Wareaglescott's Coyote build thread - INDEX ADDED TO POST #1

[Railroad]

Switch out of adj...

[wareaglescott]

Switch out of adj...

That was it. All squared away. Thanks

[wareaglescott]

My MIL illuminated and indicated P0116 - engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit range performance

I have become friendly with a tech at Ford tech support and I asked him about this. He actually indicated that this is a known issue and there is a coolant temp software issue that is causing this in the crate motors. Apparently when they get the factory PCM they diet a lot of stuff out of the production version of the pcm. Somewhere along the way this caused an issue and there is a software update for this.
I was given the option of sending my PCM to them to flash with an update or they could send me a device to upload a software fix through the OBD port. So if anyone gets this code in the future call Ford for a software update. Dont try to trouble shoot it with other methods.

[Straversi]

Love the go cart video. Congratulations.
-Steve

[carlewms]

A bit late on my part but CONGRATULATIONS!

[wareaglescott]

I went back and revisited my alignment. I was having to hold the wheel at about 11 o'clock to track straight. After measuring everything out looking for where the error was I found the issue to be my garage floor. The drivers side front was sitting on a level floor. When I did the passenger front initially I did not recheck the level of the floor. Turns off that area has some slope in it. Once I figured that out I realized I had a pretty good difference in camber between the front tires. I corrected that and went for a test spin. Drove around the neighborhood a bit and it seems much better. At least good enough to get me through the go cart phase until I do final alignment after the body is on.

Have about 10 miles on the car now. Enjoying the short drives to shake things out a bit and see what issues show up.

Next thing I need to do is bed the brakes. The car stops fine but it certainly is not a hard stop. I see the wilwood instructions show tips for bedding the brakes. I have obviously never done this nor driven a car without power assisted brakes so I don't really have an expectation for what to expect.
Any tips on bedding the brakes are appreciated!

Thanks

[Gromit]

Glad you worked out the alignment issue a flat workspace is why the pro setups have those big steel frames
Keep posting I'm enjoying the build vicariously

Chris aka Gromit

[wareaglescott]

I mentioned earlier in the thread I was getting P0116 code from the motor. It was labeled "engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit range performance". After talking with Ford performance they indicated there was a bug in the pcm software that required an update. The options were to send them my pcm or they could send me a hand held tuner to upload the update. I choose for them to send me the hand held device. Plugged it in to the OBD port and uploaded the software update per the instructions. Should be all taken care of now.
If you have a 2015 coyote watch for this error code.

[wareaglescott]

Well almost 4 months after the kit was delivered I received my last backordered part today. The door latches showed up. Glad to have everything I purchased in my possession and don't have to track anything else down.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60125&d=1477413360

Now I am working on installing the seat heaters in the Kirkey high back seats with the help of my loyal assistants. They always lay just inside the basement garage door waiting for me and get pretty excited when I have an inside project:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60126&d=1477413373

Wondering if anyone has any tips on this project? The foam is attached the the seat cover. I am thinking I need to cut the foam away and put the heater between the cover and the foam or I would not be able to feel the heat very much. Can anyone confirm this? Also since the seat bottom pretty much sits flat on the floor I will have to bring the wires out the back of the seat and route them around somehow.
I am unsure on the mounting location for the switches. Trying to decide on either the dash or somewhere along the transmission tunnel. I think aft of the shifter would be a pretty good spot. Anyone have pros/cons on various switch locations? I do know I want to be able to see both the switches so I know if they are on or not. I once had a vehicle that had seat heater controls on the side of the seat and it was very hard to visually tell if they were on or off. It drove me crazy.

Thanks

[Railroad]

I think forward of the shifter would be more accessible and use some LED indicator lights, whether the switches are in line of sight or not. It also seems stuff behind the shifter gets in the way more than forward of the shifter. I saw a console with cup holders incorporated. I know that is not period correct, but I do need holders. I understand you are more rural than city, but I would seek out an upholstery shop on the foam and seat cover issue. Maybe someone on here has experience doing it. You might be able to drill and grommet a hole in the alum seat frame for the wiring. Nice set of helpers you have there.

[Straversi]

looks like your assistants want those heaters installed under their beds. Quick and easy. Big switches for those paws.

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the seats today.

I purchased these mounting brackets from Kirkey.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60227&d=1477685935

The limited room required me to turn them around from their intended direction and the tab that mounts to the floor is now under the seat instead of on the outside of it. It will make it a little trickier to get them bolted in. I like the mounts though because it allowed me to put a little recline into the seats.
Here they are mounted to the seats.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60228&d=1477685950

I also installed a lumbar support in my drivers seat. It is also a kirkey product and came with a couple snaps to rivet to the seat to hold the support in place. I can easily add one to the passenger seat if my wife decides she wants one.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60230&d=1477686020

After that I moved on to the seat heaters. I read of two different ways you could install these in the kirkey high backs. First was to put some sort of insulating material like felt on the aluminum part of the seat. Then put the heater blankets on that and then put the seat cover over it. The foam padding attached to the seat cover is pretty thick in areas. I was afraid the heaters would not feel hot enough if I did this. I read mixed reviews on the effectiveness of the heaters doing this so I choose the other method.
The way I did it was to cut away the foam in the area the heater pad would go. Put the pad just under the seat fabric material and glue the foam back into place. This is what I was starting with.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60225&d=1477685913

That foam was really attached good. It was quite a tedious time consuming process cutting and pulling it away in the intended area. Here you can see the pad in place. The middle piece I completely removed and added back on at the end. The other parts I could just cut part way to insert the heating pad.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60226&d=1477685925

No pictures of the bottom pad but it was pretty much the same. The heating system consist of 2 pads per seat.
After I had the pads in place and the foam glued back in I needed to run the wires. I drilled a hole for the plug through the lower inside corner of each seat and put a rubber grommet in there and ran the wires. These will not be visible when the seat is mounted. I put some padded clamps on the back of each seat to hold the rest of the wiring harness. This location will work good because with the slant of the seat back the harnesses will kind of be in the dead space just behind the seat and totally unseen and out of the way.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60229&d=1477685963

I decided to mount the switches on the transmission tunnel forward of the shifter. I drilled another hole in the side of the transmission tunnel right near the back inside of the seat and ran my needed wires into that area. I am still working on covering the transmission tunnel so I will post pictures of the switch position when I get done.

It was a beautiful day here today. I had to sneak in another go cart ride for no real reason. I am up to 15 miles on the odometer. Everything is working great. Now that I have driven it around a few times I intend to put it up on jack stands and do a thorough inspection of everything and look for any issues.

[wareaglescott]

Installed the outside wall of the drivers footbox today. I was waiting as long as I possibly could so I could access the pedal area. After driving and everything working ok I am pretty confident I won't need to get back in that area. With that being said I expect something to pop up next test drive! haha. I am still working on getting my handheld tuner issue worked out so I did not cover the top yet so I still have access to the wiring harnesses in there.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60280&d=1477855787

After that I started working on my transmission tunnel. I plan to make it removable. I wanted to figure out the location of the heat seater switches and drill the holes for the fire extinguisher mounting bracket. I got that all mounted up. Heat seaters are just forward of the stick. I like this location. Had to temporarily put the fighter stick shifter in place to get a look at how the final product is shaping up. Nothing super fancy but I am really pleased with my aviation themed touches I have added. I really like the aspect of being able to have something unique in my car.

Here is how it is looking:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60281&d=1477855803

I ordered some leather to cover this piece and will get to work on that when it comes in. Next I am going to start the heat/ sound insulation for the entire cockpit area.

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the interior heat/ sound shield. I used a thermo tech product. Prior to the install I siliconed any gaps between panels. Then where the pieces came together I used some dynamat aluminum tape. Pretty happy how it came out. I read a lot of people make cardboard templates to cut the pieces. I just grabbed the carpet sections out of the box and used those for templates. Worked great. Would have taken me 4 times longer to use card board. I ended up putting the insulation on the under side of the transmission tunnel cover piece. I am going to cover that with leather so I did not want the top getting to thick.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60328&d=1477936042

[wareaglescott]

Knocked out a few projects today. Was having an issue with the coyote throwing some codes related to the vacuum powered intake runner controls. The issue is well documented in this thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22472-Important-Information-Regarding-2015-2016-Coyote-CMCV-Plumbing

After I figured out there was a problem but not knowing how to correct it EdwardB did a beautiful job working out the fine details and providing instructions on how to correct the issue. Anyone installing a 2015 Coyote needs to reference this thread. I highly recommend you take the hose off from the rear of the engine and install the replacement piece PRIOR to dropping your engine in. It was really not enjoyable trying to get that off with the limited work space provided by the installed motor.
Thanks EdwardB for another great contribution to the building community on this issue.

Also today I worked on mounting my transmission tunnel. Again by following EdwardB's lead. I wanted the attachment points to be hidden.

I made some L shaped pieces and attached them to the cross braces in the transmission area. They are carefully positioned so I can put a bolt through them from underneath the car. Not exactly easy to take the cover off but it is doable and you will see no fasteners. After I positioned these two pieces I placed the cover on and drilled through from the top. Then I unbolted the 2 pieces from the transmission tunnel cross braces and riveted them on. That way I could be sure my alignment was exact. I still need to cover the tunnel with the leather I ordered and then it will be ready for a final install.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60422&d=1478202915

Underside showing the brackets attached:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60423&d=1478202925

After that I temporarily mounted my seats so I could go on another go cart ride. I had a few things to check out since my last drive.
First I realized I had incorrectly set my tach up at 1 pulse per rev. The correct setting was .5 pulse per rev. I changed that and a functional check of the tach with some spirited accelerations shows it is working properly now.
Next I was able to test the seat heaters I had installed. Had a buddy ride with me. Both worked great.
Lastly I wanted to check for any codes associated with the vacuum system. I did not get any and everything worked great in that area.

Put another 3 miles on the car as I continue to shake it down looking for any issues. I am up to 18 miles. Hope to get about 50 before the body is ready to go on. It was 80 here today. Beautiful day for a ride and the Coyote is running great!

[2bking]

After I got mine on the road, I had some hot air coming in around the seat area which I traced to the tunnel cover. I had made it removable and attached it under the carpet with 8 screws from the top. The welded tubes that frame the tunnel were not in plane and allowed the hot air to pass between the tunnel cover and frame. I made a gasket to seal it.

[wareaglescott]

After I got mine on the road, I had some hot air coming in around the seat area which I traced to the tunnel cover. I had made it removable and attached it under the carpet with 8 screws from the top. The welded tubes that frame the tunnel were not in plane and allowed the hot air to pass between the tunnel cover and frame. I made a gasket to seal it.

Good to know. Thanks King. I will watch for that.

[Vette1972]

Hi WarEagleScott, I just finished reading your entire build thread. Wow what a great job and nice posting of how the build went. Interesting all the trials and tribulations you experienced and SOLVED. Will keep up as you finish. Thanks, Len

[wareaglescott]

Hi WarEagleScott, I just finished reading your entire build thread. Wow what a great job and nice posting of how the build went. Interesting all the trials and tribulations you experienced and SOLVED. Will keep up as you finish. Thanks, Len

Thanks Len. I enjoy doing the build thread. I learned a ton from reading others so will be pleased if anyone finds any useful information in mine.

Scott

[wareaglescott]

As I have been go carting a bit I have been looking for areas that need attention.
My front PS brake line was rubbing the tire a little bit and at full steering lock and the tire was rubbing the F panel.

Here is a picture I took before:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60649&d=1478530462

I purchased some steering rack limiters from Breeze and installed them. Also the first picture was taken prior to my alignment and also with the wheels in the air. Today I was able to rotate the brake line fitting a little and that improved the line rub issue. With the alignment and the steering rack limiters I now have this at full steering wheel lock and the wheels on the ground:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60650&d=1478530476

Looks like I should be good now. I do have a question. I put trash bags under the wheels and turned the wheel full lock. Obviously the car is not moving. When the car is rolling should the full steering wheel lock be this same position or do they possibly go further with the motion? I know if the car is on jacks I can make it turn further. I was not sure what affect forward motion may have on things. I am confident the brake line rub is taken care of. Just want to make sure on the F panel rub.

[wareaglescott]

Buddy came over with his GoPro and we took a little ride.

Not quite sure what the whistling noise is. Must be the airflow over the camera.


https://youtu.be/n5zwJ14r-L0

[wareaglescott]

Today I covered the transmission tunnel in leather. I am real happy how it turned out. I found a place on line the sold auto upholstery leather remnants and I purchased a piece large enough to cover the transmission tunnel for about $50 shipped. I also found a piece to redo the dash in leather but have not decided on doing that for sure or not. The leather I got matches the existing dash vinyl quite nicely.

As usual I followed EdwardB's advice and ordered the same foam and adhesive he used to cover his dash and transmission tunnel. The only difference was I used 1/4" foam instead of 1/8". Being the first time I ever did this my theory was the extra 1/8' thickness might help me hide any errors I might make.

First step was to cut a piece of foam and apply the adhesive. I cut it oversized and them trimmed it after it was installed. I put the adhesive on both mating surfaces let it set up for about 5 minutes and then stuck them together

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60757&d=1478797729

When I was trimming it I had to cut out for the shifter and then seat heater switches. I ended up using a sanding disk on my dremmel to shape the edges after I trimmed them

.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60758&d=1478797740

After that I went and covered with the leather.
I have temporarily placed the trim ring in place because I am checking on the clearance the shifter has from the transmission tunnel and wanted to make sure everything was in place.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60759&d=1478797751

I did come to find out the foam was not as forgiving as I hoped. The area where I installed the fill piece around the shifter hole is visible underneath the leather. I used some flush mount rivets and riveted that piece on from the top. If I were to do it again I would have riveted that piece from the bottom and then made a fill piece so everything fit perfectly flush. It is not really noticeable and won't be particularly when the shifter boot is in place but if I ever do it again I will be sure to do it from below.

Really pleased how the interior is coming together. I am working on the seat mounting brackets which will be another post to itself. Since my bodywork is being done at Whitby and no sanding will be done with the car on the body I am going to go ahead and install most the carpet as well. I think it will be a little easier to do that before the body is on and it should not get messed up by sanding dust or anything.

[Straversi]

I'm far from this step but have been giving it some thought lately. I was wondering what sins the foam covered. Sounds like the surface has to be pretty smooth and blemish free. Good to know.
-Steve

[edwardb]

I did come to find out the foam was not as forgiving as I hoped. The area where I installed the fill piece around the shifter hole is visible underneath the leather. I used some flush mount rivets and riveted that piece on from the top. If I were to do it again I would have riveted that piece from the bottom and then made a fill piece so everything fit perfectly flush. It is not really noticeable and won't be particularly when the shifter boot is in place but if I ever do it again I will be sure to do it from below.


I'm far from this step but have been giving it some thought lately. I was wondering what sins the foam covered. Sounds like the surface has to be pretty smooth and blemish free. Good to know.
-Steve

Looking great Scott. The leather look on the transmission cover is nice. There really isn't anything about foam or covering, whether vinyl or leather, that's forgiving. If there's a bump or imperfection in the base surface, it's going to picture through to the final covering. Get it dead flat and smooth. I use JB Weld for filler if necessary. It sands out nicely. Even dents in the foam will show. Ask me how I know. I had to do one of my door panels over because of that.

[wareaglescott]

Looking great Scott. The leather look on the transmission cover is nice. There really isn't anything about foam or covering, whether vinyl or leather, that's forgiving. If there's a bump or imperfection in the base surface, it's going to picture through to the final covering. Get it dead flat and smooth. I use JB Weld for filler if necessary. It sands out nicely. Even dents in the foam will show. Ask me how I know. I had to do one of my door panels over because of that.

Paul,
Those flush mount rivets you mentioned did not show through so I was happy about that. You cant even tell the brackets for the hidden mounts are there so that is good. For the shifter hole fill piece I am just planning on people staring at my fighter stick shift and wondering why the heck that is in a car! They shouldn't even notice the other imperfections with that visual distraction! haha
It didn't occur to me I should have mounted that below until after the fact. Learning as I go. I will just add that to the file for next time!

[wareaglescott]

Continuing to work on my interior.

These Kirkey high back seats are somewhat complex to mount to my satisfaction. Due to my height my seat will be fixed and not adjustable as far back as I can get it. Ordered some Kirkey mounting brackets but they did not line up with a good spot on the floor to bolt them in. Ended up making a template out of plywood and then 1/8" steel plate and am working on getting that drilled and tapped to the frame. At the same time I need to be able to move the brackets if there is a conflict with the body going on. I want the plate under the carpet though so I am working on that and the carpet. Here is one pic of what I am installing. Will do a more detailed explanation on the seat mounting when I get it done
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60793&d=1478885281

I did get the rear wall carpeted this morning. After I finish the seat bracket install I will do the rest. I ended up ordering some adhesive to cover both my transmission tunnel and for the carpet. It came with a spray gun but I decided that would be a mess and it would probably trash the gun. I decided just to brush it on. Got some really cheap brushes at Home Depot and it brushes on very nice and then I just throw the brush away. Here is what I am using.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60791&d=1478885262

This stuff gets tacky pretty quick. I applied it on both the wall and the back of the carpet. Then let it sit for about 5 minutes and then put the carpet piece in position. Due to the size of the rear wall piece I was concerned about how long it would take me to apply the adhesive and dealing with that big of a piece when it was sticky. I decided to clamp half of it in position and then apply the adhesive to only the other half first and then do the second half. That worked out really well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60790&d=1478885251

Came out pretty good. I will have to finish my seat mounting plates before I can do the rest. I really enjoy the different parts of the build that require to try something you have never done before. Had a few of those the last couple days.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60792&d=1478885271

[Vette1972]

You are coming along nicely. I like the detail you are providing. Keep it up! Len

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the seat mounting brackets today. I had previously mentioned how I purchased some mounting brackets made by Kirkey for the high back seats. These allowed me to mount the seats with a little bit of recline. When the brackets attached to the seat the alignment to the floor did not provide a suitable point to bolt the seat into the frame. I decided to make some plates that I could attach the seat to and then attach the plate to the floor. Since I can not get bolts through with the seat in position it was a little tricky getting everything lined up perfectly.

