The build is picking up some speed

[Kempo]

I got my kit on Feb 9. Things got kind of slow while the used suspension went of to be sandblasted and painted along with the panels. It was all finished yesterday so the work resumed this morning before leaving for work. Hopefully tomorrow will see a lot of progress.

[Kempo]

https://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pxQ3wYUEq8WWlM_pL7N8U3Qo7p0m60DxA9cUHUHUCfdu_DfW P8Jgum0p8IrH-7MPdjXhVXu7W3yT43UKgGzmNAIfmF-HwvxrR/IMG_0671.JPG?psid=1

https://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pNKlF3K67FfUqFQ-1tH4X2dJmuoM5bGFkOIeq7nbI64XAXnPGV9-DMdjJVGCsbrU0VSeUvcwkxEtY3rDN4NsRBQk8MTaWo0oJ/IMG_0669.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pprSLfwLUyvPgPaomHBha0Tq1oTwngMgNJNU2B-FVkm0rdpMKDho4x4oBe-80WFohNbpCMnBz-_qUWm0-tq5jfA/IMG_0672.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pdEBMP0_JkE4bXofYjozEI39mCR-rJ6o8QaMTCEel_E_LLEwBwasGH5VfxQg7ttNemtQ6-322RPSoHers_uk2vg/IMG_0660.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pVfhE1EEZrPkbExgaCDTnxrGiq9quWfB3gKTdbzmFKEKxfEv 5NxOVG94dga2QuBoQz3ZzfHP2PHVr2Gm3zv9jNS4Y1wcVqodm/IMG_0666.JPG?psid=1
http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pmnuICLfEf284rUFvtGE1lg8qdS2e5Va-Bmmg4w2HwWmAKP-4tGv3DDlZSrXVxcbuPNK4BQ_m9DIAC0gur3BITbpvwgZlY0H-/IMG_0665.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pqos4PeTYZthiNFSmjNCiHsRJVqv5mmkR5bXmDWNh_0AXi2p KFUwphYL61FOf4HOsDG4116D7LBZlPiG1oqbrhpffPNfSEpBe/IMG_0661.JPG?psid=1

[whosnext]

i like all black

[RF RIDER]

What kind of coating do you have on the panels? Looks really good with the textured look. Looking forward to progress pics.

[Kempo]

I'm using a tintable truck bed liner. It can be tinted to any color. The main reason I choose it over paint is that it is also a sound dampening material. It takes away most of the metallic sound of the panels. I plan on using it on all the aluminum panels and under parts of the body that can be seen like under the front hood. Tinted in the same color of the body it should give a very nice finish to this fiber glass surfaces. Here is the technical data sheet http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/PT%20TDS.pdf and the web site info http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=155

[RF RIDER]

That should definitly hold up nice against any possible rock chipping etc. Thanks for the info. Did you apply it yourself or have a paint shop do it for you?

[Kempo]

It was done by a body shop along with the used suspension components.

[Kalstar]

Looks great! Much, much better. I too really like the black.

[Kempo]

Some more progress from tonight. The wheels arrived today. My first choice on color for the wheels was black, that was changed for anthracite later. At some point someone never got the color change and I ended up getting the black ones. After opening one and taking a look at them I decided not to return them and keep them. They look awesome IMHO. The steering rack also arrived on a package of back orders from FFR. I also installed part of the brakes tonight.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pspzWrOJ3PdBDV8uUXYwRZVvT0JpU1FFnOZQMdnS1dr42mZU YODsFGt0B7ZrsouvS5LvRyYLfTDuxd8Mc0Ty3XQ/IMG_0700.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pNJuvtoWpjViAEsszaULQGyFn19KEiRzyOl829MeL36z7Ymx 4N_6ISA8cFztiaWg7Kljd1IGwR6aN0KJK41yDpA/IMG_0701.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pP9x6V5pxgbvMpIv7B_s6adbAkndA7XccgmOmGn72BbGt14M NOhevAoKYU405979HcdMonXbwhF7-cAY3yVd1Sg/IMG_0696.JPG?psid=1

The rear

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKkppoLFlLh7gs32DdvV1El90wB_r15AC61e52oWhPCPby3S 4Q_yQE0Y0eNpYrHd9tMZzUqo5J9vjstjcv75ZFw/IMG_0702.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pJLxpYoRfa_AscB-n21cYBoBl1ir4pxpjw4_s9LIgK0bwPePY449IQNDSddj9zI0nd zFePT4axgsaPc7zQP5Pbw/IMG_0704.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pR_LzWucnQtzlpXEKgh72jPiEfUFm5QDCVPwLu_sTxG7tOvJ MFL22NQqWWCB4G4NbmktEdl1sy6ar8D3fQ5w7Ng/IMG_0708.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pA_2dxAGRghaYB8_lUGQkrdUUzfXmntMYs9kYvUkSLkOZ8ds vRHx64PNUMzxGbCP-8TBWy8BE1kjS0nTc2wUwmg/IMG_0713.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

The rack and column

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1popZerm1guE3IzcWmCFuIpcG4h_AkJMaHmkBtFFk3irxxd3l JmfjLsHn8XuP-PB7Uw18D-PwwkKFq_0eH95pjgQ/IMG_0687.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pyasBqyclJ3_xZBLZlBPj6MuMP2ehwQgdb16xTn51r3DAND5 098MXB1fsADXOTCF3s5CNLu3qORexd8SnxARsvQ/IMG_0683.JPG?psid=1

[mmaragos]

Looking great! I definitely like your rims, they will look awesome with so many different body colors.

[Kempo]

Thanks mmaragos!!! So far the plan is to paint the body white.

[GTM1]

Was there any issue with temperature for powder coating and the ball joints/rubbers?
Thought of doing this but was told high heat would make problems.
Yours looks great though!

[Kempo]

I didn't have them powder coated for that same reason. Didn't wanted to risk damaging all the bushings with the heat. The suspension parts were painted by a local body shop. It's not as strong as the powder coating but still beats the looks of how my used parts looked. Thanks for compliment.

[Kempo]

The LS 376 engine went in this weekend.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pV5V7FcrJpPIeSvSoCwaQ7kYr4-pVDtQyWObueT62uUTwBBVkLNebaRT4BMQZFIV_d2JxjOZNJp9r zVtWrxuHxg/IMG_0728.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pxzlxykT5dWYm-D2V8-bOWwnx8cdN_S7VUNQXD7HtJJhNPPI1VZ6hQ9ngNTVmEKeoCD0u SHu21k748_smw36c_Q/IMG_0730.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pqSaXHpRk0IK-I-CSiqRR4WeWwsaDdf6Dr8yiPnNjzwoQx7pAd7QzPzh0Cpar4uge 5kULY-Id3xs-mIhh90IKZQ/IMG_0732.JPG?psid=1

[LS MAN]

Great lookin build Kempo, is that a 376/480 crate motor?

[Kempo]

Thanks LS MAN. Yes it is a LS376/480.

[LS MAN]

Hey Kempo, are you using the crate motor harness kit & computer also?

[Kempo]

LS, I was planning on using it but I cancelled it. I saw an ad on eBay from these guys sspwiring.com They had an ad for the engine harness for the GTM. They will custom build it for any LS engine. He is also making a chassis harness for the GTM. They have or at least had a GTM in his shop he was wiring at the time of my order. They were using it to make the harness. The engine harness should be here on Saturday according to them. He is also going to be sending me a donor ECU with the LS376 reflash on it. I will post pictures of it when they arrive. The chassis harness should arrive a few weeks later.

BTW I was talking to Ron last night and he told me about the new site you have there on your signature. I really liked a few things you have there like the roll bar cover for example. Great Job.

[RF RIDER]

Kempo, build it looking great. I am interested in the custom wiring harness as well, I have pretty much the same engine. I like the temp brackets to hold up the engine, are they mounted to the control arm bracket? Can you update as to how the wiring harness works out for you and also if you don't mind could you PM me on the price for the harness. What are the brand of rotors you are using? I'm asking a lot of question, just anxious to get started myself.

[Kempo]

Thanks RF RIDER. The wiring has not been delivered yet. SSP WIRING pushed back the delivery date because the have some connectors on back order. As soon as it arrives I will post some updates and some pictures. Yes, the temporary brackets on the engine are attached to the lower cam bolts. The cam bolts are strong enough to handle the weight of the engine. Using this method I don't have the 2x4 piece of wood suggested in the manual to hold the engine til the the tranny arrives and I can keep on working around it. The rotors I'm using are DBA the model is 4000. They also have a model 5000 which is basically the same but with aluminum hats. I opted for the 4000 for two reasons 1. Price and 2. the ones with the aluminum hats don't have the brake drum built in the rears for the parking brake which is required for me to be able to register the car. The guy that sold me the braking system has a LOT of knowledge in braking systems and hat everything in stock. He even had these calipers without the Corvette logos on them. Got all the calipers, rotors, hawk pads, parking brake shoe housings and shoes, SS braided brake lines and all hardware for $2500. I can also PM his info if you want it or to anyone else that may need it. I will PM you the wiring info in a few minutes and post some more pictures.

When are you getting your kit? So far this has been lots of fun and not as difficult as I had imagined.

[Kempo]

The pedal box, master cylinders and lines are done.
http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p1zCLC8ouCGnRkGF_yhLlK9wu7iWc4fERl4iiBomRZ--sdnl4b-k5-Oe-fhMDPOOfuufyNefIFoYQhBPYJYjLxA6NrAQsChYe/IMG_0734.JPG?psid=1

The fans an radiator and A/C condenser are installed. Just need to change the bolts holding it on the upper part for some shorter ones.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1prxKPHqJARd5P51oiMFOEA38xtZj1Lf4y5rb4M7yvpSTr8D4 ZonbjWlG3XqIs6_eMF9gxgXXvnYcqSdYc3wDWHQ/IMG_0745.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1py0WEI5fIJoGOMu9na0O0y-T4Fh531Q2z3rrfaiDy3y_R3gm4vYCxfZp-SAetF2b9c1n0Yn2QsGeJlFf3vXbhqlb4icyX5NsD/IMG_0746.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pzP9u2pqzPnQbr33bZdzunpZwGczAonZ3zzK-rEifak0Glx_GG8vg8ulvro0gjbzNa6Jh1QcJAewfeteG5qnVuB xJihtfQadJ/IMG_0747.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1peX70LkO1pYjYGK7SBTUqFsUtlksriWc-8_TP4CnlRbaebd4PyAubKQgg22NmNOAy6EoURlvWjna4HSKqo6 ASUFiteudgauz5/IMG_0748.JPG?psid=1

The rivets were also painted so that they will be less noticeable.
http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pilP1Ja47Hmlr0blRr9WZnkwsER5hLpF25XzrFoMa6cP3XeO bwJJZY3vQVs3Y-0ygVg_W74BSCgQ1Xza0KR_4VoBkD4J8yKn6/IMG_0749.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

More parts arrived today. The Kook's exhaust is here. Thanks Shane for a great looking exhaust system. The ceramic coating makes it look very nice.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKjkbTZSzMdeuacewMJaUNywJa-HXCGMZoU9ZaS7AAwv29eqdVVQDE6Cq62HYAe-DWPAI9MVsR7grLjtNgD2ysQ/IMG_0776.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1piqwXI4fXdN4PgIH2TV9dv11Yy27-WzIzs9ctJTjtG6aRy52i8egxl13L6UMReo-trriAW1ea4FS3QTMd2gPu0Q/IMG_0779.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ppQDuDpys7F-xL8Oc0ugISH-s304aoaA-q9xWdZtSNllWqqlt14EGMHTRX_2fD9Q1q8M3jvEUw9-SwcUaKdNwBQ/IMG_0775.JPG?psid=1

I did a test fit on the passenger side to see if it fits with the A/C compressor and it looks like it's all good. The lines are not yet fitted to the compressor but it seems like there is plenty of space. this was the best picture I could take.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pZOlJxZBRcCxj4c3K1stceyqcoD_RWzQeW9Pn0T0Vrii6Q3f Z1mh6MVwMiHbOqrs9THFQLhK-WSVjvR53DzSsNw/IMG_0764.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

Having received the update on the Mendeola transaxle and clarification on what clutch can be used I ordered an LS7 clutch kit. Still need to order the flywheel. Not sure which direction to take on that. Aluminum, lightweight steel or stock. I want the car to be as fast as possible on track days without sacrificing a lot of street driveability.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pBcpVC_yDD3Bp9y9HMjr2j0Vt-zSza9rLkAx69NhBKYSbPWA44zaJQfeViFGBCoLWitot3IUSDuY QjlAukk0WjQ/IMG_0739.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pzjumMR4Y817wCbfXg0udYHVNYmisl9UQPaiVdTcQdLqwieP rxJaG38bSqPGYDUUwOG-2HH4vP6nASv627ogZMg/IMG_0740.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pr0qrT-PpJI-LjYxx02KqS5gHNEcr8NW6uvY0s-BswjyeR596Gv570-f0VyddzhGMNO0eBQrHgi5qRVEDTfrNHQ/IMG_0742.JPG?psid=1

[crash]

IMHO, the stock one is just fine. If you go with an aluminum, make sure it has a bolted on steel ring gear. I have used some with aluminum ring gears and they don't last long.

I haven't used an aluminum though, in mnay many years now. The steel ones are plenty light and much stronger.

[Muadi]

Kempo, the build is looking realy nice... good job.

I was curious about the coating your using. Are you pre-drilling the rivet holes prior to coating? If so, easy to clean up for rivets? If your not, are you finding it OK to drill through the coating? Are you only coating one side? Just wondering...

[Kempo]

Thanks for the advise on the flywheel Crash. I have to give you a call for some parts I need later this week.

Muadi, thanks for the compliment on the build. I'm drilling before I send them out for paint. After they are returned from paint I just go over each hole with the drill to make it easier to insert the rivet. Cleans up the hole real fast with the drill. I have also drilled quite a few new holes after painted and it has not done any damage to the coating. I'm coating both sides on all panels since I choose this coat for it's looks and also for it's sound dampening characteristics. Want the car sound as solid as possible.

[Waiting4Kids2Bgone]

Just saw this thru a link on the main page. I am interested in doing the same on a Roadster, but was planning on avoiding the places that the aluminum meet the frame for a more solid connection. With all that texture, did you have any issues riveting the panels or getting it to sit flat on the frame?

Thanks,
Tommy


I'm using a tintable truck bed liner. It can be tinted to any color. The main reason I choose it over paint is that it is also a sound dampening material. It takes away most of the metallic sound of the panels. I plan on using it on all the aluminum panels and under parts of the body that can be seen like under the front hood. Tinted in the same color of the body it should give a very nice finish to this fiber glass surfaces. Here is the technical data sheet http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/PT%20TDS.pdf and the web site info http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=155

[Kempo]

It is textured and a bit thicker than any paint but, not so much as to cause any problems. I drilled most of the holes on the bare panels and after they were painted every single hole had a perfect alignment with the corresponding hole on the frame/panel they fit to. HTH


Just saw this thru a link on the main page. I am interested in doing the same on a Roadster, but was planning on avoiding the places that the aluminum meet the frame for a more solid connection. With all that texture, did you have any issues riveting the panels or getting it to sit flat on the frame?

Thanks,
Tommy

[Kempo]

The engine harness was delivered today. The build quality is excellent and it fits perfect. I did a quick mock up to make sure everything is where it should and it is. This guys tool a long time to deliver but the quality is second to none. I'm still waiting for the chassis harness to arrive. The fuel system is almost ready as well. Still waiting for the filter bracket. I need to fabricate some heat shielding for the filter and the pump. I have also installed a check valve on the fuel supply line to make sure the pump will always have fuel in it on start ups. Here are a few pictures.

Fuel system

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pxQjTqpyXHFGqqpAXh-EJ7XcBW8yz1hOgXVwdMcfqFw4fU3i5T-S2vBUXLLQeHc825oQNZOyM312FVnOHm08N2_UsEkTqf-VU/IMG_0781.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pRV8Wfw_J0zhJp6TVJTrgbd2yCd0TfzuXcsBYXpo3lwf3_j3 Sazd72GaxpH551SGPemzKNXQ4MNAkLs3YDHz441gqAGEjCjU2/IMG_0783.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGUfVhj5m2ZJIktd-lcMopsX5tovzifWkUW00kGy_cZ2XNtj2TZd9CJLvY8bDugUuio rENuZkgVLymvmRca8SI8z2U0qymvQf/IMG_0784.JPG?psid=1

Harness

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGUfVhj5m2ZJIktd-lcMopsX5tovzifWkUW00kGy_cZ2XNtj2TZd9CJLvY8bDugUuio rENuZkgVLymvmRca8SI8z2U0qymvQf/IMG_0784.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pNbednTK2bD_7b7pSp19hHc8EI0dXt0QXO99qqtdoSI3J9eC RqmBJFLTEgT0377fcKbzzhralW1_wN5RqBp0FWgIMA24kDJX0/IMG_0799.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pkcIOq3UBoROGAby8QX6QW4gpzL118q_PVxV8t5vB5OGHKJQ W4EeIb0CSEJCW5j7uoPnvJ4XbSyK-IYekWGsUK8VHf4QPiGKC/IMG_0798.JPG?psid=1

[RF RIDER]

Kempo;
Wire harness looks great. Very clean. I'm still waiting to order the alum. fuel tanks, I still have C5 plastic ones that I will need to sell. You have to tell me where you bought all the fuel components and the black lines. Again very clean looking and well done. Each time I look at updates from you, my patience for my kit to arrive are getting thin. I think your right about heat shield for the filter and pump, I have no doubt you will come up with something that will compliment the rest of the build. Just have to make it removable for access just in case.

