JJ's 818s Build [Archive] - Factory Five Forums

TouchStone

01-18-2015, 09:28 PM

Hi All,

I got my kit and donor last October and I've been putting off my build thread till I've made some decent progress. As this is my first auto build I'm hoping that other members reading this thread may catch any mistakes I've made. Also It would be helpful if you suggest easy tips and tricks for areas where I struggled with.

I really want to end up with an excellent looking 818 similar to many other members on this forum.

Full build photo album https://flic.kr/s/aHskbCzjtJ

TouchStone

01-18-2015, 10:31 PM

Since this is my first build I decided to get a donor kit from Wayne. I didn't want to deal with the Impreza tear down, maybe next time. I got a 2003 WRX with about 120K miles.

My donor arrived early October and this is the shipping crate it came in. The size of it immediately turned my 2 car garage into 1 and a quarter car garage.

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After un-crating it I left the engine sit in the bottom of the crate until just last week. That rats nets of wires is rather unsettling.

37823

More donor parts.
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The first thing I did was clean up the donor's brakes and front control arms with a wire wheel. Here they are about half way cleaned.
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I didn't do much else until the kit arrived.

TouchStone

01-18-2015, 10:58 PM

And it begins!
37828

First thing was to install the front firewall. I'd never spray painted before but I think it went pretty well. I also through together a cardboard paint booth with a box fan in the back. With the booth I put a black gloss on the cockpit side and a rubberized coating on the other side of the aluminum panels.

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All in place and riveted.

TouchStone

01-19-2015, 12:09 AM

Adding the front suspension, left side first. I don't have a press to get out the wheel bearings so for now Ill be leaving it as is.
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Following another members post I de-powered the steering rack.

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It was difficult to remove the piston without damaging the rack. I got it off by grinding both sides and then wedging apart the 2 halves with a flat head, this made it super easy.

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Below I removed and cleaned the front axle and universal joint bearings.

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Here is the completed front suspension including the Koni shocks.

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*This picture was taken just before I de-powered the rack, notice the hydraulic lines still in place

Bob_n_Cincy

01-19-2015, 01:12 AM

Hey JJ,
Welcome and great start,
Flip the big bushing over on the end of the lower control arms.
This will actually move your front tires about 3/8" forward giving you much needed tire clearance.
Where are you at? I hope you have a warm garage.
Bob

svanlare

01-19-2015, 01:27 AM

Welcome. Looks like good progress and nice work.

wleehendrick

01-19-2015, 11:25 AM

As this is my first auto build I'm hoping that other members reading this thread may catch any mistakes I've made. Also It would be helpful if you suggest easy tips and tricks for areas where I struggled with.

Welcome! Post pix and ask questions... people aren't shy around here. There is a tips and tricks thread, which is good to read through. The most common errors I've seen have been suspension pieces installed backwards/swapped/upside down, etc... the fact that there are two mirror image pieces lends itself to that goof.

I really want to end up with an excellent looking 818 similar to many other members on this forum.

I'm sure you will.

billjr212

01-19-2015, 11:40 AM

let me just say your "paint booth" is awesome. I made a little tower out of PVC (kind of like ladder ball, if you've ever played that) so i could hang the various pieces that needed to be painted and hit all sides at once.

Definitely bookmark and catch up on the "tips and tricks" thread as mentioned above. Make sure to read it all the way through since there have been a few amendments/modifications to the tips along the way.

Here is a link: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours

TouchStone

01-20-2015, 01:03 AM

I'm in Dallas Texas. This last weekend's weather was amazing, I got a bunch of painting done and ready for install.
378663786737869

TouchStone

01-22-2015, 03:55 PM

The donor brakes are a nice and pretty yellow.

37928

Installed the donor pedal box and steering wheel. Wasn't too difficult, just some weird fitment between the aluminum panel, steel frame and pedal box.

