Retro Racing R build

[RetroRacing]

After 100 or so hours of frame prep, we now get to play mechanical. Water neck mod, remake all rear suspension shims for heim joints, changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).
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[FFRSpec72]

Why didn't you use a swedge bar for the trailing arm ? Not enough tire clearance ?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

After 100 or so hours of frame prep, we now get to play mechanical. Water neck mod, remake all rear suspension shims for heim joints, changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).
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Hi Retro,
I like the white chassis.
Your water pump inlet may stick out to far. By the time you add an elbow, it might rub on the chassis.
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If you decrease the size of your pictures to 1000x750 they will show up on your post.

I also wanted to go all metric. There are a lot of 1/2" (12.7mm) holes that are difficult or expensive to change.
Like shock ends and all the rod end holes are 1/2" (12.7mm).
Bob

[Flamshackle]

looks great. I have ordered my 818C and am planning on painting my chassis white so its good to see yours all gleaming.

[C.Plavan]

Why didn't you use a swedge bar for the trailing arm ? Not enough tire clearance ?

That would be my guess. I really like the white.

[longislandwrx]

changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).


43443

43444

Wait, what's the issue?

[RetroRacing]

THanks all, white was because our EP cars are white inside and underneath, so you can see each and every leak. The water neck is actually shorter than the pulley, so we are crossing fingers. We installed a double pass rad, with both inlet/outlet on the right side, so that we can plumb down the passenger side of the car. Swedge bar is new lingo to me (rotary noise has killed some brain cells), we just went with what we had, fine tune later, easy change once we know what kind of loads we are dealing with (may go with a small alum. trailing arm with Hiems on each end and some high misalignment spacers).
Going kind small on the rears, so we will see what happens. Installing a bar on the rear with some lighter springs, looking at some better shocks as well.
just remember, 1/2" is 13mm......I can live with that:)

[flynntuna]

43443

43444

Wait, what's the issue?

Now that's funny

http://gifs.gifbin.com/012010/1264091579_kirk_rofl.gif

[RetroRacing]

So, it's funny how you can put in 4-8 hours every day and see so little progress, but here we are. Clutch is in (Finally), fuel rails and injectors, header, pan, blah blah. Put the engine in the car, only to find our mounts (racey delerin things) are 1/2" taller than the stock ones, which means cutting our powder coated upper cross member thingy to miss the bypass valve actuator.....
Thinking about either adding a step down in the center of the car (full length) to cover the header and speed the air down the center of the car and create some down force, or lower the whole floor by 1' (foam covered CF, graphite impregnated). Probably just do the center, less hassle, easier to remove if needed.
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Oh, and still finish the Miata, fix one of the EP cars that hit the wall, put the RX3 back together.........
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[Buzz Skyline]

Why not modify the mounts? Or sell those and buy shorter ones? Lots of companies make them. I also came very close to making my own - they aren't very complicated pieces - but ended up with Group N mounts instead.

[RetroRacing]

Buzz,
Thought about it, but we like the clearance of the headers right now, means we only need a 1" step down tunnel. I'm sure it will result in more unforeseen mods, but that just makes it ....fun??

[Harley818]

nows the time to drill and tap your coolant line to the degas tank as shown in Wayne's mod. Helps eliminate the air in the coolant system.

[RetroRacing]

So, we suck at bloging our build, sorry. Wheels, tires, brakes, steering, seat mounts all done, body fit. Starting the wiring, plumbing this week. Looks like Flat black with metallic orange stripes is the winning color pallet....
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[Steve Powell]

If I was KING OF THE WORLD there would be no black race cars allowed. They blend in to much with the black pavement and grey northwest skies . You just can't see them coming up behind you. Red, white, yellow, bright/light blue, whatever but no silver/grey or black. Your project looks great by the way. See you at the track.

[FFRSpec72]

Your project looks great by the way. See you at the track.

Gee, Steve you never tell me that !

[RetroRacing]

5lb alternator mocked up and ready for install on the car, jacking points installed. Just finishing up the metal on the tub so that we can run water lines, then it's fit the air jacks and start pluming everything. Fuel cell is ordered ($4k...ouch!) and wing is on the way today. Doing a custom wing-thing, will post pictures as soon as the mounts are made and installed.
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[FFRSpec72]

Making great progress ! Looks good.

[Rasmus]

Nice alternator. One wire or three wire? Powermaster 8162?

[FFRSpec72]

Nice alternator. One wire or three wire? Powermaster 8162?

You just like it because it saves weight !

[Rasmus]

You just like it because it saves weight !

Na uh. I like it because, because, ....

http://www.sharegif.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/sadbabyupsetdisappointedfrown.gif
Well I don't have to have a reason! I can just like it if I want to!

Does it come in an unpainted version?

[RetroRacing]

Power master, don't remember the model but it is a one wire, 75amp. You have to machine a bushing for the pulley, but easy peasy. Sealed the front of the tub last night, now onto the rear bulkhead. We moved the fuel cell to the passenger compartment, so easy two piece, flat panel. Installing the intercooler tonight....should be fun! Yes, we did go inside/outside with the front panels, easier and better for access to the control arm bolts. (you know the ones.....)
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[Mulry]

After 100 or so hours of frame prep, we now get to play mechanical. Water neck mod, remake all rear suspension shims for heim joints, changing all mounts to metric (drives one's mechanic crazy when at the track and you have both metric and standard on the car).
43429

Where did you find that water neck mod? I'd like to run our water lines up the middle (since we'll be running a fuel cell on the passenger side) to keep them out of harm's way in a side collision, and that water neck mod would be ideal to get the lines running that direction. Thanks!

[RetroRacing]

Cut the stock one flush at the mounting flange and weld on a 1.75" or 1.5" pipe (depending on your rad, etc.) You could even weld on an alum. elbow, just in how you want to do it, lots of clearance.

[Mulry]

Excellent. Thanks.

[RetroRacing]

Floor is in for the middle section, flat bottom for the rest of the car is cut and ready to install soon. Intercooler is almost in, scoop is being cut tonight to fit we hope, should have pics of rad shroud tomorrow as well.
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[Mulry]

That is really sweet looking. Couple questions if you'll indulge me:

Is that an A2A or an AWIC? I don't see any water lines, but they could be obscured by the sheet aluminum. Did you fabricate it yourself or purchase, and if so, where?

I look forward to seeing the forward scoop and shroud.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Floor is in for the middle section, flat bottom for the rest of the car is cut and ready to install soon. Intercooler is almost in, scoop is being cut tonight to fit we hope, should have pics of rad shroud tomorrow as well.
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Retro,
Very interesting intercooler. Will it move with the engine and transmission?
I suspect that it might hit the rear bumper. I can't tell for sure from that camera angle.
Bob

[RetroRacing]

Air to air, mounted to the top of the transmission so it will move with the engine. Clears the rear facia, oil cooler and transfer cooler will be mounted inside the box!
Intercooler is a cxracing cooler, heavier than I wanted but good for a start

[STiPWRD]

Will your floor be removable? If not, getting the seats mounted could be very difficult.

[RetroRacing]

We welded in modified seat mounts for the OMP slider and seat, so no issue with the floor. We will be flat bottom for full length with only the center drop down for the tunnel removable under the engine. The center drop will be CF with carbon impregnated in the resin. Center drop down in only 1", but should create some extra downforce.

Going with the GT250 wing, mounted on blades out of the rear of the car, that are welded to the rear frame. That will both protect the trans, and move the wing back a bit. We are also one-piecing the rear trunk lid and cover, makes it easier to get to the engine.

will post pics of the front rad shroud once done this week.

[Zach34]

Going with the GT250 wing, mounted on blades out of the rear of the car, that are welded to the rear frame.

That's my plan too, more or less. I won't get to that for quite some time, though. Can't wait to see your solution!

