Wareaglescott's Coyote build thread - INDEX ADDED TO POST #1 [Archive]

wareaglescott

06-21-2016, 08:20 AM

I am going to do this build thread from a beginners perspective. I have absolutely zero experience doing anything like this. There are a lot of excellent build threads by very competent builders. Hopefully one from a beginner will be somewhat beneficial to people unsure if they can do it or not.

I am Expecting delivery of my MK4 kit next week. Very excited to get started.
My plan is for a reliable street cruiser. Don't really have any plans to track the car although you never know. I wasn't really planning to order quite yet but wanted to take advantage of the 50% sale on options. I have zero experience with a project of this magnitude. I have always been a car guy but have never built anything. Looking forward to the challenges this project will present. My job as an airline pilot provides me with a nice amount of spare time to devote to this project. I have spent a couple months researching and have learned a ton of information from this forum.

I am going for somewhat of a non traditional look. I love blue cars, in fact my last 5 have been blue including two I currently own but I wanted to go with something a little different. I am 6'3 and found the high back Kirkey seats fit me the best. Having those led me to think with the seat backs extending above the body I would also like the dual roll bars. I found an artist that does car drawings for a living. I sent him all my ideas and my color thoughts and he drew me up a concept so I could verify I liked the looks of it. Hopefully I can figure out how to insert the picture below. (BTW this guy is amazing with his drawings. I will happily pass on his contact info. Unsure of forum rules about posting it but message me if you want a drawing of your car.)

My build plan is as follows:
MK4 complete kit
IRS
Coyote
TKO600

Options I ordered:
Powder coated chassis
body cut outs
high back kirkey seats
Coyote power steering kit
17" Halibrand replica wheels
Stainless steel front and rear bumpers
Stainless steel side exhaust
wind wings
sun visors
heater
Front and rear sway bars
Dual chrome roll bars
leather steering wheel
IRS center section with 3.55
Front and Rear Wilwood brake option

My work space consists of a 1 car garage that is 2 cars deep in my basement. Should have adequate space and didn't get in trouble telling the wife I needed her garage space so that was a plus! I have been busy getting most of the tools and supplies I needed. Also built a frame dolley and body buck. I have an additional storage spot for the body buck so I did not do an elevated one to fit over the chassis. Not much else to do at this point but wait for delivery. Interestingly I have already received the front and rear brake kits. Thought that was interesting since I have seen numerous build threads where people were waiting on those for a while.

There is no way I could do this without all the information I have learned from the forum. I encourage all comments and suggestions to my thread and appreciate everyones input. Thanks

INSTGRAM - @scottscobra

EDIT 3/4/2017
Here is an index I am adding. Will continue to add to it as I go. Hopefully this will help people looking for a particular subject matter:

13 - inventory
18 - removing panels
44 - drivers side front footbox fill panel
48 - front LCA
51 - powder coat items
59 - front suspension
61 - front brakes
64 - irs prep
66 - rear wheel studs
71 - irs install
74 - irs control arms
77 - finish irs/ rear brakes
85 - heat shield
87 - pedal box install/ notch clutch pedal
106 - firewall support piece
110 - triple reservoir/ irs vent
113 - battery tray/ radiator mount
117 - footbox aluminum
119 - footbox heat/sound insulation
120 - fan shroud/ battery tray/ Ebrake cables
123 - fuel pump/ tank install
124 - Coyote engine lift plates
125 - homemade fuel vent filter
126 - oil pan change
127 - Alternator and power steering pump install
128 - clutch and transmission install
134 - wheels
143 - fuel regulator
148 - rolling chassis
150 - coyote clutch safety switches (hydrualic clutch)
151 - accel pedal/ fuse box
152 - brake lines
156 - cockpit aluminum
157 - transmission spacers/ engine install
160 - driveshaft/ driveshaft safety loop
166 - ebrake cable mod/ reinstall proper driveshaft
170 - transmission fluid
175 - coyote pcm
184 - brake bleeding
187 - rear harness/ trunk and cockpit aluminum/ clutch bleeding
193 - breeze quick disconnect steering wheel mod
200 - power steering (first lines, replaced later)
204 - coyote harness install
207 - heat shield and power wiring
208 - engine ground
210 - tach wiring/ coyote harness
213 - power steering revised lines
214 - coolant system
217 - removable dash
221 - horns
222 - engine complete/ dash prep
223 - ride height
224 - FIRST START!!
234 - fire extinguisher/ roll bar
240 - seat harness install
243 - alignment and first go cart
250 - weatherpacks for head lights/tail lights
258 - coyote pcm update code P0116
259 - seat heaters
262 - kirkey seat mounts/ lumbar supports and seat heaters
263 - drivers footbox
264 - cockpit heat and sound shield
265 - coyote vacuum system mod/ removable transmission tunnel
270 - brake line rub
272 - transmission tunnel covering
276 - 278 kirkey seat mounting/ carpet
282 - interior
289 - trunk carpet/ phone charger
291 - pedal box and exhaust pipe temps
297 - interior work
298 - drivers footbox panels
301 - wheel centers
302 - wheel and splash guards
311 - engine dress up
316 - paint samples
322 - door strap dye - dye to black
327 - trunk kit
350 - fuel pump failure
356 - license plate mod
359 - rear bumper couplers
376 - replacing coyote wiring harness
394 - knock offs painted / air intake shroud
401- nomex radiator protector
404 - final color selection
409 - painted engine cover
417 - deconstruct and ship to Whitby for body install
475 - wind wings with Breeze side mirrors and sun visors
423-522 Car is at Whitby. Lots of pictures of the paint process
531 - Whitby Motorcars review
540 - final assembly under door aluminum, seat install, taillights
541 - final assembly - interior door panels
551 - final assembly - license plate light, rear bumper, front splash guards, side pipes and heat shields
554 - final assembly - front bumper, radiator aluminum, brake duct mesh, visors, mirrors and wind wings, manual windshield wiper
573 - graduation pics
574 - hindsight post - lessons learned and tips with reference to post numbers
587 - finishing the back side of the Kirkey high back seats
583 & 596 - under door interior aluminum trim finish pieces
609 - 500 mile update
620 - tire stickers
634 - coyote custom pcm tune
646 - new side pipes with flow master slimline mufflers install
647 - resulting sound testing video with the new vs old pipes
654 - additional side pipe support installation
663 - corner balancing
670 - IRS driveshaft bolt Tech update from FFR
675 - coyote fuel mileage (2500 miles in)
712 - ceramic coating
720 - stripe width diagram
723 - ceramic coating review

55183

jceckard

06-21-2016, 09:42 AM

You have just described exactly what I want to build. Please post often with many pictures. :)

2bking

06-21-2016, 12:21 PM

Congratulations and welcome to the fun of building it yourself. I like the colors. Keep us posted with lots of pictures.

wareaglescott

06-22-2016, 06:42 AM

Messing around and trying to figure out how to post pics in my thread. Hopefully the concept drawing, frame cart, and body buck will show up below! I came across David Hodgkins post about how to post pics in the welcomes and intros sections. Thanks David!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55215&d=1466595325

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55213&d=1466595207

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55214&d=1466595228

TXeverydayDad

06-23-2016, 12:29 AM

Congrats on your purchase. Colors look good! Will enjoy following your build

wareaglescott

06-23-2016, 08:55 PM

Got the call from the Stewart Transportation driver. My kit is loaded up. He will be making stops in Ohio, Indiana, and Texas before getting to me in Alabama. Tentatively scheduled for next Wednesday. I can't wait!

wareaglescott

06-24-2016, 01:12 PM

Well this is about the most pitiful build update possible...but so far the only parts I have are the front and rear brakes and I had to do something. Attached the hats to the rotors. Made sure the torque specification was inch/lbs and NOT ft/lbs. Did find a cheap and adequate click type torque wrench with a range of 80-200 inch/lbs at Harbor Freight for about $24. Can't imagine I will use that tool much in the future but I do like acquiring tools!

Jazzman

06-27-2016, 02:06 AM

And so it begins! At least you are smarter than someone I know! :rolleyes: You caught that inch pounds thing the first time. Of course I am going to end up with a nice matching Wilwood rotor hat wall clock! Looking forward to following your build. Hope your car comes this week.

wareaglescott

06-29-2016, 04:29 AM

I was very excited the Stewart transportation truck showed up yesterday. I couldn't be more pleased with the delivery process. The driver Jim was great, the communication throughout the process from order to drop off was great. Would highly recommend Stewart if you are considering them. I ordered the last week of May and had delivery June 28. Quicker than expected.

After unloading and getting everything in my workshop it was time to start inventory. My wife enjoyed helping check off parts as I told her what they were. We had numerous interruptions as neighbors had to stop by and see what I had been talking about for a few months. That was fun to tell them about it and show them the kit. Hope to finish inventory today and then get to the real fun!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55538&d=1467191977

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55537&d=1467191963

Jazzman

06-29-2016, 08:40 AM

Fantastic!! Now the fun really begins.

Once the inventory is done you may find you're missing one or two parts!! Don't worry, happens to all of us. When it's time to take the body off and remove the aluminum panels, work slowly and take lots of photos from different angles. You'll be surprised how you might forget how tab A intersects with slot B. Separate your panels into two piles: powder coated and not powder coated. Or you could just be nuts like me and PC all of them.

Enjoy the build. It is a great ride!!

WIS89

06-29-2016, 10:09 AM

wareaglescott

06-29-2016, 02:55 PM

Scott-

Congratulations! That day was better than Christmas for me. Good luck with your build. I like your plan, and look forward to seeing your progress.

By the way, did you do your concept drawing? It looks very cool, and I think those colors are terrific.

I enjoyed seeing your delivery, and sharing your excitement! Best of luck!

Regards,

Steve

The concept drawing was done by an artist in Italy I found on Instagram. The guy draws cars for a living and really does an amazing job. The order and communication with him was very easy. He is Italian but ships world wide. I don't believe I can post his name here due to forum rules but if you message me I would be happy to share his information. I highly recommend him. He will do any custom car drawing you want.

wareaglescott

06-30-2016, 05:02 AM

Spent most the day yesterday doing inventory. I am excited to get started on the real work now. Will get the body off today and start progressing.

FFR did a pretty solid job packing all those parts up. Ultimately I ended up with 6 small parts/pieces missing. I have sent them the list.
Currently I have 19 items on back order. Some items are fuel cap, driveshaft adapter, both sway bars, shifter handle, multiple power steering components and the coyote fitment kit.

They did send me the wrong seats. I'm sure that will be corrected. I ordered the high back Kirkey seats and received the low back ones.

Keep in mind I am a complete novice on this sort of project. One thing that surprised me was the lack of part numbers on various pieces. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what was what. I'm sure someone experienced could have done inventory much quicker. Was not really a problem. Just different that I expected.

I do have one question. I have submitted it to FFR but figure someone here can answer.
I ordered 14932 polished stainless side pipes. The finish on them certainly is not the polished look I thought I was getting. Not sure if I got the wrong ones sent or if I just had an incorrect perception of what polished stainless was?? I was thinking they would match the roll bars.
Here is a pic. Did I get the wrong ones?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55585&d=1467280383

Duke

06-30-2016, 06:42 AM

yup, wrong ones.

edwardb

06-30-2016, 07:02 AM

yup, wrong ones.

x2. Those are the plain steel pipes. I promise the SS ones look different than that. ;)

wareaglescott

06-30-2016, 07:32 AM

Thanks for verifying Duke and Paul!
Figures two of the biggest boxes I have will need to be returned! haha

Yama-Bro

06-30-2016, 11:24 AM

That artist concept is really nice. Good luck on your build!

wareaglescott

06-30-2016, 06:31 PM

Finally layed hands on the car today. It was great to do something other than inventory parts. FFR did verify they sent the wrong exhaust pipes so they are sending those and the Kirkey high back seats.

Had a neighbor come help me get the body on the buck. Not sure if my design or execution was lacking on the construction of the buck but after putting the body on there the back seemed to sag just a bit. I made some stands out of 2x4 and propped one on each side. Seems all good now.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55587&d=1467328618

Then I started removing the aluminum panels. I have to figure out which ones I would like to powder coat. I decided to drill them as I go so it is pretty slow going getting them off. Got about 6 done so far.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55588&d=1467328632

Couple questions please:
1. Any tips or tricks of the trade on how to mark some of the panels for drilling when the frame tube you are drilling into is not really on the edge of the panel? It is taking me a long time to line up and mark each hole by measuring from a known point. I am clamping the panel in place and then drilling through both the aluminum and tube at one time. Is there a better/easier method?

2. I am taking good notes on how these panels sit in relation to one another. Also been marking the panel number and some other useful information on the panel itself with a sharpie. Of course when they get powder coated or cleaned up those markings will be gone. Is there a good system for keeping up with what panel goes where once you lose the ability to have markings on them?

Thanks for reading and any tips.

Jeff Kleiner

06-30-2016, 07:07 PM

1. Any tips or tricks of the trade on how to mark some of the panels for drilling when the frame tube you are drilling into is not really on the edge of the panel? It is taking me a long time to line up and mark each hole by measuring from a known point. I am clamping the panel in place and then drilling through both the aluminum and tube at one time. Is there a better/easier method?

2. I am taking good notes on how these panels sit in relation to one another. Also been marking the panel number and some other useful information on the panel itself with a sharpie. Of course when they get powder coated or cleaned up those markings will be gone. Is there a good system for keeping up with what panel goes where once you lose the ability to have markings on them?

Thanks for reading and any tips.

#1.
You may need to remove the panels and make some adjustments, trimming &/or minor bending to achieve the best fit. The factory installed screws are just to secure them during shipping and are not intended to indicate precise locations. When you are satisfied with the positioning and fit use your Sharpie to trace the frame members onto the backside of the panels then remove the panel and drill in the center between the lines. After they are drilled put them back on and drill through the panel holes into the frame.

#2.
Photos ;)

Good luck!

Jeff

wareaglescott

06-30-2016, 07:24 PM

Thanks Jeff! Good tip.

edwardb

06-30-2016, 09:53 PM

1. I do it exactly as Jeff described. X2 on being careful with the locations of the panels as shipped. They may not be exactly where you want them.

2. Pictures, yes. Also the FF build manual does a good job showing the proper sequence of installing the panels for each of the various areas, resulting in the proper overlaps, etc. The one exception I take to their instructions, and it's pretty widely discussed, is do the trunk floor before the rear cockpit wall. Otherwise you very easily could end up with rivet holes you can't reach.

jceckard

07-01-2016, 02:05 PM

Is there a good system for keeping up with what panel goes where once you lose the ability to have markings on them?

Just a thought... would it work to use number punches to punch a "part number" into each panel (in an inconspicuous place of course)? The only trick would be if the powder coat fills the punched number too much and you can no longer read it. You could use binary numbers. That would be easy to read after powder coat. (Sorry - engineering nerd talking).

coyobra

07-01-2016, 03:03 PM

I thought of this a while back and was going to go to Harbor Freight this weekend to buy a punch kit. (My kit arrives around the first week in August). I'm not sure what will happen to the numbers after the panel(s) get powder coated. Now, before of purchasing a punch kit, I'm going to visit a few places in my area that do powder coating to get their take on whether it would be a waste of time or a good idea?? I'll update after I find out.

wareaglescott

07-01-2016, 04:07 PM

WIS89

07-01-2016, 04:09 PM

Scott-

I agree with Jeff and Paul on the best way to approach getting your panels prepared, and taking pictures.

I am not sure it makes much sense to punch numbers into the panels. They are sufficiently different that you will not confuse which panel goes where, or confuse you should you need to look them up in order to move forward. I think it is an unnecessary step.

As far as powder coating, I decided to only coat the panels that would be seen. To be frank however, I should have just had all of them powder coated. It wouldn't have been a significantly different cost to me had I done this, and it wouldn't have required me to do multiple trips to the powder coater to have it done. My feeling now, is to simply take all of the aluminum to the powder coater, and have it all done (perhaps not the small odds and ends in one of the boxes) at one time. The modest increase in cost is completely worth it.

It's exciting getting started, isn't it? Good luck this weekend, I hope you are able to get tons done!

Regards,

Steve

edwardb

07-01-2016, 04:24 PM

Just a thought... would it work to use number punches to punch a "part number" into each panel (in an inconspicuous place of course)? The only trick would be if the powder coat fills the punched number too much and you can no longer read it. You could use binary numbers. That would be easy to read after powder coat. (Sorry - engineering nerd talking).

I thought of this a while back and was going to go to Harbor Freight this weekend to buy a punch kit. (My kit arrives around the first week in August). I'm not sure what will happen to the numbers after the panel(s) get powder coated. Now, before of purchasing a punch kit, I'm going to visit a few places in my area that do powder coating to get their take on whether it would be a waste of time or a good idea?? I'll update after I find out.

Don't over think it guys. Between pictures taken during disassembly and the manual it's not that hard. I know the build manual takes a beating from some, and I agree it doesn't have every detail or possibility. But it's much improved from the past and the panel install sequences are pretty clear. The pieces are all quite different and it's virtually impossible to put a part in the wrong location. Most are pretty obvious where they go.

Jeff Kleiner

07-01-2016, 04:32 PM

What edwardb and Steve said; snap a few photos to refer back to (as much to help you remember what overlaps and what tucks as for identification purposes) and move on. No offence intended to anyone in saying this but they are somewhat "idiot proof" :)

Jeff

wareaglescott

07-01-2016, 04:34 PM

Good points Steve, Jeff and Paul. I guess if I can't figure out where the panels go I have no business building the car! Haha
I am very inexperienced with this type of work so this build thread will probably have a lot of easily answered basic questions. Especially in the early stages while I build up a little confidence in what I am doing. Hopefully that will be useful to the other rookies like me that read this!

Having a bunch of family in town this weekend so I don't expect to get much done. Looking forward to showing the family the project though! They are more clueless than me so they will just assume I know what I am talking about. Ha

wareaglescott

07-02-2016, 03:50 PM

I found a couple hours to work today. Still working on drilling and removing panels. It is slow going for me but I think I will be glad to have a lot of the drilling work done ahead of time. The tips I asked for in a previous post are much appreciated. Worked great!

I do have a question about the DS footbox front panel. The kit shipped with this panel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55665&d=1467492191

The build manual indicates part 15142 is left footbox front - wildwood pedals (which I have)
The manual indicates a different part number for another left footbox front pedal.
The resolution of the picture of all the panels is not good enough to notice any distinguishing characteristics.

Could someone please tell me which one is in the above picture?

Thanks

edwardb

07-02-2016, 05:26 PM

The DS panel you have pictured is for a Mustang footbox. It has large holes near the center for the steering column and the master cylinder that mounts on front of the footbox. The DS panel you should be using with a Wilwood pedal box only has a single hole for the steering column. Typically FF ships both panels with the kit. If you didn't get the Wilwood panel, you can call and I'm sure they will send the correct one.

WIS89

07-02-2016, 09:45 PM

wareaglescott

07-03-2016, 04:16 AM

Scott-

Exactly what Paul (EdwardB) said! I am confident that you have the other -- correct -- footbox front. I think FFR ships them all with the one you have on the car. Then, the folks that have the Wilwood upgrade, they simply add it into one of the myriad boxes. I feel confident that you have the correct one.

Keep working hard, and keep the questions coming.

Regards,

Steve

Yep learned something else today. I have all the parts organized in the boxes they came in and layed out on shelves by box number. My plan when I need a part was to find it on the pack list which indicates box number and then go get it. The panel I needed was part 15142. I looked over the pack list 3 times and that part was not listed. I went to box 6a that had all the aluminum panels and it was not in there either. Then I looked in the build manual and saw a note that the panel would be with the pedal box hardware. So I looked and sure enough it was in that box even though it was not listed in the pack list.

Lesson of the day is you may have more parts than listed on the pack list! Look in the actual boxes.

Follow up question:
Now that I am looking more carefully I notice on the list of trunk mounted aluminum it says 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only). Those were not mounted on the frame and I can't find a picture of them in the manual. I do have some unlabeled panels I have not determined what part they are. (I do have the irs option so should have these). Does anyone have a picture of these to help me identify what I'm looking for?

edwardb

07-03-2016, 07:45 AM

Now that I am looking more carefully I notice on the list of trunk mounted aluminum it says 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only). Those were not mounted on the frame and I can't find a picture of them in the manual. I do have some unlabeled panels I have not determined what part they are. (I do have the irs option so should have these). Does anyone have a picture of these to help me identify what I'm looking for?

I checked my inventory list, and 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only) are listed on the mounted components list. But they are lined off indicating not included or delivered. Nothing like that came up in the instructions or during the build, and I'm not sure where they would go if they did. There's nothing about the rear shock towers to block off. I'll bet these may have been used on the older IRS design. But that's only a guess.

wareaglescott

07-03-2016, 07:55 AM

I checked my inventory list, and 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only) are listed on the mounted components list. But they are lined off indicating not included or delivered. Nothing like that came up in the instructions or during the build, and I'm not sure where they would go if they did. There's nothing about the rear shock towers to block off. I'll bet these may have been used on the older IRS design. But that's only a guess.

Thanks Paul. Like yours mine are lined off. Good to know they don't seem to be needed during the build. I will cross that off my list and not worry about them.

wareaglescott

07-04-2016, 05:26 PM

Still working on panel drilling and removal. Looking through the instruction manual I see the logical order they need to be installed in and what tabs need to go behind what panels. Originally I was just taking the panels off that came installed on the frame. Today as I got to the rear cockpit wall I realized to drill some of those I need the other pieces that go around the back of the transmission tunnel and the pieces on the cockpit sides so I can get all the holes drilled correctly through each panel that attaches to each other. When I realized that I started getting the appropriate panels out of the box and adding them in the mix. My reasoning behind this is so I can decided every panel I want powder coated and just take them all in as one load and have them already drilled so they don't get dinged up drilling and installing later. Also, I plan to powder coat the panels black. Right now I am marking on them from the backside where I need to drill at times. Figured once they are black seeing the markings will be more difficult.

Does anyone see any reason why it is a bad idea to pre drill all the panels? I like the idea of having it done and then clean up all the holes and shavings but I want to make sure I am not missing some reason why it would be beneficial to wait.

I am getting anxious to start installing some actual parts! I figure when it comes time to reinstall the panels I will be glad they are done.

Happy 4th everyone!

Jazzman

07-05-2016, 12:27 AM

Pre drilling is a great idea, and for the most part it works great. However, don't be too surprised if things occasionally don't match up quite like they did when you drilled them. Why? Who knows. Gremlins, moon phases, sea level, global warming, political correctness, I don't know. It will all work out. Keep doing the drilling. You are indeed wise to have everything powder coated at the same time.