The first step was to mount the brackets to the seat and make some wood templates.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60852&d=1478971154

Next I removed the seat from the brackets after marking where they hit the wood. I drilled holes through the bracket into the wood and through the floor plate. Ultimately these bolts will be bolted through the floor. That will help slightly but I didn't feel the floor was strong enough to hold the seats by itself.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60853&d=1478971170

Once I determined my idea would work with the wood templates I got a piece of 1/8 steel plate and cut them out.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60854&d=1478971181

Then I transferred the holes from the wood template to the steel plate. These four bolts in the picture are the ones that will also go through the floor. I reattached the seat just to make sure everything lined up perfectly.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60855&d=1478971202

After that I again removed the seat and put the bracket back on the floor. Then I used the four bolts that go through the mounting bracket to hold everything in position. After that I drilled and tapped 4 holes into the frame tubes.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60856&d=1478971212

These seats are not going anywhere with this setup. Next I am going to clean up the parts and put a coat of paint on the steel just to prevent any future rust. I will put the carpet over the plates and just have the seat mount bracket sticking up. I also intend to add a brace at the rear of the seat to the back wall. I am pretty confident I will not have a problem with the seat position when I go to put the body on but just in case I will wait until final assembly to work on the rear bracing.

Between the mounting and the seat heaters I have spent quite a bit of time on the seats. Funny how that works out. Prior to the project I just figured I would order some seats and put them in. Much more complicated than I anticipated. I enjoy the part of the build when you have to figure things out with your own solutions.
Now it is football time. Big game today! War Eagle

[Paul2STL]

Your build is really inspiring me to iron out my plans for my build. I have been book marking a lot of tips. I will be building the same set up in the future hopefully sooner than later just waiting for the 50/50 sale.

[Jdav]

Great progress Scott, I'll have to visit again soon to see it all in person. And Go Dawgs.

[wareaglescott]

Great progress Scott, I'll have to visit again soon to see it all in person. And Go Dawgs.

Sure come back any time. That game was brutal yesterday. Never seen such a poor offensive half or I guess from your point of view a spectacular defensive half! Congrats on the win.

[wareaglescott]

Worked on the interior the last couple days. It is pretty much done other than the permanent installation of my fighter stick shifter.

I wasn't sure what guys did to cover the hole for the parking brake. I put a couple filler pieces in place and then carpeted over it. With my seat location that area was very tight around the boot. I am thinking about doing something underside in the transmission tunnel to weather proof it a bit. Then again I never intend to drive in the wet and other than the very rare getting caught in unexpected rain in which case the entire interior will get wet so I am not really decided if I will bother.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61032&d=1479244184

After that was done and the transmission tunnel walls were carpeted I did my final installation of the seat mount plate. The 4 bolts in the middle of the plate are tapped into the frame tubes. The two bolts going through each seat mounting bracket also go through the floor. Just in case I need to move the seat some when the body goes on I made it so I can move the bolts to new holes if needed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61033&d=1479244197

Here you can see how I ran the carpet over the seat mounts with just the part that attaches to the seat sticking through. Took a little bit of time to trim the carpet but I like how that worked out. Looks pretty clean I think. I did not glue down the area over the bolts on the bracket that I potentially may need to move just in case. Just made a little flap that sits down under the seat.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61034&d=1479244208

After the carpet was done I reinstalled the seats and transmission tunnel . Getting those hidden bolts in the transmission tunnel from underneath is a little tricky but I like not seeing any fasteners. I am hopeful it will be a long time before I need to take that piece off again. I am very pleased how the interior came out. My only complaint is the lumps in the dash where I made the hidden mounts. I am going to wait until the body is on and see how noticeable it is but at some point anticipate redoing that. Due to the thickness of my transmission tunnel covering I had a little conflict with my fighter stick shifter so I am having to get that part modified a little bit. Other than that the interior is complete. I took it out for a quick go cart. It had quite a different sound to it now that the insulation and carpet is in. At first I was concerned something was wrong with the motor but then I realized it was just quieter. Really happy how the interior is looking!
(excuse the blue tape on the seat belts. They are way to long. Mom is coming at Thanksgiving and bringing her sewing machine so we have a few projects lined up including fixing the length on the belts. Also the shoulder belts are just thrown over the top of the rear wall because they are a pain to feed through the little slot and they will be coming in and out again.)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61035&d=1479244218
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61036&d=1479244228

[Vette1972]

Scott, The interior is looking great. Very nice job. The carpet over the seat frames came out very well. The tape looks cool. LOL How about posting a pic of the complete chassis as it sits now? Again, great job. Len

[Straversi]

Looks great. If I remember, you sent your body off to paint a while ago. How's that coming?
-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Here you go Len. Just happened to take one today when I had it outside. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61042&d=1479248123

[Vette1972]

Man that is looking great. Clean and neat look. The belts are going to look great when you get the body on. Thanks!

[mmklaxer]

This has been a great thread to follow - especially for someone with a comparable skill level. I don't recall seeing a paint scheme for your build (might have just been a while) but is there any chance you're painting it white with blue stripes and orange pin stripes? The seat belts scream "Auburn Theme" similar to Dave's USC build...

[wareaglescott]

This has been a great thread to follow - especially for someone with a comparable skill level. I don't recall seeing a paint scheme for your build (might have just been a while) but is there any chance you're painting it white with blue stripes and orange pin stripes? The seat belts scream "Auburn Theme" similar to Dave's USC build...

Thanks!
My avatar picture is my paint scheme. I had an artist draw that up as a concept to see if I liked it. I have 3 grays and 2 oranges for the stripes I am choosing between. I still need to finalize those selections but it will pretty much look like the picture.

[wareaglescott]

Today I put some carpet in the trunk area. I was not really caring to have anything fancy back there. I just wanted something that was functional. I went to home depot and got some indoor/outdoor carpet for about $20. I went with gray since that is my exterior color.
I did the majority of the trunk area. I wasn't sure if some of the panels that have bulb seal on them might need to be trimmed some when the body is installed so I left the carpet off of those areas for now. It will be easy to go back and add that after the body is on. I debated whether to cover the fuel access holes. I ended up covering those plates in carpet. I debated using rivnuts to make them removable but just decided I would rivet them in place. It is so easy to drill the rivets out and replace them I will just do that if I need to access under the panels. The one towards the center I have already riveted. The one on the passenger side I will just leave the clecos in until after the body is on. I think that hole will be needed to access one of the bolts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61099&d=1479505138

After that I installed a dual port USB charger. During the build planning stages I stayed away from any additional electrical components because I was so intimidated by the wiring. I am really pleased to have a better understanding of it at this point. I am enjoying learning all these new skills on the build. I used the radio power wire since I have no radio and ran a ground to the frame. Then I drilled a hole in one of the dash support pieces and installed the USB charger there. I plan to make a small pocket out of carpet and mount it on the drivers side of the transmission tunnel. This will hold my cell phone and sunglasses and should blend in nicely with the other carpet. The location of the charger is pretty much right above where the pocket will be so i can run a short charging cord.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61100&d=1479505155

The weather here continues to be amazing. About 70 today and not a cloud in the sky. I decided to go for another go cart around the neighborhood and did about 4 miles. Everything is working great. If this weather keeps up I may set some sort of go cart mileage record! haha

[Jeff Kleiner]

...The one on the passenger side I will just leave the clecos in until after the body is on. I think that hole will be needed to access one of the bolts...


If you have not seen this you might want to consider it and do it now prior to body installation. Sure does make life easier :)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14243-Rear-quick-jack-mounting&highlight=coupler

Cheers,
Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Working on my pedal positioning today. I have found during go carting that the pedal usage is working fine for my size 13 feet but I am unable to get my foot to the left of the clutch pedal to stretch it out when not shifting gears. I had previously mounted both the brake and clutch pedal as far left as they could go.

I decided to try the clutch pedal as far right as it could go:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61232&d=1479842352

This proved to be just to tight between the brake and clutch pedal. Next I tried the center mount position on the clutch pedal:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61233&d=1479842365

This worked out quite well. Very nice for shifting and I can get my leg stretched out to the left of the pedal. It is amazing how that has improved my overall comfort in the car. At 6'3" and size 13 feet I need all the space I can get. Amazing what a 1/2" adjustment will do.

The weather continues to be great. Spending some more time go carting around the neighborhood. After about a 15 minute drive today I was curious about the exhaust pipe temps as I am always warning people to be careful exiting the vehicle. I do have heat shields installed on the pipe. Out of curiosity I took some temp readings right after I got out.

The header at the motor was 228 F
The Jpipe was at 161
The side pipe just behind the flange was 136
The pipe at the tip was 83
The heat shield was 70 and the ambient temp is right at 70.

This data is pretty much useless but I found it interesting anyways. I am sure after a longer harder run things will be much hotter. I also wonder how much of an additional cooling effect I get by not having a body and the pipes getting maximum airflow.

[Jazzman]

I like your heat data. I am putting a second layer of heat shield material on the inside and front walls of the footboxes to protect against all that heat getting on my feet. Did you happen to check what the temperature was on the inside front of the DS footbox after your drive?

[wareaglescott]

I like your heat data. I am putting a second layer of heat shield material on the inside and front walls of the footboxes to protect against all that heat getting on my feet. Did you happen to check what the temperature was on the inside front of the DS footbox after your drive?

Funny you should mention that. I was just thinking yesterday that with all my drives I have never felt any sort of hotness in the foot box area. I attribute this to two things. First the longest I have ever run the car is about 15 minutes and second without a body they are getting max airflow over them for cooling. I expect with longer duration drives with the body on it will be much different. I saw in another build thread someone applied heat shield on the outside of the foot box just behind the pipes. I am considering doing that.
I will take a reading on the outside and inside of the footbox after my next drive and let you know.

[edwardb]

With all due respect to all those builders that have fabbed some great looking heat shields on the engine side of the footbox, I haven't found additional heat shielding necessary. With a heat and sound product on the inside of the footboxes (I use Lizard Skin, but there are lots of good choices) plus carpet, in 5+ seasons, 10-12K miles (I've lost track) and all kinds of weather including really hot, I haven't noticed heat radiating from the footbox panels. Same for the passenger side. I don't have the data because it was several years ago, but I did some sampling of the footbox panels nearest to the exhaust headers with an infrared thermometer after some long cruising runs. As long as there was some separation, the heat transfer wasn't nearly as much as you might think. Air filtration from the engine compartment will be felt immediately though. Makes me wonder if what some feel as radiated heat is actually air leaking in. Getting everything sealed up is critical.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm kinda' with edwardb...nothing out of the ordinary in mine, just cheap Reflectix insulation and carpet with no vents yet in all of my years and miles, many of them on 90 degree days &/or stop and go traffic I have never thought to myself "Man, my feet sure are hot" ;)

OK, now back to your regularly scheduled build thread!

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Thanks Paul and Jeff. Your experience in these type issues is always appreciated by this newbie! One aspect of the build I really enjoy is coming up with solutions to issues that come up. It is sometimes hard to differentiate what is actually needed vs what just seems like a good idea other builders have come up with. Thanks for the help.

FWIW after I drove today I put the temp gun on the headers and they were about 260. The exterior wall of the drivers front footbox was 86 and the interior wall was 74. More useless data but I think the above advice is pretty solid.

[wareaglescott]

Working on a few interior projects today. Luckily my Mom came to town for the holiday with her sewing machine in tow so I could put her to work.

My first issue was the seat belts. I ordered some orange belts to match my body stripe and for a little extra color accent. Not sure about the simpsons that come with the kit but these were way to long. I decided to cut them down.

I figured the appropriate length with a decent margin of adjustability and cut them. Then I treated the end with a flame to melt it a bit and keep the edge from fraying. That worked quite well and probably would have been fine just like that.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61320&d=1479940295

Since Mom was here I had her fold them over and sew a nice edge on them to look more factory made.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61319&d=1479940285

Next up was the shifter boot. My plan was to make one from scratch with extra leather I had on hand. I had previously ordered a leather boot for the traditional shifter that came with the kit. My goal is to be able to use both and ultimately when I get rid of the car I will take my fighter stick out and put the original one in so I needed two boots total. Once I determined figuring out the template to make one from scratch and have it fit perfectly was beyond my brain power I decided to just modify the hole in the one I had ordered. I will just order another one for the original stick.

Here it is installed. Really have been enjoying driving the car with this shifter and now I love the finished look.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61321&d=1479940305

After that I had one last sewing project. I wanted a pocket for my cell phone and sunglasses. I figured a little pocket made out of some leftover leather I had from the transmission tunnel cover placed on the drivers side of the tunnel down by my right leg would work good. This area is also just below my usb plug so I can run a short charging cord from the plug to the pocket and keep it out of the way. The camera flash lights it up pretty good but in normal lighting conditions it is not really that noticeable.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61322&d=1479940316

Another beautiful day meant another go cart ride. Had to take Mom for her first ride. Passed 50 miles today. Beginning to wonder what the record is for most go cart miles? haha
I did talk to Jeff at Whitby this week and he indicated another 6-8 weeks until the body is ready. That will be right about the window he told me to expect when I dropped it off. I am hopeful that will hold up. I am getting pretty low on tasks to accomplish before the body is on. I guess I will just have to keep driving it then.
Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving!

[wareaglescott]

Small update today. I did the final install of the rest of the drivers foot box panels. I am pretty confident I will not need to access anything in this area. I had considered using rivet nuts for the removable top plate but decided it is so easy to drill rivets out that I would just go ahead and rivet it in place. I did deviate from the instructions just a bit. I am thinking it is highly likely at some point in the future I will need access to this area. So for the two top pieces on the inside top of the footbox I did not use any silicone. I just riveted it. That way when I need to get in there it should be a little easier. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61373&d=1480106977

It was another beautiful day so I went for a go cart ride again. I was having some concern about my brakes. I have never driven a car with manual brakes. I was unsure and had no real way of knowing if the braking force that I was getting was appropriate. I had a friend that has a MK3 and also some race cars come over. He indicated he though the brakes were working very well so i was glad to hear that.

If you have been following this build you have seen mention of the issues I have had with my SCT X4 tuner communicating with the car. My X3 works great. At the suggestion of a Ford tech support supervisor I have become friendly with I took my PCM off the car and sent that and the tuner into Ford for a diagnostic check. I won't be able to drive the car for a week or two until that gets back. Curious if they will figure anything out.

Now that I have over 50 miles on the car and multiple heat cycles combined with the fact that the car is not drivable I plan to put it up on jack stands and go back through everything checking all the fasteners and everything I have done up to this point. I figure this is a good time to go back and recheck everything as I make final preparations for body installation. My list of items to accomplish before the body is on is almost complete.

[edwardb]

Your build is really making great progress. Good idea to go over everything after the driving you've done. I'll be interested to hear what Ford finds out with your PCM. FYI, and maybe you know this already, those two panels you're talking about can't be removed once the body is on. Doesn't hurt that you didn't use silicone IMO since they're not too structural at that point. Do make sure they don't leak though. Of course the body can be removed (and guys do it all the time) but it's not a small task and not something you would do without a major reason. You'll especially feel that way after it's painted.

[wareaglescott]

Your build is really making great progress. Good idea to go over everything after the driving you've done. I'll be interested to hear what Ford finds out with your PCM. FYI, and maybe you know this already, those two panels you're talking about can't be removed once the body is on. Doesn't hurt that you didn't use silicone IMO since they're not too structural at that point. Do make sure they don't leak though. Of course the body can be removed (and guys do it all the time) but it's not a small task and not something you would do without a major reason. You'll especially feel that way after it's painted.

Thanks Paul. That is the newbie in me shining through. I totally did not consider the body blocking those panels from being removed! Good to know. I cant imagine the way I have that compartment loaded up that it would be possible to change a master cylinder through that access panel. Sure hope I will never need to access that area. I may go back and revisit that and seal it up better to prevent leaking.

I will be sure to let you know what the outcome is with the computer I sent to Ford.

[wareaglescott]

I had read of people having issues with the steel centers getting stuck or being very difficult to remove. I once agin decided to follow Edwardb's lead and install some set screws to keep the center piece from being able to spin within the wheel.

I used 10-24 set screws in a 3/4" length. Cutting oil. A #25 drill bit. A 10-24 tap, silicone and a 90 degree pneumatic drill. I did have to shorten the handle on the tap so I had room to rotate it as the tap went in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61491&d=1480443053


The idea is to get the center piece positioned and then drill through both the wheel and the center cap. Then tap the hole and insert the set screw. This is the area I was trying to get the set screw through for the best effect.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61492&d=1480443067

Prior to drilling you need to make sure the center piece position is right where you want it to be. I applied lots of tape to protect the wheel from the spinning drill head. I wanted to account for the thickness of the lug nut cover piece. I did not have anything that thickness to shim it with so I ended up putting the cover piece on upside down and then tightening down the spinner. This worked quite well. You just need to be careful taking the spinner on and off not to scratch the lug cover piece. I did not have an issue with them scratching though. In fact when I opened up the 4 small boxes each unit was contained in I realized I was missing 2 of the cover plates so I ended up using each one on two wheels while I wait for the other two to be shipped.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61493&d=1480443079

Getting the hole drilled that precise was a little tricky for me. Not much margin of error. On the first wheel I missed it a little high. I still got good engagement with the set screw but wasn't super pleased. At this point I decided I would use some silicone as well around the perimeter to hold the center piece in position. So I refined my process a little on the second wheel. I went ahead and put the silicone on and stuck the center piece in the hole. Then I put the lug cover plate on inverted and then the spinner. Then I drilled and tapped the hole and inserted the set screw. I put a liberal amount of blue thread lock on the set screw.

It worked really well. The lug cover plate covers the holes you drill and the center piece is pretty solidly affixed so hopefully no issues in the future trying to rotate the spinners off. Once again the learning curve on this was interesting to me. Took me 45-60 minutes for the first wheel and each one got easier and my hole location more right on as I went through the remaining 3 wheels. Down to about 15 minutes on the last one. Now that I have a good system I guess I will just have to build another one!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61494&d=1480443090

[wareaglescott]

Small update today. I am running out of things to do until the body is finished.

