Reliable Setup Recommendations

[Solidworks-Mike]

I'll be installing a 2006 2.5L turbo WRX motor into my build so I wanted to get some suggestions about how to meet the goals in my head.

I won't be racing the car at all, I want the car for pure pleasure driving, drives out to the lake etc. However I'd like it to also have some performance, say in the 250-300hp range. If that's my goal what should I be contemplating in terms of engine upgrades to reach the 300hp level? And can it still be a reliable car that I could drive from Vegas to So Cal on a whim?

Combined with me and some of the accessories I'll be adding (radio, amp, speakers, electronics), I'm guessing I'll be adding about 200-250 pounds to the build (my weight plus accessories).

Thanks guys.

[Hindsight]

To the wheels or the crank? A stock turbo 2006 can put down 250hp (or very close) to the wheels with a tune and a few easy mods. That's with a good exhaust system (on stock headers and up-pipe), no cat, good intake. That will be plenty reliable so long as you are able to keep intake temps down. That means a good intercooler and an intake drawing cold air in.

If you want more than that, you'll need a bigger turbo. If you only want 300 to the wheels, a VF turbo off an STI will get you there, reliably and cheaply ($~300-$400 used). You don't really need engine upgrades for reliability at the 300hp level, but the pistons would be the weakest point. Ring lands crack. Will it happen at 300hp? Probably not if you have a GOOD tune in it, run 93 octane gas, keep intake temps down, and keep an eye on data logs to ensure you have no knock going on and that your AFRs look good. But anything is possible. If something does happen, you can get a new factory short block with forged pistons and race bearings for like $2700 or so, like this: http://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Stage-1-2-5L-Subaru-Short-Block-WRX-STI-LGT-p/iag-eng-1000.htm

[RM1SepEx]

Mike, My build and yours are similar in weight and goals. I went full 3 inch exhaust with cat and muffler with AAIC mounted to the side. I think that the stock IC location is problematic to your HP goals. I'll be dynoing mine again soon. My first pulls were minus the pill in the tube going to the wastegate so I only pulled 10 psi, yet that gave me 220 wheel HP. (I rotated the turbo 135 degrees and the bigger IC is on the right side vent) I'm expecting to now reach 13.5 (stock) psi levels and getting 240-250 WHP with my stock 2.0 wrx motor and a Cobb stage 2 tune. Increasing boost levels can get you farther until injector and turbo issues come.

You can meet your goals with stock components as long as you address the stock location IC issues. Either relocate an AAIC to where you can get better airflow or go to an AWIC as many people have.
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[Solidworks-Mike]

To the wheels or the crank? A stock turbo 2006 can put down 250hp (or very close) to the wheels with a tune and a few easy mods. That's with a good exhaust system (on stock headers and up-pipe), no cat, good intake. That will be plenty reliable so long as you are able to keep intake temps down. That means a good intercooler and an intake drawing cold air in.

If you want more than that, you'll need a bigger turbo. If you only want 300 to the wheels, a VF turbo off an STI will get you there, reliably and cheaply ($~300-$400 used). You don't really need engine upgrades for reliability at the 300hp level, but the pistons would be the weakest point. Ring lands crack. Will it happen at 300hp? Probably not if you have a GOOD tune in it, run 93 octane gas, keep intake temps down, and keep an eye on data logs to ensure you have no knock going on and that your AFRs look good. But anything is possible. If something does happen, you can get a new factory short block with forged pistons and race bearings for like $2700 or so, like this: http://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Stage-1-2-5L-Subaru-Short-Block-WRX-STI-LGT-p/iag-eng-1000.htm

To the wheels.

I'm going to run an AWIC system which will take care of temps. I'll look into the turbo as a possible upgrade then.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Mike, My build and yours are similar in weight and goals. I went full 3 inch exhaust with cat and muffler with AAIC mounted to the side. I think that the stock IC location is problematic to your HP goals. I'll be dynoing mine again soon. My first pulls were minus the pill in the tube going to the wastegate so I only pulled 10 psi, yet that gave me 220 wheel HP. (I rotated the turbo 135 degrees and the bigger IC is on the right side vent) I'm expecting to now reach 13.5 (stock) psi levels and getting 240-250 WHP with my stock 2.0 wrx motor and a Cobb stage 2 tune. Increasing boost levels can get you farther until injector and turbo issues come.

You can meet your goals with stock components as long as you address the stock location IC issues. Either relocate an AAIC to where you can get better airflow or go to an AWIC as many people have.
\


Good to know that my goal will be obtainable while using a CAT since here in Nevada the car will require an annual smog check. I was going to have a second pipe made without a cat which I assume will require two different tunes, so I'm still debating that.

[Loring]

Weekend cruiser? Run e85 and turn the boost up.

There are quite a few guys running stock internal EJs with a lot more power than that on e85. You'll need a proper turbo and different injectors, along with all the other supporting mods.

[Scargo]

Stats are everywhere that you can do up to 380WHP on premium pump gas. Some claim 400+ (which I don't believe/wouldn't risk)! No need to fool with mods for E85!
As has been said (without much explanation) simple, typical upgrades will get you there. 3" CAI/3" exhaust. A better turbo is a plus for a better power curve.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Stats are everywhere that you can do up to 380WHP on premium pump gas. Some claim 400+ (which I don't believe/wouldn't risk)! No need to fool with mods for E85!
As has been said (without much explanation) simple, typical upgrades will get you there. 3" CAI/3" exhaust. A better turbo is a plus for a better power curve.

