mikeb75
09-04-2016, 07:36 PM
Starting to rough in my 'final' homebrew alignment before inspection.
My build is using the Godspeed lateral link and trailing arm kit, so there is some extra work to be done setting the track width front to rear. Hoping someone with more experience can sanity check my technique and results:
I started by suspending a string parallel to the chassis rail on the drives side. Once I had this relatively good (as close as I could get, front was easy, rear is harder to get a measurement from the edge of the rail) I measured the offsets from the string to the center nut of the axel. I feel the front is the limiting factor since it's defined by the lower control arm and mounting points used. The rear is the issue since adjustment of the lateral links affects how far the knuckle is pushed out.
Working front to back on the drivers side I was able to get the axle nuts within 3/16" of each other, with the rear track being wider than the front. The passenger side is causing more trouble -sitting at 1/4" but the upper link ran out of adjustment at +2* camber. I have to widen the passenger rear track slightly to get the camber to -1*, I imagine it will be another 1/4" out to get there and have some room left in the upper link for further adjustment.
After setting the drivers track I squared up the rear toe then went to the front and set toe and maxed out the caster (5*) and camber -1*. Stalled out on passenger when I ran out of adjuster, so started looking for information about good/bad having a wider track in the rear.
Really, my question is how are people setting their front to rear track widths? Squared or Staggered? I plan to try to even out the passenger and drivers rear differences. Right now I'm running the same width tires front and rear (this will change eventually), but is that even a concern when setting the track?
Thanks all!
My build is using the Godspeed lateral link and trailing arm kit, so there is some extra work to be done setting the track width front to rear. Hoping someone with more experience can sanity check my technique and results:
I started by suspending a string parallel to the chassis rail on the drives side. Once I had this relatively good (as close as I could get, front was easy, rear is harder to get a measurement from the edge of the rail) I measured the offsets from the string to the center nut of the axel. I feel the front is the limiting factor since it's defined by the lower control arm and mounting points used. The rear is the issue since adjustment of the lateral links affects how far the knuckle is pushed out.
Working front to back on the drivers side I was able to get the axle nuts within 3/16" of each other, with the rear track being wider than the front. The passenger side is causing more trouble -sitting at 1/4" but the upper link ran out of adjustment at +2* camber. I have to widen the passenger rear track slightly to get the camber to -1*, I imagine it will be another 1/4" out to get there and have some room left in the upper link for further adjustment.
After setting the drivers track I squared up the rear toe then went to the front and set toe and maxed out the caster (5*) and camber -1*. Stalled out on passenger when I ran out of adjuster, so started looking for information about good/bad having a wider track in the rear.
Really, my question is how are people setting their front to rear track widths? Squared or Staggered? I plan to try to even out the passenger and drivers rear differences. Right now I'm running the same width tires front and rear (this will change eventually), but is that even a concern when setting the track?
Thanks all!