[RetroRacing]

We did get some stuff done today, seat in, peddle assembly, steering, oil cooler mounted in the inter cooler box, shifter mocked up, radiator outlet box done, etc.
Pics to follow

[RetroRacing]

pics as promised
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[Rasmus]

I like the intercooler and oil-cooler integrated box. Good idea.

[Mulry]

I just like seeing different solutions to similar problems :) I love this from a packaging standpoint, but I'd be concerned about the heated air from the A2A providing insufficient cooling for the oil. I'd assume that RetroRacing doesn't share that concern. Care to share why -- is the post-A2A air just not that hot?

[RetroRacing]

A2A intercoolers are only about 70% efficient, so at 140 degrees out of the turbo, the net intake temp would be about 95, so the resulting through temp would be only 45 degrees above ambient. The cooler you see is a 12x12, capable of about 40k btu, so way over what it would need to be, but we thought better to tape it than to wish we needed more. We plan on mounting the trans cooler to the back of that unit as well. The fitting is for the trans vent, hose and filter later.
The cooler is WAY more efficient if you control the air, as in force is all through the coolers without spillage. Once we mount the scoop and force fast cool air through the coolers.....

[Mitch Wright]

Some interesting idea's. I am going down the same road ducting the radiator exhaust air out through the hood.

[Mulry]

How do you attach the rad ducting at the radiator? That's always been a mystery to me.

[Mitch Wright]

Depends on the radiator, on other projects we have made tabs to mount or to attach the duct to or in our case the front radiator support/frame and seal the duct to the radiator with weather striping.

[Mulry]

Depends on the radiator, on other projects we have made taps the mount or attach the duct to in our case the front radiator support/frame and seal the duct to the radiator with weather striping.

That makes sense. Thanks!

[RetroRacing]

Its just a 90 degree bend and some weather stripping. We should be getting the intake side done later this week, it will not be on the outside of the front support frame, but bent to fit only the core section of the rad, trying to force air through the tanks never seems to work....
Fun part is the complex bend to match the bottom "cat fish mouth" of the splitter/nose. Will look great when done, but why must they do that to me!!! Since we have a 3 core, double pass rad, we will be taking the brake ducting from the airbox instead of making up stuff in the front.
Note to FFR, duct hose is round, a 3" round brake duct intake in the air dam wouldn't be too much to ask.....would it?

[Sgt.Gator]

What class are you building this car to race in?

[C.Plavan]

I can atest that anything you think will work 100% before testing, will fall victim to the 818 Curse. :) Nothing works like you think with the 818- its so wierd (Airflow, Heat management, vents etc)

[RetroRacing]

Building it for the ES class at the 25 hour next year, going to run every enduro next year to test. Here is a pic of the intercooler scoop mocked up. Yes, we are looking at probably changing 30-40% of what we are doing in both aero and engine, after building 10 or so race cars, you kinda have to just except it when building something different.
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[C.Plavan]

Building it for the ES class at the 25 hour next year, going to run every enduro next year to test. Here is a pic of the intercooler scoop mocked up. Yes, we are looking at probably changing 30-40% of what we are doing in both aero and engine, after building 10 or so race cars, you kinda have to just except it when building something different.
46079

I wasn't knocking you- Everything looks great. I'm just baffled with this 818. Scoop looks good, have you thought of puller fans below the oil cooler? Or do you think that might restrict flow?

[RetroRacing]

I know you weren't, your comments always seem positive and we are all looking to make this thing work. We do have a puller fan ready to go, just in case, but want to test without first. We will be wiring a temp switch into the box as well so that the fan (if installed) will eliminate heat soak when shut down. (probably in the oil circuit) It will be nice to have one fan cool all coolers during shut down.

[Mulry]

That scoop looks sweet. CF or fiberglass? I was planning to run our A2A in the side scoop area, but seeing this I might reconsider that plan. Keeping that intercooler in that location would certainly reduce the air plumbing and thus reduce any lag.

[Mechie3]

Fiberglass made by Kurk818 in Seattle. He only made a few, but I think he plans to make more this winter.

[RetroRacing]

Ebay, Boss mustang, needs to be altered significantly to fit properly, but we got skills. We are using a 26 x 12 x 3" intercooler, so hard to find an exact fit. We will be pulling a mold for ourselves, will let you know how it works out once we complete it. We are making the whole rear top section one piece instead of two, and we have cut the side things off and mounted them to the fenders to make access to the engine easier. Since we are mounting the wing from the rear, no issues with doing that.

[RetroRacing]

We fit the lights last night.....that joke was not funny.

[Kurk818]

We fit the lights last night.....that joke was not funny.

Ha! You can say that again.

To make it even better, the light pattern and beam alignment will be nowhere near where it should be.

[Mechie3]

Fiberglass made by Kurk818 in Seattle. He only made a few, but I think he plans to make more this winter.



Ebay, Boss mustang, needs to be altered significantly to fit properly, but we got skills. .

oops...I thought I was in C. Plavan's thread. That explains why I couldn't find my post later, because it was in this thread.

[RetroRacing]

Going aftermarket for some HID's once we finish fitting these, also adding some 4" 100w hid spots in the "grill" area.

[RetroRacing]

Fitting body panels is time consuming, dirty, sucky work. Did, however, get the splitter in place and the front portion of the flat bottom mocked up and ready for final install (once the airjacks, rad hoses, brake lines, etc are installed.
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[RetroRacing]

Shorter than stock intercooler piping??? Maybe.
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[Hindsight]

Custom end-caps? Slick! Have you considered the pressure drop with that dual-pass setup?

[RetroRacing]

Really been hard to find the time to work on the 818 with getting the RX3 ready for sale, winterizing the 7's etc.
Got the ducting done for the rad, just need to vinyl wrap the inside to slicken it up a bit, now onto some splitter supports and fiber glassing the rear area together into one piece. Decided to snorkel the intercooler once we saw the wind tunnel results.
Templates are out to the water jet guy for the air jack mounts, hope to have them in this weekend.46945

[Mulry]

What form are you using to snorkel the intercooler plenum? Or are you building a custom one?

Here's a thought. The Norma M20 FC won the 25 Hours of Thunderhill last year. I think it's just running an N/A engine, so this was only for air intake and not A2A cooling, but the location and principle should be similar even if we would need a slightly larger intake area, and it could be faired in to have a minimal effect on the wing:

http://www.auroramotorsports.com/norma/norma.htm

[Mulry]

Here's a photo of the actual winning car. Different snorkel intake. This wouldn't work on the 818 due to the center-driver location so we don't have that kind of room in the same location, but it's another idea:

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That air intake pod on the #7 next to the #17 is an interesting idea too.

[RetroRacing]

Its going to be a buy one, alter it kinda thing. Dead center, attached to the intercooler so that the rear deck will sit over it. Going to play with the height to insure clear air without affecting the flow to the rear wing. BTW, what is the overall consensus on rear wing height? we have the ability to set it at any height and are thinking just over the height of the cage to get some clear air....thoughts?

BtW, that Norma is sick in the corners!

[Mulry]

I'll see if Roland can get a scale on what he's seeing in the airflow simulations that he's playing with. From looking at how F1 and LMP bodies handle this issue rear of their safety hoop or roof, I suspect that minimizing the effect on the rear wing comes down mostly to the transition at the rear of the scoop/intake so that the air flowing past the scoop is at minimal turbulence.

I agree that wing height should probably be above the cage height to get it out of that turbulent flow -- unless we can figure out a fairing for the cage. I've been working on thinking of a way to 3D print spars for a fairing that could then be covered with CF or fiberglass (or sheet aluminum?) so that we reduce the cage as a source of drag. We really should just fair the entire thing into a connection at the body on the fenders and rear deck, but that would be a ton of complex CF molding.

[DanielsDM]

I agree that wing height should probably be above the cage height to get it out of that turbulent flow -- unless we can figure out a fairing for the cage. I've been working on thinking of a way to 3D print spars for a fairing that could then be covered with CF or fiberglass (or sheet aluminum?) so that we reduce the cage as a source of drag. We really should just fair the entire thing into a connection at the body on the fenders and rear deck, but that would be a ton of complex CF molding.

