Coolant leak.......Where from?

[dougkirkbride]

I have a slow coolant leak problem. The only time I notice anything on the ground is when I go into to drive it the day or 2 after I have driven it before. It doesn't appear to leak if sitting in one spot. I had the car on my hoist and it appeared to have come from somewhere in-front of the oil pan, but nothing appeared wet so I really couldn't tell where it was coming from. I even thought it was the Wayne's mod I did for the overflow but I felt that area and it appeared dry. My donar motor did not leak before I pulled it from the running car. I changed the timing belt, put a high flow water pump in and replaced one of the short hoses (out of 2) that goes to the water pump. I am going to try again to see where its coming from, but that little boxer is really packed in there. just wondering if any others have experienced any coolant leaks coming from the motor?

[K3LAG]

I had a leak that appeared to come from the water pump area. Turned out one of the clamps on the U hose on the heater lines was a little loose and the coolant was following the line back to that area.

Larry

[longislandwrx]

wrap the engine tightly in a white towel and then check back a day later and see where your spot is.

[wleehendrick]

wrap the engine tightly in a white towel and then check back a day later and see where your spot is.

That could be taken sooo out of context!

[myjones]

I had a slow coolant leak on a mopar that was very hard to find. Turned out it was leaking between the layers on a MLS head gasket at the front of the head. Then it would follow the edge of that gasket down and back 2/3 of the way along then trickle down the side of the block close to the back of the engine. Most of the coolant was cooked away by heat rising from the headers so no spot ever showed up on the ground anywhere, just that slow maddening loss of coolant volume. The coolant dye and a UV light made it easy to spot on the first try. The cause in my case was a decked block that was not also decked for the intake so it eventually 15K miles later raised the front corner of the head just enough to ease off the multi layer gasket at the water passage point so it seeped out between the layers. Buy the dye and the UV light and you should find a trail to follow to the leak.
DB

[tmoretta]

The subie boxer motors have a plethora of external water hoses and tubes. When I re-assemble my 2.0 motor after rebuild I am hoping to source some better quality clamps that don't require constant re-tightening and adjusting. Any recomm.?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The subie boxer motors have a plethora of external water hoses and tubes. When I re-assemble my 2.0 motor after rebuild I am hoping to source some better quality clamps that don't require constant re-tightening and adjusting. Any recomm.?

I switched all my hose clamps after experiencing mutable leaks after 3 to 6 months of driving.
Then went with this type and they are great. I also have a pliers made for these and a cable tool for them. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Rotor-Clip-CTB-42ST-Constant-Tension/dp/B005EMZYWS/ref=lp_3445320011_1_13?srs=3445320011&ie=UTF8&qid=1474146782&sr=8-13

58698

You will need about 6 different sizes.
Bob