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After installing the accelerator pedal according to the 818 manual I decided I really didn't like the position of the pedal or the short pedal throw due to the pedal box being in the way. So I cut off the top section of the FFR supplied bracket to recess the top mount. You can see the rivnut where the pedal used to mount to. Not only did this move the pedal forward aligning with the brake almost perfectly, it increased the pedal throw by over an inch. I had to drill out several more holes in the firewall because the FFR bracket is now sitting flush which leaves no clearance for the bolts that mount the pedal to the bracket. Instead all 4 bolts mount directly to the firewall. I left the metal bracket in place just as a stiffener to the aluminum.

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Since I had cut of the top mount point I drilled out another mount point just below the cable.

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I was rather upset when I went to connect the cable to the pedal because the plastic clip that seats the cable ball broke while I was trying to seat it. It looked like the pedal hole was too small for the plastic clip. I may fix this better later but currently I just silicone it in place which works well since I could now align the mount point to the firewall pass-through.

K3LAG

01-22-2015, 06:40 PM

I was rather upset when I went to connect the cable to the pedal because the plastic clip that seats the cable ball broke while I was trying to seat it. It looked like the pedal hole was too small for the plastic clip. I may fix this better later but currently I just silicone it in place which works well since I could now align the mount point to the firewall pass-through.

I broke mine too. I designed a replacement fitting and 3D printed it. If anyone wants the .stl file PM me.

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Larry

TouchStone

01-23-2015, 01:08 AM

Ill take the stl file. I've got a printer at work.

chedda

01-23-2015, 09:49 AM

I broke mine too. I designed a replacement fitting and 3D printed it. If anyone wants the .stl file PM me.

37944

Larry

I can host the file forever if you want. I also would like a copy.

TouchStone, good job so far. Things are looking great.

TouchStone

01-29-2015, 05:04 PM

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8658/16396133311_5463e61901.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qYStcD) https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/16371909726_0336538d6a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qWJjnC)
Removed alternator and compressor

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7303/16211665259_3d1b0a7ab9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qGz2gZ) https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8658/16210290458_b8e8c396c6.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qGrYAw)
Left: Removed Intake Manifold Right: Removed Exhaust Manifold

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/16210297468_beeca8b119.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qGs1Fo) https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8618/16210295358_42ce20e83f.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qGs141)
Removed timing belt and pulleys. Removed camshaft covers, dont forget to catch the oil

TouchStone

01-29-2015, 05:43 PM

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8664/16210545020_59b658fafe.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qGthgw) https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/16397019082_ea6275e2b3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qYX1vy)
Removed camshafts and buckets. Cylinder head valves

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/16396203631_2a08e54e40.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qYSQ74) https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/16397048552_f9cc3424f3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qYXagE)
Short block

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/16210594440_1d9d39aabf.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qGtwXA) https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/16396250881_fc89606e96.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qYT59H)

List of issues found

Cracks were found on the cylinder heads from the spark plug to each the valves.
Crackshaft had score-marks on the journals.
Cylinders out of round with scratches
Piston with broken 2nd land

Tamra

01-29-2015, 07:19 PM

Were you planning on a full engine rebuild? We weren't and found some unfortunate surprises that kind of forced us to. Then, the, "well while we're at it" took over and we went all out (watch out it adds up quick!), but it's been fun. What's your plan?

TouchStone

01-29-2015, 11:25 PM

My goal in this build is to learn as much as I can so I was planning to rebuild the motor. However with these issues I didn't feel comfortable rebuilding it myself so I took it to a shop and they recommended scrapping most of the engine. I'm having them build a 2.5L engine out of the few useful parts leftover.