Jeff Kleiner

07-05-2016, 05:18 AM

Does anyone see any reason why it is a bad idea to pre drill all the panels? I like the idea of having it done and then clean up all the holes and shavings but I want to make sure I am not missing some reason why it would be beneficial to wait.

Drilling prior to coating is the preferred method.

Carry on!

Jeff

Jazzman

07-06-2016, 02:08 AM

Drilling prior to coating is the preferred method.

Carry on!

Jeff

That's what I like about Jeff: a man of great wisdom and few words!!

Garry Bopp

07-06-2016, 03:24 PM

Scott,

I realize this is kind of off topic but I wanted to check in with you.

Wow, when you make up your mind, things get done! Glad to see you already have your kit and are working on it. I've put almost 2,000 miles on my car in the last month, mostly on the Power Tour, but also in and around Columbus, OH for the London Cobra Show. Just got home last week from the 2 track days at Mid Ohio road course. Car ran great and lots of compliments on the paint job. Yesterday, I drove the car over to Rodfathers Collision in Greensboro, GA (they painted the car). They were thrilled to see the car and took lots of pics. Also, took the car over to Golden Touch Upholstery in Conyers ... they did the carpet installation. More pics!

Garry

wareaglescott

07-07-2016, 12:29 PM

Update - in the last week I have probably drilled more holes that the previous 42 years of my life! HA
Almost done drilling and removing panels. Very excited to actually start putting parts back on. I took a break to daydream about driving today!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55855&d=1467912169

Fred Flintstone style feet on the ground. Having a great time with this build.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55856&d=1467912179

wareaglescott

07-07-2016, 02:51 PM

When I said I was inexperienced I wasn't joking. I have never riveted anything before. Bought the gun, watched demos on you tube. I cant find a picture of what the back should look like. Front looks good and it seems secure. Does this look correct from the back? I guess I was expecting it to look more compressed or something. Thanks for the responses.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55858&d=1467920862http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55859&d=1467920875

RoadRacer

07-07-2016, 04:15 PM

That's what you'd expect :)

wareaglescott

07-08-2016, 06:25 PM

It is small but it feels like the first milestone has been achieved. I finally got all the panels drilled and off the frame. Ready for the buildup to begin. Also took the F panels to the powder coater today to try him out. Decided on going with black for those. Plan to take the rest of the panels next week when I pick up the F panels. I probably pre-drilled about 95% of the holes. Left a few where I thought fit might be tight and will drill those when I am installing.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55885&d=1468020107

wareaglescott

07-09-2016, 09:35 AM

Learned a good tip from Jazzman.
If you are using a hydraulic clutch you can use the small fill panel to cover the hole on the front of the drivers side footbox prior to powder coating. This area sits flat against the frame metal directly behind it. If you put a rivet in there the back of the rivet will interfere with the panels ability to sit flat. On the piece that causes the interference just drill an oversized hole and allow the rivet back to fit in that and then the panel will sit correctly. 5 of the 6 precut holes will have the interference issue.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55911&d=1468074469
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55912&d=1468074480

Just barely got that complete and work called me to come in so that will be it for today.

Jazzman

07-10-2016, 02:17 AM

I also covered the other large hole at the top of this panel. I sure didn't need that much space to run this one set of wires.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51542&d=1458024063

I ended up drilling just one hole for all three of the reservoir lines.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55421&d=1466916004

unrealmach1

07-10-2016, 02:43 PM

Really like the color scheme in your artist concept. Any chance I could pm you to get the contact info? I would appreciate it. Thanks.

wareaglescott

07-10-2016, 04:14 PM

Really like the color scheme in your artist concept. Any chance I could pm you to get the contact info? I would appreciate it. Thanks.
yes i will pm you the info

wareaglescott

07-10-2016, 04:25 PM

Limited time to work today but I did get the LCAs on. Felt good to actually put a part on the car instead of just taking panels off! No real issues. Like everyone else I had to clear the powder coating out of the bolt holes to get the bolt in. Mine required one washer on each of the aft mounts. The forward mounts had a little extra room but not enough to fit a washer in there. I ended up moving the tabs slightly. From reading other build threads that seemed like the way to handle that. As a complete novice I was really not sure if any space in there was acceptable. I torqued the bolts down to the specified 110 ft/lbs. My F panels are at the powder coater until about Wednesday. Don't think it should be a problem doing this step without them.

(I had previously put some blue tape on the frame rails to prevent me from dinging them up)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55963&d=1468184881
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55964&d=1468184893

Now for my rookie questions if anyone can help please:
1. I have never used a grease gun or fitting. I have the gun. How do you know when you have enough in there? Do you just fill until it starts coming out?
2. When is the appropriate time to put the lubricant in? As you go through the build or wait until the end and do them all then?

Thanks for reading and commenting!

edwardb

07-10-2016, 11:34 PM

Now for my rookie questions if anyone can help please:
1. I have never used a grease gun or fitting. I have the gun. How do you know when you have enough in there? Do you just fill until it starts coming out?
2. When is the appropriate time to put the lubricant in? As you go through the build or wait until the end and do them all then?

1. Depends on the kind of joint. For ones like these on your front LCA's yes, you should see it start coming out around the ends. Don't go crazy, but you want to make sure grease has penetrated all the way through. There was a problem in the past with these not accepting grease very well. But there are grooves in the bushings and you should see the grease flow out. You'll have more like this on the IRS arms and similar on the front UCA's. For joints with boots, like the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends, pump the grease until you see the boot puff out just a little and stop. You don't want to blow the seal of the boots with too much grease.

2. For the front and rear UCA's and LCA's, I like to grease them up during initial assembly. Makes sure the grease is flowing properly plus makes them a bit easier to install. Just a little more messy.

wareaglescott

07-11-2016, 08:21 PM

Didn't get much actual work done on the car today. I did take 52 aluminum panels and 23 other parts to the powder coater. Should have all that back by the end of the week. For 75 pieces I felt good about the price.
I also assembled my engine hoist because the boxes were starting to get in my way. So now I can fold that up and get it out of the way in the corner. Went with the Harbour Freight 2 ton hoist. Only $150 after a 25% off coupon. Hopefully the quality will be good for my limited use.

Has anyone had their brake calipers powder coated an alternate color? I am thinking about doing orange to match my stripe. I also ordered orange seat belts. I think the color accent will look good. I have the front and rear Wilwood brake upgrade. I took a caliper to the powder coater and he indicated it would be about $300 to do the 4 plus the e-brake. That includes the custom order on the powder color. I would have to disassemble them and since they were already powder coated he said he would want to take them all the way down to bare metal and start over so he could ensure top quality. Gonna have to think on that one. Not sure it is worth $300 to me. Also I am not sure how the Wilwood logo is applied so I might end up with just all orange with no writing. Will have to look into that further.

wareaglescott

07-13-2016, 05:55 AM

Was quite impressed with my powder coater. He had 75 pieces for a total of 30 hours and called me and said they were done! He did an excellent job. I ended up going with all black. I had to lay them all out for inventory in the basement. Got them cleaned back up before the wife noticed! haha It was about a 2 hour round trip to get them so that ate up most my work time available yesterday.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56088&d=1468406671

I was excited to permanently mount the F panels. EdwardB's build thread post #9 had a great tip about cutting the upper corner out of the panel for future wiring and using rivet nuts to mount the front splash guards to the back lip of the F panel thus making them removable. I know it wasn't time to mount the splash guards but being the first time I ever used a rivet nut I decided to go ahead and attach it for a minute just to see how it worked out. That was a great tip. Thanks Paul! Will work more on the front suspension today.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56089&d=1468406692

stack

07-13-2016, 07:23 AM

Misterfubar

07-13-2016, 07:49 AM

Your build sheet looks very similar to what I'm planning. Looks great so far and I love the Artist's concept.

wareaglescott

07-13-2016, 08:00 AM

How much did he charge for the powder coating. Doing the same thing gloss black all panels both sides

stack

I paid $800 cash for the 75 pieces. He wanted $1000 but when I balked at that and offered cash I got $200 knocked off. I was pretty pleased with that.

wareaglescott

07-13-2016, 08:02 AM

Your build sheet looks very similar to what I'm planning. Looks great so far and I love the Artist's concept.

Thanks. That guy can really draw. I am happy to pass on his contact info if you are interested. I enjoy looking at the framed drawing on my office wall as I sit here spending money ordering parts left and right! haha

WIS89

07-13-2016, 09:20 AM

wareaglescott

07-13-2016, 09:36 AM

Scott-

Panels look great! I also like Cam's jersey on your wall; does he know you took it? HA

I have to confess, I wasn't expecting your powder coat to be quite that high, but he did nice work, and turned it around quickly.

You are moving along at a nice clip. I have enjoyed following along.

Regards,

Steve

Steve,
I have never had anything powder coated before so I did not know what to expect on price. I had seen other comments about guys paying about 650 for the panels. In addition to the panels I had 23 other pieces listed in the front of the manual that they recommended finishing. Obviously I could have just spray painted them for cheaper. My main obstacle was living in a small town there was one guy that did coating. He had a horrible reputation. The first good review I could find was for a guy 45 minutes away. Other than him I was looking at 1.5-2 hours each way to find someone in Atlanta or Birmingham. Maybe I paid a little high due to lack of options. I was just feeling good I didn't pay the $1000. haha

edwardb

07-13-2016, 01:11 PM

Your panels look great! Based on what others have posted, the price you paid (after negotiation...) is about the going rate for a complete set plus other misc stuff. I've had two different local places do my builds, and they were in that range as well. You won't regret having all the panels done. Makes a really nice finished product. Plus hard to beat the long term durability of powder coat.

wareaglescott

07-13-2016, 05:44 PM

I continued working on the front end today. Learned a couple of points that may be useful to my fellow newbie. These points will be painfully obvious to the experienced builder. Hopefully someone with limited to no experience like me will benefit from my thread. I think when I am done I should write a book called "Cobra building for dummies"! I could stand to have an instruction manual that spells out every small detail of the build. I would prefer directions that are about 3 times more specific than the build manual! haha

1. You will need multiple torque wrenches and some other wrenches of odd sizes - I had a 50 to 250 lb torque wrench and a small inch/lb torque wrench previously. Figured that would have me covered. Then came across a need for a 40 lb torque. Off to home depot for a 20-100 lb wrench. Shortly after I got home I realized I needed a 1 1/8 wrench to make adjustments on the upper control arms. Back to HD. Good thing it is only 5 minutes away. I have a pretty complete set of tools. I am finding early in this project I am needing a lot of sockets and wrenches in larger sizes than I previously had.

2. Castle nuts on ball joints in front suspension - for the lower ball joint castle nut there is a spacer. As you can see in the first picture there is a rounded inner portion on one side and the other side is completely flat. The rounded edge needs to be on the bottom. I did not realize it was not flat on both sides and unknowingly put it on upside down at first. If you do this it will not seat correctly and there will be a problem getting the cotter pin hole to line up with the castle nut properly. I was cranking down as hard as I could without it lining up and if I backed it up to line up it was totally loose. So watch the orientation when you put it on. I did a lot of reading prior to this project and can't remember hearing this tip.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56109&d=1468447746
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56107&d=1468447721

I have found working on the front suspension the first side takes me about 5 times as long as the second side when I have it all figured out! I did manage to get most of the front suspension done. I have not tightened the lower shock mount bolt yet because I believe the front sway bar will also connect with that bolt and it is still on backorder. I also could not get the leverage to get the 250lb of torque on the hub nut. I think I may need to wait until the car is on the ground for that.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56110&d=1468447773

I will probably start on the front brakes tomorrow. I have the wilwood option with the black powder coat. I was hoping to powder coat the calipers orange to mount my stripe. Wilwood will sell a custom color caliper but for the front and back it was going to be about $2000 which I found ridiculous. My other option is to take my black calipers and have them powder coated locally. That was going to be about $300. The problem with that is there is no way to recreate the "wildwood" writing on the caliper and it would just be solid orange. I kind of like the writing so may just end up doing the local powder coating at a later date if I decide I need the color accent.

If anyone sees any other errors in my pictures please point them out!

unrealmach1

07-13-2016, 08:01 PM

Your build is looking great! The powder coat looks really nice.

wareaglescott

07-14-2016, 05:03 PM

Did the front brakes today. I got the wilwood option.
They went in relatively smoothly.
A couple points:
1. The shims that go to the caliper to center it up on the disk are quite thin. In fact the difference between the two are .019". The directions talk about using various combinations to center up the caliper on the disc. How anyone can accurately eyeball or measure .019" is beyond me. I read other build threads that said they used 2 of the larger ones and I followed suit and did that as well. Best I could tell it was very accurately centered but I am not sure a .019" difference would have mattered much. Maybe somebody that knows more about brakes could comment on that.

2. If you drop the caliper accidentally and it hits your ankle bone before hitting the garage floor it will slow down enough not to damage the powder coat when it does hit the floor!! Ouch! I might be limping for a day or two but the caliper looks nice and shiny.

Guess I will get to start on the IRS the next build session.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56151&d=1468533336

WIS89

07-14-2016, 09:01 PM

wareaglescott

07-15-2016, 05:02 AM

Scott-

I hope you were not offended by my powder coat price comment. I didn't mean to suggest you shouldn't have it done, or that the price was unreasonable; just that I didn't expect it to cost that much. A sticker shock comment, not a criticism! As I mentioned earlier, I think he did a nice job.

On your brake caliper color change. Have you considered trying a Wilwood decal to put on the orange caliper? I don't know if they are available, but a sign shop could likely get you a set for a fair price. It might be a reasonable solution.

Thanks for all your details, I have enjoyed following along.

Regards,

Steve

No worries Steve. No offense taken.

On the caliper decals I did call Wilwood and see if they had some available. They do not. That led me to discuss with them custom color ordering. When I realized that would be close to $2000 I was suddenly much happier with the black ones!

Good thought about having a sign shop making them locally. If I did that I could have whatever I want made up and could possibly do something custom other than just "wilwood". Another issue is I have not selected the actual colors of the car yet other than gray and orange. Need to fine tune what the actual color of the orange will be. At this point I think I am happy with the black for now. Maybe after completion this will be a good mod to go back and revisit. They always say these cars are never actually done right! Haha

Thanks for reading the thread. I enjoy doing the updates. I have 2 previous builders that have helped me immensely with their build threads and extra communications so if anyone can benefit from anything I write that would be great!

wareaglescott

07-15-2016, 08:20 AM

This morning I am going to start work on the IRS center section. I ordered everything for the rear end from factory five. This is how it came. I am going to clean it up and apply a coat of POR-15. It looks to have just a small amount of surface rust forming. While I was thinking about the center section I went ahead and ordered the vent pieces I will need that I learned about in EdwardB and Jazzmans threads.
The part numbers are FR3Z-4A058-A & 2L1Z-4022-BA. I just goggled the part numbers and found multiple places that were selling them. I tried about 3 and found the one that had the cheapest shipping for my location and went with them.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56199&d=1468588023

While I was spending money I also decided to go ahead and order the CNC 1483 Triple Master Aluminum Remote Resevoir from Car Shop Inc.
I read that the CNC 1459A pressure bleeder lid is a nice compliment to this and makes bleeding quite simple. They were out of stock on these and I have never bleed any brake/hydraulic clutches before so I think I will just wait on that part and if the time comes I determine it would be beneficial I will look again.

stack

07-15-2016, 04:53 PM

wareaglescott

07-15-2016, 05:02 PM

Well The Por15 went on the rear differential very nicely. Very pleased how that turned out. I am going to let it dry more overnight and hope to tackle the install next time.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56236&d=1468618964

I found a great Por15 starter kit on Amazon. It had small bottles of the cleaner/degreaser and metal prep. Also had a bristle and foam paint brush as well as a pair of gloves and a 4 oz can of POR15. The entire kit was only a couple dollars more than just the 4oz can alone. It was a good deal to get the degreaser and metal prep. After cleaning the small amount of surface rust off the differential I used the cleaner/degreaser and metal prep as suggested. Once that dried I applied the Por 15 in a couple steps to get complete coverage and 2 coats everywhere. I was unsure about only getting a 4 oz can. I would estimate I used about 75% of it and feeling very good about the coverage I got. I have a little left for touch up or another miscellaneous part if something comes along. I read it goes bad quickly. I sealed it up good and stored it in the basement fridge. Hopefully that will help it last.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56235&d=1468618955

While I was waiting for the POR to dry I started work on removing the rear wheel studs. I was concerned about beating so hard on a new part but they came out. Getting them in is another issue. The build manual says to use a lug to tighten them in. Well my wheels are on backorder so I don't have my lugs and multiple sources have told me that does not work that well anyways. If anyone has tricks or tips to ease the insertion of the new studs please let me know. I am thinking about using one of the old studs and a sledge hammer to drive the new ones in, but again I am unsure about beating on the new part so hard. Anyone think this is a bad idea?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56233&d=1468618242

On a fun side note my orange seat belts showed up today. They will be a nice color accent to my orange stripe. I sure look forward to the mail and packages coming these days. Only day I don't want to see the mail man is when he brings the credit card bill! If anyone is looking I will be posting my black seat belts that came with the complete kit for sale soon.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56234&d=1468618938

wareaglescott

07-15-2016, 05:07 PM

just pu my rear diff in last night. make sure you have help. also mount the front bolts first then the rear. when putting in the rear bolts slide the bushing in from the front half way so you have wiggle room with the bolts from the rear and the bushing from the front, the diff is a very tight fit.

stack

Thanks Stack. Good tip!
Also I got my hand operated windshield wiper today. Thanks for turning me on to that.

dmoran

07-15-2016, 06:55 PM

Well The Por15 went on the rear differential very nicely. Very pleased how that turned out. I am going to let it dry more overnight and hope to tackle the install next time.

I found a great Por15 starter kit on Amazon...

I love POR-15. Never heard of it until this build. It goes on great and looks like powder coat. I think the metal prep on bare metal is important with new steel, stainless and aluminum. I started with the kit you referred to and bought more paint and metal prep.

... I sure look forward to the mail and packages coming these days.

After a couple months of UPS deliveries every couple days, my UPS guy finally asked what I was building. I showed him and it turns out that he's a hot rodder. We talked shop for about 20 mins or so, he showed pictures of his builds and he invited me to use his lift if I ever need it. So now he gets weekly status. Funny who's into this stuff. Better check out your mail guy.

2bking

07-15-2016, 09:27 PM

While I was waiting for the POR to dry I started work on removing the rear wheel studs. I was concerned about beating so hard on a new part but they came out. Getting them in is another issue. The build manual says to use a lug to tighten them in. Well my wheels are on backorder so I don't have my lugs and multiple sources have told me that does not work that well anyways. If anyone has tricks or tips to ease the insertion of the new studs please let me know. I am thinking about using one of the old studs and a sledge hammer to drive the new ones in, but again I am unsure about beating on the new part so hard. Anyone think this is a bad idea?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56233&d=1468618242

It's a bad idea if you do it with the vice jaws open like in the picture. Close the vice so the flange is supported close to the stud and it will be OK. A better way would be to use a deep socket for the stud side so the flange is supported around the stud and pound away.

wareaglescott

07-16-2016, 09:06 AM

It's a bad idea if you do it with the vice jaws open like in the picture. Close the vice so the flange is supported close to the stud and it will be OK. A better way would be to use a deep socket for the stud side so the flange is supported around the stud and pound away.

Thanks King. I ended up getting an impact driver and it was much easier. A good excuse to add a tool to my collection!

wareaglescott

07-16-2016, 06:34 PM

Got the differential in today. I used EdwardB's method of using the engine hoist and lifting it from above to get it in place. It actually went in quite easily. The fit was very snug but using a couple tips I read in other build threads I was shocked how easily it went in. I must have lucked out on the chassis mounts because they seemed perfect. No adjustment or washers or any sort of shim needed.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56272&d=1468711363

I started working on the rest of the IRS after that. I will be limited with what I can do here because my 7/8" misalignment spacers are on backorder. Also do not have either sway bar yet. I went ahead and sorted all the bolts and preassembled and greased the various IRS components. I did make a nice discovery. I have read in other build threads there is a conflict with a weld on the UCA and the flange on one of the nuts. On my frame FFR has actually left a gap in the weld so the flange nut can fit square and snug against the frame. I was happy to see that and not have to worry about grinding away the interference. Here are a couple pictures below. If you look closely at the one without the nut you can see the gap in the weld. It is on both sides. Nice to see FFR continue to make small improvements to make it more user friendly for the customers.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56273&d=1468711372
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56274&d=1468711391

I will be able to install a few IRS components tomorrow and then will be stopped in that area waiting on the backordered items so I will have to figure out what I will start next.

edwardb

07-16-2016, 11:21 PM

Looking good! It's a great feeling to get that center section where it belongs. Glad yours went in pretty easily. You mentioned sway bars. When you assemble the rest of the rear suspension, don't forget the rear sway bar mount brackets. They're held in place by the LCA and toe arm bolts. I've talked to several builders that asked me "Where do I mount the rear sway bar?" and found they missed installing the bracket. Not a big deal, but easier the first time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/th_IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg.html)

wareaglescott

07-17-2016, 05:26 AM

Looking good! It's a great feeling to get that center section where it belongs. Glad yours went in pretty easily. You mentioned sway bars. When you assemble the rest of the rear suspension, don't forget the rear sway bar mount brackets. They're held in place by the LCA and toe arm bolts. I've talked to several builders that asked me "Where do I mount the rear sway bar?" and found they missed installing the bracket. Not a big deal, but easier the first time.

Thanks Paul. I found the brackets and realized I wish I would have had them in the powder coat lot. Ended up painting them last night. Hope to get them on today. Appreciate the picture. Some of the build manual pics leave a little something to be desired. This one will help me make sure I have the orientation correct.

wareaglescott

07-17-2016, 03:38 PM

Yesterday I anticipated difficulty getting the differential in and it went in quite well. Today I anticipated easily installing the IRS control arms and it was very difficult. Funny how that happens. It was quite difficult getting the bolts through the bushings. I did grease them all ahead of time quite a bit. It was just difficult getting them aligned front to back.

On the lower control arm I first got the rear most bolt through and had absolutely no luck getting the front in. Then I took the rear bolt out and started with the front. This seemed to work. Not sure if that works in general or just for me.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56291&d=1468787276

Once I got the front bolt in you had a little more working room to work the back into place. I ended up using a strap and pulling it various angles to line everything up perfectly to get the bolts through.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56292&d=1468787290

The upper control arms went a little better after I learned a little better how to align them on the lowers. Torqued all the bolts down and ran out of work time for the day. I will finish the IRS tomorrow as much as able while I wait for my backordered alignment spacers to hook up the hub area.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56293&d=1468787310

wareaglescott

07-18-2016, 05:55 AM

Since I don't have any background in this I rely heavily on the instruction manual. My rear hubs and spindles came unattached. When I got to that stage in the directions the following picture was included:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56296&d=1468803949

It really threw me off that the picture of the bolt shown in the manual was not the actual bolt you use. I found the two bolts pictured. The lower one looked like the one to use but was clearly the wrong size. The upper bolt was the correct size.