[Kempo]

Kempo;
Wire harness looks great. Very clean. I'm still waiting to order the alum. fuel tanks, I still have C5 plastic ones that I will need to sell. You have to tell me where you bought all the fuel components and the black lines. Again very clean looking and well done. Each time I look at updates from you, my patience for my kit to arrive are getting thin. I think your right about heat shield for the filter and pump, I have no doubt you will come up with something that will compliment the rest of the build. Just have to make it removable for access just in case.

Thanks RF RIDER. Sorry for the delayed reply. Just saw your post today. I got my fuel parts from a local Aeromotive distributor. You can get them directly from Aeromotive on their site or for a better price you can go to Summit racing. I'm sure Summit also carries the black braided lines. I prefer the black ones over the stainless steel braided ones for two reason. The first one is looks. The other is that the black braided on the hoses is a nylon type material that will not scratch everything that rubs against it like the SS ones do. If you are not using a aftermarket fuel rail Aeromotive makes a cool fitting that changes from the OEM GM fuel rail fitting to -8 AN. That way you don't have to modify the stock rail or even change it to run the AN fittings.

[Kempo]

My shocks arrived on Monday. I had seen them yellow in other posts here. Seems like FFR decided to change them to black. :D They blend better with the rest of the suspension IMHO. As a heads up check the bolts for the shocks that come in the kit. I had to stop working and get new ones. They are too long for the lower position on the rear shocks. I replaced them with 2.5 in bolts so that they would go all the way in without hitting the lower A-arm. I will also replace the front upper and lower shock bolts. They are too long, they look out of place in there.


Fronts

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pmA_WC56HX1loGeEVxBYp9PlsHy-SIyV7ZZYTXWnI6UcpshO0pGTlZB7EWyjFgVQBcexLXnTUz05Nm iCsFWWCMaVfVe1a4nP7/IMG_0817.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1poN_DLp8A3Yx9Kf8oQfdNFOS8Y3ImHuorh-XoaOYU-tkkwJdZi8fci4B1eGhA8G6ryv51LNMJuL325KkP8C7ofzv_xk0 U3dMw/IMG_0816.JPG?psid=1

Rears

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pRne15twLr-OHK7I_MALx_Jkr4FeSZRDUDqcK_qcXWGxTOoLNlGI2EdefrI6e 5szXznjy2mYaXunrgLpOWT3nI3xzJ0_xIjvH/IMG_0818.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pK7nVsUdIMlZUqJ7ioU9RI0Rxp85qJc5JLMlRN-HClvEtF8uFMWiF-fUU97fVQ9Av9CQqpaigOb2sGLnep19oBCQu_3-3kiSD/IMG_0820.JPG?psid=1

In this picture you can see tip of the 2.5 in bolt really close to the A-arm. It looks closer than what it actually is. The bolts on my kit were 3 in.


http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1puQ2mZEWcpAwPiw5_AwfjCAUg5w3fkI_TpWKiBla7tYN_DWN xAPGncUL7eQlobTOGb7ew8ts4zayZCu04j4I6PIe4hXZPIn3d/IMG_0819.JPG?psid=1

[VD2021]

My shocks arrived on Monday. I had seen them yellow in other posts here. Seems like FFR decided to change them to black. :D They blend better with the rest of the suspension IMHO. As a heads up check the bolts for the shocks that come in the kit. I had to stop working and get new ones. They are too long for the lower position on the rear shocks. I replaced them with 2.5 in bolts so that they would go all the way in without hitting the lower A-arm. I will also replace the front upper and lower shock bolts. They are too long, they look out of place in there.



You're right. Those are definitely not the right length bolts. Mine had only an 1/8" or so after be torqued to spec. Don't know about the rear bolt because I used Ted's rear shock mount.

BTW. Very nice work and garage. Your build is moving very quickly.

R/s
Vidal

[crash]

Maybe FFR wants to keep as little threaded area as possible in the shock bushing area? Either that or those are the wrong bolts for the location. If they are indeed correct, then shortening them would make them look right, but unfortunately then will be prone to rusting. :(

[Kempo]

Coolant hoses are done.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p-It0LazpMznD07aEHqtsHEaxc20MN6OQ1IYByZrHRm8N3w4mEj6 w1NJ6Hk6to3Yd5an60Q_Dk2laimz06K2NQxbh38hCSEJJ/IMG_0824.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKocum7H2C3w784mGxrlJDIvR5lwQwZxB_I6z6Pxlwxa6qLu nkOqkzJBX-qzsU_yYg4toBVTdt1oi00zgdZzsPEdmrwbQciVC/IMG_0825.JPG?psid=1

[c6_rob]

just want to say, enjoying this thread very much, im all ears

[Kempo]

just want to say, enjoying this thread very much, im all ears

Thanks, Rob.

[Kempo]

Just finished installing/test fitting Shane's rear wing and mount. The fitment and looks are perfect. All those cuts in the aluminum makes it look like a work of art. This mount is one precision built and strong part. Now it's coming off for black anodizing on the top two parts.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pTLSsOX9CkSx8yz_skFTgcflZZcm_kYDL2krHBEIvhQQZQaS 4uoXfpnr9RQmfFYLXH_N2FqpvvnNE5_WXYM_F-QW0IV3mycA4/IMG_0828.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pjCurywRiSdPizbOiDvBzDhC3WdzcKPKDDjGqFPHDWhdCaPC SdxTPjpgtYAC1SHKN4JDvYT4wrukPlnGuYO-EhA/IMG_0830.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pQIgbkk2xMUU7_AhxXDaS5Q_sSQOk_Bs3JGAfxgyQiMrkJMp jf9cHg_f5Byeq3Rz2sFRIYqnzyg-eUePyugL-2A/IMG_0831.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pNidLvtmDD39S4Yq2s_5nSOrDhLVmvt-zWlHa2hPsgfsp7y21z189-dlcIXL-abTJ6fbGHKtf7F-PbWRsgVcmiw/IMG_0832.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pcMtzASW9-stgFfW4NQT5AMBNkYKPrveFggrKyQ4dx1Czq5u6i6efiyl7Th9 zFTKFOeOOYPJqzIdYRDxnF2sNkg/IMG_0836.JPG?psid=1

[kaloper]

Kempo...That's a really nice wing set-up! I'm starting research on rear wing mounting and your post is very helpful. Will you have to modify any panels where the braces are?

Your build looks great and is progressing quickly...Good Luck

Karl
GTM #362

[Kempo]

Kempo...That's a really nice wing set-up! I'm starting research on rear wing mounting and your post is very helpful. Will you have to modify any panels where the braces are?

Your build looks great and is progressing quickly...Good Luck

Karl
GTM #362

Karl,
I haven't test fitted any of the panels that are close to the mount but, it is my understanding that there is no modification needed. At least is not mentioned in the instructions. If you are looking for a mount IMHO this is a 12 in a scale from 10 to 1. HTH

Hugo

[Radkat]

Hi Kempo,
Very nice build, looks great!
I missed where the wing came from and the cost. Can you help me out?

Thanks,
Radkat

[Kempo]

Hi Kempo,
Very nice build, looks great!
I missed where the wing came from and the cost. Can you help me out?

Thanks,
Radkat

Thanks Radkat. The mount and spoiler came from the same place. Here you can see all the details and prices. http://vraptorspeedworks.com/?page_id=133 He has many GTM custom parts. I have ordered a few of his products and all are top notch. The mount can be used with the wing I have or the other wing he sells. Just remove 4 pins pull one wing of and install the other in just a matter of minutes.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Thanks for the great comments on the wing set-up Kempo! I'm glad you like it! You do need to turn the top 2 alum parts around on each side, and swap them side-to-side though....so the offset is toward the rear to clear the hatch opening on the body. :)

[VD2021]

Yet another OUTSTANDING product. Those mounts look as if they will support a tank.

R/s
Vidal

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yet another OUTSTANDING product. Those mounts look as if they will support a tank.

R/s
Vidal

Thanks Vidal. Yes, when I have to push/pull the car around the shop, that is what I push on. I designed the whole system with the APR wing in mind.....figuring if guys are going to use it for more than just something cool looking, and actually use it for downforce at speed, it was going to have to support some weight and force!

[Kempo]

I recieved my tires yesterday. A few friends came over last night and they were impressed on how wide the rear tires are.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pN8b7slFByu9qC-AKGceRdnoXLWVMdoB4pe0JBslkiCbYc2YAaGbUpx5HDkvYLZcy qhyPpD5UCaF9toyfmgqgDw/IMG_0838.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pW_Aoa58R3lAF9ejxjXIMae5F6er6ro5SVNOtbUOSdkMYEVh KijwHL2njR_bd06J31uVB0yOZxui_HUbt9I2ayA/IMG_0840.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p6H_u4VKx2xXbvNqlOdNiqsAfIZd9rj0Mx9UwUIcwyw0kzO3 ShyHslyEM4vTs0jCIUODc4bCGjKTysOEvlRZJpw/IMG_0841.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pZi0w1M3GxlNKVhOftVydlwpsyVox_ImDWCE4nrA652KY7GB 3iapg06f5ncApntPBb7UJuYPf5IVq3SwA4oM3hQ/IMG_0843.JPG?psid=1

[David Hodgkins]

Holy Steamroller Batman! Those rears are HUGE!!

Me LIKEY!!!

:)

[Roger Reid]

.....figuring if guys are going to use it for more than just something cool looking, and actually use it for downforce at speed, it was going to have to support some weight and force!

Thats good news. I was wondering where I was going to attach my rear tow hook.:)

[LCD Gauges]

I'm so jealous! My car can't sell fast enough so I can get into one of these kits!

Your tires and wheel choice is exceptional. I love the spoke design and the colour combo. Very nice work indeed.

You must be proud!

[Kempo]

Thanks for the kind words 00SS_M6LS1. While the Mendeola gets finished and the guy making me a chassis harness gets it done I decided to start with the body fitting. I called my buddy Wally who owns a body shop and he came over this weekend and we got started. We were able to cut most of the holes on the body. I never thought a vacuum cleaner would be so handy when cutting that fibber glass. That dust gets everywhere. We also attached the front end and got it close to where it should be. The gap between the front end and the body really BIG but lets see what happens when we install the latches. The rest is not that far away. Still haven't touched the doors or rear hatch. We also installed Shane's rear wing and it has a perfect fit.

I'm concerned of the rear tires touching the rear fenders on a bump. Maybe some negative camber can solve the clearance problem in case there is really one. Or maybe thinner spacers for the wheel can help. We will see when we get there. Here are some pictures.


http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pEub2H8S1HpovlWRdR742YMnQvUtbnjujp0wxfa6wB0jrNUy hXugiPDvX7ZLseJ3jfc-2IDhGGoo3VtNhu3ekAA/IMG_0849.JPG?psid=1


http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pr0AhZOyDSf8kduZHjBG7kNvXwXRsfdFITzN782xsEt5U1g5 FIZ0PF47-lFzG6ZTfltmyQkLJ5m6wxsuATFB9FA/IMG_0850.JPG?psid=1


http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKohYWM7Bh5JVEt7tz3j8EG8gY845dA9CD_fbGuSqUe0vL5s JcYoFP6NIq0xyXHad8nrcIzx20Di4co_s4amvlQ/IMG_0851.JPG?psid=1


http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pc3QoX_4xfzR9ZlHbPgJoifMlo4EFKwBYxo4SAOt2gicfAsP-5yj-jXlzrHL5OfqOmVARAshNpO9CxMnjUj3Sqg/IMG_0852.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFTLFHisdBMUySDgkTCTpm5JXeAvE66Oeh0ZBjIl6L6HPBYO mMl7fY7OeybEahOFVF3jRGz83g-sVNZd0IfA9nw/IMG_0853.JPG?psid=1


http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pAca5PIIe8Y1wwbozSjxj8W1xqrHvhPbfzsVssgxMDZxhoH9 n-a8pEn-5TyEWGIVhTJZWOf7X12jrNrh7u2Ts9g/IMG_0855.JPG?psid=1

[Texan_GTM]

Wow... That is coming along amazingly. I hope that when I can get a GTM it'll look this good :)

[VD2021]

Nice. How did you attach the body mount (FFR# 25333) at the rear license plate area?

[Kempo]

Nice. How did you attach the body mount (FFR# 25333) at the rear license plate area?

I'm holding the rear with one self tapping screw at at the rear. I received in my kit the rear mount for a Gen I. Called FFR and they shipped the correct one on Monday it should arrive tomorrow.

[VD2021]

I'm holding the rear with one self tapping screw at at the rear. I received in my kit the rear mount for a Gen I. Called FFR and they shipped the correct one on Monday it should arrive tomorrow.

I too have the Gen1 Part. I'm sure we all do. One would think that FFR would just send these to us once they're developed and in stock. Have you received the hatch or diffuser hardware? Just wondering if I need to ask for these too.

[Kempo]

I too have the Gen1 Part. I'm sure we all do. One would think that FFR would just send these to us once they're developed and in stock. Have you received the hatch or diffuser hardware? Just wondering if I need to ask for these too.

This is the part I got on the kit. I assume this is part 25333 since it is marked as shipped in the box list.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pe7nmL4ZgwSr3Zw1NpmWAzD2VEd-wCVu-psMfvDtRWOlQSpIPD-mysbqYyaz2pjy24H4IGrQ1v2q6M-Ih1OsRbMmEJiah8hfA/body3.jpg?psid=1

This is what is showed in my manual and what was shipped to a friend of mine who got his GTM a few weeks ago.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pPVGlFv2gN7eAfssFx9V0zBpgNQ_Sg2THGUjXEonEi7TWmkX f4y0tipwB0nAEANWGxzTCNVZF-gWn7iZ7Dk4zLbSaH4NWqjg1/body2.JPG?psid=1

I still haven't received the new diffuser hardware either.

Sorry for the low quality pictures I took them with my phone.

[GTMKris]

Coming along nicely. I guess that I'm going to have to spend more time over here. I haven't seen these pics on ffcars. As far as the tires go they look great. I fit 345's in the rear of my gen 1 gtm but I guess the back spacing is where its at.

[VD2021]

This is the part I got on the kit. I assume this is part 25333 since it is marked as shipped in the box list.


I still haven't received the new diffuser hardware either.

Sorry for the low quality pictures I took them with my phone.

K,
Thanks. The first picture shows the Gen1 parts I received as well. Did you friend recieve the hardware shown in the Gen2 Hatch instructions shown on the second picture? I was emailed those instructions as a manual update late last year. I was hoping the Gen2 hatch hardware would shortly follow the new instructions. But that's good news if your friend has the new hardware.

It's becoming a little more critical for me as I have completed mulitiple goKart runs (about 10miles now) and am going to install the top tunnel panels this week-end followed by the body. I'm sure Nitetrain is not going to enjoy installing the new gear, for the first time while working around his new paint. I agree that it is best practice to ship or let us pick up our kits not having all of the parts instock for the simple reason that you don't need every item all at once. But it does get frustrating when items/issues like this go seemingly overlooked until the customer says something.

Great work on your build. It has to be nice having that work space to accomplish this in. Very nice.


Coming along nicely. I guess that I'm going to have to spend more time over here. I haven't seen these pics on ffcars. As far as the tires go they look great. I fit 345's in the rear of my gen 1 gtm but I guess the back spacing is where its at.

Hmmm...Why haven't you started a build log thread on "ffcars"? I try to keep up on both forums, but I admit that the real build help and knowledge is on the ffcars forum and I spend the majority of my time there.

[Kempo]

K,
Thanks. The first picture shows the Gen1 parts I received as well. Did you friend receive the hardware shown in the Gen2 Hatch instructions shown on the second picture?
Great work on your build. It has to be nice having that work space to accomplish this in. Very nice.

Yes he did receive all the parts in the picture. Actually I have them now since I'm a bit ahead of him in the build I borrowed them from him and will replace them when mine arrive.




Hmmm...Why haven't you started a build log thread on "ffcars"? I try to keep up on both forums, but I admit that the real build help and knowledge is on the ffcars forum and I spend the majority of my time there.

I agree with you that most of the build info is on FFCARS (which I really like, visit frequently and has been very helpful to me) but time wise it is hard for me keep up with two threads of the same. I opted for posting it here to back up FFR efforts of setting up this site.