TouchStone

02-06-2015, 11:49 PM

Taking apart my donor transmission I found a damaged part in between the 3rd/4th syncro and 3rd gear. It looks like a plate to keep the shift sleeve from moving to far is pretty chewed up. I think it was fine running the transmission like this but I want to replace it so doesn't cause any other problems. I looked on parts.subaru.com but it looks like this plate is actually attached to a gear and I cant tell if its p/n 32214 or 32650. Anyone know where I can get just the plate?
http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2003&modelName=wrx205-5mt-4wdwagon&ukey_assembly=6027409&ukey_category=52445&assembly=g11-114-02
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/16459316631_d0ea01aa7e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r5sipe)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7423/15841022483_5f12820fd0.jpg

I also need to replace the 5th-Rev fork as the plastic bushing is cracked.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/16460120212_ca26dc4281.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r5wqh5)

TouchStone

02-16-2015, 12:31 AM

This weekend I cleaned up the air intake manifold, removed the tumble generator valves and took percautionary measures to beat the clearance issue between the transmission and bumper.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8564/16543794671_f2f431b87f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rcVgMa)

I'm planning on sealing the left over valve holes by tapping them and installing a bolt.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/16357819518_0f9b2d8458_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qVu6R1)

I cut off a tab from the supplied FFR bracket and welded it on in reverse. Should help a bit.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/16358024390_4f64fa9853_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qVv9Kh)

sbak

02-19-2015, 11:00 AM

When you get down to the brakes; I had, until recently a '05 Forester XT MT. That car went through a few mods added and retuned (323 hp) including bigger brakes. To save some $$ I ordered rebuilt '06 WRX 4 pot/2pot calipers from one of the online tire retailers. (not sure if I can say their name here so I won't ). The worked great.. stiffened up the pedal and response over stock subie calipers.

dallas_

02-19-2015, 10:00 PM

I'm in Dallas Texas.

Looks good JJ.
I haven't seen an 818 before. If you're up for a visitor I'd love to check it out one of these days.
John

nkw8181

02-20-2015, 06:03 PM

Another dallas build. We need to meet up and compare notes lol. Looking good. I decided to leave the engine alone other the maintenance stuff.

TouchStone

02-20-2015, 06:17 PM

The engine was pretty beat up, so I took it to auto science and they are gonna build me a long block 2.5L. Should be ready sometime next week.

TouchStone

02-27-2015, 02:34 PM

I'm adding a personal touch to the FFR transmission backplate next week. I'm going to engrave and color fill one of the three designs into the aluminum transmission backplate.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8567/16639075966_43d2de073c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rmkBA7)https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8586/16045071233_d8db495f45.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qrRbFc)https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8635/16478857769_41bfb769cc.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r7bsip)

TouchStone

03-08-2015, 12:22 AM

Last week I routed a dragon design into the back tranny plate. Finally got to put my CNC machine to good use. Here is where I got it from https://www.buildyourcnc.com/blueChickVersion42CNCMachineKit.aspx.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7623/16562042530_334e9ae306_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rewNeq)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8725/16748253561_f63fa39e93_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rvZbhr)

After cleaning and light buffing heres the result. I'm planning on painting the groves black to make really stand out.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7612/16723438956_3d910096d7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rtMZLq)

TouchStone

03-08-2015, 12:52 AM

Today I dissembled, cleaned and rebuilt the throttle body. I broke a little plastic washer in the process, the washer was used as a bearing/spacer for the throttle cable mechanism. I dont think this part is necessary and it works just fine without it. Since I wont be using them I cut off the coolant connection points to clean up the final look.

Before:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8747/16562255030_789d22888f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rexTpd)

Dissembled:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8650/16127339524_f96b60b8af_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qz7Qb1)

I also plugged the open TGV holes by tapping and bolting a 10x1.25m and using liquid gasket to create a seal.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8584/16748260822_6d345b8f65_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rvZdrC)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8704/16542413387_c08dd80e53_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rcNcaV)

Also picked up my engine today from the shop. Its now 2.5L with 2.0 STi heads. Installed a new gates timing kit, new water and oil pumps.

Set some shiny parts on top and took these photos
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/16748258842_2450a25fbf_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rvZcRu)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7618/16748258292_2487b29114_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rvZcG1)

Harley818

03-08-2015, 01:21 AM

Nice job so far.
I like your CNC, and great job on the trans plate.