I have been thinking about building a fairing for the main hoop the same way. The one on the Norma above just tucks inside the center section of the body, doesn't really blend at all.

[RetroRacing]

472524725347254finally got the bump steer spacers in and shimmed, the splitter supports in and the brake reservoir installed. Plumbing brakes now (finally) and continueing to fight the body work.

[Rasmus]

Nice bump steer kit. You make that yourself?

I also like that brake duct work to the full rotor hat. Nice.

[RetroRacing]

THanks, and yes, kinda made it ourselves in that we ordered 2 pinto bump steer spacers, two 4.5" grade 8 bolts and 2 heim joints, then just drilled, used flat washers to shim. Just threading the 6" alum tube now for the adapter. $70 in parts.

[DanielsDM]

The radiator ducting looks good. I like it:)

[flynntuna]

Nice work. Do have pictures and measurements of the pieces that make up the radiator ducting? It does look sweet.

[RetroRacing]

We are using an aftermarket rad in a custom location, so probably no good to anyone not doing the same thing, but thanks! the real pain was the complex bends required to seal the splitter/nose/sides due to the shape of the bottom opening of the nose!

[RetroRacing]

Added the airjacks to the jack points, one on each side in the back and one in the center middle. Will update pics when done, but really happy with how they are fitting in with the rad hoses and such so far.
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[C.Plavan]

Added the airjacks to the jack points, one on each side in the back and one in the center middle. Will update pics when done, but really happy with how they are fitting in with the rad hoses and such so far.
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Very nice. You can use a 911 jack pad when you dont want to use gas. It will fit right in the tube. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODEwWDE1MDA=/z/MB4AAOxyBPZTfsUm/$_35.JPG

[RetroRacing]

Already made two of those to work with both the jack and the jack stands. Great minds and all....., but ours are yellow:cool:

[RetroRacing]

Finished connecting the rad to the engine, pretty happy with the way it worked out, maybe putting a secondary bleed in the upper rad hose, even though we have one on top of the engine (the high point in the system.)
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[tmoretta]

So that jack pad fits right into the FFR supplied frame tube? Even on an 818S?

[RetroRacing]

No, sorry, that is all custom added but would have been nice for an S. Pretty much everything we post is custom, we cut out about 25lbs in extra WTF steel (for an R) and still could have cut another 10lbs if we were to do it again. We did have to add back the jacking points and airjack mounts, but overall a big net difference.

[RetroRacing]

Front air jack is in, now just the plumbing!
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[Rasmus]

Fancy!

[Santiago]

Looks like a great build under way! Glad to see folks are doing some serious ducting on the radiator exit. I'm in for that as well and yes, a non-OEM style radiator helps a lot.

I admit that I share Mulry's concern about stacking so many heat exchangers in the same line of flow. Seems there's plenty of other places to put them on the car, so I don't know why you would want to keep them all in the same place. At any rate, if your shakedown runs prove out our concerns...I'm guessing you guys won't have trouble re-fabbing a new solution. =)

Great work!

Best,
-j

[RetroRacing]

Too cold water will be the issue. Our oil cooler is under the intercooler, and is huge (60 row) and again may run to cold. Trans cooler is behind that, and is our only concern (may need to run it up front, not the end of the world). Ill post some detailed pics and measurements. You do have to cut bigger holes I the hood, but that is no big deal.
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[Sgt.Gator]

Nice Fab job. Is that a 2.5 NA intake manifold? Any swapping issues using it?

[RetroRacing]

Thanks! Then engine is a JDM Ver3 STI RA. We sanded off all of the flaking red paint and cut off all of the unused mounts.

[RetroRacing]

477394774047741Brakes are plumbed (finally) along with an inline pressure switch for the brakes. Body on, we are at 1520lbs so far, still have to add about 100lbs. Still a little porky, but livable for now.

[FFRSpec72]

Looking good, I need to get back to my build now that travel has slowed down until the new year.

[Mitch Wright]

Very nice and looking forward to seeing your total weight. What are you using for a fuel cell?

[RetroRacing]

Custom Alum cell, 7" high by 51" long, 22" wide, with dual drybrake, surge tank and interior pumps. About 30 gallons total sitting on the "passenger" floor. Installing it on Saturday, should weigh less than 40lbs. dry of course....

[Sgt.Gator]

Are you going to dry sump it? If so, where will the DS tank go and the oil cooler?

[RetroRacing]

No dry sump, we are going with the killer bee set up and see what happens (we have a spare motor ready just in case). Oil cooler is under the intercooler in a box, it's a 60 row.....should do the trick......

[RetroRacing]

Got the fuel cell, work of art!!! fit like a glove, ready for second wall and lid, then mount the shifter on top of it. At 7" high, it mocks up nicely. Got the turbo, intercooler and BOV fully plumbed now, wish there was a better way than 10 hose clamps, but this will do for now.

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[FFRSpec72]

Got the turbo, intercooler and BOV fully plumbed now, wish there was a better way han 10 hose clamps, but this will do for now.


Now those hose camps are a work of art !

[Mulry]

Why even use a hose? Just weld the hose clamps :)

[RetroRacing]

HA! that's funny!:)

[RetroRacing]

So we LOVE the new fuel cell, perfect height, could have gone another inch longer and wider for an additional 2 gallons, but 33 should be enough for 2.5 hours (we hope). The shifter mounted solid, and I do mean SOLID, so now we can measure for cables. The second bulkhead is in for the sides, just need to make the flat top and access door on the slope up to the back, easy peezy.
Started molding the intake scoop for the intercooler, we are not running a wind shield, only a small deflector for the driver, and a flat cover back to as far as the original dash edge, maybe a bit more. Should smooth the air back into the intercooler. We will lose some downforce, but will find a way to make it up in the splitter/nose area.
Plumbing fire system this week, along with the plumbing for the air jacks. Cant' plumb the fuel cell until we get a fuel pressure regulator and the dual dry brake mounted into the fender (not fun...). Ordering the wing this week, can't wait to make the mounts, going to look awesome. We think 2" above the roll cage should get us out of the turbulent air, but I would like everyone's thoughts on that (higher/lower).

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[Mulry]

I like the scoop mockup. That's how I was thinking about doing our mockup too; gotta love Home Depot Racing Supply :)

We've been doing some rough aero modeling using a digital model my buddy bought online. I think that your scoop location will see sufficient pressure at that location. 2 inches above the roll hoop should get clean air for the wing too; shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll see if I can send you a copy of the file he recorded with the airflow in motion. I don't know what the scale is though -- I'll see if we can find a way to include that in there.

[Sgt.Gator]

Looks great!
On the wing I would go as high as the rules permit. If you fair in the top bar and the two side 45 degree bars you might be able to increase the flow to the scoop and reduce turbulence over the wing at the same time.
Which set of rules are you building to? I'd like to read them.

[RetroRacing]

There are no rules for SPM really, as you well know, just need 500 818's produced (guess I should check that....) and for NASA, we will be running ES, again, no real "build" rules other than safety, which we are kinda over the top on anyway. We are thinking about fairing in the top and side bars, but it will cause some issues in removing the rear lid (which is all one piece now). We will be installing a deflector in the intercooler intake to insure the air travels through the front and rear of the intercooler instead of packing through the back of the cooler only.

Mulry, Ill send you a PM, would love to see the model.

[Zach34]

What wheels are those? Looks great!

[RetroRacing]

xxr 551. a bit heavy, but affordable and strong. We race the 527's on our GT car, never had an issue.

[RetroRacing]

Fire system is in and fully plumbed, decided to go with one in the foot well, one in the fuel cell area and two toward the engine. Shortened the shifter, mounted the throttle cable, seat and belts. Installing the dual dry brake and plumbing that to the cell next, then connecting the fuel rails to the cell (regulator, blah, blah)

Brake ducts will be the death of me. Settled on using naca ducts on the bottom of the splitter but not over the moon about it, will post picks for comments. The "hump" is almost done mock up, fiber glassing the mold this weekend (its called the "Hump" for two reasons, one- its a hump....two- you should see Mack sanding it from the rear of the car!)