I got the wheels installed with the spinners and lug covers. Nothing to exciting but at this point I don't think the wheels will need to come off again until the body is complete so that is nice. I am really not to pleased with the finish on the spinner pieces. Particularly the recesses in the spinner arms. I am thinking of powder coating them to make them look a little better. I am considering a few options and may go as radical as color to match my stripe. Will have to think that over though.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61614&d=1480783929

I got some spray on bed liner and applied that to the forward surface of the splash guard panels. I intend to do the inner wheel well areas on the body as well. Wish I would have done that before sending the body off to Whitby. I will just be very careful on application after it is done. I did tape off around the edge to make it easier for the bulb seal to go on. I wasn't sure how thick the finished product would be after applied. Now that I have done it I don't think it would have been an issue going all the way to the edge. With that being said I understand it is likely I will need to trim these some for best fit so my taped off area may end up gone after that anyways.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61615&d=1480783938http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61616&d=1480783949

I also spent a fair amount of time yesterday on the computer working on the insurance application. The car will be leaving my house soon to travel to Whitby for body install and I figured it was a prudent time to get insurance. The company wanted me to show the cost I have in this project so I went through every receipt and made a spreadsheet of what the parts have cost so far. I had another sheet of my total cost which included things like tools and miscellaneous cost. It is interesting to see what I have spent just on parts vs the total cost at this point. I know when I go to register the vehicle I will need that spreadsheet of the parts costs so the great state of Alabama can get their tax cut so I am glad to have knocked that out.

I haven't been able to drive the go cart for about 10 days. I sent my Coyote PCM into Ford Racing for them to check something out. It is on the way back and will be here Monday. Looking forward to driving around the neighborhood some more.
While the computer was gone and the car was unable to drive I put the car up on jack stands and throughly went back over EVERYTHING. I have 50 miles on it now and figured this was a good opportunity. I was quite pleased how everything is looking. Couple bolts needed a little tightening but other that that everything is good to go.

[wareaglescott]

Previously when it came time to install the small top panel on the drivers side footbox I decided to just rivet it in place. It is so easy to drill out rivets I decided if I needed to get in there I could just drill them out. That was a great plan until I was looking at some other threads and realized once the body is in place I would not be able to get a drill on some of those rivets. I would really hate it if I need to get in there and it required removing the body to get those rivets out! I have had a couple times during this build where I have not really considered how the body would be sitting and what it will or will not allow access to. That is all part of the first timer learning curve I guess.

I decided I needed to reevaluate that plan and install it with rivet nuts that were positioned where I would be able to get the fasteners out. I drilled and installed the rivnuts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61758&d=1481135234

That worked well for securing the panel but that left me with a bunch of previously drilled holes that would be unused and didn't look to great. I ended up installing the rivets in the holes but just in the top panel. Basically they will look riveted but not be attached. After that I drilled out the holes in the panel I was mounting it to so the diameter was big enough to allow the backside of the rivet to fit down into the hole and sit flush. Then I painted the fasteners to match and screwed it on. Not thrilled with the extra rivets being there but I figured it is better than empty holes and I did not want to order a new piece and go to the powder coater again. If the look ends up bothering me it will be easy to change out later.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61759&d=1481135250http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61760&d=1481135263

I was still having issues getting my SCT X4 tuner to communicate with the car. At the suggestion of Ford racing tech support I sent them my tuner and coyote pcm. I got it back Monday night. When I installed the pcm and cranked up the car it was running absolutely horrible. It gave me a DTC code dealing with the mass airflow sensor. The computer was gone about 10 days in which time the car just sat there. It always ran perfectly before. I find it highly unlikely the MAF sensor all the sudden failed right while the computer was gone. Ford is sending me another sensor. Maybe that will fix things but I am skeptical. The box with the pcm was delivered in a tremendous rainstorm and was wet. I fear moisture has got into the pcm and is causing my issues. I really don't know though. I am currently waiting for the new MAF sensor and if that does not fix it we will take a look at the pcm next. I love the modern reliability the Coyote should provide but it is a little concerning to get into a computer driven issue such as this with no way to get the motor serviced at this point. Hopefully I can get this resolved with conversations and parts sent from my contact at Ford racing. He has been extremely helpful so far.

[edwardb]

The box with the pcm was delivered in a tremendous rainstorm and was wet. I fear moisture has got into the pcm and is causing my issues.

Highly unlikely the PCM was damaged by a little moisture. Those things are made for the harsh environment under the hood. Including heat, cold, water, salt spray, etc. The internal circuit board is actually completely sealed with potting material during final assembly. One of the reasons they're basically not repairable. That plus all the miniature components surface mounted on the circuit board. Pretty certain they're all made similarly, but this one I have personal knowledge of. Spent lots of time at the plant in Texas with my former employer where these specific Ford modules are made.

[wareaglescott]

Highly unlikely the PCM was damaged by a little moisture. Those things are made for the harsh environment under the hood. Including heat, cold, water, salt spray, etc. The internal circuit board is actually completely sealed with potting material during final assembly. One of the reasons they're basically not repairable. That plus all the miniature components surface mounted on the circuit board. Pretty certain they're all made similarly, but this one I have personal knowledge of. Spent lots of time at the plant in Texas with my former employer where these specific Ford modules are made.

Well there you go Paul adding logic into my panic driven diagnosis! Haha
That is good to know though. Thanks!

[Straversi]

That worked well for securing the panel but that left me with a bunch of previously drilled holes that would be unused and didn't look to great. I ended up installing the rivets in the holes but just in the top panel. Basically they will look riveted but not be attached. After that I drilled out the holes in the panel I was mounting it to so the diameter was big enough to allow the backside of the rivet to fit down into the hole and sit flush. Then I painted the fasteners to match and screwed it on. Not thrilled with the extra rivets being there but I figured it is better than empty holes and I did not want to order a new piece and go to the powder coater again. If the look ends up bothering me it will be easy to change out later.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61759&d=1481135250http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61760&d=1481135263

Creative fix. Thanks for posting. Even the little things are of great assistance to those of us following behind.
-Steve

[wareaglescott]

That worked well for securing the panel but that left me with a bunch of previously drilled holes that would be unused and didn't look to great. I ended up installing the rivets in the holes but just in the top panel. Basically they will look riveted but not be attached. After that I drilled out the holes in the panel I was mounting it to so the diameter was big enough to allow the backside of the rivet to fit down into the hole and sit flush. Then I painted the fasteners to match and screwed it on. Not thrilled with the extra rivets being there but I figured it is better than empty holes and I did not want to order a new piece and go to the powder coater again. If the look ends up bothering me it will be easy to change out later.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61759&d=1481135250http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61760&d=1481135263

Creative fix. Thanks for posting. Even the little things are of great assistance to those of us following behind.
-Steve

Thanks Steve. I have 3-4 others holes in the car that were poorly positioned that now have a fake rivet in them. This was the first mass substitution! Certainly not optimal but nobody will ever know but me and whoever is reading this.

[lahrs37]

Worked on the seat mounting brackets today. I had previously mentioned how I purchased some mounting brackets made by Kirkey for the high back seats. These allowed me to mount the seats with a little bit of recline. When the brackets attached to the seat the alignment to the floor did not provide a suitable point to bolt the seat into the frame. I decided to make some plates that I could attach the seat to and then attach the plate to the floor. Since I can not get bolts through with the seat in position it was a little tricky getting everything lined up perfectly.

The first step was to mount the brackets to the seat and make some wood templates.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60852&d=1478971154

Next I removed the seat from the brackets after marking where they hit the wood. I drilled holes through the bracket into the wood and through the floor plate. Ultimately these bolts will be bolted through the floor. That will help slightly but I didn't feel the floor was strong enough to hold the seats by itself.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60853&d=1478971170

Once I determined my idea would work with the wood templates I got a piece of 1/8 steel plate and cut them out.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60854&d=1478971181

Then I transferred the holes from the wood template to the steel plate. These four bolts in the picture are the ones that will also go through the floor. I reattached the seat just to make sure everything lined up perfectly.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60855&d=1478971202

After that I again removed the seat and put the bracket back on the floor. Then I used the four bolts that go through the mounting bracket to hold everything in position. After that I drilled and tapped 4 holes into the frame tubes.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60856&d=1478971212

These seats are not going anywhere with this setup. Next I am going to clean up the parts and put a coat of paint on the steel just to prevent any future rust. I will put the carpet over the plates and just have the seat mount bracket sticking up. I also intend to add a brace at the rear of the seat to the back wall. I am pretty confident I will not have a problem with the seat position when I go to put the body on but just in case I will wait until final assembly to work on the rear bracing.

Between the mounting and the seat heaters I have spent quite a bit of time on the seats. Funny how that works out. Prior to the project I just figured I would order some seats and put them in. Much more complicated than I anticipated. I enjoy the part of the build when you have to figure things out with your own solutions.
Now it is football time. Big game today! War Eagle

I have been totally lurking for a while watching your build. It is looking great! I have the same seat as you, but I was planning on putting them on sliders. From your experience, is that doable? I am shorter than you at 6' so I don't anticipate needing as much room.

[wareaglescott]

I have been totally lurking for a while watching your build. It is looking great! I have the same seat as you, but I was planning on putting them on sliders. From your experience, is that doable? I am shorter than you at 6' so I don't anticipate needing as much room.

I have never looked at sliders because I knew I did not want them. My main aversion to them was the seat sitting any higher than it had to and putting my head near or above the top of the windshield. At 6'3" I am comfortable in the car but it is still quite tight. If I were 6' there is still no way I would need a slider. I think at 6' and the seat all the way back it would be darn near perfect. Of course that does not really accommodate any shorter drivers. Some of my wife's friends have desires to drive my car. Perfect built in excuse when I tell them sorry you are to short and the seat does not adjust! haha

I have spent a lot of time on those seats so i will add a few more comments. The seat brackets I bought allow a little recline which increased the comfort. The kirkey lumbar support I ordered from summit drastically increased my comfort in the car. In fact I have a neighbor that works from home that comes and helps me all the time when I need hands during the day. He loves going on go cart rides. After I put the lumbar in the drivers seat only and he sat in it he strongly requested one for the passenger side!
The seat heaters work great installed in these seats. Cutting the foam away and inserting the heater and glueing the foam back was quite tedious but I am very glad I did it. I have no windshield yet and have driven the car in the low 40s. The seats keep me very warm. I think once the windshield and wind wings are in place driving with those in cooler weather will be quite nice. I am very satisfied I opted for seat heaters instead of the heater. (brand new heater for sale though at a great deal, I changed course after I ordered it)

I was advised not to even think about installing those seats before the body was in place. That is why I came up with a system that will allow me to move the seat location on the plate relatively easy. The outside shoulder bolster is going to be very tight to the body. I have read lots of cases where guys have bent them in. I got some pictures of the body overhang and measurement at various locations around that seat. I am expecting to need to move the seat and possibly needing to bend the shoulder bolster when it comes time to put the seat in with the body on. One thing to think about with sliders is the position of that side bolster as the seat moves fore and aft in relation to the body. I will pass on the same advice as the experienced guys told me. Wait to permanently mount the seat or have a provision for adjustment after the body is on.

In regards to the seat brackets I used. I think they are meant to attach to the seat with the flat part that mates to the floor on the outside. There just is not enough width in the cockpit to accommodate that setup. At first I just reversed them and had both flat parts under the seat. Then I realized on the side of the seat next to the door you have room for the bracket as it is intended. Since I had 4 total brackets, 2 of each type for the 2 seats I ended up using the two that were alike on the same seat and the other two that were alike on the other seat. Hopefully that makes sense. So basically the part of the seat next to the transmission tunnel has the bracket more under the seat and the side of the seat by the door has the bracket pointing out.

Last thing and I have not addressed this yet is it is recommended that seat also be attached to the rear cockpit wall. I am debating whether this is necessary but it seems like a good idea. Working out a mounting system for the rear wall with the seat in a fixed position will require some thought. If the seat is on a slider that would really require some thought!

Hope that is useful!

[lahrs37]

Wow, that is a ton of good information. Thanks! My use case is a little different because my wife is definitely going to drive the car too and she is significantly shorter than me. Hence sliders are a must and attaching the seat to the rear wall is impossible. You have me sold on the lumbar support, and I am curious about the recline. I have a feeling that will not play well with the sliders.
One thing I am thinking about is embedding speakers into the head rests. I got the idea from my old Miata. It was amazing how well you hear, and it wasn't blaring it so everyone would be craning their necks.
Anyway, keep up the great work!

[wareaglescott]

Today I made some badges to dress up the engine compartment a bit. This actually goes back 10 years to a Mustang I was doing and came across this product called Alumajet. They are very thin adhesive backed aluminum sheets you can put through a standard inkjet printer and make your own badges. After you print the sheets you spray them with clear coat and then peel off the adhesive 3m backing and put them in position. I was skeptical at first when I did these. I had the Mustang for 5 years and the badges looked as good the day I sold the car as the day I put them on. I will say they were in the engine compartment and not exposed to sunlight very often so I am sure that helped them not to have any fading.

I had a couple sheets left over and in my office for the last 10 years so I figured I would give them another try. I gathered some images online and made up what I wanted to use. The trick was finding a printer that would work. You need an ink jet printer and the sheets can bend some but not a lot. Most printers now seem to feed the paper in from the front and it does a 180 and comes back out the front. That will not work. You basically need a printer that feeds from the rear and comes out the front. I spent hours driving around to 5 print shops in town. Nobody could help me. Then I started looking at neighbors houses for the right one and the 4th neighbor had what I needed. I printed them off. Let them dry and then sprayed with two coats of clear. Then I cut them out from the sheet and applied them. I did have to poke a hole in the center of the three pieces that went on the triple reservoir caps so the vent would remain functional.

One additional detail that needs consideration if you do this. Ink jet printers can not print white. The sheets come in various colors including aluminum. If the logo you use has any white in it you need to have white sheets to start with.

Here are some pics:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61794&d=1481249868

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61793&d=1481248648

I used gray and orange to match the future exterior paint
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61792&d=1481248633

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61791&d=1481248620

[Vette1972]

Scott, That is awesome. Cool to add that to your build. Unique touches. Len

[jimi323]

i just finished reading through you're thread. Amazing progress! I'm in the researching phase now and have enjoyed following your build. Hopefully someday I'll have some hands on experience to share with the group.

[wareaglescott]

i just finished reading through you're thread. Amazing progress! I'm in the researching phase now and have enjoyed following your build. Hopefully someday I'll have some hands on experience to share with the group.

Thanks. This forum is full of some really great people that go the extra mile to help whenever they can. I think I built my car more from forum input than the instruction manual! I spent a lot of time researching ahead of time and it helped tremendously. Welcome to the forum. Feel free to ask any questions you come up with.

[WIS89]

Scott-

I really like your engine compartment labels! They look sharp, and add some interest in there.

Like you have been doing all along, that extra attention to detail makes all the difference.

Thanks for sharing all that you have!

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Work took me to Greensboro, North Carolina yesterday so I took an opportunity to visit Whitby Motorcars and to meet Jeff Collins. My body has been at Whitby since July 20th. I had a transport company deliver it to them so I had never actually been there myself. It was great to lay eyes on the facility. Jeff has always been great to speak to on the phone so it was nice to meet him in person. He gave me a tour of the facility and introduced me to some of the other employees. They had quite a few Cobras there as well as some other factory five vehicles. I really enjoyed seeing it all.

When my body was dropped there Jeff told me to expect 4-6 months. He said at times it has been longer but they have upped there ability to get cars though the process. I was very pleased with the work I saw and some of the more finished products. Looks great. I know I will be very pleased with my finished body. My body is still in line waiting to be worked on. Not exactly sure how long it will take. Late January will be the 6 month point. I am hopeful the body will be ready about then. At that time I will take my go cart up there and let them install the body and windshield.

Here are a couple pics I took.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61899&d=1481751497http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61900&d=1481751507http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61901&d=1481751523

The most exciting part of the field trip was getting my color samples I had been waiting for. I am in the process of choosing between these colors to come up with my body and stripe colors. The stripe will be one of the oranges. I am also doing something a little non standard with the stripe. #1 is to dark but the other two grays are in contention for main body color.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61902&d=1481751539

[wareaglescott]

Scott-

I really like your engine compartment labels! They look sharp, and add some interest in there.

Like you have been doing all along, that extra attention to detail makes all the difference.

Thanks for sharing all that you have!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks Steve!

[Jazzman]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61902&d=1481751539

Not that you need (or perhaps even want!) my opinion, but I like 3 & 4. Perhaps because it is most similar to your very nice artist rendering. I will look forward to seeing what you choose. Now if I can only make a decision on what colors to paint mine!! Glad the trip went well.

[wareaglescott]

Thanks for the input Kevin. 3&4 is definitely the leading vote getter among everyone I have asked. I think I'm pretty much decided on 4 for the stripe. 2 and 3 are pretty close for the body so I am still mulling that over.

[Raceral]

Most people do not realize how much work goes into these bodies to get them straight. They are very wavy and every sq.inch has to be worked. The Hot Rod bodies don't even fit correctly and have to be really Frankensteined in order to get to fit. It will be worth the wait. My body wasn't even close to fitting. They said they had to add material to the doors to get the gaps right on one end . I had to take them my frame for final fitment. That's mine beside the blue one with the hood and trunk laying on it.

[wareaglescott]

Most people do not realize how much work goes into these bodies to get them straight. They are very wavy and every sq.inch has to be worked. The Hot Rod bodies don't even fit correctly and have to be really Frankensteined in order to get to fit. It will be worth the wait. My body wasn't even close to fitting. They said they had to add material to the doors to get the gaps right on one end . I had to take them my frame for final fitment. That's mine beside the blue one with the hood and trunk laying on it.

I was wondering if some of those cars were fellow forum members. Glad you responded. I know the end result will be worth it. I'm just really impatient! haha

[wareaglescott]

I had previously mentioned some issues with my PCM and resulting poor engine running and undiagnosed DTC codes.
I received a replacement PCM from Ford yesterday. Hooked it up and the motor cranked right up and is back to running beautifully. I am not sure what happened to the previous PCM that I had sent in to Ford Racing but it certainly had become damaged somehow in transit or something. With the new one installed I took an opportunity for another quick go cart ride in the cold. It was good to be back on the road after dealing with that motor issue since Thanksgiving. I am up to 54 miles now. Ford asked I send them my original so they can see what is wrong with it. Not sure if I will ever hear back but I am curious.

