View Full Version : Toms 33
Called FFR today and kit goes in truck tomorrow. Engine will be here tomorrow, and have drivetrain parts.
I just hope that the last kit to go in truck is ready ?
wallace18
06-07-2016, 05:30 PM
Congrats! have a ball building it.
Eye Candy!!!!!!!! Love the look of this setup. What tranny and clutch are you planning on using?
Got the driveline parts from MDL. T56 magnum, with superior clutch kevlar/kevlar disk, tilton 6000 hyd. release.
Quicktime bell and a lightened billet flywheel.
Truck driver called ,should get to me on the 20th. yes, yes !!
Midwest 33 Build
06-12-2016, 07:00 PM
Congrats, have fun with the build.
55419 Working on inventory.
So i can look at pics to put parts back!55441554425544355444
Motor_Freak
06-30-2016, 12:04 AM
Congratulation! Post more pictures.
Just enough parts not on hand to put build on hold.
Got gears changed from 3.55 to 3.73, dam tape glue is hard to get off, and built engine lift mounts.5561855619556205562155622
Got all panel holes drilled562975629856299 and deburred. Will take them and other parts to powdercoater.
Midwest 33 Build
07-17-2016, 09:45 PM
Looks Great !
56453 Got some parts, but not the ones i need now. Owell always something else to work on.
Did the crate engine come with the fly wheel? I Also see you got the boyd tank, are you going with the in tank pump? Looks good so far I will be keeping a close eye on your build as our power trains are very similar.
BigB, yes engine cam with the stock flywheel, but i went with lightened billet flywheel - superior clutch, kevlar both sides - tilton 6000 clutch release - quick time bell and t56 trans from MDL.
Checking bell to trans had to cut some off top two bolts. ARP bolts.
Pilot bearing, one comes with engine, one with clutch. the ford one is thicker and looks better, but checking to make sure there is room.56501
The bigger bearing worked good, came with engine but without checking you never know. Tilton throw- out bearing used up some time to set right, better to check more than once. Will go fast next time. Had to use dermal56544565455654656547 to make round hole out of flat sided slot.
5685856859568605686156862
Worked on other end
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12353-33-Hotrod-Coyote-Air-Conditioning
For any one with AC in 33.
FFR did not give info.
Also link for getting belt on http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=865&viewfile=Air%20Conditioning%20%28AC%29%20Compresso r%20Belt%20-%203.7L%20and%205.0L.pdfand off.
Needed clutch stop for the tillton oil throwout bearing.5797757978579795798057981
erlihemi
08-29-2016, 08:03 PM
Nice job on the clutch stop. Are you going fat on the master cylinder to get shorter pedal travel or just limiting travel to avoid blowing out the bearing?
To avoid blowing out tillion 6000 bearing. It is all setup, per directions put trany in gear and push pedal in till tran turns then 1/4 inch more. Put stop at that, i think that will be about as in pics.
The other thing i had to run e-brake cables under the axle, not over as in plans to work.
Going with 3/4 mc to have it easier to push.
My engine lift bracket on PS will not clear, will try inside bolt on back.
No room on back. Moved lift bracket forward one exhaust port, worked good with comalong from lift bar to back of trans. Will post pics later.
OK motor and trams in to work out problems.
Oil pan is to low, going to work on AC pump to get all the motor up and see if that will work. If close i will put some stanless on pan for armer.5844658447584485844958450
Had to move engine and trans -UP 1 inch + , Forward 1/2 inch, and over to DS 1/2 inch. Now i have 1/4 inch room engine to firewall, oil pan is even with frame and AC pump drive belt is clear of upper A-frame mount.59180591815918259183591835918459185591865918 7
Two more5918859189 Dam it was easier to weld when eyes were younger!
erlihemi
09-30-2016, 06:23 PM
Looking great Tom!
Put mounts in and all good. But will have to work on pan a little for steering motor.59198591995920059201592025920359204
Inside of oil pan592965929759298
jayguy
10-06-2016, 12:41 PM
What about clocking the steering motor down a little? Looks like you wouldn't have to change it much.
Did not want to lower steering motor.
OK i had some problems with oil pan. It is the ford road racing pan and is made with hard metal. Did not like first job so cut it all out and did over, got to hot and warped the pan ! Dam i know better. Had to cut half of the flange from pan and spot weld to flat work bench , then heat and needle pen and weld small part around and do over till weled. Then check with die and fix leaks. O'well needed the practice any way? All good and on motor.597125971359714
erlihemi
10-15-2016, 11:46 AM
If it isn't a challenge then it's no fun, right?
Has anyone had problems with the driveline bolts to 2016 IRS, i have some play?
Had drive-line cut & balanced and is in.60282
Did not find pulley for new alternator so i welded up clutched pulley.6028360284
Put in some time and got all steering joints close to 30 degrees.602856028660287
Did not like FFR bearing holder so made one. 60286
And did not like the the end of steering rack shaft, so cut off the end and ground flat place for set screw.6028860289
All steering shaft parts have drilled part holes for set screws.60289
Did not want to buy wheels and tires till i have body and fenders on. With all on and set i can measure for front and back spacing and tire size. So i put this together.614986149961500
Body on and bolted. Now on to the hood scoop!628806288162882
wallace18
01-18-2017, 07:00 AM
Coming along very nice.
Felt like backing up, but needed to take apart to move forward. Have to undo a lot of parts to get engine out of the way. Did some fiberglass work, mixed up to much and more hardener63030630316303263033 than needed , but it is on the cold side.
First time with foam, yes would have been better to mask first. Did mask after first overflow. 635876358863589635906359163592
blitzkreig baja
02-03-2017, 04:03 AM
Looks like a cool car in the works. Keep those pictures coming.
The hood was out to far at back, so cut and glassed. Working on form for scoop, will probably glass ofer this.6369363694636956369663697636986369963700
11markgibson
02-14-2017, 02:48 PM
Those blue valve covers look good.
Thinking about putting a DOM tube from middle of roll bar over and down to middle of dash. Will put to firewall frame with bolt together at dash .
How much bolt at dash?
What do you think about this?
Doors work and latch, top of DS door built up. Hood and side panels fit. Doors, hood and side panels good ruff gaped. Working on top!6496864969
DarthTedious
03-12-2017, 10:09 PM
Tom, when aligning the grill, hood, and side panels, did you use the nose cone or hood to set the initial rake of the grill? I am at that stage and trying to figure out how much I should trim vs adjust the grill. Just looking for your advice/thoughts.
I put the grill group ( with a Mike Everson fan shroud ) together and put it on car. There is not much room for adjustment, then fit sides and hood to that. The back bottom of side panel is set so off that. Then Hood sides need to be cut (on mine i cut both sides the same then had to build up the left side). Work on all of them a little at a time( it is easier to cut more times than put back on). I have not done the cone yet, but will cut it in two to fit. Hope this helps!
