Alignment Observations

[FFRSpec72]

So I'm still play with alignment but it seems that we pretty much have to live with whatever caster we have when we set the camber. The camber seems to be around -2 or 3 degrees, the caster at this point can only be altered by swapping the LCA mounts from flat side to rounded and also the LCA bushing mounts can be flipped but that is about all you can do for caster unless you go changing out suspension parts. So looks like you are pretty good if you set your toe in/out and camber and let the caster be as is (do what FFR suggests on the mounts and flipping the bushing mounts but once that is done that is all you can do.

[Hindsight]

Tony, you can adjust caster with the rear upper threaded tube. It does impact camber as well but if I recall correctly, the forward adjust impacts camber more directly, and the rear adjuster impacts caster. Most people run out of room on those threaded tubes, myself included, and have to modify them by cutting them down (as well as cutting the threaded portion of the a-arms down as well) or buying shorter ones. I'm going to have to do that on mine.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, you can adjust caster with the rear upper threaded tube. It does impact camber as well but if I recall correctly, the forward adjust impacts camber more directly, and the rear adjuster impacts caster. Most people run out of room on those threaded tubes, myself included, and have to modify them by cutting them down (as well as cutting the threaded portion of the a-arms down as well) or buying shorter ones. I'm going to have to do that on mine.

Yea my tubes are bottomed out and the threads (rods) are hitting one and other also, not sure if I will modify or not thus my point was you are stuck with the caster that the camber gets you unless you want to go modify things. I just want enough caster not to wonder on track as I have about 8 degrees in my challenge car and its a workout on corners.

[Hindsight]

I think I ended up with about 3 degrees of caster.

Anyone know what size and pitch tube-nut FFR uses so I could order a shorter one instead of cutting mine down? Would also need to know so I could get a tap and die to clean up cut threads. That's been on my todo list but not high up.

[FFRSpec72]

I think I ended up with about 3 degrees of caster.

Anyone know what size and pitch tube-nut FFR uses so I could order a shorter one instead of cutting mine down? Would also need to know so I could get a tap and die to clean up cut threads. That's been on my todo list but not high up.

I have used these before http://www.joesracing.com/i-21090928-joes-9-hex-tube-3-4-16.html as the thread should be 3/4-16 a that is what my challenge car uses and I believe these are the same UCA used on the roadster

[Hindsight]

Awesome thank you!

[Frank818]

the caster at this point can only be altered by swapping the LCA mounts from flat side to rounded and also the LCA bushing mounts can be flipped but that is about all you can do for caster unless you go changing out suspension parts.

Not totally true. Just add 10mm spacers between the 2 big bolts on the black pin mount from bushing to LCA and it will add much more caster. I'm at 4 right now with -1 or so camber. I still have play for more of both but need any more of either.

I don't know how you got -2 without any suspension mods, if I recall most people couldn't even get -0.5. Do you stick with -2? If not then you can reduce it and gain more caster, without adding those spacers.

Like Hind said the longer tube affects more caster and less camber.


Oh wait, are you using STEEL or ALU LCAs? The spacers only work with ALU ones.

[FFRSpec72]

Not totally true. Just add 10mm spacers between the 2 big bolts on the black pin mount from bushing to LCA and it will add much more caster. I'm at 4 right now with -1 or so camber. I still have play for more of both but need any more of either.

I don't know how you got -2 without any suspension mods, if I recall most people couldn't even get -0.5. Do you stick with -2? If not then you can reduce it and gain more caster, without adding those spacers.

Like Hind said the longer tube affects more caster and less camber.


Oh wait, are you using STEEL or ALU LCAs? The spacers only work with ALU ones.

I have the STi aluminum LCA, but not sure what bolts you are talking about, the rear control arm mount ?

[Frank818]

Here, first pic in this post http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12179-Frank818-1993-VW-VR6-Turbo-donor-Build-Thread&p=223717&viewfull=1#post223717

These spacers are now sold by Craig 0DB.

[FFRSpec72]

Here, first pic in this post http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12179-Frank818-1993-VW-VR6-Turbo-donor-Build-Thread&p=223717&viewfull=1#post223717

These spacers are now sold by Craig 0DB.

Thanks.

So far w/o any mods to the suspension I have the following

Rear - toe/in 2mm, camber -2.5
Front - toe/in 2mm, camber +2, caster +1
Front 400lbs springs, rear 600lbs springs

[RetroRacing]

Rear camber- 2.5, 1/16th toe in
Front camber 3, 1/16th toe in, 4.5 castor

I have no idea how we got the numbers we did, but we are maxed out on castor. We did cut down both of the top adjusters, could afford a little more. We also are using offset inner front lower control arm mounts, flipped right to left. Not sure what that does, if anything, it just seemed to go together better that way with little binding.