Today I once again followed Edwardb's good idea and dyed my leather door straps. I noticed he also did the leather on the seat belts. I changed out my belts to some aftermarket ones and did not need to do anything with those..
Here is the before:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61941&d=1481919857

These are the supplies I used. Ordered them on Amazon. Pretty cheap. I used about 1% of the bottles. I think I now have a lifetime supply of leather dye. The three products are the dye, edge finishing and the finish coat that supplies the shine. Prior to putting the finish coat on they were black but pretty dull. If you are looking for a dull finish just bypass the resolene.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61940&d=1481919846

Here they are finished. Pretty simple to do. I like how the black will blend in better with the rest of the interior.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61942&d=1481919871

[wareaglescott]

Decided on my colors and a friend was nice enough to use her photoshop talent to make a mockup for me. Really pleased how it looks. Certainly not a traditional look but I prefer something a little different. My original concept drawing is my avatar. I stayed pretty true to that other than deciding on the triple stripe pattern. Guess when the car is done I will have to purchase another drawing to match!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61996&d=1482095076

[Vette1972]

Decided on my colors and a friend was nice enough to use her photoshop talent to make a mockup for me. Really pleased how it looks. Certainly not a traditional look but I prefer something a little different. My original concept drawing is my avatar. I stayed pretty true to that other than deciding on the triple stripe pattern. Guess when the car is done I will have to purchase another drawing to match!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61996&d=1482095076

Scott, that looks great. Different but classic still. Len

[edwardb]

I like the color scheme a lot. Will be really striking. One question though. Are you planning to extend the stripes down onto the lower part of the radiator opening and the oil cooler opening? Maybe it's just the rendering.

[wareaglescott]

I like the color scheme a lot. Will be really striking. One question though. Are you planning to extend the stripes down onto the lower part of the radiator opening and the oil cooler opening? Maybe it's just the rendering.

Yes stripes will go all the way.
My friend is a photographer for USA Today sports images. I just asked for her advice on what program to use so I could attempt a mockup. Instead she just did it for me which I appreciated. She doesn't know Cobra's though and I'm not even sure where she came up with the image she used so I wasn't to concerned about the stripes not being below the radiator opening. Beggars can't be choosers. Haha

[wareaglescott]

Well this is about where I am at on my build. Waiting for the body to be ready. Have a few very minor things I can do but honestly I am dragging my feet to make those small items last me for a while so I don't run out of things to do. Luckily the weather continues to be nice so I will just go cart around the neighborhood every couple of days. I am up to 55 miles now. Getting pretty routine driving around the neighborhood again and again. Anxious to get out on some real roads! On the positive side the neighbors don't really look at me to strangely anymore because they are all used to it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62127&d=1482333997

I am getting way ahead of myself but I figured I would throw together a trunk tool kit. Went to harbour freight and got everything for about $115. Some of this may be overkill but I like to be prepared in case I have any roadside issues.

I have included:
paper towels
towel
can of fix a flat
work gloves/ rubber gloves
zip ties
hose clamps
utility knife
flashlight
allen wrench set
rubber mallet
screw drivers
pliers
adjustable wrenches
socket set
duct tape

Any other essentials anyone would recommend? Any input is appreciated
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62126&d=1482333794

[Railroad]

I would change those needle nose pliers out for a set of Vise Grip needle nose. They give you more leverage, can do the same grip and turn function, and can be attached to hold something in place, if needed. Good luck,
I have read where they were used to pinch off a leaking brake line, hold a trailer ball on the tongue, pinch off various leaking hoses, etc.

[Jeff Kleiner]

---Wire stripers, crimpers, a variety of spade, butt and ring connectors along with a few feet of 12 or 14 ga. wire.

---Small digital volt/ohm meter.

---Channel locks.

---Socket to fit your lug nuts on a 1/2" breaker bar.

Hopefully you'll never need any of it!

Jeff

[Straversi]

Love the colors and the tripple stripe.
-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Good tips on the tools. I'll make a few additions. Thanks.

[wareaglescott]

Wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. It has been a great year working on this project and I am so pleased to have come to know so many fine people on this forum.

Today I took the go cart out again and took a few neighbors for rides. That is always fun. I am up to about 65 miles and everything is running great.

Christmas came a day early. Besides cars I really like collecting watches. My wife got me this one for Christmas. It is a Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra limited edition. Really love it and will enjoy wearing it while driving the car!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62219&d=1482606883
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62220&d=1482606897
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62221&d=1482606911

[edwardb]

Wow, great Christmas present. Very cool! This past August our local Cobra club was invited to an event at a jewelry store in Birmingham, MI. They were introducing that exact Baume & Mercier watch. Alan Grant was there with one of his replicas of CSX2128. Saw the watch in person. Even tried it on and liked it very much. But left with only the free hat. :o

[Vette1972]

Merry Christmas Scott! Super awesome present. Enjoy finishing your build in the New Year. Len

[wareaglescott]

Well I am getting pretty antsy waiting for the paint to be done. I decided to take matters into my own hands ... on a 1/18th scale! Haha

I bought a die cast model and painted it up to match how my car will look when done. I actually really like the paint job now that I am sort of seeing it in person. It will look nice sitting on my desk while I browse the forum and day dream about the day when I have the completed real thing in my garage! Here are a couple pics. Fun project!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62290&d=1482847994
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62292&d=1482848020
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62293&d=1482848031
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62291&d=1482848008

[Jeff Kleiner]

The little one looks great! Do you have a date for paint completion on the 1:1 scale version?

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

The little one looks great! Do you have a date for paint completion on the 1:1 scale version?

Jeff

Thanks!
No date yet but I hope to have a pretty solid estimate soon.

[wareaglescott]

Happy New Year to all and I hope everyone has a blessed 2017!

I am a little frustrated in my build currently. I have been fighting some pcm issues off and on for over a month. I have mentioned it a bit previously but here is a recap.

Original PCM was working beautifully on initial install. I had purchased a SCT X4 tuner to install an aftermarket tune. (since then through research I have determined that I don't even want or need an aftermarket tune but that is an entire other story!) I was having issues getting the tuner to communicate with the car. Traced that to two wires in my OBD plug that were wrong. Apparently Ford sent out a batch that had two wires incorrectly positioned and I was one of the lucky recipients. Once I swapped the wires my issue was still not completely resolved. The Ford Racing tech support supervisor that I had been working with requested I send him both the pcm and the tuner and he would look into it. When he sent me the pcm back and I hooked it up the car was running horribly and giving me a DTC code indicating a MAF issue. Now the car was running perfectly before sending the pcm in and sat untouched the 10 days or so it was gone. I found it highly unlikely the MAF sensor failed at the exact time the pcm was gone. They sent me a new MAF sensor which did nothing to correct the problem. Then they sent me a new PCM. I plugged that in and everything was back to normal and the car was running great. Not sure what happened with the first pcm. Possibly it was damaged in shipping or something.

After a few drives with the new pcm I got a MIL light. I hooked up my code reader and got a P0116. No problem there as I had previously learned that was a known issue with the crate motor pcms. On my first pcm they sent me a flash device to upload new software and the P0116 code never came back. I called my contact at ford again and he told me he would send the flash device again and I could update the new pcm. When the flash device came it failed halfway through the update for some reason. When it starts the update the first thing it does is erase the current software and then update to the new software. When it failed halfway through I basically had nothing on my pcm. After 2 hours on the phone with Ford we got it to load but now the car will crank and not fire up. The strange thing is the fuel pump is running but the pressure regulator is not registering. The motor is trying to turn over but will not fire up. It seems like it is not getting gas but I can smell fuel. No signs of leaks anywhere. Prior to this the motor has cranked right away every time I have ever turned the key. Once again I find it highly unlikely that some component is going to fail exactly at the same time I am updating the pcm. My contact at ford agrees and believes there is a problem with the pcm again. So I have sent the pcm back to them for testing. I am currently waiting for it to get to them and for them to turn it around and get it back to me.

Hopefully when it comes back it will be good to go again. It has been frustrating but I am glad this is happening now during the phase when I am trying to put about 100 miles on the car prior to the body going on. I kind of look at this as my testing phase so I guess its good these problems are showing up now vs when I would want to be out on the road driving a finished car.

[srobinsonx2]

Man, that does sound frustrating. I wish I could help but I have no PCM experience.

Good luck and just think, you will be a PCM expert when your done.

[bluse]

Happy New Year to all and I hope everyone has a blessed 2017!

I am a little frustrated in my build currently. I have been fighting some pcm issues off and on for over a month. I have mentioned it a bit previously but here is a recap.

Original PCM was working beautifully on initial install. I had purchased a SCT X4 tuner to install an aftermarket tune. (since then through research I have determined that I don't even want or need an aftermarket tune but that is an entire other story!) I was having issues getting the tuner to communicate with the car. Traced that to two wires in my OBD plug that were wrong. Apparently Ford sent out a batch that had two wires incorrectly positioned and I was one of the lucky recipients. Once I swapped the wires my issue was still not completely resolved. The Ford Racing tech support supervisor that I had been working with requested I send him both the pcm and the tuner and he would look into it. When he sent me the pcm back and I hooked it up the car was running horribly and giving me a DTC code indicating a MAF issue. Now the car was running perfectly before sending the pcm in and sat untouched the 10 days or so it was gone. I found it highly unlikely the MAF sensor failed at the exact time the pcm was gone. They sent me a new MAF sensor which did nothing to correct the problem. Then they sent me a new PCM. I plugged that in and everything was back to normal and the car was running great. Not sure what happened with the first pcm. Possibly it was damaged in shipping or something.

After a few drives with the new pcm I got a MIL light. I hooked up my code reader and got a P0116. No problem there as I had previously learned that was a known issue with the crate motor pcms. On my first pcm they sent me a flash device to upload new software and the P0116 code never came back. I called my contact at ford again and he told me he would send the flash device again and I could update the new pcm. When the flash device came it failed halfway through the update for some reason. When it starts the update the first thing it does is erase the current software and then update to the new software. When it failed halfway through I basically had nothing on my pcm. After 2 hours on the phone with Ford we got it to load but now the car will crank and not fire up. The strange thing is the fuel pump is running but the pressure regulator is not registering. The motor is trying to turn over but will not fire up. It seems like it is not getting gas but I can smell fuel. No signs of leaks anywhere. Prior to this the motor has cranked right away every time I have ever turned the key. Once again I find it highly unlikely that some component is going to fail exactly at the same time I am updating the pcm. My contact at ford agrees and believes there is a problem with the pcm again. So I have sent the pcm back to them for testing. I am currently waiting for it to get to them and for them to turn it around and get it back to me.

Hopefully when it comes back it will be good to go again. It has been frustrating but I am glad this is happening now during the phase when I am trying to put about 100 miles on the car prior to the body going on. I kind of look at this as my testing phase so I guess its good these problems are showing up now vs when I would want to be out on the road driving a finished car.

Hang in there. I have no doubt you will fiquire it out.

[wareaglescott]

Man, that does sound frustrating. I wish I could help but I have no PCM experience.

Good luck and just think, you will be a PCM expert when your done.

Ha yep I'm definitely learning a lot.
It does give me concerns on how I can handle potential engine issues that are computer related during the build. Can't exactly drive it to a Ford dealer. I did have a Ford tech support guy tell me once all the equipment at the dealership is set up to read by VIN number and since the crate motor doesn't have that he wasn't sure if the dealer could work on them. I guess I will cross that bridge when I get to it but I didn't think that statement seemed right. At least I can take the entire computer off and send it to them for now.

[WIS89]

Scott-

I really like the "new" color scheme. The wide center stripe looks sharp, and the two side stripes set it off nicely!

Sorry about your PCM, and I have nothing to offer except my well wishes. I can only imagine the frustration!

Let me know if I can run by Whitby's for you. I am not that far, and need to drop some things off there anyway, so just say the word.

Absolutely LOVE the watch! It's a bit up market for me, but it is beautiful!

All the best as you wrap up your car here as 2017 begins.

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Scott-

I really like the "new" color scheme. The wide center stripe looks sharp, and the two side stripes set it off nicely!

Sorry about your PCM, and I have nothing to offer except my well wishes. I can only imagine the frustration!

Let me know if I can run by Whitby's for you. I am not that far, and need to drop some things off there anyway, so just say the word.

Absolutely LOVE the watch! It's a bit up market for me, but it is beautiful!

All the best as you wrap up your car here as 2017 begins.

Regards,

Steve

Thanks Steve. Happy New Year

[wareaglescott]

I came to find out speed hut could do custom faces for the gauges. I am considering sending mine in and having them refaced. The cost is pretty reasonable. About $300 for the set. I really like having a unique look to my projects. All these cars we build are one of a kind and I think the personalization is one of my favorite aspects. With my high back seats, fighter stick shifter, dual roll bars and the triple stripe I will be doing my car will certainly not be a traditional Cobra look.

As far as the gauge faces you are somewhat limited on colors you can choose from. Speed hut offers a tangerine color. I was concerned about just selecting it by an online picture. I called and asked if they could send a color sample which they said they could not. I was disappointed in that and determined my best course of action would be to have a sample gauge made so I could see one in person. The clock was the cheapest thing they offered so I ordered one of those. That had me in for $76. At this point what is another $76! haha I ordered it on 11/28 and it arrived today. A little slower than their normal service with the holidays I think.

Here is the clock. Silver with a tangerine triple stripe. I would also be interested in adding a small cobra logo they offer on each gauge face but figured for just the sample I did not need to pay extra for that.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62484&d=1483474140

Now for my dilemma. The silver is not close to my gray and the orange is close but certainly not the same color as my stripes will be. Here are a couple pictures comparing my paint samples, the gauge, and the diecast I painted up. Also one of the gauge vs the originals. That is all I have for now. The lighting in the picture with the die cast isn't the best. The orange in the other picture is pretty true.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62485&d=1483474156
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62486&d=1483474175

I am fine with the look of the silver on the gauge face. I think it would actually compliment the look nicely. I am going to have to think about the orange. IF they would do a custom orange color that matched perfectly it would be a slam dunk. I may try asking again and see if I can work something out but am doubtful. Another consideration is my red rocker switch covers in the picture. If I change gauges I will swap those out to black. My fighter stick has a couple very small red buttons which is why those are red in the first place.

So what are your opinions on the custom gauge face?
(My buddy asked me when I was asking about colors if his opinion mattered? I said absolutely, it is 95% me, 4% my wife and 1% everyone else's input! haha) I do like to hear the opinions though

[Misterfubar]

When it comes to the gauges I think form should follow function and the colors you've got on your sample don't give enough contrast and might take a split second longer to read the gauge, and the white dials are hard to see against the white background. If it's not an exact match I would skip it.

[Jdav]

Your seat belts are a third color orange, correct?
On one hand, that would make me think that a different orange variation would be ok, but it might be too much.

My bigger question would be if a dash full of striped gauges would look too busy (regardless of the color match) - looking at 1 by itelf is fine, but 7 of them might get crazy.

[wareaglescott]

Your seat belts are a third color orange, correct?
On one hand, that would make me think that a different orange variation would be ok, but it might be too much.

My bigger question would be if a dash full of striped gauges would look too busy (regardless of the color match) - looking at 1 by itelf is fine, but 7 of them might get crazy.

Here is a picture from Chris Gundermann that shows a full panel. I think it looks pretty awesome.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62491&d=1483480741

[Jazzman]

(My buddy asked me when I was asking about colors if his opinion mattered? I said absolutely, it is 95% me, 4% my wife and 1% everyone else's input! haha) I do like to hear the opinions though

I am more comfortable knowing that you have your opinion priorities in correct focus! It should be all about you unless you plan to sell the car immediately, which clearly you do not. My 1% is this: I like the silver face, but the "tangerine" doesn't look like any ripe tangerine I would ever eat!! I like the custom gauges, like the concept of the stripes, but don't think the color works with the other colors you have. I like the red switch covers, and you are correct that they would have to go. I would like it better if a) they had a decent orange color, and b) they had your triple stripe pattern. As is, I say skip it, save your money. If they can give you a good color match on the stripes, perhaps.

Just remember, opinions are like navels: everybody's got one!

[Jeff Kleiner]

My 1%...the stripes, even if they were an exact match, are a bit much and would be even more so with the Cobra logo. If you want to make a change from the current gauges to add some color I suggest gray/silver faces with orange pointers. But your vote carries 95 times the weight of mine ;)

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

I got my pcm back from Ford racing. They said it checked out ok. Prior to sending it I was having a couple issues. One being no fuel pressure showing on my regulator although the pump was running. Since everything had run perfectly right up to messing with the pcm upload to fix the P0116 code I and the Ford racing tech I was on the phone with deduced it was likely the PCM so I sent it to them. Well after it came back and it checked ok I hooked it up again and still no fuel pressure.
I figured it was time to look at the fuel system.
Started with the output of the fuel filter. Unhooked the fuel hose and then activated the pump. NO fuel came out.
Next I tried the inlet hose to the fuel filter to determine if the filter was blocked. Well nothing was going into the filter either so it was clear that while the pump was running no fuel was leaving the tank for whatever reason.
At that point on the advice of my build mentor Paul I dropped the fuel tank so I could get the pump out.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62564&d=1483816419

Once I did that I took the pump out and found that the hose on the pump had come loose.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62565&d=1483816445http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62566&d=1483816462

I have no idea how that happened but it sure explained why the fuel was not leaving the tank. I purchased this pump from Breeze. I called Mark and asked if he had seen this before. As usual his customer service was outstanding. He told me to send it to him and he would fix or replace it. I think it simply needs another clamp but I don't have the tool for the crimp type clamp so I elected to let him do it.