I have AC so the condenser moves the hole group closer to shocks.
Working on getting the body and top ready for permanent attachment. 6514265143651446514565146
Will put two pound foam in top, little at a time! Hope holes are big enough to let any extra foam out.
I am going to bolt, glue and then fiberglass the top on. I do things a little different some times, so if anyone has comments let them come.
I plan to attach my coupe top permanent also but haven't a clue how I'm going to do that yet. Hard to see in the photo but what adhesive are you using to "glue" the top on? Also, why the foam and where exactly are you putting it?
Hi Naz
The local paint and body supply store said use MAXIM - multi panel by evercoat. It has 40 to 50 min working time, so i will get my son to help move and bolt top on with glue on. I am using all evercoat products up to main paint.
The foam 2 lb, 2 part. I am putting it in the space between the two sides of top for insulation both heat and noise. Need to be very careful because it gets 30 times bigger. i have very little experience with this so only little at a time.
Thanks 1932, I'll be interested in how this works for you. I'm a long ways from doing mine.
RoadRacer
03-16-2017, 06:50 PM
Thanks, watching the foam use and attaching the roof with interest!
I do not know how people work on these cars with the tin work on, i do not bend very good!
I want to get all the panels and parts that bolt to body on so i can work on hood, trunk, doors fit. After the top will go back to side panels, will post pics of my idea on that with no bolts showing.
Did the foam in top65159651606516165162
Came out pretty good.
myjones
03-17-2017, 06:55 AM
Tom, when aligning the grill, hood, and side panels, did you use the nose cone or hood to set the initial rake of the grill? I am at that stage and trying to figure out how much I should trim vs adjust the grill. Just looking for your advice/thoughts.
I got the dimension from Jim S. at FF because I'm waiting on the steel chin for my glass body car. The (opening) down the center line of the hood should be 43"
I leveled the cowl then fit the hood first and do the hood sides last.
HTH
DB 7L Hemi33
OK ! What are you doing with the window openings, as in beveling- rounding or how to make look good from inside??
Well i went and cut out all the extra body in the windows, front and back so i use all the window glass!
Other cut i want to do is work out the side so that the window seal goes up to the body.6521865219652206522165222
erlihemi
03-19-2017, 09:17 AM
With all that glass you'll need to add a sun visor!! Looks great Tom.
This is the way i marked around windows6527765278
The fit and look i want652796528065281
The door window lip is to wide for the window seal that came with kit!6528265283
Any ideas on side window seal? I will look for seal that fits wider lip, or as last may need glue
Mcmaster-Carr
weather stripping
bulb seal
looks like something should work and for trunk to!
Or not!
The top is on and will not be off anymore!653296533065331
Used both tubs of panel adhesive6533265333
And bolts
Sanded panel adhesive with 40 grit, then put three layers of fiberglass on that. 65382653836538465385653866538765388
Vman7
03-25-2017, 06:15 PM
Wow! you sure are doing a lot of body work. Look fwd to seeing how it all works out :)
David
656216562265623
Work in progress
Did this to side panels - on back at mid panel it stuck out and at front mid panel it needed to come out.
6566965670656716567265673
Hood is good, work on hinges and pins. The nose cone was hard to fit, cut & grind, will do some glass work and bolt on. Had to put finder up and see how it looked-good!657646576565766657676576865769
Mbuosaircd
04-02-2017, 12:17 PM
What length did you cut your drive shaft to? About to do the same to my build.
I moved the engine in my build so drive shaft would not be the same.
Drive shaft- midcap to midcap 25 3/8
Work on cone659506595165952
I hope everyone has as much fun with the hood!6633666337663386633966340663416634266343
Used 1/4 inch stainless bolts for the pins, and moved strut down one inch.
Working on fenders and boards6634466345
Fenders from Dan and they fit over the stile line at bottom so are same as fram. but need to make a half round to go in side of bottom stile line for back up.
Had to add 1 1/4 to ps board to get front to come out right.6644266443
Will do bottom next.
11340dart
04-23-2017, 06:14 PM
I put the grill group ( with a Mike Everson fan shroud ) together and put it on car. There is not much room for adjustment, then fit sides and hood to that. The back bottom of side panel is set so off that. Then Hood sides need to be cut (on mine i cut both sides the same then had to build up the left side). Work on all of them a little at a time( it is easier to cut more times than put back on). I have not done the cone yet, but will cut it in two to fit. Hope this helps!
I have AC so the condenser moves the hole group closer to shocks.
Im losing sleep because I think the FF33 is best looking car but non permanent roof worries me.
Do i buy a FF33 or a traditional 33/34 roller.
I want it to look right. I know I can build car, my body guy says permanent roof mounting is no trouble..Please keep pics and info
coming.
What are you gonna do about waterfall.and upholstery. Im thinking maybe modifying waterfall to match inside door look and having upholstery shop do iy up and also upholster a headliner too..Are you gonna run wipers.
I think I could use late jeep wiper set up..Lol wipers can b done even with ac and heat.. its top that worries me.
So keep info coming ,,thanks .
The running board was to soft for my liking so i put6691166912 a frame under it, now i can jump on it!
erlihemi
04-26-2017, 09:33 PM
Nice! Looks ready for dirt track now. I'm pondering similar approach. Do the tubes slide out so you can pull the fenders off if desired? I'm thinking about extending it forward to catch the rear of the front fender also.
I am full fender all the time so they are welded on, the front and back go in to the cross bar. I am going to make a fender brace that will be in front of engine, but have to put engine back in and find room.
DaveS53
04-29-2017, 02:28 PM
Im losing sleep because I think the FF33 is best looking car but non permanent roof worries me.
Do i buy a FF33 or a traditional 33/34 roller.
I want it to look right. I know I can build car, my body guy says permanent roof mounting is no trouble..Please keep pics and info
coming.
What are you gonna do about waterfall.and upholstery. Im thinking maybe modifying waterfall to match inside door look and having upholstery shop do iy up and also upholster a headliner too..Are you gonna run wipers.
I think I could use late jeep wiper set up..Lol wipers can b done even with ac and heat.. its top that worries me.
So keep info coming ,,thanks .
Engine compartment height is a problem if a modern EFI engine is used in the FFR '33 - there's no room for a proper intake air snorkel. I also see major headaches with maintenance, without a removable dash. A conventional car will have more interior room and more height in the engine compartment. On the down side, it's hard to know if any of the current body builders are competent. Most fiberglass body companies have been sold to new owners and you've got no idea if the product is good. Good rolling chassis is not a problem since Heidts, TCI and Kugel are still in business. The roller will cost a lot more, but you get what you pay for. I finished a 3-year, 3000 hour build last year. Had many problems due to poorly built body, no decent grille and poor suspension from Oze Rod Shop.