Again this is something that an experienced builder probably would not even look to the build manual for. With my inexperience I tend to double and triple check everything before doing anything. The lesson of this one would be not to overthink the simple stuff and sometimes the pictures may not match what you are doing.

carlewms

07-18-2016, 02:10 PM

You will find that will happen again as you progress through the build. I found that using the parts inventory list was pretty accurate. The length for most bolts is measured from the shoulder of the head to end of the bolt; you can pick up a thread gage to measure the pitch and a rule (or vernier calipers) to measure the diameter.

There are lots of You Tube videos on the subject.

Carl

wareaglescott

07-18-2016, 05:05 PM

I am waiting on the alignment spacer for the rear UCA so I cant quite complete the IRS install. Everything is in place and bolted up (waiting to torque) except the upper control arm. Getting those arms onto the spindle assembly was very tight.

After that I started on the rear brakes. I have the Wilwood option. I found on the bracket the instructions say to start with one shim for each bolt. After further assembly I realized this created an uneven gap on the caliper around the rotor. I ended up taking it all back off and removing the shim and it centered perfectly. So zero shims on these for two bolts for me. (the red paint indicates the bolt has been torqued. Another good tip I learned on the forum)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56346&d=1468878796

On the two bolts that hold the caliper on. It said to start with 2 shims on each. I found with 2 shims the caliper was sitting just above the outer edge of the rotor. Took it off and removed one shim. I have one shim on each of the bolts holding the caliper on for perfect alignment.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56347&d=1468878811

3 questions please:
1. The rear axle nut - does it not have a dust cover like the front?
2. The instructions call for the CV nut to be torqued to "98lbs and then rotate 45 degrees". The front nut is 220-250 lbs. Why such a difference?
3. I ran out of time so did not get to start the parking brake caliper install yet. Took just a quick look trying to align it on the caliper. It appears the piston is somewhat extended and I cant get the pads around the caliper. How do I get the piston to retract?

Thanks for the help!

edwardb

07-18-2016, 06:55 PM

3 questions please:
1. The rear axle nut - does it not have a dust cover like the front?
2. The instructions call for the CV nut to be torqued to "98lbs and then rotate 45 degrees". The front nut is 220-250 lbs. Why such a difference?
3. I ran out of time so did not get to start the parking brake caliper install yet. Took just a quick look trying to align it on the caliper. It appears the piston is somewhat extended and I cant get the pads around the caliper. How do I get the piston to retract?

Thanks for the help!

1. Nope.

2. I've seen those called torque to yield (TTY) or sometimes torque plus angle (TA) nuts. That method (base torque plus angle) is supposed to give a more accurate setting since the affect of friction is minimized. Typically they are also one time use only. I can tell you from installing mine you will end up in the same force range (200+ ft-lbs) as the front spindle nuts. The difference though is these turn with the axle, so you have to have a solid way for it to be kept from turning. I found the e-brake had enough force to hold it. Would also work with the transmission installed and in gear or tires on the ground.

3. That's a mechanical caliper (vs. hydraulic) and spring loaded from what I can tell. Mine came retracted and the pads only moved when the cable lever was pulled. They installed without doing anything special. Unless someone else has seen that, you may need to call Wilwood.

unrealmach1

07-18-2016, 07:01 PM

I ordered the CNC 1483 after reading about them in edwardb's build thread. They came in the mail on Saturday and they are Awesome! You will not be disappointed.

wareaglescott

07-20-2016, 11:00 AM

I got the rear brakes and suspension pretty much wrapped up. Interesting for a new guy how you learn as you go. The drivers side rear brake and E-brake took me about 3 hours of trial and error, trip to home depot for a measurement caliper and checking the forum to make sure I was doing everything correctly. The second side was about 23 minutes.

I did find the measuring caliper to be nice when figuring out how many shims to use. Wish I would have thought of that on the front! It seems so obvious but I guess for someone that has never done anything like this before it took me a while to figure out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56406&d=1469027476

Everything else went together pretty nicely. My E-brake cables are on back order so I had to stop when I got to those. I need to look over EdwardB's mod for that also. I am getting two fedex boxes tomorrow from FFR so I am hopeful a lot of my backordered parts will be in there. I really like how the black caliper looks on the black rotor. Happy I went that direction. I would have liked the red for a little color pop but felt it may not have looked great with my orange stripe.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56405&d=1469027465

wareaglescott

07-20-2016, 01:31 PM

I shipped the body off to Whitby in Greensboro today. They are a forum sponsor so I assume it is ok to mention them by name. I could not find anyone locally I trusted to do the body. I have a guy in Atlanta that has done work for me and does a great job but he estimated he would need the entire car for 6 months. Now I am not on a hard timeline but the thought of it being out of my hands for 6 months did not sound good. The pros for using them in my opinion were; 1. They have done a lot of these cars and the people I talked to that used them were very satisfied, 2. They have their own frame so they can do the bodywork while I build up to go cart stage and 3 I was very happy after speaking with Jeff about their process.

I am not completely decided but think when they are done with the bodywork I will take them the go cart and let them install the body. It would be additional expense but at that stage as I approach the finished product I believe it would be a worthwhile expense. Then I can bring the car home and do the finishing touches. Excited to get some sprayed color samples they are going to send me. I requested about 4 of the body color and 3 stripe colors so I can hone in on the final combination.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56421&d=1469038997

WIS89

07-20-2016, 02:49 PM

Scott-

You are making great time! I know you said a couple of color options to help you make your decision, but what are you thinking of going with?

The folks at Whitby's have done quite a few cars, so I suspect you will be pleased with their work.

It's a great decision to have the paint done while you keep working on the rest of the car. I wish I were able to do that myself.

Keep cranking!

Regards,

Steve

wareaglescott

07-20-2016, 02:56 PM

WIS89

07-20-2016, 09:11 PM

Thanks Steve!
My car will look like the one I had drawn up that is my profile picture. Gray with orange stripes. Just need to fine tune the gray and orange colors.

Scott-

Yes of course; I knew you were using that color combination. I got thrown off my game when you said you were getting color samples for the body and stripes. Sorry about that!

I look forward to seeing what they send you to consider. Travel up and back safely!

Regards,

Steve

wareaglescott

07-21-2016, 08:03 AM

Going to start on the pedal box today. I wanted to go ahead and put the heat/sound shield on the drivers footbox front panel. I am just holding it in place with clecos for the time being. Figured that piece of heat shield would be tricky to get in after it was permanently installed. I did learn another rookie lesson. First piece I cut from my template I wasn't really thinking about what side the sticky was on and ended up making it backwards! Luckily it is a big piece so I should be able to repurpose it on smaller panels and not waste it. The piece to the top right is not adhered yet because I know I will have to cut through it as things route through the panel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56444&d=1469105295

I went ahead and attached the firewall. The manual indicated it was a good idea to cut the hole for the heater prior to mounting so I did that. I temporarily mounted the heater. I notice this thing is pretty heavy on the thin firewall. I decided to order the firewall support piece from replicaparts.com. That should help. I do have a question. This heater takes up a fair amount of space. Any coyote builders find the is a problem in the engine bay? I know things get pretty tight in there. I know space is at a premium behind the firewall as well but I will not have a glove box so the size of this seems about equal to that so hopefully everything should fit.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56443&d=1469105284

Jazzman

07-21-2016, 11:06 AM

Nice job leaving space in the heat shielding at the edge for the panels to intersect. You will be happy you did that when you go to fit things later. You might want to figure out what holes you will need to cut on that top right piece and get it installed permanently. There are quite a few things going through that wall that you will be installing very soon. You are also very wise to leave the sides of the foot box off until after you have run your brake and clutch lines. The additional access is very helpful. Keep up the good work! At this pace, your car will be done before mine!!

wareaglescott

07-21-2016, 05:22 PM

I got the pedal box in. I ended up notching the pedal vs doing the frame modification.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56460&d=1469139086

I think it was a good idea to put the heat/sound insulation on the forward panel of the drivers footbox before I mounted it. That stuff is really sticky! I cant imagine trying to work it in there with the pedals in place. Just had to be sure to leave space where the other panels would overlap.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56462&d=1469139108

I do have a question about the master cylinders and the brake balance bar. The FFR youtube video on the pedal box install (which is an older unit but I think still applies) indicates you should thread the rod into the piece enough so that the brake pedal is off the frame. The build manual indicates a good starting point is when you can see the thread flush with the part it is threading into. I tried a couple different positions and still seem to have the pedal bumping up against the frame rail. Any suggestions on adjusting this? When it comes time to set the brake balance the Wilwood instructions mention a quick check gauge part 260-0966. Is this something that is needed? Has anyone used this? I have no idea what to expect as far as setting up the brake balance so any tips or info is appreciated.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56461&d=1469139098

edwardb

07-21-2016, 07:26 PM

I went ahead and attached the firewall. The manual indicated it was a good idea to cut the hole for the heater prior to mounting so I did that. I temporarily mounted the heater. I notice this thing is pretty heavy on the thin firewall. I decided to order the firewall support piece from replicaparts.com. That should help. I do have a question. This heater takes up a fair amount of space. Any coyote builders find the is a problem in the engine bay? I know things get pretty tight in there. I know space is at a premium behind the firewall as well but I will not have a glove box so the size of this seems about equal to that so hopefully everything should fit.

I'm not installing a heater, but do have the Coyote installed so can offer some input. A standard sized glovebox won't fit, but you already mentioned that. On the firewall side, there's 7-inches of space from the firewall to the Coyote in the space above the PS footbox. The distance to the engine reduces to about 5-inches toward the center where the CMCV (Charge Motion Control Valve) vacuum motors are mounted on the back of the engine. These are new for the 2015 Coyote, so previous Coyote installations didn't have to deal with these. But I think this is well away from the area required for the heater. You will need to find a different location for the wiper motor if you're installing wipers. But many have dealt with that. The way I routed the Coyote harness may not work with a heater on the firewall, but there's plenty of cable to find another path. You also should have plenty of room for the regulator and PDB (Power Distribution Box) on the firewall should you choose to mount them there.

I do have a question about the master cylinders and the brake balance bar. The FFR youtube video on the pedal box install (which is an older unit but I think still applies) indicates you should thread the rod into the piece enough so that the brake pedal is off the frame. The build manual indicates a good starting point is when you can see the thread flush with the part it is threading into. I tried a couple different positions and still seem to have the pedal bumping up against the frame rail. Any suggestions on adjusting this? When it comes time to set the brake balance the Wilwood instructions mention a quick check gauge part 260-0966. Is this something that is needed? Has anyone used this? I have no idea what to expect as far as setting up the brake balance so any tips or info is appreciated.

I wouldn't worry so much about the location of the threads in the clevis other than making sure you have full engagement. Get the brake pedal where it needs to be, e.g. not contacting the frame rail. You may find you want to adjust the pedals further once the seats are in and you adjust everything to suit you. I have not heard of or used the gauge you mentioned. For the initial install, center the balance bar and leave it there for now. The cylinders may or may not appear to be balanced when you press the brake pedal, but don't pay any attention to that until you have fluid in the system.

wareaglescott

07-21-2016, 07:57 PM

Thanks Paul.
I am not installing a wiper motor so won't worry about that. Found out I can get away with a hand crank windshield wiper to meet Alabama's regulations so I purchased one that just clips onto the windshield frame. The 7 and 5 inch reference points you give are helpful. I think I should be ok.

bansheekev

07-22-2016, 12:30 PM

I went ahead and attached the firewall. The manual indicated it was a good idea to cut the hole for the heater prior to mounting so I did that. I temporarily mounted the heater. I notice this thing is pretty heavy on the thin firewall. I decided to order the firewall support piece from replicaparts.com. That should help. I do have a question. This heater takes up a fair amount of space. Any coyote builders find the is a problem in the engine bay? I know things get pretty tight in there. I know space is at a premium behind the firewall as well but I will not have a glove box so the size of this seems about equal to that so hopefully everything should fit.

I'm the poster child for sticking as much stuff as humanly possible behind the dash. Mine is a 2013 Coyote and I have the standard FFR firewall (no firewall forward modification), the FFR heater, a shallow glovebox from Alex's Custom Roadster Interiors, and the Coyote power distribution box (PDB) all behind the dash. Yes, it is very tight but I made it work. I omitted the defroster vents and went with only the two floor vents as from my perspective without a top they don't accomplish much of anything. I made a firewall stiffener similar to the one you describe from Mike Everson. I think what made it all possible was the addition of an under-dash panel from Mike Everson, making the dash wiring with Molex quick disconnects, and making the dash easily removable. Some ask about accessing fuses in the PDB if one goes and it being a pain to get to. The only two fuses to worry about in the PDB are the fuel pump and fan. My fuel pump is run off the Ron Francis harness exclusively so no issue there. The fan is also run off the Ron Francis harness but triggered by the fan circuit from the PDB so there is no load on it. That leaves only the main ECM fuse which I doubt would ever be an issue. I did a ton of reorganization on all of the behind the dash wiring to make it compact and efficient routing wires terminating in the same physical area be bundled together. I then used adhesive mounting tabs for zip ties attached to the top of the under dash panel to keep all the wiring in place. All the Coyote and heater wiring go through the hole on the passenger side. I just had to buy the appropriate grommet for that hole. The wires for the gauge senders on the drivers side of the motor go through the driver's footbox and straight under the engine cover. The Ron Francis front harness for headlights/marker lights/cooling fan go through the front of the footbox where FFR intended.

I looked for a better picture but couldn't find one but here you go... Check out my graduation thread below for some pictures of the completed car to get an idea of under the hood spacing.

56502

edwardb

07-22-2016, 01:13 PM

I'm the poster child for sticking as much stuff as humanly possible behind the dash. Mine is a 2013 Coyote and I have the standard FFR firewall (no firewall forward modification), the FFR heater, a shallow glovebox from Alex's Custom Roadster Interiors, and the Coyote power distribution box (PDB) all behind the dash. Yes, it is very tight but I made it work. I omitted the defroster vents and went with only the two floor vents as from my perspective without a top they don't accomplish much of anything. I made a firewall stiffener similar to the one you describe from Mike Everson. I think what made it all possible was the addition of an under-dash panel from Mike Everson, making the dash wiring with Molex quick disconnects, and making the dash easily removable. Some ask about accessing fuses in the PDB if one goes and it being a pain to get to. The only two fuses to worry about in the PDB are the fuel pump and fan. My fuel pump is run off the Ron Francis harness exclusively so no issue there. The fan is also run off the Ron Francis harness but triggered by the fan circuit from the PDB so there is no load on it. That leaves only the main ECM fuse which I doubt would ever be an issue. I did a ton of reorganization on all of the behind the dash wiring to make it compact and efficient routing wires terminating in the same physical area be bundled together. I then used adhesive mounting tabs for zip ties attached to the top of the under dash panel to keep all the wiring in place. All the Coyote and heater wiring go through the hole on the passenger side. I just had to buy the appropriate grommet for that hole. The wires for the gauge senders on the drivers side of the motor go through the driver's footbox and straight under the engine cover. The Ron Francis front harness for headlights/marker lights/cooling fan go through the front of the footbox where FFR intended.

I looked for a better picture but couldn't find one but here you go... Check out my graduation thread below for some pictures of the completed car to get an idea of under the hood spacing.

Nice packaging. My hats off to you getting all that behind the dash. My personal opinion though is the 2015 Coyote PDB is going to be very difficult to get behind the dash. It's physically larger, has large harness wires, and is full of potentially serviceable fuses and relays. The unit is a DD style part vs. the quite different and specialized PDB used previously. These are typically place underhood in DD's, which is where I chose to mount mine. Plus I do have the Coyote PCM/PDB controlling the fuel pump and cooling fan plus I used a couple of the AUX circuits it has available. Used this way, it needs to be readily accessible IMO. Also they revised the power requirements and expect you to attach a #4 battery cable to the front terminal, further complicating matters compared to the previous version.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3566_zpsusr80hfz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3566_zpsusr80hfz.jpg.html)

Now watch someone figure out a way get this thing behind the dash. I'll be interested in seeing how they work it out. At the very least, I believe it would require some major surgery to the harness. I did a little bit, but didn't get into those large harnesses.

wareaglescott

07-22-2016, 01:37 PM

Thanks for the input Bansheekev and Paul. Both good bits of useful information!

bansheekev

07-22-2016, 04:02 PM

Yeah, if mine was that big I was out of luck. If I had extra switched circuits like the new one has I probably would have used a couple like you did too. All I know (and what I've had so many people tell me) is that the engine compartment of mine is clean clean clean. Everything is hidden you don't need to see and it doesn't look cluttered. Kind of my style keep it simple and clean. Made the headache of getting everything back there worth it!

Continue on both of you! I'm entertained watching. BTW - I'm now building a 69 Bronco using a Coyote from a 2013 F150! Think I'm sold on this motor or what?

Kevin

coyobra

07-23-2016, 01:26 PM

wareaglescott

07-23-2016, 02:35 PM

Sorry for the late response. I presented the punch idea to one of the local powder coaters. He had never been approached with this question before but suggested I bring in a test piece and see how it comes out. He did say the back side of the punch will come out convex (for lack of a better word) and opposite of the "punched" side, like looking at it in a mirror. I also made a copy of the drawing of panels attached to the chassis from the assembly manual and thinking to punch the numbers associated with each panel 1 through 44. I'm sure there are some panels that might be different than in the manual depending on the kit and kit options, but it gives a general idea of where they go. Still deciding on how to go about this, but I have a few weeks to think about it. My kit completion date is today and expect delivery in a few weeks.

I found when I got into the panel work it really will not be a problem worth going to the effort of stamping them I don't believe. I spent the time drilling them all as I took them off. This accomplished two things. 1. I am quite familiar with each panel and how it fits together with the surrounding panels and I don't think it will be that hard to find the correct placement going back together. & 2. With the holes already there they will only line up one way and in the right place with the corresponding hole the rivet will attach to.
There may be some sorting to find the correct panel but I have no concern of getting them back in the right place.
I think this was an area I worried about before the kit showed up. Once yours does I don't think you should have a problem with the panels. Much easier to figure out once you can actually see and touch them.

coyobra

07-23-2016, 04:11 PM

That makes alot of sense. I was also contemplating whether I should drill before removing the panels or drill after. Drilling before removing is like the snowflake - no two alike, so if the panels with holes don't align, go back and pick the right one. I'll drill before. I guess I shouldn't sweat small stuff like this, but sometimes you need to be pushed in the right direction. The good thing that came out of this is now I have added a punch kit to my tool collection! : - ). Thanks for helping me remove one more thing from my "best way to do" list.

Jazzman

07-23-2016, 04:19 PM

BTW - I'm now building a 69 Bronco using a Coyote from a 2013 F150! Think I'm sold on this motor or what?
Kevin

Better start a build thread someplace, Kevin. That is exactly my next project!

ZachT

07-24-2016, 08:58 PM

bansheekev

07-24-2016, 10:55 PM

Better start a build thread someplace, Kevin. That is exactly my next project!

Here you go:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21643-1973-Bronco-Project-Yes-it-will-be-Coyote-powered!&p=244926#post244926

wareaglescott

07-25-2016, 04:08 AM

Just wanted to say "thank you" for the detailed build thread. Please continue with the photos and level of detail. These types of threads are so helpful to myself and others without much experience. I look forward to contributing my own thread when I reach the point where I can do my own kit

Sure thing. I'm learning a ton. Sometimes the hard way! Hoping my perspective from a total novice will help others like me out.
Been traveling the last couple days. Can't wait to get back to work tomorrow!

Jeff Kleiner

07-25-2016, 05:16 AM

Apologies in advance for the quick hijack Scott :)

Bansheekev & Jazzman,
I love, love, LOVE the early Broncos! Just to whet your appetites here's a 'glass body one I just did in Lexus Spectra Blue for a customer:

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll69/nickm1024cobra/0665BEE8-3506-47D3-B591-D7FE6F938597_zpsmsktt2m3.jpg

It's an EFI 5.0 with AOD-E but I have an autocross buddy who is almost finished putting a Coyote in his. It's awesome! Did I mention that I love the early Broncos ;)

Jeff

KDubU

07-25-2016, 05:36 AM

wareaglescott

07-25-2016, 08:07 AM

That is nice! My wife wants me to do this as my next project as we missed buying a gorgeous one that was for sale locally two years ago.

Must be something about those early Broncos! I love them also. Seems like a lot of Cobra guys are also drawn to Broncos. That blue one looks fantastic!

Jeff Kleiner

07-25-2016, 10:52 AM

... Seems like a lot of Cobra guys are also drawn to Broncos...

Interestinly enough the owner of the one above has a Mk3 and my friend building the coyote powered one owns a Backdraft.

Jeff

bansheekev

07-25-2016, 11:48 AM

Jeff, love the Bronco. Out here on the west coast these things are like gold. I am astounded at the money people want for them. Kind of crazy. That is why I bought myself a bunch of rust repair labor. After selling motor/trans/interior I'm only in for $2800. Add $1000 in reproduction metal, spot weld cutter, and a fresh bottle of gas for the welder and bring it on! Sorry to hijack the thread - lets get this one back to a FFR build thread....

Kevin

wareaglescott

07-26-2016, 10:56 AM

bansheekev

07-26-2016, 02:19 PM

I ordered this firewall support piece from replica parts. When I mounted the heater box the firewall seemed in need of some support.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56710&d=1469548318

I am curious about the space requirements behind the dash before I permanently mount this. Would it be wise to cut some of the piece away so I can route wires through there? I do not have a good concept for the space requirements for things. Any input on potential problems with installing this piece as is would be appreciated.

Thanks

I would drill at least a 1" hole in it and find a good grommet. I would have liked to run some wires through the same dash support I fabricated but I figured it out too late and had to be creative. Worked out fine in the end but probably cost me a day that I could have been doing something else.

Kevin

wareaglescott

07-26-2016, 05:34 PM

Well today was a hard day on the wallet but I am pleased that I have now spent what I expect to be about 95% of the total cost. I ordered my engine, transmission and all the supporting parts today. I will be excited for those goodies to start showing up!

I am a little frustrated at this point with the amount of incomplete projects I have piling up. I guess that is how it goes. Backordered parts are keeping me from completing the front and rear suspension, sway bars, steering, emergency brakes, and manual driveshaft adapter. Feel like I have a bunch of things 85% done.