I am quite amazed that the car ran perfectly the last time I drove it prior to the pcm update and that the pump simultaneously failed right when I was doing the pcm. I cant see how they could be related so I will just write it off as an amazing coincidence. Hopefully I will have the pump back soon and be back on the road for some more go carting. I wonder if it is possible some back pressure due to a pcm fault of some sort could have caused the line to blow off??

Mark at Breeze indicated he has seen this happen before but it is very rare. I guess the only thing to be learned would be to just check those clamps over and make sure they all seem very secure prior to installing the pump in the tank. I know when I put it in I did not give it a second thought or look to closely at it.

[wareaglescott]

I previously updated about my hopes of refacing my gauges to match my orange stripe. The sample gauge I ordered just did not look good enough to me. The orange color they offer is not close enough. That is the only orange color speed hut produces. I called to ask for a custom color at an additional charge but they will not do it.

Since I now have the sample clock that is pretty much useless to me I am wondering about taking it apart and seeing if I can get the printed face out. I am wondering if I could get a local print shop to make some for me and I could switch them all out.

Anyone ever try disassembling a gauge? Is this feasible?
My thought is from what speed hut told me is they print the face out and then assemble the gauge. Wondering why I could not have the same done locally?

[2bking]

I'm sure you can disassemble the gauges and make your own faces. The front bezel screws off and the hands can probably be pulled off the shafts. The problem is what you don't know about what is done to maintain accuracy and the assembly techniques. I would assume the gauges are cleaned and assembled in a clean room, an environment not available in the home. Instruments, like a watch, require a clean case and parts along with the right lubricants for longevity.

Perhaps Speed Hut would swap the faces if you supplied them. A simple CAD package and a color printer could produce the custom faces. A lacquer finish would keep debris from coming from the paper and ink over time.

[wareaglescott]

Good points King. Thanks.

I did get them apart quite easily.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62613&d=1483989419

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62614&d=1483989435

Couple problems in addition to the clean reassembly King mentioned.
The printed face seems to be a special disk that has the wiring attached to it that provides for the backlighting. I see no way to reproduce that locally. I would not want gauges that were incapable of being properly lit. Based on Speedhuts unwillingness to provide a custom color I seriously doubt they would supply me with blank disks to get printed myself. Not to mention they probably have special machines that cut the disks after they are printed.

I think that is just to much to overcome so I will put that bright idea to bed. Would have loved the look but the stock gauges look very nice as well so it is just fine.

Another $76 sitting on the parts shelf! haha Anyone have a failed clock and need replacement parts?
The nice part is the clock came with another one of the plug in cables with the setting button. Previously I had the one that came in the box set up so I could swap it for use with the speedo, tach and clock. The tach should be good to go now that it is set. Now I have a dedicated set button for setting the clock and one for changing the modes on the speedo.

[Abgar]

Perhaps this an option:
http://www.ampcustomshop.com/

[wareaglescott]

Perhaps this an option:
http://www.ampcustomshop.com/

Thanks for posting. Looks interesting. The appeal to refacing the speed hut gauges was reasonable cost and the ability to use the existing wiring I have already installed. Had I thought of custom gauges from the beginning I could have proceeded differently. I think I will just leave it as is but keep this in mind for a future build.

[wareaglescott]

Just looking for small task to complete while I wait on the body and paint.
I did the famous Jeff Kleiner license plate mod. Moved the plate up about an inch by rotating the internals and drilling/riveting some new holes. I won't go into a ton of detail but if you google "kleiner ffr license plate" the step by step instructions will be there. Very easy mod and should work great when it comes time to mount the plate.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62625&d=1484070289

[mikepward]

Are the gauges actually back lit? or lit from around the edges. Seems like any local sign shop could make some vinyl decals faces. There used to be a sign shop in the back of the car stereo place across the street from Waffle House on opelika road close to the mall. They used to cut custom vinyl for me 20 years ago.

[edwardb]

Are the gauges actually back lit? or lit from around the edges. Seems like any local sign shop could make some vinyl decals faces. There used to be a sign shop in the back of the car stereo place across the street from Waffle House on opelika road close to the mall. They used to cut custom vinyl for me 20 years ago.

Speedhut gauges dial lighting is an electroluminescence panel. Not something easily duplicated. http://www.speedhut.com/faq.i#how-does-the-gauge-lighting-system-work

[wareaglescott]

Previously I had planned on just using the supplied bolts to attach the rear bumper. Since my fuel pump issue necessitated me dropping the tank I decided to go ahead and use the couplers so I won't have to drop the tank again to get the bolts in. I bought 3' of 7/16" threaded rod which I cut into the needed lengths. Also got the couplers and other hardware needed. I happen to have a specialty bolt store in my small town. They have everything I need. Interestingly I told them I wanted lock washers for the backside of the coupler and they advised me there is new research that shows lock washers don't work. I found that surprising but have no reason to doubt what they are telling me. I skipped the lock washers and used a regular washer on the back as well as some blue thread lock.

Here are the couplers installed:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62678&d=1484234908

I decided to go ahead and mock up the bumper to make sure everything went together as expected. The bumper kit comes with some shorter spacers that go between the bumper piece and the overriders. The longer spacers came with the bolts intended to hold the quick jacks on. I decided not to use the longest provided spacer that normally goes between the inside of the body and the trunk aluminum panel. Instead I will use a bolt and washer on the inside. That way it can be adjusted to the appropriate position for best body fit. I did add a neoprene washer to this setup that will go on the outside of the body against the painted surface.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62629&d=1484080500

Since the threaded rod threads into the coupler you need to drill out the threads in the overriders. I did not realize this at first and was somewhat puzzled how I was going to get this together! ha Once I learned the overriders get drilled it made a lot more sense. Then the threaded rod can slip through the holes in the overriders and you put a nut on the backside to hold it all in place. No way to get a good picture of that. Here is the bumper mocked up and how the hardware is arranged. Just keep in mind the body will be sandwiched between the nut and first spacer.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62628&d=1484080490
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62627&d=1484080459

After I was happy how that went together I packed up the bumper. I will be sending the go cart to Whitby to install the body and then when it comes back I will install the bumper. I will just send this to whitby so they can attach the body in the proper position and then when it comes back remove the nuts temporarily holding the body in place and replace them with the spacers, bumper, and overriders.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62677&d=1484234900

Fuel pump should be back tomorrow and I look forward to some more go carting this weekend. It is supposed to be almost 70 here.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You're welcome ;)

And your overriders are installed upside down.

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

You're welcome ;)

And your overriders are installed upside down.

Jeff

Oh brother! Thanks for pointing that out. Will get that corrected when I do the final mounting.

[wareaglescott]

Continue to try and work through my issues with the pcm. Really discouraged at this point. These computer issues I have been experiencing are very concerning to me because the corrective action is way over my head and at this point other than emailing back and forth with Ford tech support the solutions seem hard to come by. I just do not have the background, knowledge or equipment to adequately diagnose what the complete issue is. You would have to read back through my thread to see the back and forth issues I have had. Here is my latest scenario. This is a copy of the email I have in to Ford tech support. I welcome any input to the questions asked at the end if anyone has knowledge in this area. Obviously I will wait to hear from Ford before doing anything but I figure it is worthwhile to post it here and maybe it will become useful to someone in the future if they have similar troubles. My goal of hassle free operation by a modern computer controlled engine is not working out to well currently.

Email sent to Ford:
I got my fuel pump back and installed. Car started up no problem.
After running for a couple seconds the idle dropped and sounded rough. MIL illuminated and showed a P068A code. I researched online and read that was a common code after the pcm was flashed and if you cleared it that it would not come back. I did clear it and it has not come back.
On the next start I just cranked it and let it idle for a minute or so. MIL illuminated again. This time a P0102 code. Looking that up indicated one of the causes could be something to do with not getting enough fuel. I looked at my fuel regulator pressure gauge and saw it was down about 45psi. While the engine was idling I reset it to 55psi. It took what I thought was a large adjustment. About 1 full revolution of the adjustment bolt. I reset the MIL again, restarted the car and cranked again and it idled ok with no MIL. Then I was doing some other stuff for a few hours.
When I came back to the car I wanted to test drive it up and down the street for a couple times. When I cranked up after a few seconds the MIL illuminated and P0102 came up again. Turned the car off, swapped the MAF sensor because I had an extra that Mike had previously sent me and cleared the DTC. After this the car started and drove ok with no MIL. Engine operation just does not seem as smooth as previous but I have no codes indicating trouble at this time.

So my current status is no MIL illuminated. I am not real confident the code will not come back and I didn’t want to just keep trying things without consulting with you first. Please answer the following questions:

1. Before all this trouble started I had set the fuel pressure at 55. I still have no idea what caused the in tank pump to become unclamped. Does it seem strange to you that I had to adjust the fuel pressure regulator that much after it was previously set? Is it possible something else is going on in the fuel system I need to check into that could account for the different regulator pressure and the pump clamped line failing?

2. Can you give me some things to check into relating to the recurring P0102 code?
Hopefully it will not come back but the engine just does not seem to be operating as smoothly as previously so I am skeptical.

[Duke]

First, check to see how much fuel you have in the tank. If it's almost empty you could get a false fuel pressure reading. Ask me how I know ;)

Second, I highly recommend calling/emailing Jon over at Lund Racing. IMO, he's the best in the bus right now with the 2015+ coyote motors. My experience has been excellent. They sent me a tune for my specific setup loaded in the nGuage. After it shipped he emailed me right away and said there was a bug in the stock ECU causing the tune to sometimes fail mid load. Promptly sent me an updated tune with the bug fixed and detailed instructions. Flashing was very simple, including the first step it automatically BACKS UP the stock tune in case you need to reverse it. Entire process, backup including reflashing took under 8 minutes. Once setup I asked in about adjusting the cams at idle and he gave me detailed instructions on how to data log the motor at idle and free revving. It's all done via the nGuage and logs it in excel. I just sent that over and now he's going to update the tune and get me an updated file. I have the windshield mount for the nGauge and am planning on using it only as a shift light for track days and to data log/update the tune if I run into any problems.

A few hundred bucks is worth the chance to remove the headaches you've been having.

[wareaglescott]

First, check to see how much fuel you have in the tank. If it's almost empty you could get a false fuel pressure reading. Ask me how I know ;)

Second, I highly recommend calling/emailing Jon over at Lund Racing. IMO, he's the best in the bus right now with the 2015+ coyote motors. My experience has been excellent. They sent me a tune for my specific setup loaded in the nGuage. After it shipped he emailed me right away and said there was a bug in the stock ECU causing the tune to sometimes fail mid load. Promptly sent me an updated tune with the bug fixed and detailed instructions. Flashing was very simple, including the first step it automatically BACKS UP the stock tune in case you need to reverse it. Entire process, backup including reflashing took under 8 minutes. Once setup I asked in about adjusting the cams at idle and he gave me detailed instructions on how to data log the motor at idle and free revving. It's all done via the nGuage and logs it in excel. I just sent that over and now he's going to update the tune and get me an updated file. I have the windshield mount for the nGauge and am planning on using it only as a shift light for track days and to data log/update the tune if I run into any problems.

A few hundred bucks is worth the chance to remove the headaches you've been having.

Thanks Duke
I have about 3 gallons in there. Maybe I should add a couple more??
Edwardb reminded me of the need to set that pressure gauge with the momentary pressure that occurs when you turn the pump on prior to engine running. Because of how he and I did the vacuum system to avoid the P2004 and P2005 codes that can affect the pressure value displayed with the motor running and give an inaccurate reading. I will reset that tomorrow and see how it goes.
I still have your recommendation for Jon written down. I do appreciate the recommendation. The thing is there is nothing I am running outside the stock parameters that should give me a problem that the stock pcm cant handle. The air differences with the intake and any differences from the exhaust over stock are well within the fuel trim parameters of the pcm and it should run perfectly without the need for an aftermarket tune. I realize the stock tune will not be the optimum horsepower or performance the car is capable of but for my street driving I am fine with that. If I had track intentions I would be all over the recommended aftermarket tuner. I am hopeful I can get this worked out in stock form but will keep Jon in consideration. I had perfect operation from the original pcm for about 6 weeks before I sent it to Ford to have something else checked and that is when the trouble started. That is what is so bothersome because I know it has worked correctly before. IT is not like it has never been right.
Thanks again!

[Duke]

One thing I'm running into tonight is that the 02 sensors are reading AFR but not trimming the fuel. I'm wondering if some anti-seize that came on them got into the element and ruined the sensors. Both 02 sensor bags that came with the kit had the inside of the bags coated with anti-seize. Ford's instructions: Each UEGO is supplied with a light coating of anti-seize lubricant on its threads. Please use caution when installing as this lubricant will damage the sensor element, so make sure no lubricant comes in contact with the sensor element (tip).. I wonder if the sensors are toast.

[wareaglescott]

One thing I'm running into tonight is that the 02 sensors are reading AFR but not trimming the fuel. I'm wondering if some anti-seize that came on them got into the element and ruined the sensors. Both 02 sensor bags that came with the kit had the inside of the bags coated with anti-seize. Ford's instructions: Each UEGO is supplied with a light coating of anti-seize lubricant on its threads. Please use caution when installing as this lubricant will damage the sensor element, so make sure no lubricant comes in contact with the sensor element (tip).. I wonder if the sensors are toast.

Well that is another great thought. My bags were definitely as you described.

[wareaglescott]

Not much to report on the pcm issues. Waiting to hear back from Ford. Anxious to get that resolved.

I have been thinking about and looking at lifts for a while. Ordered a 4 post yesterday and it should be here about February 1. I am excited to get that up and running.
I went with the Bend Pak HD-9XW. It is long enough,wide enough and with enough lift that I can park my F-150 with the 4 door crew cab underneath it. My primary purpose of the lift is for storage allowing me to park all my cars indoors (truck has been outside since I got the Cobra) but I am sure it will be very handy for working on the Cobra and anything else I would like to do with my other vehicles. This lift has a 9000 lb capacity. Interestingly there is a chart that shows with shorter wheelbases you are limited on how much you can lift. For the 90" wheelbase Cobra that reduces you to about 42% of the rated max so about 3800lbs. That is still plenty obviously. I guess the further away the wheels are sitting from the corner posts the less weight you can load on it.

The lift has some available options. I got the drip trays that go between the ramps. They offer a very nice looking pneumatic scissor jack that goes between the ramps. I am considering that and may add that to my order before it ships next week. They also offer longer approach ramps that are made for low ride height vehicles. From the data I got I think the Cobra should work nicely with the standard ramps that are included. If not I will order the longer ramps later.

I have a main garage with a high ceiling and a high lift garage door opener that will provide ample room for the lift. My basement garage is where I keep all my tools and have been building the Cobra but it is to small for this lift. I will have to see if the lift will end up causing me to migrate all my tools upstairs. If I send the wife down to park in the basement garage I am not sure how well that will go over! haha

The lift has either a 110 or 220 motor. The lift time was about 45 seconds with the 220 and 90 with the 110. The 110 motor has a high amp draw and they recommend a 30 amp breaker. That exceeds my current garage outlets capability and since I am going to need to beef up the electrical anyways I decided to go with the 220 motor. Luckily the main power box for the house is right on the outside wall of the garage so running a 220 line and outlet should be pretty simple. I have an electrician friend coming over to help me with that.

They quoted me about $800 to install the lift. Decided that was not worth it and it would be fun to do myself. The delivery options where either pick it up at the freight terminal or have it brought to the house. If they brought it to the house you are responsible for getting it off the delivery truck yourself. The package is 17' long and about 2100 lbs. I do not have a forklift so I decided it would be best to pick it up at the freight terminal. They will load it onto your trailer there. I plan to just back the trailer with the loaded package into my garage and then use my engine hoist to pick it up off the trailer and have a couple buddies stabilize the ends to keep it from swinging. Then drive the trailer out from under it and set it down. Once I do that we can start unpacking the individual pieces. Im thinking at 2100 lbs the heaviest piece are probably the ramps and those should be maybe 400lbs each. That should be manageable with the help of friends. Pretty much everyone on my street has helped me on this project at some point along the way. We are blessed with some amazing neighbors that are always willing to help.

If anyone has experience unpacking one of these or moving the package around any tips or lessons learned are appreciated.

[edwardb]

Congrats on the 4-post. That will be a nice addition and will interested in your feedback about it. I'm still slightly on the bubble whether to put a 2 or 4-post in my new garage. My only suggestion would be take the 2000+ lb skid apart while still on the trailer and use your lift to pick off individual components. I wouldn't be too excited about trying to manhandle all the weight at once. Once you start cutting the banding and such it comes apart into more manageable pieces. That's what we did with my (much lighter!) MaxJax 2-post when it was delivered.

Was thinking about your Coyote issues. Fresh out of ideas here... Any chance a local Ford dealer or independent garage with the right equipment could hook up to the ODB-II connector and read what's happening with your engine while it's running? Even though it's not throwing any codes, perhaps they might learn something about why it's not running right. At least get things pointed in the right direction for problem solving. Just a thought.

[bluse]

You will not be dissapointed with the lift, its the same model I have and its awesome. As far as the scissor jack, I think it is a must have for the lift. Actually I went so far as to buy both the scissor jack and the lifting jack tray which allows me to get all four tires off the ramps. I did not buy the extended ramps , I do have a car that is lower then the Cobra and (2) 2' pieces of 2x10 solves the problem. After watching your build thread assembling the lift will not be a problem. My wife and I spent about 8 hours assembling mine. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions about the purchase or the assmbly.

[wareaglescott]

Spent the better part of the last 3 days working with Ford tech support trying to figure out why I am getting this P0102 code indicating an issue with the MAF sensor. To long to detail all the troubleshooting steps but essentially everything they have me check comes back ok and Ford seems to be baffled as to what is causing the issue. I did find out yesterday at Fords direction the car will start and run without the MAF sensor connected. It runs really bad though!

I still suspect it is a problem with the PCM. Previously the Ford engineer that was helping me agreed with that assessment, sent me a replacement pcm and it immediately fixed the issue. Well he got promoted out of that job and his replacement is convinced it is not a pcm issue this time. I understand his logic but then again the exact same variable, conditions and results that caused the last issues are happening now. Last time a replacement pcm fixed the problem but they seem totally unwilling to try that again. Sometimes the solutions that work just don't make sense.