Mick Scarborough
05-01-2017, 06:27 PM
Im losing sleep because I think the FF33 is best looking car but non permanent roof worries me.
Do i buy a FF33 or a traditional 33/34 roller.
I want it to look right. I know I can build car, my body guy says permanent roof mounting is no trouble..Please keep pics and info
coming.
What are you gonna do about waterfall.and upholstery. Im thinking maybe modifying waterfall to match inside door look and having upholstery shop do iy up and also upholster a headliner too..Are you gonna run wipers.
I think I could use late jeep wiper set up..Lol wipers can b done even with ac and heat.. its top that worries me.
So keep info coming ,,thanks .
What about a non-permanent roof worries you? Its been done for many years with excellent results. The FFR removable hard top is no different than a targa top, t-tops, a bronco or a Toyota Landcruiser. Frankly the FFR hot rod is 2 cars in one. For us Floridians I can cruise the beach in a breezer and later protect myself from the damp night air with a sweet hard top.
Had680946809568096 a problem with hood changing on right side, found that i had a air pocket!
And been working a roll cage for my personal safety680976809868099!
myjones
05-22-2017, 06:49 AM
I see you spread the base out like I did,
starting further apart like that does help the headroom and lands on a stronger spot on the frame than the FF socket did.
I should have cut out the inner layer of the hardtop like one of the other FF builds have to get that extra bit of headroom
for my tall wife. Keep posting the cage pics I love to see how people deal with the tight quarters. On the front down legs
cutting the front off the dash as a section is the best I've seen for that challenge.
DB
erlihemi
05-22-2017, 10:50 AM
Looking great '32!! I like the cage ideas that are hitting the forum occasionally. If I get to the MKV mod III stage I may redo that entire people cabin. It occurred to me the other day at about 3rd gear I wasn't happy with no forward hoop or door bars. While the car is stable it doesn't mean the other drivers are. It also became obvious that I don't need to bother with a 5 window when running with Kirkey high backs or a large headed passenger! I did get my seat position correct to glance out the Mail slot for blind spot checking though. The other thing I accidentally did was stagger my seat height so the shoulders don't hit when I move mine back and forth. I don't know how 17" wide Kirkeys could go in this cabin?
Still thinking a 37 ford nose with a fast back for better cage design...
Here's one you guys might enjoy: My wife asked me if the rollbar gets hot?? Ummm no?? " Why else would you insulate it like that??"
RoadRacer
05-22-2017, 11:29 AM
Here's one you guys might enjoy: My wife asked me if the rollbar gets hot?? Ummm no?? " Why else would you insulate it like that??"
Haha, classic!
myjones
05-22-2017, 12:34 PM
Looking great '32!! I like the cage ideas that are hitting the forum occasionally. Still thinking a 37 ford nose with a fast back for better cage design...
Here's one you guys might enjoy: My wife asked me if the rollbar gets hot?? Ummm no?? " Why else would you insulate it like that??"
The fastback design would help make room for proper downbars as well as looking sweet.
Using Mazda trunk hinges like mine keeps the trunk lid from moving forward when it's opened and wouldn't run into a fastback top design.
My wife had a classic reply as well when she climbed in and found her head too close to the beta roll bar I made. I said well I guess I either
need to find a shorter girlfriend or raise the rear hoop. She said " It would be a LOT cheaper to raise the roll bar" :eek:
DB
Been working on roll cage---it has turned into art!684376843868439
myjones
06-02-2017, 05:51 AM
Couple of taco gussets under that horiz bar would help a bit too.
Love the pictures, keep em coming.
The front hoop is a great place for a segmented racing mirror or a long convex one.
Dale
68442 For folks contemplating a full cage in one of these little cars, here's a photo of one design. This was my first iteration of a full cage in a 33 HR. It fit under the roof, the rear braces were greater than 30-degrees, and it did not trap the body. Made from 1.625 x .090 4130 it was strong and light. The original trunk hinges worked with the 18-gallon fuel cell but the body was positioned 1" higher at the rear to get additional head room under the main hoop. However, that design was replaced when NHRA would not certify it because they won't accept the 1.5" FFR chassis tubing as a suitable place to weld a roll cage to. I deemed it too difficult to continue modifying the FFR chassis and elected to design my own. The design pictured would have been a very sturdy cage for a street rod.
erlihemi
06-02-2017, 08:53 AM
Awesome examples! I had some spastic thoughts of creating a slightly wider chassis for the Hot Rod aka gen III so we could do more with seats, cages, and tranny tunnels. This forces the running boards (if used) to be narrower and you can crawl out easier. Obviously this forces a new body, but what the heck, time for a later 30's rod anyway. Keep the pictures and ideas flowing. Maybe we should do a cage thread??
myjones
06-02-2017, 03:00 PM
Awesome examples! I had some spastic thoughts of creating a slightly wider chassis for the Hot Rod aka gen III so we could do more with seats, cages, and tranny tunnels. This forces the running boards (if used) to be narrower and you can crawl out easier. Obviously this forces a new body, but what the heck, time for a later 30's rod anyway. Keep the pictures and ideas flowing. Maybe we should do a cage thread??
Mark
I had the same thought about a wide body 33 with a fastback top and taller rear fenders. More room for the cage, driveline, passengers, taller tires, trunk etc.
The new Daytona chassis would be a good example of some of the frame changes needed to make a wide 33 stiff and safe. FF won't do a full hardtop 33 because
of market share for the roadster so they won't do a full cage because of that issue.
Dale
RoadRacer
06-02-2017, 03:31 PM
68442 For folks contemplating a full cage in one of these little cars, here's a photo of one design. This was my first iteration of a full cage in a 33 HR. It fit under the roof, the rear braces were greater than 30-degrees, and it did not trap the body. Made from 1.625 x .090 4130 it was strong and light.
Did you sell that version NAZ? I'm guessing you'd have us all fighting over a ready made cage like that..
Sorry RoadRacer, I salvaged as much of the chrome moly tubing as I could. And what's left of the FFR original chassis is sitting in my metal scrap pile waiting to be hauled off to the scrap metal yard.
Good luck to anyone that goes down this path. I wanted my heater and ac, to be able to get body of and on, and not be hitting head on on tubing. Went with 1&5/8 120 dom smallest legal ( i think ) and have bender for it. Not much room in cab to put tubing. I don't tig weld so the light tube was not used.
