CHROME ROLL BAR............................................... ..........$299.00
FFR MUG............................................... .........................
FFR METAL SIGN.............................................. ...............

TOTAL............................................. ...............................$15387.00

I pretty much have everything ready to go onto the car already purchased. Still deciding on wheels and paint.

[TexasAviator]

Finished the transmission build. Possibly the only t5z with electronic Speedo?

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/513128384_zpspclabnoj.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/513128384_zpspclabnoj.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

I should be getting my car at the end of this month. Is there any steps or things I should buy before I take the body off the frame for the first time. Outside of a body buck and things in the manual. What else should I be looking for?

[GoDadGo]

Chassis Lifting System:
If you can pick up a scissor style or quick jack set up it would be great.
The Danmar Max Jack would even be better.
http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/Specialty-Lifts-s/294.htm

Thread Insert Rivet Nut Kit:
Every access panel, dash, stereo consol and the top of the transmission tunnel are removable on my car and all use the same #10 Allen Head screws to make things easy to access so consider getting one.
https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivet-nut-tools/kits-tool-kits-for-rivet-nuts-and-blind-rivets

[Straversi]

I have not seen the insides of a transmission since high school auto shop. Thanks for the great write up.
-Steve

[TexasAviator]

Got some things done the last few days. I have been home from deployment for about a week and I have to tell you my little model Cobra and patches that I carried around with me were an inspiration. I have had a horrible deployment but the key is to have healthy distractions while overseas. I would plan all kinds of things and search for parts at the USO and online whenever I could just to get my mind off the mission and the things going on around me. Flying everyday was a stressful endeavor and being bombarded on a weekly sometimes daily basis with rockets was all too much at times. I appreciate the reads and things that go on here so that I had a sense of community and a feeling of being back in the US whenever I could get to my favorite distraction.

https://scontent-dft4-3.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21762215_122942301697610_2776183315029669011_n.jpg ?oh=93e24a703117b89ace3e9d27c4a00674&oe=5A52EA27

[TexasAviator]

Sanded 27 years of gunk and rust off my axle. Wiped it down, shot it semigloss. Setup with 11 inch cobra pbr rear brakes, alloy shafts, 3.73 ford gears, limited slip cobra diff, svo girdle cover. I shot my diff cover because it was looking tired and accented it black. Got in and inspected the work on my used diff. Seals are not leaky, diff fluid was in really good shape. Checked backlash and gear mesh. She is coming together nicely. Buttoned it up and added amsoil severe duty synthetic gear 75w-90.


http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170927_160544_zpsuufd34xo.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170927_160544_zpsuufd34xo.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170927_160606_zpseu5ocvzl.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170927_160606_zpseu5ocvzl.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170927_173108_zpsxsitrppt.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170927_173108_zpsxsitrppt.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170928_120951_zpsjdczxc8e.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170928_120951_zpsjdczxc8e.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170927_173246_zpsprhdnh0b.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170927_173246_zpsprhdnh0b.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170928_135413_zps7j5hwvhr.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170928_135413_zps7j5hwvhr.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170928_120956_zpsowexb4aj.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170928_120956_zpsowexb4aj.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170928_124812_zpscavkj8hv.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170928_124812_zpscavkj8hv.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170928_124804_zps2hwxcdkn.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170928_124804_zps2hwxcdkn.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/20170928_145752_zps1lrkbjs8.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/20170928_145752_zps1lrkbjs8.jpg.html)

[TexasAviator]

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102310_zpsihojujb1.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102310_zpsihojujb1.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102104_zpswl9qdlkg.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102104_zpswl9qdlkg.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102035_zpsinvkq3ad.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102035_zpsinvkq3ad.jpg.html)
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102018_zpskkkvrzdu.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/IMG_20170928_102018_zpskkkvrzdu.jpg.html)

[cgundermann]

Now the fun begins! Your axle looks great...

[cgundermann]

Finished the transmission build. Possibly the only t5z with electronic Speedo?

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/c130aviator/Mustang2replica/513128384_zpspclabnoj.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c130aviator/media/Mustang2replica/513128384_zpspclabnoj.jpg.html)

Really interesting and ingenious how you steroided out your T5. Being an old 5.0 Stang guy, I love the T5. I also have a fueled injection 347 (around 450 horse) and splurged and bought a G-Force completely manufactured (new case & all new internals) T5, which is rated to 600 foot pounds. Don't have your mad skills and the complete G-Force setup isn't cheap.

Your motor is stunning bro!

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Thanks I thought the T5 was a great piece and I would rather repair or fix things then throw them out. So I decided to build it. I wish I had the funds to further buy a GForce or Astro but this was the best alternative. Ford Performance Parts guys said that the T5Z is actually more stout than the 300 ft lb rating, and local guys at my towns drag strip are running stock t5's without destroying them on turbos and other things. The key to my t5z build is also that longer 1st gear, with 2.95 being there I can run out the first gear longer, requiring less shifts through 1 and 2. This also extends life of the blockers (syncro) rings. I also believe the T5z behind a light car and 450 hp motor will hold up fine. I am excited to see how it all comes together and shifts.

Thanks for checking in.
Cant wait to get my heap together and run it down the strip.

[cgundermann]

I never had a T5 fail when it exceeded the 300 pound rating and to your point, on a little light car - you should be golden...

[TexasAviator]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/36929473814_6bca23ca5c_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/36929473814_6a0e0f29a7_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/37381652000_42af576a8a_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/37381652000_2dc18d2116_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/36929471854_104c15abe1_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/36929471854_ca986f80dd_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/36929470954_3a15af6a47_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/36929470954_6867be2b22_h.jpg)

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[TexasAviator]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/37607716722_ed264c52d6_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/37607716722_0343505473_h.jpg)

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/37381644760_a5565c202b_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/37381644760_e5cd614a7e_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37607713962_48feaf0126_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37607713962_42e642bcc1_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/37607713312_4f9b8dbb10_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/37607713312_d7c80d2cc7_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/37607712922_d6246f0cc7_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/37607712922_558fb0ddf6_h.jpg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37607712702_46ff529cb2_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37607712702_3048458d87_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37607712242_ca63208f23_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37607712242_d0d8f05d2f_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/36969056853_0290a04f52_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/36969056853_a389dcec79_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/36969056383_bae48d726c_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/36969056383_716f2f81b2_h.jpg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/36969055573_e2caa05c7c_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/36969055573_cad4dd1d76_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/36969054973_6d7db0d2c0_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/36969054973_adf3bd578f_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/36969054503_99766f8f48_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/36969054503_56eb36d8e9_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/36969053663_a7f964bb7f_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/36969053663_daed57a398_h.jpg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/37591037666_7895d008ae_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/37591037666_6274bcf1ca_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/36969052763_d32aff4e01_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/36969052763_35d40ef4af_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/36969051883_1d83369932_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/36969051883_6901feffef_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/36969051443_66f38b6e84_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/36969051443_d09685f7ee_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/23786950658_54b298a6ef_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/23786950658_57ff9bfef7_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/23786949668_334ac7a34c_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/23786949668_8a87ec97c2_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/36969049273_8dbaec66ae_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/36969049273_b9b23ca2cc_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/36969048963_6bccf69cc6_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/36969048963_72a5764f33_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

Here is a little break down of my factory five MK4 unboxing.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/WACW_ayt9X4

https://youtu.be/gXmihjqyfRI

[TexasAviator]

Made my first mistake tonight. Started to assemble the rear axle into the car and didnt install the brackets right. Took the whole night to fix it. Then one of the bolts that holds the collar on the 3 link is jammed and will not budge. Its one of the four bolts that hold the 3rd link arm above the axle and is attached to the diff. That thing is snug and the bolt is jammed.

[TexasAviator]

Assembled my Coilovers. Factor Five Racing Koni Coilover Assembled.

https://youtu.be/OpcXubr0ACQ

[TexasAviator]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/23849225678_b32fe89051_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CktvUb)20171014_123037 (https://flic.kr/p/CktvUb) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/37653701816_cf263c618f_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Znk4Hs)20171014_123020 (https://flic.kr/p/Znk4Hs) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[cgundermann]

Made my first mistake tonight. Started to assemble the rear axle into the car and didnt install the brackets right. Took the whole night to fix it. Then one of the bolts that holds the collar on the 3 link is jammed and will not budge. Its one of the four bolts that hold the 3rd link arm above the axle and is attached to the diff. That thing is snug and the bolt is jammed.

Did you get her loose? If you haven't already - loosen and remove the other three bolts. As it cinched/clamped down, the angles might have been off a bit and stretched/bent the bolt...

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Thanks for the input. I got it loose with an impact wrench. I have air tools and didnt use them til yesterday. I got everything installed yesterday and the rear axle is in! I will try to get pictures and updates soon.

[cgundermann]

Thanks for the input. I got it loose with an impact wrench. I have air tools and didnt use them til yesterday. I got everything installed yesterday and the rear axle is in! I will try to get pictures and updates soon.

Right on!

[TexasAviator]

Installed the rear axle and beautifully designed 3 link rear suspension with coilovers.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/37484780700_a41e3514c4_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/37484780700_7f4c3db9a2_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/37742872941_57a5e4b942_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/37742872941_5804c16036_h.jpg)

INSTALL VIDEO

https://youtu.be/zHZ7zCDX5t8

[cgundermann]

Looking good; love those new FFR lower control arms!

[TexasAviator]

CGundermann, I just read something about your cars trunk mods. Great job. I just wanted to say that you have inspired me to do something with my trunk. I think I am going to cut it up and lower the floor.

[TexasAviator]

Got the gas tank and other stuff installed.
The gas tank is a rust free 1990 piece. I took all the rubber grommets out and inspected them. They are a bit worn but otherwise in great shape. I also tested the float and got a good range of 25-165 ohms. Its very sensitive so it jumped around a bit but I feel its very accurate for something made 27 years ago. I shot it with silver paint. Cleaned all the contacts on my Walbro 255 LPH pump and the gauge harness. Cleaned it with electronic spray cleaner and inspected the interior of the tank. Its clean as new. The plastic sheathing that goes on the bottom of the tank got armor all plastic treatment and the straps got painted black to give it a clean install. Save me hundreds of dollars just cleaning and reusing donor parts in this area. The walbro and aftermarket parts here came from my 12000 dollar pristine parts car.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37484773890_d97c720076_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37484773890_742982b48c_h.jpg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4475/37711023262_3e7575d2c6_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4475/37711023262_1471ed8ffd_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/37711024942_9cc5803a2b_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/37711024942_771fa0a266_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

Windshield came in yesterday fellas.

I unpacked it and set it safely in the garage tucked away in a corner. I wake up before work and go stare at my car everyday. I contemplate all the things I can do and not afford to do for that day and take it one day at a time. I have a huge list on FFR website shopping cart and with wheels and all the tid bits I am up to 8000 bucks to buy things for the car.

I have a short list here. Many of the parts I plan to order in the near future. The more expensive stuff like the top, and wheels/tires will be toward the end of my build.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/wishlist.php?publicwishlist=6f3fc850e4721804f91876 411269da67

The list outside of FFR shopping is as follows and could replace somethings in the above shopping cart.

Locally sourced driveshaft
starter (mini high torque 11:1 compression)
brakes turned and sandblasted
knuckles sandblasted
trans housing sandblasted
gauges
boot for my flaming river rack, one of them tore
26 spline steering shaft adapter for rack
coolant intake elbow chrome and thermostat
brake booster frame repair, had to cut it
shorty or long tube headers, stainless or ceramic
wiring harness, possible a 21 circuit painless or generic ( i am great with electronics and electrical)

[Yama-Bro]

I have a backordered shipment arriving today from FFR. I'll bet it's also a windshield. I wouldn't have minded if they held that at the factory until I'm ready for it. Less chances to get broke. LOL

For your wish list: Make sure you watch the sale section on this forum. I've noticed a lot of parts come thru at good prices. If you aren't in a hurry you could save a lot of money buying from guys that change their minds. I kind of wish I would have done some of the parts that way as opposed to getting it all at once. I saw there are some 15" rims with tires listed right now for a little more than what the tires cost. Another way you could save some bucks is go to a FFR racing open house when they have their garage sale. They sell a lot of scratch and dent stuff / gently used parts at a deep discount. One of my friends was at the last open house and picked me up a set of 17" rims with tires for $300 a bunch of other items.

[mach'er]

Mustang forums might be a good source for some of the stuff on your list as well.

I got my Dart SHP big bore block from a guy off Corral.net, brand new in the box, after he changed his mind about using it. Cheap(ish). Between a couple Mustang forums and RacingJunk.com, I've probably found a dozen parts, tools, or shop equipment that have been prized acquisitions, at crazy low prices, for my Roadster project.

I wouldn't be surprised at all if you could find a new/almost new starter at "get it out of my garage" prices.

[TexasAviator]

thanks gents,

I do plan on going the route of getting stuff as it comes up for sale. Its frustrating however to email or pm people with no reply. That is the case at the moment. I am in no hurry and I want the build to be as quality as possible. I have only a few used parts on my car but some of the upgrades came off a highly modified donor car so the parts are in very new shape, such as the 13" brake kit.

[TexasAviator]

Can anyone tell me if this set up looks correct to you.