Mechie3

03-08-2015, 06:50 AM

I like the trans plate. :)

TouchStone

03-09-2015, 12:55 AM

Reassembled most of the transmission today. Very happy that I could find all the little bits and pieces. When dissasembling I highly recommend labeling and bagging everything that gets removed. It makes the process of reassembling "uneventfull", which is a good thing.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7626/16575312399_ec3ebb35cf_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rfGNUg)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7630/16760383602_055b69ec56_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rx4m85)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7617/16554190237_04b336319b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rdQy24)

RM1SepEx

03-09-2015, 06:48 AM

Nice work! Since you flipped the shifter arm like I did you can move the entire rear shift cable bracket forward about 1.5 inches. Just add a 3rd hole at the correct spacing and you have tons of clearance to the rear of the body

TouchStone

03-12-2015, 11:17 PM

Bob_n_Cincy

03-13-2015, 02:05 AM

Well crap! Despite my best efforts I left out a little piece of the transmission that will require a 2nd tear down. I thought this part was important when I first disasembled it so I placed it into its own bag... then miss-placed the bag :mad:. This piece is designed to push the shift fork locking tumbler so that you cant engage the 5th or Reverse while in 1st or 2nd gear and vice versa. While this cant happen simply with input from the driver If the checking ball (8) becomes loose then its quite possible that 2 gears may engage simultaneously.

39579

Hi TouchStone, Sorry to hear about you second teardown.
I love doing the first time and hate it the second time.

I would like to improve my shifter feel. Do you think the make stiffer springs for the detent balls? They are #7 on your picture.
Bob

TouchStone

03-13-2015, 11:11 AM

I would like to improve my shifter feel. Do you think the make stiffer springs for the detent balls? They are #7 on your picture.
Bob

Subaru wont offer stiffer springs for the checking spring, however when I tear this down again I'll take some measurements and spec out a stiffer spring.

TouchStone

03-15-2015, 01:58 AM

I got my missing part installed and transmission reassembled. Tomorrow I'll be working on the intake manifold.

TouchStone

03-15-2015, 02:13 AM

I would like to improve my shifter feel. Do you think they make stiffer springs for the detent balls? They are #7 on your picture.
Bob

Did some math for fun and found that you can get this spring http://www.mcmaster.com/#9434K161 to increase the checking spring force 75% from OEM. I'm not sure what this equates to in shifter "feel", but for $5 it would be worth a try. An easier thing to try; is to add a spacer (small washer) between the spring and nut about 1mm thick. Let me know if you try it and if it helps or not.

Here's my messy calculations:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/16631740358_7340b68be4_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rkG1Y7)

Bob_n_Cincy

03-15-2015, 11:32 AM

Did some math for fun and found that you can get this spring http://www.mcmaster.com/#9434K161 to increase the checking spring force 75% from OEM. I'm not sure what this equates to in shifter "feel", but for $5 it would be worth a try. An easier thing to try; is to add a spacer (small washer) between the spring and nut about 1mm thick. Let me know if you try it and if it helps or not.

Here's my messy calculations:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/16631740358_7340b68be4_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rkG1Y7)

Wow TouchStone,
I asked a simple question and I get a precise answer with art. You get extra credit.
I just added a pack of springs you suggested to my weekly Mcmaster order. I'll report back on how they feel.
Thanks Again.
Bob

Mitch Wright

03-15-2015, 02:15 PM

Thanks for the McMaster Carr spring tip.
Back when we raced Datsun 510's and 240Z's we used pop rivet washers to shim the dents. they worked great for the oil pressure relieve valve too.

TouchStone

03-15-2015, 10:30 PM

Here's the offending tranny part and the ominous bag I put it in. I still cant believe I left this out during the first build.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7607/16828553561_7a73f3dc13_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rD5JFc)

I had to dissemble a majority of the tranny to gain access to the install location of this part.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/16642243280_9e9dd4085c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rmBR7Y)https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8561/16829616935_50d9619acb.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDbbMe)

TouchStone

03-15-2015, 11:29 PM

Today I mostly finished assembly of the intake manifold and mounted it to the engine. Just a couple vent hoses left.