1932, you're on the money about the limited room inside these little cars for a roll cage. Before you get too far down that path here's a tip on how to solve the body entrapment issue and still have as wide of a door opening as possible. Run the front hoop through the dash and down to the chassis. Now at first that may seem like it will trap the body but after you cut the holes in the dash for the down tubes; carefully cut out the dash through the center of these holes and make a nice clean parting line. I used a pneumatic body saw and it came out perfect. Now use ¼-turn fasteners to reattach the cut-out portion of the dash and you will do two things. First, the dash will not trap the roll cage as the body will easily slide off the chassis and away from the roll cage. Second, when you remove the face of the dash you'll have lots of room to work under there and can even easily install the A/C after the body is on. You can search the album galley for pictures of how I did this. I haven't posted any for awhile so it's probably on the second or third page by now and the title is 33 Hot Rod Roll Cage. Here's a couple views of the roll cage with the body on and the dash assembled. 6849568496
Two more in front684976849868499
Trying to use all of FFR and have open doors to get in and out. This is a driver, i plan to put a lot of miles on the road!
Time to Weld this up and get to putting together.6864868649686506865168652
myjones
06-06-2017, 06:09 AM
I don't recall which AC unit you ended up with but either way the AC and heater lines get pretty crowded coming through the firewall and turning
to connect to the AC unit. My rollcage lands on the same place as yours on the firewall so I ran my lines different than the FF manual says to.
I split them up and brought the heater hoses in high and right behind the intake manifold. I brought the AC hoses in on the lower firewall where
it kicks back to hit the floorpan. I used a double bulkhead fitting there and brought them up with a pair of 90* fittings to the AC unit. I made an
inner firewall panel for the PS footbox to protect the hoses and allow more insulation on the back of the firewall for heat control. Much easier that way.
Dale
erlihemi
06-06-2017, 11:27 AM
I like it!! I'm pondering whether I would dare do this with a steel body though.
Why not? The only body mod is the holes in dash. Or as naz did removable dash corners, the rest is bend and fit ends.
All welded up and primed, paint friday. 687996880068801
It's a lot of work but you now have a much safer car for the effort. That faux roll bar that came with the car is false security but your design should offer significant protection in a rollover. Good job.
Thanks NAZ. I and the person with me need to walk away from any problems!
myjones
06-11-2017, 06:03 AM
OK it is black68869
Looking good.
Are those SQ tubes in back being used for better trunk hinges ?
Dale
erlihemi
06-11-2017, 09:12 AM
Looks robust! Nice job Tom.
Thanks all !!!
Now back to building, until i have the next idea!! Front fender bracing.
Railroad
06-11-2017, 11:34 AM
I just stumbled up on your thread. I bought the same engine for my roadster. ,,, not nearly as far along on the build as you, but was excited to see the engine. I might have to monitor to catch any tips on the engine. I used the shallow Moroso pan and pickup for my build. The pan on the engine sure is a nice piece of work. I too used a different flywheel. I did not know one came with the engine, nod iron. It is a nine bolt or some configuration other than the billet steel I bought. I did run into something a little scary. The flywheel bolts sent with the new flywheel, M-6379-B are not long enough. The bolts that came on the engine are TTY and not recommended for re use. The shipped bolts only engage .2 inch of threads. I bought another set, like those that came on the engine, .40 inch engagement. The engine also came with a short nipple to use when the oil cooler is removed, which is necessary with the roadster. Nice build!
progmgr1
06-12-2017, 06:23 PM
Thanks all !!!
Now back to building, until i have the next idea!! Front fender bracing.
Cardifkid made some really stout but simple front fender braces for his '33. There are pictures in his build thread on the other forum: "cardifkids-33-build-706-hot-rod" (not sure if it's ok to actually post a thread address on this forum). HTH Keith
Thanks
Yes he has a very nice car, and braces. I will have fenders on all the time so i may weld braces in at a different way!
erlihemi
06-14-2017, 10:42 AM
Tom,
Did you fab a bar across in front of the tank for connecting the back of the seat like most sanctioning bodies require?? I thought about modifying the Belt anchors but its too busy and the most logical place seems to be across the original vertical tubes for your build. Feels like the body should have had a brace where the waterfall meets it to anchor a race seat in the back.
It could even stabilize that wobbly roof a little. For guys with the roadster those doors must not stay aligned. The roof is actually stabilizing the body sides.
I need to look at the seat back bolting, I have never raced but would like to run on road course, be better to put in now. Am fabing a driveline safety part now.
Some times my farm background does not line up with race world. As we say in shop framerize it, and what part of custom did you not understand!
With top on permanent it makes body more stable, and with the roll cage the frame should not flex much.
Small family farm- with old and made equipment.
Looks that there are to many things to change , or build to be race ok. Going for personal safety and hope to be good to run track days.
I am open to all ideas and info. Thanks
erlihemi
06-14-2017, 01:48 PM
As we say in shop framerize it, and what part of custom did you not understand!
Looks that there are to many things to change , or build to be race ok. Going for personal safety and hope to be good to run track days.
Yep, got it on the opposite coast!! Not sure the 33 is really aligned for any serious racing, but, if the welds are still warm and there is some rod left you have the skills to fab it up.
At one point I considered boxing the tank area from the people cabin also. That whole area around the waterfall just seems like it needs a different approach from FFR.
Since the discussion has touched on racing I'll add what I found dealing with SCCA Solo and NHRA regulations. Before I started designing my roll cage I contacted the SCCA Rally / Solo manager as I had questions after reading their rule book. He handed me off to the National Solo Competition Manager who stated that convertibles need a SCCA compliant roll bar but normally hardtop cars aren't required to have a roll bar as the Feds require crash testing and SCCA assumes that's good enough for Solo events that never really exceed the speeds normally encountered on the highway. However, he also said that there is no specific mention of that exclusion for kit cars so he "recommends" a roll bar but cautioned that the FFR standard roll bar doesn't have any bracing so it would not comply with the SCCA regs regarding roll bars. So you may get away without any roll bar or cage for SCCA Solo events unless you get a local club that has a tech inspector that want's to push back on kit cars. Now for NHRA, roll bar and roll cage requirements take a much different tack and depend on body style and ET / speed. Let's look at how these rules apply to the 33 Hot Rod coupe (the roadster will be different). A roll bar meeting the requirements in Section 20 4:10 & 10:6 is required for cars running 11.49 to 11.00 seconds (¼-mile). A roll cage compliant with Section 20 4:4, 4:11, & 10:6 is required in cars running 10.99 or quicker or 135 MPH or faster. Roll bars are not certify but a roll cage is required to be certified by a NHRA chassis inspector every three-years. Now the part you won't like -- there is no way that you will meet the NHRA requirements for a roll bar or roll cage if it's welded to the FFR chassis as the tubing used in your chassis does not comply with NHRA requirements. You might get away with it on a roll bar if the local track tech inspector is not real picky but there is no way that a chassis inspector will affix a certification sticker on your roll cage if it's welded to the 1.5" square tubing used on your FFR chassis. Of course there are other safety compliance items to deal with beside roll bars and roll cages. The takeaway here is that if you plan to drag race your hot rod at a NHRA track it will require a great deal of modification to the basic FFR hot rod chassis.