[VD2021]

Yes he did receive all the parts in the picture. Actually I have them now since I'm a bit ahead of him in the build I borrowed them from him and will replace them when mine arrive.





I agree with you that most of the build info is on FFCARS (which I really like, visit frequently and has been very helpful to me) but time wise it is hard for me keep up with two threads of the same. I opted for posting it here to back up FFR efforts of setting up this site.

K,
Thanks. I just called and Brian is shipping mine out to me.

On the two forums. No worries. I just subscribe to the threads I'm interested in here and check them when I get an email notification of a new post.

[VD2021]

K,
I have a question for you about your wheels. Can you tell me the offset and backspace for the rear and front? Thanks

R/s
Vidal

[Kempo]

This was posted by Mad Dog from FFR on another thread here. This is a copy paste:

Front Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18"x 9"
Rear Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18"x 12"
Front Wheel Backspace: 6.95" (50mm Offset)
Rear Wheel Backspace: 8.49" (51mm Offset)
Wheel Lug Pattern: GM style 5 lug x 4.75" bolt circle
Material: Flow formed
Aluminum Color: Titanium

Weight: 18"x 9": 19.5 lb 18"x 12": 22.2 lb

Front Brake Fitment 13" Z06 Calipers and Rotors
Rear Brake Fitment: 13.00" Z06 Calipers and Rotors

Recommended Tire Sizes: Front: 245/40 ZR18 Rear: 335/30 ZR18
Toyo Proxes RA1 tires are used on our GTM

[VD2021]

Copy. Identical to the FFR wheels. Thanks.

[sasha]

added: http://gtmwiki.com/index.php/Tires

[GTMsomeday]

Hey Kempo

I am waiting for a set of these wheels from FFR. I think they are supposed to be used without spacers. That would solve your clearance problem.

Good Luck
Ken


This was posted by Mad Dog from FFR on another thread here. This is a copy paste:

Front Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18"x 9"
Rear Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18"x 12"
Front Wheel Backspace: 6.95" (50mm Offset)
Rear Wheel Backspace: 8.49" (51mm Offset)
Wheel Lug Pattern: GM style 5 lug x 4.75" bolt circle
Material: Flow formed
Aluminum Color: Titanium

Weight: 18"x 9": 19.5 lb 18"x 12": 22.2 lb

Front Brake Fitment 13" Z06 Calipers and Rotors
Rear Brake Fitment: 13.00" Z06 Calipers and Rotors

Recommended Tire Sizes: Front: 245/40 ZR18 Rear: 335/30 ZR18
Toyo Proxes RA1 tires are used on our GTM

[Kempo]

Hey Kempo

I am waiting for a set of these wheels from FFR. I think they are supposed to be used without spacers. That would solve your clearance problem.

Good Luck
Ken

Ken,

You are correct. Jim posted that the spacers are not needed for this wheels.

Sasha, nice work on that table you made. You can add there that I'm not running the spacers and the tires are Toyo R888 not the RA1.

[nkmaynard]

Kempo,

The documentation of your building experience is extremely helpful to those of us considering doing the same. I must commend you on your attention to detail. You are doing a very nice job.

My first love has always been the GT40 and I have been watching some of them (replicas of course) as the pass through the market these days. The GTM is quite a different car though and I love the idea of late model LS power. Do you mind disclosing your planned budget is for this build and if there have been any big financial surprizes thus far? It appears you used donor suspension parts. Did you experience any problems locating what you needed? Any unexpected challenges you experience along the way would be great to hear about.

Thanks again for your posts.

[Kempo]

Kempo,

The documentation of your building experience is extremely helpful to those of us considering doing the same. I must commend you on your attention to detail. You are doing a very nice job.

My first love has always been the GT40 and I have been watching some of them (replicas of course) as the pass through the market these days. The GTM is quite a different car though and I love the idea of late model LS power. Do you mind disclosing your planned budget is for this build and if there have been any big financial surprizes thus far? It appears you used donor suspension parts. Did you experience any problems locating what you needed? Any unexpected challenges you experience along the way would be great to hear about.

Thanks again for your posts.

nkmaynard,

Thanks for the compliments on my build. I decided to document my build like this because this kind of threads were the ones that gave me an idea of what I was going to get into when I placed my order. I occasionally lurked the ffcars forum for a couple of years before placing my order. I finally decided to order my GTM after seeing it in person in the 2010 SEMA show and having a chat with Gary (fact5racer here at the forum) I agree with you about the GT40 it's a beautiful car but, don't write off the GTM until you see one in person. IMO the looks on the GTM are like a modern high performance supercar. The modern LS factor is also a plus on my list.

On the budget side my original budget was less than what it has turned out to be. I was originally planing on going the donor route on everything but the engine. All that changed when I started hunting down the parts. I'm located at Puerto Rico and getting a donor locally became kind of a challenge. Bringing one from the states was a piece of cake but I would have to pay a huge amount of taxes on it. So, I decided to buy my parts new except for the suspension which is extremely expensive new. Worst case scenario If there is something worn like bushings, ball joints etc. they can be replaced for a little amount of money. After that I started looking for the transmission. The plan was getting a used Porsche unit. At that same time FFR released the intro price for the Mendeola. I wasn't that much more over the used Porsche after rebuilding and gearing it so I decided to go with the Mendeola for that bit more $$$ and have a new unit. Another thing that changed my budget was all the goodies sold by Shane at Vraptorspeedworks.com many of them are a must have IMO since they bump the build quality and value of the car. My new budget now is higher. The only high cost stage I'm missing now is the paint it's labor but that is not that expensive here and the guy doing it is a very good friend of mine who is doing it dirt cheap for me. All the other labor is being done by me so it's "no charge".

[VD2021]

Kempo,

The documentation of your building experience is extremely helpful to those of us considering doing the same. I must commend you on your attention to detail. You are doing a very nice job.

My first love has always been the GT40 and I have been watching some of them (replicas of course) as the pass through the market these days. The GTM is quite a different car though and I love the idea of late model LS power. Do you mind disclosing your planned budget is for this build and if there have been any big financial surprizes thus far? It appears you used donor suspension parts. Did you experience any problems locating what you needed? Any unexpected challenges you experience along the way would be great to hear about.

Thanks again for your posts.

If maintaining a low budget is a concern here is a link that you should check out;
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum-sponsored-mendeola-powertrain/267244-budget-gtm-build-log.html

There is also a Build Log Thread with many documented builds. Some of the builds are complete and others like mine are still in the works.
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum-sponsored-mendeola-powertrain/180046-build-gallery-build-log-thread.html

Welcome to the forum/s.

[Kempo]

Not much has been done lately. The doors are done. They only need a bit more of work on the gaps and rounding of the edges. There was no need to cut any of the frames as I have seen done on the some Gen I. They did were a pain in the but to install.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pwpCMwVzDCHSK4BKHvkb2DD-qkyBJfbTChj52p_a6miCXcB-nx4NPDXYPo1ISn_76GI-eGydGM8K6v8q6zqb0MdR-IomhUEhf/IMG_0884.JPG?psid=1

I also received the wheel nuts. As a heads up for those ordering the forgestar wheels. The stock Corvette 19mm socket nuts will fit the wheel but you will eventually damage the finish on the wheels since the socket is about the same size as the hole on the wheel. I ordered this steel 17mm nuts with a 60 degree seat angle. A friend told me he doesn't like the finish on them because they look like a bubble made from dish washing liquid LOL. Still I do like the way they look on the black wheel.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ptE_L7U48B6m2ypoty29I8jUqZDeoJGM18AMN-5M0IB8BMPlLVekcw503aB1ySe9sfQcH_Pxlj7gooFygu_h-KUuIzwqM28tg/IMG_0881.JPG?psid=1

The diffuser is also partially installed. I still need to receive the bolts and spacers for the rear from FFR. It has an opening in the rear of 3.75 in and comes out of the body 1.25 in as recommended by FFR. To those of you concerned on how this looks compared to the Gen I previously installed in Dave's car IMO this looks as good as the Gen I. Must admit that when FFR posted the pictures of the Gen II installed on Dave's car my impression was that it looked too big of a hole back there. But the pictures makes it look too big. It actually doesn't look that big in person. Although what might look not too big for me might be huge to others and vise versa.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pAFzfOnNRNQCT025IDwTrcmSehtyTU66l5e2FM0Mc5f82v_x jfgUe0AUK9jZW4g-BkliaWWhnGE5ck3LE4-qNMr36Revw3TTw/IMG_0872.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGykGRIWLSDxJ6aHSkT6-ZXKv2rllwd_BfF3mz6u1gYQ3_-xW3r6CDIDh2WtioV8gf7ffcKo1NvRdEUCiPPqeln74EV9e9vat/IMG_0873.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pMkolZ3m2NaeVOIMhdTiYn6K6Ac9_W_M68g1tCls3F-YA-uoHIAeRccB7_ulaBMpbAs774IjRmFtSvC92Ljh0uARkLsZm8X1 c/IMG_0877.JPG?psid=1

Finished drilling and fitting the rear wheel well panels. Now of to paint with the liner.

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pQyD-khQNx1utVX4TAx7qI2a6Q5itLIeiT22FijHHB17xF2iSUyp0cN Ss_Cw2L-WC4rRxvdNgQw28wft91GD-rERIOjh7Bw8C/IMG_0870.JPG?psid=1

http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1paS14ntjL2fh0IXS_Wc8qcLRkrV5H6EbS5WYtpt0XHXgoUZ9 kIq1c6LuxaTdQ36Ck2iK2YJJiCaPnUoEfH-kTCZX20sXmFOxa/IMG_0868.JPG?psid=1

BTW, the wheel spacers will be coming off before the wheels go back in the car.

[Kempo]

Here is a short video of the driver's door.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oinBdfNI6lo

[nkmaynard]

Thanks VD 2021 for the build links and Kempo for the reply,

I downloaded a copy of the assy manual and have been going over it very carefully. I located the companies on EBAY that sell the "completion kits" for $5K and $11K respectfully for the used and new kits. I would probably prefer to go that route instead of messing with a donor car. With a new LS6 at about $6.3K (LS7 @ $14K) and the tranny at about $8.5K, I can see where the $50K mark can be hit pretty fast. Add paint and all the little stuff and $60K is far more realistic. I have noticed that there are occasionally GTMs for sale in that range as well. The older I get the more I forget about all the "fun" I had 30+ years ago building Firebirds and GTO's. But then again, in those days I couldn't afford it any other way. In reality, I have a couple years to get everything paid off to the point that I can either buy someones completed car or procure the kit/parts to do it myself. I figure it would take most of a year to complete. I guess I had better do some finish work on my wife's '72 Vette before starting my own long term project because as we all know, "If Mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy"! The only way to have it exactly like I want it is to do it myself but once again, none of are getting any younger. I will follow the builds and make that decision in a couple years. It will be interesting to watch Fuzzy build his GTM.

Thanks again for the advise. I hope to join the GTM family soon.

[VD2021]

Not much has been done lately. The doors are done. They only need a bit more of work on the gaps and rounding of the edges. There was no need to cut any of the frames as I have seen done on the some Gen I. They did were a pain in the but to install.

K,
Did you install the power windows? The cutting and repositioning of the passenger side door frame is done to allow the power window mech to clear. Nitetrain cut, repositioned and welded his http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum-sponsored-mendeola-powertrain/267042-window-woes.html#post2456401, but hitechmotorsports was able to get the passenger side power window working without redoing the door frame.

[Kempo]

K,
Did you install the power windows? The cutting and repositioning of the passenger side door frame is done to allow the power window mech to clear. Nitetrain cut, repositioned and welded his http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum-sponsored-mendeola-powertrain/267042-window-woes.html#post2456401, but hitechmotorsports was able to get the passenger side power window working without redoing the door frame.

Vidal,

I haven't installed the power windows yet. I will probably do it tomorrow or early next week. A friend who is also building a GTM was able to install both windows on his GTM yesterday without cutting the frame. I hope I can do the same. Maybe FFR changed something in there. He told me that the glass will not go in all the way in the door when it was lowered. Is this correct? I don't recall seeing the glass stick out on Dave's yellow car. Maybe being mostly a demo car it doesn't have any glass on the doors? Thanks for the link I'll check it out.

[VD2021]

Vidal,

I haven't installed the power windows yet. I will probably do it tomorrow or early next week. A friend who is also building a GTM was able to install both windows on his GTM yesterday without cutting the frame. I hope I can do the same. Maybe FFR changed something in there. He told me that the glass will not go in all the way in the door when it was lowered. Is this correct? I don't recall seeing the glass stick out on Dave's yellow car. Maybe being mostly a demo car it doesn't have any glass on the doors? Thanks for the link I'll check it out.

K,
Ys Sir, that's correct. The windows don't go completely into the door without major modification. Good luck on the window. I really hope you get the pass side window to work without redoing the door frame. That way you let me know what's required.

I was hoping to have my body on this week-end but Ive was out of town with the family last week and I decided to installl my undercarriage panels, skid kit and a fan to push some heat from the engine bay. I'm also installing my drivers seat tracks.

[Kempo]

I did some work tonight on the passenger door. I was able to get it working without any mods to the frame. One thing I noticed was that the measures given in the manual for the holes that have to be drilled in the door to hold the upper part of the window track were impossible at least in my case. The manual states that the rear track hole should be done 10" from the rear of the door and the front one at 27" from the rear. In my case at 10 and 27 In. the track would stick out of the top of the door. IIRC the rear one ended up at 7.5 in. At this point I'm only holding the tracks with those bolts at the top. I still haven't bonded the brackets that hold the tracks to the frame. Because of this when the window is going up I have to push it to the outside to guide it over the rear door pillar. When those brackets get bonded and in place it should go by itself.

Another thing I had to do was cut about 3/8" of the bolt that closes the clamp that holds the glass on the rear track. It sticks out too much and was hitting the outer skin of the door.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p3H48ahKVCUl4WoXwDmX9GnPWW7uB81NHMK7GOdHj8whdEbR G3wU99idg6RObLPNrJ-23Fh8InpYcQ9N57r_2gA/IMG_0888.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p8xZhDlzDwzQ4O6IWByHLU1Ov8Grcac_bl177aAIahNNzimg gWlYT2nnR0pJdVo8ShT9c5GLqVSpOeOjjJF1qQA/IMG_0889.JPG?psid=1

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pevzpMCr1mNgDWdF82r2FZIPs1oQ_DAtrW2-Q2qcSXLuhUieO0SsznMXG7_97GwxjZ3znzeSfTMb44Z_zAIlQD A/IMG_0890.JPG?psid=1


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbZKkErc9Os&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

[Kempo]

K,

I was hoping to have my body on this week-end but Ive was out of town with the family last week and I decided to installl my undercarriage panels, skid kit and a fan to push some heat from the engine bay. I'm also installing my drivers seat tracks.

Nice!!! What color did you go with?

[VD2021]

Nice!!! What color did you go with?

Probably the toughest decision yet. As on right now I've narrowed it down to Crystal Red Metallic (C6) or possibly Red Jewel Tin (Camaro). Likely the Crystal Red Metalic. I need to take another look at the Red Jewel though.

[VD2021]

[QUOTE=Kempo;21874]I did some work tonight on the passenger door. I was able to get it working without any mods to the frame. One thing I noticed was that the measures given in the manual for the holes that have to be drilled in the door to hold the upper part of the window track were impossible at least in my case. The manual states that the rear track hole should be done 10" from the rear of the door and the front one at 27" from the rear. In my case at 10 and 27 In. the track would stick out of the top of the door. IIRC the rear one ended up at 7.5 in. At this point I'm only holding the tracks with those bolts at the top. I still haven't bonded the brackets that hold the tracks to the frame. Because of this when the window is going up I have to push it to the outside to guide it over the rear door pillar. When those brackets get bonded and in place it should go by itself.

Another thing I had to do was cut about 3/8" of the bolt that closes the clamp that holds the glass on the rear track. It sticks out too much and was hitting the outer skin of the door.
QUOTE]

Outstanding. Did you attach the lower points per the manual? Do you forsee any clearance or window alignment to body/pillar once the brackets are bonded? I'm taking notes so push as much info as you feel is warranted.

Reports like this give me conficence about doing my doors and panels myself and ending up with a solid product.

[Kempo]

[QUOTE=Kempo;21874]I did some work tonight on the passenger door. I was able to get it working without any mods to the frame. One thing I noticed was that the measures given in the manual for the holes that have to be drilled in the door to hold the upper part of the window track were impossible at least in my case. The manual states that the rear track hole should be done 10" from the rear of the door and the front one at 27" from the rear. In my case at 10 and 27 In. the track would stick out of the top of the door. IIRC the rear one ended up at 7.5 in. At this point I'm only holding the tracks with those bolts at the top. I still haven't bonded the brackets that hold the tracks to the frame. Because of this when the window is going up I have to push it to the outside to guide it over the rear door pillar. When those brackets get bonded and in place it should go by itself.