I replaced the following parts from my donor:

Coolant cross-over pipe (pitted mating surface)
Turbo air intake (Godspeed)
Wiring harness (replaced with used harness from an '05)
Engine block vent hoses (Mishimoto)
Turbo air-bypass and outlet hoses
Removed TGV's

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7616/16828500322_5d360e892d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rD5sRh)

Since I ditched the donor hoses I lost the special preformed evap hoses that connect the intake manifold to the purge solenoid valve. This made it difficult for two reasons; I did not feel like buying a new hose from Subaru, and I did not want to use long lengths of PCV hose to maintain the minimum bend radius. To fix this I made a bracket that reorients the solenoid valve (Bracket mounts to the turbo intake mount point. This only requires two 5in hoses (shorter than the pre-bent OEM hoses). Its new location would probably interfere with the power steering pump but I've already de-powered the steering rack. Also removed the purge valve as suggested by others.

I want to send in my fuel injectors to be ultasonic cleaned, and flow tested. Can anyone recommend a place?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7631/16829615525_d8a5e274a9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDbbmV)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8671/16643499269_5f19cb667f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rmJhtX)

TouchStone

03-15-2015, 11:33 PM

Here's a garage snapshot. See if you can spot the rubber ducky. Enjoy!

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8707/16828549411_d3c5f1261d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rD5HrD)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8735/16829614955_5a37c5df0f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDbbc6)

rtz

03-16-2015, 03:18 AM

I want to send in my fuel injectors to be ultasonic cleaned, and flow tested. Can anyone recommend a place?

This place can do it: http://www.deatschwerks.com/services/fuel-injector-services

Tamra

03-16-2015, 07:16 AM

The engine looks great!

Harley818

03-17-2015, 12:28 AM

Dont forget to do Waynes coolant mod into the upper coolant casting before you go any further. It will be much easier before you install the engine, although a few of us have done it.

TouchStone

03-17-2015, 10:58 AM

Dont forget to do Waynes coolant mod into the upper coolant casting before you go any further. It will be much easier before you install the engine, although a few of us have done it.

What mod is this?

billjr212

03-17-2015, 11:35 AM

What mod is this?

See post #8 in the attached.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13682-Help-with-engine-cooling-burping&highlight=wayne%27s+coolant+mod

Alternatively you can get a VW elbow which has a barb off of it to run back to the degas tank. (Goldwing did this and I copied)

TouchStone

03-19-2015, 01:18 AM

Harley/Billjr

Ill definatly be adding that port to help fill the coolant. Thanks for pointing it out.

TouchStone

03-19-2015, 01:35 AM

Sent out my injectors to "deatschwerks (http://www.deatschwerks.com/services/fuel-injector-services)", should have them back in a week or two. I like that they send out detailed test results.

I wrapped my donor exhaust manifold and Grimmspeed up-pipe with DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap. I'm not sure if this will actually improve performance, I mainly did it for the look. I'm not super happy with the job I did, but my excuse is that the 3 part OEM exhaust design does not make for an ideal wrap.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8717/16240320553_03c8349e1a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qK6TuM)

tebriel

03-19-2015, 09:55 AM

This place can do it: http://www.deatschwerks.com/services/fuel-injector-services

I used to use racetronix.com back in the day with my turbo saturns.

Bob_n_Cincy

03-19-2015, 10:15 AM

I wrapped my donor exhaust manifold and Grimmspeed up-pipe with DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap. I'm not sure if this will actually improve performance, I mainly did it for the look. I'm not super happy with the job I did, but my excuse is that the 3 part OEM exhaust design does not make for an ideal wrap.