I have the new exhaust and cannot get the over axle part to fit, and DS o2 sensor het steering.The good news is no fiberglass in muffler6906269063690646906569066.
Setup and looks like need to ad 4&1/2 inches to med or front of axle pipe. Good news i have the front pipes that had the ends on backward to use for pipe.
Fixed both o2 sensor and exhaust, still need to put on hangers.6910169102691036910469105691066910769108
Added 4 inches to DS and 4&1/2 to PS on pipes.
I had to cut and weld PS pipe because i put the extinction in the back pipe and the clamp hit the frame. So if you do this put both extinctions in pipes out of muffler. 6926869269
Clutch and brakes bled. Exhaust is in and done, was a lot more work than expected. And built driveline protection.694496945069451694526945369454694556945 669457
The tuff shed will be hot rod new home!
Heat shield over mufflers. MAF housing intake, the elbow needs work to match throttle body.6956769568695696957069571
FFR sent me the wrong brackets for evaporator but have front hose fit. Made new bracket for drier. Moved top hose pipe on radiator so hose will go around intake. Worked on oil filter-cooler-heater remote. On track shipping from summit said they put parts on porch.
, but no parts, The driver was to come show me the place they put parts, never showed up!! Called service more times and they said could not get driver to answer!! and have had bad people on credit card, O fun!7065270653706547065570656
Worked on intake and it is comeing along70806708077080870809708107081170812
This was a cast aluminum piece for turbo, only short 5" bend i could find. But it works better than i thought.
Intake on, just need to make bracket for mass air housing.7088370884708857088670887
Tom, Forgive my ignorance but why put the foam in the hard top? Love your build and will continue to follow.
BigB, i foamed the top to help with insulation for heat and noise. I was concerned about the top having a drumming or noise maker.
Got the oil filter- heater-cooler done and oil hoses on. Just need to put tees in heater lines water will split between heater-when on- and oil, all water to oil cooler- heater otherwise.709927099370994709957099670997
I have the IRS as well, How did you route your EBrake lines? I have to pull mine to the limit just to get them in, wondering if there is a better way?
Yes the cables are very tight as manual, i went under don't know if better but the way i went.
Put some clear tubing over at places i tied to parts.
Cable end would not fit in to holder with wilwood brakes,filed this out with round file.
BigB - pics for you7125771258712597126071261
Under looks a hell of a lot better than what the instructions say. Thnak you for the pics and Ideas.
Built a brace for the mass air flow housing, not welded on motor so it was some time to get ears on in the right place!71534715357153671537715387153971540
PCV lines on, in the same place ford uses and same lines. 715417154271543
Vacuum line to fuel regulator on.
Made a heat shield for starter7189371894718957189671897
I like to get metal out of scrap pile and turn it into a part, but would be much faster to order part and bolt on.
Found some brass parts(sharkbite plumbing ends) to make water in and out for the oil heater-cooler and heater, engine temp water to oil and flow is always moving to cool heads.Don't need bypass heater valve.718987189971900
Got all the AC hoses crimped and most on.7209172092
Put in floor and trans tunnel, and yes now i have to fab top of tunnel!7209372094720957209672097 If you look at the light spots, had to put small washer on both sides of pall on parking brake.
Put two layers of both insulation on fire wall. Built panels to go over insulation where feet will be, and heater& ac hoses go.72405
Made the trans cover out of irrigation pipe, 8" for cover, and 3" for water bottles.72406724077240872409The way i marke pipe72410
Will split insulation and carpet or what i use at rivet line on trans cover so it can be removed to take out trans with engine.
I am going to put the cruise control and window switches behind shifter , maybe more, will see.
TxMike64
08-16-2017, 10:45 AM
72405
I like your modified jack stands! Great idea!
Worked on place for all but heater-ac (and hope to have it working with on off switch) in same place.7266372664
Put the parking brake on different from book, it was to far out in PS and to far forward. Put back bracket under the floor, front on top . Had to make the lower arms one inch longer and back. I think with wilwood parking brake it will be good. If need more leverage i can move hole up.726657266672667
H R Lucky
08-22-2017, 08:31 PM
I am going to put the cruise control and window switches behind shifter , maybe more, will see.
I was told by Ford engineer that cruise control can't be installed on a Coyote crate engine.
Nevin
I am going to use a 250-1882 universal cruise with dash pad.
From The Cruise Control Store.com.
TDSapp
08-23-2017, 10:08 AM
I am going to use a 250-1882 universal cruise with dash pad.
From The Cruise Control Store.com.
Dang it Tom... You just added another $290.00 to my HR budget.
Tim
Pics of swaybar that a business is building for 33, not done yet but very close. Will have mine next week!728137281472815
Got pics of the swaybar finished. Will get mine next week!728317283272833728347283572836
Worked on trans cover and switch panel, need to run some wiring then rivet down. 7298472985729867298772988
myjones
08-30-2017, 05:41 AM
Got pics of the swaybar finished. Will get mine next week!72836
That is a great design where it bolts to the chassis, :p
Nice and simple, using bolt locations that are already there.
Wish I would have found those A-arm clamps before I had mine made.
As was asked on the other forum, i would like to mount my stock bumper on this as well. When i get sway bar i will mock up and see about that.
erlihemi
08-30-2017, 12:09 PM
Trans tunnel is looking great!! I think you'll want that E-Brake up there someplace in reach also.
Yes i did some work on e-brake to move handle back and over to trans cover. post 140
Working on wiring and think i have most in mind the way i want it, now to get it sorted, ford-FFR- and some of mine.
Got my sway bar today.7343173432
This was the first of second gen sway bar, had three little things to fix so it fit my car. Needed to bevel the inside of main mounts so it would fit over frame. And had to make 1/2 inch spacers for arms out of plate steel.
Then on the clamps needed to have bigger and longer bolts. went with 1/4 20 grade 8 by 1 1/2.73476734777347873479734807348173482
All good now and on!
erlihemi
09-10-2017, 07:16 PM
That sway bar is sweet! nice work Tom.
myjones
09-11-2017, 01:56 PM
This was the first of second gen sway bar, had three little things to fix so it fit my car. Needed to bevel the inside of main mounts so it would fit over frame. And had to make 1/2 inch spacers for arms out of plate steel.
Then on the clamps needed to have bigger and longer bolts. went with 1/4 20 grade 8 by 1 1/2.73476734777347873479734807348173482 All good now and on!
Tom
Sorry about the bevel needed on the frame tabs, I did that on mine and forgot to convey that to Dan when I shared the tab pattern.