Another thing I had to do was cut about 3/8" of the bolt that closes the clamp that holds the glass on the rear track. It sticks out too much and was hitting the outer skin of the door.
QUOTE]

Outstanding. Did you attach the lower points per the manual? Do you forsee any clearance or window alignment to body/pillar once the brackets are bonded? I'm taking notes so push as much info as you feel is warranted.

Reports like this give me conficence about doing my doors and panels myself and ending up with a solid product.


Yes, the lower points are per the manual. I don't think there will be any clearance or alignment issues with the brackets installed. I think that they should help align the glass better with the rear door pillar. the rest of the glass fits as it should so far. I hope that wont change with the brackets on. The only modification done to the frame was trimming the part that sits against the front of the door. This was done to allow the upper part of the frame to be as inward as possible inside the door. I have circled in this picture were the trimming was done. On the lower part of the frame you can still see the excess material outside of the weld.


http://pd12tw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p6zbEumrDh7NLzxdLCZhyC0nWAqlaZezJ9bI125pSDOQZ7qs yxMb7Ob8d_Rsfgti_-iT3Igsj06W9hgvDYfmTuMB5qpub9FWd/IMG_0889%20circle.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

Probably the toughest decision yet. As on right now I've narrowed it down to Crystal Red Metallic (C6) or possibly Red Jewel Tin (Camaro). Likely the Crystal Red Metalic. I need to take another look at the Red Jewel though.

I think you can't go wrong with any of those two colors. I have to agree with you, deciding on the color was hard. I finally decided to go white. Now my next decision is if I will paint the roof black or not. If I decide to do it the next decision will be a complete black roof or just the center where the roof scoop sits and the center of the hood were hood vents are?

[VD2021]

I think you can't go wrong with any of those two colors. I have to agree with you, deciding on the color was hard. I finally decided to go white. Now my next decision is if I will paint the roof black or not. If I decide to do it the next decision will be a complete black roof or just the center where the roof scoop sits and the center of the hood were hood vents are?

K,
I don't know about anyone else, but I think white with the entire roof black would really work. Especially with your black wheels. My vote is for the entire black roof.

[VD2021]

Your skid kit should be a snap with your lift. I was on a roller and you can only get the chassis so high on stands. I had to take frequent breaks, but I got it done. Along with a 10" fan I put in the access panel. I didn't install the two panels that cover the "X" right in front of the seats since I need to install/remove the seats.

[Kempo]

Your skid kit should be a snap with your lift. I was on a roller and you can only get the chassis so high on stands. I had to take frequent breaks, but I got it done. Along with a 10" fan I put in the access panel. I didn't install the two panels that cover the "X" right in front of the seats since I need to install/remove the seats.

The lift has definitely paid for itself in this project and has made it easier for the lower back. I got an excellent deal on the lift. Paid $800 from a Ford dealership that went out of business.

[VD2021]

K,
Any updates?

[fact5racer]

K,
Any updates?

My guess he is like me..............waiting for transaxle.

[Kempo]

No updates this for this weekend. I was out of town. I will keep on working on fitting the body for now since as fact5racer I'm also waiting for the transaxle so the GTM can get closer to go kart stage. I'm dying to hear that engine roar back there.

[Texan_GTM]

Thanks mmaragos!!! So far the plan is to paint the body white.

Nice! Can't wait to see it! My plans are for white too! Your kit is gen 1? right? Can the Ge 2 still have the mesh in the hood like the Gen 1?

[Kempo]

Nice! Can't wait to see it! My plans are for white too! Your kit is gen 1? right? Can the Ge 2 still have the mesh in the hood like the Gen 1?

Yes it is a gen II. My guess is that the mesh can still be used on the gen II with some minor mods to the hood.

[Kempo]

Some progress was made on the body this week. We reshaped part of the wheel wells in the front so that the hood would match the body. We also added some material on the body to reduce the gap between the body and the hood. It still needs more work on the well and on the gap but is getting there.

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pP_40Cj9UbE23JwkvCChnBba2d5lxHR4JZi8qO3vNhttdeMP N6eU3eUr_csOxHo6snQW_354jPYqnVfauWELa1A/IMG_0895.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pWxHAUU9_pcEdMG9zXfAbud3oqwpzUbyO8p7U7S6Dqa38t_Y mlxbSYUFbbgGdwBBdFG5Ut1PbzTNWpclbbAGwJw/IMG_0894.JPG?psid=1

The roof scoop is now bonded to the body.

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p-5XBpAMFZ8Qw3OBF1bX5GHYh5vKUnSCJHW6pgq0PVJgXdCPhTnJ eS3GHMwPJJlmXp1-pNmnrCrpTYJ7s4HzvDw/IMG_0898.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pB352HKywxu77WbmKRhCffmGrjFBB560ltoXzJRQtty9nXGh d_5X-xtXTx25z1i9UjpXGxmt25p6h8Sed3woKxA/IMG_0897.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pd66wSJHB1p1r6nJRWVTu7NALD7QIodIRZ7pSTqRRyWwFzHX gcMe3DkT56TKBnN5w-AdGFhxNghUd1W8wOqtDtw/IMG_0896.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

On the doors my friend Kenny came up with the idea of installing an aluminum 90 degree angular piece under the door glass opening. Bonded to this aluminum part will be a rubber and aluminum molding that will replace the not so nice looking FFR supplied glass seal for this location. I plan on painting the polished aluminum part of the molding in black and the rivets that will hold it will be covered with body filler or something like it. Here are some pictures of it with a piece of the molding that will be used. This should help the seal on the lower part of the glass.


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1prgDXbTpo2WuGkSkA7YMvBF3fr-CL3ns18TGpB3OsNG9INEGTzM1YDMkT7EiO3QSybBVOY4e1l_ZT I-25ekbbtg/IMG_0901.JPG?psid=1


Under side


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pypqkP-Xo-55Q7npLdR3DnQ8T7Sc1HAnvGXHQEuE1CAkAklT-DmmWuOrdl0s4WootSA3z7k4QdtX6caEgLPMWPg/IMG_0902.JPG?psid=1


The molding

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p7dM3LtBCfqy8aZZ32INYr8wuznAAWuIXTpZnQ9ACtq8uFCm 9E20K6WdK62_rGbBwG7MR1l45qhWVuMlEEA0mYQ/IMG_0904.JPG?psid=1


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p4qTbfK5oLd_I03h7b0ftktC3dj3We2jCVCw0thbENf-pute1HU1F2VUP4ng_2jsCapvxUT1m1LRBu5xEArDxxQ/IMG_0906.JPG?psid=1



https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pfI1FkIqfpu-n-dsa9YLdOOGpHmNfKkaQ8rP5hqgmy0NDbNcd5PACo_2wa7pJFzW GVC8N-2PYWkv9Af_wVn5MEQ/IMG_0907.JPG?psid=1


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1ps4-yViFG_-wFVGbslT6nTkBfSjo7F17dCZ-G-XkcWUGCubiypINbR7Jn4Pn1uyqSr2skH0e7IIilPkwpW7s-7g/IMG_0908.JPG?psid=1

[crash]

I don't mean to throw a monkey wrench in here or anything, and I haven't looked at what, if anything the build manual has to say about this, but when I set out to modify my body and "assembled" everything on the frame table to take measurements and get a feel for what lay ahead, I noticed immediately that the nose is MEANT to have a 1/2 inch splitter mounted under it. Without it, the nose sat "funny" and none of the gaps were right at the place where the front quarter panels and hood meet. Adding the 1/2 inch spacer to the nose brought all the gaps up correctly.

If you are having trouble with the rear hood gaps to the body, it is my suggestion that you look at tightening those up and raising the front of the nose as opposed to filling in the gaps at the rear.

Just how I figured it should be done, but maybe others will chime in as to where issues were and what they did to address them. Looks like you are kind of beyond that decision point, so maybe this will be of some benefit to future readers?

Note, mine was a Gen I body, but it appears that this issue hasn't changed with the new noses.

[VD2021]

I don't mean to throw a monkey wrench in here or anything, and I haven't looked at what, if anything the build manual has to say about this, but when I set out to modify my body and "assembled" everything on the frame table to take measurements and get a feel for what lay ahead, I noticed immediately that the nose is MEANT to have a 1/2 inch splitter mounted under it. Without it, the nose sat "funny" and none of the gaps were right at the place where the front quarter panels and hood meet. Adding the 1/2 inch spacer to the nose brought all the gaps up correctly.

If you are having trouble with the rear hood gaps to the body, it is my suggestion that you look at tightening those up and raising the front of the nose as opposed to filling in the gaps at the rear.

Just how I figured it should be done, but maybe others will chime in as to where issues were and what they did to address them. Looks like you are kind of beyond that decision point, so maybe this will be of some benefit to future readers?

Note, mine was a Gen I body, but it appears that this issue hasn't changed with the new noses.

Crash,
Where does the 1/2 spacer go exactly? My hood is mounted with the hinges still loose as per the manual so this is right on time is it helps with the way that area mates. I know w i nned to measure, center and get the hood where I should be before working that area and the latches, but should I mount my cf splitter too? The passenger side is worse that the driver's.

[Kempo]

I don't mean to throw a monkey wrench in here or anything, and I haven't looked at what, if anything the build manual has to say about this, but when I set out to modify my body and "assembled" everything on the frame table to take measurements and get a feel for what lay ahead, I noticed immediately that the nose is MEANT to have a 1/2 inch splitter mounted under it. Without it, the nose sat "funny" and none of the gaps were right at the place where the front quarter panels and hood meet. Adding the 1/2 inch spacer to the nose brought all the gaps up correctly.

If you are having trouble with the rear hood gaps to the body, it is my suggestion that you look at tightening those up and raising the front of the nose as opposed to filling in the gaps at the rear.

Just how I figured it should be done, but maybe others will chime in as to where issues were and what they did to address them. Looks like you are kind of beyond that decision point, so maybe this will be of some benefit to future readers?

Note, mine was a Gen I body, but it appears that this issue hasn't changed with the new noses.

I never saw anything about a 1/2 inch splitter on the manual. The hood sits against the top of the two aluminum panels that are behind the front suspension. It won't go down any further on the sides where it meets the body. At least in my case. Can you check that on yours Vidal?

[crash]

Well, here's the thing. I don't have an entire kit. I got only a Gen I body for my project.

When I layed out all the body panels on a flat surface, it was quite apparent to me that the nose did not fit right. It was off by A LOT. I then looked at some of the pictures on the FFR website and noticed the splitter on all the pics.

I looked at the nose again and decided, sure enough, a spacer under the front would help the gapping issues. Played around with blocks of aluminum and found that about 1/2 inch material put under both sides about where the fog light recesses are brought everything up to where it was supposed to be.

Now I don't know if the aluminum panels already hold the nose up in this position or not, but if you are having trouble with the rear gapping, then you my want to drop the car onto the ground so the body is literally touching the ground, or use some spacer blocks if there is anything that hangs down below the lowest point of the body, and then see where the nose height is.

Again, on mine the nose ended up about 1/2 inch higher in the front than the rest of the body. If the front aluminum panels are hitting, then you may want to trim them.

Just as an aside, I'm pretty sure that these aluminum panels had to be trimmed on the FFR PDG GTM when the new body was put on.

[Kempo]

Well, here's the thing. I don't have an entire kit. I got only a Gen I body for my project.

When I layed out all the body panels on a flat surface, it was quite apparent to me that the nose did not fit right. It was off by A LOT. I then looked at some of the pictures on the FFR website and noticed the splitter on all the pics.

I looked at the nose again and decided, sure enough, a spacer under the front would help the gapping issues. Played around with blocks of aluminum and found that about 1/2 inch material put under both sides about where the fog light recesses are brought everything up to where it was supposed to be.

Now I don't know if the aluminum panels already hold the nose up in this position or not, but if you are having trouble with the rear gapping, then you my want to drop the car onto the ground so the body is literally touching the ground, or use some spacer blocks if there is anything that hangs down below the lowest point of the body, and then see where the nose height is.

Again, on mine the nose ended up about 1/2 inch higher in the front than the rest of the body. If the front aluminum panels are hitting, then you may want to trim them.

Just as an aside, I'm pretty sure that these aluminum panels had to be trimmed on the FFR PDG GTM when the new body was put on.

I thought about trimming the panels but there might be interference between the rear of the hood and the windshield wiper arm if the hood goes lower in the back.

[VD2021]

I never saw anything about a 1/2 inch splitter on the manual. The hood sits against the top of the two aluminum panels that are behind the front suspension. It won't go down any further on the sides where it meets the body. At least in my case. Can you check that on yours Vidal?

It's the same as yours. With the passenger side being the worst of the two. Just looking at it, it appears it was cut from the mold too short. But then you notice that the top (hood) doesn't match the bottom (body) in length with the hood being shorter. This makes it appear that the hood side has too much material and removing it would bring it to match better......., but the hood will not come down any more there. I'm going to build the area with 3m panel boding and fg, also bringing the top/rear hood peace aft to match at the bottom and cover the door's seam in that area.

[VD2021]

Well, here's the thing. I don't have an entire kit. I got only a Gen I body for my project.

When I layed out all the body panels on a flat surface, it was quite apparent to me that the nose did not fit right. It was off by A LOT. I then looked at some of the pictures on the FFR website and noticed the splitter on all the pics.

I looked at the nose again and decided, sure enough, a spacer under the front would help the gapping issues. Played around with blocks of aluminum and found that about 1/2 inch material put under both sides about where the fog light recesses are brought everything up to where it was supposed to be.

Now I don't know if the aluminum panels already hold the nose up in this position or not, but if you are having trouble with the rear gapping, then you my want to drop the car onto the ground so the body is literally touching the ground, or use some spacer blocks if there is anything that hangs down below the lowest point of the body, and then see where the nose height is.

Again, on mine the nose ended up about 1/2 inch higher in the front than the rest of the body. If the front aluminum panels are hitting, then you may want to trim them.

Just as an aside, I'm pretty sure that these aluminum panels had to be trimmed on the FFR PDG GTM when the new body was put on.


I thought about trimming the panels but there might be interference between the rear of the hood and the windshield wiper arm if the hood goes lower in the back.


The hood hinges attach behind the fog lights. It would require fabing a new bracket in order to have it mount lower there.

Bringing the hood down lowere in the back would likely require adding the Gen1 wiper hump to the hood as it is close now and may require adding some washers to the underside to draw it back into the body a little.

[crash]

Not trying to stir up trouble here or anything, just passing along what I found on my body.

It just seems odd to me that you would have to be adding what looks like a 1/2 inch of material or so to that area.

Shane?

Thinking the guy with arguably the most experience here with these cars in various forms might have a better answer/observation?

[spytech]

Not trying to stir up trouble here or anything, just passing along what I found on my body.

It just seems odd to me that you would have to be adding what looks like a 1/2 inch of material or so to that area.

Shane?

Thinking the guy with arguably the most experience here with these cars in various forms might have a better answer/observation?
Ahh I think I get what you are saying - you are adding shims behind the fog light recesses themselves (between body and mounting bracket) to 'move' the hood back on that given side, correct?

[crash]

Ahh I think I get what you are saying - you are adding shims behind the fog light recesses themselves (between body and mounting bracket) to 'move' the hood back on that given side, correct?

No. Not at all, as I don't have any of the hinges or anything other than the bodywork itself. I'm saying that my Gen I nose fit like crap with the body and nose sitting on a flat plane until I raised the front lip of the nose by 1/2 inch by putting blocks under that front lip.

Again, I don't know how it ends up on the frame/car, but from looking at the body by itself, on a flat work surface, it was apparent to me that the nose was not going to fit properly until the front of the nose was raised about 1/2 of an inch.

Just scratching my head as to why all that material needs to be added to the front quarter panels of the main section of the body, as is being shown in the pics. Something doesn't seem right, and I was asking for comments/observations/confirmations about the idea that raising the front of the nose may help this issue.

If there are clearance issues elsewhere that won't allow the nose to be positioned correctly without adding 1/2 inch of FG to that quarter panel area, then something is wrong and FFR really needs to know about it.

Again, because Shane has seen so many of these, I think it would be best if he could be one of the ones with an opinion/point of view.