Last I heard yesterday evening from Ford is they are going to send me a new coyote harness and want me to completely rewire the car. The were testing my original PCM that they still have on an actual motor to see if they could replicate the fault at the end of business yesterday and once that was done the next step was to send a new harness.

I have mixed emotions on that. I told them it would take me 2 minutes to check a replacement PCM and 2 weeks to change out the harness so how about humoring me and letting me try a PCM first.
However, I have had a couple oddities electrically since I started this. First when I received the harness my ODB plug was not working. Come to find out Ford sent a batch out with 2 wires going to the wrong position. I had to correct that and after that the OBD has worked fine. I have always wondered if the harness was incorrect there are there any other areas that are also messed up. Additionally my SCT X4 tuner has never worked properly when plugging into the OBD. I have verified the X4 works on my F150 and even went as far as to send the tuner to EdwardB for him to check on his. He had full functionality with it on his car. MY SCT X3 tuner works perfectly on the Cobra. There is some oddity causing that. Lastly, when I was initially connecting the battery I accidentally touched the wrench to the frame and the positive terminal and sent a surge through the system. Now no fuses were blown and the first 6 weeks of the car running were flawless. I have contemplated if there is possibly something going on related to that.

I am not looking forward to changing the harness as that will require some pretty major deconstruction of the go cart but if that fixes whatever the issue is that will definitely be worth it. I guess my dissatisfaction with the delay waiting on paint is working out ok now because it looks like I will have a fair amount of work to accomplish and I would much rather get everything squared away before the body is in position. That would just complicate things working around the body.

Another interesting note. The Ford engineer was having me send him pictures yesterday. When he saw the layout of the MAF sensor and air intake tube his response was "that is a horrible position for the MAF you are definitely going to need a custom tune." While he agrees the positioning is not the cause of this code I thought it was interesting he said that. There seems to be a lot of coyote powered FFRs with that exact setup running just fine without custom tunes. I agree you may not be getting maximum performance from the motor without a custom tune but thought his reaction was interesting. Will worry about that down the road I guess.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Oh man...:( For testing and troubleshooting purposes I sure as heck wouldn't do any deconstruction but simply drape the replacement harness over the chassis and plug it in. Good luck.

Jeff

[Jdav]

Sorry you are having so much trouble Scott. I hope a solution is found quickly (and as easily as possible).

[wareaglescott]

Oh man...:( For testing and troubleshooting purposes I sure as heck wouldn't do any deconstruction but simply drape the replacement harness over the chassis and plug it in. Good luck.

Jeff

Well getting to the installed coyote harness to unplug it is the majority of the work and they way the coyote pigtail is wired in leaves me limited options on how to proceed. To the extent I can I will follow this advice. Thanks Jeff

[Duke]

My bet, vacuum leak or the tune has the fuel trims way off causing the MAF to be very far out of normal range. My suggested trouble shooting steps:

1. Visual inspection of all vac lines. Anything not completely sealed or clamped down?
2. Starting fluid or carb cleaner test around the intake and all other vacuum lines while running. Any change in idle?
3. Hand pump test on each line to see if there is any leaks.

This link may be helpful. Note, if you are only getting the CEL after the engine is running it's most likely not wiring.
http://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0102/

[wareaglescott]

My bet, vacuum leak or the tune has the fuel trims way off causing the MAF to be very far out of normal range. My suggested trouble shooting steps:

1. Visual inspection of all vac lines. Anything not completely sealed or clamped down?
2. Starting fluid or carb cleaner test around the intake and all other vacuum lines while running. Any change in idle?
3. Hand pump test on each line to see if there is any leaks.

This link may be helpful. Note, if you are only getting the CEL after the engine is running it's most likely not wiring.
http://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0102/

Thanks Ryan. Good info at that link.

[wareaglescott]

None of my previous troubleshooting has worked out. At Duke's suggestion I took another look at the vacuum system. No different results. Ford sent me the new Coyote harness so I am about to do a rewire on that. Later today I am getting another package. Ford sent me back my original PCMas well to try that again. I am going to give that another shot and then I will begin removing the drivers footbox top panels and the dash so I can access the coyote harness and replace it.
I always read not to put the top of the drivers foot box back on until you are sure you won't need to get back in there. I thought I was safe after about 40 miles of go carting. I guess not! haha

I sure hope this fixes the issue. It is going to be pretty disappointing to swap the entire harness and find out that wasn't the problem! When I first got the original harness some of the wires were in the wrong position in the OBD plug. I corrected that but have always wondered if that was wrong what else might be wrong on the harness. Hopefully this new harness will be the fix for the mystery issue!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63196&d=1485278058

[Duke]

Sorry you have to go through the wiring again. Glad Ford stepped up to help solve the problem. Hopefully it will be faster the second time around.

[edwardb]

Sorry you have to go through the wiring again. Glad Ford stepped up to help solve the problem. Hopefully it will be faster the second time around.

x2 (big time!) on each of Duke's comments.

[Dave Howard]

Just a thought.....have you checked to make sure you didn't install the MAF sensor in backwards?

[wareaglescott]

Just a thought.....have you checked to make sure you didn't install the MAF sensor in backwards?

Ha yes about 7 times. Ford tech support didn't believe me so they had me take a picture of it and its orientation! Appreciate the thought though.

[wareaglescott]

I performed the harness swap last night and today. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Took about 6 hours of work. I found it was much easier just to replicate what I had previously done vs having to think it all through the first time. As usual Paul (edwardb) was very helpful with my questions. I was very pleased to be able to get the old harness out and the new one in without having to remove the dash. Here is the carcass of the old one:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63229&d=1485375528

I was pretty nervous when it came time to crank up. First thing I did was plug in my handheld tuner. I have an SCT X3 from a previous car that is a little older and a new X4. The X4 has never previously worked while the X3 has always worked great on the Cobra. The X4 has always worked fine on my F150 so I knew it was a Cobra issue. I decided prior to starting I would try out the X4. Well guess what it worked flawlessly! That was a first and a good sign. After that I cranked up and the car ran fine. Took about 30 seconds to stabilize but after that it returned to its previous smooth operation. Ford had told me no DTC codes would show up if there were any until the second start cycle. After it idled for about a minute I shut it down and went ahead with the second start cycle. Still ran great. I got it off the jack stands and went on about a 5 mile spin around the neighborhood. It is running great and no DTCs. I am optimistic it will be good to go now.

I will be sending the original harness to Ford for them to look at and see if they can tell what the issue was. I will be very interested to hear. Either the harness was bad from the beginning or I screwed something up on the install.

A couple things:
1. That harness came with some incorrect wiring that Ford had to guide me on how to fix. If that was wrong maybe something else was as well.
2. Prior to first power up when I was connecting the battery I had an accidental power surge when the wrench touched the frame. That very well could have fried something and been my fault all along. It is funny how everything worked perfect for about 6 weeks/50 miles before I had any issues. Hard to explain the set of circumstances that occurred.

Not sure I will ever know the results. I am quite happy to hopefully have all those electrical issues behind me for good!

Another exciting piece of news. I heard from Whitby yesterday and he indicated I should have my go cart there at the end of February for body install. I am optimistic that timetable will hold up and I can get to the final stages of the build.

[Misterfubar]

Nice. Glad to see you got this all figured out. Seeing the issues you were having almost made me slightly hesitant to order my Coyote.

[Jdav]

Whoo Hoo!!:cool:

[wareaglescott]

Nice. Glad to see you got this all figured out. Seeing the issues you were having almost made me slightly hesitant to order my Coyote.

I would not hesitate. Either my harness was bad which I would assume is extremely rare or I screwed something up. Ford tech support has been extremely helpful. At least I have confidence if I do have further issues of any kind I can get good help.

[Vette1972]

Way to go Scott! Persistence is ever powerful! Enjoy, Len

[edwardb]

Congratulations! I have a little bit of an idea how frustrating and discouraging this was. Way to hang it there and wrestle in down. Would be really interesting to find out what about the harness caused the issues. Very strange, but obviously that was the problem.

Too bad Ford wants that harness back. I would have "accidentally" run over it a few times and it wouldn't look nearly so good as it does in your pictures. :mad:

[wareaglescott]

Congratulations! I have a little bit of an idea how frustrating and discouraging this was. Way to hang it there and wrestle in down. Would be really interesting to find out what about the harness caused the issues. Very strange, but obviously that was the problem.

Too bad Ford wants that harness back. I would have "accidentally" run over it a few times and it wouldn't look nearly so good as it does in your pictures. :mad:

Being the pack rat I am I was hoping to keep it for spare parts! Maybe I will drag my feet sending it back and see what happens. :D

[RR20AC]

Yes!

[wareaglescott]

Had another test drive today and everything is working great. Looking good like my issue is resolved.
Now I am in the process of getting my parts together to send to Whitby with the go cart. Pretty exciting going through the boxes and realizing how little I have left to do. Cant wait to get that body installed.
Not much time to work on the car in the near future. I have a family vacation starting tomorrow and then when I get back my 4 post lift should be here. Look forward to putting that together.

Then I will have a couple projects before I ship the car off.
My list contains:
Make and install a radiator protector
Swap my fighter stick out for the regular stick because I don't want the stick leaving my possession.
Take the seats out
Install the rest of the weatherstrip/bulb seal

Really not to much left. Today as I was coming home from my test ride my neighbor had a mobile "wheel doctor" at his house repairing his rims that had suffered some curb scrapes. The guy came over to check out the Cobra. The finish of the wheel knock offs has really been bothering me. I asked him what he could do and he took them to polish them up and he is going to color match the inset part of the spinner with the gray of the wheels. I think it should look really nice. The wheel color is very close to the color of my car so it should work out nicely. Will post a picture when I get them back next week.

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Hope I don't have to go through any of that but good to know Ford offers support if I do.
Can't wait to see all put together.
-Steve

[M3ichael]

Congratulations on the fix. Sucks you have to send it back to Ford. Will they update you if they find anything wrong with it?

[wareaglescott]

Congratulations on the fix. Sucks you have to send it back to Ford. Will they update you if they find anything wrong with it?

Not sure if I will ever hear. The harness has something wrong with it so it has no real value to me. Ford is paying for the shipping. The spare PCM though. That has some value to me....

[wareaglescott]

I mentioned last week I had found a guy to polish the knock offs and paint the little indentions on the spinner arms to match the wheel color. I was really disappointed with the finish they came with. He brought them back to me today. The change is really subtle and the lighting was not great for a picture but I am happy with how they look. Has a little more of a finished look to them. Nobody but me will probably notice them but once I notice a fault I cant stop looking at it! This small upgrade will keep me from being bothered by them! haha

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63573&d=1486063200
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63574&d=1486063208

When I was going through all my pcm/maf issues fellow forum member Duke was very helpful with some suggestions. Included in our discussions was some data logging he had done for his custom tune and the data indicated when his engine fan kicked on it was disturbing the airflow going into the intake. He installed a Spectre performance air filter heat shield to remedy that. I liked the idea and thought I would do the same. Now I have no idea if this will benefit me in any way running the stock tune but I figure worst case it can not hurt anything so I wanted to give it a try.

I ordered the specter performance 8130.
Here it is:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63570&d=1486063174

As with anything on the Cobra it is a tight fit. I had to modify it a bit to fit around the X brace running up below the filter. I have never had the hood hinge in place yet. I believe I have the filter angled down enough not to cause a space conflict. It is possible it will need to go lower in which case I will have to further modify this part.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63571&d=1486063182

Here it is installed. Did a quick test run up and down the street with no issues.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63572&d=1486063191

Just got word my 4 post lift has arrived at the freight terminal so me and a buddy are about to go pick it up. Very excited for that. Curiously if you had them deliver it you had to get the 2400 lb package off the truck by yourself. If you pick it up they will load it on your trailer for you. That is the best option so here we go. Will be interested to see how heavy the individual pieces are!

[RR20AC]

spinners look nice, something I have to deal with soon. thanks.

[WIS89]

Scott-

Nice decision on the spinners; really completes the look.

I hope everything with the lift goes well, and it gets installed without issue.

Also, so pleased that the mysterious engine problem has been resolved. I don't imagine replacing the harness was a job to relish, but very happy it resolved your problem!

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Well all I have to say is this lift has some HEAVY parts to it!
Started off yesterday going to the freight terminal to pick it up. Took them maneuvering 2 forklifts to get it on the trailer. That was quite a process in itself.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63604&d=1486155064

I guess the freight terminal did not have one of those giant forklift with the long arms that this crate was designed for. After we got it home just breaking down the package was a chore. Ended up picking up the heaviest piece with the engine crane and getting it to the ground. After that 4 of us manhandled the rest of the pieces.
Here is the pile of parts waiting for construction.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63605&d=1486155073

Got the four corner posts erected and the cross tubes. The cross tubes were really heavy and getting them up to the top of the posts that are about 10' tall and lowering them down was a three man job.(I got the extra wide, extra high lift so I can park my truck under it. The short ladder in the pic is 6')
Here is where is sits now. Had to do a couple steps over. The directions are pretty crappy.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63606&d=1486155083

Now I am up to installing the ramps. They are extremely heavy. Gonna need to recruit some more neighbors tomorrow. Hopefully with some help I can get this thing completed this weekend. Lucky that I have some great neighbors always willing to lend a hand!

[Straversi]

You are buying the lift when you car is 98% done? You must be making room for your next project. Gen III Coupe? 33? Can't wait to watch the next wareagle episode?

[wareaglescott]

You are buying the lift when you car is 98% done? You must be making room for your next project. Gen III Coupe? 33? Can't wait to watch the next wareagle episode?

I am primarily buying the lift for storage. Currently I have 1 more car than I have garage spaces and my truck has been living outside since the cobra showed up. I got the extra long and high lift so my truck will fit under it. That is what I am currently telling my wife. (She is very supportive though).
...however the truck being outside isn't so bad and now my workshop garage could be empty with room for a project ;)

[GoDadGo]

I am primarily buying the lift for storage. Currently I have 1 more car than I have garage spaces and my truck has been living outside since the cobra showed up. I got the extra long and high lift so my truck will fit under it. That is what I am currently telling my wife. (She is very supportive though).
...however the truck being outside isn't so bad and now my workshop garage could be empty with room for a project ;)

Shhhhhhhh > You're tipping your hand War Eagle! > Shhhhhhhh

[wareaglescott]

Lift install continues. Had some friends help me get the ramps into position. Actually was quite easy using the engine crane. It is amazing how many uses I have found for that thing other than lifting engines! I hoped to complete the install yesterday. The directions and illustrations leave a lot to be desired. I have a question about the secondary safety lock and deemed it best not to proceed until I can talk to Bendpak on Monday and get my question answered. There is going to be a lot of money sitting on and under this lift. I want to make absolutely sure the safety devices are working as designed. Like the car there is definitely a learning curve on installation as I have had to do a couple steps over thanks to the weak directions.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63633&d=1486303244

While I wait for that I worked on my radiator protector.

I ordered a nomex honeycomb product from speedway motors. Looks like they are used for dirt track racing. I liked the simplicity of the install and it was pretty cheap so I figured I would give this a try. You can trim it to your desired size very easily with a utility knife.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Honeycomb-Radiator-Protector-19-x-26-Inch,3545.html

Here is a cross section of the trimmed off piece.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63635&d=1486303264

I also got an attachment kit from amazon.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63632&d=1486303232

Sprayed it flat black and here it is installed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63634&d=1486303256

[wareaglescott]

I finished installing the lift today. I put basically three 9 hour days into getting it installed. Would have been much more cost effective to pay the $850 to have it installed but I am glad I did it now. Still need to fine tune the cable tension just a bit. After it has had some weight on it they should stretch a little. After a few up/down cycles with it empty I was confident but still a little nervous to put my new Audi on there! Let that sit about 10 minutes to make sure it seemed good and then pulled the Cobra under for the picture. The Cobra is still in my basement garage workshop for now. Ultimately I am going to park my F150 under the lift. Thought the Cobra would provide for a better pic! haha
I was anticipating the lift when I built the house 2 years ago and I installed a high lift garage door opener that mounts on the front wall of the garage so there are no hanging door openers to get in the way. That worked out beautifully. Now I can raise things up the full 13' to the ceiling.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63784&d=1486500516

I also opted to get the pneumatic driven hydraulic jack that rides up and down the rails. Forgot to get a picture of it extended. It was a heavy sucker. Another great use for the engine crane getting it in position.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63785&d=1486500527

Looking forward to the flexibility in both storage and maintenance options the 4 post lift will provide.

[Vette1972]

Scott,

Awesome lift! Really nice addition.

Len

[wareaglescott]

I locked in my color selections today.
I was already 95% sure but a fellow forum member made mention of automotivetouchup.com that allows you to order paint mixed to the factory codes. I decided to order a can of each color to have on hand and also to make up a sample piece. Previously all I had were the spray out cards. Here it is:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63947&d=1486994856

The colors are:

body - dark labyrinth - ppg 923677
stripes - atomic orange - ppg 914927

I will be getting the go cart to Whitby in the next couple weeks for body install.

[Railroad]

Scott,
Did you have to shorten the rods on your brake master cylinders? I have the same brand as yours and Mine are very close on having enough room to adj the bias. If so, how much did you cut off. Thanks,

[wareaglescott]

Scott,
Did you have to shorting the rods on your brake master cylinders? I have the same brand as yours and Mine are very close on having enough room to adj the bias. If so, how much did you cut off. Thanks,

I did not. With that being said I have never set bias before so I may have to make some adjustments when I get out on the road. Brakes seem to work good so far but I also haven't been able to properly bed the pads in yet because I can't get up to speed in my neighborhood and that is the extent of my driving so far.

[WIS89]

Scott-

Your color spray out looks awesome! It's going to look awesome on the whole car!

I am also very jealous of your new lift. That is going to be a game changer for you, I suspect.

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Scott-

Your color spray out looks awesome! It's going to look awesome on the whole car!

I am also very jealous of your new lift. That is going to be a game changer for you, I suspect.

Regards,

Steve

Thanks Steve. I cant wait to see some color on it! Maybe you will see it before I do on your visit to Whitby.

