Oil pressure switch, What are you doing?

[bstuke]

I really like having an accurate gauge. On my Roadster I had a mechanical one with SS line to the gauge. It quickly exposed that I had pressure problems. A Milodon road race pan and pickup, along with a blueprinted Melling standard pump and proper non restrictive race oil filter quickly fixed that challenge. I never had a pressure problem again.

What are you doing on your 818 to monitor the oil pressure and how is it working?

Right now I have a stock pan and all, but still want instant feedback on what is going on with the oil pressure.

Pictures and pro/con feedback is appreciated!

Stuke

[Wayne Presley]

Bob, did you want to add a gauge to your dash?

[bstuke]

Not sure, but wondered what others are doing. My initial thought is a panel with canbus, but those things are expensive!

[Wayne Presley]

CAN bus dash only is $1100

[FFRSpec72]

I added a pressure sensor to the galley and will run that into my data logger and run a virtual dash (could also run a stand-alone gauge)

[bstuke]

Thanks for the feedback Tony, what spot did you use, and did you just use an adapter to get to 1/4 NPT?

Could one signal be wired to two inputs, say the ECU for logging and a dash gauge?

[RM1SepEx]

Can we monitor oil pressure using one of those bluetooth ODB2 dongles???

Just re-read my Cobb manual, says you can monitor anything in the ECU does that include oil pressure?

[Wayne Presley]

Can we monitor oil pressure using one of those bluetooth ODB2 dongles???

Not since the Subaru only has an oil pressure switch instead of a true pressure sensor...

[RM1SepEx]

Gonna have to add a sensor and gauge...

[bstuke]

Yep it is just an on off switch.

It worries me as oil pressure is pretty important and there is no way to monitor it. I most likely will go with changing or adding a true pressure sensor, I can then wire it to the Megasquirt and it can monitor, log, shut down if needed, and send the info out the canbus to the display.

If you are using the stock ECU, you will have to keep the switch if you can't turn it off completely, and run a seperate sensor to a gauge.

Wayne can help steer you and get you the correct parts.

[Wayne Presley]

Gonna have to add a sensor and gauge...

There is not much room under the alternator so you may have to remote mount the sender

[STiPWRD]

Wayne, what are your thoughts on using one of those sandwich plates between the oil cooler and filter. Is it a good way of measuring pressure and temp? They seam cheap on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-filter-sandwich-plate-adapter-pressure-temperature-sensor-WRX-EVO-Honda-/161115640359?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25833d9227&vxp=mtr

[Wayne Presley]

buy a quality billet one if you do buy one. You will probably not need an oil cooler unless you are running an 818R at the track. I have a customer that was at Sebring last weekend and was datalogging pre and post AWIC temps as well as oil temps. The highest oil temp he saw was 250°F at a track with lots of straights. You are not going to need a big oil cooler and it will need a thermostatic bypass. And then you can run a remote high flow race filter instead of the little Subaru one.

[STiPWRD]

buy a quality billet one if you do buy one. You will probably not need an oil cooler unless you are running an 818R at the track. I have a customer that was at Sebring last weekend and was datalogging pre and post AWIC temps as well as oil temps. The highest oil temp he saw was 250°F at a track with lots of straights. You are not going to need a big oil cooler and it will need a thermostatic bypass. And then you can run a remote high flow race filter instead of the little Subaru one.
I'm re-using the stock oil cooler (or heat exchanger) that comes with the EJ257. I agree it is probably not necessary for street driving but I'm keeping things stock in that area. I just wanted to know if one of those plate would be adequate for measuring oil pressure and temp (considering I'd like to retain the stock oil cooler and filter location). The one I posted is machined from billet aluminum and blue anodized, it's just not necessarily a name brand - all I'd be using it for is the two bungs for sensors. Thanks for the input.

[FFRSpec72]

Thanks for the feedback Tony, what spot did you use, and did you just use an adapter to get to 1/4 NPT?

Could one signal be wired to two inputs, say the ECU for logging and a dash gauge?

I used a galley plug, the plug was under the intercooler (see the picture when you look at the galley plug from ProSport), I left the factory sensor in (under the alternator), I used a galley plug ( http://prosportgauges.com/subaru-oil-galley-plug.aspx )with 1/8 NPT then used a 18" grease gun hose with 1/8 NPT coupler on to a single wire pressure sensor (http://prosportgauges.com/performance-oil-pressure-sender.aspx ) so all-in-all like $35

38146

[Wayne Presley]

I would use one of the other oil galley plugs for oil pressure and weld in a bung on the stock pan for oil temp then. Like he^ said 10 seconds before me but I'd use a braided hose instead :cool:

[FFRSpec72]

I'm re-using the stock oil cooler (or heat exchanger) that comes with the EJ257. I agree it is probably not necessary for street driving but I'm keeping things stock in that area. I just wanted to know if one of those plate would be adequate for measuring oil pressure and temp (considering I'd like to retain the stock oil cooler and filter location). The one I posted is machined from billet aluminum and blue anodized, it's just not necessarily a name brand - all I'd be using it for is the two bungs for sensors. Thanks for the input.

