Engine Problems

[jaw777]

My engine is from a 2002 wrx (2.0 turbo). The engine was running great, but now not so much. It chokes out under the slightest load.

I am getting a P1093 code (LH tumbler valve stuck closed).

First, can someone please confirm that LH is the driver's side. I only ask because I removed the tvg motor and reset it on the driver side after getting the code. The valve seemed to move fine. No help.

Is there a good way to just keep the valve in the open position?

I am considering tgv delete kit, but I don't know if I can delete the codes from the ECU. (Can my Cobb tuner perform this or do I need to take it with someone with more advanced equipment)

Can someone recommend the easiest/best value tgv delete kit if I decide to go in that direction?

Thanks for the help.

[billjr212]

I can confirm you can delete the tgv codes with the cobb tuner. I did it. Pretty easy. You just need to request the "pro" software or whatever they call it from cobb (it's free and you just provide them a bit of info).

[NevaLift2Shift]

Is there a good way to just keep the valve in the open position?

I am considering tgv delete kit, but I don't know if I can delete the codes from the ECU. (Can my Cobb tuner perform this or do I need to take it with someone with more advanced equipment)

Can someone recommend the easiest/best value tgv delete kit if I decide to go in that direction?

Thanks for the help.

The easiest is to buy some ones that have already been done. If you have a die grinder, porting bit and a 10mm tap, you can cut out the shelf (after removing the butterflies, motors, sensors, and rod) then drill and tap 10mm holes for bolts in the side of the TGV's, then cut the bolts off and grind them down. If you go that route, make sure there is some sealant on the bolts threads, you don't want an air leak.

[jaw777]

Thanks guys. Leaning towards the delete. Will want it done when I rebuild it anyway.

[jaw777]

I ordered TGV deletes and have managed to get the TGV stuck open so I can try to drive it. However, I am running into boost problems. As I accelerate I get 5-6 psi boost and then all of a sudden the boost drops to 0 and the engine cuts out. No codes except the TGV stuck open. The engine ran great when I pulled it from the donor, but that was a while back.

The boost control solenoid tests at 33 ohms so I am assuming that is OK.

I was assuming boost leak, but the drop is instantaneous. Then the car will slowly build back up and then cut out again.

Bad turbo?

Thanks.

[ssssly]

5-6 PSI isn't even waste gate spring pressure.

So either something is throwing a code that is causing fuel cut, or you have a massive air leak (IE BOV isn't torqued down, blown intake manifold gasket, TMIC coupler loose).

If you have had the manifold off messing with the TGVs, I would start there. Those bolts like to snap.

[jaw777]

Thanks ssssly. I had the manifold off when I replaced the engine harness. I'll start there when I get the TGV deletes. I replaced the gaskets when I had the manifold off, but I'll probably order a new one and bolts.

[ssssly]

No problem. It could be the turbo, but with it that close to your head, if it was off balance enough to hit the inside of the housing, you would hear it. If it was seals, you would be blowing smoke and oil either into the intake tract or out the tailpipe.

If the WG was stuck open, you might be able to build up a few PSI before the ECU cut fuel though. So might be with pulling vac on the WG line to see if it actuated and moves freely as well.

[jaw777]

Everything seems to run great right up to the point where it loses boost. Although I did hear a metal clank one time so I guess the turbo could still be the problem. I will check the waste gate next.

Is it odd that the ECU wouldn't throw some kind of code?

[ssssly]

It could be throwing a temporary code.