I have a few boxes of hardware, washers, bolts, etc for spares and needed to use some larger washers to make up for the lack provided with the kit. But everything in the front end got washers. I am going to pull the spindles and knuckles and send them off for powder coat. They are SN95 units that came with the 2300K brake upgrade kit. The bearings are repacked and clean, they have a nice clean coat of surface rust but the machines surfaces are nice and clean. I installed a bump steer kit that can be installed several ways to give hight adjustment to the rack and pinion. What do you all think. Additionally, I have 13" brakes for the front and 11.65 for the rear.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/37112569154_d1211f959e_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/37112569154_7a8c41764e_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/37112569104_93e120a6c0_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/37112569104_9ce54402da_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/37112570464_07057eb42d_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/37112570464_b3d13c094a_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37112570954_a6a6bec9d9_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37112570954_677dcfea5f_h.jpg)

[cgundermann]

CGundermann, I just read something about your cars trunk mods. Great job. I just wanted to say that you have inspired me to do something with my trunk. I think I am going to cut it up and lower the floor.

Thanks, beauty of these cars is you can make it your own...

[cgundermann]

Can anyone tell me if this set up looks correct to you.

I have a few boxes of hardware, washers, bolts, etc for spares and needed to use some larger washers to make up for the lack provided with the kit. But everything in the front end got washers. I am going to pull the spindles and knuckles and send them off for powder coat. They are SN95 units that came with the 2300K brake upgrade kit. The bearings are repacked and clean, they have a nice clean coat of surface rust but the machines surfaces are nice and clean. I installed a bump steer kit that can be installed several ways to give hight adjustment to the rack and pinion. What do you all think. Additionally, I have 13" brakes for the front and 11.65 for the rear.

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Looks good to me, I also used refurbished SN95 hubs. I have an older MK4 and my front coil overs do not have two upper alternate mounting points.

[TexasAviator]

The build book leaves a lot to be desired. The pictures are vauge and old. They dont have the double holes either. The other thing is that bolts are not specified and labled such as in the inventory sheet. If someone where to take a little extra time, go over these fine details and republish the book it would be an amazing document.

[cgundermann]

There is two ways to mount the upper control arms to the chassis (on top vs. the side) - which sometimes gets confusing for builders. Mine called for on top. I also had to trim/sand my bushings to fit the coil overs in the frame brackets.

I like your build because I'm an old 5.0 guy and initially was going to use a donor. Instead, I used almost all new parts with the basic kit. Put every dream piece on mine from my Mustang tinkering days...

[TexasAviator]

cgunder,

I am a 5.0 guy too. I still buy many parts from american muscle, and LMR. They are my favorite parts guys for mustangs. I also used many 5.0 build parts on my car and only bought new where I needed to. This car is going to be a non-donor;donor car. LOL I also ran a drill through the powdercoat on the frame to get the bolts to fit. Some of them I used a 3lb hammer to coerce them into place. Everything is nice and snug and that is important in these cars. I too installed my sn95 uppers to the top as the build book stated.

[TexasAviator]

Bought my rivet gun at walmart for 5 bucks and its suprisingly very good quality. At 5 bucks I can buy another if the heads get used up on the tool. Man I cant believe how well my rivets work with this thing. Finished another part of the build book. Moved on to the driver side brake booster. Bendix booster, Bendix master cylinder. Used small spacers to allow the steering to not contact the booster. I also had to adjust the booster with a hammer on the bottom just to make sure it doesnt hit the steering joint.

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[cgundermann]

cgunder,

I am a 5.0 guy too. I still buy many parts from american muscle, and LMR. They are my favorite parts guys for mustangs. I also used many 5.0 build parts on my car and only bought new where I needed to. This car is going to be a non-donor;donor car. LOL I also ran a drill through the powdercoat on the frame to get the bolts to fit. Some of them I used a 3lb hammer to coorce them into place. Everything is nice and snug and that is important in these cars. I too installed my sn95 uppers to the top as the build book stated.

Amen brother! We stick to what we know & love. Also - thank you for your service! Was a crew chief in the USAF and ended up taking a commission in the USMC. Your doing good and much faster than me...

[TexasAviator]

I was picked up for a commission as well but the boards closed in the air force before I got a chance to get to OTS. I am now working on my Masters of Science in Org Leadership and Development. I figure 5 more years and I can retire at 20 with a graduate degree. I am planning on big things outside the AF. Once I have a little retirement blanket I cam move my family and get a dream job in R&D and engineering. I dont know where I may end up but I dream of a job that lets me tinker for a living.

[first time builder]

Nice build and most of all THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE ! Two things I didn't see mentioned. Limited slip additive to rear gear oil and welding the banana bracket to the rear. I also weld the tubes to the main section of the housing. They have been known to come loose.

Kenny

[cgundermann]

I was picked up for a commission as well but the boards closed in the air force before I got a chance to get to OTS. I am now working on my Masters of Science in Org Leadership and Development. I figure 5 more years and I can retire at 20 with a graduate degree. I am planning on big things outside the AF. Once I have a little retirement blanket I cam move my family and get a dream job in R&D and engineering. I dont know where I may end up but I dream of a job that lets me tinker for a living.

Very, very cool!

[TexasAviator]

Nice build and most of all THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE ! Two things I didn't see mentioned. Limited slip additive to rear gear oil and welding the banana bracket to the rear. I also weld the tubes to the main section of the housing. They have been known to come loose.

Kenny

Thank you for the inputs. I welded axle housings to the tubes when I built jeeps and on my Bronco but that was for offroad use. I don't feel its necessary here and I used the provided hardware on the 3 link banana and feel it will be plenty for a street car.

I did not use additive in the rear axle because I used a synthetic gear oil. If it chatters I will throw in 4 oz. If not then no worries.

[TexasAviator]

Last weekend I didnt get a chance to post but I finished the passenger footbox and started to put finishing touches on the power brakes, fox pedal box and some other things to get ready for buttoning up the DS footbox.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/37133056454_4b240cbabe_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/37133056454_e5c4652db1_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37811387912_0c7a88d6e7_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37811387912_5cd22cee51_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/37133056404_a8a15fb0d9_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/37133056404_d7082337db_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

Made some modifications to the pedal assembly on the clutch. I added a rubber bumper from a vacuum cap that you find from the parts store. I then found some hardware from a garage door repair I did and it had spacers and perfect sized set screws on the spacers to allow for adjustment and centering of the clutch cable and quadrant. Then I also used a new firewall adjuster to make sure I had more adjustability in the future. Quadrant and firewall adjuster is from maximum motorsports.

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[TexasAviator]

Lastly I put some 50 rivets and sealed the floors with non-silicon adhesive calking. It dries clear and is now my favorite product to use. Its polyseamseal.com and its great for use on metals so it doesnt hold moisture and acts as an adhesive as well as a sealer. Making some good progress on my weekends. Look at them clean lines and rivets.

:)

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[Yama-Bro]

Making a lot of progress. Looking good!

[TexasAviator]

Your car seems to becoming along as well, Yama. Thanks for checking in.

[TexasAviator]

I have a backordered shipment arriving today from FFR. I'll bet it's also a windshield. I wouldn't have minded if they held that at the factory until I'm ready for it. Less chances to get broke. LOL

For your wish list: Make sure you watch the sale section on this forum. I've noticed a lot of parts come thru at good prices. If you aren't in a hurry you could save a lot of money buying from guys that change their minds. I kind of wish I would have done some of the parts that way as opposed to getting it all at once. I saw there are some 15" rims with tires listed right now for a little more than what the tires cost. Another way you could save some bucks is go to a FFR racing open house when they have their garage sale. They sell a lot of scratch and dent stuff / gently used parts at a deep discount. One of my friends was at the last open house and picked me up a set of 17" rims with tires for $300 a bunch of other items.

I picked up a set of BBK FFR Ceramic Coated 4 into 4 headers. I got them for 200 bucks from the for sale section. Appreciate the great deal on these because I was going to run shorty headers. I now have the ability to make my engine really breathe with these topping off the engine build.

I noticed they dont seem as big as everyone has stated. I though they would be closer to 1 7/8 inch header but they came up pretty short in that respect. The flange came out to just under 1 1/2" primaries, and the exhaust flange is at about 1 1/4 inches. The OD is 1 5/8" header primaries. Just figured they would be a bit bigger. I know they will still flow much better than the J pipes but kind of suprised they werent bigger for the 699 price tag on these things.




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[stack]

Last weekend I didnt get a chance to post but I finished the passenger footbox and started to put finishing touches on the power brakes, fox pedal box and some other things to get ready for buttoning up the DS footbox.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/37133056454_4b240cbabe_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/37133056454_e5c4652db1_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37811387912_0c7a88d6e7_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37811387912_5cd22cee51_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/37133056404_a8a15fb0d9_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/37133056404_d7082337db_h.jpg)

Tech Tip: Do not close up the driver side foot box until almost last. Be sure to go kart and test all the wiring as it is easier to access with the outside and top panels off. You may find you want to adjust the clutch or brake pedals. Also be sure that the throttle pedal gets you full throttle on the fitech.

stack

[TexasAviator]

Tech Tip: Do not close up the driver side foot box until almost last. Be sure to go kart and test all the wiring as it is easier to access with the outside and top panels off. You may find you want to adjust the clutch or brake pedals. Also be sure that the throttle pedal gets you full throttle on the fitech.

stack

Thanks Stack,

I will definately take your advice on that one. I was in the box today and completely disassembled it to install some more parts that came in. I think I am going to pull the parts and paint them to give them all a freshening before final assembly. I found today that the stock mustang pedal is piece of garbage and I will be buying either the FFR pedal or the Russ Thompson pedal. The stocker just cant be saved or made to feel solid and safe. As well as where I want it on the foot box.

Brandon

[TexasAviator]

LMR sent me a bunch of Ford Motorsports parts today. Literally showed up just a day after I ordered them. They are about 4 hours away from me.

I picked up a thermostat, filter, chrome dipstick, flywheel bolts, assorted bolts, brake switch, brake switch wiring harness, and distributor hold down all from Ford or Motorcraft. The other parts are from LMR, such as the mini high torque starter, thermostat housing, and pedals. All told only 285 bucks spent and will have mostly everything I need to assemble the engine, transmission, and turn it over to check cylinder pressures.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/24274687548_f2c4cb05d5_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/24274687548_d834fbdb08_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/38095175822_5ae67062e6_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/38095175822_32f97d2cf7_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/38126797511_edffcc570f_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/38126797511_bdc9793f73_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/38126806331_99099ba5cc_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/38126806331_d216be2e7f_h.jpg)

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[TexasAviator]

The chrome dipstick has Ford Motorsport embossed in it. Pretty cool.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/26350154469_8e1776c970_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/26350154469_472d9135be_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

Didnt have a lot of time this weekend to work on the MK4. I found myself shopping and getting somethings done around the house. My daughter wanted a queen bed and she has been sleeping in her room on her small bed for some time. So I rewarded her with the queen and we also use that bedroom for guests so the queen made since in her room.

The few things I did get done today are as follows. I fit the headers to the engine and checked clearance for the dipstick. The Ford Motorsports dipstick had to have a bit of the edge shaved off where it goes into the block so that it would fit properly. Between the blue engine enamel and the chrome it probably added a few hundredths to the dip stick hole and didn't allow it to fit. So I just hit it a few times with the angle grinder and a flap wheel. I then mounted it up as it would sit in the block and checked clearances. It seems to fit great even with my girdle inside the oil pan. Very glad I didn't have to pull the pan for that.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/38120692786_07619dfe0c_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/38120692786_5df3f67312_h.jpg)


Got a little more of the rivets installed, so I am making good progress there. I plan to go back and clean all the aluminum and remove the wording on ever surface as well as primer and paint them before final assembly.

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I used sheet metal screws and fit the rest of the interior panels. The tunnel wont get riveted until the engine/trans install and probably after the go cart phase, but its going to gether and the edges are pretty tight. I also JL audio C2 front and rear speakers for the car. Not sure how effective they will be but I want to go ahead and mock up the install.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/38144999922_e289c136a7_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/38144999922_6dd0aa6c61_h.jpg)

[cgundermann]

Thanks Stack,

I will definately take your advice on that one. I was in the box today and completely disassembled it to install some more parts that came in. I think I am going to pull the parts and paint them to give them all a freshening before final assembly. I found today that the stock mustang pedal is piece of garbage and I will be buying either the FFR pedal or the Russ Thompson pedal. The stocker just cant be saved or made to feel solid and safe. As well as where I want it on the foot box.

Brandon

I really like Russ Thompson's gas pedal. Works well enough with the stock throttle cable; just make sure you fab a full throttle stop. Easy enough - there is a hole in the framework which you can place an adjustable bolt and rubber stop...

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Thanks for the tip CG. I read that in another thread. I need to get a few things from Russ and I may have to buy quite a few parts from him.

[Yama-Bro]

Looking good. You are making good progress.

[TexasAviator]

Yama, I was going to dyno the engine but I am itching to assemble it and the trans and just get it into the car. Hoping to have all that done this month.

[Yama-Bro]

Yeah, It's pretty easy to decide not to do a step so that you can get just a little farther. I know I've skipped a couple minor things.

[TexasAviator]

Yeah, It's pretty easy to decide not to do a step so that you can get just a little farther. I know I've skipped a couple minor things.

I feel like since this is a budget build, the money spent on the gas for the truck, the dyno, getting the stuff setup, etc would be better spent on the car itself. I am going to pass on the dyno for now and get the car on a local chassis dyno later.

[TexasAviator]

I pulled my oil pan, did a second check on my oiling setup after a thread on here got me thinking. I built my engine a year ago and its been on the stand because of a deployment and the ensuing time it takes to be full time military, dad, etc. Anyway, it got me thinking about clearances, oil pickup and the pan.