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[Mulry]

There was a Factory Five GTM that was racing at the 25 Hours last weekend, here's how they handle their front brake duct issue, I think those might be classic NASCAR bilge blowers that they use, but it could just be white PVC that they can strap down and use to connect to the brake duct hose (but then why the electrical connection?).

Just for some context, they had the entire front of their car off to make some adjustments nearing the lunch hour on Friday, so this shows the air input area above the front splitter and below the radiator, I'm assuming they have the radiator ducted to force the heat out the top but you can't see that in this photo:

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[RetroRacing]

Yes, those are nascar bilge-brake blowers, but we don't want either the current draw or the issue of taping the front of the car off for water temp/aero modification effecting our brake ducts. The issue we are trying to deal with is the upturn on the splitter on both sides (and aero mod) and the fact that we are flat bottoming the whole car. Either we cut and repair the splitter to get rid of it, or we use it for brake duct. just leaving it leaves us with a 2"x8" flat vertical on each side once the splitter is married to the flat bottom.

[Sgt.Gator]

Brake ducts will be the death of me. Settled on using naca ducts on the bottom of the splitter but not over the moon about it, will post picks for comments.

That's how my factory Corvette Z06 draws in the air for the front brake ducts. Works well as along as the duct inlet is in the high pressure zone.

[RetroRacing]

I love carbon fiber!
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[RetroRacing]

Hump mold is finally done, bump steer finally done, air intake mocked up.

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[Mulry]

Looking good. I was reading this article on Jalopnik yesterday about the WSC-95 that TWR and Porsche put together and the fairing on their open-top coupe versus the tube-frame mule looks a lot like what we should maybe be thinking about figuring out for the 818R. Scroll _way_ down in the article and have a look at the #7 and #35 cars after they put the Porsche motor into it:

http://blackflag.jalopnik.com/the-strange-orphan-story-of-the-most-successful-le-mans-1677120408

[RetroRacing]

Got the dual dry brake installed, now just have to do some work on the tower to vent from the dual probe vs the single we run not, again that stuff is easy.
Goal now is to pull a hump out or our new mold and get the mounting figured out. I need to step away from the project for a bit, so it's going to go on hold for a few weeks while things get sorted. 48802

[Mulry]

Looks great! Why did you mount it there versus on the passenger door, just easier to route the fill and vent tubes?

I'd love to run dry breaks on the fuel. I'd not love to pay for the hardware though :)

[RetroRacing]

Easier to mount a solid thing to and we don't have to remove any part of it to strip the body, and all flexible connections are out of the cockpit behind double bulkheads. Yes, at $1400 for just the connections it's a bit pricey, add another $2k for the 36 gallon tower, but you save allot of time in the pits, and it's safer than dump cans.

[Mulry]

I totally agree with the utility argument. We won't be able to use it in our intended class for our car starting off (NASA ST3/E0) but when we upgrade the engine after getting familiar with the car for the first year, we will probably need to upgrade the fuel delivery system too. If you don't mind sharing, which vendor do you use for this stuff? I found a couple at PRI but I wasn't blown away by their helpfulness (or lack thereof).

[RetroRacing]

Seller info
HUNSAKER INDUSTRIES USA INC.(805) 650-2525HUNSAKERUSA@GMAIL.COM

Redhead Male Double Dry Break Valve: w/ 100mm Center, 2.5 Probe, 2.25 Hose Barb, 2.0 I.D. Bore
$669.95
Item #14303385

Redhead Female Double Dry Break Valve: w/ 100mm Center, 2.5 Receiver, 2.25 Aluminum Bulb
$669.95
Item #14303383

Fuel Cell
www.bits-pieces.com
Monty 360-859-3595 He has the all of what you need to get what we have (33 gallons, 7" high in the passenger floor)

[RetroRacing]

Air jacks plumbed and shifter mounted. Now we can measure for the cables...finally.

4922449225

[RetroRacing]

The HUMP is done! Still need to install the ducts for airflow around the engine, but the deflector to move air through the front as well as the back of the intercooler is in. Cut the bolts to fit, finish the body work and vinyl it up!

49448494494945049451

[FFRSpec72]

The HUMP is done! Still need to install the ducts for airflow around the engine, but the deflector to move air through the front as well as the back of the intercooler is in. Cut the bolts to fit, finish the body work and vinyl it up!

49448494494945049451

Nice, would like to see how that effects the negative pressure out the rear.

[Mulry]

Looks great. Did it lead to this?

https://youtu.be/y38Ec57yMG8

[RetroRacing]

Hell ya! I'm the nose and glasses guy....no...really!

[Scargo]

5lb alternator mocked up and ready for install on the car, 4542245423 Nice! I have my baby alternator too, but I'm going to mount it to the side so I can reverse my intake.
Just started paying attention to the build. Nice. Now I have to do some reading and catch-up. Might have been the 60K comment that really caught my attention.

[Scargo]

What kind of power to weight ratio do you need to have to be at all competitive in ES? I see you mentioned 300 in a post, so that's not getting close to 5:1. 350-370 WHP on pump gas is not unreasonable in a Subie motor done right and do 8500 RPM . I'm building a destroker motor for mine. I can't imagine you doing ES without a dry sump. I guess I see the reason for the big AWIC now. You never contemplated using the JDM six-speed instead of the RA box?

[RetroRacing]

Yes, it's been a ride...and continues to be. We are shooting for 325hp at 104 octane, 1750 lbs. That puts us in at about 5.3 power to weight, came in third overall in a Caterham with a similar power to weight a few years ago. Using a JDM Version 5 STI RA engine that has an 8250 rpm limit on 100 octane, we won't be reving that high, but it's made to do it in a 3500lb car. We gave up the 6 speed idea because of the weight and number of shifts (add 2 up shifts, 2 downshifts per lap and you add 2400 shifts to the race.)
This race is about staying on the track and being fast in the corners, not about top speed in the straights (second place car never saw over 135 down the straight). Lightweight with torque, easy on the brakes, big fuel cell and quick pit stops. That's our strategy.

WING IS HERE!!!!!

[RetroRacing]

Finally got to finish the exhaust! Just need to wrap it and put in the muffler support.

499354993649937

[RetroRacing]

Here are some pics of the side/rear body mods. The trunk-valance is one piece now and installs easy, allowing access to the full engine bay, all of the cage gaps are filled and the body lines on top of the rear fenders has been smoothed out.

499384993949940

[Sgt.Gator]

Earlier you had the engine air intake in the passenger side headrest hump, but in these pics you've blocked that off?
BTW, great pics, very inspiring. I can't wait to see your car on the track. When/where do you expect the first test & tune?

[Pearldrummer7]

Retro, you're giving me a lot of confidence in the AAIC. I wonder how big of an aero hit this is to things like the wing (I've read the turbulence coming off of the deck lid is some of the most important)

[RetroRacing]

THanks guys, we will be installing the air intake in the passenger hump, just finishing up some detail prior to the final mount location. We are installing the wing this weekend, at least 3" over top of the top hump, and, we are not running a windshield but are installing a trick aero deflector in front of the driver only. The hood will be "extended" almost to the steering wheel. Still working on getting things ready to test in March

[RetroRacing]

More pics, brake duct install and the No Play shifter is installed with the long cables for mock up. Hopefully, we will get it shifting tonight so that we can confirm cable length. still a little clean up to do on the duct opening, but you get the gist.
50049500505005150052

[Mulry]

I like the brake duct work. Smart placement, we'll copy that. But it looks like we're all suckers for not going to paddle shifters. This guy has figured out how to do it without using a sequential transmission. Seems like it could work on the 818 too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPRZ0MhzCuc

[Sgt.Gator]

I like the brake duct work. Smart placement, we'll copy that. But it looks like we're all suckers for not going to paddle shifters. This guy has figured out how to do it without using a sequential transmission. Seems like it could work on the 818 too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPRZ0MhzCuc

Two companies do it for the Corvette H pattern T56 tranny. But you have to do a dog ring conversion first, which I'm sure the one in you link has done too. Here's one:

https://youtu.be/XviGi4u0eTA

[Sgt.Gator]

More pics, brake duct install and the No Play shifter is installed with the long cables for mock up. Hopefully, we will get it shifting tonight so that we can confirm cable length. still a little clean up to do on the duct opening, but you get the gist.
50049500505005150052

Is the front half of the NACA duct blocked off? The NACA won't work correctly that way.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50050&d=1453837417

[Mulry]

VAC Motorsport was showing a sequential dog box for the Subaru EJ2x motors at PRI in December, but it was $15k and that's not with the paddle shift setup. I'd have to think that doing a dogbox conversion and some form of this setup would have to be more affordable. But who knows.