Thanks for info. I'll be running 93 octane as I do in all my cars. I guess its time to start researching turbos!

[TouchStone]

Install a VF34 or VF39. I got mine from a guy who has rebuilt a bunch of them. He ports, polishes and replaces the chra with a billet compressor (see link below, he is typically out of the VF34s VF39s). He also clocked mine on request to work with Craigs AWIC. Also you'll need STI fuel injectors, or ID1000's. My engine was rebuilt to stock and without the CAT I get 323hp.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-WRX-STI-FORESTER-BAJAS-genuine-IHI-VF39-W-BILLET-compressor-rebuilt/152011325980?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D35851%26meid%3Da825b9844bb2448c8cf52379e0cd 3f95%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D1520 11329115

[Scargo]

You might want to do a little research. Here is a link to a list of turbos on NASIOC (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=40726902&postcount=3). This list is sorted by max flow rate. There are several schools of thought about turbos. One is to buy cheap Chinese turbos and throw them away after X hours. Another is to buy quality and have it rebuilt. Ball bearing CHRAs are more money but really last. Some turbos are more efficient in their compressor and turbine designs. Twin scroll is another option.
As yours is a stock motor and you only want 300WHP I would look at smaller turbos that spool-up fast and give you good low-end torque. OTOH, as often is the case, it is a slippery slope with power. You may want to get one that could be good for more power and suffer slightly on the low end response. This might be a good ploy for saving the tranny! Many are learning that the five-speed can't handle much additional torque combined with big tires. Old, tired motors also won't survive long without TLC and attention paid to details, like adding an oil cooler.
Note: I am going through getting my Blouch rebuilt. The ball bearing turbo has served me well on a race motor for years. However, I am not pleased with the communication and time it's taking Blouch and they haven't even started on it yet! Because a Blouch is not a pure Garrett turbo, Garrett dealers/rebuilders I've talked to will not touch it. They will sell/exchange the CHRA and that's it.
I am looking for a rebuilder in the N-E that can do it all and has a good track record. I would tackle a rebuild if I could and yet I couldn't get the CHRA off the turbine and I can't balance the assembly once the wheels are back on. I cannot recommend you getting a Blouch because of the service issues and poor service reputation.

[TouchStone]

Having a turbo that blows puts you engine under fatigue stress because pieces of the damaged turbo make their way to the engine which can continue to do damage even after the turbo is replaced. I would just say no to cheap turbos.

[Scargo]

Having a turbo that blows puts you engine under fatigue stress because pieces of the damaged turbo make their way to the engine which can continue to do damage even after the turbo is replaced. I would just say no to cheap turbos.
I'm just saying that a racer I met, with a twin turbo setup on his (I think) GTM, replaced them on a regular interval.

I'm having my $1,700 turbo rebuilt for $924. That's a new CHRA and turbine housing. Everything else is re-used. Housing could be salvaged but they won't fool with it. That's $225 of it. So $700 for new CHRA and possibly labor on top of that plus $70 for shipping both ways.
You can buy Chinese turbos for $210 and up! (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014VPQ436?keywords=turbocharger&qid=1457729352&ref_=sr_1_20&refinements=p_36%3A1253497011&s=automotive&sr=1-20)

[TouchStone]

I'm just saying that a racer I met, with a twin turbo setup on his (I think) GTM, replaced them on a regular interval.

Interesting, would never have thought about replacing a turbo like you replace tires.

[Loring]

Haha. Scheduled maintenance and the honda guys will buy them for almost what you paid for them.;)

[Scargo]

Haha. Scheduled maintenance and the honda guys will buy them for almost what you paid for them.;) I don't understand your comment. Please elaborate.

[RM1SepEx]

I don't understand your comment. Please elaborate.

It's a strategy, buy cheap turbos and replace them after xx,xxx miles, then sell them used to kids who hot rod Hondas for what you paid for a cheap turbo. There are many ways to skin a cat. Racers consider many parts to have a fixed, reliable life and replace before they fail. If you don't mind the effort to remove and replace...

[Scargo]

Ever heard of Cavalli Turbos (http://www.cavalliturbo.com/SubaruWRXSTI)? I hadn't till two days ago. They are the exclusive distributor for OEM drop-in triple ball bearing (billet CHRA) turbos manufactured by Comp Turbo Technologies Inc. of Pomona, CA. Similar to Blouch turbos, perhaps. They aren't cheap, but are beautiful.

[Hindsight]

One thing I don't ever see discussed pertaining to turbos is vehicle weight vs boost onset. You do hear things like "turbos spool differently on a dyno vs on the street" and I believe this to be a function of load. A heavier car will generate more load on the turbo, which theoretically will help it generate boost sooner. So my question is, on a very light weight car, is the turbo going to come into boost later than on a heavier car, or is it the same?

[Loring]

I don't understand your comment. Please elaborate.

Well if you replace something regularly, it's called scheduled maintenance. The second was a joke referring to people who spend as little as possible on their turbo setups, sometimes with misplaced value. Everywhere I've lived, statistically speaking, it seems that the majority are Honda owners. Sorry the joke missed you.