Here are my findings. The pan is stock but aftermarket from americanmuscle.com the pickup is about 1.5-2 inches from the bottom of the pan or about a quart of oil to get it to the tube. That leaves about 4 above the tube, in the block and additional quart in the filter. I can get six quarts and the oil will stay in the rear of the sump of the pan under acceleration. The only person to state they had an issue was running a front sump, which would dry the front sump pan under acceleration and cornering. I have a hard time seeing the need for the larger pan for a mainly cruise, driver type car. I am very satisfied and happy with all clearances, sealing and the pan being above the frame rails. Its hard for me to not like this setup. It looks so stealthy. A 289-302 looking block with 475hp on tap.

Here is the engine upsidedown with the pan off to the background of the picture, you can see where the oil pickup and sump will sit. Very nice little pickup location and its stock except for me bending it with a rubber hammer in a few different places to get it flush and to line it up with the arp main cap bolts for a secure pickup tube/girdle combo.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/24384534258_5de936410c_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/24384534258_81e486ae65_h.jpg) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/38201018726_083f14315a_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/38201018726_03d9fa7082_h.jpg)

[mike223]

I pulled my oil pan, did a second check on my oiling setup after a thread on here got me thinking.

Perfect - glad we (all) got to talking about it.



the pickup is about 1.5-2 inches from the bottom of the pan or about a quart of oil to get it to the tube.

I can't speak to that pan specifically, but I think that is "WAY" too high (big time).


Melling says 3/8" to 1/2" here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_ZDWjPvDiA

Canton says 5/16" to 3/8" here (SBF specific, but they use a different design of pickup):https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/TechPages/Oil_Pan_Accessories_Tech.html

I say 1/4" to 5/16"" (with more of a Canton design pickup) illustrated here:https://www.cjponyparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/200x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/o/p/opp13.jpg



The only person to state they had an issue was running a front sump, which would dry the front sump pan under acceleration and cornering.

I had trouble autocrossing a rear sump pan - the trouble shows up on the gauge with pressure dropping below 20 psi in corners / heavy braking (on video). Sticky tires / experienced autocrosser.

The first place it shows up on bearings / journals is rod bearings for cylinders 4+8 (last place on crank to oil). If the rod journal / bearings for 4 + 8 are good, everything else is "probably" ok (or caused by a different problem).




I have a hard time seeing the need for the larger pan for a mainly cruise, driver type car.

I agree - but knowing what your limitations are and what (exactly) to watch for can be very helpful.

At least it gives you more details to consider while you're thinking about it

[TexasAviator]

Thank you for the informative writeup on oil pans. I may have to take another look at this. Do you have recommendations for a pan and pickup combo for a reasonable cost?

[mike223]

I think in the short term - you'll be fine if you modify your pickup (or buy a pickup) that gets you down to 3/8" - 7/16" off the bottom of the pan.

So long as you bear in mind you can't thrash it around like a race car in that condition - you know what to watch for.


Reasonable cost recommendations (for later)...

What's it cost to fix rod journals / Clevite bearings / etc?


I have the Kevko RR pan and pickup listed here: https://kevkoracing.com/collections/ford-302-351w/products/part-f501-rr-ford-rear-sump-road-race-pan-302-engine

I'll bet it's very similar to the Canton RR pan here (except the Kevko is 7.5" deep and rear sump, barely stays above my frame rails, maybe 1/4" - Mk4 351w): https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=15-680

Breeze has this one that uses the stock pickup (which one???), but I'm not a fan of the "hump" pans, and it doesn't appear to have RR baffles (but some baffles are probably better than "none"): http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=892



Additionally, now I also run an Accusump (probably don't bother unless you plumb it "right" - $): https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=24-006

[bobl]

If you are up for a short drive, I have a dyno at my house and would be happy to dyno test it for you as a thank you for your service. I live about 40 miles west of Austin.

Bob


I feel like since this is a budget build, the money spent on the gas for the truck, the dyno, getting the stuff setup, etc would be better spent on the car itself. I am going to pass on the dyno for now and get the car on a local chassis dyno later.

[TexasAviator]

If you are up for a short drive, I have a dyno at my house and would be happy to dyno test it for you as a thank you for your service. I live about 40 miles west of Austin.

Bob

:eek:oh my word yes. Thank you. Pm me. I'm about 4 hrs northwest of austin.

[Yama-Bro]

the pickup is about 1.5-2 inches from the bottom of the pan or about a quart of oil to get it to the tube.

I'll chime in here and agree with the others. This is to far from the bottom of the pan. I've designed a few pickup tubes here at work and our rule is .25" to .38". All of the ones I've done are for Chevys (BBC, SBC and LS), but I wouldn't think Fords would be any different.

[bobl]

Sent you PM. I've got some 4-4 collectors I've been modifying that I should be able to make work on the dyno with your headers. Just have to figure out an efi fuel pump setup to work with your FITech, since your pump is in the tank. Oh I just remembered I have an engine sitting here that I can borrow the pump from. So, come on down!

Bob

[Big Blocker]

Just getting into this thread about your build and I'm liking what I've read so far.

One thing that caught my eye was way back at post #62. From the pictures originally posted, it looks like your upper control arms are mounted up-side-down (in relation to the upper cross shaft pivots) AND all the bolts are installed from the bottom. In the [rare] event that a lock nut would ever come loose, in this instance, the bolt would drop out of its respective hole, causing the upper arm to come apart . . . read: NOT GOOD!
My suggestion is to re-install all the upper arm bolts from the top with the NyLok on the bottom. Call me anal but it's a simple fix for something that may never be an issue . . . but lets me sleep at night, and at any speed above 20 mph.

I thank you for your service . . .

Doc

[cgundermann]

:eek:oh my word yes. Thank you. Pm me. I'm about 4 hrs northwest of austin.

Way cool!

[TexasAviator]

I think in the short term - you'll be fine if you modify your pickup (or buy a pickup) that gets you down to 3/8" - 7/16" off the bottom of the pan.

So long as you bear in mind you can't thrash it around like a race car in that condition - you know what to watch for.


Reasonable cost recommendations (for later)...

What's it cost to fix rod journals / Clevite bearings / etc?


I have the Kevko RR pan and pickup listed here: https://kevkoracing.com/collections/ford-302-351w/products/part-f501-rr-ford-rear-sump-road-race-pan-302-engine

I'll bet it's very similar to the Canton RR pan here (except the Kevko is 7.5" deep and rear sump, barely stays above my frame rails, maybe 1/4" - Mk4 351w): https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=15-680

Breeze has this one that uses the stock pickup (which one???), but I'm not a fan of the "hump" pans, and it doesn't appear to have RR baffles (but some baffles are probably better than "none"): http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=892



Additionally, now I also run an Accusump (probably don't bother unless you plumb it "right" - $): https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=24-006

I think you rr pan is the best setup for the price that I have found. I did some research and there are many options but the kevko stuff seems to have it all and is at a great price. Did it come with the pickup or do I have to add that to the cost?



I'll chime in here and agree with the others. This is to far from the bottom of the pan. I've designed a few pickup tubes here at work and our rule is .25" to .38". All of the ones I've done are for Chevys (BBC, SBC and LS), but I wouldn't think Fords would be any different.

Yeah I agree I dont feel comfortable to really pull corners or enjoy the car if I am worried about the oiling. I will have to get rid of the stock pan to be sure of its capability.


Just getting into this thread about your build and I'm liking what I've read so far.

One thing that caught my eye was way back at post #62. From the pictures originally posted, it looks like your upper control arms are mounted up-side-down (in relation to the upper cross shaft pivots) AND all the bolts are installed from the bottom. In the [rare] event that a lock nut would ever come loose, in this instance, the bolt would drop out of its respective hole, causing the upper arm to come apart . . . read: NOT GOOD!
My suggestion is to re-install all the upper arm bolts from the top with the NyLok on the bottom. Call me anal but it's a simple fix for something that may never be an issue . . . but lets me sleep at night, and at any speed above 20 mph.

I thank you for your service . . .

Doc

Thanks for checking in on the build. I did change the bolts to the top and have since cleaned up the front suspension with paint, proper bolt placement and steering geometry dialed in well enough for go cart phase. I will try and get some updates to that soon on my build thread. Thanks for checking in and I am glad to serve. I love our country in spite of its social misgivings.


Way cool!

I know right.

[mike223]

I think you rr pan is the best setup for the price that I have found. I did some research and there are many options but the kevko stuff seems to have it all and is at a great price. Did it come with the pickup or do I have to add that to the cost?



Ok, step back - take a deep breath.

The rest of my advice:

The engine has not yet been run?

You "ought to" break that engine in "gently" for 500 - 800 miles.

You "ought to" break the operator / driver in "gently" for "a couple of years" - It's a "very unforgiving" piece of equipment.


You shouldn't "need" a RR pan for a while.


Just trying to keep you on budget, and out of trouble...

Much easier to spread out the expense, especially when you're trying to stay on budget.


Yes, the pickup is extra $.

[Big Blocker]

Just went thru a couple of your videos on YouTube, great idea to "document" everything in a video format - sure makes it easy to go back and "see" what you did later if you question yourself (and we all do).
One thing I am concerned about is the oil pump housing to main/girdle bolt clearance. The video looks like you ground off just enough to make the pump housing sit on the bolt but without any pressure pressing on it. That's a god thing but, things get really HOT in a crankcase during operation and expand, sometimes more then we all think it should expand. And since the normal oil temp for a small block FORD should run about 200° - 220° F. then there is going to be expansion at that junction. I [personally] would run a gasket between the block and pump to give you about .020" more clearance at that point of contact. Last thing you want is stress put on the oil pump housing in an engine that has built-in harmonics and vibrations.

Just my 2¢

On another note, oil pump pickup to bottom of oil pan should be held to .250" - .375". Farther away and she'll starve on [hard] corners, lower and she'll starve all the time as the pump tries to suck the pan upward.

The little things you do now will keep the "issues" from cropping up later on. 15 years on the road with my MKII . . .

Just here to help . . .

Doc

[TexasAviator]

Just went thru a couple of your videos on YouTube, great idea to "document" everything in a video format - sure makes it easy to go back and "see" what you did later if you question yourself (and we all do).
One thing I am concerned about is the oil pump housing to main/girdle bolt clearance. The video looks like you ground off just enough to make the pump housing sit on the bolt but without any pressure pressing on it. That's a god thing but, things get really HOT in a crankcase during operation and expand, sometimes more then we all think it should expand. And since the normal oil temp for a small block FORD should run about 200° - 220° F. then there is going to be expansion at that junction. I [personally] would run a gasket between the block and pump to give you about .020" more clearance at that point of contact. Last thing you want is stress put on the oil pump housing in an engine that has built-in harmonics and vibrations.

Just my 2¢

The little things you do now will keep the "issues" from cropping up later on. 15 years on the road with my MKII . . .

Just here to help . . .

Doc

Thanks Doc,

The thing about my vids and posts, and this is probably true for everyone, but I took a little more off that pump later on. Its well clear. I also fixed the things that you had recommended for the suspension as well. I just need to be better at going back and covering the things I have hit once or twice. I hate doing things twice but I will if I don't have complete confidence in that part of the build.

[TexasAviator]

Ok, step back - take a deep breath.
The rest of my advice:
The engine has not yet been run?
You "ought to" break that engine in "gently" for 500 - 800 miles.
You "ought to" break the operator / driver in "gently" for "a couple of years" - It's a "very unforgiving" piece of equipment.
You shouldn't "need" a RR pan for a while.
Just trying to keep you on budget, and out of trouble...
Much easier to spread out the expense, especially when you're trying to stay on budget.
Yes, the pickup is extra $.

Will do mike, thanks for the advice.

[Big Blocker]

Quote: "You "ought to" break the operator / driver in "gently" for "a couple of years" - It's a "very unforgiving" piece of equipment."

Truer words have never been closer to the truth then anything else said about a Cobra . . .

They require a concentrated learning curve. Light weight, excessive power, short wheel base, an extremely stiff chassis and lightning quick steering will only add to the "excitement" if not controlled by that guy hanging on by the steering wheel with white knuckles the first time you mash the pedal to the floor just to see what it will do - problem is, it'll do it faster then you realize and it's all down hill from there.

Take the first few hundred miles with ease and full awareness. NEVER, NEVER say; "Watch this . . ."
These cars will bite you every time you disrespect its potential / capabilities.

Now get er done and get out there and enjoy the ride . . .

Doc

[TexasAviator]

I think in the short term - you'll be fine if you modify your pickup (or buy a pickup) that gets you down to 3/8" - 7/16" off the bottom of the pan.
So long as you bear in mind you can't thrash it around like a race car in that condition - you know what to watch for.



I'll chime in here and agree with the others. This is to far from the bottom of the pan. I've designed a few pickup tubes here at work and our rule is .25" to .38". All of the ones I've done are for Chevys (BBC, SBC and LS), but I wouldn't think Fords would be any different.

Got some smart people here and I heeded your advice. After beating the tube and heating it up as I went along I came out with 5/16 taking into account the pan gasket. When I stick an allen wrench in the oil drain and adjust for some thickness of the pan and the threaded insert I come up with a little more but its hard to tell with it being off to the side. I have to say I am very happy with it now and will feel at peace knowing its getting oil from as low as I could make the tube and still not restrict flow with the additional bends. Torqued the main cap bolts one last time to 75 ft lbs just for good measure and sealed it back up.

[TexasAviator]

Quote: "You "ought to" break the operator / driver in "gently" for "a couple of years" - It's a "very unforgiving" piece of equipment."

Truer words have never been closer to the truth then anything else said about a Cobra . . .

They require a concentrated learning curve. Light weight, excessive power, short wheel base, an extremely stiff chassis and lightning quick steering will only add to the "excitement" if not controlled by that guy hanging on by the steering wheel with white knuckles the first time you mash the pedal to the floor just to see what it will do - problem is, it'll do it faster then you realize and it's all down hill from there.