[Sgt.Gator]

Should probably move this to the tranny thread but:
Here you go:
http://www.sssdrive.com/subaru_eng.php

They used to make a full sequential dog box but apparently that has gone away.

[RetroRacing]

Is the front half of the NACA duct blocked off? The NACA won't work correctly that way.

Part of the clean up that needs to be done. we also have not "flattened" the underside of the splitter yet to get rid of the Lip on the front of it....so much to do, so little time....

[Mulry]

Is the front half of the NACA duct blocked off? The NACA won't work correctly that way.

Part of the clean up that needs to be done. we also have not "flattened" the underside of the splitter yet to get rid of the Lip on the front of it....so much to do, so little time....

When's your first outing? I'm living vicariously through you until this Lemons car build is done. Can't wait to get back on the 818, even as much of a PITA as that can be sometimes.

[RetroRacing]

Still hoping for late march. depends on the tuner, and me finishing the wiring. Still need another 10k to finish, but that's another story......

[Sgt.Gator]

When's your first outing? I'm living vicariously through you until this Lemons car build is done. Can't wait to get back on the 818, even as much of a PITA as that can be sometimes.

Me too! If your intercooler solution works I'll probably be back in the 818R game. I really want a Subaru mid-engine car to be successful for a lot of reasons. I've looked at the NP01, Superlite Aero, and Radical SR8 but the ICSCC class to race them in the Pacific NW is tiny. At least the one I can figure out. We don't have NASA up here (as RR well knows!). The Radical SR3 does have class in SCCA events, so that's a possibility. I'd still rather go FF 818R - Subaru FTW!

[RetroRacing]

So after a week away, I can finally post our shifter solution. We are using an RSX race shifter, that is reversed, so the bell crank had to be redesigned. Still have to adjust the cable to place the shifter where we want, but the feel is pretty good.
The floor is getting there, will post pics soon, but really happy so far with the angle of the floor rear of the engine and the diffuser.

5093250933

[FFRSpec72]

So after a week away, I can finally post our shifter solution. We are using an RSX race shifter, that is reversed, so the bell crank had to be redesigned. Still have to adjust the cable to place the shifter where we want, but the feel is pretty good.
The floor is getting there, will post pics soon, but really happy so far with the angle of the floor rear of the engine and the diffuser.

5093250933

Are you using the FFR rear diffuser ? Are you adding under the engine aluminum to transmission to the diffuser ?

[Mulry]

I like the use of the p-clips for the fire system tubing. That's a clean installation. Assume the fire bottle is in the battery tray location?

[RetroRacing]

Are you using the FFR rear diffuser ? Are you adding under the engine aluminum to transmission to the diffuser ? Yes, we are, just adding a few strakes to it. We are flat bottoming the whole car, with a drop down under the engine. we are moving the diffuser back about 5" (to react better with the wing) and are starting the diffuser angle just rear of the oil pan. The panel under the engine will be removable for oil changes, trans oil is changed using the trans pump. Pics to come soon.

Assume the fire bottle is in the battery tray location? Yes, it is. Fits perfectly! Now, just have to add the pull's.

Finally going to pic up the wing mounts today!!!

[RetroRacing]

Wing is on!!
510265102751028

[Mulry]

Love it. Couple questions:

1. Which wing did you go with? Adjustable gurney?
2. Looks like you glassed in the rear fender top air intake vents -- just to clean up the airflow up there?
3. Which spray head are you using on that fire system standpipe (for lack of a better term)? The brass one. I'm guessing it's a 180 degree spray head? I've never seen one like that, just the red ones that spray straight out.
4. Where is your turbo air intake? Are you sucking that off the center scoop before air entry to the intercooler?

Cheers. I promise someday I'll have more to contribute to this conversation than more questions. The Lemons car is built but I have to finish a furniture project for my bride before I'm permitted to start working on the 818 again. That is, if I want to continue to enjoy connubial bliss, etc. :)

[redfogo]

Where did you get the wing mounts? I have been looking for a source to get just the mounts for a 944 I have as a side project?

[Mulry]

Where did you get the wing mounts? I have been looking for a source to get just the mounts for a 944 I have as a side project?

IIRC they were custom designed and I'm guessing either waterjet or laser cut.

[RetroRacing]

1. Which wing did you go with? Adjustable gurney?
2. Looks like you glassed in the rear fender top air intake vents -- just to clean up the airflow up there? Yes, mostly to make it easy to remove the rear deck lid, they are now part of the fender
3. Which spray head are you using on that fire system standpipe (for lack of a better term)? The brass one. I'm guessing it's a 180 degree spray head? I've never seen one like that, just the red ones that spray straight out. OMP
4. Where is your turbo air intake? Are you sucking that off the center scoop before air entry to the intercooler? We will be installing the intake when it comes in, mushroom filter out of the passenger hump for ram air effect.

Wing mounts are custom, water jet, $300 for the set (cnd)

[RetroRacing]

and we wanted the adjustable gurney, but they sent me the fixed....sad but not going to matter in the long run, I'm not that good.

We will be hanging a weight off of the wing supports once we have it back on the scales, to check out mechanical advantage of the wing placement, should be interesting.

[Mulry]

Cool. I've been designing my air intake in my head ever since going to PRI last December, but I haven't come up with a final design yet. Look forward to seeing how you implement it since you will clearly be ahead of me on that :)

[RetroRacing]

like this but on the right side

51030

[Mulry]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking of too. But where does the filter go? Just use something like this before the MAF?

http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-9833-Inline-Body/dp/B005N6WXYM

[RetroRacing]

Yes, 180 degree, then a 90 to the panel, then a 3" velocity stack mounted to the hump panel.

[RetroRacing]

Transmission cooler and pump installed, exhaust support completed, new airjacks installed. Not bad for one night...and...finish fit the front undertray between the splitter and the bulkhead. Have some work to do on the splitter before final mounting.
51045510465104751048

[Hindsight]

Nice welds.... especially on the aluminum. What kind of TIG are you running?

[FFRSpec72]

Transmission cooler and pump installed, exhaust support completed, new airjacks installed. Not bad for one night...and...finish fit the front undertray between the splitter and the bulkhead. Have some work to do on the splitter before final mounting.
51045510465104751048

So what did you do to fill the gap between splitter and battery tray area ?

[RetroRacing]

We use a small miller unit, will send specs this weekend. For the front undertray, we made an alum piece, pics this weekend once we get it mounted. Should also have the drop down in, and maybe the diffuser.

[RetroRacing]

Miller diversion 180 for tig

[Hindsight]

Nice, I would love a Miller.

[RetroRacing]

Here is the bottom almost done. Should have the diffuser done this weekend. Anyone looking for the stock one, we now have a spare....
Still have one rear plate to install, and we need to install the wear plates on the corner of the splitter, and, cut off the front "curl" to eliminate the drag in that design. Once done, we are completely flat from front to rear, with tunnels to speed up the air around the center drop (there to protect the pan and header). The diffuser is now 12" longer in the center to slow the really fast moving air under the drop. Would love for someone to model it for us.....

