bumpsteer kit

[Lumpyguy]

Is there a part number for the baer bumpsteer kit everyone seems to be using?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

baer 3851001 from summit $175

60273

[Lumpyguy]

thanks bob, I take I the taper for the rod end matches the spindle?

[Pearldrummer7]

You can also do what Rasmus and I did (among others I'm sure) and make your own

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14526-818R-Baer-Bumpsteer-Install-Guide&p=155567&viewfull=1#post155567

[tmoretta]

I see on Bob and Cincy's pic. that the blue bolt on strut mount tabs (on lca) seem to be mounted opposite direction to others. Which is correct?

[wirenut]

Will this work for a '06 WRX?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I see on Bob and Cincy's pic. that the blue bolt on strut mount tabs (on lca) seem to be mounted opposite direction to others. Which is correct?

Hi Tmoretta,
Most pictures in the manual have the lower shock mount bracket the opposite as mine.
The manual also has a cad picture showing it the other way.
During my build, I always gave priority to the engineering cad drawings.
Bob
60651

[FFRSpec72]

Here are the parts I sourced out to get a bump steer kit that would work, height wise and ajustable (LH and RH Threads), it is chaper by a small margin over the Baer and other kits (and no spindle modification required)

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjust...=91636055PINTO (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html?OriginalQuery=91636055PINTO)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search...+Inch+x+1+Inch (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=Steel+Control+Arm+Spacer%2C+5%2F8+Inc h+x+1+Inch)
http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?m...21083&x=21&y=8 (http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92_539_540&products_id=1697)
http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...earch=J0041201 (http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php?route=product/search&search=J0041201)

[Frank818]

Subscribing!

[FFRSpec72]

Update on the bump steer and spindle adapters, both are installed, I did take the rod end studs to a machine shop to mill off a slight amount as the angle/taper was not exact, but it will work, I just wanted to be 100% sure I don't have issues on the track. Also I used the 5.5" sleeves and the 3.5" may be better, so I updated the links to the 3.5. With the new spindle adapters the tire is real close to rubbing on upper balljoint so may back off little on the angle of the spindle adapter or add a 5mm wheel spacer

61591 61592 61593 61594

[Frank818]

You had to cut the OEM rod ends?

[Harley818]

Looks good Tony. I'll be bookmarking this thread for when I get on the road with my S. Then I'll make the adjustments after driving for a bit.

[Pearldrummer7]

Looks great, Tony. Pretty much exactly what I did on my R

[FFRSpec72]

You had to cut the OEM rod ends?

No I did not, so the steering ends are stock and the rod ends are just what you select

[Frank818]

Is there a consensus that a bumpsteer kit is required on both S/C and R? Some people may not care if it bump steers, my question is not subjective here but factual.

[FFRSpec72]

Is there a consensus that a bumpsteer kit is required on both S/C and R? Some people may not care if it bump steers, my question is not subjective here but factual.

100% required on R

[Mitch Wright]

Agree I believe it would be a benefit on the S, must on the R

[Frank818]

I am currently looking at buying these parts.

Tony did you choose the GM or Pinto taper jam nuts on the rod end adapter stud?
You got the extra long 2.625" rod ends from Heims, is it cuz there's no safe way to use the much cheaper standard 1.625" long ends?

[FFRSpec72]

I am currently looking at buying these parts.

Tony did you choose the GM or Pinto taper jam nuts on the rod end adapter stud?
You got the extra long 2.625" rod ends from Heims, is it cuz there's no safe way to use the much cheaper standard 1.625" long ends?

I used the Pinto, not a 100% fit but close enough, for street usage, but I had them turned just a tad at a machine shop for a 100% fit, I think if you use the shorter rod ends you will be fine as you can see from the pic that that 5.5" sleeve takes up most of the threads, so a 3.5" sleeve and a short rod end will be fine

[Frank818]

Thanks so much man! I'm looking at sourcing now, as I got quoted 53 bucks for shipping of 2 rod ends at Steinjager... Damn Canada...

I wonder if that kit is sufficient for an S.
Jeff had 46-47mm spacers (1-7/8"), it seems you can do 50mm, yeah that'd be fine. Although Mitch went as down as 63mm. Still searching to understand how this works...

[Canadian818]

Maybe we should order them together Frank? Couldn't cost much to ship them from Quebec to Alberta after.

[FFRSpec72]

Thanks so much man! I'm looking at sourcing now, as I got quoted 53 bucks for shipping of 2 rod ends at Steinjager... Damn Canada...

I wonder if that kit is sufficient for an S.
Jeff had 46-47mm spacers (1-7/8"), it seems you can do 50mm, yeah that'd be fine. Although Mitch went as down as 63mm. Still searching to understand how this works...

Watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Stp9kHAGfXQ

[Frank818]

Maybe we should order them together Frank? Couldn't cost much to ship them from Quebec to Alberta after.