[wareaglescott]

I had the engine/coil covers painted to match my exterior colors. Really pleased how they look! Cant wait to see this thing together!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64035&d=1487184940
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64036&d=1487184953

[stack]

Did you paint them? Or have it done? Looks great

stack

[Brew211]

Wow, that looks incredible!!!!

[wareaglescott]

Did you paint them? Or have it done? Looks great

stack

I had them done.

[Boydster]

That does look nice... classy.

[Vette1972]

Scott,

Top notch!

Len

[wareaglescott]

Thanks for the nice comments. The go cart gets picked up Tuesday for transport to Whitby. Have a few items to accomplish this weekend to get it ready.

[srobinsonx2]

Nice Scott. I like your color scheme. Painting the engine parts to match is a great idea.

Looking at your new lift is going to cost me.....I kust know it! :)

[wareaglescott]

My go cart is getting picked up Tuesday for transport to Whitby in Greensboro for the body install. I had a list of items I wanted to accomplish prior to sending it away.
Including:
seat out
exhaust heat shields off
fighter stick shifter swap to the regular shifter
remove trans tunnel cover
remove wheel knock offs
recheck all bolts for proper tightness
charge the battery
some minimal interior protection to protect the carpet
swap the steering wheel
Install the threaded rods into the bumper couplers
Pack and label all parts Whitby will be needing

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64174&d=1487442305

My plan is for Whitby to install the body and doors, hood, and trunk including all hinges. I am also having them install their upgraded side vents which are painted to match the body color and install the windshield.
Not sure how long the car will be gone but I sure will be anxious to get it back!

Final tally on the go cart was 77 miles. Is that some sort of record? haha
All those miles were within my neighborhood. I sure am excited to drive on some real streets!

Also today I tried the pneumatic jack on the lift. Works great and really a neat piece of equipment. It slides fore/aft the length of the ramps and can be adjusted to any width so you can hit any jacking point. I also have a jack stand tray that slides so I can get all 4 wheels off the ramps very easily if need be.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64175&d=1487442317
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64176&d=1487442333

[RR20AC]

Very exciting times for you. I'm trying to get my list done too. I have a few more weeks than you to get the details done. How long will yours be there? Colors are great and did they paint the engine parts?

[wareaglescott]

Very exciting times for you. I'm trying to get my list done too. I have a few more weeks than you to get the details done. How long will yours be there? Colors are great and did they paint the engine parts?

Not sure how long it will be there. Jeff told me to have it there at the end of February. Honestly at this point I have stopped expecting any time estimates from them. He once told me I'm not gonna rush on the car before yours to get to yours and I'm not gonna rush on yours to get to the next. I can respect that and appreciate the commitment to doing a good job however long it takes. I would like it to be quick because I'm just impatient! I know I will be satisfied with the end result.

Whitby did not paint the cover. I'm not sure if the vendor is a forum sponsor so I won't mention the name but feel free to message me for the details.

[Misterfubar]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=57340&d=1470864598



Where did you get that engine cradle? I've been searching for a stand like that and I just haven't had much luck finding one for a mod motor.


*Edit. Of course right after I post this I find the Stumpy's Fab cradle. Looks like what you have and will suit my needs.

[wareaglescott]

Where did you get that engine cradle? I've been searching for a stand like that and I just haven't had much luck finding one for a mod motor.


*Edit. Of course right after I post this I find the Stumpy's Fab cradle. Looks like what you have and will suit my needs.

Yep got it from Stumpy's. Worked great and very nicely built. I will say communication took a couple attempts before I got a reply. I am assuming he is a one man operation. Be patient on the communication.

[Misterfubar]

Yep got it from Stumpy's. Worked great and very nicely built. I will say communication took a couple attempts before I got a reply. I am assuming he is a one man operation. Be patient on the communication.

Good to know on the communication. Thanks. If I can't get it in a week or two I can just do without. The motor won't spend but a few days on the cradle, I just want it for convenience.

[wareaglescott]

My go cart was picked up today for transport to Whitby. Not sure what I will do with my free time until it comes back! haha

Work is taking me to Greensboro on Thursday so I will be able to go by the shop and get some in progress pictures of the body. Looking forward to that.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64284&d=1487698226

First person other than me to drive it! That was kind of interesting to hear the exhaust note from the outside.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64285&d=1487698240

[carlewms]

I had the engine/coil covers painted to match my exterior colors. Really pleased how they look! Cant wait to see this thing together!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64035&d=1487184940
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64036&d=1487184953

Those are simply stunning ... BTW a local guy in our area had Whitby do his paint. It was unbelievable beautiful.

He also did a safety check on the car ...

Carl

[wareaglescott]

Work took me to Greensboro this week so I was able to make a visit to Whitby. That worked out great because my car had just arrived there the day before. I was able to go over exactly what I wanted done with the man that will be installing my body and that cleared up a few questions I had about the process. To a man everyone I have spoke with on my visits to Whitby is extremely nice and really cares about the product they are putting out. Of course I wish things would happen a little faster but I am very happy to have them working on the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64423&d=1488024530

Then I went over to the paint and body work building and checked on the body. Here it is (the white spot on the nose is where I edited the picture. It has a piece of green tape with my name on it. That white isn't on the body)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64424&d=1488024544

Currently it is in slick sand. I know nothing about body work but Whitby seems to have a few going at the same time. They indicated they like to do a step and then let it set up/ cure for a certain time period before going on to the next step. There work comes out beautiful so they seem to have the process down how they like to do it. They were about to sand mine again and then primer is next. Then I think they said more sanding, then color will be coming. Looks like it will take another month anyways before I get the car back.

I had an interesting talk with the painter about laying out my triple stripe and how I wanted the thickness of the stripes to be and the thickness of the gaps between the large middle stripe and the two small outer stripes. Also what would look best with the stripes in relation to the hood scoop and front end openings. Something I never considered is he said the stripes where not really straight. He said there are seven tapers from front to back to make them look best in relation to the curves of the body. I thought that was an interesting point. He and I are on the same page about how I want the stripes to look so I just left it at his discretion on the exact measurements and spacing to make it look the best.

I am really a type A control freak so just waiting at home for this to finish with nothing to work on will be the hardest part of the build for me! haha
I cant wait to get the Cobra home and to finish this build.
In the meantime I have a few things I am considering doing. Thinking about painting the back of the Kirkeys black to match the seat covers and a few other small details.

[wareaglescott]

Small update - the body is now in primer. Whitby also test fit the body to my chassis. Up until now they have done all the body work on their own frame at the shop. Jeff at Whitby said the body went on my go cart with no problems. He did indicate in the past for whatever reason sometimes they run into issues at that stage. Glad mine worked out nicely. Next is blocking and then hopefully I will see some pictures with color soon!

[wareaglescott]

I have spent considerable time learning from others build threads. The amount of information is awesome. One problem I discovered was knowing I had read something and having to search through a long build thread to find it. I have learned a lot of lessons as a first time builder and have tried to be pretty good about documenting it. I decided to make an index so if anyone if looking for a particular item or area it may be a little easier to find in my thread. I am going to post this in the first post of the thread and update it as I continue to update the thread. Hopefully this will be useful to someone and save them some time.

This is pretty a simple index. Sometimes the information continues for multiple posts. This should get you in the general area though.


13 - inventory
18 - removing panels
44 - drivers side front footbox fill panel
48 - front LCA
51 - powder coat items
59 - front suspension
61 - front brakes
64 - irs prep
66 - rear wheel studs
71 - irs install
74 - irs control arms
77 - finish irs/ rear brakes
85 - heat shield
87 - pedal box install/ notch clutch pedal
106 - firewall support piece
110 - triple reservoir/ irs vent
113 - battery tray/ radiator mount
117 - footbox aluminum
119 - footbox heat/sound insulation
120 - fan shroud/ battery tray/ Ebrake cables
123 - fuel pump/ tank install
124 - Coyote engine lift plates
125 - homemade fuel vent filter
126 - oil pan change
127 - Alternator and power steering pump install
128 - clutch and transmission install
134 - wheels
143 - fuel regulator
148 - rolling chassis
150 - coyote clutch safety switches (hydrualic clutch)
151 - accel pedal/ fuse box
152 - brake lines
156 - cockpit aluminum
157 - transmission spacers/ engine install
160 - driveshaft/ driveshaft safety loop
166 - ebrake cable mod/ reinstall proper driveshaft
170 - transmission fluid
175 - coyote pcm
184 - brake bleeding
187 - rear harness/ trunk and cockpit aluminum/ clutch bleeding
193 - breeze quick disconnect steering wheel mod
200 - power steering (first lines, replaced later)
204 - coyote harness install
207 - heat shield and power wiring
208 - engine ground
210 - tach wiring/ coyote harness
213 - power steering revised lines
214 - coolant system
217 - removable dash
221 - horns
222 - engine complete/ dash prep
223 - ride height
224 - FIRST START!!
234 - fire extinguisher/ roll bar
240 - seat harness install
243 - alignment and first go cart
250 - weatherpacks for head lights/tail lights
258 - coyote pcm update code P0116
259 - seat heaters
262 - kirkey seat mounts/ lumbar supports and seat heaters
263 - drivers footbox
264 - cockpit heat and sound shield
265 - coyote vacuum system mod/ removable transmission tunnel
270 - brake line rub
272 - transmission tunnel covering
276 - 278 kirkey seat mounting/ carpet
282 - interior
289 - trunk carpet/ phone charger
291 - pedal box and exhaust pipe temps
297 - interior work
298 - drivers footbox panels
301 - wheel centers
302 - wheel and splash guards
311 - engine dress up
316 - paint samples
322 - door strap dye - dye to black
327 - trunk kit
350 - fuel pump failure
356 - license plate mod
359 - rear bumper couplers
376 - replacing coyote wiring harness
394 - knock offs painted / air intake shroud
401- nomex radiator protector
404 - final color selection
409 - painted engine cover
417 - deconstruct and ship to Whitby for body install

[bluse]

Thanks for the index, awesome!

[Vette1972]

Scott,

Nice index! this should be a great resource for all to use.

Thanks,
Len

[Railroad]

Scott, you are the man. I am still building and resort to build threads frequently to answer questions. You were kind enough to give me some thread pages for assistance. This new index will be like a book in hand. Thanks for the work.

[GoDadGo]

I worked on my radiator protector.

I ordered a nomex honeycomb product from speedway motors. Looks like they are used for dirt track racing. I liked the simplicity of the install and it was pretty cheap so I figured I would give this a try. You can trim it to your desired size very easily with a utility knife.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Honeycomb-Radiator-Protector-19-x-26-Inch,3545.html

Here is a cross section of the trimmed off piece.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63635&d=1486303264

I also got an attachment kit from amazon.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63632&d=1486303232

Sprayed it flat black and here it is installed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63634&d=1486303256

Scott,

What A Great Idea!
If it works on the dirt tracks, it should give great radiator protection on the street.
Painting it was a nice touch so I'll be sure to order one as soon as I finish this post.
Thanks-O-Million!

Steve

[GoDadGo]

Item Ordered From Speedway!

[wareaglescott]

Item Ordered From Speedway!

Takes a lot of paint to get coverage. I probably did about 10 light applications. Did want to get to much in the honeycomb.

[wareaglescott]

Huge thanks to WIS89 for sending me these pictures of the body in progress at Whitby. Previously they have done all the body work on their own frame. Here they were test fitting my primed body on my chassis. They will be taking it back off and blocking it and then color should be coming soon. I am excited to see the progress and color. Very appreciative that WIS89 took and sent the pictures when he went by the shop!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64745&d=1488809914
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64746&d=1488809926
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64747&d=1488809936
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64748&d=1488809944

[edwardb]

Congrats! Feels great to see it at that stage, doesn't it?

[wareaglescott]

Congrats! Feels great to see it at that stage, doesn't it?

Sure does. Im going to really freak out when I see some color!

[wareaglescott]

First glimpse of color from the paint shop. Not much to say other than I love it and am really excited. This seems to make it more real!http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64808&d=1489005854

[GoDadGo]

Nice Color!

How close is it to your wheels?

Was that the intended choice?

Just Wondering & Glad He's Moving Along Quickly!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Like the color but surprised to see that they did not drill the holes for the hood latches or scoop fasteners before paint :confused:

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Like the color but surprised to see that they did not drill the holes for the hood latches or scoop fasteners before paint :confused:

Jeff

I have no idea what their process is. I was wondering about that. All the finished projects looked great that I have seen so I'm confident in the outcome. I was also wondering if they painted the body or stripe color first. Maybe this indicates the body.

GoDad the wheels are close to the body color but not exact. Not intended to match. I figure everyone with those wheels has the same color so the body color didn't need to match. I don't think the slight difference will bother me but no way to know until it's done.

[WarDamnEagle]

Scott, thanks for the index. If you're idle hands are jonesing for cobra work, then shoot over to bham and ill let you drill and rivet some panels. I got my kit in last week.

[wareaglescott]

Small update. Paint work is progressing at Whitby's. I am visiting there next Monday to see the painted body. I am having the car shipped home to me but wanted to lay eyes on the paint work before it leaves the shop. I do not believe the car will be completely ready by then because I am having them install the windshield and a few other items. Paint work should be ready to inspect though. Very excited to see the paint. Hope to have the car home in the next few weeks to finish up.

In the meantime I have started working on the registration process for Alabama. The first step is to submit some paperwork which they will review and then I will take the completed car for an inspection and they will install the VIN plate. The paperwork will take weeks to process and I have all the required information so I figured I would get that going concurrently to minimize the time spent waiting for inspection.

[Straversi]

Good luck with the registration. Must be pulling your hair out waiting.
-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Good luck with the registration. Must be pulling your hair out waiting.
-Steve

I am certainty ready for it to be back.
I have found the bodywork/paint aspect of this project to be the only part that isn't 100% enjoyable. I'm just not willing to do it myself so that puts you on someone's else timetable which is hard for this self proclaimed control freak! Haha
I'm confident in the end product and the wait is almost over.

[wareaglescott]

Jeff at Whitby sent me this picture this morning. I am very excited to see some color on the car. He indicated they are taping the stripes now. Hoping to see some body color in the near future!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65353&d=1490106195

[GoDadGo]

WareEagleScott,

> I can't wait to see how your stripes come out.
> As I stated earlier, I never intended to put stripes on my car, but love your pattern.
> If I pilfer your pattern the center stripes will be gun metal gray to match my wheels and red over the rest of the body.
> Also, it looks like Jeff is moving quicker than I thought he would so I'm glad I was wrong regarding my earlier concern.

Good Luck, Looks Great & I Know You Can't Wait!

Steve

[wareaglescott]

WareEagleScott,

> I can't wait to see how your stripes come out.
> As I stated earlier, I never intended to put stripes on my car, but love your pattern.
> If I pilfer your pattern the center stripes will be gun metal gray to match my wheels and red over the rest of the body.
> Also, it looks like Jeff is moving quicker than I thought he would so I'm glad I was wrong regarding my earlier concern.

Good Luck, Looks Great & I Know You Can't Wait!

Steve

Thanks Steve. You are so non traditional with the engine choice you might as well match that with a non traditional stripe choice!
That sounds like a great looking color combination. The majority of the country will think I'm crazy but as a resident of SEC country I think you can understand why this Auburn man had to disqualify all colors of red, burgundy from consideration before I even got started. lol
My color choice is unique for sure. The die cast model I painted up looks good but I sure am anxious to see the actual in person!!

[GoDadGo]

I totally get the SEC thing and my Father-N-Law wants me to paint my car Purple & Gold, even though I didn't go to LSU.

Your car will be the talk of your town once completed.

By the way, it will look way better than Purple & Gold!

[wareaglescott]

Pretty excited to get these pictures today. I love how it is looking. It is certainly unique and non traditional. I am sure it is not for everyone but I sure am pleased. Cant wait to see it in person next Monday when I visit Whitby. Really starting the see the completion of this project coming soon!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65409&d=1490202156

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65410&d=1490202178

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65411&d=1490203472

[GoDadGo]

I'm Really Thinking I'll Be Copying Your Stripe Design!

Does It Look Great Or What?

Now For The Clear!

[Boydster]

Dude, this is gonna look so good.

[carlewms]

This is well on its way to looking fantastic ... I have seen Whitby's work and it is pretty incredible.

I too am very fond of your stripe choice; and will also be an imitator of same in the future. It looks like the hood scoop would be all in the stripe color ... is that correct?

Congratulations,

Carl

[wareaglescott]

This is well on its way to looking fantastic ... I have seen Whitby's work and it is pretty incredible.

I too am very fond of your stripe choice; and will also be an imitator of same in the future. It looks like the hood scoop would be all in the stripe color ... is that correct?

Congratulations,

Carl

Thanks Carl!
Yes the hood scoop will be completely within the stripe.
My initial thoughts on this pattern in my mind was 3 stripes. The center stripe a little thinner and the outer stripes a little thicker than what I ended up with. After conversations with Jeff at Whitby and the painter that lays the stripes out I explained what I was wanting and told them to use their judgement and experience to lay the stripes out how it looked best and flowed best on the body with relation to the oil cooler opening and hood scoop.
While there are technically 3 stripes their interpretation seems to conceptually be more along the lines of 1 large stripe with two pinstripes. When they laid out the stripes they gave me two options. The one on the left was a 1/4" gap and 1/4" inch stripe. The one on the right is a 1/2" gap and stripe.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65508&d=1490261824

With my original intentions of the thicker outer stripes I choose the 1/2" gap and stripe.
I originally found this pic below and the owner said I could use it. This is probably more like a 3/4 or 1" gap and stripe. It is all how you want to think of it. In my mind this was more of a triple stripe vs a single stripe with pinstripes. We are only talking an additional 1/4-1/2" but in my eye it makes a big difference.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65507&d=1490261808

I am thrilled how it turned out. For those considering this pattern just keep in mind the outer stripe size and gap can make a big difference how it turns out. I did find another picture of what not to do but don't want to post someone else's car as a negative example. On that one the gap was quite thin and the outer stripes where probably 3-4 times the thickness of the thin gap. I thought it looked horrible but that is just my opinion. In my eye the gap and the outer stripe need to be the same thickness.