Take the first few hundred miles with ease and full awareness. NEVER, NEVER say; "Watch this . . ."
These cars will bite you every time you disrespect its potential / capabilities.

Now get er done and get out there and enjoy the ride . . .

Doc

Appreciate you and Mike very much. I will be careful with the car. I am working with bobl and called him today. He did some software modeling of my engine and parts and was excited to tell me that I should hit my 450hp even with the small cam I am running. The thing is I chose the cam so I can keep the revs around 6000 and be very street friendly. I could probably pick up another 20 or 30 hp but as you all stated this thing is already going to be a handful, might as well detune it a bit and get some vacuum back for my power brakes.

[mike223]

problem is, it'll do it faster then you realize and it's all down hill from there.



Another hard truth - these cars make things happen really, really quick.


I reviewed the build thread briefly - I presume you can rev limit with your EFI setup???

Because you're going to need a rev limiter (stuff happens really quick)...

[Yama-Bro]

Got some smart people here and I heeded your advice. After beating the tube and heating it up as I went along I came out with 5/16 taking into account the pan gasket. When I stick an allen wrench in the oil drain and adjust for some thickness of the pan and the threaded insert I come up with a little more but its hard to tell with it being off to the side. I have to say I am very happy with it now and will feel at peace knowing its getting oil from as low as I could make the tube and still not restrict flow with the additional bends. Torqued the main cap bolts one last time to 75 ft lbs just for good measure and sealed it back up.

It sounds like you are getting it figured out, but for future reference; an easy way to measure the distance from the pickup to the pan floor is to place a piece of clay on the pickup tube then install the pan and squish the clay in the process. Then take the pan off and measure the thickness of the squished clay and you'll have you distance between the pickup tube and the floor of the pan.

[TexasAviator]

That's what I did to get the 5/16 measurement but it was off here and there due to the stamped style of the pan. I used the clay I had on hand from checking the ptv clearances.

[TexasAviator]

Finally got my manifold back from the machine shop and buttoned up the top end. In these two videos.

https://youtu.be/TUdE0do1xJU

https://youtu.be/u_WmnPTnC18

[mike223]

Finally got my manifold back from the machine shop and buttoned up the top end. In these two videos.



Watched the videos.


I really hope you already knew the difference between FelPro 1250 (never ever use) and 1250-S3 (much sturdier steel laminate) gaskets.


From a brief google image search for blown FelPro 1250 gaskets:


76671

76672

76673

76674

76675

[TexasAviator]

Watched the videos.


I really hope you already knew the difference between FelPro 1250 (never ever use) and 1250-S3 (much sturdier steel laminate) gaskets.


From a brief google image search for blown FelPro 1250 gaskets:


76671

76672

76673

76674

76675

I did do a lot of homework on this and in some of those cases they did not remove the restrictions with an exacto knife or use engine sealant to hold the gasket. This can happen for many reasons and I have used these before on intake swaps with no issues on my 5.0 bronco. You need to be very careful when installing gaskets and know that your machining and tolerances are correct to get good, square clamping to the head and intake manifold. A steel gasket will still have a leak if the aforementioned reasons aren't adhered to.

[mike223]

A steel gasket will still have a leak if the aforementioned reasons aren't adhered to.




Agreed - I blew a 1250 after about 3 years - it had been trimmed and sealed and re-torqued.

It was a mixed bag - since the resulting teardown revealed I was going to have to get serious about oil control (RR oil pan, etc).

The online wisdom at that time was that the 1250s get soft and start moving around - a number of people had been having the same sorts of failures.


Another thing I remember reading was that the 1250-S3 gaskets were specified to FelPro by Ford Motorsport.

I can not confirm that, but I can observe that FMS M-9439-A50 intake gaskets (made by FelPro) pretty strongly resemble FelPro 1250-S3, and both are steel laminate construction.


Anyway - I'm glad you'd already researched it, mostly just wanted to get it out there for anyone who hadn't heard or thought about it.

[TexasAviator]

I have to say it's good to think about and keep an eye on. Sure enough, this could be a problem but ask engine builders what they use. I think if you are blowing forced induction or nitrous into a block it would need attention for sure. We don't know the causes of these failures, but I am always willing to revisit these things. I know how to build an engine so it doest bother me to take it apart. If you have the type that buys crate engines, they may find this kind of failure detrimental to their build, that is if they are afraid to work on an engine.

[mike223]

I know how to build an engine so it doest bother me to take it apart. If you have the type that buys crate engines, they may find this kind of failure detrimental to their build




Perfect - we're on the same page.

I actually look for things to learn / observe / do better - on teardown / build / operation.


The first time I put mine together, I could say I did the internals of every piece, except the rear end + transmission.

I have since made it a point to go through the transmission + build the rear end myself (and the engine, again, twice, lol).


Not bought - built.

[TexasAviator]

Exactly Mike, I also don't want to sound haughty or cocky, as I have paid the price in the past but hey you have to pay to play. Good luck to anyone building a motor. It's not for the faint of heart.

[myjones]

It sounds like you are getting it figured out, but for future reference; an easy way to measure the distance from the pickup to the pan floor is to place a piece of clay on the pickup tube then install the pan and squish the clay in the process. Then take the pan off and measure the thickness of the squished clay and you'll have you distance between the pickup tube and the floor of the pan.

The way we do it on the SBC in the dirt car is to grab a handful of different size hex nuts. Start with a 1/2" hex nut laying flat on the pickup and
place the pan and gasket on and it should fail to seat against the pan rail. It should wobble a bit because it's resting on the nut. Drop down one
size at a time on the hex nuts until the pan just starts to lay tight against the gasket and pan rail. Take that nut out and measure for thickness,
subtract a 1/16" for gasket crush and you know the final clearance from the pan. Everyone has a few spare nuts laying around and you don't
have to worry about keeping a batch of clay from drying out before the next use. KISS principal at it's best.
Dale Berry

[TexasAviator]

Great advice myjones

[Yama-Bro]

The way we do it on the SBC in the dirt car is to grab a handful of different size hex nuts. Start with a 1/2" hex nut laying flat on the pickup and
place the pan and gasket on and it should fail to seat against the pan rail. It should wobble a bit because it's resting on the nut. Drop down one
size at a time on the hex nuts until the pan just starts to lay tight against the gasket and pan rail. Take that nut out and measure for thickness,
subtract a 1/16" for gasket crush and you know the final clearance from the pan. Everyone has a few spare nuts laying around and you don't
have to worry about keeping a batch of clay from drying out before the next use. KISS principal at it's best.
Dale Berry

That's another good technique, Dale. I do have to admit though...I was sharing my simple method. I withheld the technical method that I've used every time I've designed a pickup tube to be used with a specific pan...I figured not everyone has one of these sitting around in their garage. LOL.:p
This is our Faro Edge measuring probe that is accurate to .0015".
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/37703991124_a2d34ce8de_b.jpg

[TexasAviator]

Not the prettiest of pictures but I bought some more nickle and dime parts. Added up to another few hundred bucks with the sparkplugs, ford racing wires, ford wire holders, -6 an fittings for the fitech, chrome coolant fitting for on top of the manifold, fitech coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sender sensor, simple grommets for the valve covers, trick flow oil fill tube, and other misc parts.


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[TexasAviator]

Ready to go to the dyno. When I get it back I will take off the ugly coolant tubes, ugly hose clamps and clean up the details on her after break in.

76786

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4572/24553626468_ae394c5bed_h.jpg

[Big Blocker]

In response to your post #122 . . . My wife once said to me, "I sure hope this car isn't going to nickle and dime us to death". My response to her was, "Honey, there isn't anything on this car that costs a nickle or a dime . . . everything starts at $100 and goes up from there."

She still let me build the car and I've kept it now for 15 years . . . I no longer keep a running total of money spent for 5¢ and 10¢ stuff.

Just thought you should know that little tid-bit. LOL !

Doc

[TexasAviator]

Ran Fuel lines, made tight turns, and did it using the stock ffr tubing. Its good tubing and with a little technique and using the recommendations in the build manual, I was able to bed it without kinking with a socket and my hands. I also started to setup the brake booster but found I dont have the right line from the booster to the distributor. It appears to be a larger IF style flare fitting but FFR did not include the line for that. What did you all do to make this work? I know I am oviously going to have to buy a short line for that. I also ran the fuel lines up and cut them with a pipe cutter so I will need to flare those but thats easy. Tell me what you all think. The lines routed pretty nicely along the frame and the bends tucked up under the rear deck nicely. I also got some more riveting done. I have broken 6 drill bits now and I have to keep running out to get more. The weird angles and pressure keeps snapping them like a candy cane.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4554/38489478382_24556463bd_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4554/38489478382_c99ab0c1fe_h.jpg)

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[TexasAviator]

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[TexasAviator]

In response to your post #122 . . . My wife once said to me, "I sure hope this car isn't going to nickle and dime us to death". My response to her was, "Honey, there isn't anything on this car that costs a nickle or a dime . . . everything starts at $100 and goes up from there."

She still let me build the car and I've kept it now for 15 years . . . I no longer keep a running total of money spent for 5¢ and 10¢ stuff.

Just thought you should know that little tid-bit. LOL !

Doc

That is a good point. I have kept every reciept I have spent on the car and will until its on the road. I want to know what I spent in case anyone ever offers me a fair price for it. I dont want to ever sell it but I never know what the future holds so if its a great offer I might part with it. Otherwise I am doing it to have a solid history of the car and I am OCD.

You are right though, even a small fitting I bought for the fuel was 7 bucks. Everytime I spend money I end up going into the hundreds on parts orders.

[TexasAviator]

Ok, I trashed the distributor and installed a block in the front and in the rear just after the bias adjustment knob. This way I can adjust the rear if need be and its out of the way. Hand bent all my brake lines. These rhinohide brake lines from edelmanns are really well made and bend easily. I would really have to work hard to make these things kink. Anyway here are all my lines. I feel they came out pretty neat and well placed. This was acutally a lot of fun.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/37665083845_c2fa87b886_q.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/37665083845_7108f2e0db_h.jpg)

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[cgundermann]

Looks very good; nicely done! I'm with you, I enjoyed doing mine as well...

[TexasAviator]

I am especially proud of this one. My father in law came by for thanksgiving and he could not believe I was building a car. He showed up just as I laid these lines. He was blown away at how parallel and even the curves were. Very good feeling. Bending brake line is so much fun.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/37665085225_f554df0782_h.jpg

[TexasAviator]

Installed the FFR Heater core. It features a 3 stage fan, and the knob is pulled for flow control of the heater bypass valve. Its quite an easy and ingenious way to bring defogging in the car for cool fall and spring mornings as well as heat for a cold day but may warm later while at work. Here is some of the run down on the system.


I used seam seal, since it dries clear, looks great, hides bad seam lines, stays a pliable. Its paintable and its NOT silicon so it wont eat metal. I sealed the outside with seam seal. The inside I used foam quarter inch seals so that it can be removed if need be.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4578/26870260229_e9787baa79.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4578/26870260229_b4ffb5e20d_h.jpg)

I used a hole saw with a pretty large bit to allow for movement of the box and to allow use of the seals the FFR heater and blower come with.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/24773765028_b304554f0e.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/24773765028_5e62d4657d_h.jpg)

Used split loom and routed the wires as well as the switch actuator for controlling the temperature.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4566/37758720615_a72523d8be.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4566/37758720615_f7967bf588_h.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

I cut the holes using a 1.5 inch hole saw bit but if I could do it over I would have used a 1.25 bit. They came out just a bit big but the grommets closed them up well enough that I wasnt all that concerned. Furthermore I made a paper template with an exacto knife, a piece of paper from the kit, and traced the holes from the unit itself, making sure all the holes line up perfectly. I mocked it up each stage of the way and cut the final large hole with the hole saw in 6 locations. I punched out the rest with pliers and snapping off small pieces, then finished it up with a flap wheel on my angle grinder.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/38613728902_6b4f62c79f.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/38613728902_5a3fd0c5a8_h.jpg)

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The last two things I provided that were not in the kit was some seals that you can find a roll of at any hardware store, and I had a handful of perfect sized grommets to give the firewall a finished look after the install was completed. Its easier to install the grommets at the smallest part of the cable rather than trying to do it on the cable itself. Its almost impossible unless you slide it into the firewall while only part of the wire is run through towards the coil end that connects to the valve.


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Here is where I stopped with all hoses ran and the placement of the defoggers mocked up.

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[Ducky2009]

I am especially proud of this one. My father in law came by for thanksgiving and he could not believe I was building a car. He showed up just as I laid these lines. He was blown away at how parallel and even the curves were. Very good feeling. Bending brake line is so much fun.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/37665085225_f554df0782_h.jpg

Good looking brake lines. The master cylinder cap looks pretty high. Are you going to be able to add fluid with the body on?

[TexasAviator]

I am going to have to address that with a remote reservoir. The thing is I cant seem to separate the plastic housing from the MC. Its on there really well. I also dont know how I am going to find fittings for it to run to a remote location high on the firewall.