I started work on the front and rear sway bars today. The only thing I am missing is the female rod ends so I got everything installed except those. I was pretty ticked off with the build manual instructions again. When I installed the toe adjustment arms I did notice the note in the manual indicating if you were using the rear sway bar to go ahead and install the frame mount brackets then and use the 5/8" by 2.25" bolts and torque them to 100lbs. I did that and continued to build the IRS up around that. Today as I get to the sway bar it says to replace the 2.25" bolts with 2.5" bolts that are provided in the sway bar hardware. Problem is with the rest of the IRS components in place it is quite difficult to get the leverage to break the 100lb torque I previously applied to take these bolts off. After I saw that was going to be an issue I noticed I had about 1-1.5 threads of the 2.25" bolt extending beyond the nut. After some internet research it appears this is acceptable. At this point I plan to not kill myself trying to get those bolts out.
I just wish the instructions were a little better. If they are going to the trouble to put the note in about mounting the frame mount bracket it would be nice if they could finish the job and mention the longer bolt. I would have liked to use the longer bolt but feel the 2.25" one will be fine. Another issue was the FFR directions for the sway bar indicate nothing about greasing the bushings. Every other bushing I have put on the car has grease on it. I did not really think about it until after I am done.
Should I go back and disassemble this so I can grease them?
If you are a first time builder reading this make a note on these two items so you don't have the same issue I did.

Both of these are insignificant things to an experienced builder but for a rookie like me I sure would have preferred a better set of instructions. I am learning a lot the hard way. I guess that is what it is about! ha Next car I will know what I am doing!

stack

07-26-2016, 06:52 PM

keep posting pics. I'm right behind you waiting for parts myself. Aluminum went to powder coat today.

stack

wareaglescott

07-27-2016, 03:37 PM

Today I made a bracket and mounted the CNC triple reservoir I purchased for the brakes and hydraulic clutch. Went in nicely. Used some guidance from other build threads to position it correctly and make sure the hood would clear.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56786&d=1469651230

After that I finished up with the steering rack install. Still missing some parts to install the shaft and steering wheel at this time. I used the Breeze offset mounting rack kit and it went together very nicely and helped center things up.

After that I installed the IRS vent. The two part numbers you need are in the picture below. The little silver plug that goes into the differential and attaches to the vent tube was pretty hard to track down. I initially ordered at one place and they ended up telling me it was on back order for 8 weeks. I lucked out and found the last one at another retailer after looking around a bit. If you are doing the IRS go ahead and order both of these now. The longest part of installing this was finding the frame clips in my parts boxes so I could hold it in place!http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56789&d=1469651259http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56790&d=1469651274

I did have one question today if anyone can help. The grease fittings on the outer tie rods will not take any grease. Is this normal? I did have to adjust them with a metric wrench to line them up properly. All the previous ones I have used were SAE. A metric fitting doesn't require some other sort of grease gun does it?
Thanks

Duke

07-27-2016, 09:41 PM

wareaglescott

07-28-2016, 07:34 AM

^^ I had issues with my LCA ball joints not taking grease. Not uncommon now days with the cheaper overseas zerk fittings on parts. Here's what I used to get it fixed. A good tool to have. Just follow the instructions:

https://www.zerkzapper.com/

Thanks Duke. Can I just change the fitting and save some money or is the problem beyond the fitting generally?

wareaglescott

07-28-2016, 03:48 PM

Last post I asked about the grease fitting not taking grease. Decided to just switch them out as I had some extra grease fittings sitting around. First one worked great. Went to take the second one off and it was totally stripped. Just kept spinning and would not come out. FFR is sending me a new part. Hopefully that one will work better.

My goal today was to mock up the breeze forward battery tray and fan shroud so I could then take the pieces to the powder coater. The battery tray went in no problem. I really appreciate Mark from Breeze and his attention to detail in the way he labels all the parts in the bags and his directions are top notch.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56844&d=1469738098

Part of the battery tray does require you to tap some holes in the frame. That was a first for me. Another excuse to buy a new tool! As I had never done this before I practiced on some spare metal pipe I had after watching a youtube instructional video. Actually quite easy to do.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56845&d=1469738114

After I finished that I started on the radiator. Mounted the fan to the breeze fan shroud. Then I started working on the breeze upper radiator mount. Had to stop to run to the powder coater so I will pick back up with that tomorrow.
Tomorrow should be fun. The motor and transmission are getting delivered. I am excited to have the last major components coming in!

I was going through all my remaining boxes just checking that I had nothing else that needed powder coating. Can someone tell me what these are? I am stumped!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56846&d=1469738130

edwardb

07-28-2016, 04:11 PM

I was going through all my remaining boxes just checking that I had nothing else that needed powder coating. Can someone tell me what these are? I am stumped!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56846&d=1469738130

Those are mounts for hood pins. From the days before there were hood hinges (it's been a long time now...) but still supplied. You have the actual pins in one of your boxes too. That's cool your engine and trans will there soon. It's pretty exciting opening those packages.

wareaglescott

07-28-2016, 05:08 PM

Thanks Paul. Glad I did not take them for powder coating in that case! I figured I did not need them. I am slightly concerned about the space crunch when everything shows up tomorrow!

wareaglescott

07-29-2016, 02:50 PM

I finished the radiator mounting today. Just a mock up as it will come off when I put the motor in and the shroud is still at powder coating. At this point though it can just bolt in and out. I used the Breeze upper and lower radiator mounting kits.

On the upper kit you have to cut the factory mounting points away so the hinge can operate properly and sit flat on the mounting bar. In the picture below I have cut the left one off. Then I grinded them down and touched up the paint. That area will be completely covered so I figured painting was no problem and reapplying powder coat isn't an option.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56893&d=1469820968

The lower mounting kit was very easy to install. Only tricky part was getting it lined up at 51 degrees from level. Could have used a second set of hands but it worked out nicely. I covered it with tape and cardboard to protect the aluminum fins during the build.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56894&d=1469820982

While I was working on that I had tons of deliveries coming in. It was Christmas in July for me. The engine, transmission, and all the associated parts like the clutch, bell housing, control pack, etc came in. The coyote motor looks huge! My wife swears there is no way it will fit in the car. It is good to have the major components all on hand now. I have been working hard to empty parts boxes and free up some space. I swear for every one I empty another 1.5-2 show up! Storage space is at a premium! I still need to figure out a solution for working on the motor. The flywheel comes installed so I don't want to take it off to put it on an engine stand. Once I put the Moroso oil pan on it won't fit back in the crate it came in and I don't want to leave it hanging on the crane for an extended time. I saw EdwardB built a wood stand. I may try that or am open to other suggestions.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56895&d=1469820994http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56896&d=1469821004

I am one month in since delivery. Pretty satisfied with the progress so far.

wareaglescott

07-30-2016, 10:58 AM

I started putting my footbox aluminum back on the car. I don't plan to permanently mount it yet but wanted to mock it up and start putting the heat shield on the inside of the panels while I wait for some backordered parts that have me stopped on a couple other areas. I do plan to drop the motor in to start mocking everything else up. I believe I will have to go ahead and make the engine compartment drivers side footbox panels permanent prior to doing that. On good advice I will leave the top off and outer side pieces until I must do it. I am really liking the black powder coat against the frame and am glad I decided to go with that.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56929&d=1469893454[/IMG[IMG]http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56927&d=1469893429

Once I had the drivers footbox mocked up I had to sit in the car and check the room for my size 13 feet. It is tight as expected! Something that is completely obvious but totally missed by me when I was putting the pedals in was the ability to offset them when mounting. I had just centered them up when I originally put them in. After I saw how tight it was I moved them over to the left as far as I could. Probably 1/4-1/2" is all they moved but it made a huge difference for my feet. Still think I will have to get some shoes with a pretty tight side profile. It is funny how obvious some of these things are but as a first time builder I totally overlook them the first time I see it. I am certainly enjoying the learning aspect of this and feel my confidence level improving as I try new things.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56928&d=1469893440

I have to go fly around for 4 days so I can pay for all this stuff that keeps showing up! I will be home Tuesday night. Look forward to getting back to work Wednesday. I did receive shipping notification that I have a box coming from FFR Tuesday so hopefully those will be some of the backordered parts I am waiting on!

unrealmach1

07-30-2016, 10:20 PM

Looking good. I agree the powder coating looks great.

wareaglescott

08-03-2016, 05:46 PM

After a few days away I started working on the footbox heat and sound insulation.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57075&d=1470263911

I am still just in a temporary mock up on these and do not plan to rivet them for a while. I found with all my pre-drilled holes that if I took the shielding all the way to the edge the panels would not fit together very well. I decided just to run the insulation up to the flanges where the panels overlap so when I join them they will fit together nicely. Then I will go back after final installation and cut thin strips to cover the rivet lines and the flanges where the panels overlap. I also have some dynamat rolls of tape I will cover the seems with. I think that should provide adequate protection.

wareaglescott

08-04-2016, 05:14 PM

Picked up my last few items from the powder coater today including the forward battery tray and fan shroud. Both of them Breeze products. I was able to get them installed. The radiator assembly is just temporarily installed and will come out when the motor goes in. I like not having the battery in the trunk. I did not do any trunk floor modifications so the extra space back there will help just a bit.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57162&d=1470348276
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57161&d=1470348262

I got my Ebrake cables in my last backorder shipment. Was excited to get those run and installed but realized I do not have the spacers needed for the Wilwood option so I did not get very far with that project. I do have a question. The build manual indicates to tie wrap the cable to the IRS lower control arm. It does show a picture of the older IRS though. There does not seem to be much spare cable and I would think if it were tied to the suspension the movement might cause unwanted Ebrake activation. Is this an issue? Does everyone tie wrap as recommended?

Lots of black in this picture so I am pointing at the cable in question.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57163&d=1470348289

edwardb

08-04-2016, 07:21 PM

I got my Ebrake cables in my last backorder shipment. Was excited to get those run and installed but realized I do not have the spacers needed for the Wilwood option so I did not get very far with that project. I do have a question. The build manual indicates to tie wrap the cable to the IRS lower control arm. It does show a picture of the older IRS though. There does not seem to be much spare cable and I would think if it were tied to the suspension the movement might cause unwanted Ebrake activation. Is this an issue? Does everyone tie wrap as recommended?

Lots of black in this picture so I am pointing at the cable in question.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57163&d=1470348289

The instructions for the 2015 IRS e-brake installation are in the separate 2015 IRS instructions. Maybe there's a newer version of the manual that includes the 2015 IRS, but it's not in mine. Anyway, the 2015 IRS instructions don't show a tie wrap and I didn't use one. Just looked at mine. The cable is fine looped from the attachment at the caliper and over the top of the center section.

wareaglescott

08-04-2016, 08:51 PM

The instructions for the 2015 IRS e-brake installation are in the separate 2015 IRS instructions. Maybe there's a newer version of the manual that includes the 2015 IRS, but it's not in mine. Anyway, the 2015 IRS instructions don't show a tie wrap and I didn't use one. Just looked at mine. The cable is fine looped from the attachment at the caliper and over the top of the center section.

Thanks Paul. My build manual has a May 2016 revision date on it. It shows it in there and I was also referencing the 15183 - Ebrake handle instructions from the FFR website. Of course that has a 4/25/14 date on it but still includes the tie wrap instruction. I think I need an instruction manual to tell me what set of instructions to use!!

wareaglescott

08-05-2016, 04:06 PM

Today I finished installing the heat shield in the drivers side footbox. It seems much easier to do those pieces when you can take them in and out vs after them being permanently installed.

After that I got to work on mounting the fuel tank. I opted for an in tank pump. I plan to use the fuel lines supplies with the kit. After my initial reading on the subject I ordered a 255 lph pump from Breeze automotive. A couple hours after I ordered I got a call from Mark at Breeze asking what type of motor I was using. I told him Coyote and he recommended a 155 lph pump. He said it was good up to 440hp plus a 10% margin so basically 484 hp. He indicated with the 255 unit I might have trouble getting the fuel pressure low enough. Now I am completely uneducated on this but this gave me cause for concern. He sent me some supporting literature. Only problem was for every article saying a 155 should be used you can find a contradictory source indicating a 255 is the way to go. With the Coyote I expect with the different than stock air intake and ultimately a dyno tune I should be around 450hp. I jut wasn't comfortable depending on the rated 10% margin. So I compromised and ordered the 190lph unit. That will be more than adequate for the power I will have. Honestly I think all 3 would have worked ok but I am not smart enough in this area to now the finer points so I just went with the middle. Here it is ready to go into the tank.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57201&d=1470430262

I also had read about the bigger fuel vent that Breeze offers so I opted for that as well. Went in very easy. Getting the tank into position by myself was a little tricky. Could have used a second set of hands but school has started here and my shop assistant (wife that teaches 7th grade) has been called back to work. It will come back out again but I just wanted to get it in place and all mocked up. I did have to bend the tabs on the tank as instructed to get it in. Also my front passenger side mounting location required a few hits with the hammer to move it forward so it lined up with the tank properly.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57202&d=1470430279

wareaglescott

08-08-2016, 02:49 PM

I am in a holding pattern waiting for a few parts to complete some previous tasks. In the meantime I am working on fitting the coyote clutch safety switches to the pedal box.

My main project today was to fabricate the lifting plates for the coyote. If you can find the new ones they are about $175. I asked around and EdwardB was kind enough to send me templates off of the ones he made. I was able to make those and all in for bolts, washers for shimming and the 1/4 steel plate I am at about $30. I feel like I have been lighting money on fire lately so it was nice to be able to do something on the cheap.

Here are my supplies:

The plate is 1/4" thick. The bolts that go through the plates into the block are 14mm x 35mm 10.9 steel hex bolts. The mounting bosses are slightly different in their depth from level so I used a different amount of washers on each bolt to get the plates to sit flat. It is pretty obvious though. The center of the holes are 2.917 inches apart and are drilled with a 9/16 bit. Both plates are 4" wide. The back plate is 7.5" long and the side plate is 4.25" long. The upper bolts holes are not real critical on positioning. I am going to hook the chain up to those and used grade 8 bolts 1/2 inch x 2" with a washer and nut on the back.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57270&d=1470684797

The plate for the back of the engine calls for a bend of 17 degrees 3 inches down from the top. I got it really close to 17 degrees because I was making these away from home at a friends metal shop and did not have the engine there to test fit. There is a plug above the lift point that you need to avoid and that is why you need the bend. 17 degrees works great but after I got home I found it was not to critical and anything in the 15-30 range would have worked just fine. I was thankful to have such wonderful templates to work off of so I only needed one trip to the metal shop to have them done right! Thanks again Paul for the excellent details on these templates.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57271&d=1470684809

This is the lift plate installed on the drivers side of the motor.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57272&d=1470684822

wareaglescott

08-10-2016, 04:37 PM

I made the filter for the fuel vent today. I have read on the forum some people complain about a fuel smell in the garage. EdwardB posted in his thread about making a charcoal filter and attaching it to the fuel vent line so I thought that was a good idea.

I went down to Lowes to get all the supplies and ordered the mounting bracket from summit. All in about $25
I had purchased the larger tank vent from Breeze so I used the supplied larger hose to hook up to the filter.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57345&d=1470864751

I mounted it just aft of the fuel fill tube.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57344&d=1470864650

wareaglescott

08-10-2016, 04:47 PM

Next up was the oil pan change. I got a engine cradle as opposed to an engine stand that I could rotate the engine upside down for the change. Just picked it up with the hoist and set it on some wood blocks and it was quite easy to change out. The second bolt on the oil pickup was pretty challenging to get at though. I did let the engine drain for about 3 hours so it was nice not to have oil dripping everywhere when I did this. I think that would have been the only use for an engine stand so I am glad I saved a few dollars on that. The cradle should be nice for assembling the engine accessories and mounting the transmission.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57340&d=1470864598

My pan had the cutout that was supposedly the fix for the issue of the dipstick not going all the way in or reading correctly. I read some others still had issues. I did not want to find out after I mounted it that I had an issue so I went ahead and ground the potential trouble area down. Glad I did that because I unbolted the innards of the pan to be able to clean the metal fragments from my grinding and happened to find a Moroso sticker that had fallen down in there and wedged itself. Very strange! I would have hate to not known that was in there and installed the pan!http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57342&d=1470864626

Here it is installed. Looks nice. I reused the oil filter I took off and poured the original oil back in. I measured it closely as it was going back in and it was just over 9 quarts. Will need to get a few more quarts to top it off I guess. I am not sure the total capacity with the new pan. I suspect over 10.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57343&d=1470864638

wareaglescott

08-11-2016, 04:15 PM

Today I installed the alternator and power steering pump and serpentine belt.
The alternator went in very nicely. I got the recommended one from the coyote installation instructions. I did have one area of confusion. The kit came with this tensioner and there was one already installed in the spot it was supposed to go in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57385&d=1470932056
The instructions made no mention of whether or not I was supposed to change it out. I called Ford tech support and they advised to change it out. Don't really know why but I did as recommended. The torque specifications for all the bolts where listed on the instructions. However since this part was not included on the instructions there was also no torque spec listed. I asked Ford tech support on that and they said 18 ft/lbs.

After that I went to the power steering pump. I ended up painting the brackets with some paint made for engines. I did not want to have bare metal in there. Here is how it looks when complete. I was very happy with the instructions from FFR on this install. Only thing was for the bracket holding the pump the instructions showed a different type of bolt than was provided in the kit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57415&d=1470949213

I am still waiting on some backordered parts that have me stopped about half way through 5 different projects on the car. I really dislike having things part way done so i am enjoying working on the motor for a few days and completing the tasks I start because I have the needed parts. Tomorrow I plan to work on the transmission side of the motor.

wareaglescott

08-12-2016, 03:01 PM

Worked on mounting the clutch and transmission today. For a newbie like me I sure would have liked some instructions on how to do all this. Basically referenced youtube videos and a few messages with my build mentor!
My first issue was the dowels in the flywheel. I had read they are hard to get in so I was pleased when they were already installed on the flywheel.
The problem was those dowels were to big for my clutch plate. I should add that I ordered all the recommended parts from the coyote instructions to ensure everything was compatible. So I had to get those dowels out and the new ones that came with the clutch put in. Turns out I had to take the flywheel off anyways to get the sandwich plate up behind it. Once the flywheel was off I was able to beat the dowels out with a hammer and punch from behind. I had the new ones in the freezer and they went it with a few hits of the hammer. The dowels were in the correct holes for proper alignment so I just put the new dowels in the same holes the old ones came out of. After putting the flywheel back on it was somewhat tricky to torque the bolts without it spinning. I ended up putting two bolts in the outer ring of the flywheel and using a pry bar to stabilize it for tightening the bolts down.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57450&d=1471016209

After that everything went together easily. Did take a little maneuvering to get the transmission to seat fully. I ordered the forte hydraulic clutch setup. Also there is a plug on the aft drivers side of the transmission that I believe is used for the speedometer. Mine has a gps and will not be needed. The transmission (tko600) is shipped with a rubber plug in there. If you are going with this configuration you need to remember to order this cover plate from Forte. I failed to initially and ended up paying extra for a second shipping charge.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57458&d=1471030892

I did attach the mounting plate but was unsure about the rest of the hydraulic clutch setup at this point. Does anyone know if you put it on now if that causes any interference problems when installing the motor into the car?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57457&d=1471030883

Had to dress it up wth the engine cover to get a picture when it was done. Cant wait to see it in the car one day.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57456&d=1471030872

Jazzman

08-12-2016, 04:06 PM

Also there is a plug on the aft drivers side of the transmission that I believe is used for the speedometer. Mine has a gps and will not be needed. The transmission (tko600) is shipped with a rubber plug in there. If you are going with this configuration you need to remember to order this cover plate from Forte. I failed to initially and ended up paying extra for a second shipping charge.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57458&d=1471030892

Now you tell me!! I didn't order one either. No disrespect to Forte, I am sure it is a fine part, but for something that small, that hidden, I am not sure I will pay the second shipping charge to get it. I will probably try to fab my own.

I see you decided to leave the shift lever in the rear most position. For some reason I thought you were going to do a mid shift. Did you change your mind, or just not get around to it yet?

I like that engine stand. Simple and solid. I may have to buy one, or perhaps borrow yours!!

You are doing a great job!! Keep up your detailed posts, especially on the engine install. This stuff is old news to the experts around here, but for those who haven't seen or done it before, it is very good information. Especially your mistakes! We love to laugh at you . . . I mean "WITH YOU"!! :o

wareaglescott

08-12-2016, 08:25 PM

Now you tell me!! I didn't order one either. No disrespect to Forte, I am sure it is a fine part, but for something that small, that hidden, I am not sure I will pay the second shipping charge to get it. I will probably try to fab my own.

I see you decided to leave the shift lever in the rear most position. For some reason I thought you were going to do a mid shift. Did you change your mind, or just not get around to it yet?

I like that engine stand. Simple and solid. I may have to buy one, or perhaps borrow yours!!

You are doing a great job!! Keep up your detailed posts, especially on the engine install. This stuff is old news to the experts around here, but for those who haven't seen or done it before, it is very good information. Especially your mistakes! We love to laugh at you . . . I mean "WITH YOU"!! :o

That piece is actually more than just a cover plate. It is a plug with an O-ring on it. I believe it would be quite challenging to fabricate the plug portion.
Still haven't decided on the shift location. Going to see how it lines up when I get it in the car.

The engine stand works great. It was $78.75 shipped to me. When I changed the oil pan I just picked the motor up with the hoist and set 2 4x4s under each side and it raised it enough that it was quite simple to get at the bolts and change them out. When it was on the ground today it was very easy to attach the transmission. It was less than a foot to elevate the transmission. Now it balances fine. I put a couple 2x4s under the back of the transmission to give it some support for the next month or so before it goes in the car. Not needed but it makes me feel better that it just isn't hanging there. I think for this application with the coyote where you really aren't doing any real engine work this is much preferable to a traditional engine stand. You are welcome to borrow it but I believe it would cost about that much to ship it to Arizona and back when you are done with it. When I sold the seatbelts that box cost me $40 one way to ship!!

Duke

08-13-2016, 03:56 PM

Jazzman

08-14-2016, 05:24 PM

You're welcome: https://www.amazon.com/Bowler-BPT-SHBP-00-BILLET-ALUMINUM-TAILHOUSING/dp/B013ZTGU2E

Thanks, Duke!