One last thing and it will be more noticeable later when you see pictures including the hood. Whitby uses a tapered stripe. They told me it tapers at 7 places along the body. (I think they said 7). The center stripe thickness is 15" thick at the nose and 16.5" back at the cockpit. I think visually that will make it look best as well.

[wareaglescott]

They sprayed the clear yesterday.
Jef at Whitby indicated they will let the car sit for close to a week and then start the sanding and polishing process. I really know nothing about the finish process and have been surprised how many steps there are. Jeff said they will start with 800 grit paper and then go by 200 grits up to 2500 and then 3 grits of polish and then it will be time for assembly. Sounds like quite a process. Can't wait to see it in person Monday! (even though that will be before the sanding)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65509&d=1490262979

[CatBuster95]

This build thread is outstanding. In fact, I've gone back and "re-done" some of my work to bring my car up to speed. Thanks for all of the effort you've shown in helping the rest of us. I really appreciate it.

[Railroad]

Wow!!

[wareaglescott]

This build thread is outstanding. In fact, I've gone back and "re-done" some of my work to bring my car up to speed. Thanks for all of the effort you've shown in helping the rest of us. I really appreciate it.

Thanks! I have learned so much from everyone on the forum I am glad some of my information can be useful to others.
How did people build these cars before the forum? I cant even imagine!

[Duke]

Congrats on color, that's awesome!

[wareaglescott]

Took another visit to Whitby today to see the paint colors. I was in the area and this was my chance to see it before it gets sent home to me. I really wanted to lay eyes on it to see the color in person before it was sent home and this was my opportunity. They still need to wet sand and buff the paint. As of today it looks great. I was completely satisfied with the colors. As expected there are some imperfections in the clear coat they will clean up with the sand and buff. I also decided to have them add a clear protectant they offer to the nose area and forward area of the rear wheel arches. Once they finish that they will be installing the body and windshield and a few other small tasks I requested. Hopefully it will be home in 2-3 more weeks.

Here are some pics (Crappy lighting inside and taken with an iPhone. Cant wait to see it in the sun!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65693&d=1490637232

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65694&d=1490637250

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65692&d=1490637210

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65688&d=1490637151

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65691&d=1490637198

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65690&d=1490637185

My wife happened to be with me on this visit. I have some interest in a 33 next or a Gen 3 Coupe. I was hoping she would get excited seeing a 33 in person. She wasn't overly impressed. That plan may have backfired! haha

[GoDadGo]

Looks Totally Fantastic!

[Boydster]

This is really lookin good, Scott. Great color choices and design.

[David Hodgkins]

Very nice color! I like it!

:)

[edwardb]

Looks really great. I really like the combination. I want to more about that protectant they're talking about. Interested to see what that is and how it's applied. I think it was pointed out before, but I'm amazed they haven't drilled any of the holes in the body. Hood latches, hood scoop, lights, etc.

[Vette1972]

Scott,

Super nice color combo! Congrats! How long did it take to wipe that grin off your face? Soon, you can enjoy.

Len

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks great Scott! Kind of the inverse of one I did a couple of years ago (still one of my favorite combinations):

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_5008.jpg


...I think it was pointed out before, but I'm amazed they haven't drilled any of the holes in the body...

Yeah, I'm still baffled by this. Maybe they're gonna' leave it for Scott to do:confused:

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Looks really great. I really like the combination. I want to more about that protectant they're talking about. Interested to see what that is and how it's applied. I think it was pointed out before, but I'm amazed they haven't drilled any of the holes in the body. Hood latches, hood scoop, lights, etc.

The holes for the lights and roll bars are there. Im not sure why they haven't done the rest. I guess that is just how they do it. They do so many cars I am not real worried about it. Would scare the heck out of me to be doing it though!!!

The clear protectant gets sprayed on. The teal hot rod had it on so I could see it. There is definitely a texture line where it ends that you can feel when you run your hands over it. You can see it coming across the nose where it stops if you are looking for it. If you want to take it off you can apply heat and it will peel off. They said it is very durable. I have a friend with a similar film on a porsche. The part that comes across the nose is not for everyone but I think I would rather look at that than a chip. I will have to ask the product name again. I find my attention to detail on this project has been very high but when it comes to the paint I really don't have a clue about the processes or technique. I am putting full trust in Whitbys reputation and a recommendation from them is good enough for me without much further research into the particular product they use.

[wareaglescott]

I appreciate everyones comments on the color combo ( and the lack of comments by those that it does not appeal to!).
I was looking for something unique and I feel I have achieved that.

Jeff I wonder if that is the same orange. Mine is a Corette color called Atomic orange. Is that what you used?

All you guys that have done this multiple times are making me nervous about the holes!! I guess it doesn't leave much room for error particularly on the hood latch holes!!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff I wonder if that is the same orange. Mine is a Corette color called Atomic orange. Is that what you used?



Atomic Orange was one of several colors that I did sample sprays of for the owner:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Steve%20J/100_4849.jpg

After many sleepless nights fretting about his decision he finally settled on Dodge "Mango Tango" :)

Jeff

[WIS89]

Scott-

Paint looks great! Super color, and the stripe turned out terrific. I think you made the right call regarding the thickness.

Sorry your wife didn't like the '33. Perhaps the coupe will catch her eye. Is she an Auburn alum as well? Maybe inverse colors for her car...

Getting close now!!

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Scott-



Maybe inverse colors for her car...



Dont be ridiculous Steve! They are all mine! hahaha
Luckily for me she just likes to ride and is happy for me to have whatever toys I want.

Thanks for the compliment on the colors.

[Bdmac58]

Looks awesome

[wareaglescott]

I had previously mentioned the clear protectant Whitby will apply. Turns out I misunderstood the product they will use. I thought it was a spray on product but it is in fact a protective film.
The product is called Star Shield.
http://starshieldsolutions.com/#products-menu

Still the same qualities I mentioned before other than it does not spray on. Jeff at Whitby did verify that was the same product on the teal hot rod I saw in person. Looked great on that car. He indicated it is pretty difficult to apply properly on the nose section due to the curves. I am confident they will do a nice job though.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65818&d=1490984587


At this point I am really getting anxious and struggling to wait for the car to come back! I really want to finish it up. I decided all I could do was get organized on the tasks I have remaining when it comes back. I figured I would break it down into areas of the car and attack it in that way. When I look at it in this format it makes me realize there really won't be much left. A lot of these tasks are simply putting things back on that I have previously mounted and will go very quickly.
I did an alignment already. I am pretty confident in that. The main reason I bought the tools to self align was because i did not have a local shop I have confidence in. Turns out Whitby has a shop nearby they use all the time and will do the alignment for $160. I am going to have them do that just to verify what I already did. I figure that is worthwhile for $160.

Here is the remaining job list. I already have 75 miles on the go cart and have given it a decent shakedown and checked most components over multiple times. I am open to any suggestions though on good practices or procedures to think about before putting the car out on the real roads. Please fire away with any suggestions.

INTERIOR
Seat install
Hook up seat heaters
Under door aluminum and carpet pieces
Door panels
Trans tunnel cover install
Stick swap

WINDSHIELD
tube in track off windshield
Mount mirrors to wind wings
Install wind wings
Install rear view mirror
Install sun visors

FRONT
headlights/blinkers
Hood badge
Radiator aluminum
Brake duct pieces
Front bumper
Splash guards
Headlight align
Engine cover install

MID
fender badges
Sidepipe heat shields

REAR
lights
License plate wiring and bracket mount
Finish trunk carpet
Rear splash guards
Rear bumper
Trunk badge
Red loctite on IRS jam nuts

GENERAL
check tire pressure
check battery and charge as needed

[Jdav]

So close Scott!
Have you started the registration process yet?

[wareaglescott]

So close Scott!
Have you started the registration process yet?

I have all the documents together. Will send them in when I have a firm date the car will be here. Once the documents are approved I have to take it to Montgomery to have it inspected. I have been in contact with the inspector numerous times throughout the build. He says not to send the stuff in until I am ready for inspection. I know the wheels of bureaucracy will cause me some more delay but I don't want to tick the guy off by the off chance my stuff makes it through unexpectedly quick.

[wareaglescott]

Did the absolute last thing I could do this morning until the car returns. I am in such build withdrawal I had to do something no matter how small the task.
I got the wind wings ready to install. I opted to use the Breeze side mirrors that mount on the wind wings. I like the look of them and felt they would offer a little better visibility. I am thinking with the high back seats my vision around a normal blindspot area will be somewhat hindered and figured these may be a little better. I mounted one on both sides.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65834&d=1491056069

Also got the sun visors ready to mount.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65835&d=1491056087

Now I wait....

[rx7922]

Scott,

I love your thread. Your PCM issues had me hooked as if I was watching a soap opera (which I don't) but man seeing everything come together is truly amazing. Reading all your post has been really insightful and I learned a lot from it. I can not wait to read it all over again when I start my build in the near future. I will reference your thread and Pauls thread like a hawk. I love what you have done and you provided me confidence that anyone with the people of this community can build a great car.

My hat's off to you!

Eden

[wareaglescott]

Scott,

I love your thread. Your PCM issues had me hooked as if I was watching a soap opera (which I don't) but man seeing everything come together is truly amazing. Reading all your post has been really insightful and I learned a lot from it. I can not wait to read it all over again when I start my build in the near future. I will reference your thread and Pauls thread like a hawk. I love what you have done and you provided me confidence that anyone with the people of this community can build a great car.

My hat's off to you!

Eden

Thanks Eden. When I joined the forum last April I knew absolutely nothing about these cars. All the information here on the forum and the help people are willing to provide make it possible for anyone to build one of these things. I can't imagine how anyone ever built one before the forum!! Good luck with your upcoming build.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Scott, You've probably read it here before but be darn careful about the length of the screws that mount the visor tabs to the windshield. One touch of the glass and you're done. I did body/paint/final assembly on one a few years ago and when the owner took it home one of the first things he did was install the visors he'd purchased---less than an hour after getting it off the trailer he had a cracked windshield caused by contacting it with a screw that was just a bit too long :mad:

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Scott, You've probably read it here before but be darn careful about the length of the screws that mount the visor tabs to the windshield. One touch of the glass and you're done. I did body/paint/final assembly on one a few years ago and when the owner took it home one of the first things he did was install the visors he'd purchased---less than an hour after getting it off the trailer he had a cracked windshield caused by contacting it with a screw that was just a bit too long :mad:

Jeff

Thanks for the heads up! Paul actually sent me some screws to use to help alleviate that issue. I may need to grind them down just a bit but will be very careful on the install.

[wareaglescott]

Got some pictures today of the progress. They have started the final sanding and buffing. Can't wait to see the finished product. It is amazing to me how they clear coat it then scuff it up so bad and then make it look even better than before. My hats off to anyone that does their own paint and bodywork. After seeing all the work that has gone into this I am glad I hired this portion out!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66000&d=1491330535

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66001&d=1491330549

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66002&d=1491330565

[Jeff Kleiner]

...It is amazing to me how they clear coat it then scuff it up...

Sounds like the comment my wife made when I painted the first Mk4 I did red---"I'll never understand you boys and what you do to these cars. It was red and shiny when it got here...then it got red and dull...then it was gray...then back to red and shiny and now you're making it all dull again. Why didn't you just leave it alone?" :)

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Sounds like the comment my wife made when I painted the first Mk4 I did red---"I'll never understand you boys and what you do to these cars. It was red and shiny when it got here...then it got red and dull...then it was gray...then back to red and shiny and now you're making it all dull again. Why didn't you just leave it alone?" :)

Jeff

That is hilarious Jeff!
I will never understand why my wife has 6 pairs of black shoes that look the same to me and a dozen or so similar necklaces. Luckily they support our car habits!

[eamici]

A buildable Frame Dolly??? Are there plans for this? I see the dolly pictured in this thread.

[wareaglescott]

Got some more pictures today. They have spent the week sanding and buffing. Should be moving on to putting the body on the go cart next week. Cant wait!!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66147&d=1491593231

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66148&d=1491593250

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66150&d=1491593280

On the lighter side I have one more picture. On my visits to Whitby I have been joking around with Brooks the painter. In Alabama college football is King and there is nothing bigger than the Auburn/ Alabama rivalry. As my user name indicates I am a die hard Auburn grad/fan. Brooks happens to be an Alabama fan. He was joking me that he was going to paint the Alabama "A" logo on the underside on the body in a place it would never be seen. I told him to go right ahead if that made him finish faster or do a better job....and he did! (All in good natured fun. I may very well have to disassemble the car when I get it home to take care of this though! haha I thought it was funny he did that.)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66146&d=1491593215

[Vette1972]

Now that's having some fun! Nice!

[42Bfast]

There is a guy that loves his car more than football! That's a mouthful for anyone in the SEC.
My hat's off to you for your sense of humor!

Being a TN Vol, Alabama is one of our major rivals too. (Hummm, come to think of it though, almost every team in the SEC is a major rival.)
Don't know if I could have held up under the strain of having that 'A' on my car. :-)

By the way, that is one beautiful car! Outstanding build and color scheme. I'm using your, and edwardb's thread (and a few other folk's sections) to help with the 1000 decisions and choices here in the planning stage. Thanks for taking the time to document and post. Great stuff!

[wareaglescott]

There is a guy that loves his car more than football! That's a mouthful for anyone in the SEC.
My hat's off to you for your sense of humor!

Being a TN Vol, Alabama is one of our major rivals too. (Hummm, come to think of it though, almost every team in the SEC is a major rival.)
Don't know if I could have held up under the strain of having that 'A' on my car. :-)

By the way, that is one beautiful car! Outstanding build and color scheme. I'm using your, and edwardb's thread (and a few other folk's sections) to help with the 1000 decisions and choices here in the planning stage. Thanks for taking the time to document and post. Great stuff!

For the record I despise the tide with everything I have in me! In this case I just consider it as the artist signing his work. I did everything on this car other than the bodywork so if that "A" is on there where it will never be seen and put there by the only other guy to really contribute to the project I can live with that. Haha
(Of course there is an entire group of hard working guys at Whitby that has contributed and I appreciate them all. Brooks just gets the signature this time!)

[Dave Howard]

For the record I despise the tide with everything I have in me! In this case I just consider it as the artist signing his work. I did everything on this car other than the bodywork so if that "A" is on there where it will never be seen and put there by the only other guy to really contribute to the project I can live with that. Haha
(Of course there is an entire group of hard working guys at Whitby that has contributed and I appreciate them all. Brooks just gets the signature this time!)

Besides, you won't be able to see the artistic signature under multiple coats of under body bed liner!!!!

[wareaglescott]

In my effort to keep myself occupied until the car comes back I noticed FFR was selling these metal signs on their website for only $20. I ordered one and used some of my paint color samples I had and painted it to match the car. Looks nice on the garage wall.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15-factory-five-steel-garage-sign/

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66158&d=1491657890

[42Bfast]

Oh that's just cool! I think I'll order two of those. One for me, and one for my good friend who is responsible for my gear head resurgence, Cobra infection, and contributor to my general delinquency.
He is the proud builder and owner of one of the very early FF roadsters. Built it almost 20 years ago doing the donor car route. The car is just a beast and has held up well logging quite a few miles.
He is already assisting with planning my build and will be heavily involved throughout. He's a brilliant old school gear head and is looking forward to the new build almost as much as I am.
Good friends like him are rare in one's life. Good friends like him, with skills, are a blessing!
If he's agreeable, and I can figure out how to post pics, I'll start a new thread with some shots of his roadster.

Thanks for posting the sign!

[edwardb]

Nice! Didn't know they had those. I just ordered one too. Will look good next to my "Built Not Bought" sign. Maybe in Candy Red?

Clearly you have too much time on your hands waiting for your body to come back from paint. :o

[Jazzman]

In my effort to keep myself occupied until the car comes back I noticed FFR was selling these metal signs on their website for only $20. I ordered one and used some of my paint color samples I had and painted it to match the car. Looks nice on the garage wall.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15-factory-five-steel-garage-sign/

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66158&d=1491657890

You should send one of these to your painter friend Brooks in your colors with an Auburn logo right on the front where he can enjoy it!! ;)

[wareaglescott]

Nice! Didn't know they had those. I just ordered one too. Will look good next to my "Built Not Bought" sign. Maybe in Candy Red?

Clearly you have too much time on your hands waiting for your body to come back from paint. :o

Ha clearly! My build thread is slowly morphing into a Cobra lifestyle blog these past few months as I have been waiting and finding side projects to keep me occupied! Hoping to get back to the actual build portion of this thread really soon with some actual progress towards completion!! I will have to update my index to include post 410-490 - general bullcrap to kill time waiting for the body to be finished. haha

[Jeff Kleiner]

I like it and just asked Ron to grab me one next time he's at FFR. Told him I'll pick it up when I come for the open house but until then just leave it out in the rain to rust---that'll fit my "not a waxer" theme better than matching paint :D

Jeff

[42Bfast]

Ha clearly! My build thread is slowly morphing into a Cobra lifestyle blog these past few months as I have been waiting and finding side projects to keep me occupied! Hoping to get back to the actual build portion of this thread really soon with some actual progress towards completion!! I will have to update my index to include post 410-490 - general bullcrap to kill time waiting for the body to be finished. haha

Nurtured and supported largely by some fine folks who's builds have either completed, or have yet to start,...I suspect. :-)

[wareaglescott]

Got some more pictures today.

Pretty impressed with the finish on this mirror... I mean the rear quarter!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66241&d=1491864386

Here are a couple more:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66245&d=1491864456

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66246&d=1491864471

This one they had just positioned the body on the chassis to start final install. Shouldn't be long now.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66243&d=1491864413

[M3ichael]

WOW! Slowly building inspiration to build my own. Your car looks awesome! Thanks again for all the fantastic photo's and information.

[awd-turbo]

I really like that color!!!

[GoDadGo]

Wow!

[wareaglescott]

Thanks guys!
SO what is the process when you realize the paint looks so good that you are now scared to drive it?
Living in a college town has some dangers. If one of those texting/selfie taking/ snap chatting sorority girls hits me while playing with her phone Im gonna lose it! LOL