View Full Version : Modifying Throttle Pedal for Better Heel/Toe
Rob T
11-13-2016, 09:07 AM
I know there have been some discussions on throttle pedal mounting. The depth of my pedal is perfect, but I'd like to have it a little closer to the brake for easier heel/toe shifting. I really don't want to move the whole pedal assembly and am not sure I could anyway because of room. It looks like there is a crimped on aluminum cover on the pedal. Has anyone found a wider cover or come up with some idea about extending the pedal to the left, while keeping the stock plastic pedal body? This one is from a 2007 WRX. I am attaching a few shots of the situation. Thanks, Rob
Mitch Wright
11-13-2016, 09:59 AM
I just bent mine but mine isn't drive by wire, what I would do is cut a piece of aluminum and bolt it pedal to make it wider and closer to the brake pedal.60922
Hindsight
11-13-2016, 10:55 AM
Rob, I have the same DBW pedal. I used some spacer sleeves to move the pedal to the depth I wanted. I'm happy with the proximity to the brake pedal for heel to toe. I think Chad did the same thing with the spacers. However, looking at your pic, it appears to me that you have the same issue I do: Your pedal bracket is bent. Note how your pedal is tweaked to the right (you can most easily see it in the third pic you posted where the drive-by-wire housing for the pedal is pushed off to the right). If you fixed the bend in the bracket, it would move the pedal substantially closer to the brake pedal. Also, you might experiment with the pedal depth a little more too... the closer it is to you, the less you need to worry about moving it to the left.
I see you have a pedal stop which is good.... it could be that the stop is too low, or the bracket got bent before the pedal stop was added. I need to add a stop for mine too. Mounting it to the firewall is ok but if you push hard, you can flex the firewall which will make the stop move. I'm planning on mounting a 1/8" thick steel plate diagonally across the frame bars (using rivet nuts), and have the stop on the steel plate.
DSR-3
11-13-2016, 01:08 PM
I didn't get a DBW pedal with my donor parts, and I thought about the one I've been using for almost 10 years on my G35- which I love the sensitivity/feel of. $32 on ebay and some easy mounting.
Rob T
11-13-2016, 03:52 PM
Thanks. I took a closer look. The bracket does appear to be a little bent, moving the pedal to the right and a little tipped to the passenger side. The forces here sure work to twist the bracket that way as designed. There appears to be an option to bend the bracket back, or shim the top bolt under the bracket to counteract the twisting force. Opinions? As for working there, it is really tough to access any of that. I am going to have to install a sky hook from my garage roof to lower myself in. I'm sure that is not news to anyone here on the forum. Another example where 5' 8" and 135 pounds is not the end of the world...
flynntuna
11-13-2016, 05:03 PM
" Another example where 5' 8" and 135 pounds is not the end of the world..."
Well that and clearing spider holes.
Bob_n_Cincy
11-13-2016, 06:18 PM
I used a throttle pedal out of a 04-05 FXT or 04-05 STI DBW.
I did not like the plastic one. I also had to add a pedal stop.
I haven't attempted heel-toe driving, so I don't know how that will work in my car.
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Bob
Mitch Wright
11-13-2016, 06:39 PM
Bob, I didn't have a problem rev matching when I have driven your car.
SixStar
11-16-2016, 04:14 PM
I have to bend my pedal back every time I race. I've simply been too lazy to make a stop for it. The issue is the upper portion where the cable goes in hits the FFR frame and stops the pedal, then you can just smash it into the firewall and bend it.
The good news, I've bent it back level with the brake pad about 2 dozen times now without it snapping off. DBW swap very soon.....
C.Plavan
11-16-2016, 04:45 PM
You can just add something like this to it, or make something. Drill a couple holes, use a washer and a nylock. Just make sure you have some adjustment- too close and it gets scary :).
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/wm.php/images/rennline-997-adjlifterplate1.jpg
flynntuna
11-16-2016, 08:13 PM
Ya could go the redneck route.:rolleyes:
Rob T
11-16-2016, 10:53 PM
Most excellent....just like the jet boat I always wanted....wouldn't need to worry about brakes then, either....or shifting. ;)
RetroRacing
11-17-2016, 03:33 PM
That's a bit close!
Rob T
11-20-2016, 08:34 PM
OK...made the mods today. Got to work with Aluminum and rivets. The pedal is much closer, but not too close. I took Chad's advice and left it "adjustable", but it does require disassembly to do. I tried it on the trailer and it seems like it will be really good, while being safe...It was a bit tricky matching the contour of the pedal.
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Rob T
11-20-2016, 08:35 PM
Not sure how to get the pictures to face the right way. They are correct on my computer. Sorry for the upside down pedals.
Mitch Wright
11-20-2016, 09:17 PM
Looks good Rob, that should do the trick.