6t8dart

08-15-2016, 10:35 AM

I got this from summit, it was a heavy nylon type plastic, but looks like a factory part. Works great, I installed it last week. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-spun-10004

wareaglescott

08-16-2016, 04:45 PM

Been traveling for a few days so I haven't gotten much work done. I was happy to get home today and have boxes from FFR waiting for me. I received some much needed back ordered items that will allow me to finish up some partially done projects on the suspension and steering. Also my wheels came. I originally ordered the 17" wheels but due to extensive backorder delays I decided this past week to switch to 18'. They look great. I had to take two out of the box and put them on the car just to see. Man that rear tire is going to be fat! I ordered tires from Tire Rack and they should be here in a couple days. I wanted the BFG Rival S but they were not currently available. I ended up ordering the 245/40ZR-18 FALKEN AZENIS RT615K RF and the 315/30ZR- 18. I think I will be very happy with those.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57594&d=1471382288

Also in the backorder box was a part I was not expecting. In fact it was not on the pack list. I inquired with FFR and they indicated it is the Mount specifically for the 2015 + Coyote Computer. I am not to that stage yet but this is the first I have heard/seen about this mount. Maybe it is a new piece. I was happy they were proactive in shipping it to me instead of me figuring out down the road I need it and having to wait. Here it is:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57593&d=1471382277

Finally while I was traveling I was thinking about planning the interior. I am an airline pilot. My dad was an Air Force pilot in Vietnam and airline pilot. He passed earlier this year. My entire life he had this stick in his office out of one of his Air Force jets he flew in 1968:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57595&d=1471382300
I always played with it as a child and now display it in my office. My car isn't going to be very traditional with the high back seats and dual roll bars. I am thinking about using this as my gear shift handle as well as using some aircraft style rocker switches on the dash. Not sure if the scale is correct or if it will be to big. I am going to give it a look when I get the transmission in the car and can put a seat in. Here is how it fits in my hand:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57596&d=1471382315
I would have to fabricate a linkage of some sort and make it interchangeable with a traditional shifter in case the day comes when I sell the car I could take it out and keep it. So thinking that over for now. It came out of the jet in '68 but was likely a few years old at that point. I think it is also kind of cool that it is close to the original vintage of the Cobra. Certainly that style of stick won't be liked by the traditionalist but that is ok with me. To each his own. I'd like to have a items of my dads in there and also tie it into my aviation background.

bluse

08-16-2016, 07:03 PM

Using that stick is going to be way cool.
Can't wait to see it installed.

edwardb

08-16-2016, 07:06 PM

Love the shifter. What a great tribute to your dad. Good luck getting it to fit. And I mean that in a good way. :)

wareaglescott

08-16-2016, 08:22 PM

Love the shifter. What a great tribute to your dad. Good luck getting it to fit. And I mean that in a good way. :)

Thanks I am wondering if I use the mid shift position and just have a short stub of sorts sticking up if I could just put it right on there and use the existing bolt hole??

edwardb

08-16-2016, 08:46 PM

Thanks I am wondering if I use the mid shift position and just have a short stub of sorts sticking up if I could just put it right on there and use the existing bolt hole??

By midshift are you referring to the TKO center shift position? As opposed to the rear position as it comes stock? If so, that midshift requires a kit and some disassembly/assembly of the transmission. I personally haven't done it, so can't comment about it too much. Doesn't look hard, but may be more that what you're expecting. Details here: http://www.tremec.com/anexos/Mid-Shift%20Conversion%20Kit.pdf.

There are tons of aftermarket shift handles on the market for the TKO that match the stub out of the transmission. It shouldn't be too difficult to find one that has the angle and length you want and modify to mount your aircraft handle. May take some work at a machine shop. But shouldn't be too bad.

Garry Bopp

08-16-2016, 08:51 PM

I love it, Scott! Awesome look plus a tribute and remembrance of your Dad!

Garry

bansheekev

08-17-2016, 11:57 AM

Thanks I am wondering if I use the mid shift position and just have a short stub of sorts sticking up if I could just put it right on there and use the existing bolt hole??

Here is what I did:
1) Reversed the stock shifter on my TKO (the one shipped with the TKO can be reversed 180 degrees). This moved it forward about 3-4"
2) I used a 5" tall 2.5" dogleg shifter from Fortes designed for a 99-04 Mustang GT. In the Mustang the dogleg brings the shifter closer to you, in mine I turned it around to be further forward. The shifter bolts straight to the TKO
3) A friend machined a 1" aluminum adapter to move the shifter 1" further forward to get it right where I wanted it.

Pretty much a mid shifter without tearing into the transmission to install a mid shifter. Here is what it looks like:

57615

Kevin

wareaglescott

08-17-2016, 05:09 PM

Here is what I did:
1) Reversed the stock shifter on my TKO (the one shipped with the TKO can be reversed 180 degrees). This moved it forward about 3-4"
2) I used a 5" tall 2.5" dogleg shifter from Fortes designed for a 99-04 Mustang GT. In the Mustang the dogleg brings the shifter closer to you, in mine I turned it around to be further forward. The shifter bolts straight to the TKO
3) A friend machined a 1" aluminum adapter to move the shifter 1" further forward to get it right where I wanted it.

Pretty much a mid shifter without tearing into the transmission to install a mid shifter. Here is what it looks like:

57615

Kevin

Thanks Kevin! That is what I will need to do

WIS89

08-17-2016, 05:25 PM

Scott-

I think you will find that the flight control stick is joined to the metal piece by way of some adhesive, epoxy, or something similar. Some are just screwed right in. When transitioned to a display piece, they don't generally have a standard way of mounting them, but most I have seen are similar to my description.

You can play with this material quite easily, and can find a method of joining it to the shift mechanism. It might take a little creativity, but will certainly be worth it. Based on what I have seen of your work, you will have no trouble at all getting this to work!

I look forward to seeing it in action!

Regards,

Steve

wareaglescott

08-17-2016, 05:25 PM

My tires were delivered today so I got them mounted on the wheels. I love how they look. Cant wait to see them on the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57622&d=1471471645

I finished the fuel and return lines and mounted the fuel regulator. I went with the kit lines. Turned out fine. I am not thrilled with using the rubber fuel hoses. This could be a potential upgrade soon after the car is complete. I did fabricate a bracket for the fuel regulator so it sits about an inch of the firewall. This will allow the coyote harness to come behind it. Thanks for that tip EdwardB! The regulator came with a bracket. I basically just duplicated the shape but made it come out an extra inch. Here are a couple pictures:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57620&d=1471471624

In this one you can see how it sits away from the firewall:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57621&d=1471471636

Now for the frustrating part of the day! A couple weeks ago I realized my steering tie rod end was not taking grease and the grease fitting was stripped so I could not replace it. FFR sent me a new one. So I decided to take 5 minutes and change it out. I never torqued down the nut or anything. I figured I would take the nut off, push the bolt end back through, unscrew the rod end and replace it with the new one. I could not get the rod end to disengage from the steering piece it was going through. Tried beating it out with no luck. Tried unhooking the upper control arm so I could move the assembly around in a few axis to loosen it. No luck there. Ultimately I cut the bolt part sticking through from the bottom with a hacksaw (the part was going in the trash anyways). Figured then I would be able to beat the remaining piece out. Still no luck. I cant for the life of me understand how the bolt part is so firmly planted in there. Now I have resorted to drilling it out. That is going extremely slow. I gave up after working on it for 2 hours. Figured it is best to walk away and come back another day. Here is what I currently have. As you can see it is maybe 75% drilled out and still will not budge.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57623&d=1471471654

Questions:
Is this normal for these to be so wedged in?
I am concerned the other side might be like that as well. I centered the rack up when installing but still assumed these would need further adjustment when it comes time to align everything. Obviously you have to take this part out to rotate the rod end to lengthen/shorten it. Have people had problems with this?
Any suggestions for how to get this thing out?

Thanks

Duke

08-17-2016, 07:09 PM

Yes, this is normal for them to stick into place.
No, you used the wrong tool. You should have used a ball joint separator. Example: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010
No, you can't reuse these parts. They will need to be replaced.

You can always use this link in in the future too: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+remove+tie+rod+end

Gromit

08-17-2016, 09:57 PM

Ball joints and tie rod ends have a locking taper at this point a pickle fork removal tool still should work. But they aren't great if you are trying to reuse the ball joints or rod end because they can cut the boot. Most auto parts store s will even let you rent them.
My family always hears me say..... It's all about having the right tools for the job
Chris aka Gromit

Jeff Kleiner

08-18-2016, 04:56 AM

... Obviously you have to take this part out to rotate the rod end to lengthen/shorten it....

No Scott, you do not take the outer tie rod ends loose from the steering arms when adjusting toe. You will loosen the jamb nut and turn the shaft that runs between the inner and outer tie rods. As for the easy way to disengage the tapered shaft from the steering arm---a couple of solid whacks with a hammer to the end of the steering arm in the horizontal axis (perpendicular to the tapered shaft) will usually cause it to fall right out.

Good luck,
Jeff

wareaglescott

08-18-2016, 05:20 AM

Well another rookie mistake and lesson learned! Thanks for the replies and tips. Now I have mangled that bolt up so badly it should be a real PITA to get it the rest of the way out. Next time I will take a pause and ask first!

wareaglescott

08-18-2016, 02:27 PM

Wow what a complete pain in the rear that was. After about 3 hours of cutting, drilling, banging, filing and a few choice words I finally got the carcass of that bolt out without any damage to the steering arm. Never again will I forge ahead when I am stuck on something without a check of the forum for advice. Could have saved myself hours of frustration. It is all good now and I learned another good lesson without damaging anything I needed. The replacement rod end is installed and working nicely.

After that I moved on to finishing up the front and rear sway bars. I had been waiting for the female rod ends since I got my kit. I cut them to the specified 1/2 inch of thread remaining and installed them. I noticed the rear directions specified to torque the lower bolts to 40lbs. The front directions did not give a torque specification so I did those the same.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57636&d=1471546492
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57637&d=1471546503

One that was done I had to put the tires on just to see what it looked like and roll it out of the garage for some pictures. Even had to pull the seat out of the closet to day dream a bit. haha Still on the dolley at this point but I am going to consider it a rolling chassis. I figured the added elevation the dolley provides will make it a little easier to work on until I am ready to put the motor in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57638&d=1471546516

I did notice when I put the wheels on that visually they are close to straight but will need a lot of work in all axis for alignment. What is the general thought on self alignment? Is it doable with the proper tools? Can anyone recommend some good alignment tools? I do not mind spending money on the tools vs paying someone to do it for me. I haven't found any good local recommendations for alignment shops so am really leaning towards doing it myself. I just need to educate myself on the process and required tools to learn if it is within my capability.

Also it appears at the fullest reach of the steering I could have a slight rubbing issue on the f-panel. Of course the car is not aligned, or even sitting on the ground and the motor is not in yet. The suspension is just hanging in space with no load on it. I will revisit that down the road.

edwardb

08-18-2016, 03:18 PM

Don't draw too many conclusions about anything until it's at ride height plus aligned. If you're still hitting the F panels later, there are stops you can add to the steering rack. Self alignment is absolutely possible and actually kind of interesting. At least I find it to be. Little tougher with this build because both front and rear need to be aligned. I have the SPC Performance FasTrax 91000 Camber Caster Gauge and have done all my alignments so far. There are other camber/caster options as well. I also have some toe plates, but there are several ways to do that. In addition to the tools, some use strings. I've had good luck with a laser level like the Bosch GPL3T 3-Point Torpedo. Bottom line, yes you can buy the tools and learn for not much more than the first alignment at a shop that specializes in such things. The biggest challenge I've found is using the camber/caster gauge with the newer 18-inch wheels. They have a nice stylish radius which makes it a bit challenging to attach the gauge. But this too has options.

wareaglescott

08-20-2016, 01:16 PM

I worked on the coyote clutch safety switches today. FFR has recently started making brackets to mount these with.
Here they are on the supplied brackets:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57679&d=1471715857

The bracket for the one on the bottom works great. I used it as intended. The bracket for the one on the top is meant to be used with the assembly for the cable driven clutch. I am using a hydraulic clutch so that would not work.
I ended up cutting this piece to make a push plate to activate the other switch:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57680&d=1471715869

Here you can see it attached to the master cylinder and depressing the top switch. I drilled a new hole in this piece to make it line up properly and then trimmed it to shape. It is a little sloppy because it has an extra hole in it out towards the edge because of how I cut up the existing piece. The hole does not interfere with its push function and it will not be seen. I am just going to claim it is aerodynamically enhanced instead of admitting I took the easy way out of going to buy metal to make one from scratch.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57682&d=1471715886

Then I made a bracket to hold the switch. I used a shape similar to what EdwardB shows in his build thread. I drilled holes to line up with the existing bolts. When FFR sent the new pieces they sent longer bolts than originally supplied and those worked great. I trimmed the switch plastic a little and then used the two mounting holes. I drilled and tapped a couple holes and a #6 x 3/4" bolt threaded into the forward hole. Because of the position of the rearward hole I was able to use a 1" bolt and go all the way through and add a nut. It is very solidly mounted. As solid as a plastic piece mounted to metal can be I suppose. After the picture just as a backup I secured a zip tie around the mounting plate and switch. The thought of having to get in there to replace it would not be fun!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57681&d=1471715877

After that I put the pedal box back in the car. It all looks like it will work great. I installed the master cylinder for the clutch. Lastly I was able to run the steering shaft because I received the backordered pieces i was needing in that area.

wareaglescott

08-22-2016, 03:46 PM

Today I installed the accelerator pedal. I read a few different ways people had done this differently than the supplied directions to optimize their pedal position. I have size 13 feet and wanted to make sure I could get a pedal position I was happy with. My first attempt was to just follow the directions. I mocked it up and put my seat in the car. I was actually quite happy with the pedal position following the factory five instructions. I moved it up just slightly and locked it in there. Here is where they ended up and how my feet fit in there.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57748&d=1471897969

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57749&d=1471897982

Not thrilled with the finish on the pedal. Anyone know if anyone sells some sort of aluminum pedal that is a direct replacement that I could swap out and more closely match the other two pedals?

After that I mounted the fuse box. I decided to use rivets to make it easy to screw in and out so that took a couple extra minutes. Got a good tip from EdwardB. The forward outside corner is not supported. Since I had a fan shroud kit I had the braces in the kit left over. I cut the end off of one of those and made a bracket to rivet to the frame and provide a mount location for the unsupported corner. I like how that worked out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57752&d=1471898013
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57751&d=1471898004

wareaglescott

08-24-2016, 05:04 PM

Ran the brake lines today for the front and rear. I must say this is one of my least favorite parts of the build so far. Starting with a straight 60" piece and trying to maneuver it around various bends has its challenges. It all worked out though. Will be anxious to see if I have any leaks when I bleed the system. I am using the triple fluid reservoir from CNC and have it mounted just a little forward of the DS footbox. I believe this will have to come out when the engine is being dropped in so I am not hooking up the lines to the reservoir just yet. Here is the front routing. I used one 60 inch piece from the pedal box to the DS brake and then a second piece around to the PS front brake. I could not get that last bend under the PS shock so I had to unbolt it, make the bend and then rebolt the shock.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57804&d=1472074938
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57805&d=1472074956

The rear brakes worked out ok. I was determined to use the supplied lengths and I did not want to have to cut and flare one of the lines. I have less confidence in my flaring ability than tube bending. The shorter pieces were to short and the long one seemed way to long for a direct routing. As a result I took a somewhat circuitous route from the junction point in the rear around to the PS rear brake. I have never ran any brake lines before. Does anyone see a problem with this routing? Does it matter that I used a longer piece than was really needed?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57808&d=1472074977
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57809&d=1472074987

I did notice today as I was running the front line near the power steering rack that one of the supply lines on the steering rack has a kink in it. It was delivered this way as I have never touched it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57807&d=1472074967
Also of note when I first unpacked it one of the red plugs that guards the inlet holes was damaged as well. I am now wondering if this thing took a large blow at some point in its life. I emailed FFR a picture (I purchased the rack from them with my kit). I requested a replacement line. They indicated they do not have just the line and would send me an entire new rack. I would really prefer not to replace the rack. Is there any reason I cant just take the damaged line off the already installed rack and take the new line from the new rack and install it?

bansheekev

08-24-2016, 05:35 PM

I can confirm that the triple CNC reservoirs need to be dismounted from the 3/4" tube in front of the driver's footbox to drop the Coyote in. Been there, done that a couple of times!

Kevin

Jeff Kleiner

08-25-2016, 05:14 AM

wareaglescott

08-25-2016, 05:34 PM

No reason you can't just swap the line on the racks. Regarding brake lines; yours should work just fine however if you would prefer to do a rework using a shorter line to eliminate your "somewhat circuitous route" pre-made lines in a multitude of lengths are available for a few bucks at NAPA and other auto parts stores.

Cheers,
Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I was determined to use all the kit supplied parts for at least one complete system so I am going to stick with my longer routing as long as it doesn't cause any issues. Finally no additional expense in an area!

wareaglescott

08-25-2016, 06:08 PM

Today I installed part of the cockpit aluminum. I left the outside and top of the drivers footbox off for accessibility. I did make the engine bay side footbox side panels permanent in preparation for the motor going in soon. I left the back wall off until I do the trunk floor. Because of the location of my brake reservoir I will not be able to put fluid in the brake system and bleed them until after the motor is in. For now I am leaving the trunk aluminum off so I can access the rear lines in case there are any leaks. It is nice putting parts on the will stay there. This is looking like a car more every day!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57820&d=1472164318

After that I had the momentous occasion of pushing the dolly out of the garage and turning it around to nose first in preparation for the engine install. Tomorrow or the next day it will come off the dolly. With any luck the next time the car sees the outside of the garage it will be moving there under its own power! In preparation for the engine install I removed the previously mounted radiator, removed the triple fluid reservoir, and swung the steering column out of the way. Tomorrow I hope to lay out some of the wiring harness and then I should be ready for the motor.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57821&d=1472164328

wareaglescott

08-27-2016, 01:46 PM

Got the motor in today.

In preparation yesterday I made some transmission spacers. Following EdwardBs build thread he indicated he needed 3/4'" spacers. I made three 1/4" thick spacers and sandwiched them together. I have not installed the driveshaft yet but the alignment does look good with the 3/4" in there. Now I will have the flexibility to adjust it in 1/4" increments if needed or if I need a little more I could put some washers in there.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57897&d=1472321999

Here they are installed
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57898&d=1472322009

After I had that complete it was on to engine install. Two buddies came over to help me out. First rookie mistake was I did not have the crane arm all the way out. It is a 2 ton unit that you can move the arm in or out depending on your loading. I like to be a little conservative so I was one setting in from full extension. Well after we picked the motor up and started the process of getting it in we realized the front of the frame was going to run into the crane before the engine was far enough in. That was a little delay because I had previously had the engine on a cradle that used the same mounting holes as the engine mounts. When we first picked the motor up while it was hanging we took the cradle off and put the mounts on. Now that we needed to set the engine back on the ground to extend the crane arm we had to do that in reverse and then pick it back up and do it again a 3rd time basically. That was about half the total time of the install! Live and learn I guess. Definitely a rookie mistake. Turns out even at full extension the front sway bar was only about 2 inches from hitting the engine crane. Not a lot of room to spare!

As advertised it was a very tight fit! Again thanks to EdwardBs build thread I used a ratchet strap around the crane and the end of the transmission to help force the motor into the proper angle to get it in. You can see the strap here.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57903&d=1472322374

I had previously installed the shorty headers. It was very tight getting them in. Also had the alternator and FFR power steering pump in place. Manipulating the leveler, the angle with the strap and very slow movements lowering and backwards we were able to get it in there. Once everything cleared it dropped right into the engine mount locations beautifully! I got extremely lucky with the rear engine lift plate I made that was discussed previously in the thread. Turns out when the engine settled into place the plate was right up against the passenger footbox. Literally less than a millimeter to spare. Got it out and there was no damage to the footbox but it could not have been any closer! I would recommend if anyone else is making those to notch that portion out a little bit so you have a little extra room to work with. It is hard to see in the picture especially with the gloss black powder coat and reflections but here it is right against the panel before we removed it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57899&d=1472322017

The other side by the oil dipstick is the least clearance area I have. Extremely tight over there! Again hard to tell with the gloss and reflections. It is not touching but very close.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57900&d=1472322025

Here she sits. Had to pull out the engine covers again for the pictures.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57902&d=1472322049

Proud of how that all worked out. Especially since it was mine and my 2 helpers first time installing any type of motor. Sure feels good to see it sitting there. We have a neighborhood BBQ tonight so I have to go man the smoker. Next project is the driveshaft. I do have this safety loop and have it ready to install.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57901&d=1472322035

Oh and one last item. It was recommended to me to get some wheel dollies and to move the car to the engine crane instead of moving the crane to the car. A friend had a set I could borrow. I have no frame of reference because I have never done it the other way but it sure made it easy to line everything up by just sliding the car around on the dollies. That was a great tip.

WIS89

08-27-2016, 02:28 PM

Scott-

She looks comfy in there! How good does that feel, huh? Congratulations on getting that power plant in there, it looks awesome!

I have enjoyed following your build. You are making very good progress.

I had to comment though; even your shop towels are Auburn orange. Love that commitment. ;-o)

Regards,

Steve

edwardb

08-27-2016, 03:07 PM

Congrats! Big accomplishment, and your first time too! Way to go. :cool:

wareaglescott

08-28-2016, 06:06 PM

Installed the transmission A frame support, driveshaft and driveshaft safety loop today.

The 3/4" of spacers I added into the transmission mount worked perfectly. Could not get a picture but when it was said and done and I put my angle gauge on it the reading was right at zero. I was pleased with that.

When I put the driveshaft in I guess I was expecting more of it to be within the transmission end. This first picture shows where I drew a line on it with a sharpie when the driveshaft was in the installed position. The portion to the right of the line is the segment that ended up inside the transmission. About 2" I would guess. The second picture shows how much of the shaft is showing once installed. The picture is taken from above looking down into the transmission tunnel. (excuse my bald head and ear in the picture. I was pinned under the car and holding it out so my wife could take the picture.)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57964&d=1472424810
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57967&d=1472424846

I have no frame of reference but was expecting it further in the transmission. However when I Installed it I had to push it in as far as it could possibly go just to get the rear end able to go into position. So I guess if it was any longer I would not be able to get it installed.
Does this look to be normal and ok?

The safety loop went in ok. I was not planning on doing the Ebrake cable mod. However the shaft pushes hard against the cables. When the brake is released it is ok. When the brake is set I think the interference will be to much. I believe I will have to do the mod on the cables.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57966&d=1472424834
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57965&d=1472424824

Question - do the black portion of the cable move or is there a piece inside that is moving. I am wondering if the cable can survive pushed up against the safety loop like this?

edwardb

08-28-2016, 06:38 PM

Hate to say it, but no that doesn't look right. The yoke should go in further and much less should show once installed. This is mine, with the same exact engine, trans and IRS setup as yours:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0544_zpsagzvcw2m.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0544_zpsagzvcw2m.jpg.html)

Looks like you were sent the wrong driveshaft. Grrr.... You can see the one they sent me is longer. And yes that part of the e-brake cable moves and probably best it's not contacting the drive shaft loop. I'm just full of good news. :(

Jeff Kleiner

08-28-2016, 07:14 PM

I'm with edwardb on both counts.