I'm using a remote oil filter mount that has a 1/8 NPT on it for either pressure or temp, I will use it for oil temp (before it heads off to oil cooler). I also wanted to be able to get to the oil filter w/o having to remove the under the engine aluminum.

38147 38148

[STiPWRD]

I used a galley plug, the plug was under the intercooler (see the picture when you look at the galley plug from ProSport), I left the factory sensor in (under the alternator), I used a galley plug ( http://prosportgauges.com/subaru-oil-galley-plug.aspx )with 1/8 NPT then used a 18" grease gun hose with 1/8 NPT coupler on to a single wire pressure sensor (http://prosportgauges.com/performance-oil-pressure-sender.aspx ) so all-in-all like $35

38146

That looks like a great option, thanks Tony & Wayne!

[bstuke]

I used a galley plug, the plug was under the intercooler (see the picture when you look at the galley plug from ProSport), I left the factory sensor in (under the alternator), I used a galley plug ( http://prosportgauges.com/subaru-oil-galley-plug.aspx )with 1/8 NPT then used a 18" grease gun hose with 1/8 NPT coupler on to a single wire pressure sensor (http://prosportgauges.com/performance-oil-pressure-sender.aspx ) so all-in-all like $35

38146

Awesome feedback Tony, thanks. And it is something even I can't mess up...

Cooler location is awesome too.

[tmoretta]

Is there an under engine aluminum panel supplied by FFR? I can't find one.

[FFRSpec72]

Is there an under engine aluminum panel supplied by FFR? I can't find one.

If you bought the diffuser then you should have received the aluminum, I had to call as my diffuser did not come with the aluminum, seems there was an issue with the packaging of the diffuser not including the part number for the aluminum

[C.Plavan]

I used the OEM oil pressure light switch location as my oil pressure. I bought a plug with the correct thread that inserts into the block. It also had a 1/8 NPT hole milled in the center. Since it was close to the alternator, I bought a little 90 degree 1/8 NPT elbow and attached the oil pressure gauge to that. Fits perfectly and clears the Alt.

For the oil temp- I used the rear port under turbo with appropriate VDO sender that actually was the same size M bolt and thread pitch- (easy peesy).

Tmoretta- I had to call them to send me the under motor aluminum.

[RM1SepEx]

If you bought the diffuser then you should have received the aluminum, I had to call as my diffuser did not come with the aluminum, seems there was an issue with the packaging of the diffuser not including the part number for the aluminum

same here, called and they shipped it right out

[tmoretta]

I did not order the rear diffuser, only the front. I guess I am not eligible for the under engine aluminum. Would it be advantageous, aero wise, for me to order the aluminum panel? Also, for the large front panel under the radiator, what is general opinion on the pre-cut louvers? Should these be opened for extra cooling, will they vibrate or rattle off, should they be fixed closed? I am also noting a space/opening between the under rad. panel and the under battery panel - just under the steering rack. I am wondering if this opening will disrupt air flow beneath the front of the car. Anyone closing this off?

[JB91710]

I used the OEM oil pressure light switch location as my oil pressure. I bought a plug with the correct thread that inserts into the block. It also had a 1/8 NPT hole milled in the center. Since it was close to the alternator, I bought a little 90 degree 1/8 NPT elbow and attached the oil pressure gauge to that. Fits perfectly and clears the Alt.

For the oil temp- I used the rear port under turbo with appropriate VDO sender that actually was the same size M bolt and thread pitch- (easy peesy).

Tmoretta- I had to call them to send me the under motor aluminum.

What was the thread size into the block for the pressure sensor switch?

[Sgt.Gator]

What was the thread size into the block for the pressure sensor switch?

M18 x 1.5

You can buy them with the 1/8" NPT on eBay, but I like the Prosport PSNUT the best. Or the Prosport PSNut Remote Kit. A bunch of vendors sell them, just Google PSNUT.

Just the adaptor: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/gauge-install-adapters/prs-psnut-prosport-oil-galley-plug-w-1-8in-npt-threaded-center

Remote Kit: http://www.iagperformance.com/Prosport-Remote-Oil-Pressure-Sender-Install-Kit-p/psropkit.htm

Here's a list of Subaru Thread Pitches. I have it taped to the wall in my shop for quick reference. : https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200025184-Subaru-Thread-Pitch-and-Hardware-Information

[tmoretta]

So then - you disconnect the oil pressure light switch and replace it with a pressure gauge switch? Does this cause the light on the dash to stay on? Is there a way to connect both sensors to the same (behind alternator) location?

[Wayne Presley]

You can run a T, get a dual pole sensor (switch and sensor combo) or leave the oil light wire disconnected which will not have the light on the dash.