Excellent idea but in the meantime Tony explained that 2.625" long rods aren't required. The standard 1.6" or so are sufficient. Those can be had from ebay for 17 bucks a pair of shipping to Canada. However I am trying to have a quote on the RaceCraft sleeves. Also found out they sell it in ON, we'll see which ones is best and the benefits of doubling the order. Will keep ya posted in PM on that.

[STiPWRD]

Excellent idea but in the meantime Tony explained that 2.625" long rods aren't required. The standard 1.6" or so are sufficient. Those can be had from ebay for 17 bucks a pair of shipping to Canada. However I am trying to have a quote on the RaceCraft sleeves. Also found out they sell it in ON, we'll see which ones is best and the benefits of doubling the order. Will keep ya posted in PM on that.
This is one of those critical areas where you don't want to use the cheap/chinese version of rod ends. If you're certain of the quality then by all means - Ebay away.

[Frank818]

I agree!!

You tell me but those look like USA made with pride: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Steel-Heim-Joint-Rod-Ends-5-8-18-LH-Male-/322189403198?hash=item4b03fc243e:g:wBsAAOSwzLlXhD0 x&vxp=mtr

[Canadian818]

The longer sleeves will also help those of us whose rack isn't centred, so that a rack extension can be eliminated.

[DMC7492]

Looks like this bumpsteer thread is almost a year old. How is the Baer bumpsteer kit working on a S ride height of 4.5" -5"?? Are the tapered studs long enough?

[Lumpyguy]

I bought the baer bumpsteer kit and it made a huge difference in my car but It still needs a bit more. It drives pretty good on my S model with 4.5" of ground clearance. I will leave it for now as its not bad for me. but I am not picky.

[Hindsight2.0]

I'm at 4.5" of clearance and I found with my bump-steer gauge that about 46mm in shim height was the perfect amount. The Baer tapered studs don't get you there. I'm sure the studs will help, but they won't get it ideal. I used all parts of the kit except the taper stud. I used a big bolt instead, and bought some aftermarket shims to get me to 46mm.

What's really needed to get it right are tie-rod extenders. About 2.5" per side. But the bump steer kit alone makes an enormous difference.

[tgf05354]

will this bolt in and work?
http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92_539_543&products_id=646&zenid=3b1448d68a0bc53cf39d29e0f396ca47
I'm having some wondering/tramlining/bump steer with my 818s and I'm trying to sort it out. Rear track bars are parallel. Alignment is -.5 camber,5 caster, .03 toe in front. -.5 camber and .10 toe in back. Ride height is 4.5. Would adding a bump steer kit help?

[Hindsight2.0]

A bump steer kit would help but the pinto taper is not correct. It's close, but not close enough.

[tgf05354]

The baer kit 3851001 is listed for 02-05 WRX. I have 06 aluminum LCA. Is there a kit that will fit these?

[Hindsight2.0]

I'm not at a place where I can check my hotmail account to see if I ordered that exact part number or not but I'm 95% certain that's the one that fits them all. The LCA doesn't factor into it. It's between the tie-rod and the spindle. So it should work fine.

To get enough shim, you'll need to order more shims online and use a big bolt (5/8" I think) - I should have pics in my build thread and C.PLavan documented the whole process as well, with pics. Just note that you won't need/want the same number of shims he did unless you are at the R ride height. If you are at the S height, you'll want about 46mm of shims.

[wirenut]

The baer kit 3851001 is listed for 02-05 WRX. I have 06 aluminum LCA. Is there a kit that will fit these?

Yes it fits. I have that exact setup.

[kcarlasc]

This is going to be a stupid question... but u should be able to adjust the toe using the sleeves right? When I spin mine they just spin up and down on the rod and the end. I am assuming I got the either the sleeves backwards or the rod ends...

[Frank818]

It should push/pull on both ends at the same time, otherwise the sleeve will move. On end needs to be left handed and the other right ended.

[kcarlasc]

Thanks.. according to everything I read and a comment from Wayne of FB the ends are both RH

[DMC7492]

Hi after reviewing the Bear bump steer kit, it is not long enough to properly set the bump steer angle, even at 4.5" ride height. I'm upwards close to 5" ride height. To get the proper bump steer angle I need longer studs or big bolts with more spacers. this also places the load or the moment further from the spindle.
What would be wrong with raising the rack and centering it at the same time. The location of the rack would need to be mounted once the finished ride height is set.
TADA! no kit needed and the original configuration is used. The only issue I can see is the angle of the steering column will change slightly.
Am I missing something very important? I wonder it FFR set the rack to the original geometry of the WRX then lowered the car so much it messed up the proper angle. Any thoughts? Bad thing is it will require a bit of cutting and re welding. but hey its just part of the build, Right?

[Mitch Wright]

Check out a number of R builds, my spacer's were 2.5 inches + or - at 3.5" ride height

[DMC7492]

Hello after a bit of work on raising the rack and setting the bump steer. I added rack extensions of about 2.75" the rack boots are too short and I need longer boots does any body have a source? the boots need to be about 12" when at full turn right or left.