Jeff

wareaglescott

08-28-2016, 07:34 PM

Well I am beyond disgusted they can not send the correct parts. These bolts have red thread lock on them. I can not budge them to loosen and take the incorrect one out. Extremely discouraged at this point. Can someone offer suggestions on what to do here with these locked down bolts? They are hex head and I can barely even get the allen wrench in there without the other parts of the linkage getting in the way. Certainly can not get good enough leverage on it to turn without completely stripping out the bolt head.

wareaglescott

08-29-2016, 05:39 AM

Well thanks to Paul and Jeff for the input on those issues. With a lot of heat I was able to get those bolts removed and the driveshaft back out. I have confirmed FFR sent me the wrong one. There are a couple on the order form. I inquired via email with them prior to ordering which one I needed for a coyote/tko600/irs setup and they indicated part 16038. Turns out this was not correct. It should have been 15955. I am glad I saved the email so I had proof this was not my error. I expect they will correct this mistake no problem. It is disappointing there have been a handful of mistakes with my order. To their credit they have fixed every one in a very timely manner. I have never had any complaints with their customer service in that regard.

Now that the driveshaft is removed it will at least make it easier to go back and do the Ebrake cable mod since I have a little more room to work in that area. Hopefully that mod will provide sufficient clearance between the driveshaft safety loop and the cables.

I don't like taking steps backwards but at least I have this forum to verify when things are right or wrong. I appreciate all the great help that can be found on almost any topic. Yesterday marked two months since I received my kit so I am still quite pleased with my progress.

WIS89

08-29-2016, 12:09 PM

Scott-

Even though you already have the answer and solved the problem, I wanted to say that heating the thread locked bolts, you should be able to remove them.

I just needed to feel like I helped -- even though I am late to the party! It's a weakness!!

Sorry about the driveshaft issue. I know it's frustrating, but Factory Five is great about fixing this kind of stuff. Now you will be expert at installation and removal of the driveshaft! Small consolation I know, but it's something!

Thanks for the build thread; I have enjoyed following along!

Regards,

Steve

wareaglescott

09-01-2016, 02:52 PM

If you plan on doing the Ebrake cable mod that routes them above the lower frame tube then don't be a moron like me and wait until after the transmission is installed. What a pain in the rear with the limited space to work!! Initially I was not going to do it. After I installed the driveshaft safety loop I saw I had a conflict with the cables hitting the safety loop and decided to do it.
I ordered the parts mentioned in EdwardBs thread and got to work following his instructions. My first issue was I could not get a drill on the 3/4" tube where he placed his pulley because of the transmission. I moved it back to the tube just aft of that. This worked out ok and I think it slightly helped the angle of getting the cables away from the safety loop.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58051&d=1472758756
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58052&d=1472758766

Now that it is complete the safety loop does not conflict as much. When the brake is released it is loose against it. When it is pulled tight it does snug up on it. That is the best I am going to be able to do and still have the safety loop installed. I will just have to monitor it periodically for wear. It is better than it was without the cable mod.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58053&d=1472758776

I previously mentioned in the thread and it was confirmed I was sent the wrong driveshaft. I received the new (longer one) today. It fits great. I am having an issue in that it hits the Ebrake cable mounting bracket and can only turn about 1/5 a turn. I am going to address that tomorrow. SEC football starts tonight and that is big in this part of the world. Called it a day and ready to watch some games in a couple hours.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58049&d=1472757335
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58050&d=1472757344

SSNK4US

09-01-2016, 04:25 PM

Hi Scott,
I'm just a lurker at this point... Hopefully ordering a MKIV at the beginning of the year, so I'm reading EVERYBODIES builds and soaking up everything I can like the big sponge I am.
Sounds like your done with you're e-brake mod and ok with the contact with the loop? If so maybe you should protect the cable a little? Maybe a couple of short pieces of 1/8" vacuum line... Slice it open the long way and slip it over the cables.
Close it back up with something like gasket cinch or rubber cement. Or if you don't mind the look, couple of zip ties? So
when you "monitor" it periodically you can just say... Oh I better replace that piece of hose... Instead of UH OH lol
Just a thought from the lurker gallery.

Kurt
Oh and speaking of football, and I'm sure David will appreciate it.... FIGHT ON!

wareaglescott

09-01-2016, 06:52 PM

SSNK4US

09-01-2016, 07:25 PM

Lol
Sorry off topic... My next door neighbor was the starting QB for the last few years for USC
Just got drafted by Cleveland :D

wareaglescott

09-02-2016, 12:59 PM

I was able to grind away the brake cable bracket and get the needed clearance for the driveshaft to spin freely.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58119&d=1472837550

The driveshaft safety loop still infringes on the brake cables just a bit. It works just fine. I was concerned about the rubbing. Based on a suggestion and something I was thinking about I took some leftover fuel line and put it around the lines and zip tied it to stay in position. It would take a lot of wear to actually damage the brake cable now. I will just have to monitor that periodically and replace the insulation pieces as needed.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58122&d=1472837575

Now I have a new concern. The safety loop is mighty close to the spinning mass of the driveshaft.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58120&d=1472837559

In fact if I take my finger I can push the loop to make contact with the shaft. This is how it mounts from the bottom.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58121&d=1472837566

So there is a little flex in the area that comes under the 4 inch tube. Now I have no idea under normal driving how much this thing would be flexing and if it could possibly be enough that it would make contact with the driveshaft?? It certainly concerns me though. Do others with safety loops have this issue?

I am thinking of making a bracket that I would mount to the top of the loop and attach it to something in the transmission tunnel, probably a 3/4" cross brace piece in the area. This bracket would restrict the movement and make it impossible for the loop to contact the driveshaft. Of course there is some flex designed into this piece and I can only assume there may be a reason I don't know about for the flex. So good or bad idea to take the flex capability away?

After I finished that I added the transmission fluid. The directions I saw indicated you should remove the side fill plug (TKO600) and fill it until it came out that hole. I could not get that fill plug to budge. Even had my big torque wrench on it so I could get a long lever arm and it stayed put. I wondered if I could just take one of the top pieces off and pour it in there. That would be much easier and neater anyways. I called Tremec tech support and they indicated this was just fine. So that is what I did. Finally something is easy!!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58123&d=1472837587

Since I would not have the luxury of knowing when it was full by it coming out the fill hole I wanted to ensure I had the right amount so I could put a known quantity in. I asked tech support and he said 4-5 quarts. Previously I had read it is just under 3 quarts! I questioned him and he was like yes 4-5 quarts at which point I told him I had seen different elsewhere and asked him to double check. He didn't seem to pleased with me but put me on hold and came back and told me the proper amount is 5.31 pints which is 2.655 quarts. Geez you cant even trust factory tech support to give the right info sometimes! Glad I knew to ask.

edwardb

09-02-2016, 07:19 PM

All the talk about the e-brake cable bracket inspired me to clip the corner on mine today. Doubled the clearance I had previously. One less thing to worry about. For that driveshaft loop, an easy fix would be to add spacers between the bracket and the loop. I had to do that on my last build where I used the Metco piece. I think they were 1/2-inch long steel spacers from Ace. I seem to recall that was mentioned in the instructions as a possibility, but I'm not positive. You can just see them in the picture I've posted before. I would recommend this approach over some kind of bracket. You need to get it further away from the driveshaft IMO.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2656_zps098e0b89.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2656_zps098e0b89.jpg.html)

wareaglescott

09-02-2016, 09:26 PM

wareaglescott

09-03-2016, 11:15 AM

Quick update : I installed the recommended spacers and the driveshaft safety loop now has plenty of clearance all around. Another great forum tip! I added 1/2"
Also received my 3rd power steering rack from FFR because the first 2 had a bent line on them and they could not replace the line so they sent an entirely new rack. I took the good line off of rack #3 and installed it on the original rack that was already installed. Now I have 2 extra brand new racks sitting around missing a line!

Here are the spacers. Originally the bolts just threaded into the upper piece. I went ahead and added nuts as well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58140&d=1472919051

wareaglescott

09-06-2016, 03:40 PM

Last week I had posted a thread asking about the steering set screws. I took the opportunity to mock up the steering wheel and get everything straight and lined up and the set screws tightened. The car still needs to be aligned but everything is pretty close and small adjustments will be easier. Turns out I had the steering shaft onto the steering rack quite a bit out of whack when I put the wheel on. That was easy to correct while the car is still sitting on the wheel dollies.
Since I have the pedals in and the wheel was in place I decided to get the seat out and see how I fit in there. At 6'3" and 210 pounds I am pleased with the amount of room the high back kirkeys provide me. I think mounting them all the way back and on the floor will give me a couple extra inches of leg room over even the big and tall seats.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58295&d=1473193814
(still wearing my Auburn shirt even though we have the stupidest coach in America but I digress!)

I am now wondering if a removable steering wheel would be a good idea for me? With my long legs it is a little tricky getting in and out. Any cons to a removable wheel?

I am also working on the wiring harness. This is going to be the toughest part of the build for me. I just don't get it! I am sure with research and help with answers from my build mentor I will get it figured out eventually though.

Also today I was thinking about my intent to use my dads old Air Force fighter stick from the 60s as a gear shifter. I found a good stick position and came up with a plan for a linkage part. Honestly I am not sure how well it would work. Mechanically I don't know if this sort of lever arm would work all that well. Anyone have any thoughts on the design pictured below? Essentially a 5" piece that bolts onto the part coming out of the transmission and has a circular adapter that mates up with the control stick.
Basically I want to be able to have the stock shifter bolt in place or unbolt it and bolt my stick in place using the existing mount location for the shifter. I would have two complete units I could swap out. Here is a crude drawing of what I am thinking and the positioning I am thinking. Sitting in the drivers seat this was a position that felt good to me.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58288&d=1473193274
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58289&d=1473193283

wareaglescott

09-09-2016, 05:05 PM

I mounted the coyote computer today and ran the harness to it. FFR had sent me the newly designed computer bracket that mounts to the frame rails above and just forward of the passenger side footbox. Curiously the pre-drilled holes that they were nice enough to make did not even come close to lining up. Don't really understand that! You could use 2 of the 4. I decided to use the upper two and drill new ones for the lower two. I ended up putting a piece of my heat insulation between the bracket and the computer. Also the coyote instructions indicate you should have 4 bolts to mount the computer. They were not on my pack list. I called FFR and Dan indicated they should have come with the control pack. They did not. Another trip to Home Depot!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58411&d=1473457428

I hooked up the harness at the computer and ran the part that goes into the cockpit through the hole. I will have to figure out where it all goes another day. Here is the location of my hole.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58412&d=1473457438

In retrospect it would have been smart to mount all the parts associated with the harness before putting the engine in. It is going to be tight working behind the motor attaching stuff to the firewall area. I should have followed EdwardBs advice and done that first. Next build I will really have the bugs worked out!

Another forum member King was kind enough to make and send a cover plate for the hole in the drivers front footbox. I continue to be so impressed with the generosity and willingness to help from forum members. I put a hole in it and ran the front wiring harness through it. In fact he was kind enough to send me two. Amazingly I got it right the first time and as a result have one left over. I would be happy to pass on his good will and send it along if anyone needs it. Once that was done I decided I needed to drill a hole in my previously covered front area to run the hydraulic lines from the master cylinders to the triple reservoir just forward of the footbox. I ended up with one hole. I put a piece of fuel tubing around each hose as protection and then used electrical tape to hold it in a nice package. Fills the hole nicely and with the tape and fuel tubing as protection I have no worries of any chaffing on the fluid lines. Excited to have that all hooked up and am now ready to put fluid in the system and hope I don't have any leaks.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58413&d=1473457448

wareaglescott

09-12-2016, 08:57 PM

I am really excited about this update.
I had previously mentioned my intentions to use a control stick out of an Air Force fighter my dad flew in 1968 as my shifter. My dad was a pilot and so am I. He passed away earlier this year. This stick sat in his office my entire life and I remember playing with the buttons and trigger as a little kid. My mom gave me the stick after he passed and I have had it in my office since. I thought it would make a cool gear shifter but was unsure how I would accomplish getting it installed. The stick has a ton of sentimental value to me and I wanted to have something from Dad in the build. My requirements to use it where that I was not willing to modify the stick in any way and I wanted it to be easily removable so I could swap it out with a traditional shifter if I ever decide to get rid of the car or just wanted to be able to use a normal shifter.

Once again I am so thankful for the helpful folks on this forum. I had noticed forum member 2BKing was quite the fabricator in his build thread so I messaged him asking if he had any ideas. His help on this was amazing. I needed a way to link the stick up to the shifter. I gave King the measurements and what I had in mind for positioning. His first step was to computer model it and fine tune the design.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58301&d=1473267826
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58489&d=1473730753
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58432&d=1473505078

Then he produced the part for me and sent it my way. He even powder coated it!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58433&d=1473505092

All I had to do was attach the stick to the linkage King produced and bolt it to the transmission. It works perfectly. I have a video of me going through the gears but I do not know how to post videos. Here it is installed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58490&d=1473730765http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58491&d=1473730777

It won't suit everyones taste but it is special to me. The personal touches are what makes every build unique and I sure am glad to have this in the car. After sitting on the shelf for the last 48 years it will be neat for the old stick to get some use again! I am extremely grateful to King for his help. The fabrication of this part was way beyond my abilities and this is a part of the car I will be very proud off and enjoy being able to tell others about where it came from.

unrealmach1

09-12-2016, 09:20 PM

That is so awesome. I am glad you got to use the stick in your build. It is amazing how helpful and generous the Factory Five community is with other builders.

edwardb

09-12-2016, 09:39 PM

One of the coolest mods I've seen in a long time. Not just for what it is but the story and sentiment behind it. Way to go.

Awesome work by King to help you make it happen. :cool:

Misterfubar

09-12-2016, 10:12 PM

wareaglescott

09-13-2016, 05:11 AM

We've made quite a few of a very similar grip to that into retirement presents over the years. Awesome to see your Dad's put to use in your car.

...and if you ever wanted to make any of the buttons functional, I know a fella that's repaired/rewired and replaced switches in quite a few of those.

Thanks! I had thought about trying to make some stuff functional. Like the gun trigger the horn and the pipper on the top the turn signals. I decided against it because I imagine at some point I will sell the car and the stick will definitely not be sold with it and I don't want to have to rewire anything. I like that all I have to do is take two bolts out and put the standard shifter back in.

Jazzman

09-13-2016, 03:40 PM

...and if you ever wanted to make any of the buttons functional, I know a fella that's repaired/rewired and replaced switches in quite a few of those.

Excellent work! 2BKing is one of the great ones!! I see your point on not wanting to have to rewire in the event that you sell the car. Of course, it would be exceptionally cool to have working buttons on that stick . . . :rolleyes: Perhaps dual switches? permanent ones, and active ones on the stick?

M3ichael

09-13-2016, 03:56 PM

That has to one of the coolest posts I've read so far on the forum.
That would be awesome to see those buttons work.

wareaglescott

09-13-2016, 04:32 PM

wareaglescott

09-13-2016, 04:49 PM

Today I figured it would be a pretty simple task of bleeding the brakes...should of been but I have another error due to inexperience. I had everything hooked up. Had a pressure cap bleeder to make things simple and got started on the rear brakes. Poured the fluid in the reservoir and put the pressure cap on and hooked up the air hose with about 10psi. Next thing I know fluid is pouring out the top of the master cylinder and all over my footbox. Thank goodness I had the fuse box covered and none got close to that.
Once I started investigating and looking at the wilwood expanded diagram I realized there should have been an O-ring in there. It was not. IN fact when I received my kit for some reason I was sent 4 master cylinders. 2 of each size. None of the 4 had the O-ring. I called FFR and they indicated they were aware a batch had been sent out that was missing the O-rings. Now I guess it must be obvious to most an O ring should have gone in there. Looking back at it now it sure is. With my lack of experience I figured when I assembled the hookup as the directions showed and I had no parts leftover I was good to go. It is concerning to me FFR knew that some had gone out missing O-rings and did not take action to correct it. At a minimum they could post on their website to look or post on the forum about the issue. Hopefully everyone is smarter than me and knows to look. I am concerned about my coyote throttle unit that got some fluid on it. Hopefully it did not damage it. Not sure how to test it.

I had ordered the hydraulic clutch from Forte. His MC had the O-ring as pictured below. This picture is the clutch and front brake MC, the third one for the rear brakes is covered.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58503&d=1473801698

FFR did take the corrective action to send me 2 O-rings. While I wait I took the one of the clutch MC and used it and there was another one in the Forte box that came on the plastic reservoir I will not use. So I was able to use those two and get the brake master cylinders properly connected.
That allowed me to complete the brake bleeding. No problems with that. No leaks in the lines and the brakes seem to work. I will bleed the hydraulic clutch when the new O-rings show up.

Another lesson and resulting mess learned the hard way! I am going to have to build a second roadster just to put into practice all the stuff I have learned as a newbie! Enjoying learning all this. My knowledge level is certainly increasing since the start of this project.

Can someone give me a tip on how I can test the coyote throttle unit for any damage?

edwardb

09-13-2016, 06:39 PM

Congrats on getting the brakes bled and working! That's a huge step. Especially for a beginner. Sorry to hear about the o-rings. So many details, aren't there? I suspect many of us take a lot of this for granted. But these things are marketed as "anyone can do it" so little things like this can sure trip up a beginner. Way to power through it though.

Nothing that I know of to test the DBW unit now. It's reasonably well sealed, so if you got all the fluid wiped right off, probably it's OK. Once you get your Coyote wiring in place and power to the PCM, then you can test it. When you turn the key on, you hear it kind of chirp as it initializes. Than moving the pedal moves the throttle body. You can hear it moving up there, if the motor isn't running of course. I'm betting it works. Those things are pretty robust since they're a safety item.

M3ichael

09-14-2016, 12:55 PM

wareaglescott

09-14-2016, 03:19 PM

Got a lot accomplished today. I sure like putting the aluminum panels back on for the final time. Makes it look like I really accomplished a lot in one work session. haha
I had previously run the rear harness and had it held in place with zip ties per the instruction manual. I ended up adding some padded clamps riveted in and I like that better than the zip ties. I also read a good tip from EdwardB and that was to put zip ties on the two plugs attaching to the fuel tank. Holds them in place a little extra just in case.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58517&d=1473883197

After that I installed the panels in the trunk and rear cockpit wall. Read on the forum many times to install the trunk floor prior to the rear cockpit wall so the rivets were easily accessible. That is a good tip. I like the black powder coat in the trunk. Looks nice. I am not even sure if I will carpet it. Maybe some sort of black no slip material or something will work good. I will have to consider that more later.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58518&d=1473883211
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58519&d=1473883221

I received my missing O-rings from yesterday from FFR. I have had a LOT of shipping errors on their part. I will say they have been very good about correcting the mistakes. This time they were even nice enough to overnight the O-rings so I much appreciated that. Once I put the O-ring in place on the clutch master cylinder since I stole one from there yesterday to bleed the brakes I was able to bleed my hydraulic clutch. That was quite easy with just the one short run. I am quite pleased to now have fully functioning brakes and clutch.

After laying out the wiring harnesses previously I have been doing about all I can to avoid dealing with them more. That part of the build is intimidating me. I am about out of side projects and will have to jump into that soon it seems. I did however receive my alignment tools I ordered and my quick disconnect steering wheel kit so I can probably mess with those for a few more days! haha

wareaglescott

09-14-2016, 03:21 PM

You know maybe contacting Thrustmaster who make an authentic HOTAS Warthog replica. Might be a longshot but they might be able to help you get your stick operational.
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/hotas-warthog

Thanks for the link. Another thing I like about my stick is it is about the same vintage as the original Cobras. Those new sticks look really cool but I would not want them in the car. As I said I am not willing to modify mine. However if I come across another old one I might see what can be done.

Doug Cunningham

09-15-2016, 05:38 AM

Man, I know it feels like you are not moving that fast but, from my perspective you are moving really quickly. I'm new to the forum which I joined in an attempt to gain momentum towards a build. I'm currently in the throws of a 5.3 LS powered 1959 Chevy Truck and, once it's complete, I have plans to join the MK4 ranks! Don't be stingy with the pictures. I'm going to need them one day. dug

M3ichael

09-15-2016, 09:46 AM

Really like the black powder coated panels but also like Jazzman's hammered looking panels.
How durable are the black ones?

wareaglescott

09-15-2016, 09:55 AM

Really like the black powder coated panels but also like Jazzman's hammered looking panels.
How durable are the black ones?

The finish is durable but keeping them looking shiny and clean is another story. I think from a practical use standpoint Jazzman's will work out a little better. I guess it is like a black car, when it is clean it looks beautiful, keeping it that way is the trick!

6t8dart

09-15-2016, 02:41 PM

Oh man everyone wants the buttons to work! haha
The thing is that stick came out of the jet in 1968. It was probably 5-10 years old at that point. That puts it at 50+ years old currently. I cant imagine what sort of wiring is up in it. Not to mention the reason it came out of the jet in the first place is because something did not work. Dad had to put down and they replaced the stick with an operable one and that is how he ended up with it. All you can see looking into it is a multi pin connector near the base. If it was just a stick I bought off of Ebay or something I would be all about tearing into it. Being that it is my favorite thing I have left from my dad I am just not willing to attempt to modify it. Y'all do have me thinking of looking for an alternate stick though...

You could probably make it work, the connectors are common, but the pin configs are not. Your best bet would be to ignore the connector, as it is usually the cause of problems. Try to see if you can take it apart, pull the connector off the bottom, there should be enough slack in the wires to come out enough to de-solder the wires. You can use relays to trigger once you get to the wires.

wareaglescott

09-15-2016, 04:36 PM

When I put my shifter in the other day I had the seat and steering wheel in position to get a feel for the room in the cockpit. I determined with my long legs and the high sides to the kirkey seats that getting in and out was going to be tight. I decided I wanted a removable steering wheel. I ordered the kit from Breeze and worked on that today. I must say Mark provides some superior directions. This is the 4th or 5th kit/part I have purchased from him and the directions are top notch and he is also super helpful on the phone answering my questions.