51175511765117751178

[RetroRacing]

Splitter fixed, added 1/4" of CF with graphite mixed into the epoxy, reshaped the bottom to move air where we want it. Undertray is installed, tunnels down the sides are complete as is most of the diffuser. Still need the center u shaped element to complete the middle 3 chambers, but we were successful in blocking the air spill from the tires by extending the outside strakes to in front of the contact patch. will fasten the front elements on Wednesday to complete the floor! Finally....

Primer on Easter!!!

513695137051371

[FFRSpec72]

Looks great, nice work on the underneath aero looks like nice smooth airflow will be produced. The rear diffuser is going to be interesting with the rear wing mounts. I gather you dropped the under engine aluminum down to cover the oil pan?

[Flamshackle]

amazing work. cant wait to see how this car moves on the track!

[RetroRacing]

Paddle shift in the Saker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjK8T_X4EqA&feature=youtu.be

[FFRSpec72]

Paddle shift in the Saker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjK8T_X4EqA&feature=youtu.be

Nice now add that setup to the 818

[RetroRacing]

sure, with an additional $20k!

[longislandwrx]

where are you located? looks great. I'd love to see this thing in person.

[RetroRacing]

Vancouver BC. I will post pics of the electric power steering as well as the shifter setup. It is no lift shift as well.

[RetroRacing]

Here are some pictures of the paddle shift that they put into the Saker. 5159551596515975159851599

[RetroRacing]

primed and ready for wrap
52128

[FFRSpec72]

primed and ready for wrap
52128

Very nice ! Moving right along ! I should be able to drop mine off for you to prime and get ready for paint in a week or so !

[flynntuna]

Will you be wrapping the individual panels then assembling or assembling then wrapping?

[RetroRacing]

Very nice ! Moving right along ! I should be able to drop mine off for you to prime and get ready for paint in a week or so !
Bring it all up one sunny Saturday and your on! All it costs is beer and materials, which on this car, worked out to about a gallon of epoxy primer for the inside and outside of all the panels. Only takes us about an hour to shoot everything, and two hours to wipe/clean all of the parts prior to.

Yes, we are going to wrap each panel before install, just bought a s#!t ton of matte metallic 3M vinyl so that we can start on Saturday.

[07FIREBLADE]

So pretty. What color are you going?

[metros]

Actually looks pretty cool as is. Did you use any filler prior to primer?

[RetroRacing]

No filler primer, just a boat load of filling and sanding on the rear fender mods and the rear cover. We sanded everything to 220 then shot epoxy primer/sealer on everything. We are tempted to stay black like on all of our other cars, but my wife just made it through some wicked breast cancer treatment and our suby guy wants blue, so it's Matte Metalic blue with pink accents. 52152

[FFRSpec72]

No filler primer, just a boat load of filling and sanding on the rear fender mods and the rear cover. We sanded everything to 220 then shot epoxy primer/sealer on everything. We are tempted to stay black like on all of our other cars, but my wife just made it through some wicked breast cancer treatment and our suby guy wants blue, so it's Matte Metalic blue with pink accents. 52152

Should look stunning in the sun as you pass me !

[RetroRacing]

been awhile, we are starting the wiring and finish mounting panels, filling in missed gaps and items. Here is the grill and front end almost done....
5337353374

We decided to support the canards in a way that would allow us to add some if we need to. Still have to wrap most of it, really happy with the grill and how solid everything is, even without the fenders!

[C.Plavan]

been awhile, we are starting the wiring and finish mounting panels, filling in missed gaps and items. Here is the grill and front end almost done....
5337353374

We decided to support the canards in a way that would allow us to add some if we need to. Still have to wrap most of it, really happy with the grill and how solid everything is, even without the fenders!

You might want to change the front mini qwik latches. I almost lost a hood at WS at 135MPH. One popped off because of the pressure- Scary event because I could of been whacked in the head with the hood. That was my first event. I did perform a gnarly braking test once it popped off. :) I replaced with good old trusty hood pins. I kept the rear mini qwik latches- those worked fine.

[RetroRacing]

THanks! We were thinking maybe......

[07FIREBLADE]

Same problem but mine was on the toll road one late night early morning. Replaced my front with Zero decibels front hood hinge and kept the back mini latches. Loving the color combo. Keep it up.

[Sgt.Gator]

+1 on the look!
Can you use Aero Catches instead? That would keep the smooth look but be a positive lock.

53394

http://www.amazon.com/AeroCatch-Plus-Flush-Hood-Latch/dp/B0026I5Z22/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51maFGflIyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Z3XFW9GTR7P4XXZ0HR3

[RetroRacing]

We usually do use aero latch, was just trying something new, looks like we need to take a look at that.

[Harley818]

Who are you going to get to tune the car?

I had Rocket Rally lined up till they decided to focus on rally cars.
Looking for a dependable tuner in the Vancouver area.

[RetroRacing]

Rocket did the Saker, hope that door isn't closed. We do have a Racepak dealer that is installing the ecu, will send you his info

[RetroRacing]

Door skins and crash foam installed. almost have the dash done and the front cover installed (pics to follow). Made and mounted the battery box (sounds easy.....not) and electrical panel. We are running 2 main relays so that we can use a toggle switch as the kill, pics to follow.....
53888

[Sgt.Gator]

I was hoping you could make it to Pacific Raceways this weekend. Will you be at Spokane June 17-19? I can't make the June 3-5 PIR race weekend.

[RetroRacing]

Still shooting for Spokane.

[Sgt.Gator]

Still shooting for Spokane.

I blew my engine at Pacific. (The second year in a row). A fellow racer who has wanted my car for years came over and made me an offer to take the car as is. I accepted it so now I'm in the market for 818R. As we've discussed in other threads I think I'm going for a lightweight NA build in NASA ST3. This is a long way of saying I hope to be at Spokane with a new car, (not likely) but if not I'd still like to come up and crew on your team for the weekend.

[Mulry]

I blew my engine at Pacific. (The second year in a row). A fellow racer who has wanted my car for years came over and made me an offer to take the car as is. I accepted it so now I'm in the market for 818R. As we've discussed in other threads I think I'm going for a lightweight NA build in NASA ST3. This is a long way of saying I hope to be at Spokane with a new car, (not likely) but if not I'd still like to come up and crew on your team for the weekend.

Dude, that sucks. My condolences. Are you going to try to do a post-mortem before you sell it?

[RetroRacing]

Would love to have you!!

Here is what we got done this week. Windscreen delete is in and wrapped, still working on the passenger side cover. Got the dash 99%, main relays in (so we can use a toggle switch main), battery box made and installed, as well as some wrapping on the doors, some electrical, just overall detail stuff.
5402154022540235402454025

[Scargo]

I'm liking what you've done and where this is going. Keep feeding us.

[Mulry]

I like the windscreen delete idea. CF?

[RetroRacing]

Yes, 1/8" plywood core, triangle foam stiffiners

[Sgt.Gator]

Dude, that sucks. My condolences. Are you going to try to do a post-mortem before you sell it?

The car is already sold but he's going to tell me what went wrong. I have a strong suspicion though. When I tried to start it back in my paddock space my wife said "It sounds like you have rocks in the engine". Indeed it did! When I got closer about half the sound was coming up thru the intake manifold. It sounded nothing like a spun bearing. But the other oddness was half the sound appeared to be inside the plastic timing covers, like things were banging around and slapping against the timing covers. All of which leads me to think the timing belt broke (not likely, new Gates Racing belt) or one of the timing bits unscrewed and fell off. Then the belt skipped at 5,500 rpm and 120 mph, bending all the valves when they crashed into the pistons.

Gates has a specific advisory that this can happen if you don't use Loctite on the tensioner bolt, they even include Loctite in the kits now.
I have a suspicion that the shop may have just torqued the bolt in without the Loctite. It wouldn't surprise me, the tech is a factory Subaru tech and in the FSM they don't mention using Loctite on the tensioner bolt, so if he was following the FSM he wouldn't have known.