[Kempo]

Haven't had a lot of time lately to work on the car but some more work got done on the body today. The mirrors were fitted, the body was cut at the rear for Shane's body louvers, the splitter was mocked up. Some more progress was done on the doors in order to fit the new sealing weather strips for the windows. Here are a few pictures.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!628:Scaled1024/IMG_0912.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pM19U4boRSNPdRrxWYY0g2lAOzP8Vy66KpPmfJyqpacasN7u OYNG3qGkS_ihK777Td5qr_-w0SP92UnS_FFW-5Q/IMG_0917.JPG?psid=1


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pC1diA_cNwdFA-w5t-vcoCuIgClLp-3Z6iE9yvgdDMqEjepKExi-8a6B8QIttmppkoxU63QijgI7JOZFtyhpFIg/IMG_0915.JPG?psid=1


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pST8dXHmhIJiNVrffHWd6679b_pU1mcLdcBCa4BP_S_UlVdd 23WxJo_re5giMqO_JQrza56fO0fDwf0k2drfbyQ/IMG_0913.JPG?psid=1


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1piQEgNJUfqzoShomuAIYKd7tbmm2SHAt_pyRHnXRtClBpyW3 q2_iTzwvAvrxCEpGIQgdLVNJ05Lebg9rKrNCuzA/IMG_0914.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p36wcrJv0uvyLdMKmYdYJtEI7i1alK_vFWkAkEC0-gNLuZAjFRiW8ckgPgJ7o_JIio7fU8aHSaE7IO6Lk2NYawg/IMG_0919.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

I got my IMI-140N starter. I only need a Mendeola to install it :( It was ordered from a company called Quality Power. They shipped it the same day that I placed my order and was the cheapest I could find. Here is a link to their site www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=109 I ordered the one that has the N in the part number as it is supposed to have more torque than the standard IMI-140. With my stock engine it might be overkill but for just $20 more I'm good to go if in the future I decide to mod the engine and bump the compression on it.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!634:Scaled1024/IMG_0928.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!636:Scaled1024/IMG_0934.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!637:Scaled1024/IMG_0935.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


Some more work was done on the body. The door latches got covered again with fiber glass in order to expose only the locking mechanism. Tomorrow if should get another layer of FG and the rest of the body should be ready to come off for sanding, filler and painting. More pictures tomorrow

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!638:Scaled1024/IMG_0926.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[VD2021]

K,
I am doing the same to my door latches. For me it for a few reason. I need to continue the production car theme and I'm doing door locks so I had to trim the upper portion of the original door latch area away.

I finished mocking up the nose aluminum. I had to take two inches from the rear of the "U" shaped piece. I also had to take some of the angle out of the bend on the front and use the top of the two inch strip I cut off, after putting about a 40 degree break in it, on the front of the "U" shaped nose piece for attachment to the top of the nose opening.

[Kempo]

K,

I finished mocking up the nose aluminum. I had to take two inches from the rear of the "U" shaped piece. I also had to take some of the angle out of the bend on the front and use the top of the two inch strip I cut off, after putting about a 40 degree break in it, on the front of the "U" shaped nose piece for attachment to the top of the nose opening.

Vidal,
I was looking at your pictures the other day and saw that aluminum. I didn't arrive on my boxes and is not listed on my components list. I called FFR and they are sending it. I will use your pictures and this post as reference on installing it since I can't find any info on the manual I have. Thanks for the tips and pictures on your site.

Hugo

[Kempo]

The roof scoop got most of it's filler today and most of the lines on the body were sanded. It's amazing the amount of dust that is all over my garage as you can see in some of pictures.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!639:Scaled1024/IMG_0939.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!640:Scaled1024/IMG_0940.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!643:Scaled1024/IMG_0937.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!642:Scaled1024/IMG_0943.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Stage7]

Very nice project and progress Kempo. Bodyfiller dust is the worst...well next to fiberglass dust.

[The Stig]

I love the door latch covers that you fabbed. Very clean and professional looking. I also like what you're doing with the door window seals.

You've been busy!

Great Work!

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Not trying to stir up trouble here or anything, just passing along what I found on my body.

It just seems odd to me that you would have to be adding what looks like a 1/2 inch of material or so to that area.

Shane?

Thinking the guy with arguably the most experience here with these cars in various forms might have a better answer/observation?


The bottom of the GTM chassis and the bottom of the leading edge of the hood are not at the same level. The whole chassis slopes upward from the main 1.5" square tube that runs the width of the chassis on forward. If you sight across the bottom of the alum pan below the radiator, and also across the very bottom of the car, you will see that they are not at the same level.......the front of the nose needs to line up with the plane of the rad alum.....not the bottom of the car.

[crash]

So the nose sits higher than the rest of the body? Even when using the FFR splitter?

That sounds rather odd. Any ideas why this would be the case?

And also any ideas why all the added material is needed in the above pictures?

Are you seeing the need for this added material in the Gen II you have now?

[Kempo]

Very nice project and progress Kempo. Bodyfiller dust is the worst...well next to fiberglass dust.


I love the door latch covers that you fabbed. Very clean and professional looking. I also like what you're doing with the door window seals.

You've been busy!

Great Work!

Thanks for the nice comments.

[Kempo]

And also any ideas why all the added material is needed in the above pictures?

Are you seeing the need for this added material in the Gen II you have now?

Crash,
The material at this moment is not as much as it was when those pictures were taken, at least on one side the other one is in the works. It has now been sanded and rounded and there is now about 3/16 of an inch of material left in there. There is now gap between the body and the hood of a bit less then 3/16.

As for why this might have been necessary maybe is a combination of two things, the first one is that I'm too picky about things like gaps and the other one which I had not even noticed until you asked why had this material had to be added. I think that I drilled and riveted the side panels that support the hood a bit too high. I riveted them in the same location that they came bolted to the frame from FFR. After reading you post I took a second look and noticed I could have riveted them maybe 1/8 or a 1/4 of an inch lower, that that and that would have allowed the hood to go a bit lower. Still it doesn't isn't that much higher than my friend's Kenny's GTM when measured from the rear of the hood to where the lower part of windshield rests on the body.

[VD2021]

Crash,
The material at this moment is not as much as it was when those pictures were taken, at least on one side the other one is in the works. It has now been sanded and rounded and there is now about 3/16 of an inch of material left in there. There is now gap between the body and the hood of a bit less then 3/16.

As for why this might have been necessary maybe is a combination of two things, the first one is that I'm too picky about things like gaps and the other one which I had not even noticed until you asked why had this material had to be added. I think that I drilled and riveted the side panels that support the hood a bit too high. I riveted them in the same location that they came bolted to the frame from FFR. After reading you post I took a second look and noticed I could have riveted them maybe 1/8 or a 1/4 of an inch lower, that that and that would have allowed the hood to go a bit lower. Still it doesn't isn't that much higher than my friend's Kenny's GTM when measured from the rear of the hood to where the lower part of windshield rests on the body.

I was adjusting my hood and noticed that the passenger side was higher. I do still need to lower and set the ride height, but I could tell something was not right. I checked the aluminum and didn't notice a problem then I saw it. The headlight bucket's inside corner under the turn signal is contacting the hinge mount. I tried adjustion the hood with no luck. After seeking advice the only option is to grind the area (about a 1/4") and fill the bucket area. I am also hoping that some of the space above the wheel and the hood goes away with my ride height ajustment, but we'll see.

I've been looking at pictures of an many GTMs as possible to see how this area looks. I've notice that on almost all of them that the aft portion of the hood is a little short. Looking at my car it looks to me as if the hood was designed to be mounted (in this area) about .75" lower so that the wheel well and the aft portion line up Or that the hood was cut short from the mold leaving the gap...........?

[Kempo]

The headlight bucket's inside corner under the turn signal is contacting the hinge mount. I tried adjusting the hood with no luck. After seeking advice the only option is to grind the area (about a 1/4") and fill the bucket area. I am also hoping that some of the space above the wheel and the hood goes away with my ride height ajustment, but we'll see.

Thanks for the heads up. I will look at my headlight bucket tonight to see if there is a problem. That gap is the other thing bothering me on the right side. That wheel well looks like it has the shape of an egg instead of being rounded as the one on the left. That makes that gap look larger. I also have a different gap between the front an rear of the tire in relation to the wheel well only on the right of the car. I measured from various points of the frame to the same points on the A arms on both sides and everything has the same distances. and the suspension settings are all in the same location an yet I have this gap in there. I have looked around for pictures of GTMs taken from the right side haven't found many of not any. Don't know if this is common and that's why people avoid taking pictures of the right side. We will soon be cutting and redoing that wheel well.

[crash]

I must comment that on my body, a mid build # Gen I, the front wheel openings are off quite a bit. The place I can see the biggest difference side to side is in the nub that sticks forward near the latch area. I can't remember which side was longer, but one side was about an inch longer than the other and it carried down into the wheel opening. I want to say the drivers side was longer, but I can't remember and I cut this area out of my body.

Maybe somebody can check and see if this is how other bodies are also.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

So the nose sits higher than the rest of the body? Even when using the FFR splitter?

That sounds rather odd. Any ideas why this would be the case?

And also any ideas why all the added material is needed in the above pictures?

Are you seeing the need for this added material in the Gen II you have now?

If you have the nose adjusted correctly, the half-moon that gets rivetted to the hood ends up about dead-nuts level with the tray under the radiator. I don't know what or if there is a reason for this other than to gain some ground clearnace at the nose so it isn't dragging across every little bump in the road.

As for how it fits at the rear of the hood to the body......I usually build up the edge of the hood vs. the lip on the body....but the end result is pretty much the same.

Yes, so far, it's looking like the Gen II hood fits exactly like the Gen I hood and will require all the same cutting, filling and grinding that I've been doing on all of the Gen I's. Yes, the passenger side wheel arch is severely egg shaped and I try to do some cutting and pasting of that area to make it more round, but have not tackled trying to get rid of that effect all together as it would pretty much require re-doing that entire side of the hood........and it's an area that has to take a ton of flex as the hood is opened, closed and latched......and I don't feel comfortable making any kind of major body mods in a location like that for fear that once it has $10k worth of paint on it, the first time I open and close the hood, I'll hear a crack as the hood latches.....and will not like what I see.

[Kempo]

Got the nose vents and the rocker panel extensions trimmed and mocked up. Some more work was done on the body today and it is almost ready to come off again for primer and paint. Here are some pictures more to come by the weekend.


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!658:Scaled1024/IMG_0967.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1piw04W1n9zetewNEzOIavgZ5UrrF9ofstU4IzWnxVtaGpwPG lKuWdguZrvlzfFbQW60eN35-ubfk/IMG_0968.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p701NcoqOUSH1lIediNNQPKpcpxSalHz0bBDZ9egPuTTidY4 r9XC7-NVxUmZRJwcy5d22qHlx7gc/IMG_0970.JPG?psid=1


https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1py7VN4bA6aqMD6bXf1MzJK-I5IHlPNkKUnx4iiodRyy0nWGtDNCwlsu8haB_c1YF9tQwIKFd8 a5E/IMG_0971.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

Update on the wiring:

There has been a change on the electrical system. I originally posted that a company called SSP Wiring was making a full chassis harness and the engine harness. That has now changed. When I placed my order I was told that it would take about a month for the harnesses to be made. That date was delayed and changed time and time again until I got tired of waiting and listening to different stories. After four months of wait they sent me the engine harness which was useless without the chassis harness since it had a connector to take power and send signals to the instrument panel and ECU thru the custom chassis harness they were supposed to make. So six and a half months,many emails and many unanswered phone calls later I decided to cancel that order and ordering the ISIS system. For the engine harness I contacted Speartech and they are making one for me. Too bad I didn't Google SSP Wiring before making my order. I found out some interesting stuff about that company.

Hope no one thinks I'm bashing SSP Wiring, just giving a heads up to fellow builders. I'm just posting my experience with them although others might have had better results. I must admit that the looks and workmanship on the engine harness was second to none.

[Kalstar]

Thank you.....big time! You just saved me a bunch of trouble. I have been dealing with SSP on a stand alone, after a google search, I am happy to pay a few $100 more not to waste time and have my parts half a country away.

[VD2021]

K,
Don't forget to trim the light openings in the buckets. All three are just undersized and the turn signal's mount is larger than the one in the manual and requires some trimming of the underside of the bucket.

Do your hood inserts have the cf weave in the outer edge? I can see the weave in the interior, very nice.

Can't wait to see it in color with the cf accents.....

[VD2021]

K,
Do you have any pictures of how the roof scoop vents into the engine bay? Thanks.

[afourcault]

must say your build looks and sounds like its coming together quit nicely. im very impressed

[VD2021]

afourcault,
What do you know about the echo you have as your avatar?

[Kempo]

K,
Don't forget to trim the light openings in the buckets. All three are just undersized and the turn signal's mount is larger than the one in the manual and requires some trimming of the underside of the bucket.

Do your hood inserts have the cf weave in the outer edge? I can see the weave in the interior, very nice.

Can't wait to see it in color with the cf accents.....


Thanks for the heads up on the lights and the trimming of the signal. I was planning on fitting those after removing the hood. I think it would be easier without the frame of suspension on the way.

The outside edge of the of the inserts do not have the CF weave, they are black. I'm planning on painting the edges gray as in Dave's car to conceal the imperfections on the clear resin and the black color.


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!665:Scaled1024/Vents.jpg?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

must say your build looks and sounds like its coming together quit nicely. im very impressed

Thanks for the compliment.

[Kempo]

K,
Do you have any pictures of how the roof scoop vents into the engine bay? Thanks.

Here is the best I could take. I forgot to take one before attaching the scoop. This one was taken from the inside of the left rear wheel well. Had to take it from down there because the rear hatch opening is covered at the moment. You can see the slot behind the roll bar tube.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!663:Scaled1024/IMG_0975.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!660:Scaled1024/IMG_0973.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!659:Scaled1024/IMG_0972.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[VD2021]

K,
Perfect. Thanks.

[Kempo]

After being told by Jason from FFR that the Mendeola will use cables for the shifter controls instead of the rods that came included in the kit that prevent from using this fitting I decided to order it from Lingenfelter. It allows for an outlet and inlet for an oil cooler. It has two -10 AN fittings for the oil cooler and has two additional ports. One for oil temp gauge and the other one can be used for a oil pressure gauge or to supply oil for a turbo or S/C. Using this I plan on routing the hoses to the oil cooler on my radiator. I comes with all the needed hardware and gasket.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!669:Scaled1024/IMG_0979.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!670:Scaled1024/IMG_0981.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!668:Scaled1024/IMG_0980.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!671:Scaled1024/IMG_0983.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!666:Scaled1024/IMG_0986.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

The oil cooler (This FG and filler dust is everywhere as you can see)

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!667:Scaled1024/IMG_0988.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[The Stig]

Hey Buddy,

I love reading through this thread to see what you've done next. You are using some really nice mods. I'm really liking the Lingenfelter Eng Oil cooler set up. Very Compact and looks like it will keep the lines tucked out of the way as much as possible. I'd put some sort of heat shield around them though, since they're between the headers and the block. Very nice!

[VD2021]

After being told by Jason from FFR that the Mendeola will use cables for the shifter controls instead of the rods that came included in the kit that prevent from using this fitting I decided to order it from Lingenfelter. It allows for an outlet and inlet for an oil cooler. It has two -10 AN fittings for the oil cooler and has two additional ports. One for oil temp gauge and the other one can be used for a oil pressure gauge or to supply oil for a turbo or S/C. Using this I plan on routing the hoses to the oil cooler on my radiator. I comes with all the needed hardware and gasket.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!669:Scaled1024/IMG_0979.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720



K,
Does it accept the stock oil temp sensor without any adapters?

[dbusa]

Hello Kempo - they make a nice bypass unit - you may find you need to put a spacer between the block and the bypass , in order to get the clearance needed for the AN fittings / lines . It's an easy remmedy if you have interferance issues -

on a side note - if anyone else is looking for a bypass adaptor- I have a brand new one ( lingenfelter like the one above) and setrab cooler for sale - sorry about the hijack ......

[Kempo]

K,
Does it accept the stock oil temp sensor without any adapters?

Vidal,

I'm not sure since my crate engine didn't have the temp sensor so I don't have one to test fit. I assume it is made to accept it since this is a Vette part. The front port which is the one for the temp sensor has a M12x 1.5 thread. Check the thread on your sensor if that is what it has it should work.

Stig,

Thanks for the heads up on the temperature issues with the headers. I think I will wrap the lines in some insulating/heat reflecting material. I will be going out to get the lines and fittings later today and install them tonight.

[dbusa]

Hello Kempo - aeroquip makes a very good insulated fire sleeving/ jacket - it's the orangish colored sleeving used on aircraft - pricey but well worth it. Some hydraulic line companies will carry it or check with an aviation supply company, or your local airport may have an fbo with parts dept - it will probably cost the most at the fbo, but you never know. It's proven ,used on most race cars also, - some of the new flashy heat barriers look nice but I don't know how they compare quality and life wise.

[Kempo]

Some more work got done on the body. The gaps on the hood are ready and the filler has started going on to the hood. The body will probably come of next week just in time for the arrival of the ISIS.