The first thing that needed to be done was to weld the collar to the steering shaft. I do not weld. I cut about an inch off the end of the steering shaft as directed and went to a local welder. Cost me $50 for them to tig weld it. I think they did a very nice job. I ended up painting the part that will be visible in front of the dash black and clearing it as well. (After determining I might have overpaid for powder coating if I got ripped off on the weld job just keep it to yourself! haha I am impatient so same day service was probably worth $50)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58594&d=1473974316

I should say when I ordered my kit I selected the optional leather steering wheel. For whatever reason when it came they sent me both wheels. Not sure if that was an oversight or not. I assumed when I selected the leather it would replace the wood. Anyways I have both so decided to make them both usable. I ordered a second steering wheel adapter from Breeze. I also ordered a 2nd center finish piece from FFR so now I will be able to switch them out as the mood hits me. I'll be the guy carrying my steering wheel and shifter around the grocery store so nobody steals them! ha

When you get the adapter it is universal to many steering wheels so you have to drill and tap your own holes. Again great directions on getting this accomplished. Since I have two here is a sort of before and after. Still had to thread the last two holes on the one that is partly done.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58595&d=1473974329

Once you get the adapter drilled and tapped you attach it to the black piece that has the on/off pull to release feature and attach all that to the wheel. Since I have two complete units I went ahead and installed the finish piece and badge. Wont need to take it apart again.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58598&d=1473974366

Then you just reinstall the upper steering shaft and you are ready to go. Here it is temporarily in position. Need to get to work on that dash now! Still love seeing that shifter in the pics. I need to swap it back out for the standard one for the remainder of the build but haven't stopped admiring it yet!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58597&d=1473974354
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58596&d=1473974344

unrealmach1

09-15-2016, 08:17 PM

Man you are moving quick. The car is looking really good. I am currently stuck in inventory mode and my build class is this weekend.

wareaglescott

09-16-2016, 04:49 AM

Man you are moving quick. The car is looking really good. I am currently stuck in inventory mode and my build class is this weekend.

My work schedule is variable so I can get some stretches when I can get a lot of concentrated project time. It helps it go faster. I think ultimately I will be go carting and have to wait a couple months for the body and paint to be finished.

My first day of inventory I was having a blast. Day 2 I just wanted to be done so I could get to work! Haha. Have fun at build school. I did not go. Looking back I think it would have been useful and minimized some of my cluelessness along the way!

wareaglescott

09-16-2016, 06:34 AM

Seeing if I can figure out how to post a video.
Fighter shifter:
https://youtu.be/vaj7l1tmDoU

Removable wheel:
https://youtu.be/ZzeoJgfNGtQ

Jazzman

09-16-2016, 09:48 AM

Really like the black powder coated panels but also like Jazzman's hammered looking panels.
How durable are the black ones?

Thanks for the compliment. I do too!!

Jazzman

09-16-2016, 09:52 AM

Hey, WarEagle, slow down, enjoy the build . . . you are passing me!! It looks great. You are really doing a nice job. Love the seats and the quick disconnect wheel. Nice touch. Keep up the good work my friend!!

wareaglescott

09-16-2016, 10:48 AM

wareaglescott

09-16-2016, 03:20 PM

Hooked up the power steering lines today. Not real pleased with the results. I purchased the coyote power steering setup from FFR with my kit. Pump and rack went in no problems. When i got to the lines today I had some issues. The bends in my supplied lines did not match the pictures in the directions and routing them the way FFR did in the directions was not an option for me. I called and talked to Dan and then later called back with more questions and talked to Tony. Both of them basically said install them any way you can get them to work and "bend them with your hands if you need to you won't kink them." That may be the case but I was not real comfortable experimenting with the only line I had that I already had an initial delay getting because they were backordered.

The first issue was the line that goes from the pump to the rack. Here it is how I installed it. Looking down from the top:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58647&d=1474055505

The FFR instructions show it basically laying down on the rack and running over towards the low point in the Xtube and then coming over the top. With the metal part on mine my only option had it sticking pretty much straight up. It worked out ok but I have concerns when I get the radiator hoses and engine air inlet tube in place it is going to be in the way. Guess I will find out. Also it barely clears the radiator fan shroud. Should that be a problem?http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58648&d=1474055515

Next I had the hookup that runs from the reservoir to the rack. I mounted the reservoir on the PS F panel. That seemed to be a good spot for it. Again on this hose the formed tube part that goes into the rack was having a space conflict with the steering rack. I routed this one up also and away from the other one. This also concerns me about a potential conflict with air inlet later on.
Here you can see where the two hoses are running. I have a temporary zip tie holding the reservoir to rack hose. Once I determine if I have any space conflicts with everything else installed I will make this more permanent.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58649&d=1474055524

Here is another shot of how the two hoses come off of the rack.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58650&d=1474055534

At this point I am not very happy with how this worked out. From a functionality stand point I believe it should be fine. I just don't have a great feeling about how it all looks vs the nice tidy installation pictured in the FFR instructions.

Any input is appreciated.

M3ichael

09-16-2016, 04:00 PM

wareaglescott

09-16-2016, 04:57 PM

Hey wareaglescott,
Your posts have been very helpful.
Been lurking on some of the build forums and have some concerns about the parts that come from FFR missing, being incorrect size or just the wrong one. They seem to not ship the complete kit and just send what they got which is understandable but its seem the owner has to follow up and not the other way round. Read some posts where shipping boxes appear from FFR unexpectedly and work has to be re-done, sometimes not so easy.
Tracking this issues with the customers seems to be a bit off and not to mention probably really tedious. I will say from what I've read FFR are very helpful in getting your issue resolved and that's kinda reassuring but the bend it with your hands comment from the post above is a little concerning as well. Why don't they just send you the correct part? No questions.

I'll keep reading and taking notes, measure twice, check the manual, take a pic, check the forums, call FFR and then cut.

I have definitely had my fair share of shipping errors. I'm not a huge fan of paying for everything up front and it getting to you when it gets to you. I am a type A control freak by nature so I was very proactive on checking up on backordered parts on a regular basis. Whether or not it got me anything quicker I have no idea but at least I knew they were aware of what I needed. For whatever FFR lacks in shipping efficiency they make up for in customer service. I have 2 backorders parts remaining but won't need them until final assembly.

Also another point about some of my concerns/complaints I mention in my thread. My previous automotive experience was rotating tires or an oil change. This was a pretty big leap for me. In my opinion the instruction manual leaves a LOT to be desired. However it is probably not written for someone of my experience level. There is no way I could build this thing without a couple of experienced build mentors that I have leaned on heavily with countless questions. The generosity and help from people on this forum is spectacular. Every step of the way is brand new for me. I am sure if/when I build a second one I will have much less issues with the instructions and parts and will know just what to do.

Last thing, with regards to the power steering hoses I believe they sent me the correct parts. I found the directions particularly poor for these and I think they used the same hoses but did a considerable amount of bending to make them work as pictured and they completely failed to mention that. I am really gun shy about bending the tubes particularly since they had to send 3 power steering racks before I got one that didn't have one of the preinstalled tubes bent and kinked up. I made it work without bending. If that turns out to be a problem where I have them positioned I will have to rethink my install.

Anyone with more automotive experience will definitely have an easier go and think the directions are more adequate. I do enjoy the learning process.

M3ichael

09-16-2016, 05:22 PM

You hit on something I've been thinking about is the instruction manual. Coming from a really inexperienced level as well, would like to see a merger of the instruction manual and all the helpful tips, tricks, do this don't do that, recommendations etc. Wonder if it could be done on the forum or might have been already attempted. Updating would be easy as the forum members are really helpful with this. Factory Five MK4 build for Dummies..... a reference book for the rest. :confused:

I've already learned so much in a little bit of time since I've been here on the forum. Referencing and trying to remember where was that post later on in the build would certainly help.

wareaglescott

09-19-2016, 01:24 PM

I started working on the coyote harness this morning. This is a challenging step for me as I do not have a good understanding of wiring, I am just going to take it slow. I started with cutting out three unused connectors for the supercharger intercooler and a pair for air conditioning. Not much to show here in pictures as it is mainly just running wires.

Here is the computer hooked up to the two main harnesses. I have some tie wraps temporarily holding it to the frame rail until I am sure I won't have to move the wires again and then I plan to use some padded clamps to permanently attach it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58769&d=1474308391

I do have one area of concern. The directions specify to route the wires away from heat sources as much as possible. The plug into the alternator is very close to the header. I would say about 1/2". There is nothing I can do about the position. Is there anything I can do to provide additional heat protection to the wires? Some sort of wrap or something?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58766&d=1474308351

Did not get a lot done today. Have to travel for the next couple days. Back at it Thursday.

unrealmach1

09-20-2016, 03:59 AM

wareaglescott

09-20-2016, 06:37 AM

You could try this product to protect the wires from your exhaust.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hsp-204002?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-heatshield-products&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvIO_BRDt27qG3YX0w4wBEiQAsGu3efnKFkYM INXTcjlMb-KDM2qaIDams7vqEkcFPgOvOTYaAjSM8P8HAQ

Thank you. That looks like a good possibility! I was just about to post a question on the regular board for a little more visibility but this looks like a winner.

wareaglescott

09-22-2016, 06:05 PM

After a couple good suggestions relating to my previous concern about the alternator plugs proximity to the headers I decided on an aluminum tape product from summit that provides protection up to 2000 degrees. I think that should be sufficient. I am satisfied that it should not be an issue now. I also found a couple other areas on the harness that I wrapped for some additional heat protection.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58888&d=1474571219

After that I ended up doing the power wiring forward of the firewall. I incorporated a master cutoff switch. Not much to show in pictures. I followed EdwardB's build thread pretty much exact and he did a great job documenting that. I did make my own harness for the battery cable, starter cable, and ground. I had never done anything like that so I was proud how that worked out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58896&d=1474584390

I did use the Breeze forward battery mount so that made the runs a little easier and I was able to cut a lot of length out of the provided harness.

My next goal is to plumb the cooling system, heater and redo the power steering lines. I had previously mentioned my dissatisfaction with the provided power steering lines. I couldn't live with it so I ended up ordering some stainless braided lines and fittings from Breeze. My goal is to finish everything up forward of the firewall and then work back to the dash and cockpit wiring.

wareaglescott

09-23-2016, 12:00 PM

Doing a couple small projects today.
I took out my previously installed power steering hoses I was unhappy with. Parts to make the new ones come today. It is amazing how it took hours to figure out a way to get them in and 3 minutes to get them out!

I had previously run one engine ground when I was installing the forward battery tray. I read it was good practice to have a 2nd ground. I used the one in the kit and mounted it to a bolt on the front of the engine just above the oil pan and ran it to the engine mount frame piece. This picture is from below.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58913&d=1474649303

After that I was working on the coyote harness. I had previously hooked up the portion in the engine compartment except the cooling fan and the clip that goes into the air intake as those are not in place yet. Today I worked on the cockpit portion. I am scared to death of the day I have to do any work in the upper drivers footbox area. That area is scary full!!

Couple questions:
1. I mounted the OBD port here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58914&d=1474649317

No dash in place yet. Does this location look to be any problem when everything else is in position?

2. The next part of the coyote install is the 16 pin connector. The instructions call for soldering the wires. I have never soldered before. Is it a must or is a butt connection with heat shrink an acceptable alternative?

wareaglescott

09-24-2016, 01:43 PM

No progress to report today.
I am excited that my custom fender badges showed up in the mail today. 3 months to the day from when I ordered them. They are very nice. Cant wait to put them on the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58967&d=1474742454

wareaglescott

09-26-2016, 04:18 PM

Continuing to work on wiring. Today I worked on the coyote pigtail. Also I needed a harness from the cockpit area running down the left side of the motor with hookups for the tach, alternator, water temp, and oil pressure.

I ran it down the left top side of the motor where it will be hidden by the engine cover.
First stop after coming through the firewall was the #7 cylinder to splice into the wire to make the tach work. Thanks to great directions from Edward B this was quite easy. First time I have ever used a splice piece like this. It seemed simple enough. Hopefully it will work. I know I will have to calibrate the tach when I get it running. After the pic I wrapped it nicely in electrical tape to match everything else and protect it some.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59053&d=1474923228

After that I went around to the alternator. I am attaching the harness to some of the other wiring harnesses along that route with zip ties. The oil pressure and water temp senders are quite close to the headers. I have no idea how heat sensitive these items are so I may have gone overboard on the aluminum heat tape. It will ultimately be tucked in so you won't really see this portion of the harness. I just had it sitting like this for the picture. You can see the hookups for the alternator, oil pressure and water temp.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59054&d=1474923241

After that I needed to hook up to the oil pressure sender. Unfortunately the bolts on the end of it were pretty delicate and one broke requiring me to take the sending unit out. That was the end of the harness running for today. I must give factory five credit as they already have another one on the way to me.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59055&d=1474923253

Luckily right after I realized I was dead in the water on that project UPS showed up with the bus bar I ordered. Mounted that up and hooked it up.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59056&d=1474923265

UPS also brought me the last fitting I was waiting on so I could finish up my redone power steering lines. Much happier with them now. They are all hooked up and I have on my short term project list to put the fluid in and bleed the system. Hopefully tomorrow or the next day I can do that.

Duke

09-26-2016, 06:45 PM

Before you button up your wiring around the alt. check you J-pipe fittings on the driver side. You may run into the same issue I have (J-pipe flange hitting the motor mount). It's easier to grind a notch with the wires out of the way.

Jeff Kleiner

09-26-2016, 07:24 PM

UPS also brought me the last fitting I was waiting on so I could finish up my redone power steering lines. Much happier with them now. They are all hooked up and I have on my short term project list to put the fluid in and bleed the system. Hopefully tomorrow or the next day I can do that.

Good to hear that the fittings and hoses worked out :)

Jeff

wareaglescott

09-27-2016, 03:13 PM

Finished up the power steering and got the system bled. I had previously mentioned my dissatisfaction with the hoses in the FFR coyote power steering kit. I got some stainless braided hoses with a black coating on them from Breeze as well as the needed fittings. It ended up being a couple hundred more but I think worthwhile. I guess at this point $200 isn't going to matter much!

I got a great tip from Jeff Kleiner on putting a 3/8' hex bit in the drill and turning the pump to bleed the system. Worked great and one less thing to worry about when first start time comes around. I had to remove the forward battery to get the drill in place.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59091&d=1475005784

Here is a picture of where the lines and reservoir ended up. Lot of black in there so it kind of blends together.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59094&d=1475005825

After that I went to work on the wiring some more. I actually got done with everything I can do until the dash is in place. I guess that means I better get to work on that.
It is certainly not pretty but here is everything crammed in the upper footbox area. Zip tied the lines in place so there is no interference with the steering shaft or master cylinders.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59092&d=1475005796

Here is everything left over that has been cut out of the harness so far. Thanks to EdwardB for numerous messages coaching me through it. The forward battery location seemed to simplify some of the runs and contributed a fair amount of bulk to this box.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59096&d=1475005860

I do have a question. I learned another rookie lesson. I had some ground wires running through a nice hole in the upper area of the footbox. Thought I was pretty slick putting them there until I realized that was the hole used for the windshield mounting! I moved the grounds out of the hole and around the side. Is this location going to cause me any issue with how the windshield mounts? Haven't even taken it out of the box to look but I am hoping if I am away from the holes I should be good.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59093&d=1475005813

One frustrating bit today. I had ordered the coyote air intake kit from summit. It is packaged as a kit for FFR coyotes. When I went to install the air filter it is a good 2" to long. The pic has it sitting above the frame rail. I know it does not mount that way but I was just putting it like that to show the excess length in the picture. There is no possible way this will fit. I went to look at summit and there were even reviews it was to long. I guess I should have been more careful about reading the reviews before ordering but I assumed if something is specifically packaged for our cars it would all work. I have a shorter K&N on the way from summit.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59070&d=1474997881

Working on the heater install now. What a pain in the rear. Kind of wish I would not have even ordered it but now that I have my firewall chopped up I will press on and hope for the best!

wareaglescott

09-28-2016, 04:29 PM

Today my intentions were to mount my expansion tank and run the upper and lower radiator hoses.
I made 3 brackets for the expansion tank and mounted it up. I was concerned about how much room I needed for the hood hinges so I put it as far over as I could get it without it interfering with the air intake tube. Real happy with how that went.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59129&d=1475096061

After that I did the final mount of the radiator and moved on to the upper and lower radiator hoses. I bought the parts from Breeze for each of these. I was having trouble to get them to line up. I have the newer radiator with the angled outlets. I have never had any problems with Breeze parts before so I was surprised to be having issues. After a couple calls to Mark at Breeze and emailing him some pictures he determined I had installed my radiator upside down!! UGGHH what a pain that was. I had no idea but the outlets need to be pointing up and mine were pointing down. Not sure how I missed that but there are no pictures of the newer radiator in the build manual for reference. To make things worse I had the breeze upper and lower radiator mount kits and the fan shroud. All of that stuff took me a couple hours to drill out the rivets and redo and remount. I really appreciate how Mark supports his products. Highly recommend dealing with him.

So anyways a couple hours later that was done and the upper and lower hoses went on no problem just as they should. Also hooked up the hoses to the expansion tank except for one that is on backorder and should be here next week.

I also was able to mount up the air intake. I must give summit credit. About 16 hours after I called and complained about the other one being to long to fit in the car a new one showed up on my doorstep. They sure can ship quickly!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59130&d=1475096073

Really liking seeing the engine bay near completion. Hopefully a couple more weeks and this thing will start making some noise!

wareaglescott

09-29-2016, 03:59 PM

Not much to report today as the majority of the day was devoted to yard work.
I did receive a package I was waiting on with the weather pack connectors. I am using them on the fan plug and lights on the advice of my build mentor. The last remaining electrical item I had in the engine compartment was to hook up the fan so I did want to take care of that today.

Lesson of the day - the weather pack connectors are pretty slick but as usual for me there is a learning curve! Should have ordered some extra male and female connectors over what I needed. I messed a couple up figuring out how to crimp them as every instructional video and online source I could find showed a different style crimp tool than the one I ordered and mine has some numbers on it and no directions. It is all figured out now and want I wanted to accomplish was a simple plug for the fan which I got done. I will have to order more for the lights but whats a couple dollars more for shipping! ha
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59161&d=1475182677

I do have a question:
I am letting the coyote computer control the fan. So I had the power wire coming into the weather pack from the coyote harness. I know I also need a ground wire coming into the weather pack. On the Ron Francis harness there were three wires for the fan. One was a ground wire. Even though I am not using the other two wires can I still use that ground wire? I assume it is going back to a ground point somewhere? Should I have just grounded a wire right in the vicinity of the fan and ran that to the plug instead of using the pre-existing wire in the harness?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59162&d=1475182689

grluisi150

09-30-2016, 11:15 AM

The engine ground point is under the passenger side motor mount, that's what I used for my fan.

Gary

wareaglescott

09-30-2016, 04:28 PM

Today I worked on mounting the dash. I wanted it to be removable and I did not want to see screws going through the dash covering material. As usual I followed Edwardb's lead. While looking on McMaster for some mounting options I came across these:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59191&d=1475269820

They are called aligning weld nuts and are for a 10-32 screw. I drilled the holes in the flat parts for rivets. I liked these because the nut has the ability to angle and move a little so it just gives you a little room for error when installing them. The back of it is a square housing. It was a real pain to get them in the 3/4 tube but it ended up working out great. Once you tighten down the bolt there is no play. I drilled a hole then filed it out to allow the square to fit up in the tube. Then put some JB Weld on the flat parts and put a rivet through each side. I am quite confident it will not be moving.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59192&d=1475269832
I had previously cut some angle iron in 2" pieces. My plan was to mount that to the back of the dash and the aligning weld nut. Then with an extension on a hex socket I can just reach up and unscrew the dash.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59194&d=1475269859
I mounted them in locations that should be easy enough to access. Well as easy as possible I guess in the congested area once all the wires are in place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59195&d=1475269871
Here is the dash mounted. You can see the 6 bolts attaching the angle iron to the dash. I just have the stock thin dash so I did not really have the option of countersinking the bolt heads to sit flush. I did get some real low profile bolts and they are close to flush. I am going to mess with the foam padding on the dash covering material and hopefully they will not be visible unless you know right where to look.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59193&d=1475269847
I used the stock dash supports that came with the kit. They were previously powder coated when I had everything else done. Put a couple rivet nuts in the part that connects to the lower dash lip.

This took me all day but really pleased how it came out. I am really slow on the jobs that require very tight precision for the parts to line up perfectly. Now with 7 10-32 bolts I can take the dash of if needed and I won't have to have screws showing on the face of the dash.

Stork

10-01-2016, 02:13 PM

SSNK4US

10-01-2016, 03:18 PM

I'm just lurking right now... Hopefully a March order (actually my wife's goal) :) But I've been reading most every build I can get my eyes on. I've been taking notes as what I want to do, need to do, when not to follow the manual, dash types and layouts, hydraulic or cable clutch, cable or rod throttle linkage, door panels, bodywork, etc etc yada yada bla bla...
EVERYTHING!!! Pros and cons (IMO) wants verses needs, special tools, breeze, fortes, etc...
Anyway..... There are lots of build threads... And soon to be some crazy detailed one by me lol But I've actually thought about putting something together like that... Probably not until after my build... But maybe something with things all in one place? Not having to search different threads? Just something I've been thinking about....

Kurt

SSNK4US

10-01-2016, 05:59 PM

WOW great job and ingenuity on the dash mounting. It's great thoughts and ideas like that shared on here that continue to make builds better and better. Little things make a big difference.

wareaglescott

10-02-2016, 01:47 PM

I mounted the horns. I was not happy with the instruction manual using 2 sheet metal screws to mount them. I ended up using a flush mounted bolt, lock washer and nut running through from the inside running through the individual horn mounts
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59268&d=1475432481

I had originally ordered a heater and mounted the unit on the firewall. As it has come time to plumb it and wire it I was having doubts if I really wanted it. I have gotten mixed reviews on the effectiveness. I was not happy with the space it was taking up. I wasn't liking where the hoses where going to mount. I didn't like the look of the piece that would be on the dash. The last straw was I found out with the coyote you need to plumb in a bypass valve not included with the kit because the motor needs constant flow through the heater hoses into the motor. The way the FFR unit works is when the heater is off the fluid is not flowing. An electrically driven bypass valve that seemed to be the best option was another $100. I decided just to pull the unit out and I will install seat heaters instead.

I do regret hacking up the firewall to mount the heater. I made a cover plate and will get it powder coated to match. Hopefully it will blend in ok. It is not optimal but there is so much going on in the engine compartment with the coyote crammed in there I don't think it will be to bad.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59271&d=1475432524

Since I was not using the heater I now needed to connect the heater inlet and outlet so fluid could flow between them. On a side note the FFR coyote install instructions just say to cap off these. Ford recommends a hose and my trusted build mentor did as well so I thought it was prudent to go that route. I am not sure how FFR justifies just capping these off?? I have deviated quite a bit on the cooling system anyways vs what FFR recommends. I am more of a factory set up and feel good about that.