See: https://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/automotive/resources/tech-tips-and-tsbs/subaru_loctite.pdf

There's lots more info in the bulletin about doing your timing belt replacement but here is the relevant part to this discussion:

"Once the tensioner bracket is carefully inspected, the hydraulic timing belt tensioner may be installed. It is essential for the pivot bolt as well as the bracket threads to be CLEAN & DRY before continuing! Proceed by applying several drops of Loctite® 243™ Medium Strength Threadlocker to the first few threads of the tensioner pivot bolt and immediately install the bolt by hand."

A lesson for us all. Personally I used Loctitie on all the timing parts bolts when I rebuilt my Spec B myself last winter. Not just the tensioner but all the idlers and bracket bolts too.

[Mulry]

That's a lot like what is sounded like when we dropped a valve on the MR2 in a race. The intake manifold sounded like a wind chime if you shook it after we disassembled it from the motor. Good tip on the loctite, thanks.

[RetroRacing]

So, we are getting some stuff done, really into my vinyl right now, getting ready to tackle the more difficult parts later in the week. It is a two, sometimes three person operation, Chris and are really learning allot about it. One thing, NEVER buy wrap from China!! Stick with 3M or Avery or you will hate yourself, the person beside you, the car, your wife and your dog.
Now, some pics of the airbox and intake, as well as our completed hump for the A2A intercooler. We did get the passenger side cover done and covered (no pic cause I'm an idiot), the rear view screen I mounted and a bunch of wires are hooked up. We had to make splitter supports because they are so short, you can't buy them and the left hand tap was cheap. we have to wait to install the canards and canard supports until we finish fitting the lights...for the umpteenth time (they really need to do better, it should not be this difficult!) and the light shields.
54434544355443654437

[johngeorge]

I had a problem in the 818r reaching the switches as the dash was so far away when I strapped into the seat, I had to finger tip and stretch just to flip the power button on. Also in the 25hr car we put in a light to illuminate the switches. It is really really dark at the 25hr! Nice to see switches. With that in mind put some reflective tape on the outside just so others can see you (we wrapped some of the roll bars with reflective trailer tape)

Build looks fantastic! Keep up the great work

[RetroRacing]

Yup, know all about the darkness at the 25, even in the caterham, struggled to see what I was flipping. our switches are lit, and we are putting some red led lighting on the front cover (pics to follow) for just that reason. I like the reflective on the cage idea, we want to protect the cage anyway, so some white reflective tape may be just the thing.

[Sgt.Gator]

I can't wait to see it in Spokane!

[FFRSpec72]

So, we are getting some stuff done, really into my vinyl right now, getting ready to tackle the more difficult parts later in the week. It is a two, sometimes three person operation, Chris and are really learning allot about it. One thing, NEVER buy wrap from China!! Stick with 3M or Avery or you will hate yourself, the person beside you, the car, your wife and your dog.
Now, some pics of the airbox and intake, as well as our completed hump for the A2A intercooler. We did get the passenger side cover done and covered (no pic cause I'm an idiot), the rear view screen I mounted and a bunch of wires are hooked up. We had to make splitter supports because they are so short, you can't buy them and the left hand tap was cheap. we have to wait to install the canards and canard supports until we finish fitting the lights...for the umpteenth time (they really need to do better, it should not be this difficult!) and the light shields.
54434544355443654437

Canard supports ? So you think they will be needed ?

[RetroRacing]

5447654477

Wait to see....we are also trying to keep the vortices along the side of the car.
Go the IQ3 mounted last night, hope to get the deflector mounted onto the dash cover tonight for a better pic of what we are trying to do.

[Mitch Wright]

Looks great

[RetroRacing]

Well, we missed yet another deadline, so no Spokane for us. We are really getting close, but the details are killing productivity and we refuse to rush it at this point. Here is how she looks today, we are solid up to the front bulkhead.
54662546635466454665546665466754668

[FFRSpec72]

Looking good !!!! I just got back from 100 degree day of racing in Spokane, not fun, they have made track improvements, not many but its getting better. I don't see a test & tune day either and I'm not going to try to race the car w/o some shakedown.

I like the idea of the plate on top of the air tunnel going to radiator as mine is open there and that may force more air in radiator.

I still have a target of Spokane but since no test and tune that is out

[metros]

Really cool stuff you're incorporating into this build. Can't wait to see some track video.

[Zach34]

Where did you get that expanded sheet metal material for the front grill? Looks awesome!

[RetroRacing]

The plate on top serves multiple functions, holds the hood down both with the fasteners and by the hood having to slide into place, the front lip of the hood is under the plate. it also makes the air travel through the rad, without pushing up on the hood first and going over the rad. It will also mount the flasher unit for the passing lights.
the grill material is plastic and very easy to work with. We mounted it backside of the front bar with insert nuts, and to the top plate....add that to the multi use of the top plate.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331531229653?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[metros]

I like that, just wish it were aluminum.

[Lumpyguy]

what is your lower splitter made of? I see the factory five splitter and then another one below it. wrapped aluminum?

[RetroRacing]

Yes, 3/16" and about 3" protruding with 4" of support behind, just in case we need to mow the lawn.

[RetroRacing]

We also flat bottomed the ffr splitter with ply and Carbon fiber.

[Hindsight]

Why does the FFR splitter have that upward bend in it anyway? Does anyone know?

[RetroRacing]

You can make it thin and still have some edge rigidity with the up/down turn. One issue is the vortex created on the back side of the front downturn creating drag and disturbing the flow under the car. It will also not wear well at all, and is a bit thin for mounting in my opinion. It looks to me like more of a poser piece than a serious aero piece, just my opinion though.

[RetroRacing]

552745527555279Only a few more vinyl pieces to install and we are done with the body!!!!! Here is a preview of the rear of the car.

[STiPWRD]

Any tips for applying the wrap or any problem spots? Were the side sails the most difficult pieces to wrap? I've also been considering doing the vinyl wrap myself but I don't have any experience with it. It just seems very cost effective. Any suggestion on how much of it I should buy? I was thinking maybe a 70ft roll.

By the way I'm really enjoying your build.

[RetroRacing]

We had no experience when we started either, so it's been a fun process. I will put together some points and post for you, but let me tell you this, we have painted 6-7 cars ourselves to both a "race car" standard and street car (better than factory) standard and NO paint job is cheaper, easier or less hassle than vinyl! Points to follow

[RetroRacing]

Vinyl point of fun and interest:
1. NEVER buy cheap vinyl, it does not work! Use only 3M or Avery
2. Watch at least 3 hours of YouTube video showing different installations, not rookies, but actual professionals. It will make your install a s#$t ton easier.
3. The most difficult part of the 818 to vinyl is the rear piece and fenders. The trunk lid and humps are the most straight forward, so start there.
4. It is way easier to install the vinyl when the body pieces are on the car, you have to pull the vinyl allot so the more solid the mount the better.
5. This is never a one man job! The more directions that you can pull the vinyl the better.
6. Vinyl stretches allot, especially when heated. Be very careful with mettalics, the color will change if you over stretch it.
7. Prep the car with a really good degreaser, like a final wipe before paint.
8. Never use water under the vinyl to move it around, it’s not that kind of vinyl.
9. Have lots of craft knives, or razor blades handy, and buy the best application tools (felt cover any rubber edged smoothing tools)
10. You will need about 100’ of vinyl for the whole car, there is allot of waist inherent in the design.
11. Don’t be afraid to lift and reposition, it’s meant to do that.
12. The smoother you can get the vinyl prior to heat, the better the finish
13. We use a hairdryer, but you can use a heat gun, just be careful with the heat while you are pulling, it happens really fast!

[STiPWRD]

Outstanding! Thanks for the advice. I was considering a metallic also, so I'll have to reconsider that.

[Sgt.Gator]

OMG the wing! You'll be doing wheelies at 100 mph!