On mine I had the A-arm clamps made so I could incorporate some Urethane where the bolt passes through that clamp to reduce
NVH a bit more. Mine are not as elegant as Dan's but it's a full fender car so they mostly hide. I also connected mine to the lower arm
instead so the dogbones are a bit longer and easier to configure for clearance. BUT, as Dan pointed out his doesn't send load through
both ball joints like mine does. As usual Dan was a step or 2 ahead of me in the design of this product.
Dale
Dan has top clamps with bigger bolts now. It is a nice unit and i thank you and dan. In my previous life as a small family framer i fixed all of our OLD equipment so fixing things is part of how i think.
Dale. How is the sway bar working out? How have you set the ride height to work with bar?
Thanks
Tom
myjones
10-04-2017, 12:22 PM
Tom
I have cycled the full range of travel with the coil overs removed so I could watch for any rubbing or binding and everything worked fine.
I have altered my front suspension for a bit higher ride for ground clearance and to allow running taller tires. Along with that I made new
lower A arms and changed the mounting for all the ball joints. The point was to use early Mustang ball joints that just bolt in and to get
rid of the upper ball joint that wasn't designed for the primary load to be applied in the direction the FF set-up applies it. The Frame tabs
and bar width are the same but most everything else on mine is custom and doesn't really cross over to other 33's
I did make a nifty storage box behind the seats recently and installed seat brackets to both slide and tilt for access to the new box.
Family issues and the purchase of 7 acres to build our new house and hot rod shop have kept me too busy to work on the 33 much
lately but I am going to SEMA in a few weeks to see the new 33 truck.
Dale
I have been working on fifteen acres to plant almonds and taking care of wife, so car has been waiting.
No fuel for cat so worked on wiring, it would be much better if 33 had its own harness.7586775868
Will be testing wiring so put two gallons of oil into the line to filter to oil engine before turning over. Ford 5/50 full synthetic oil.76543
erlihemi
11-09-2017, 12:09 PM
I love that pre-oiler!! I used to have one of those old refillable fire extinguishers to prime and bleed Diesel fuel. Yep, Fuel in a fire extinguisher. I painted it black... I have a Freon tank I use now. Looks like a propane tank with a couple more valves. I painted that green. At least you won't have any bugs in the system now (pun).:D
That would be DAM good if all the BUGS were gone!
Not done but close! 768917689276893768947689576896768977689176898
I think it would have been easier to start from scratch, one wire at a time. As for getting to the black box and the rest of the parts under the dash i am going to make it removable.
This is the leftover wire, even using take off wire for extending wires to the switch panel.76966
Puting computer inside,. With wipers and air hose i am about out of room.7704577046
Got all wiring to cpu done , but have a problem with accelerator pedal, working on that. If you want to do this it is not to hard, but do one wire at a time!
I cut all wires to 70 way plug so i could get the wires where the plug would not fit, then when when i went to put them back together there was some that had three or four the same- **** -where to put them?
Talked to ford racing tec- was told to go by pin# not wire color- ant sent me a better pin chart. 772657726677267
OK i found the problem, there is two tan-yellow wires in the 70 way and i had the one that goes to the c47 plug going to the gas pedal. changed that and ok.
Will wire up cruse control and some other small things, then work on first start.
Checked 50way, looks good, but the wire color is not as on chart.
All wiring done but what you see and that is easy. Full pump runs and fixed three small leaks. As much as i can test and have work everything works, but we will know when i try first start!7745577456774577745877459
Great work as usual Tom. Where did you end up bringing all the wiring in for the CPU?
O2 and starter on right lower. Alt, Mass air flow- fan and electra steer under the manifold and hole in firewall. The main engine bundall is under manifold and uses a notch in top of firewall because i cut and lengthened one wire at a time, so had to have hole big enough for plug so i made the u in top of firewall, will put black gasket maker to seal when done.
Working on the small things that i want to do. This is the third time that the oil hose holder has been worked on ,this will work. 77751777527775377754
It takes a lot of time to finish all the things i find before first start (and i find more i do ). Want to check all systems running before body is put on. Sooo put heater AC control on and no power, S*** ! The relays are under other wiring--
another should have checked before they got covered up!
The problem with AC was i forgot to put a relay in for my remote switch for ac pump, had planned for it but late night and got sidetracked. Was happy with wiring and computer layout, by removing computer and dropping fuse panel got to wiring to check and fix.
JimLev
12-20-2017, 11:55 PM
Just finished reading all 174 posts and links, wow it's a lot of work. I learned a lot reading your posts, thanks.
I ordered my engine and tranny today, I'll order the complete kit in a few days after I figure out all of the options I want.
Thanks JimLev, have fun with your build and yes if you start modding it makes more work.
I was going to start engine yesterday but the SCT x4 does not read car, so could not put on custom start up tune. Will have Son help, & see how that goes.
OK- WE found a bad wire, after that the X4 worked and loaded startup tune. Engine started right up! Still have some things to work through-cruse and reverse lockout donot work- think i need signal wire in to speed sensor, am not using for speedo. Have video on phone but can not put up.782627826378264
It is good to start the engine and listen to it instead of me making engine noise! Have one problem yet to work out, with ac and fan.
erlihemi
12-30-2017, 06:21 PM
Congratulations!!
Fixed lights for all four corners to test , have problem with brake lights making front turns coming on!
The only way to get lights to work right (turn-marker- brake-hazard) is to cut the purple wire ( brake) to column. But then will need a third bulb
This is with stock 33 tail lights , but the LED that come with kit are only three wire looks like need four with ground?
Lights are all good to go. Put led in to use as turn sig.787077870878709
H R Lucky
01-05-2018, 07:41 PM
The only way to get lights to work right (turn-marker- brake-hazard) is to
cut the purple wire ( brake) to column. But then will need a third bulb
This is with stock 33 tail lights , but the LED that come with kit are only three wire looks like need four with ground?
I had the same problem with the brake light feeding to the front turn signal lights, fixed it by connecting both the brake and turn signal wires to the brake LED rear light and installing a diode in the turn signal wire so it couldn't feed back to front turn signals. ( This is with the LED lights that FFR provided with kit)
Nevin
Got it all working the way i like. So put trans cover on and will work on caben insulation or put body on.789087890978910
Put in dynamat, a lot of using little pieces to get around things and not waste mat.790947909579096
erlihemi
01-11-2018, 06:14 PM
Wow, My eyes went crooked trying to sort out the urban camo pattern on that one!! Nice job.
Put down second layer of heat & sound (FFR inflation kit over dynamat) With heat shields over mufflers and have dynadeck to put on floor. Want to not cook feet when it is 100 out, and because of health wife is temp sensitive.