I had previously ordered the ford heater hoses recommended to use with the heater. They had the OEM connections needed on one end of each hose. The one on the PS was 5/8" ID and the DS was 3/4" ID. Ford also recommends a 5/16" restriction in the line. I have no idea why but one was built into the hose that attached to the DS. I ended up cutting both hoses and joining them to make my needed hose. The DS hose was cut beyond the 5/16" restrictor. I purchased a 3/4 to 5/8 coupler and joined the two hoses. Should work out nicely. This was definitely not the cheap way to go about this as those heater hoses were not cheap. However since I had them on hand I figured I'd blown enough on this aborted heater so I might as well use them.
Here is the built in restrictor and the completed hose:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59269&d=1475432493
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59270&d=1475432513

I am still waiting for one hose that is in transit and 2 fittings to tap into the air intake. Once those get in I will have everything forward of the firewall complete in preparation for first start.

If anyone is looking for a heater unit I now have a mounted but never used unit for sale I will make a good deal on. All parts are there and it is in like new condition other than a little silicone residue where I attached it to the firewall as directed.

wareaglescott

10-03-2016, 04:52 PM

Sort of reached a milestone today. I was waiting for a couple hoses and fittings. They showed up today and were installed. With that everything forward of the firewall is officially complete and ready for first start! Now I just need to get the dash finished up and hooked up and I will be ready to make some noise!

Here she sits ready to come to life:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59311&d=1475530399
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59312&d=1475530411

After that I started to work on the dash. I determined the locations for the various switches. I ordered some different switches and a couple with guarded covers like in an airplane. They will match my fighter stick shifter.

I am working on glueing the cover material on. I am a little skeptical of the kit supplied cover. I may be upgrading this soon. At least the dash will be removable so that will be a pretty easy project at some point in the future.

I did get in a little trouble as my wife came home from school (she is a teacher) and wanted to work out in the gym and I told her I was using all of her small weights! haha They worked good to get that bottom edge to stick nicely.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59313&d=1475530423

wareaglescott

10-05-2016, 06:19 PM

Put the car on the ground for the first time today. Man she sits low!! I wanted to set the ride height. I read 4.5" was a good height but the car settles a bit after driving some. I figured I would start at 5.5". I saw a tip on the forum that three 2x4s under the frame rail works good to get the 4.5". I did that plus I put another one through the planer and slimmed it down to 1". That gave me 5.5" and then when I am ready for 4.5" I will just unwrap the tape and take the 1" piece away. I made 4 little blocks held together with blue tape. One for each corner.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59373&d=1475708036

I did put 100 lbs in the trunk area to simulate some fuel. Obviously the body and seats aren't there but this was a good initial setting and I can tweak it later as needed. The new low profile jack worked out great. Wish I would have realized when I started this project the normal jack I bought was going to be useless because in the full down position it is about 6" tall!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59372&d=1475708025

After that I spent a considerable amount of time doing the dash wiring. Everything is hooked up. It aint pretty behind the dash but I am as confident as possible it will all work as expected. I did add a couple red guarded switches to go with my fighter stick shifter (stock shifter currently installed until the build is complete and I put the other shifter back in). I am pleased how the dash came out. The foam material on the dash pad was not as forgiving as I hoped and I can clearly see where my hidden dash mount bolts are. I am a little disappointed in that. It still looks better than screws through the face in my opinion but I may need to revisit that later and redo the dash pad.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59375&d=1475708060

My plan is to check everything over tomorrow morning and attempt to crank it up in the afternoon. Hoping she fires up!!

wareaglescott

10-06-2016, 07:11 PM

Started the coyote up today!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3GbTL3IFZg

She cranked right up on the first try. Oil pressure, voltage, water temp all looked good. Fan kicked on as expected on the second run that was a little longer. Prior to starting this morning when I was testing the electrics and the fuel pump kicked on I had a small fuel leak. I got that taken care of by tightening down the connection. I had previously pressurized the power steering system so did not worry about that. Prior to first start it took 2.2 gallons of coolant. After running for a couple minutes I stopped and the tank was still pretty full. I ended up putting the remainder of the 3rd gallon in. I am expecting it to take more because I have the exact same setup as EdwardB and he took about 3.75 gallons. I will monitor that to see where it goes.

I have the FFR shorty headers. Loved the way it sounded although it was just low RPM. I have a feeling out on the road it will be screaming. I have been doing some reading about a tune required with the different air intake and exhaust.

I have been in contact with a tuner who advised me that "It’ll run lean with that 4” maf, FYI. It has ~40% increased area compared to what the Ford Racing tune is setup for.". I have an older SCT X3 tuner I use to read fault codes on my F150 as well as a tune it has. That would not work to read the codes on the newer motor. I went ahead and ordered the X4 tuner today and he is installing a base tune that will compensate for the increased airflow. Then after I am driving it I will send him data and he will make me a custom tune. This is not a cheap endeavor. $775 for the tuner and custom tune. I feel it is a worthwhile investment. Something to look into though for Coyote builders for sure.

After a couple runs just monitoring things I pulled it the 15' or so back into the garage. The clutch and gas pedal where pretty sensitive. I really wanted to take off so I just took it real easy and babied it in. I have a list of items to accomplish before I want to go cart although my neighbor buddy is already bugging me to drive him around. haha All in good time.

Also today my Drummer Mike's polished heat shields showed up. I installed them in about 15 minutes. Went on really easy. I figured it is never to early to be careful about the burns. Everyone won't like them but I really like how they look. Basically there is a piece of header wrap around the pipe then an offset bracket attached by a clamp so no part of the heat shield is touching the pipe. I am sure they will still get warm but I believe they will help a fair amount.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59430&d=1475797656

SSNK4US

10-06-2016, 08:05 PM

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!! Sounds good!!!!!! GREAT job Scott!!!!!!

wareaglescott

10-06-2016, 08:46 PM

Quick update- I went back down and checked the coolant level after it had cooled. Now I have put 3.5 gallons in.
Also interestingly I realized today was 100 days since delivery. Good day for a first start.

Garry Bopp

10-06-2016, 09:59 PM

Scott,

I'm really impressed with your progress!! The motor sounds and looks great!

Garry

WIS89

10-06-2016, 10:26 PM

Well done Scott!

The engine sounds great! The coyote engines have a really nice sound to them.

100 days to first start is good work. Very nice progress. I look forward to seeing some video of you in the neighborhood, you know, just testing things...

Regards,

Steve

M3ichael

10-06-2016, 10:46 PM

That first start must have felt really good. Congrats!

Jazzman

10-07-2016, 01:22 AM

Excellent Job Scott! Congratulations! 100 days is really impressive. You certainly have left me in the dust! I guess it is time to update the old signature line: First start: October 6, 2016! How soon is your body going to be done? You could be driving this thing by Christmas.

Jeff Kleiner

10-07-2016, 04:51 AM

Congrats on reaching the milestone Scott!

Jeff

Dave Howard

10-07-2016, 03:01 PM

I love the 1st start vids. All the time and effort invested to get to that stage....the anticipation....the anxiety. And the beautiful thing about the Coyote is VROOM. No worries. My 2012 Coyote is still screaming after 30,000. Gotta do another

wareaglescott

10-07-2016, 04:52 PM

Update on the tuning. After my previous post about the tuner indicating with the 4" inlet tube the volume would be 40% more and the engine would run lean it got me wondering if that could be correct. 40% sure seems like a lot. I mentioned this to EdwardB and he made the astute observation that we had installed the 3.5" reducer in to the inlet tube as part of the FFR coyote instructions. I had completely forgot about this. My error was I did not communicate to the tuner initially that the reducer was in place and he programmed the tune accordingly for the 4" inlet. He was correct about the 40% increase in volume but that was not the actual case because of the reducer. Now he is going to update the tune for me to reflect the 3.5" inlet and then I will be able to upload it to the car.

When I ordered the tune the tuner requested some information:
engine and transmission type, rear end and transmission gearing, and any mods to the stock coyote setup. I listed the air intake (but left out the part about the reducer) and the exhaust pipe set up.
With that information he programs a base tune onto the device which I will upload to the car. After the car is running I will send him some data logs for some runs under specified scenarios and he will then tweak the tune to create the custom tune.
I have used custom tunes previously on a Mustang Gt and my current F150. The Mustang was great. The F150 I have not been real impressed with. The main reason I got it was because I put big tires on it and I wanted to be able to calibrate the speedo. This tune is the first one I will have ever needed to send data back for the tune to be fine tuned. I like that extra part of the procedure and think this will work out well.

wareaglescott

10-08-2016, 10:33 AM

Had a little time this morning before college football takes over the rest of my day.

I purchased a nice looking fire extinguisher and mounting bracket from summit. I figure the most likely time for a fire is during go cart stage so I wanted to have it with me. I went ahead a made a temporary mount. I was deciding between two locations. The first was between the seats and the second was under the dash on the transmission tunnel. Visually I liked between the seats the best. However I had two concerns. With the high back seats and the side bolster I was afraid I would have a hard time reaching the pull pin to get it out of the bracket if I needed it quickly (and if you need it when is it not needed quickly!). My other concern was when I use my fighter stick shifter my elbow might run into it. I decided to mount it under the dash. Just used some extra aluminum and a few rivets for now. I think I like it there and it will look good on the completed transmission tunnel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59496&d=1475940161

After that I went to install the roll bars. Previously I was aggravated FFR had sent me two for the PS and none for the DS. Today I am very thankful I only had one to install. What a serious pain in the rear task that was. I am going to need a few days and some other projects in between before I go to do the other one. That roll bar is a bear to drill through. I used the suggestion in the manual to start with a small bit and work my way up to 5/16. I need to invest in a drill bit sharpener. I used 3 different size bits per hole and ended up using about 12 drill bits total to get the 4 holes done. With a trip to home depot in the middle for more bits it ended up taking 2 hours for something I figured would take 20 minutes. Oh well. I guess I know what I am in for on the next one. Here is a pic. Nothing exciting but after 2 hours I was taking a pic!!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59497&d=1475940173

SSNK4US

10-09-2016, 03:34 PM

wareaglescott

10-09-2016, 04:19 PM

Couple of thoughts if you revisit your dash cover install.... Do you think rivets would show under the covering?
I know the material is pretty thin to countersink larger bolts, but what if you bonded you brackets to the dash with something like jb weld and countersunk some smaller, like say 4-40 model airplane sized stuff.
Just a thought...

Kurt
Kurt

Good thoughts. I do not think rivets would show or if they did they would be so small you would really have to look for them. My concern was because of obstacles to getting at the bolts that attach it to the top rail I was only able to use 3 brackets. I would have preferred 4 or maybe 5. Because of that I went with a more substantial nut and bolt. I honestly had no idea if smaller rivets would be strong enough long term. Here is where I put them:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59194&d=1475269859

It is my understanding the body lip kind of comes down over the dash a little bit. I am hoping that will disguise it even a little more. My plan is to wait until I get the body on and see what I think. It is one of those things I am extra critical of because I did it and know it is there. All my neighbors and friends that have been by don't even notice it until I point it out. Although I am sure most FFR guys would.

wareaglescott

10-11-2016, 05:34 PM

I have spent the last couple days messing with my X4 tuner. It has been unable to communicate with the PCM. My MIL light has been lit with no way of reading it plus my custom tune was not able to load.

After spending 6 hours the last two days on the phone with Ford, SCT, and the tune programmer going around in circles I believe I have finally found the issue. This afternoon the guy from Ford called me and asked me to go to my OBD plug and tell him what color wire was going into port 6 and 14. Apparently they sent a batch of harnesses out that had them backwards. One was white and one was white/blue. 14 should be the solid white. Well guess what my harness is one of the ones that is incorrect! They said that is why no device I plug in (I tried 3) can communicate with the PCM.
Now my issue is getting the wires out of the OBD plug to swap them. It needs a tool similar to the weather pack pin removal tool. I ordered a tool that Ford speculates should work. Hopefully that will solve my issue. Not sure how many harnesses went out wrong but I suspect others will have a frustrating time figuring this out!

It will be the weekend before I have a chance to try it out.

Between phone calls I had to get something productive done. I put the 2nd roll bar on. Glad to be done with all that drilling.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59590&d=1476223943

Also yesterday I got started on the alignment. Got the rear end done. Working on the front. I will have some picture updates on that process in a future update.

Jazzman

10-11-2016, 07:16 PM

All my neighbors and friends that have been by don't even notice it until I point it out. Although I am sure most FFR guys would.

So stop pointing it out!! :cool:

SSNK4US

10-11-2016, 10:33 PM

Lol Jazzman, but I think I'd be asking my friends and neighbors too.

Speaking of alignments.... (and mounting and balancing tires) Not mentioning who I independently work for, but I have a box truck and a garage with high end tire mounting and balancing equipment. Along with an aligner for demonstration purposes. Not speaking for the other 300 plus guys like me out there across the U.S. and Canada...but I've mounted lots of new tires for friends and neighbors... Cars, street rods etc. I'm a gear head... A nice guy and willing to do lots for my fellow man...LOL Some of you might be able to reach out to my counterparts for alignment help and such. Not all are like me but I know some are helpful... PM me for more thoughts and details.

Kurt

wareaglescott

10-15-2016, 11:47 AM

I installed the 5 point harnesses today...sort of. On advice of many I was told to not even try to mount the high back kirkey seats until the body was on the car because of the way the upper outside side bolster interacts with the body. With that in mind I determined my safest course of action for go carting was to have the 5 point harness hold me and the unattached seat in position. The seats and harnesses will be coming back out numerous times but that will be very easy now.

I decided a while back after seeing a friends car that I wanted some colored belts. I went with orange to go with my orange stripe. I sold the black harnesses that came with the kit without ever opening the box so I am not sure how those Simpson belts would have attached.
The harnesses I got are made by Cipher. They have eyelets that attach to the mounting points and the the individual belt just clips on and off. Makes it very easy now that the eyelet is mounted to take the belts in and out of the car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59727&d=1476548394

I attached 4 of them to the FFR mounting locations and determined a spot in the floor to mount the 5th one for the crotch strap. Even though the seat position is not fixed right now I know it is close enough that the point in the floor I used will work out just fine.

I also had some leftover edges from those thick foam floor tiles that interlock. I cut them up and just temporarily placed them for the seat to sit on. Should be about the same thickness as the insulation and carpet.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59728&d=1476548405

Here is the finished install. Really happy I went with the orange. I like the extra color accent! I guess because the mounting locations are all quite close to the seat I ended up with an excessive amount of extra belt length. For now I have it tapped up. I intend to find someone to cut and sew them to an appropriate length.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59729&d=1476548416

Jeff Kleiner

10-15-2016, 07:15 PM

...I ended up with an excessive amount of extra belt length. For now I have it tapped up. I intend to find someone to cut and sew them to an appropriate length.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59729&d=1476548416

I really like the contrasting belts Scott; they look great! Regarding eliminating the excess....If the belt material is like the Simpsons rather than having to sew them after cutting you can just cauterize the end by running the tip of a soldering iron across it. This seals the nylon over so that it doesn't unravel. Experiment and give it a try!

Jeff

wareaglescott

10-15-2016, 07:22 PM

I really like the contrasting belts Scott; they look great! Regarding eliminating the excess....If the belt material is like the Simpsons rather than having to sew them after cutting you can just cauterize the end by running the tip of a soldering iron across it. This seals the nylon over so that it doesn't unravel. Experiment and give it a try!

Jeff

Ok thanks Jeff. I have a substantial amount of excess so I can cut near the end and give it a shot. I like the price of that option!!

wareaglescott

10-16-2016, 02:18 PM

Worked on aligning the front this morning. Previously I had set the rear toe and camber.

I purchased some toe plates, a laser level and the Fast Trax 91000 tool with the no lip adapters.
The first issue I had was with the 18" wheels and the fast trax tool at full extension it was just a little short for the adapters to grab the lip of the wheel. I went ahead and made an extension so it would fit out of some spare metal I had. Also to make sure I did not throw off the angle at all I added some shims on the bottom two pieces so everything was equal.
Here is my extension:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59767&d=1476643188

My first step was to use the toe plates and get the toe in set. I knew the other adjustments would change this setting but I wanted to get it close. I was shooting for 1/16" toe in.
Once the toe was close I set the camber at - .5 degrees. Again I knew adjusting the others would throw this off but cycling through camber then caster seemed to get me closer each time to the final settings.
Next I worked on caster. This is a little more tricky. The end of the fast trax tool is angled at 15 degrees. Basically you turn the front of the wheel out 15 degrees. Then set the level to 0 and then turn the front of the wheel in 15 degrees and you can adjust the upper control arms until you get your desired caster angle. With power steering I was shooting for 8 degrees. The problem with the tool end is it is about 3/4" long and trying to judge 15 degrees with any measure of accuracy is difficult. I came up with what I believe was a pretty good system.

First I taped some leftover wood trim on the ends so I could get a little better visual indication of where I was at in relation to straight:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59768&d=1476643202

Here the tool is attached to the wheel. You can see where I added the extension and shims to accommodate the 18" wheels:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59769&d=1476643213

To figure out the 15 degrees I ended up turning the toe plates upside down and placing them along the inside of the wheel. I determined exactly straight by using a fixed point from the frame and measured in both directions. Then I marked that line on the garage floor with a sharpie. Then I got out my angle measuring device and set it up for 15 degrees and marked a line of off the center line 15 degrees in both directions. I marked both of those lines with the sharpie. Then I was able to turn the wheels and measure the resulting distance from the line drawn to the toe plate. I evened it up until the measurement was equal all the way down the line. Here the wheel is turned out. You can see the 3 lines I drew and I am measuring the distance from the toe plate to the 15 degree out line:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59770&d=1476643224

I feel this was as accurate as I could get at home with no advanced equipment. Basically I cycled through toe in, camber, and then caster and each rotation it seemed to get closer and closer to what I was looking for. Since one movement affects the others I think this is the only way to go. It was time consuming but ultimately I think the alignment is quite good. I later validated this with the tracking on my go cart ride. Car tracked perfectly straight with no wandering one way or another. That was a short validation though. I may take the car in for professional alignment once I get it done. I will have to see how it feels and the tires are wearing in the future. Really happy I tried this at home.

I did come across one issue during alignment. I appreciate Jeff Kleiner taking the time for a phone call to help me out mid process. Once again the generosity of this community is spectacular.
To get the 8 degrees of caster on the drivers side I was very close to running out of adjustability on the rear upper control arm. When I got over to the passenger side at first I could only achieve about 6 degrees. Jeff has previously mentioned this possibility and the need to trim the adjustment sleeve a little to make it work. I thought I was going to need to do this on the PS. Turns out when I cycled through the other measurements I was able to achieve 8 degrees without modification. I am essentially at full adjustment though and can go no further. Once I get the body on and the ride height changes I will revisit the alignment and may need to make some further modifications.

After the alignment was done I was ready for my first go cart. I went through and checked all the fluids and greased everything up again. I had a pre go cart checklist to make sure I was ready to go. It was quite exciting pulling it out of the garage with intentions of leaving the driveway for the first time. I was nervous about bottoming out coming off the driveway. That was not a problem. I just took it slow. The car drove beautifully and I couldn't be more pleased. Took my wife on a quick ride also. I cant seem to get the smile off of my face. Really proud to reach this milestone. I am very thankful for all the amazing help I have gotten along the way.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59771&d=1476643236

Here is a quick video:
https://youtu.be/jcIsIWjaveA

edwardb

10-16-2016, 02:48 PM

Awesome for the first go-kart! It's coming together. Congratulations. ;)

Jeff Kleiner

10-16-2016, 06:02 PM

Another milestone met! Congrats :)

Jeff

wareaglescott

10-19-2016, 11:42 AM

Not much build progress to report. I have a list of tasks I want to get to but have been spending a lot of time on the phone with tech support trying to get my SCT tuner issue figured out. They have escalated that to engineering and it may take 1-2 weeks to hear back.

In the mean time I have taken a couple go carts around the neighborhood to see how things are running. I was having some smoke coming from the DS j pipe area. Finally traced that back to a leak at the power steering rack. The fluid was blowing back onto the exhaust causing the smoke. I believe I have that corrected now. No leak on today's go cart so I will continue to monitor.

After a few drives I have realized my self alignment was not what I hoped it was! Haha. I believe the track is off. I loaned my tools to a friend. I will be revisiting that in the near future.
The car seems to track straight but it takes holding the steering wheel at about 11 oclock to stay straight. Now keep in mind my wheel is removable so I can orient it however I want. It always starts straight but then I end up at 11 o'clock to go straight down the road.
Can anyone give a suggestion what is likely off with these circumstances?

Railroad

10-19-2016, 09:41 PM

Sounds like your thrust angle is off. ie rear is not following the front. Measure the distance between the wheels on each side, first. Follow up with rear alignment, similar to the front, per specs.

AC Bill

10-19-2016, 10:31 PM

wareaglescott

10-20-2016, 06:19 AM

A four wheel alignment done at a professional shop isn't really that much, and I feel well worth the dollars. A good alignment can make the car a joy to drive, or a handful if it's off.
The ride height will need to be adjusted once it's all together, so whatever aligning you do now isn't going to make a big difference, (other than perhaps for your short go-kart excursions). The car will weigh more after the body, roll-bars, windshield etc., is on, and your pretty close to licensing it. Set the ride height to where you want it, then get the final alignment done. The springs/shocks will often settle after some miles. If you notice it settled some, just raise it to the same exact height as it was when you had the alignment done, and it will be back in alignment.

Thanks for the response.
I'm not concerned about the cost of alignment. I am just of the mindset that if I can build the entire car I should be able to align it myself also. I didn't get it exactly right the first try but for me that is part of the learning process. Now if I can't get it nailed after 3-4 times then I might seek outside help. I have found up to this point I haven't asked any questions here that all the helpful people on the forum have not been able to help me with. My other issue is I live in a small town and finding a shop I trust to dial in this front and rear suspension is not real easy. I'd like to learn how to do a good alignment with the tools I purchased so I can change it myself to account for any ride height changes or whatever.

wareaglescott

10-20-2016, 01:24 PM

Worked on the weather pack connectors for the lights at all four corners today. My gauge backlighting is not working and I need to hook up my seat heaters. I am planning to take off my dash to work on those items so I figured I might as well go ahead and test out the lights so I was exactly sure what all worked and what needed attention.
I used two 3 position weather pack connectors on each corner. One for each light unit. Up front I took the existing ground wire from the harness and made a ground point to the frame. Then I added a ground wire from that point to each of the two lights per side. I would have liked to do this in the rear with the grounds but the fuel tank was blocking my access to where I would have liked to drill. For the rear I just used the existing ground wire and split it off running to both lights per side.
All the lights worked. I do have one bug. When I hooked up the brake lights the light illuminated and stayed on. No key in ignition and not touching the brake pedal. Only way I could turn them off was to pull the fuse or turn off the master power switch. So know I need to figure that out. Any suggestions on what is causing that?

It was nice to see the lights on even if they are only temporarily mounted. Look forward to the day I have a body to attach them to!http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60055&d=1476987244