[lance corsi]

I ordered 2 sets of boots from Subaru and then cut them in order to splice them back together, only longer than stock. I used some rubber cement to rejoin the two modified halves, yielding longer boots that fit on both ends. Don’t order aftermarket boots, as they are more like plastic and do not lend themselves to alterations. Hope this helps.

[DMC7492]

Hi everybody I completed my bumpsteer. I raised the rack 15/16 of an inch.shorten up the outer tie rod ends.shortened up the inner tie rod ends and machined 2.75” rack extenders. The ride height was set to 5.125”.
The front end alignment done camber .875, caster 5.125, toe 1/16”
Bumpsteer before was bad driving.
extending was up to .395 “ toe out at 1” and
compression was .430” toe in at 2”
After these adjustments I have
Extending .009” out @1”
Ride height 0.00
Compression .025 out@1.5”
Longer boots were found at speed way here are some pictures
I did not drive yet once I get the front back on I’ll test drive
114305
114306
114307
114308

[metros]

Is that an awic reservoir?

[DMC7492]

Is that an awic reservoir?

Not needed it is a 12 gallon fuel tank.
the intercooler runs a little over ambient with the thin 1" AWIC radiator since it sucks air off the road surface it is higher than air temp. tuned for that is not a problem

[DSR-3]

Bumping this thread for the benefit of those who don't know.
I would add to the previous "100% required on R"- "100% required on S" also.
I had over 1,000 miles on the car, and had gotten used to it's "sensitive" sometimes even twitchy behavior. No on else had ever driven the car, and I had to wonder who I would trust driving it- certainly not my novice driver son. Getting back to working on (finishing?) the car as the weather got colder I was all set to order separate parts & materials, and make it a project. Then I came back to the ease and speed of ordering the Baer kit from Summit... Next day it was installed! Based on other's notes here, I maxed out the spacers/washers (keeping safely through the nylock nut). Of course, rather than dig out my bump-steer gauge rig (and do more work), I went for a test drive. Wow! It normalized the the car so much, and it is so much better to drive. Most roads around me are garbage, and this car get's thrown around. Now I can deal with these upsets without the car doing it's own thing. Even on what are considered good roads the difference is obvious.
Possibly the best $180 adder to the car, and worth every penny.

[RDRP]

Hi everybody I completed my bumpsteer. I raised the rack 15/16 of an inch.shorten up the outer tie rod ends.shortened up the inner tie rod ends and machined 2.75” rack extenders. The ride height was set to 5.125”.
The front end alignment done camber .875, caster 5.125, toe 1/16”
Bumpsteer before was bad driving.
extending was up to .395 “ toe out at 1” and
compression was .430” toe in at 2”
After these adjustments I have
Extending .009” out @1”
Ride height 0.00
Compression .025 out@1.5”
Longer boots were found at speed way here are some pictures
I did not drive yet once I get the front back on I’ll test drive
114305
114306
114307
114308

I cannot wait for an update on this! Looks like a great solution. I have not like how twitchy mine drives on less than perfect roads although I have gotten used to it.

[DMC7492]

Update will be next summer possibly, the front end is getting a inner wheel well overhaul.
One other big problem it the slop in the grommet the lower end of the steering column goes through. I had 3/8" slop in the hole for the grommet so off to the lathe to machine a sleeve to weld into the opening that fits the grommet OD. When hitting bumps the bump steer would shock the steering wheel and it would move up down and all around!! BAD!!make one of these and weld into place. my column is from a 2005 WRX.
119549

[DMC7492]

Hi everybody, after many hours in the shop. Finishing my front inner wheel wells and intercooler radiator, I was able to take the 818S on the street on the hottest day 94 Fahrenheit.
Testing the Bump steer upgrade from almost four years ago.
The results are spectacular! Hitting some serious bumps and bad roads. All the changes to the ride height and steering rack eliminated the steering wheel from ripping your hands.
I was impressed with the smoothness of bumps but even more impressed when I got it on a smooth new asphalt road and could get into the gas without thinking about the steering!!
What a game changer. Bottom line is if you have bump steer get it corrected and your driving experience will be a great adventure.

[Ajzride]

So awesome that you followed up. I hate to see a thread that should answer my questions and it just died. You get 10 internet points today.

[Bicyclops]

Very nice. As you no doubt concluded, the geometry of the rack and lower arm is all wrong. After a string alignment, I made a jig to measure bumpsteer and used a Baer kit to adjust it. I was able to reduce but not entirely eliminate bumpsteer at all compressions. I did all this during the build and so don't know how it would have driven, but I find it to be very predictable. It tracks well in hard corners with bumps and at high speeds. Your solution is much more comprehensive for sure. Getting the pivot points to line up eliminates most of the BS without the bandaids that I put on it.

Ed