Worked on window wipers (specialty power windows) had to drill down in window frame because top is permenit. lined parts up and drilled holes, put together , looked good, motor would not clear roll bar front leg. Sooo back apart
and had to cut both ends of first tube and reflair ends put all back together. Drilled new holes and together again. Will take apart to cut down shaft & out side tube.794027940379404794057940679407
AJT '33
01-17-2018, 01:21 PM
[QUOTE=1932;309425]Worked on window wipers (specialty power windows) had to drill down in window frame because top is permenit. lined parts up and drilled holes, put together , looked good, motor would not clear roll bar front leg. Sooo back apart
and had to cut both ends of first tube and reflair ends put all back together. Drilled new holes and together again. Will take apart to cut down shaft & out side tube.
Which model did you but from Specialty Power Windows?
DaveS53
01-17-2018, 01:44 PM
AFAIK, there's only one universal kit from specialty power windows. The other question is whether it will clear the brake MCs. I have this unit in my Oze, but in that car, there's just barely enough room to fit the motor into the lower kick panel. The tube is run straight up with a large radius 90 bend to go across the car, under the windshield. If you ruin a tube, it's the same as a 3/8" aluminum fuel line.
http://www.specialtypowerwindows.com/products/2
Universal kit (you pick the switch ) but you need to make the mount ( just a piece of aluminum to fit the underside of dash ). Will bolt to window or top bolts with just the 45 spacer.
Finished the wiper instal 79453 Cut the dash out ( will make aluminum dash ) 79454 In upper left of dash you can see wiper motor, plenty of room. 79455
With all the mods i did , had hard time getting body on--thinking of painting just the main body on frame.
The wipers do get some in the way of defrost tubes-will work this out!
DaveS53
01-19-2018, 10:01 AM
Good idea, cutting out the front of the dash. I still wouldn't want to perform brake service with this setup. Think you could replace a master cylinder with the body on?
To get the speedo & tach so i could see them when driving . Spent to much time on this79641796427964379644
But it is handmade custom! One off!
RoadRacer
01-23-2018, 11:50 AM
To get the speedo & tach so i could see them when driving . Spent to much time on this
I like the gauges there! Nice view
On window wipers--make sure you have the first piece of tube at least as long as drive rod! I did not and wipers will not work! After changed the mount and first part of tube --was able to use a tube that is just longer than rod--
all works good.
Stock cowl lights as marker and turn 799567995779958
Almost done with dash80861 Looking to put small clove box here80862 And used ben pulls for defroster vents because had to put them away from glass80863-may make some to match dash? Out of room!80864
Dash working813718137281373
Fabbed a hood brace for front. Needed because of big hole i cut for scoop.81480814818148281483
You have to take your time to get it to not hit other parts, it only goes one place!
Does the prop rod fit with that brace?
Have not done the prop rod, but will make something work.
Been working on a bracket for front fenders and lights will be on fenders.8187181872818738187481875
Will remove radiator to remove and finish bracket.
The fender will be sandwiched between brackets.
Finished the front tender brace.8196681967
Dodgeman
03-04-2018, 11:36 AM
Your garage looks like mine, but, I know where everything is, and if someone moves it.
Any flat service just likes things on it!
The front fenders and brace are all bolted together and work good!8244382444
With all the parts in front of engine had to change the oil line holder and lower water hose(i don't like the ffr water line)82448
I marked and fit body parts but when i bolted in the fender brace and hard bolted fenders it changed some of the fit(every time the radiator is off it changes some, it seems
hard to get back in same place) sooo working on fitting hood - not bad but slow!
Son holding headlight to see where to place them.82455824568245782458
OK i love the look!
RoadRacer
03-11-2018, 03:44 PM
Son holding headlight to see where to place them.82455824568245782458
OK i love the look!
I haven't looked much at the headlights (and don't have mine yet) - are they the stock FFR ones?
Not FFR. The headlights are stock 33 from Bob Drake.
I ordered wheels and tires so after they come in i can work on mounting headlights then bumper brackets, more fun!
myjones
03-11-2018, 08:00 PM
I haven't looked much at the headlights (and don't have mine yet) - are they the stock FFR ones?
After looking at how thin the housings were and the cup mounts were I decided not to use the FF lights either, they just seemed really
flimsy. So I'm going with something smaller because I just don't like the Mr Magoo look anyway.
TDSapp
03-12-2018, 09:51 AM
After looking at how thin the housings were and the cup mounts were I decided not to use the FF lights either, they just seemed really
flimsy. So I'm going with something smaller because I just don't like the Mr Magoo look anyway.
I did the same after hearing from several folks that they were cheaply built. I just found, and bought, the head lights I want at the Goodguys show this weekend. They are not the big 9" headlights but were a great price. The buckets I got have LED driving\parking lights and the head light has LED turn signals built into them. I will post pictures on my build thread once they come in. They had to ship the gauges I bought so I had them ship everything so I would not have to carry them around.
tcollins
03-12-2018, 12:09 PM
The front fenders and brace are all bolted together and work good!8244382444
With all the parts in front of engine had to change the oil line holder and lower water hose(i don't like the ffr water line)82448
I marked and fit body parts but when i bolted in the fender brace and hard bolted fenders it changed some of the fit(every time the radiator is off it changes some, it seems
hard to get back in same place) sooo working on fitting hood - not bad but slow!
Just noticed your build and that you are using a Coyote with the CJ intake...LOL I thought I was the only one? My company makes the intake for Ford so if you ever have an questions / issues, let me know. Anyway, I very interested in updating my headlights. I just finished my build and its the only thing I really unhappy with. I attempted to make the stock FFR pieces look better by powder coating and adding so ornaments, but they stay tight because the buckets are so flimsy. Anyway nice job, love the hood scoop! P.S. you may have issues with the coolant expansion tank if you are not using the Mustang system with the check valve. I making a custom tank now and will share details if you're interested?
8248682487
I am still looking for a place for the overflow tank!
May need to make one to fit.
tcollins
03-14-2018, 07:04 PM
Have not done the prop rod, but will make something work.
Her is what I did with the hood prop given the CJ hood scoop. Added a rubber grommet and snapped it into the hood brace.
82564 82565
Thanks, i have used up almost all room!
That is a seriously awesome solution
My hood did not fit good in back (worked on before) so i made it bolt down in back.Used cut outs from the dash, bent to fit hood829338293482935829368293782938 Hood is good now! Will make some handles to go with marker-turn lights.
Doors are back on and work, will work on putting water fall in. Have to fit around roll cage.
Worked on waterfall to make fit and working on four inch aluminum to go over top of waterfall and cab fiberglass to permanently hold top.83145831468314783148831498315083151
The aluminum will mach dash, I think the hot rod needs a little ruff old time look! We will see!