[JB91710]

M18 x 1.5

You can buy them with the 1/8" NPT on eBay, but I like the Prosport PSNUT the best. Or the Prosport PSNut Remote Kit. A bunch of vendors sell them, just Google PSNUT.

Just the adaptor: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/gauge-install-adapters/prs-psnut-prosport-oil-galley-plug-w-1-8in-npt-threaded-center

Remote Kit: http://www.iagperformance.com/Prosport-Remote-Oil-Pressure-Sender-Install-Kit-p/psropkit.htm

Here's a list of Subaru Thread Pitches. I have it taped to the wall in my shop for quick reference. : https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200025184-Subaru-Thread-Pitch-and-Hardware-Information

I'm referring to the oil pressure switch which is either 1/8"NPT or BSPT.

[Sgt.Gator]

I'm referring to the oil pressure switch which is either 1/8"NPT or BSPT.

The Subaru oem adaptor is M18 x 1.5 with a 1/8" BSPT thread for the switch. Since no one else makes 1/8" BSPT sensors, you can use the PSNUT M18 x 1.5 with a 1/8" NPT thread to use aftermarket gauge sensors.

[JB91710]

The Subaru oem adaptor is M18 x 1.5 with a 1/8" BSPT thread for the switch. Since no one else makes 1/8" BSPT sensors, you can use the PSNUT M18 x 1.5 with a 1/8" NPT thread to use aftermarket gauge sensors.

I believe you're talking about an OEM Galley Plug location. I only have access to one on the front EZ30 engine. My alternator covers the rear one. I barely have access to the OEM switch location on the rear engine and the front one is accessible. The adapter in the first photo is NPT, I think. The OEM hole is BSPT, I think.

What I'm having a hard time finding is M12 1.5 - 1/8"NPT for the Water temperature switch location and a M20 for the oil pan drain plug that will fit the thick VDO sensors. I need over 5/16" and most are smaller than 1/4".
610176101861019

[tmoretta]

I understand that the EJ208 engine has three oil ports. I have found the one near the turbo (have adapted to add an oil temp. sensor), and the one behind the alternator (original location for the oil pressure sensor).
Where is the third?

[Sgt.Gator]

I understand that the EJ208 engine has three oil ports. I have found the one near the turbo (have adapted to add an oil temp. sensor), and the one behind the alternator (original location for the oil pressure sensor).
Where is the third?

I think the EJ257 is the same as the 208, but not positive. Here's a pic that shows the ports. Note the one in the top front where the oem oil pressure switch is installed is not marked.
The other three on the top of the block are very hard to use because the hard water pipe mostly or completely covers them. But they are there if you are creative.
61075

[tmoretta]

So it looks like any/all of the hex plugs right?

[Sgt.Gator]

Almost. On the bottom of the block at least one is water/coolant.

[aquillen]

I want to keep the pressure switch/oil warning light, but also have a pressure guage. Also keeping the stock oil/coolant heat exchanger. I decided to see if I could work with the space where the pressure switch mounts. One thing I haven't addressed yet is heat shielding from the exhaust header, but that will happen (this sender is big enough it will pick up plenty of exhaust heat).

So far I'm not seeing why this shouldn't work just fine. The guage set is a "JDM Oil Pressure Guage" from eBay, and its supplied sender is a good sized lump. Sorry I didn't do a CAD, I'm faster with ms-paint so just tossed an image together with dimensions in case another EZ30D project wants to make one of these adapters. There is only a couple millimeters of lee-way in getting this to fit and I made three before I got the clearance to come out right.

There may be an adapter out there for sale, but will it fit sight-unseen?

As others mention - most guages (USA) are 1/8 NPT (27 pitch thread). The Subaru has 1/8 BSP (28 pitch thread - British). You have to drill/tap accordingly at each spot.

Purchased:
Ebay: The guage/sender $22.00
McMaster-Carr: the 1/8 NPT x 1/8 BSP male-male adapter, $14.00 shipped.
Amazon: Hanson 1911ZR Tap 1/8"-28Bsp Pipe". $7.00 shipped.
Aluminum block from scrap bin.

http://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1525919142/EZ30D_dual_oil_pressure_sensor_adaptor_01_wrjnlr.j pg

http://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1525920842/EZ30D_dual_oil_pressure_sensor_adaptor_02_xyx8p9.j pg

http://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1525920890/EZ30D_dual_oil_pressure_sensor_adaptor_04_iril4m.j pg

http://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1525920925/EZ30D_dual_oil_pressure_sensor_adaptor_05_ykmug7.j pg

http://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1525920956/EZ30D_dual_oil_pressure_sensor_adaptor_06_clwrdy.j pg

http://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1525920993/EZ30D_dual_oil_pressure_sensor_adaptor_dimensions_ 06_ofsujb.jpg

[killerbmotorsport]

If you guys are ever in a pinch for an adapter, we make a decent selection of M18 to NPT or PT, M20 to NPT or PT, NPT to NPT or PT, and a few others.