[TexasAviator]

I started the day off on Friday by packing up the engine and putting it in the truck. It was a 3 hour trip down to Spicewood near Austin and the day was beautiful and perfect for a drive. I stopped for gas but that was it since I really wanted to get this motor to the one of the greatest people I have ever met. Bob Lloyd or bobl on the forums.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/23935916087_89547ebb89_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ct8PWp)20171203_003832 (https://flic.kr/p/Ct8PWp) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

When I arrived he had his cobra sitting there looking all shined up. Bob is a very humble man and doest even have a build thread. Yet he has been building engines for years. He has a very extensive knowledge of all things mechanical and was a real gentleman. His wife was also just like him. Real salt of the earth people. Also did I mention they live in the most beautiful part of Texas. WOW

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4583/37914423495_dd610171a9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnkbP)20171203_003924 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnkbP) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

After some lunch and a swig of water we started cracking on my humble 302. Its punched out to 347 and has some nice parts but they are nothing if I cant get them in tune with the rest of the engine and efi.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/37914425335_eea861027b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnkJx)20171202_193600 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnkJx) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

When I arrived Bob had already started looking at my distributor and found out that it had to be adjusted and made to work with the Fitech EFI. The issue was that its not adjustable in the sense that it has to move the magnetic pickup. We decided we might drill and tap new holes for the magnet, hard mount a screw where the plastic was, or weld and drill a hole to retard the unit 10 degrees. Bob got out his calculator and knew that since we were moving the magnet and pickup and not the cap and rotor, we would have to advance the assembly so that the rotor sees a retard in timing. Its effectively backwards since we are moving a different part than Fitech recommended. In the directions they state that the timing is to be moved counter clockwise with an adjustable phase rotor. We didnt have one so we came up with this to solve the problem and make it more permanent for our application.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4554/27025443709_36a3fecbde_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9sS2)20171201_204959 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9sS2) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/24928002068_a75747d4c5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DYNwx7)20171203_004202 (https://flic.kr/p/DYNwx7) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

As we stabbed the distributor, we marked cylinder 1, put the engine at TDC as best we could and looked at how we modified the distributor to allow us to make it work for the fitech unit.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4520/27025442989_5911440bf2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9sDB)20171201_221321 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9sDB) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

Once the ignition problem was solved, Bob had me look twice at my rockers. I had tightened them way too tight. He had me set them once again to zero lash and a half turn. Its a whole different world when you do the work with someone teaching you. I had done it using youtube videos but I was still wrong. I had to learn from the best.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/37914430415_fb2e11a517_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnnf8)20171201_204830 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnnf8) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

One we had the ignition fixed, the rockers set, it was time to set it up for the dyno.

[TexasAviator]

The engine was put on a dynomite sea and land unit that was built for boats and car engines. Bob has adapted the dyno to allow him to work on Cobra cars as well as his boat business. This is my engine sitting next to the supercharged big blocks he builds. Can you say 1000 horsepower!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/27025441399_1bda944a62_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9sbc)20171202_000642 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9sbc) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

Once on the dyno we pulled several runs to get the engine broke in and warmed up. We got it over 3000 rpm and heard a rocker arm. I had to go in and tighten one more rocker arm because it was overlooked on the attempt to correct earlier problems with my setup. We did a few more pulls but found one more hiccup. We had to fix another mistake of mine with the harmonic balancer vs the timing light. They were not in sync and we had to make new timing marks to find TDC and 0 degrees. Once bob corrected it he made pulls at 28, 30, and 32 degrees of timing at WOT. This is with his exhaust system which is essentially no mufflers. The car made the following power outputs.

Peak
hp/tq
450/460 @ 32 deg
470/440 @ 30 deg
474/439 @ 28 deg

We data logged and saved it at 28 degrees with an afr of 12 at wot. We could not believe it. High fives and laughter all around. We made over the 450 hp mark. I thought at one point it would only be 430 hp based on my fox body experience. I knew the crappy 5.0HO manifolds held people back but WOW.

Next we wanted to run my setup with stock ffr sidepipes. Bob welded in the bung and I got all the exhaust apart off the dyno runs we just made. I couldnt stop smiling. I mean this engine is making 475 hp! I would have never imagined it was possible with just 5900 rpm.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4579/27025438709_35790f277b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9rnP)20171202_172531 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9rnP) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

Once we got the side pipes were installed it was time to see what it would do with how the car would be on the street.

The side pipes went in and we fired the dyno up. Here is a video of that. SELECT HD AND MAXIMIZE YOUR SCREEN TO WATCH THE HP.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymG-6RGR83Y

WATCH THE VIDEO OF THE BEST DYNO RUN OF THE NIGHT!

[TexasAviator]

So here it is folks. Bob Lloyd, with his Texas hospitality and charm helped me see my way to success.

The dyno sheets with the corrections using his Dynomite dyno weather station, correction software, and extremely expensive setup yielded these results.

474.8 horsepower (452 SAE)
438.9 torque (419 SAE)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4515/27025428469_9432305c2c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9okg)20171203_005533 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9okg) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4573/27025429359_3a5493478b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9oAB)20171203_005845 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9oAB) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/38084563314_230611c0d7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/212pkPY)20171203_005916 (https://flic.kr/p/212pkPY) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

So not to be over done but I think myself and Bob both like to be cautious. We cut open the filter, dumped the brand new Amsoil break in oil and checked everything for metal. There was some but its about what I have seen in the past and that Bob has seen in his vast experience. We felt that it was a success and that we had a great motor on our hands. What a great feeling. We were sititng there going over everything we had just done in the past tow days absolutely astounded.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4520/37914426625_eee4c4f926_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnm7M)20171202_183737 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnm7M) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

We once again stripped the engine of its parts. Packed everything back up and moved the engine back into my pickup for the 3 hour ride home.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4576/38770211822_a602161a1b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/224ZteY)20171202_193657 (https://flic.kr/p/224ZteY) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

It has been a long two days and I spent a lot of time mulling over details and I still had many mistakes over the past year. To recap what Bob had me do and the lessons learned, they are as follows:
Fix timing and distributor phasing using a custom welded mount
Relubricate valve train, cylinder walls, all bearing surfaces with an oil pump primer
Readjust all rockers to lash plus half turn
Readjust 1 rocker while on the dyno
Fix timing marks in relation to TDC and 0 degrees
Bob tuned the EFI FItech unit and had general knowledge to get the engine tuned
Bob taught me how to use the fitech
Bob put me up at his house, fed me, and his wonderful wife cooked for me!!!!!
Pinch me is this cobra community for real?

Thank you Bob and his wonderful wife for their hospitality. My faith is completely restored in humanity.

[RickP]

So here it is folks. Bob Lloyd, with his Texas hospitality and charm helped me see my way to success.

The dyno sheets with the corrections using his Dynomite dyno weather station, correction software, and extremely expensive setup yielded these results.

474.8 horsepower (452 SAE)
438.9 torque (419 SAE)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4515/27025428469_9432305c2c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9okg)20171203_005533 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9okg) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4573/27025429359_3a5493478b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9oAB)20171203_005845 (https://flic.kr/p/Hb9oAB) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/38084563314_230611c0d7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/212pkPY)20171203_005916 (https://flic.kr/p/212pkPY) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr



That SB is really producing some great numbers. Nice work on the engine build.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice numbers Brandon---congrats!

Haven't kept up with you for a few days and just looked at some of your latest. Coming along well but as an FYI you need to be aware that the passenger side defrost hose you have shown here will not fit between the heater box and body.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4539/38646284321_cdbd8ffa2b.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4539/38646284321_fcad000ece_h.jpg)

Two options of which I have done both on customer roadsters; (#1) a shallow fiberglass plenum about 3" wide and 1" deep molded to the underside of the cowl and fed in the center by the LH hose (RH outlet of the heater box gets plugged) or (#2) plug the heater box upper RH port, install a dummy grille on that side of the body and only have an active defroster on the driver's side.

Cheers,
Jeff

[cgundermann]

Congratulations - impressive numbers!

Chris

[TexasAviator]

That SB is really producing some great numbers. Nice work on the engine build.

Thanks, I might add that it was with the accessories on there as well as the ffr mufflers. I feel that after the car seats the rings, runs on synthetic, and a bit better gas the engine could be closer to 500hp. Of course its all just numbers and they are meaningless but its fun to gather the data and crunch the numbers.

[Jacob McCrea]

Well done, and thanks for taking the time to post it all here.

[TexasAviator]

Nice numbers Brandon---congrats!

Haven't kept up with you for a few days and just looked at some of your latest. Coming along well but as an FYI you need to be aware that the passenger side defrost hose you have shown here will not fit between the heater box and body.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4539/38646284321_cdbd8ffa2b.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4539/38646284321_fcad000ece_h.jpg)

Two options of which I have done both on customer roadsters; (#1) a shallow fiberglass plenum about 3" wide and 1" deep molded to the underside of the cowl and fed in the center by the LH hose (RH outlet of the heater box gets plugged) or (#2) plug the heater box upper RH port, install a dummy grille on that side of the body and only have an active defroster on the driver's side.

Cheers,
Jeff

I had a couple thoughts of my own I wanted to bounce off someone when I did this a little while back. Wont the tube just crush under the cowl/body. Sure it will squish it against the box but its no different in size since as its squished the dimensions just change to its shape. Also I thought the same about not running it at all to the widow and sending it all to the foot boxes. So many options. I am hit with a delta and a tangent every time I try and install something. LOL

[TexasAviator]

Congratulations - impressive numbers!

Chris

Chris,

You have been one of my faithful followers. I really appreciate your foxbody experience and your build. Its refreshing to have a fellow windsor junkie on here. I love the coyote and if I had the cash... But there is just something so rewarding about the simplicity of the Windsor, the reliability, and the fact it assembles like legos. Even my kids could build this motor. I still cant believe we squeezed 475 out of it. I know its just a number and SAE was what I was really wanting anyway. We even managed to smash my SAE estimate at 452 horsepower. Cant wait to feel it in front of the T5Z+

Brandon

[TexasAviator]

Well done, and thanks for taking the time to post it all here.

Anytime Jacob,

The people really are the best, in this genre of auto enthusiasts.

Brandon

[cgundermann]

Chris,

You have been one of my faithful followers. I really appreciate your foxbody experience and your build. Its refreshing to have a fellow windsor junkie on here. I love the coyote and if I had the cash... But there is just something so rewarding about the simplicity of the Windsor, the reliability, and the fact it assembles like legos. Even my kids could build this motor. I still cant believe we squeezed 475 out of it. I know its just a number and SAE was what I was really wanting anyway. We even managed to smash my SAE estimate at 452 horsepower. Cant wait to feel it in front of the T5Z+

Brandon

Amen brother! I haven't dyno-ed mine, and the loose estimate is north of 450...I'm really curious now what mine will do. To be honest, I was a bit surprised yours was so high...I almost bit and was going to guess when you asked, but, now I'm glad I didn't...I would have offended...lol. Pretty damn good run!

Hot motors are like pretty women, we can all find the beauty in all them - but, we all have our own kryptonite...mine are old school EFI 5.0s (and my lovely bride is a blonde)..

Chris

[Jeff Kleiner]

... Wont the tube just crush under the cowl/body....

It will squiah a bit but the bigger problem is that it will push the cowl upward making the doors fit even worse than usual...kind of the same as what happens when the passenger side end of the dash isn't trimmed. Speaking of the passenger side of the dash ---I'm afraid your placement of the hose and heat vent are going to interfere when you go to tuck the end in behind the hinge.

Jeff

[TexasAviator]

Chris I was guessing 430 and was hoping 450, can't believe it was 475 standard. The correction method is so you can compare to others but even with SAE standards it was over 450hp. All the while having accessories and stock exhaust. I port matched the intake and the 190cc heads sure do wake up the sbf. I can't wait to see how it feels on the street.
I also hadnt mentioned it but a spacer below the fitech creates volume and tunes the intake from the research I have done. I think it picks up 10-15 hp compared to other volumes. Its about matching the tune and pulses of the valve train. Its all in the combo and I did my homework.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/37914429035_1554e03721_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnmQk)20171201_224520 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnmQk) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

Jeff,

I appreciate the insight. I would have figured that one out the hard way. I will be careful to not have anything in the way up there and modify accordingly. I like your idea of using the driver side and ghosting the passenger side.

[cgundermann]

Chris I was guessing 430 and was hoping 450, can't believe it was 475 standard. The correction method is so you can compare to others but even with SAE standards it was over 450hp. All the while having accessories and stock exhaust. I port matched the intake and the 190cc heads sure do wake up the sbf. I can't wait to see how it feels on the street.

Honestly, I was going to swag it at 430 also. You did well! It's nothing like a 450+ Stang, as you've heard so many times - that much poop in a 2300 pound car deserves as much respect as flirting with a UFC fighter's girlfriend; you better have some skills or you going to get hurt bad...

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Honestly, I was going to swag it at 430 also. You did well! It's nothing like a 450+ Stang, as you've heard so many times - that much poop in a 2300 pound car deserves as much respect as flirting with a UFC fighter's girlfriend; you better have some skills or you going to get hurt bad...

Chris

Bobl let me drive his 500hp cobra 347 yesterday. We stopped for gas and at the pump he let me get in the driver seat. He asked me about the clutch, and if I felt comfortable. I pulled out of the gas station, punched it, fish tailed the car, centered it in the lane and by the time i looked down we were doing 70. He looked at me and I smiled. Yeah I know how handle the car.

[cgundermann]

Bobl let me drive his 500hp cobra 347 yesterday. We stopped for gas and at the pump he let me get in the driver seat. He asked me about the clutch, and if I felt comfortable. I pulled out of the gas station, punched it, fish tailed the car, centered it in the lane and by the time i looked down we were doing 70. He looked at me and I smiled. Yeah I know how handle the car.

Too much fun; very very nice of him to let you drive or dare I say - flog it...

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Too much fun; very very nice of him to let you drive or dare I say - flog it...

Chris

yes, when the situation is good you can have some fun. I think we all fear the less than average mustang driver who hits other cars as they come fling out of parking lots. You just never know who you can trust. I was really surprised he let me drive his car. He must either really trust me or really like me. Either way bobl had taught me more in a few days than i have learned on my own in year or so time with the cobra forums and the car itself.