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!672:Scaled1024/IMG_0990.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!673:Scaled1024/IMG_0991.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

I also received the mounting kit for the Gen II diffuser. IMO the spacers that cover the bolts are too thin. They look out of place back there. I called a friend and he made me a set of 1/2 in. in diameter spacers.the ones sent from FFR measure .384 as seen in the picture with a quarter for size comparison. Here are a few pictures of the 1/2 in. mocked up the will now come of and go out for some black paint.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!675:Scaled1024/IMG_0992.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!674:Scaled1024/IMG_0993.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!677:Scaled1024/IMG_0996.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!676:Scaled1024/IMG_0994.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

I also started working on the bracket for the canton header tank. Decided to make some mods to the bottom fitting to weld some aluminum piping and avoid using the brass fittings. This complete aluminum set up will be black anodized so that it will not stand out from the rest of the engine bay.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!678:Scaled1024/IMG_0997.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!679:Scaled1024/IMG_0998.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!680:Scaled1024/IMG_0999.JPG?

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!681:Scaled1024/IMG_1001.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!682:Scaled1024/IMG_1003.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[afourcault]

afourcault,
What do you know about the echo you have as your avatar? well it was what I rode in a couple of times when I had to send out casevacs when I was in the sandbox. I was an 8404 once apon a time.. Some days I miss it. Why what's up?

[VD2021]

well it was what I rode in a couple of times when I had to send out casevacs when I was in the sandbox. I was an 8404 once apon a time.. Some days I miss it. Why what's up?

If you were in the the sandbox from Aug 2004 through Feb 2005 and Feb 2006 through Oct 2006 there's a good chance I was up front in the right seat.

[afourcault]

Nope aug08 mar09 at haditha

[Kempo]

I received from Wally the door frames. He took them to his shop for painting. I told him just to give some black color to prevent rust. Being the perfectionist he is he even clear coated them.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!683:Scaled1024/IMG_1007.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!684:Scaled1024/IMG_1006.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!685:Scaled1024/IMG_1008.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[The Stig]

Great Stuff Hugo!

[Kempo]

Great Stuff Hugo!


Thanks, Stig. I really like the way yours is coming along. You should be on the road quite soon.

[Kempo]

After being lost in the mail for a few days my ISIS System finally showed up this Saturday. I started mocking up Shane's ISIS mounts and identifying all cables. This should be a very easy and straight forward install as soon as I remove the body, probably tomorrow. The hardest part will be finding the best spots to run the cables in order for them to be safe from heat sources. I'm planing on using some insulation on the most heat exposed areas. Here are a few pictures more to come.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!686:Scaled1024/IMG_1021.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!687:Scaled1024/IMG_1019.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!688:Scaled1024/IMG_1023.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[kabacj]

Hi Kempo

What is your opinion on the Isis system. Easy to install? I'm on the fence regarding if I should get the upgrade and was just wondering your impression so far.

Thanks

John

[Kempo]

Hi Kempo

What is your opinion on the Isis system. Easy to install? I'm on the fence regarding if I should get the upgrade and was just wondering your impression so far.

Thanks

John

HI John,

So far I have only prepared (drilled for rivets and bolts) the places where the cells will be located and mocked up the routing of the cables for the rear cell. So I can't tell you at a 100% how easy it will be to install but, after reading the install instructions this should be way easier than the painless. All the switches in the column will need two connections one to the master cell about 5 inches away and the other can be just pulled to ground on a single connection. The amount and length of cables that I will need to run and hide along the car are very minimal.

Hugo

[Kempo]

I hope that porn is not banned in this site because this week the GTM started to feel sexy and is getting naked. :D The body is coming of for paint. It should be off tomorrow and I can get back to working on the wiring during the weekend. My package from Speartech arrived today with my engine harness, ECU, gas pedal and MAF sensor. With all that I should be good to go on the electrical stuff. I must say that Speartech did an excellent job on the harness. All connectors have a label on them and a diagram was also included. It even has a check engine light by the OBDII connector. I wasn't expecting a check engine light on it. He also incorporated a cable to connect a switch on the gas pedal to turn off the A/C compressor at wide open throttle. It also has a fuel pump relay and the + cable for the pump so that the ECU can turn the pump on and off. Two cables are also included to control the fans from the ECU via relays. The best thing is that all was done by the time he promised and I was never charged a cent until it was ready to be shipped. I would recommend Speartech to anyone. A great buying experience especially after the nightmare with SSP Wiring. Here are a few pictures.


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!697:Scaled1024/IMG_1036.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!698:Scaled1024/IMG_1038.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!699:Scaled1024/IMG_1039.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!696:Scaled1024/IMG_1037.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!691:Scaled1024/IMG_1031.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!692:Scaled1024/IMG_1032.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!694:Scaled1024/IMG_1034.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!695:Scaled1024/IMG_1035.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!700:Scaled1024/IMG_1040.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!690:Scaled1024/IMG_1024.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

After doing some cleaning in the garage and by some I mean more than 4 hours the floor now shines again and the chassis is not covered in tan dust anymore. That filler dust was everywhere. The body is now off the chassis and waiting for final preparation and paint.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!704:Scaled1024/IMG_1051.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!705:Scaled1024/IMG_1052.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


With the time left on the day I started the install of my engine harness,ECU and the bracket that holds the fuel filter. I decided to leave two of the four attachment points on the brackets unused and in the air to attach an aluminum heat shield that will protect the fuel lines,pump and filter from the exhaust header heat. I still need to fabricate that one.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!706:Scaled1024/IMG_1050.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!703:Scaled1024/IMG_1049.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!701:Scaled1024/IMG_1047.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!702:Scaled1024/IMG_1044.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[riptide motorsport]

Outstanding job!:cool:

[blackenedheart]

Just watching this build... Are you a mechanic by trade? This build looks daunting to the untrained eye...

This is all very impressive.

Best,

Julian
Dallas, TX
2000 Camaro SS
SLP LS1

[LCD Gauges]

I'll have to start carrying tissue when opening these threads.

Nice work!

[Movieman]

I'll have to start carrying boxes of tissue when opening these threads.

Nice work!
Fixed!:D

[Kempo]

Thanks, for the nice comments guys. Those comments reassure me that I'm moving in the right direction as this is my first kit build and sometimes I have some big doubts on what I'm doing. This Forum and the FFcars forum and it's members have been priceless in helping me move forward with the GTM. I've been a member of various car related forums over the past years and hands down the FFR community is the friendliest and most helpful of them all. Thanks to all the guys that have answered my PMs with my numerous questions.

blackenedheart, I did went to school to become a mechanic but as life went by I never did it to earn my living. Instead my brother and I started an auto parts retail business that has been very good to us and has allowed me to work as a mechanic for myself since I enjoy it so much.

00SS_M6LS1, Really like your new signature. If you are like me this next 6 days must seem like 6 months wile you wait for your new GTM.

[Roger Reid]

Clean looking build. I like it.

[blackenedheart]

Just curious how you guys feel about the Katech tensioner... I just installed one on my LS1 Camaro SS and it feels pretty nice. Not extremely simple, and it's tricky to get the belt back on, but it's worth the hassle. I couldn't get used to a plastic composite pulley!

http://cdn.nexternal.com/katech/images/KAT-A4424-BLK%20lowres2.jpg

[crash]

Just curious how you guys feel about the...

With having only two posts and a topic that has virtually nothing to do with the current place in the thread, I'm thinking this is nothing more than a shameless plug.

I should know, as some would call me the King Of The Shameless Plug...:)

Hope this forum doesn't get over run with this crap!

[riptide motorsport]

I going to bet against you on thay call crash!.....:p

[LCD Gauges]

Yes Kempo, this last week and going forward to Saturday has been/will be nerve racking and intense.

I've been drooling in the sidelines long enough and can't wait to become a part of this awesome group
of car enthusiasts. You have all inspired me to chase this dream and work extra hard to make it happen.

Hopefully my car will be at least half as nice as the cars seen on this forum! Anyway, enough about me...
back to your thread!

[blackenedheart]

Pardon me Mr. Crash... I would have more respect for your reply if it wasn't coming from a person who managed to crash a $100k supercar into a fire hydrant. Either way, it wasn't a shameless plug at all. The LS series engines are all known to throw belts at the tensioner pulley. Any old guy that goes to the track with his stock Camaro on Sundays can tell you that... you guys are building a supercar and not addressing a very basic known issue. The tensioner is made of plastic!

And what about aftermarket intakes and fuel rails? The GM intake is plastic too! Very weak.

The Katech is a great product... And I'm just trying to help... And I was addressing the Original Poster.

Best,

Julian,
Dallas, TX

[Kempo]

Julian,

I have a cousin that uses the Katech tensioner in his Camaro. It solved his belt problems as you described. He told me it was a must for my GTM. I'm considering it at the moment but I will wait til the car is a t gokart stage to test how the stock one works. Thanks for the heads up.

[crash]

Pardon me Mr. Crash... I would have more respect for your reply if it wasn't coming from a person who managed to crash a $100k supercar into a fire hydrant.


LOL :)

Sorry if it was a legitiment post. You just sounded/looked too much like a spammer, so I thought I would probe a little.

The idler pulley issues are widely known and a number of "fixes" have been discussed, mostly on the "other" forum. ;)

Welcome to the board...that's what I meant to say...really! :)




PS- As of this date I have never crashed a GTM, although I will say this with a grain of salt over the shoulder as I routinely go 130+ MPH in someone elses GTM! ;)

[VD2021]

Julian,

I have a cousin that uses the Katech tensioner in his Camaro. It solved his belt problems as you described. He told me it was a must for my GTM. I'm considering it at the moment but I will wait til the car is a t gokart stage to test how the stock one works. Thanks for the heads up.

Its also in a location where its not hard to get to if you wanted to address it later.

[Kempo]

Installed the gas pedal today. As a heads up for those using the newer pedal, I had to drill a new hole on the template for the pedal. Not sure if it is because it is the newer LS3/LS7 pedal that has the straight connector instead of the older one that has two rows of pins on it. If I had used the holes on the template the pedal would had not fitted in there. Maybe FFR should add this hole to the template for the newer pedals. I also had to cut part of the bracket on the pedal where the holes for the bolts are in order to clear the pedal box. In the end it is a perfect fit. I tried to install it as close as possible to the brake pedal to aid on the heel and toe on track days.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!710:Scaled1024/IMG_1061.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!712:Scaled1024/IMG_1058.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!713:Scaled1024/IMG_1063.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!711:Scaled1024/IMG_1062.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


After the install of the pedal I continued working on the electrical stuff. With the help of the pin out posted by Spytech (thanks again BTW) I identified the wires that I will need for the inputs and grounding on the ISIS mastercell. I separated from the 23 pin connector the wires that will be used and now will get a connector for the amount of wires need in order to reduce the size of that huge 23 pin connector. Also installed Shane's mastercell mount for the mastercell on the drivers side and installed another mastercell mount on the passenger side but bent on the other direction so that it would fit the other side for the Inmotion cell that will control the side windows.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!709:Scaled1024/IMG_1055.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!708:Scaled1024/IMG_1054.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!707:Scaled1024/IMG_1053.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[ArtGirl]

Having received the update on the Mendeola transaxle and clarification on what clutch can be used I ordered an LS7 clutch kit.

Is there any difference between the LS7 and LS3 clutch?

[Kempo]

Is there any difference between the LS7 and LS3 clutch?

The torque rating may be different I'm not sure. Physically they are the same. I was now told by Ian a few weeks back it won't fit the Mendeola on the GTM. It has to be the LS1 flat flywheel one. That now leaves me with a LS7/LS3 clutch and flywheel for sale if any of you corvettes owner out there need one.

[ArtGirl]

The torque rating may be different I'm not sure. Physically they are the same. I was now told by Ian a few weeks back it won't fit the Mendeola on the GTM. It has to be the LS1 flat flywheel one. That now leaves me with a LS7/LS3 clutch and flywheel for sale if any of you corvettes owner out there need one.

Watching with interest, as I'm sorting this out too. Not sure why the flywheel needs to be the flat one. I thought the type of clutch determined that, not the transmission. I'm missing a piece to this puzzle somewhere.

[Kempo]

Watching with interest, as I'm sorting this out too. Not sure why the flywheel needs to be the flat one. I thought the type of clutch determined that, not the transmission. I'm missing a piece to this puzzle somewhere.

It seems like the bell housing on the Mendeola has a very limited space. This limited space is why the flat flywheel is required or the clutch cover would hit the bell housing. The same thing happens with the starter. The stock GM starter has a snout that covers the gear that cover won't clear the bell housing. This is why we need the IMI-140. At least this is what I understood from Ian's explanation.

[LCD Gauges]

The LS series engines are all known to throw belts at the tensioner pulley. Any old guy that goes to the track with his stock Camaro on Sundays can tell you that... you guys are building a supercar and not addressing a very basic known issue. The tensioner is made of plastic!

And what about aftermarket intakes and fuel rails? The GM intake is plastic too! Very weak.

That's a new one for me. I belong to an F-body club and have two friends with 99/02 WS-6. We've all gone racing several times and no report of a belt
falling off. I'm not saying it's a false claim, but nobody in the group has mentioned this issue. Even my SS being stock at one point and then modified
never tossed a belt up to 6500 RPM shifts.

The composite intakes (although small volume for most applications) is a "dry" intake and also handles heat quite well. Aside from being weaker than aluminum
and possibly allowing the block to flex more on the top end, it's good for 500+ HP naturally aspirated (LS6 intake).

Maybe the car club and my buddies had the LS motors built from Tuesday to Thursday? :D

[Kempo]

Work on the electrical side has been slow since I was waiting for some connectors,loom etc. But the reason I'm posting right now is to let you guys know how pleased I am with the customer support at ISIS. I have called twice with some questions and talked to Mike. He was on the phone with me for some time and cleared up all my questions without any rush to hang up and move to the other stuff he might have had to do. Big thumbs up for Mike. Just Five minutes ago I got a call from Dan Martinez from ISIS. He was just calling to check up how it was all going and if I had any questions on the install. Talk about customer support. If anyone is having doubts about using the ISIS or not because you are worried about customer/technical support after the sale my advice based on my experience is pull the trigger they are A+++++++++++

[The Stig]

I think we need more updates and pictures or we're in danger of going into GTM info withdrawal! :)

[VD2021]

I think we need more updates and pictures or we're in danger of going into GTM info withdrawal! :)

I second that.

[Kempo]

I'm sorry to say there aren't many updates. Haven't had a lot of time to work on the GTM lately and the little stuff I have done is hardly noticeable. This wiring part look isn't as gratifying in viewable results as the previous stages. Here are a few pictures

I decided to add some loom and tee to the injectors and coils wiring in the engine harness since I don't like the uncovered wires looked.

Before:
https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pp9PIAoQBevwK9ruCz0aoO3V5WZ-6rjMZjXiOGGuvYwSggKDSC6RNQdls2-J_mF-pqS2Yklqfh_A/IMG_1050.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pOnTo-SzDNGpHCeUNXRKJ5dwamvKraBgn9mpLajO3NlOR3DV-N2se08ORNy1ixjI3TLaDHxffrek/IMG_1044.JPG?psid=1

After:

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!717:Scaled1024/IMG_1080.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!714:Scaled1024/IMG_1076.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720








I also finished the wiring for the fuel pump and hanged the fuel pump relay at the rear hatch hinge mount.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!715:Scaled1024/IMG_1077.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!716:Scaled1024/IMG_1078.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!722:Scaled1024/IMG_1083.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

Used a flat bar to make a 45 degree part to connect the B+ cable to the starter and keep the B+ as far away as possible from the headers. (Still needs a connector and insulation) From there the cable will continues to a power distributor I installed to feed the ECU and the ISIS rear cell and any other stuff I might install that will need B+ power. I also need to make a small dent on the header to give more clearance to the starter B+ stud.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!724:Scaled1024/IMG_1091.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!719:Scaled1024/IMG_1081.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!718:Scaled1024/IMG_1079.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!721:Scaled1024/IMG_1082.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

This past Saturday Steve Kan from Lewisville,Texas came to PR to tune a few RX7's. This guy Is an amazing tuner and a great guy to deal with. My RX7 is a totally different beast now. It has a ton more HP and driveability is just perfect. You guys might be wondering "what does this has to do with the GTM?" Well while talking to him it turns out that he also tunes using HP tuners which is useful to us GTM owners. He has even tuned one GTM already a twin turbo GTM. I don't recall if it is from Texas or somewhere else. He showed me a few pictures of it and it's engine looks awesome. Here is a video of him finishing up the tune on my 7.


http://youtu.be/uOm3euYtVbo


If anyone needs a tuner that knows what is doing you can find him on facebook under kantuning.com and on his site www.kantuning.com

[mmaragos]

Seems like such a small world at times. It has been a while, but I had a modified FD too. I miss that car. Without a doubt, Steve Kan is an awesome tuner, that's great that you got him to tune your car.