Got the aluminum trem in , will pull and do some polishing. working on the parts to go around the roll cage, same aluminum.831728317383174
Body work to fix some work i did before.8317583176
Paint colors - fenders & running boards and everything above stile line ford Bold Yellow 2, sides will be Mitsubishi Plasma purple Effect . Stile line will be Silver.
One stage urethane for inside and base & clear coat outside.
Been working on top i think it is close. I have had problems with this running board-to short and did not mate with fender. Will see next week if i cut the boards and rear fenders. get wheels and tires .83597835988359983600
Work on doors and matching running boards83771837728377383774837758377683777837788377 983780
erlihemi
04-08-2018, 08:11 AM
Hey Tom, just curious, how far off was the running board? Just the one side?
The DS was ok but PS was over one inch short, and did not like fender to board fit. So i smoothed out both sides. Not FFR. Get wheels & tires on 9th, will see if more cutting is in order!
Did not like how the front fender and running board came together so i ground filler out and made it straight looking down the side.83858838598386083861
New wheels & tires!
Worked on fiting trunk lid. For all that have yet to do trunk lid (1) Put hinges on BEFORE body (2) work sides so lid fits in but not gaped, then work on top to get lid to fit with body sides, take your time mine fit good!839908399183992
I wanted the stock trunk handle-locking-. To make it work took Three spacers dam close to the right length - for any spacing- and a piece of square tubing with the inside rounded and put in with short strand filler to make the lock work.8408784088840898409084091
Will make the catch later.
Built the other part of trunk latch. wielded base to the 1 inch square tube then made the latch part out of rock crusher wiper, it is rubbery plastic, did not want metal to metal.841088410984110
Ok all good!
First time for wheels on.
Cut the boards and rear fenders, want them just outside of tire, so i think i need to do the alignment8434984350843518435284353843548435584356
Looks like need to lower back..
wallace18
04-19-2018, 07:24 AM
Boy, that is looking wicked! Fantastic job so far.
AJT '33
04-19-2018, 09:58 AM
First time for wheels on.
Cut the boards and rear fenders, want them just outside of tire, so i think i need to do the alignment8434984350843518435284353843548435584356
Looks like need to lower back..
If I could suggest a trick for the split fender in the back, I would suggest feathering each cut edge, then you take a piece of arborite that is at least a couple inches wider than the split on each side, cut it as long as the split, wax the arborite only with a de-molding wax, lay it over the finished side of the split, attach to the top of the fender so its very secure (if using screws predrill the arborite and not the fiberglass and use round head screws, these can be quickly patched after), remove the fender, flip it over, paint in some Gelcoat (if you have some if not a nice wet first layer of fiberglass) on the arborite up to the edge of the existing fiberglass, let the Gelcoat set, then laminate it together with a few layers of mat starting with no overlap on the first layer only (1 oz. mat) and then adding an inch of overlap on subsequent layers (suggest 1 oz. mat, then 6 oz. cloth, 1oz. mat, 6 oz. cloth minimum, I would add another layer of mat and cloth). Since the fender is basically flat this will save a lot of time in aligning and finishing work and will give you the strongest connection between the two. Have fun!!
erlihemi
04-19-2018, 03:15 PM
I kind of did what AJT is saying. I made the hidden inside part more structural and squeezed the glass with a sandwich of 2 waxed pieces of leftover paneling. I could only do a practical bend of 50% of the fender so I did the top first for gravity assistance and I had long reach welding clamps on it to get the inside overlaps clamped. Almost identical approach to Tom's except I cut a curve at the front and narrowed my running boards.
I didn't have gelcoat, but that would have been nice.
Caution: My Fender width with 345's matches the inside of my aluminum trailer...oops...ship in a bottle syndrome. But, I am set up to swap between the original rears and the extra wide dually option so if I trailer it I can put the old set back on.
Working on the alignment 84802848038480484805
The alignment was not bad after i got the program right!
After that i saw that the fenders were off, had to lower the PS with spacer inside on fender brace, all good.
Getting ready to glass rear fenders and boards.849108491184912
All glassted up8528485285 now on to cleanup and finish. Need to make board frame to fit 85286
Then on to bumper and fab mounts85287
Running boards turned out to be more work because of them being cupped, i have them flat and at 180 paper. The fenders have the first primer, will see how good they are tomorrow.854148541485415
Put fenders and boards on and needed to cut the back and tuck it in to match fender not go around outside 85643and on front of boards need to round or blend this 85644
Other wise i am good.8564585646
I am happy with the fenders and boards 858698587085871858728587385874 Had to add glass to both front of fenders and both backs of boards.
Will start on bumpers or lights, and have the doors to finish.
AJT '33
05-17-2018, 07:56 AM
85874 Had to add glass to both front of fenders and both backs of boards. Will start on bumpers or lights, and have the doors to finish.
Hey Tim, I noticed that you have bolts going through the running boards, I would like to suggest a possible alternative to having it bolted through (will eliminate the holes). Please take a look at this link: http://rotaloc.com/products/bonding_fasteners/male-threaded-bolt-studs/, we use these male threaded bolt studs all over the place in the industry we are in.In your application I would use something like this one: http://rotaloc.com/products/bonding_fasteners/male-threaded-bolt-studs/m1-sb32/ in stainless, which could be simply laminated to the underside of the running board and it is just as strong as the bolt through and the attachment is hidden. I/we use the Rotaloc nuts all over the place in what we do which simplifies a lot of hidden critical attachments. With the level of detail you are putting in here I would highly suggest using these to keep the clean and precise look your developing. Cheers!
Thanks AJT, but i can not get them on with the studs sticking out!
FFinisher
05-17-2018, 12:16 PM
Wow! Very impressive! Looks fantastic.
AJT '33
05-17-2018, 01:13 PM
Thanks AJT, but i can not get them on with the studs sticking out!
And if you did a Rotaloc nut and screwed a bolt up into it? There are a lot of varieties out there otherwise mabe integrate a decorative protective plate on the running board that uses those bolts as well.
Hi AJT, i just glassed the front fenders to boards, made one part. pics to come.
Will have outside door handles and coul lights, so bolts will have some company.
Glassed the front fenders and boards together, because of not fitting and work to make them look my way!86065
Fabbed up the rear bumper mounts- 1 inch DOM and angle iron is good!8606686067860688606986071
Will put the battery on bumper bracket, have to make other part.86070
I really like the bumpers. Looking forward to see the finish on them
AZREALTOR
05-21-2018, 09:11 AM
I think that is a terrific style! The bumpers, door and trunk handles, stock lights etc really look good. I even like the exposed running board bolts!
AJT '33
05-21-2018, 03:39 PM
Are you looking to do a front fender as well?? I'm interested as I need to do the same and have concepted a look out of simple Oval tubing.