[bobl]

yes, when the situation is good you can have some fun. I think we all fear the less than average mustang driver who hits other cars as they come fling out of parking lots. You just never know who you can trust. I was really surprised he let me drive his car. He must either really trust me or really like me. Either way bobl had taught me more in a few days than i have learned on my own in year or so time with the cobra forums and the car itself.

I didn't think you were ready to die after what you've been through and have to live for. I was also pretty confident you wouldn't do anything stupid after the small amount of time I've known you. Just wish I had a video of your reaction when I first ran it through the gears! I forgot the Gopro.

Bob

[bobl]

Amen brother! I haven't dyno-ed mine, and the loose estimate is north of 450...I'm really curious now what mine will do. To be honest, I was a bit surprised yours was so high...I almost bit and was going to guess when you asked, but, now I'm glad I didn't...I would have offended...lol. Pretty damn good run!

Hot motors are like pretty women, we can all find the beauty in all them - but, we all have our own kryptonite...mine are old school EFI 5.0s (and my lovely bride is a blonde)..

Chris

Chris, If you'll post all of your engine specs I'd be glad to model your build in my software. I was within 10 HP of Brandon's engine before we dyno'd it.

Bob

[TexasAviator]

I didn't think you were ready to die after what you've been through and have to live for. I was also pretty confident you wouldn't do anything stupid after the small amount of time I've known you. Just wish I had a video of your reaction when I first ran it through the gears! I forgot the Gopro.

Bob

Bob

I dont know about you Bob, but I am exhausted today. After the chase for more horsepower and the time frame we did it in... I am so tired. Needed today to chill. I hope Kathy and you had a relaxing day after our crazy weekend.

Also, the violence that your car throws down is pure adrenaline. At the end of the experience, the blood is pumping and your brain is trying to process what just happened.

[Big Blocker]

Congrats on those dyno numbers . . . well done my friend, well done. And the best part is, you did it yourself, without any help from a "Pro builder". Also, I applaud your tube bending skills, you are a master at detail from what I can see in your pictures - great work.

Keep it going and you'll soon be on the road, doin' those [we were at] 70 mph "blasts" (before you know it). That is where the "learning curve" come into play. Your car, like bobl's, will be a monster and will deserve ALL your respect at all times. Close to 500 HP in a 2100# car is pure adrenaline in it's strongest form . . .

Again, congratulations!!

Doc

[GoDadGo]

Impressive Number To Say The Least!

You'll Have Plenty Of Power!

[cgundermann]

Chris, If you'll post all of your engine specs I'd be glad to model your build in my software. I was within 10 HP of Brandon's engine before we dyno'd it.

Bob

Thanks Bob, here is the updated specifics:

347 with 10:1 compression & traditional multi-point EFI, Comp Cams roller rocker arms, roller Elgin #E1836P Cam (Adv. Duration: 286/289, Duration @ .050" : 224/232, Lift: .542/.563, Lobe Separation: 112 LC)), Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads w/60 cc combustion chamber, 2.02 SS polished intake & 1.60 exhaust valves, 1.45 diameter valve springs w/7 degree locks, fuel rail & regulator running currently at 39 PSI, Edelbrock Performer RPM II upper & lower EFI intake, 30 pound injectors, 70 mm throttle body & Pro-M Racing 80 mm MAF, Pro-M Racing EFI tuneable computer, wide band innovate MTX-L O2 digital gauge sensors (both sides of the motor I've tuned to almost ideal AFR).

Let me know if you need anything more/thanks again sir!

Chris

[Yama-Bro]

Awesome numbers! Congrats man...your car is going to be a screamer!

[bobl]

Thanks Bob, I'm currently out of state (home Thursday) - but, here is the specifics off the top of my head:

347 with 10:1 compression & traditional multi-point EFI, roller rocker arms, roller mid range cam; low end torque (would have to get home and check the specs exactly for the cam), Edelbrock aluminum heads w/60 cc combustion chamber, 2.02 SS polished intake & 1.60 exhaust valves, 1.45 diameter valve springs w/7 degree locks, fuel rail & regulator running currently at 39 PSI, Edelbrock Performer RPM II upper & lower EFI intake, 30 pound injectors & Pro-M Racing 80 mm throttle body, Pro-M Racing EFI tuneable computer, wide band innovate MTX-L O2 digital gauge sensors (both sides of the motor I've tuned to almost ideal AFR).

Let me know if you need anything more/thanks again sir!

Chris

Chris

Need to know the cam specs (or part number), which Edelbrock cylinder head?

[cgundermann]

Need to know the cam specs (or part number), which Edelbrock cylinder head?

Okie Dokie - I'll shoot those to you Thursday when I'm back in town.

Thanks again Bob,

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Need to know the cam specs (or part number), which Edelbrock cylinder head?


Okie Dokie - I'll shoot those to you Thursday when I'm back in town.

Thanks again Bob,

Chris

Cant wait to see what you come up with CG and bobl. Please share when you all work that out.

[TexasAviator]

Impressive Number To Say The Least!

You'll Have Plenty Of Power!


Awesome numbers! Congrats man...your car is going to be a screamer!

GoDad and Yama,

Thank you both. I cant wait to get it in the car. I think its time to bolt the transmission, bellhousing, clutch, and engine together. I think the install party is going down this weekend.

[TexasAviator]

Congrats on those dyno numbers . . . well done my friend, well done. And the best part is, you did it yourself, without any help from a "Pro builder". Also, I applaud your tube bending skills, you are a master at detail from what I can see in your pictures - great work.

Keep it going and you'll soon be on the road, doin' those [we were at] 70 mph "blasts" (before you know it). That is where the "learning curve" come into play. Your car, like bobl's, will be a monster and will deserve ALL your respect at all times. Close to 500 HP in a 2100# car is pure adrenaline in it's strongest form . . .

Again, congratulations!!

Doc

Thank you for the compliments. I am humbled at this stage of the build. Its been great and I have had a ton of help from so many. I hope I can pay it forward for someone else.

Again, thanks.
Brandon

[KDubU]

Those are some great numbers. It definitely will be fun to drive, congrats!

[bobl]

Brandon, I really enjoyed your visit. Wish we would have had more time. My throat was soar from talking so much. Thanks for talking to my grandson about the Air Force. Hopefully he took something away from that conversation that helps him down the road.

Bob

[TexasAviator]

Those are some great numbers. It definitely will be fun to drive, congrats!

Thx


Brandon, I really enjoyed your visit. Wish we would have had more time. My throat was soar from talking so much. Thanks for talking to my grandson about the Air Force. Hopefully he took something away from that conversation that helps him down the road.

Bob

Appreciate you willingness to reach out to me and help. I saw the 383 Chevy motor you dynoed and saw it made 400 horsepower. So I feel your dyno is very accurate and not overly generous. So happy the engine performed so well. I hope the load we put on the engine was sufficient to test against detonation. We won't know until it's in the car on pump gas.

[TexasAviator]

Engine first start video


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOwWbuCQlj0



Tuning the motor to the target AFR. After running the motor a few times it did this on its own with the self tuning software.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4AvOGBX_do


Tuning the motors spark advance. We used 32 and saw a loss in power and increase in torque to the tune of +10tq -10hp per 2 degrees.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKEodh0Vfjc

[cgundermann]

Thanks Bob, here is the updated specifics:

347 with 10:1 compression & traditional multi-point EFI, Comp Cams roller rocker arms, roller Elgin #E1836P Cam (Adv. Duration: 286/289, Duration @ .050" : 224/232, Lift: .542/.563, Lobe Separation: 112 LC)), Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads w/60 cc combustion chamber, 2.02 SS polished intake & 1.60 exhaust valves, 1.45 diameter valve springs w/7 degree locks, fuel rail & regulator running currently at 39 PSI, Edelbrock Performer RPM II upper & lower EFI intake, 30 pound injectors, 70 mm throttle body & Pro-M Racing 80 mm MAF, Pro-M Racing EFI tuneable computer, wide band innovate MTX-L O2 digital gauge sensors (both sides of the motor I've tuned to almost ideal AFR).

Let me know if you need anything more/thanks again sir!

Chris

Updated above/thanks Bob!

[bobl]

Updated above/thanks Bob!

I did a very similar build for user seagull81 earlier this year, so I have a pretty good baseline comparison. His made 440 HP with AFR 185 heads and a comp 282HR cam. He was using the Holley Systemax intake system. I don't know if your intake system is better or worse than his. Substituting your heads, cam and compression I come up with 421 HP at 5700 rpm, 434 ft. lbs. of torque at 4500 rpm. The unknown is the intake you are using. He also had a 70mm throttle body, but not using a MAF since he was using a Megasquirt speed density ECU. I can say that his intake/throttle body system was quite restrictive and was choking the engine above 5500 rpm. With a free flowing intake his engine should have peaked HP at 6200+ rpm, but it quit gaining power at 5500, staying flat until 6000 and then falling off. FYI, these dyno numbers are with all accessories and mufflers in place, so they are a bit more conservative than some dyno tests you read about.

Bob

[cgundermann]

Thanks Bob, the engine builder claims 450 horse & mine should breath better then their dynoed test mule. Appreciate your time!

Thanks again, Chris

[bobl]

Sorry to hijack your thread Brandon. Post some more stuff...

[cgundermann]

He won’t mind, he’s still on cloud nine from his dyno pull!

Chris

[TexasAviator]

C.g. your cam is almost identical to mine!!!

It's going to be a great motor! Post here anytime.

[TexasAviator]

Elgin #E1836P
Adverised 286/289, Duration @ .050" : 224/232, Lift: .542/.563, Lobe Separation: 112 LC

Trickflow 51403002
Adverised 286/294, Duration @ .050" : 224/232, Lift: .542/.563, Lobe Separation: 112 LC

Somebody copied the other guys cam. Lol

[cgundermann]

Elgin #E1836P
Adverised 286/289, Duration @ .050" : 224/232, Lift: .542/.563, Lobe Separation: 112 LC

Trickflow 51403002
Adverised 286/294, Duration @ .050" : 224/232, Lift: .542/.563, Lobe Separation: 112 LC

Somebody copied the other guys cam. Lol

Well, I love Trickflow products...wasn't familiar with Elgin, but they are darn close...

Thanks Brandon,

Chris

[Jeff Kleiner]

Somebody copied the other guys cam.

My Trick Flow camshaft arrived with a Crane Cams camcard. You do the math... ;)

Jeff

[TexasAviator]

My Trick Flow camshaft arrived with a Crane Cams camcard. You do the math... ;)

Jeff

My trickflow cam came with its own card last year when I started my engine build. They all come from the same grinder some where. I wonder who got to that spec first. I found a forum that was using the TFS 2 in 2001.

[TexasAviator]

Very interesting read. http://www.elgincams.com/history.html

[bobl]

There can be a huge difference between cams that appear to have the same specs. That's why it's wise to buy a proven cam that you know will get the results you want, or have a professional design a custom grind for you. You generally only see advertised duration which may not even be measured the same from different companies, and .050 duration which is a more consistent way to compare cams. What you don't know is how aggressive the lobe is. One cam may have much more duration at higher lifts than another of the same specs, thus making much more power. I know it's pretty easy to just copy the lobe of another cam. A lot of companies do that. I once had a cam I really liked in an MG race car that broke. I took a stock cam and the pieces to a company in Dallas and they reground that cam using the pieces as a profile.

Bob

[cgundermann]

Very interesting read. http://www.elgincams.com/history.html

Yes, very good read...

Feel better about mine, but - to Bob's point, interesting to see what a dyno would show.

Chris

[bobl]

A bit more camshaft trivia. Comp Cams measures their cams at .006 lift to determine advertised duration. Crane, TFS and many others use a measurement taken at .004 lift. So, you cannot compare these cams directly. The specs for the TFS cam would be approximately 278/286 if measured the same way Comp measures their cams.
Bob

[bobl]

Brandon, just discovered the TFS stage 2 cam is actually a Crane grind, HR-224/339-2S-12.

[TexasAviator]

Brandon, just discovered the TFS stage 2 cam is actually a Crane grind, HR-224/339-2S-12.

Thanks. The tfs cam is half the price of the crane version. Great cams btw.

[TexasAviator]

Phase 1 of the engine install is happening this week. I have to pick up some bolts, apparently the flywheel bolts I have are a bit different than stock. I will pick up some grade 8 unless you all have a better recommendation. I also need some flange bolts for the bell housing to the block. I love Fastenal, they are nearby and cant wait to run by there tomorrow. I installed the flywheel with fresh ford crank to flywheel bolts and used some red loctite. Torqued to 70 ft lbs then finished them of at 85 ft lbs.

I cleaned the the flywheel surface to remove any residual dirt and packing grease. I then moved onto the transmission. I installed the bell housing with stock Ford flange bolts. I packed the pilot bearing with high temp red grease in the engine. Installed the pivot bolt, throwout bearing, and the fork. Checked it for play on the brand new input shaft and the bearing retainer.

I know many of you use brand new parts but I have not in some cases. If I can... I rebuild them, refresh them, clean them, or replace them when necessary. My entire drive train install consists of new and refreshed parts. They are checked and rechecked for form and function. I adhere to a built not bought policy on many parts.