[Scargo]

Sgt. Gator, you just have wing envy! Looking great guys!

[FFRSpec72]

552745527555279Only a few more vinyl pieces to install and we are done with the body!!!!! Here is a preview of the rear of the car.

You are going to have to put one of those Home Depot/Lowes flags on the back with the wing and diffuser sticking out ! The PRO3 cars will see that as a target. Looking good guys !

[Bob_n_Cincy]

OMG the wing! You'll be doing wheelies at 100 mph!

I don't know if you were serious Gator. But I agree. The front end is pretty light. The downforce and drag of the wing will both act together to raise the nose.
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

I don't know if you were serious Gator. But I agree. The front end is pretty light. The downforce and drag of the wing will both act together to raise the nose.
Bob

@ 1799 my car is only 2% heaver in front, I expect the splitter and win to counter balance as I can adjust the wing.

[Hindsight]

Out-standing!

Get that thing on the track and post up some videos of all the cars you pass with it. Can't wait. A good crop of R's are nearing completion.

[RetroRacing]

With the tunnel under tray, large diffuser, extended splitter and canards, we are hoping to only run 5 degrees on the wing (as we are mounted so far back from the rear wheels). We got some wiring done (the flashing unit is awesome!), radio installed and some other minor details done this weekend. We hope to have the whole car together for pics this weekend before we strip it to go to the dyno to get the engine wired on the 14th.

[Harley818]

Looking awesome. Nice finish detailing.
Love to come check it out.
sent you a PM.

[RetroRacing]

pm'd back, hope to see you this weekend.

[Sgt.Gator]

Will you be bringing it to the ICSCC race at Mission July 8-9-10? If so I'll come up to crew. My STI blew it's motor at Spokane so I'm back to building a new one but I'll come to crew if you're still on track for the Thill25 in December.

[RetroRacing]

We won't test at mission, the penalty is to great if something goes wrong. First outing will be end of july, ridge or PIR. I will keep you updated, and yes, we are still going to the 25, put all other racing on hold for testing this beast.

[Sgt.Gator]

We won't test at mission, the penalty is to great if something goes wrong. First outing will be end of july, ridge or PIR. I will keep you updated, and yes, we are still going to the 25, put all other racing on hold for testing this beast.

Your always invited to come to ORP for a club track day. 8 hours of open track, just drive on and off when you want. I may be able to get you a garage there to work in too. The Club Days are on this calendar: http://oregonraceway.com/scheduling-calendar-2/

[RetroRacing]

That sound promising...Here are some pics we took after the first alignment. we have 2.27 rear camber, 3 front camber and 4.5 castor. Need to strip the car for the dyno next week after we get a final scale session done.
556895569055691

[Mitch Wright]

Car looks great guys.

[07FIREBLADE]

I was looking through your thread and didn't see any photos of the electric power steering setup. Did you make one for the 818 that you would like to share with the class?

[RetroRacing]

Not yet, but probably soon. It's pretty easy with off the shelf parts, but I do have pics of the one in the Saker if you are interested.

[07FIREBLADE]

Yes please, its on my to do list. What off the shelf parts are you looking to use?

[Frank818]

Oh my that looks FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!
Same blue as I have, using wrap. The finish looks... droooooooooooool. And the rear, the cut between black and blue, thank you for the idea!!!

[RetroRacing]

Like this, or you can source each item (using a unit from a Saturn)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapting-Electric-Power-Steering-Kit-For-Sandrails-Dune-Buggies-UTV-Side-x-Side-/111831765205?hash=item1a09b150d5:g:rr8AAOSwGIRXYuj 6&vxp=mtr
5607556076

[07FIREBLADE]

Ok. I was looking at sourcing the Saturn unit and using the controller off of that one eBay seller. I was just wonder if you pioneered further and got anything done yet.

[RetroRacing]

Not yet, we want to maker sure that we don't need a quickener first.

[07FIREBLADE]

Got ya. A quickened might be nice but having a electric assist while not on the track or pits.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Take a look at Mitch driving this lap in our car. I don't think you are going to need a steering quickener.
Bob


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxbXW_77muc

[07FIREBLADE]

What ratio rack are you guys using?

[RetroRacing]

It's Alive!!!!
After some issues with our wiring, and a bad transfer pump in the fuel cell, it started right up and spent a few hours on the dyno checking things out and thrashing the engine. Ended up with a very conservative 275 at the wheels at only 16lbs of boost (stock is 17lbs on this motor). We will retune once we have some 100 in the tank, and have all of the soon to be found handling bugs out of the car. I will update you all once we have the car aligned and the body work back on, with some sound and video.

Looks like we will have her ready for Portland on the 20th.

[Mitch Wright]

Fantastic, looking forward to a track report.

[Sgt.Gator]

It's Alive!!!!
After some issues with our wiring, and a bad transfer pump in the fuel cell, it started right up and spent a few hours on the dyno checking things out and thrashing the engine. Ended up with a very conservative 275 at the wheels at only 16lbs of boost (stock is 17lbs on this motor). We will retune once we have some 100 in the tank, and have all of the soon to be found handling bugs out of the car. I will update you all once we have the car aligned and the body work back on, with some sound and video.

Looks like we will have her ready for Portland on the 20th.

I'll be there! My STI may not be running by then but I'll come up anyway. Will you be doing the Test & Tune on Friday?

[Hindsight]

Wow very cool! Congrats on getting it running and ready. I'll be in Bend visiting family in August and would love to see your first track session but looks like I will miss it by a week unfortunately. I hope it goes well. Make sure you take some video!

[FFRSpec72]

I'll be there! My STI may not be running by then but I'll come up anyway. Will you be doing the Test & Tune on Friday?

I will do test/tune on Friday and if the car makes it I will run group 4 in ITE

[RetroRacing]

Oh yes, we will be there for the test and tune, im also looking into if there is a proformance type day on Thursday. We want to put as many hours on the car as possible so that we can dial in the handling.

[FFRSpec72]

Oh yes, we will be there for the test and tune, im also looking into if there is a proformance type day on Thursday. We want to put as many hours on the car as possible so that we can dial in the handling.

I'm signed up for test/tune on Friday and if the car makes it and is race capable I will run group 4 (as there are fewer BMWs in group 4 than group 1), may need some help from you all !

[Mitch Wright]

Great news and good luck.

[RetroRacing]

We have most of the car back together now, needs a few more days on details and a brake pad install. What class in group 4, we may join you.

We only have two cars coming down, what to hang with us? We will be parking the 48 down by the power poles and have room for 4 cars (we always install 4 tents) so it's a ready set up with compressed air, power, etc.

[FFRSpec72]

We have most of the car back together now, needs a few more days on details and a brake pad install. What class in group 4, we may join you.

We only have two cars coming down, what to hang with us? We will be parking the 48 down by the power poles and have room for 4 cars (we always install 4 tents) so it's a ready set up with compressed air, power, etc.

I will run ITE since ST does not allow tube frames (yet!), I just need to stay in front of the E46 cars, so you will be down near the toilets/cross over bridge ?

[Sgt.Gator]

ORP has club track days Monday and Tuesday that week if you want an unlimited 7 hours of track time. And I'll be at PIR with you Friday-Sunday but without a race car.

[RetroRacing]

SWEET!! Look forward to meeting you both. We will be the big white 48' trailer up against the grass halfway between the dirt road and the toilets.

[RetroRacing]

almost there, diffuser it done and everything is on the car. Going onto scales Saturday, cleaning up some wiring as well, then throwing my 7 back together and we are gtg!

57113571145711557116

[FFRSpec72]

almost there, diffuser it done and everything is on the car. Going onto scales Saturday, cleaning up some wiring as well, then throwing my 7 back together and we are gtg!

57113571145711557116

Looking GREAT !!!!

[Hindsight]

I agree it looks fantastic and very intimidating! I like the rear angled bumper exit exhaust.... haven't seen one quite like that yet. I may end up doing something similar.

Hope you have a GoPro!!