[Kempo]

The wiring "fun" continues. The ISIS is almost finished. I also installed a battery disconnect switch to keep the battery from being drained when the car is not used for a long time. Another reason for the switch is to have a quick way to disconnect my battery in case of an emergency. I also installed some mesh covers on the 1/0 battery cables and other cables to help them blend better with the rest of the car.


https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!736:Scaled1024/IMG_1119.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!731:Scaled1024/IMG_1103.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!735:Scaled1024/IMG_1116.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!732:Scaled1024/IMG_1112.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

I pressure tested and installed most of my fuel and oil cooler hoses yesterday.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!728:Scaled1024/IMG_1099.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!733:Scaled1024/IMG_1114.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

My twin disc ACT LS1 clutch arrived last week only need the mendeola now to complete the drivetrain department.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!738:Scaled1024/IMG_1121.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

On the paint side the hood got it's primer today. The doors got the final prep to be primed next week and Shanes louvers are back from sand blasting and ready for paint.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!739:Scaled1024/IMG_1124.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!741:Scaled1024/IMG_1125.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!742:Scaled1024/IMG_1127.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!743:Scaled1024/IMG_1128.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!740:Scaled1024/IMG_1123.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[LCD Gauges]

Beautiful work; I love the choice of accessories and the clean install.

I'm curious to see how the starter B+ post clearance will turn out. It's a shame you'll end up denting the header tube.

Any chance that you can weld that bracket onto the starter post instead?

[Kempo]

Beautiful work; I love the choice of accessories and the clean install.

I'm curious to see how the starter B+ post clearance will turn out. It's a shame you'll end up denting the header tube.

Any chance that you can weld that bracket onto the starter post instead?

Thanks for the compliment and thanks for the welding the bracket idea. I will check with a welder friend of mine to see if it can be done. The stud on the starter is made out of what appears to be cooper and the bracket is made out of a galvanized flat bar. Not sure if those will weld together. There is also some plastic parts around that stud that might melt but I will not rule out that option.

[VD2021]

K,
Wow! You're close to a base coat. Have you come to a final decision on your paint scheme?

That looks smooth. Did you use polyester based primer?

You've made great progress. Once you transaxle arrives you'll be on the home stretch. Keep the pictures coming.

[Kempo]

K,
Wow! You're close to a base coat. Have you come to a final decision on your paint scheme?

That looks smooth. Did you use polyester based primer?

You've made great progress. Once you transaxle arrives you'll be on the home stretch. Keep the pictures coming.

Vidal,

I'm going with white paint and black accents, like the headlight buckets and all of Shane's louvers. The black I will be using for those is the same as in the wheels. I still haven't decided on the roof. Not sure if I will leave it white or paint it black. I'm leaning towards the black roof at the moment. The primer that is being used is made by BASF from their R-M line it's the Power Fill 2K. Don't know if it is polyester based or not. I honestly have no clue on paint and finishing stuff.

I'm really exited that I might be able to start the engine soon after Mendeola delivers the transaxle. I really want to hear that thing roar.

[kabacj]

Hey Kempo looking really good. Just thinking about that post on the starter. I would be a little leery about welding that post because it might damage the starter. What about using a jam nut. They are half as thick as the nut you have on there. Or better yet thread the bar and screw it on. Then trim the stud down till it clears.

I hate denting headers. :)

John

[LCD Gauges]

A couple tack welds are harmless, but I like your idea of using the jam nut as an alternative.

[kabacj]

A couple tack welds are harmless, but I like your idea of using the jam nut as an alternative.

I agree a couple of tacks could be fine.. I would just hate to ruin a starter. Unless it was mine to ruin I'm not going to be the one to try. Instead of using galvanized steel for the bar you could also make the bar out of 3/8 or 1/4 inch aluminum bar stock and cut threads into that with no problem. The aluminum will be a great conductor of electricity and even might help wick away heat from the starter. I know that's a stretch but it will conduct heat.

John

[Kempo]

I agree a couple of tacks could be fine.. I would just hate to ruin a starter. Unless it was mine to ruin I'm not going to be the one to try. Instead of using galvanized steel for the bar you could also make the bar out of 3/8 or 1/4 inch aluminum bar stock and cut threads into that with no problem. The aluminum will be a great conductor of electricity and even might help wick away heat from the starter. I know that's a stretch but it will conduct heat.

John

John,

I think that the jam nut will fit the bill. I will try that before bending the header or tack welding it. If I can get an extra 2MM of gap it will have enough clearance and I can also fit a starter heat shield wrap. Threading the bar and screwing it up is not possible. The connector for the starter signal is under that stud and will not allow for the bar to be screwed on.

Thanks guys for the advise on solving this clearance issue.

[Kempo]

I powered the ISIS system this morning. I still need to connect the all the outputs to their respective locations but I tested all of them and they are working the way they should. I also tested the touch screen. on this video you can hear how the stater solenoid is activated when the engine start button is pressed. Here is also a picture of a powered Powercell.

The Powercell
https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!745:Scaled1024/IMG_1132.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

The screen

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!744:Scaled1024/IMG_1129.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


The system in action


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmlBpaP5YRg

[LCD Gauges]

That is flat out too cool! What is a system like that worth?

[VD2021]

That is flat out too cool! What is a system like that worth?

Tino,
The in touch max touch screen alone is $929. I'd term it as "high speed, low drag" and very cool.

[VD2021]

H,
Very nice. You're like the neighbor hood kid that has all of the latest video games and toys. I can't wait to see it full up.

[Kempo]

That is flat out too cool! What is a system like that worth?

Tino,

The price on the touch screen is what Vidal said. Plus the basic 3 cell kit is about $1000 they also have a few more options that can increase your final price. Pricey? Yes....But, to me this is as cool as it gets on electrical systems. IMHO it adds to the awe factor of the GTM.

[The Stig]

Really Cool stuff Hugo! I think the ISIS system is definitely something that more people here are interested in knowing more about, in order to get past the uncertainty of installation. It's definitely cool. But it's also sort of "Black-Box-ish"...

I started to put it into my GTM, but decided against it at the last minute. But I think when I build the Mk-4, I will definitely use it.

Are their things that people need to know ahead of time, in terms of build plan (sequence) when incorporating the ISIS system? Or do you plan it the same as you would any other wiring "kit"? I know that you sort of need to plan where you place the cells, and how you'll route the wires from the different points, but other than that, are there any hurdles that you hadn't planned on?

Thanks for posting this piece!

Mike

[flotowngtm]

Great video I think thats the first one I have seen of the screen up close in action. Nice install!!!
And I would also paint the roof black.

[LCD Gauges]

That sure does set your car apart from the rest of the pack. It's a little out of my budget right now as I'd rather put the funds toward rims, a rear wing, and some other body accents. I guess that's something you want to buy up front and install before the interior is buttoned up!

Maybe for the next GTM... :D

[spytech]

Very cool. I emailed ISIS multiple times inquiring about that touchscreen system back when I was doing my wiring and never received any responses. Would have been a cool toy to have.

[Kempo]

Are their things that people need to know ahead of time, in terms of build plan (sequence) when incorporating the ISIS system? Or do you plan it the same as you would any other wiring "kit"? I know that you sort of need to plan where you place the cells, and how you'll route the wires from the different points, but other than that, are there any hurdles that you hadn't planned on?

Thanks for posting this piece!

Mike

Stig,

Other than planning where to install the cells the rest is about the same as installing any other wiring system. Shane's cell mounts help a lot on the install of the cells. Not having to route and hide the bulk of cables coming out of a traditional fuse box type system really cuts on installation time. so far I haven't run into any unforeseen hurdles.

[Kempo]

I installed my clutch and flywheel this Sunday.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!757:Scaled1024/IMG_1137.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!754:Scaled1024/IMG_1134.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!760:Scaled1024/IMG_1139.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!762:Scaled1024/IMG_1143.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720



The twin discs aligned

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!759:Scaled1024/IMG_1141.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720



My coolant header tank also came back from anodizing.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!761:Scaled1024/IMG_1145.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!764:Scaled1024/IMG_1146.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

As kabacj suggested I used a jam nut on the starter and it allowed for an extra 2MM of clearance. Thanks kabacj. I now have enough clearance there. Just need to add the starter heat shielding blanket.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!766:Scaled1024/IMG_1149.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!765:Scaled1024/IMG_1148.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720


I also worked last night a bit more on the electrical system. This time I started working on the gauges. This new Gen II gauges are not just way nicer than the auto meeter used before they are also way easier to install. They come with connectors and harnesses for signal,power and lighting. IMO there are 3 things that can be improved on them. The first one is that a metric adaptor should be included with the gauges since it is destined to be used in the LS engine. The adaptor for the water temp sensor doesn't have the metric M16x1.50 required to install the sensor where FFR recommends in the manual. I had to get the metric adaptor. Since I was getting the adaptor I got one that is M12x1.25 and used the hole on the passenger side cylinder head in order to route the cable over the engine instead of behind the headers where it would be subjected to more heat during use. The second one is and don't know if this is because if the way I routed my wires but the harness for the water temp and the oil pressure gauges need a bit more length on them. They seem to be made for cars with the engine at the front. They just barely reach the location behind the instrument panel. Maybe 6 to 12 more inches of cable would help. The wires are very thin and just a bit of pull left on them might turn into trouble down the road. On the other hand the fuel level gauge harness has like 24" of extra cable on its harness. The third thing I would have liked to see on the gauges would have been the integrated signal and high beam indicator lights in the face of the tachometer. The guys that make the gauges offer this option. I'm aware that FFR has to cut back on some options to be able to offer the GTM kit at $19K but maybe Dave can work something out with the manufacturer to have them include that option. Don't know maybe a volume order for indicators deal or something like ad space on this site. I will be sending them my tach today and they will retrofit those indicators in there, for a charge of course.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!768:Scaled1024/IMG_1152.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!767:Scaled1024/IMG_1150.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

More to come tonight or tomorrow. I'm hoping to fire the engine some time this weekend.

[RumRunner]

Hugo,

Can I ask how much they charge to retro-fit the indicators? I also would like to do it.
In fact, I'm thinking about using their 4-in-1 4" gauge to display engine temp, oil pressure, gas level, and alternator voltage, rather than use the three smaller gauges FFR provides. The three 4" gauges sit in a nice arc on the dash face.

Also, I'm going to be in PR week of Thanksgiving. Probably a long drive, but I'd love to see your build!

-Michael

[LS MAN]

Hey Kempo, great build - coming along awesome.
You might want to put some kind of covering over that cable extension bar from the starter, as it has a lot of exposed area - could drop a wrench or something down there & it would make a mess, maybe even burn a hole in the header.
A lot of heat there so something high temp.

Keep up the good work.

Another option would be to install a remote starter solenoid, (old Ford type system) Actually you could put it where your rear cable junction is.
The idea behind it is you run the positive cable to the remote solenoid, & the output cable goes to the starter. The benefit of this is the main cable to the starter is only powered when starting, other times it is dead, no chance of shorting out.
You would need to run the solenoid engagement wire from the ISIS to the remote solenoid, and also make a small jumper from the main cable post on the starter to the solenoid on the starter. When the remote solenoid is energized it would feed power to the starter cable post & solenoid together.
Ford made a flat style solenoid that would work great.



NAPA Part # MPE ST404SB

[Kempo]

Hugo,

Can I ask how much they charge to retro-fit the indicators? I also would like to do it.
In fact, I'm thinking about using their 4-in-1 4" gauge to display engine temp, oil pressure, gas level, and alternator voltage, rather than use the three smaller gauges FFR provides. The three 4" gauges sit in a nice arc on the dash face.

Also, I'm going to be in PR week of Thanksgiving. Probably a long drive, but I'd love to see your build!

-Michael

Michael,

The retrofit costs $40 plus shipping charges. I also looked at the 4-in1 gauge it looks cool. I liked better the the speedo that has another gauge inside. I like the layout in it.

You are more than welcome to drop by during your visit. What part of PR will you be visiting? I'm located at the south west corner of the island. PM me when the date comes I will send you my contact info and address.

[Kempo]

Hey Kempo, great build - coming along awesome.
You might want to put some kind of covering over that cable extension bar from the starter, as it has a lot of exposed area - could drop a wrench or something down there & it would make a mess, maybe even burn a hole in the header.
A lot of heat there so something high temp.

Keep up the good work.

Another option would be to install a remote starter solenoid, (old Ford type system) Actually you could put it where your rear cable junction is.
The idea behind it is you run the positive cable to the remote solenoid, & the output cable goes to the starter. The benefit of this is the main cable to the starter is only powered when starting, other times it is dead, no chance of shorting out.
You would need to run the solenoid engagement wire from the ISIS to the remote solenoid, and also make a small jumper from the main cable post on the starter to the solenoid on the starter. When the remote solenoid is energized it would feed power to the starter cable post & solenoid together.
Ford made a flat style solenoid that would work great.



NAPA Part # MPE ST404SB

Thanks for the nice comments Ted. I'm planning on wrapping the complete stater with a thermal blanket to protect it from the heat from the header and to act as insulation for the whole thing and prevent something from shorting out that cable. But your Ford solenoid idea is excellent. I might just do that. That would also solve the problem I have at the moment with the signal cable. I haven't been able to find the connector for it that is why it temporary has the spade connector on it. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Kempo]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My target was Sunday but I was able to accomplish everything needed for the start up today.The exhausts look like the aftermarket ones used on some diesel trucks. LOL Was the fastest way I could come up to protect the chassis from the exhaust. My wife says is too loud. To me it isn't, maybe because of how bad I have wanted to hear it run in the past few months.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4q58lFRft0

Had a small coolant leak during fill up. Being the genius that I am it turns out I forgot to install the o-ring in the thermostat housing. Other than that everything worked flawlessly.

I also received today my Vraptorspeedwork.com wing mount back from anodizing.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!769:Scaled1024/IMG_1154.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!772:Scaled1024/IMG_1163.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!771:Scaled1024/IMG_1162.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[LCD Gauges]

They keypad is louder than the motor, no worries! ;)

1-1-1-1-1-1

Where did you say you lived again? :o

Awesome progress, you must be itching to kart that thing down the road.

[Kempo]

1-1-1-1-1-1

Where did you say you lived again? :o

Awesome progress, you must be itching to kart that thing down the road.

LOL!!! I live about 2000 miles away from you in a small island in the caribbean. :D That pass code is the ISIS default. It will soon be changed.

I can't wait to have my transaxle to start karting this thing. I plan on putting at least 30 miles on it before installing the body to be sure there aren't any other bloopers on my work.

[VD2021]

H,
Congrats. Feels good doesn't it?

Your's is now the second GTM start I've had the pleasure to view where there is not a transaxle attached. Cool stuff.

I've been around the other forum since March of 10 and I have to say that your build has been the smoothest (can't think of a better word) in progess I've seen. Seems the box delay has not caused you any or very litte schedule interuption. I can see you being done shortly after you install your box. Good stuff.

How's the paint coming?

[Kempo]

H,
Congrats. Feels good doesn't it?

Your's is not the second GTM start I've had the pleasure to view where there is not an transaxle attached. Cool stuff.

I've been around the other forum since March of 10 and I have to say that your build has been has the smoothest (can't think of a better word) in progess I've seen. Seems the box delay has not caused you any or very litte schedule interuption. I can see you being done shortly after you install your box. Good stuff.

How's the paint coming?

I have to admit that it really felt good to hear that thing rumble after slowly and with as much detail as possible installing everything around it.
The transaxle hasn't really slowed me down so far. What really did slowed me down was the chassis harness that I ordered from SSP wiring that was never shipped after 6 months waiting for it. In the end I'm happy as I can be with the ISIS system I installed.

The paint job and prep has been slowed down in the past two weeks. Wally my friend doing the body has been sick. He has been having some abdominal pains and it appears to be the gallbladder. They are running some more tests but he might need surgery for it so that will delay his work.

[RF RIDER]

Kempo;
Did you finish up the canton tank install yet? Just curious if you installed the 4 port HCV with the system or did you go with the expansion tank and the typical set up from vintage air?

I ran into the same problem with the gas pedal. Thanks for the heads up, your pictures are clear on how to fix.

[Kempo]

Kempo;
Did you finish up the canton tank install yet? Just curious if you installed the 4 port HCV with the system or did you go with the expansion tank and the typical set up from vintage air?

I ran into the same problem with the gas pedal. Thanks for the heads up, your pictures are clear on how to fix.

RF,

I did finish the expansion tank install. But, my hoses run from the water pump to the tank and back. Due to my location heater is never need so I decided not to run those hoses thru the tunnel and avoid the extra heat and possible failure points for something that will never be used.

[Kempo]

I've been working some more on the wiring. Ordered a Delphi GT connectors kit and i'm adding this connectors to the different ISIS output wires. My plan here is to make a nose wiring harness that I will be able to separate from the ISIS harness. This way if I need to remove the nose of the car I will be able to just remove that connector and take away the nose with its harness on it instead of having to remove the connector on each lamp. I will do the same in the rear.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!774:Scaled1024/IMG_1169.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pt3LN9tPW1e-9t8Y0J558YUJHE_DnNThb6pGTlqoQRyneUDsAL_CEX7gXt1GKH nNgznfzfJ6XA80/IMG_1173.JPG?psid=1

You can see the connector here in front of the horn.