New parts installed:
Ford heavy duty fork
Ford Pivot bolt
Throwout bearing
Pilot bearing
Rebuilt T5 with T5Z gear set, cobra bearing pack input shaft conversion, electronic speedo, carbon fiber blocker rings/syncro, 5 speed and reverse stop blocks gets rid of grinding gears, smooth top case cover, 2000 mustang rear housing with electronic tone ring conversion, and much more
King Cobra Korea made clutch kit
sfi rpm billet flywheel 28oz
all flywheel bolts
trans to block bolts

Used parts
Bell housing
Fox PRO 5.0 billet, center sprung, short shifter
bell housing bolts
dust shield

All said and done I have about 1000 into my t5z, 200 in my clutch kit, everything was pulled from my foxbody with about 5500 into my engine after the fox partout. Or about 7000 into my entire 475 horsepower drivetrain. Building, reparing, refreshing, and replacing only necessary parts got me into a very healthy drivetrain for very little cash.




https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4644/38111370455_2257b2b3e7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/214LJE4)20171211_214832 (https://flic.kr/p/214LJE4) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4732/27220938839_b9207ab924_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HtqqKH)20171211_214406 (https://flic.kr/p/HtqqKH) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/38961696342_f90f53499f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22mUSVd)20171211_214753 (https://flic.kr/p/22mUSVd) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


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[Mark Eaton]

Brandon, I have been admiring your build thread, your engine is awesome. You are working hard on it and it shows. I am envious and have considered building an engine myself. I rebuilt one back in college in the 1980's. At this point in my life though, time is my most expensive commodity and i think building my own engine would dwindle that commodity. Keep posting!

Mark

[TexasAviator]

Brandon, I have been admiring your build thread, your engine is awesome. You are working hard on it and it shows. I am envious and have considered building an engine myself. I rebuilt one back in college in the 1980's. At this point in my life though, time is my most expensive commodity and i think building my own engine would dwindle that commodity. Keep posting!

Mark

Thanks Mark. I feel the same way about bigger budget, irs, builds. I have little time but a strong desire to wrench. Balance is key to work, family, and car. Appreciate your build as well.

[TexasAviator]

The work continued today. I bought dozens of grade 8 fasteners and washers from Fastenal today. Cost? 3.50 !!!!! I have spent less on hardware than most places charge for shipping. Dont buy bolts for your engine from vendors, LMR, or american muscle. Those guys want 50+ dollars for 3 bucks worth of bolts. Did the same thing on my water pump and accessories drive bolts. Anyway...

engine install: The clutch kit is the Korea Made Valeo unit. If its not made in Korea its not the true Ford Performance parts clutch kit. Its a good sign of the right unit. It also has the 5 spring dampening and is clearly stamped on the kit in several places. Great fit, high quality, great clutch pedal feel, and 440 lb ft of torque in a light car. It also will probably give a bit before it trashed my T5Z so using a fancy clutch in this package is not really necessary IMHO. I also used grade 8 hardware here. Its secured using lock washers and red loctite. Then torqued to 35 ft lbs. These bolts are way better quality than the ones I removed from the donor car. They are not just pretty but quality hardware from Fastenal. These are the same bolts bought around here to be used on oil rigs and thousands of windmill farms here in Texas.

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Install complete.

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Installed the hi torque starter, same pretty much with all stores these days. 100ish bucks for a mini starter. This one is form LMR.com and is the same unit bobl used on his shop engines. Its the NAPA part.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4565/39028162602_efeb86910b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22sMx2d)

Generated by http://tools.rackonly.com (tools.rackonly.com)

[cgundermann]

Looking good; you are really trucking along! You going to wire up your mini-starter directly or still use the remote solenoid? I went back & forth (lots of info/opinions on the forum), but in the end - went with a remote solenoid....which also served as a minibus.

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Looking good; you are really trucking along! You going to wire up your mini-starter directly or still use the remote solenoid? I went back & forth (lots of info/opinions on the forum), but in the end - went with a remote solenoid....which also served as a minibus.

Chris

I have a solenoid but haven't made a decision on that yet. Probably will go directly to the starter since the fitech is self contained and I can run a distribution block for other key on accessories.

[TexasAviator]

engine install phase 2, in no particular order cause flickr makes things hard.


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[TexasAviator]

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[TexasAviator]

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[TexasAviator]

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[TexasAviator]

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And finally...

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Generated by http://tools.rackonly.com (tools.rackonly.com)

[GoDadGo]

One Small Step For Man, One Giant Leap For Your Build!

Congrats Texas, Congrats!

[TexasAviator]

Thanks godad, hope your daughter is doing well. You also have a big engine day coming up as well. Watching...

[cgundermann]

Baby is in the cradle; congratulations Brandon! I saw that intake spacer you mentioned...

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Cg you could sell off all the eeciv tech, make money, buy the fitech, have a much lighter carb look, and versatile combo. I sold all my eeciv stuff and made a couple thousand on it over at corral.net

[cgundermann]

Cg you could sell off all the eeciv tech, make money, buy the fitech, have a much lighter carb look, and versatile combo. I sold all my eeciv stuff and made a couple thousand on it over at corral.net

True Dat, but guess I'm different and like the old school EFI 5.0 look. I ceramic coated my air tube satin black and blacked out the valve covers & upper/lower intake to "murder out" my engine. I'm impressed with the tuneability of the Pro-M Racing engine management system and shockingly taught this old dog some new tricks with some advanced engine tuning via a laptop. The only things left on my car is soundproofing & carpeting...graduation probably next month.

I'm not the engine builder you are and have been truly impressed with your industriousness, knowledge and skills. I will be really curious where you go with body color, striping - chrome vs. blacked out...I'm thinking you are going to go a different or non-traditional route like mine.

Chris

[TexasAviator]

True Dat, but guess I'm different and like the old school EFI 5.0 look. I ceramic coated my air tube satin black and blacked out the valve covers & upper/lower intake to "murder out" my engine. I'm impressed with the tuneability of the Pro-M Racing engine management system and shockingly taught this old dog some new tricks with some advanced engine tuning via a laptop. The only things left on my car is soundproofing & carpeting...graduation probably next month.

I'm not the engine builder you are and have been truly impressed with your industriousness, knowledge and skills. I will be really curious where you go with body color, striping - chrome vs. blacked out...I'm thinking you are going to go a different or non-traditional route like mine.

Chris

I appreciate your build as I am a fox lover and you are right it is a great system with lots of options and ability to fine tune.

I am probably going to do things a bit different. As you said I see the car differently and will make it my own, as you have done.

It will be some time before I am close to graduating.

[cgundermann]

Some people are switching to the linkages from the vendors and they are probably the best route but I dont have a big budget so I am utilizing as much of the stock ffr stuff as possible.

The success to the cable is to either go with a heavy duty Lokar unit or go with the stock ffr cable. The trick to the ffr cable is to not bend it much. If you use it in a large loop it doesn't require anything more than a smooth bend to the throttle. The caveat is that your throttle has to have the ability to pull from the front rather than the rear. I used a plastic bushing to adapt the ffr cable and set screw adapter to the throttle. I also used a bracket from the clutch cable to adapt for use on top the manifold. There is still some work to do and this is just a trial run but pulling from the front keeps the cable engagement very smooth. There is less friction in the cable when its configured this way. With the "S" bends it adds friction and reduces throttle reaction or you have to add additional springs to make up for the slowed movement.

Here is what i came up with. Its still a work in progress. But it is working the way it is now.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4636/39143901801_6ce34e745e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22D1JfD)2017-12-18_04-56-46 (https://flic.kr/p/22D1JfD) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

Looks good; interested to see how it works for you. I’m using the standard FFR one with double/safety throttle springs and it works fine. Of course I don’t know any better...

Chris

[TexasAviator]

Battery tray, mount, install.

The battery placement was a big question for me. I already had a large yellow top and wanted to be able to get it out of the way and utilize space that I see in other builds that wasnt being used. It was too tight in front of the motor and I didnt want to run wire to the trunk. This was the place I decided on. I used a 2013 batter tray from a chevrolet suburban. its bolted down with some nice hardware and I am going to add an "L" bracket on the underside to add rigidity. Its out of the way and everything electrical is all within a few feet of the major electrical.

Battery tray installed and reinforced
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4763/39926709642_b448ef63e1.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4763/39926709642_db946c0760_h.jpg)

Battery on passenger footwell
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Battery, buss, solenoid, wiring.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/26085810648_190893416d.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/26085810648_620b5e9444_h.jpg)

EFI wiring loom and battery
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[TexasAviator]

I started to wire the chassis and I setup the gas tank, the fan relay, the coil, and the other small signals that run through out the chassis.

Mocked up EFI coil and fan relay.
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Fuel Tank wiring and inertia cutoff switch
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4651/26085778348_f3952d0af4.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4651/26085778348_5f434fa776_h.jpg)


Further working on the wiring, the chassis had some personal and unique touches added this month.

Hand laid, individual rolls of wire, braided chassis wiring loom
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Wife hand braiding my chassis wiring
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Hand braided chassis wiring
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Wiring taking place
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[TexasAviator]

I came up with this mount for my stock fuel filter so that I could go to the local parts store when I need some things. Be careful if you are using fuel line for efi since its under pressure. I used 30R9 hose that came with the kit. I hope it holds up. The junk that i had used in the past literally discentegrated from ethanol in the fuel. It was 30R7 read this article on why R7 is bad stuff for pump gas cars. https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/on-the-vehicle/powertrain/fuels/article/12044377/modern-fuels-require-modern-fuel-hose

EFI hardline fuel hose bracket
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/28178809359_ff4f82121c.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/28178809359_f67cfead47_h.jpg)

Fuel Filter mount, hard line bracket
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[TexasAviator]

Here is the car in the garage at the moment. Little by little things are getting done but I still have a tremendous way to go.



Dream car in my dream garage
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Dream garage and the dream car
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[TexasAviator]

Power steering rack installed. Got quite a few things planned for this and I will come back and update this post when I get more pump and lines installed.

Power steering rack installed, sold the manual rack.
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Updated July 8th 2018 I used a kit from ebay that was about 150 bucks for the pulley, the bracket and the belt. All were purchased separately but from the same buyer. The belt was 57.3 gates brand done in the v coniguration. I may later do the S configuration to get more bite on the pulley but for now this is working great.

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[TexasAviator]

RIVETS RIVETS AND MORE RIVETS

I still have much to do on the sheet metal. Here are some neat tricks. I got the idea from a member here. I drilled holes in tape. I then made it unique to my build. I used spacing that I got from the plane that I fly on. Its aircraft spaced riveting and I did a some homework on strength in the riveting. Its another unique touch to my build that I thought would add a personal touch.



Aircraft spacing rivet placement
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4665/39248196194_d786a508fb.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4665/39248196194_9e92b215ea_h.jpg)


Using tape with holes drilled in it to get correct rivet spacing
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Of course the holes get closer together with every revolution of tape ;) Looking good Brandon!

Jeff

[TexasAviator]

Thanks Jeff,

Yes the number of rivets will increase as the tape gets used up in some sections. I am only using the tape on long runs, its easier to use a ruler on most of the car.

[bobl]

Battery tray, mount, install.

The battery placement was a big question for me. I already had a large yellow top and wanted to be able to get it out of the way and utilize space that I see in other builds that wasnt being used. It was too tight in front of the motor and I didnt want to run wire to the trunk. This was the place I decided on. I used a 2013 batter tray from a chevrolet suburban. its bolted down with some nice hardware and I am going to add an "L" bracket on the underside to add rigidity. Its out of the way and everything electrical is all within a few feet of the major electrical.

Battery tray installed and reinforced
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4763/39926709642_b448ef63e1.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4763/39926709642_db946c0760_h.jpg)

Battery on passenger footwell
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4667/39248231814_9bfc48c072.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4667/39248231814_4abeaab7ea_h.jpg)

Battery, buss, solenoid, wiring.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/26085810648_190893416d.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/26085810648_620b5e9444_h.jpg)

EFI wiring loom and battery
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4669/39248230454_afd4cfa59c.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4669/39248230454_1496d52b9c_h.jpg)

Does momma know you stole her battery tray???

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks Jeff,

Yes the number of rivets will increase as the tape gets used up in some sections. I am only using the tape on long runs, its easier to use a ruler on most of the car.

I hope you realized that I was mostly just pulling your leg----you'd have to run a lot of tape to notice the change :)

Jeff

[TexasAviator]

Does momma know you stole her battery tray???

Haha, she had a dual battery setup and the other one was not being used so I stole it. No she does not know but man it works great! I also went to autozone and bought a tie down kit for a chevy and it fits so well.


I hope you realized that I was mostly just pulling your leg----you'd have to run a lot of tape to notice the change :)

Jeff

No worries its the truth. I am trying to make this thing as personal as possible. Hard to do when this car has been built by pros, and great people for 2 decades.

[TexasAviator]

.
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcG0dl1ksw0

Here is another video of how I wired the MK4. There are dozens of spools of wire but I know where every wire goes and what it does. What a mess. Wish I had done the Ron Francis Wiring kit but again, like everything on this car its all built by me.

I really like the functionality of the Grote unit. It runs brakes, signals, headlights, and hazards all from one switch.

Tim Austin over on facebook asked me for the part number. Found it. 48282

[cgundermann]

RIVETS RIVETS AND MORE RIVETS

I still have much to do on the sheet metal. Here are some neat tricks. I got the idea from a member here. I drilled holes in tape. I then made it unique to my build. I used spacing that I got from the plane that I fly on. Its aircraft spaced riveting and I did a some homework on strength in the riveting. Its another unique touch to my build that I thought would add a personal touch.



Aircraft spacing rivet placement
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4665/39248196194_d786a508fb.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4665/39248196194_9e92b215ea_h.jpg)


Using tape with holes drilled in it to get correct rivet spacing
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4648/39060473435_2c7890ab01.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4648/39060473435_ee94416ae0_h.jpg)

That looks very nice, - those panels/frame should be stout...that's a lot of riveting!

