View Full Version : Rear control arms-long mounting bolt
frankc5r
09-22-2016, 10:13 PM
Another question for the more experienced.
Trying to remove the lower links from upright and the long bolt is proving difficult. Car has seen some weather in its life and the bolt is pretty
bound up. Used various penetrating oil so far with out much luck putting a disposable nut on bolt and giving it a whack has not done anything.
Letting it soak overnight. Did others have to use heat or ??
Thanks for any replies.
Frank
Hindsight
09-22-2016, 10:48 PM
Its a common problem. Try acetone mixed with ATF as a penetrating oil. If that fails, add heat.
NBinSD
09-23-2016, 12:17 AM
Put a six foot pipe over the end of your breaker bar and add leverage.
Bob_n_Cincy
09-23-2016, 12:27 AM
Sometimes you just need a longer pipe.
58908
I use my Floor Jack handle
I've broken a high quality breaker bar on this project.
Bob
Frank818
09-23-2016, 07:06 AM
Can an impact gun be used?
frankc5r
09-23-2016, 07:56 AM
I have tried atf/acetone and impact. Trying heat next. Thanks for suggestions.
mistasherm
09-23-2016, 08:06 AM
I had an issue with one of mine and soaked it in PB Blaster and hit it with the strongest impact the hobby shop had and that worked.
Hindsight
09-23-2016, 08:17 AM
If you dont have a cheater pipe, the most readily available are metal water pipes from Home Depot. The ends are threaded with pipe thread and usually capped with orange platic. I think 1" or 1.5" is what I bought. You can get them in various lengths. Mine is 4'. In plumbing section.
UnhipPopano
09-23-2016, 08:35 AM
If the above do not work, hit it with the biggest sledge hammer you can find. If it breaks, then it needed replacing anyway.
tgf05354
09-23-2016, 10:05 AM
Known to be difficult. I was successful with an impact hammer to get the bolt out of the upright and then used my 12 ton press to get the remaining arm off of the bolt.
brian b 36
09-23-2016, 11:42 AM
I own a salvage yard and we have a trick but you need a air chisel we have gotten every one of so far pm me and I will give you my n# and call you explain how to do it brian
I was not able to get mine free with an impact or cheater bar although the I was able to remove the nut. I was able to cut off the bolt head with a grinder and cutoff wheel. Then reinstalled the nut. Tightening the nut broke the bolt free and pulled the bolt loose. I should also add. I think the new bolts have a high percentage of precious metals....I think that is why they are so expensive!:p
Harley818
11-01-2016, 01:45 PM
I had to reapply the penetrating oil and let it pool around the bolt from the open side multiple times. Each time I pulled away the sludge and scraped away flaking rust bits.
Once I cut off the bolt head I had to try a press both directions, multiple times. Pounded on it while it was under pressure. Finally gave way.
You need patience, and persistence. If it doesn't come one day... it will the next, or the next......
Good luck.
mikeb75
11-01-2016, 03:15 PM
Left 'em for dead... hope yours are in better shape :|
60365
And we used a few bottles of propane/MAPP during the disassembly heat was a must.
ben1272
11-01-2016, 05:07 PM
Left 'em for dead... hope yours are in better shape :|
60365
And we used a few bottles of propane/MAPP during the disassembly heat was a must.
Mine looked just like this. I chiseled away all the loose rust scale that I could, which freed up some room to move, then wailed on it with a hammer. Putting a nut on it so you dont mushroom to the point of binding in the upright is advisable. You can get it out, but it was a pain. PB Blaster, mapp gas, big hammer, all played an important role. Upright looks great now all cleaned up with a new bolt from Subaru!
If you dont have a pneumatic needle de-scaler, I'd get one. It made short work of cleaning up nasty rusty components, like the uprights. http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-air-needle-scaler-96997.html
60370
This upright looked like yours at the end of its first life!