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p4YY65ZCsDcvVkdkeCW7PA4tRiZeYaR3YQ_gyTqvrOPxhdmi HstB33djEz8QN9zrsed4PmTZJ3hk/IMG_1168.JPG?psid=1

Still need to route and cover some of the front cell wiring. The horns also got their own separate connector.

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pM0_5Qx8Nsgb3kOjyCyZ2NobHGDVRdKJ2n0b9CMbSsPmxEfP n-QL2tZV90agddbKuMyRlywmEQ7U/IMG_1165.JPG?psid=1

[Joe Mush]

What a great idea. Thanks for the info.

[lrt1941]

Very nice work. If I can get the imi starter hocked up I think I will try to start no 284.
Thanks for the help
Leonard

[Kempo]

I have already posted this on the compressor oil thread but I want to post it here too as reference for future builders that might have the same issue I had forgotten/not knowing that the A/C compressor comes with no oil, compressor connector clearance and engine serial number location. Sorry for the double post.

I removed the compressor last night and took it to the shop of a friend to add the required amount of oil. I always like to see the positive side of things, even in situations like this one where I forgot to add the oil before the install. I had to pull the compressor to add the oil but the good thing was that I was able to read the serial number of the engine which is hidden behind the compressor. I will need that number when the time to register the car arrives. I was also able to solve another problem I had. The connector on the compressor is located at about 8 o'clock on the stock C5 compressor. This created a clearance issue with the chassis. As soon as the engine would have moved on hard acceleration or deceleration it would have broken that connector from the compressor clutch. I had even marked the chassis to modify it to gain some clearance. After pulling the compressor I noticed that there is another notch at about 2 o'clock on it that can accommodate the clutch connector. So, I asked my friend to pull out the clutch and relocate the connector in that notch. No more clearance issue there.

Before moving the clutch,

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pL_emAPWHYVUDI7y5H7Xzncv4dqnDr_89sS0O7GGAaCchtQV vqXZGOtDlIKs1Uez6ZPOdkZocUpQ/IMG_1085.JPG?psid=1

After relocating the connector

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!785:Scaled1024/IMG_1184.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!786:Scaled1024/IMG_1185.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!787:Scaled1024/IMG_1186.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!789:Scaled1024/IMG_1188.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Kempo]

I received my tach back with the signal and high beam indicators installed. Here are some pictures with them off and on.


Off
https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!800:Scaled1024/IMG_1199.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

High beam and LH indicators ON
https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!801:Scaled1024/IMG_1201.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[Stage7]

I love the gauges and your build overall. Well done! We have a house in Aguadilla. I will be sure to pm you when I go back. This will be the coolest car on the island.

[Kempo]

I love the gauges and your build overall. Well done! We have a house in Aguadilla. I will be sure to pm you when I go back. This will be the coolest car on the island.

Thanks for the compliment Stage. I'm located about 30-40 minutes away from Aguadilla. Please do PM me the next time you fly out here.

[CPE200]

What brake calipers are these , from the corvette?

[CPE200]

What brake calipers are these , they look great

[CPE200]

what brake calipers are these , from the corvette?
test

[Kempo]

What brake calipers are these , from the corvette?

They are from the Corvette C6. The gray color and lack of lettering is because they are from the grand sport C6.

[CPE200]

they are from the corvette c6. The gray color and lack of lettering is because they are from the grand sport c6.

many thanks for the info , great job you are doing on this car!

[Kempo]

Some more work has been made on the body. Hopefully it will have primer early next week before Wally's surgery to remove his gallbladder on Thursday.

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pOPxj3ECf7yAutBhxPU2zMAUWKxXP7zPmmDbMdnGe4AOD0gi lwy8NG72mFwBxZOXbKfIM3sMcpzk/IMG_1174.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p5fSCK5sVJOpMarOiGPjij0EIB3giJKslC9XLaJqOpz3xzix IoY_DXKFuvPA6zVbUf11jAovE_Ew/IMG_1175.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p3EjenW6Ab2PbUr15ud-y06mK-v_NV4rhwbSx12-O-60MW3uN4u_VBhL65HnquI8pwTxhvc3Jnhg/IMG_1176.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pBykUbxt9nAWu_wOpvJrr8WN6ASYMQUjhIfNebTSyq6v7mnz 20HP9i58iji6hbNfCPEWOD6LN-So/IMG_1177.JPG?psid=1

I will be going to SEMA this year so let's see what improvements ideas I can "steal" from Gary's and FFR's both car.

[CPE200]

HI Kempo

A question on the Expansion thanks .... to where it feeds the pipe on the engine ?, as the one in front was removed that feed the radiator.

Thanks ........Mark


I installed my clutch and flywheel this Sunday.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!757:Scaled1024/IMG_1137.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!754:Scaled1024/IMG_1134.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!760:Scaled1024/IMG_1139.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!762:Scaled1024/IMG_1143.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720



The twin discs aligned

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!759:Scaled1024/IMG_1141.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720



My coolant header tank also came back from anodizing.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!761:Scaled1024/IMG_1145.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!764:Scaled1024/IMG_1146.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[crash]

Crossover tubes can be purchased from the factory, but they are expensive.

Item # 12602548

[Kempo]

I finished the cooling fans harness and relays set up on Sunday. Next will be the wiring on the gauges.

Fan harness
https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p5uQ4ue10z0XPc-BgDej5Cr6-aEuHM6g-tvGNlEb3d1FUPDjgw7k5FTLEr0N96kaLbCw6HqbpLq0/IMG_1213.JPG?psid=1

https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pnhpnkSIOrz3yCTLZnaoIfcFZhxw43-P21DJ-CHlMPi91X9Saj-yH208UkCHapZY4_NN4OaZou4c/IMG_1212.JPG?psid=1

Harness connector
https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!809:Scaled1024/IMG_1216.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

Relays
https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pF9Hua9kocUgaajlIrnhyAdFPjGYpSrMry34YVAQ3-LKGtiTl4-iMcXaUbOt4MaZT_Q_7QGCrYtI/IMG_1215.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

More progress has been done with the body. Wally is back form his surgery and back to speed. Some more filler was applied to the body and the the primer went on.

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!816:Scaled1024/IMG_1226.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!817:Scaled1024/IMG_1227.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

Wally working his magic
https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!819:Scaled1024/IMG_1229.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

After that the primer went on. It now looks closer to what the final color will be.
https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!824:Scaled1024/IMG_1236.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!823:Scaled1024/IMG_1235.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/1AC6F2642272029D!822:Scaled1024/IMG_1233.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

[RumRunner]

Hugo,

It looks great in primer! Another big step checked off. Congrats. Looking forward to meeting you and seeing it in person in a few weeks.

-Michael

[Kempo]

More progress has been made on the body. It is now ready to sand the primer. I want to install the body in the chassis one last time before sanding the primer and doing the base coat. as the saying goes "measure twice cut once" It now looks like a zebra.


https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pyF_t1z_LYqvmoxKpQMu9aDAt1y83dlqw_eVz0me69p63Q-idiqY_0R9FLcjx9F0CS379W5PsvUwHFI4FiBwpxg/IMG_1239.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1plTL7qxcVbfFqgIX710P5y4UmXbTq2QUslA_D2o-00hYpZeIGoNwucbZj6hSiRVeqYqrqdvyUmTuayVOe0thqAA/IMG_1244.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pURLm0HWHTI3BDQGLImx2tQa69nXfLOi-8CJzpnJg-e-cxial2Ri3DlL9KoS5L59TDPDLj-bsWeZaCB5eSo8GQQ/IMG_1245.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pcRSmRpCoiHZrilbvKlgsdsP4LTd_d5wC2zXUHhKNPvEi3ua hBuVfnIeIvRJDSWEj86j8AgH4ybwtFhWZtzGfjg/IMG_1246.JPG?psid=1

[fastthings]

looks beutiful, I'm sure your getting pumped.

[Kempo]

looks beutiful, I'm sure your getting pumped.

Thanks fast. Yes I am. it looks so good in just white primer that I cant imagine how good it will look with the clear coat on it.

I was finally able to add more pictures on my previous post.

[Kempo]

The hatch is almost ready for final primer sanding as well.

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKb2hJj4uyimZ1FZXNR9DK1R_6sI9jpQW7zJvQQ6S9yASEgo Mh3KaT2AzpENJ8-UKg2_HLGH0XEWQd8STf0C3eQ/IMG_1255.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pSX2gW7ELmTGDuxjExlrpe9YlcrLr-bIEceuczRaWCKOfot85EaSjTdh2aOK6EbG4O-X2Md9JRvAY1JW8CrmOXQ/IMG_1254.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ps1XCw1_eQq01P77xvtL6pQqNigza252TXXEhNDxCJrMv_Pa 1o_5xhI3keH9BB4qSIoyvkom76auODdkxnsWFhQ/IMG_1250.JPG?psid=1

[Kalstar]

Looking good buddy!

[Kempo]

Looking good buddy!

Thanks Jim.

I decided to paint the visible underside of the body with the same liner material used on the aluminum panels. In preparation for this Wally covered the primed body and made a "paint cabin" in my garage to protect the floor and walls. That stuff travels a lot after it leaves the paint gun.


https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1peWS52ZtFbEIzxohoHIgTRLUumWIbmRHbA8Qk7ByNT7yYeZ1 MldS5R2B5jGAJzqB_F9mpuDp18eqpaGqlQ4ox1A/IMG_1259.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pay8Mg__d9XwBrcW38p9-oAigEpvNK6T6ekJn7I8kkq0SMXvmSK2Bms7OG1dpSr1IEsn3BV ruMQz9hGCQA8NFPg/IMG_1258.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pXlDXxWAqrPQyzJtKcQqdk3tsJPjIjYGSG3-8s04aXrsAhiGBJO3_Qf_FP-Qgdyp17jbWviTMkP4KQ6200TdqAw/IMG_1260.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pDY8d6RbA4KrrrPRb3lAR_LGpa7-EZ9nyEzR1paCqk4DVkc2QJDZc0auilYRWiKwJzZB9zUdH2Fc5b CyknxVevg/IMG_1261.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

As Rum Runner had warned me during his visit one of the most frustrating parts of the build is getting the A/C hoses installed on the evaporator unit. its amazing how something that looks so easy can take so much time. The space for them is very limited. Had to leave one for tomorrow or I would have risked ripping them all off. :mad:

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1peoV6ZkPglobNd7k7vl8uOhOA_FBsnUi4x7B769y1FsUnhT7 tqA15Lm2ssrEVS9asygkszLniRx53MpjG72889Q/IMG_1267.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pOPZHLdBkvylB40qN7qKOe1MMf-klfvlGgInybrJzmWhNhoSRLxxIWKlYB28nMtKxuIqviligDFVp XsmSzG_pYQ/IMG_1263.JPG?psid=1

[VD2021]

H,
You're all almost there. You could take care of the rear inner fenders and hood while you're at it. Both should have some protection from debris.

[RumRunner]

As Rum Runner had warned me during his visit one of the most frustrating parts of the build is getting the A/C hoses installed on the evaporator unit. its amazing how something that looks so easy can take so much time. The space for them is very limited. Had to leave one for tomorrow or I would have risked ripping them all off. :mad:

H,

Like I said - frustrating. It's surprising how many folks get three of the four hoses connected and then have to walk away. Welcome to the club!

-Michael

[VD2021]

H,

Like I said - frustrating. It's surprising how many folks get three of the four hoses connected and then have to walk away. Welcome to the club!

-Michael

Yeah. Three was all I could stand in one day. If I had known how much of a pain it was going to be I would have surely put them on when I could still move the unit and dealt with the hoses being there from that point on.

[kaloper]

Good work and progress, as usual! Where did you get the carbon fiber hood inserts?

Thanks...Karl
GTM #362

[Kempo]

Good work and progress, as usual! Where did you get the carbon fiber hood inserts?

Thanks...Karl
GTM #362

Thanks Karl. PM sent about the inserts.

[Kempo]

The under side of the body is done and some more panels got coated.

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pcyEwVonwf0FcFiL4AZQ6-qbmB-rCA7VCdCyFChRM7xU46oezCb9xOHWl5WIjgntVBrS5AXDKXVjb _qTO35Otgg/IMG_1277.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ppCPP3qFA_XNq4pJCVv8DBfbeopVXkCclJFkn-uZK53KxP-Mr8GPf7O2IRXpDuvaq_NoxqLD21NDcn36MYd8s-A/IMG_1275.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pCZRphZnLZ4-CTwT3cvsEcPp8WG7ohyHS39GsGlaL6ML_LIA9n5Q_ZG2iKeIN0 vFxp8OwJHxQnlf_Mbmxs2IWuw/IMG_1276.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pfU0HFwqcpTtgFIdGL1qDaff_rwOfgjRXpZKOQhtTZnIfO-YXyXVII7JBzCPNUk4FqGo74wHwTsHp3O-jNEpEZw/IMG_1279.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

Today I made the holes for the A/C ducts on the top foot box cover. We also dropped the body on the chassis to test fit the dash before sending it to the upholstery shop.

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pVwlQFxyeW5kqmrt877WRi3Tn2H9gYpcVD-aSYf1N6DPl5hSphLBworlXpLAyK_4Eo4LsHCGuivJfu-WIao1gJA/IMG_1282.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p-FlvTGtLHp-OqTI8FVnbtugUqN2tFD--aMsubsMxek5aBy2eu3F6pulnv3MaOq4-9EU_4FHoWHkFNtR8fWbtVQ/IMG_1280.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p7ltueeyln_emfq0L5zPzpzIEvd3pmBJulQJ2cc-UpffOuFuJpdx_hmhdHjmwRSXWImE4o0HCmPdZ1bWwK4Vm9g/IMG_1283.JPG?psid=1

[Kempo]

I was also considering painting the roof matte black so Wally partially painted one side to give me an idea on how it might look. I have finally decided on all white. opinions are welcome on the color of the roof.

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p8VEgS89SM02GZQKdbBWWdPSNWnEo_Mxf70mAMSReo2mJHBT eMiQo0HPOaJjCMbptJpR9-JjimX_kFEfa9EEMTw/IMG_1287.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p0DzMi6NW_hAp6byWN0ygESbHIskTaA6zKEUxUzi8yfOij94 NzEAaFLqmQvWoCd4G6IODv3Vg-skmLDK6XrRRiA/IMG_1289.JPG?psid=1

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[Joe Mush]

Looks great Hugo.
What size hole to you cut?

[Kempo]

Looks great Hugo.
What size hole to you cut?

Thanks for the kind words Joe. I used a knockout punch tool for the holes. Like the ones used by electricians to punch holes for conduits on electrical boxes. I used the 2" die and then used a sheet metal snip to trim the holes to the same size of the duct. They ended up at about 2 3/4". After that was cut I added a plastic trim to protect the duct from the aluminum. The knockout tool looks like the one on the link below.

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html

[kaloper]

Thanks for the PM...Reply sent.

BTW...What type of plastic material did you use for "grommets" around the AC hoses?

Karl

[Kempo]

Thanks for the PM...Reply sent.

BTW...What type of plastic material did you use for "grommets" around the AC hoses?

Karl


I used part number 85085K2 from mcmaster.com still need to add something to make a complete seal between the grommets and the hoses.

[ClemsonS197]

opinions are welcome on the color of the roof.

IMHO, gloss black roof and black headlight buckets. And if you have a tall spoiler, maybe that black too. It would tie-in the black wheels nicely. I really like the black roof on the yellow Fact5 GTM.

[Tpa65cpe]

I agree with clemsons197 black roof, black rims, black headlight buckets, and rear spoiler with a bright white body = the Bomb!! Looks like a Itialian show car done a while back and it was hot, JMHO :cool:

[Kempo]

Thanks for the opinion on the colors guys.

LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!!!!!!!!

I finished the harness for the taillights last night. I only need to finish the wiring for the license plate lights.

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p5k7lVF_zJbA3Oc_gepkpAepDIwoSgaJMAt1Z7-bF0S7F1QJTkR67v-JZbZzjxz27J-HZMalwdLMNXE8SgqhSlA/IMG_1301.JPG?psid=1

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pevjLKvdgMOEsnNdeBzcAAfWrJLKcou2sIv04bCGe9vxEDdP sHOew5HnvcJUnijSJKF1cT4rpmuJMf6vOMs79AA/IMG_1298.JPG?psid=1

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[Kempo]

My Mendeola was delivered this morning. Just have to wait for FFR to send out the install kit to install it in the car. After that i should be in the gokart stage in no time. I have to thank FFR and Mendeola for getting this units finished and delivered. For the looks of it it was definitely worth the wait. Craftsmanship on it is second to none.

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1prPgKTfCGfdRJsNn3rrIrBk7sVFeYpK3BhgPX7j474WWpLSS YPtIYEX7VQf9qERbFLX8OFZCeoHCimuLRL764sQ/mendeola.JPG?psid=1