Chris

[Jeff Kleiner]

Brandon, I gotta' tell you, ammeters make me nervous. Looks like yours pegs at 60 amps...What is your alternator capable of? Hopefully less than the meter's maximum. Maybe you have and I missed it but if not please install a fusable link or megafuse upstream of the meter to be safe.

Jeff

[TexasAviator]

Brandon, I gotta' tell you, ammeters make me nervous. Looks like yours pegs at 60 amps...What is your alternator capable of? Hopefully less than the meter's maximum. Maybe you have and I missed it but if not please install a fusable link or megafuse upstream of the meter to be safe.

Jeff

I am torn on running one too. I keep going back and forth. The 60 amp ammeter is actually very stout, even the one included with the donor. The reason is that amps are only exceeded if demand is there for it. With every accessory on a car including power windows, locks, stereos and other goodies on a modern car, you wont see 60 amps at a single given time. If you happen to be unlocking your car with the stereo banging, flip the door locks, and have your flashers, headlights, and fogs on, you might see 60 amps of draw.

I am not an electrician but I have dabbled with electrical and theory since i was 12. I have studied, built, and wired everything from a house, to a 1000 watt ham radio amp. Sold 6 of them as fast as I could make them. I have a pretty good background and this is my first time with the car wiring, I have done car audio for 20 years. Electronics is where I should have got my degree but I ended up loving flying so much I made Aerospace my focus.

The battery or alternator on our cars will never pull more than the demand needed. I added up the headlights, tail lights, blower motor, fan motor, and fuel pump. If all pull full power it will still be less than 60 amps. I have a 100 amp circuit breaker on the main lead of the alternator for protection

[TexasAviator]

.
.
Got my air oil separator installed with a SN95 mustang PCV valve installed in the PS valve cover. This keeps the oil out of the intake and stops gumming up the pistons and valves.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4670/38699487880_111b2554c8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21XJZtE)20180226_145432 (https://flic.kr/p/21XJZtE) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/40467227932_fe5c1e67a4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24DX81q)20180226_145459 (https://flic.kr/p/24DX81q) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4604/39614513155_3c9f42539d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23mAJBv)20180226_155527 (https://flic.kr/p/23mAJBv) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

Some other things I got ordered and done today.

Clips for the rear brake cables.
Forward cable and equalizer for the brakes utilizing a new ford front cable system.
Electrical Electrical and more electrical
Installed ford mustang horns on the driver side support under the distribution block for the brakes.
Installed a 100 amp breaker for the in cab accessories and electrical components.
Installed the 30 amp fuel relay.
Installed the turned fomoco brake rotors. Used but in great condition with plenty of life left in them.
Installed some of the exhaust header bolts.
Wired the horns from the install.
More and more electrical all by hand. I strung every wire on the chassis by hand.
Installed the radiator with the provided stainless steel hoses and the provided couplers and clamps.

Parts
Turned rotors. 60 dollars
Heater core hoses 40 dollars
Relays and misc electrical parts 100 dollars
Heater hose with cap and filler neck 55 dollars
Heater hose pressure reducer 10 dollars
Brake parts, c clips, front cable to hand brake 55 dollars
PCV valve 10 dollars
Steeda Air oil separator 65 dollars
9mm Wires Ford Racing 50 dollars.

All from LMR.com

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/39614520335_4bb55abf2c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23mALKi)20180226_145715 (https://flic.kr/p/23mALKi) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

REAR SETUP

16.5 Inches from roll bar center hole on left body hole.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4743/40509562641_ac424aeda6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24HG6Dc)20180226_160530 (https://flic.kr/p/24HG6Dc) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

15.5 inches from roll bar center hole on left mount.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/39614872355_51480505bf_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23mCzoB)20180226_160123 (https://flic.kr/p/23mCzoB) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

Should leave me an inch of tuck for the rear tires.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/39614517165_480ee94a8b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23mAKND)20180226_150130 (https://flic.kr/p/23mAKND) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/39799480784_e1f954ca2d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23CWK3y)20180226_153048 (https://flic.kr/p/23CWK3y) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

FRONT SETUP

20.5 Inches from hood opening to edge of wheel well

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4656/26638673868_53eb9a6344_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GzYaEu)20180226_160623 (https://flic.kr/p/GzYaEu) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

20.5 inches from outside of tire to inside frame rail on the chassis

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4743/26638672958_92319fb6c2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GzYaoN)20180226_160734 (https://flic.kr/p/GzYaoN) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

Should leave me flush with the outter tire or better. With a bit of camber I should have a clean tuck.

[TexasAviator]

Here are some extra shots of the wheels and tires I ended up with.



https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/38699484240_56388a430f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21XJYoU)20180226_151228 (https://flic.kr/p/21XJYoU) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


Front 275/40ZR17 Tire on 17x9

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4607/39614511085_014d3f53f3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23mAHZP)20180226_160807 (https://flic.kr/p/23mAHZP) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr


Rear 315/35ZR17 Tire on 17x10.5

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4713/38699478090_eb0c20140a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21XJWyS)20180226_161128 (https://flic.kr/p/21XJWyS) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr



NT555 these are going to need some tirestickers.com

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4744/39614514845_7f8fb1473d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23mAK7D)20180226_153032 (https://flic.kr/p/23mAK7D) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr



10.5 inch wide front tire and 12.5 inch rear tire

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4616/39614516865_673a753194_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23mAKHt)20180226_150401 (https://flic.kr/p/23mAKHt) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks good Brandon; it's always exciting to get them up on their feet!




FRONT SETUP

20.5 Inches from hood opening to edge of wheel well...

...20.5 inches from outside of tire to inside frame rail on the chassis


Not an exact indicator because the hood opening is not centered on the engine bay 3/4" square tubing. Which spindles? FFR, Fox and '94-'95 will get 275s under, but not by much. '96 and later will put them out a bit. You need to be sure your body guy knows to trim the wheelwell returns back.

[TexasAviator]

Looks good Brandon; it's always exciting to get them up on their feet!



Not an exact indicator because the hood opening is not centered on the engine bay 3/4" square tubing. Which spindles? FFR, Fox and '94-'95 will get 275s under, but not by much. '96 and later will put them out a bit. You need to be sure your body guy knows to trim the wheelwell returns back.

I know I was just getting an idea of where it may end up from the center of the wheel well.
thanks for your knowledge and awareness of my thread. It is a sn95 spindle with the raised knuckle tie rod mount

[Yama-Bro]

Man, those wheels look sweet. Those are my favorite rims for Cobra replicas if going larger than 15". I think I asked this on your Facebook post, but what kind of rims are those?

[TexasAviator]

I'm sorry. Thought I got everyone on there. They are lmr.com bullit anthracite 17's. The full specs are on my first post in my build thread.

[cgundermann]

I'm sorry. Thought I got everyone on there. They are lmr.com bullit anthracite 17's. The full specs are on my first post in my build thread.

Also, one of my favorites - looks awesome Brandon.

Chris

[GoDadGo]

Go Big Or Go Home!

I'm looking forward to seeing what your car looks like with the body on.

Good Luck & Hope Your Tire Plan Works Out!

[Jim1855]

I like 'em. I've looked at those wheels many times, nice to know that they work.
I'm planning on the same sizes or maybe 335s in the rear. Tires look great.
Jim

[TexasAviator]

Also, one of my favorites - looks awesome Brandon.

Chris

Thanks man, means a lot. I know you come from fox blood and I was hoping you would approve.


Go Big Or Go Home!

I'm looking forward to seeing what your car looks like with the body on.

Good Luck & Hope Your Tire Plan Works Out!

Thanks GoDad, I hope your family is doing better and that you can continue to work on the car while taking care of your mom. I cant wait to see how it turns out but I think they are going to work out great.

I checked the turn radius of the front tires today and they didnt rub anywhere with the body off. They stuff nicely and I put a small curly Q in the brake lines to tuck them behind the tire at full lock. Worked out great.


I like 'em. I've looked at those wheels many times, nice to know that they work.
I'm planning on the same sizes or maybe 335s in the rear. Tires look great.
Jim

A 335 would be crazy, hope the best for what you come up with. I cant believe how big th 315 fills out the rear of the car.

I am also using the wider SN95 rear track width, so the backspacing works out great even with the wider axles.

[TexasAviator]

Messing around with the zip ties today.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4742/26676203578_609e313afc_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4742/26676203578_82d64a5c40_h.jpg)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/26676203388_4a385f8a1e_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/26676203388_4a385f8a1e_b.jpg)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4701/38736989520_35bc89be4d_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4701/38736989520_a2c7558cef_h.jpg)

[cgundermann]

Messing around with the zip ties today.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4742/26676203578_609e313afc_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4742/26676203578_82d64a5c40_h.jpg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/26676203388_4a385f8a1e_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/26676203388_4a385f8a1e_b.jpg)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4701/38736989520_35bc89be4d_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4701/38736989520_a2c7558cef_h.jpg)


Never seen that done before; that worked out slick!

Chris

[David Hodgkins]

Hi Brandon,

I noticed the back cockpit wall looks like it was riveted. Can you still get your upper trunk floor in place now?

:)

[TexasAviator]

Hi Brandon,

I noticed the back cockpit wall looks like it was riveted. Can you still get your upper trunk floor in place now?

:)

Just now. Slid in pretty easy, just had to maneuver it around the roll bar mounts a bit. Not bad. No trimming needed either. But thanks for the looking out.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4743/40525705262_52b0b4bfe3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24K7Qhf)2018-03-02_12-13-35 (https://flic.kr/p/24K7Qhf) by Brandon Fertig (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158928436@N07/), on Flickr

[TexasAviator]

Driveshaft is in.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4698/40525892012_fb2c699a58_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4698/40525892012_f06c2db579_h.jpg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4720/39673549795_af3fb0c9f6_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4720/39673549795_3474b17b42_h.jpg)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4678/25697768707_f6e37679a3_z.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4678/25697768707_26cc2997f2_h.jpg)

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think David was asking about the trunk floor because it can be difficult to drill & rivet once the rear cockpit wall is in place.

You're moving right along here recently Brandon!

Jeff

[TexasAviator]

Hi Brandon,

I noticed the back cockpit wall looks like it was riveted. Can you still get your upper trunk floor in place now?

:)


I think David was asking about the trunk floor because it can be difficult to drill & rivet once the rear cockpit wall is in place.

You're moving right along here recently Brandon!

Jeff

Oh geesh you both are right. Wouldnt be the first time I worked ahead and had to move back a bit to adjust. That is part of the crazyness of this car. Its frustrating sometimes but still so much fun. I will figure this out but I may need to get creative.

[TexasAviator]

Looking good; you are really trucking along! You going to wire up your mini-starter directly or still use the remote solenoid? I went back & forth (lots of info/opinions on the forum), but in the end - went with a remote solenoid....which also served as a minibus.

Chris

I chunked the solenoid. Went from a circuit on my hood fuse box and its a dedicated 20 amp circuit running through the FFR ignition switch. It doesn't pull that much since the mini-starter has its own solenoid.

[TexasAviator]

Got some stuff done tonight and sat in the car and rowed some gears. All fluids are in the car. I am using 30 weight zinc Amsoil for break-in (second oil change with different oil and filter). AMsoil Synthetic AT trans fluid in the t5z and amsoil in the rear gear. The coolant is Prestone Concentrate (17 a gallon).

Got the gauges in the car using the provided dash from ffr. I hate it and I am going to change it.

Also completed my gas pedal install. I used clean looking fox rubber pads and the FFR pedal. I really like this pedal. The FFR cable kept coming undone so I went to pep boys and bought the LOKAR 36 inch cable and throttle linkage bracket. 100 bucks and done. I must of spent most of the day messing with the crappy FFR throttle cable. Throw it out! I used 4 washers and a bolt to make my cable stop. I also checked it against my FITECH computer. at the stop I am at 100.5% WOT. Very happy with the feel. Its very stiff with the extra springs and will allow me to not blip the throttle unless I hammer it. Much more control.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/26714962758_ec01a68927_c.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/26714962758_60411917d8_h.jpg)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4714/38776607930_fe6aefcf1e_c.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4714/38776607930_309871e4b0_h.jpg)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4659/40586582271_c13c442a99_c.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4659/40586582271_9beb2c2101_h.jpg)


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/40544771582_eb25ea3dc3_c.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/40544771582_eb25ea3dc3_b.jpg)

[TexasAviator]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ffrbuilder/permalink/2068185849875062/

First start.

[stevo7896]

May have to check the link ,didn't show on my computer came back with broken link message

[TexasAviator]

thx will do

[TexasAviator]

does it work now?

[mike223]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ffrbuilder/permalink/2068185849875062/

First start.


Trapping yourself and all your stuff in the garage on first start is a really bad idea...

Just trying to help.

[TexasAviator]

Trapping yourself and all your stuff in the garage on first start is a really bad idea...

Just trying to help.

you are good, I felt the risk was very low.

[japollon]

TA, Congratulations to you! Always an exciting day when they start and all goes according to plan. Hearing it roar to life....there can be no bad days! Good for you!

[TexasAviator]

TA, Congratulations to you! Always an exciting day when they start and all goes according to plan. Hearing it roar to life....there can be no bad days! Good for you!

Thanks, it was a good experience for me but what I didnt show in the video was that I found a few oil seeps at the top of the holes in my valve covers, a water drip from me not tightening the clamps. And a few other areas of attention. No need to worry however because that is what the first start is for. I can now move on to final brake bleed/check, fuel system check, power steering pump install and check, then I can start the go cart phase.