The main reason for wrapping the exhaust is to keep the heat out of the engine bay. I used SS hose clamps every so far to keep it tight.
Bob

flynntuna

03-19-2015, 12:48 PM

39697Has any one have any experience with this tool?

http://clamptool.com/pages/how2.html

Now back to your regularly scheduled thread. :rolleyes:

TouchStone

03-21-2015, 08:14 PM

Painted tranny plate.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8686/16677681777_f6e34cec55_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rpKtKx)

flynntuna

03-21-2015, 08:26 PM

That is soooo nice, the talent and imagination on this forum is outstanding!

TouchStone

03-28-2015, 01:08 AM

Went to harbor freight to buy some automobile wheel dollys, however they were on sale and sold out. So instead I built two rollable support bridges out of carpet dollys (inspired by another member). Total cost was around $60 half what I was gonna pay.

The frame fits just bearly sideway in my garage which means I can turn the car around to drop the engine in.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7611/16713448959_789b0cb7f3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rsUN66)

Now my daily driver will fit in the garage as well.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7600/16713994069_8aca33d78e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rsXA8x)

TouchStone

03-28-2015, 01:30 AM

Someone made me jealous that they dropped their engine in. So of course I had to do the same.

I decided to drop in the engine separate from the tranny since many people have complained about the difficulty of getting the engine in the 818. Plus the two were already seperated. Once the engine is in you need to add temporary support to keep it from tilting foward. I used a couple 2x4's, that can be seen in the picture, braced against the steering wheel pump and alternator brackets. (If you know a better way tell me)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8700/16745051220_9052081b60_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rvGLkE)https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7595/16746288879_d9903ded37_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rvP7fB)

It took me two days to get the tranny in (due to inexperience). I had not aligned the clutch disk with the flywheel bearing. I used an assortment of sockets to fake the alignment tool and eyeballed it. Worked like a charm, very happy thats done ;).

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8741/16331705103_f76a2a7ef2_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qTbfWt)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7651/16925838116_5e6246a488_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rMFkZ7)

Tamra

03-28-2015, 03:35 AM

Congrats on getting the engine in!

I'm jealous of your garage.

Hindsight

03-28-2015, 06:09 AM

Nice work!

nkw8181

03-30-2015, 08:54 AM

Lookin good!

NevaLift2Shift

03-30-2015, 10:58 AM

Looking really good. I'm in the Dallas area too. Just getting the donor torn apart and the parts all cleaned and painted. Should only be a month before I get my kit in. Let me know if you need any help. Would be glad to.

nkw8181

03-30-2015, 07:03 PM

Sounds like there's three of us now in dallas!

TouchStone

03-31-2015, 01:36 AM

Awesome! Now its a crowd.

TouchStone

03-31-2015, 01:43 AM

Replaced my engine mounts with STI mounts. They look like they are just replacement parts but the rubber used is supposed to be stiffer and higher quality. They are also half the price of cusco mounts.

Now I officially have the engine in.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7625/16798109030_76ceea0c73_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rAoGzu)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8742/16984664631_8009f59ed6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rSSR4n)

TouchStone

03-31-2015, 01:48 AM

Fuel Injector came back from deatschwerks. All 4 are consistent which is good enough for me.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8728/16986652805_dc66cbacce_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rT435e)

STiPWRD

03-31-2015, 08:38 AM

I also picked up the stiffer STI (group-n) mounts but I noticed their steel mounting plates didn't include the integrated heat shields like the stock wrx plates. I ended up swapping the steel plates to retain the heat shields with the stiffer mounts.

TouchStone

04-12-2015, 08:16 PM

TouchStone

04-12-2015, 08:26 PM

Made a temporary table out of the shipping crate my engine shipped in. I'm going to be using it to layout and route wires for my chassis harness. The tape on the table is an initial layout plan for the front and rear or the car. Still need to measure the cabin for wiring.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7715/16940652760_e028b5cfd7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rNZgS1)

TouchStone

04-20-2015, 08:27 PM

A messy table, will most likely get much messier.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5327/17018518260_aa565b8782_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rVSmyC)

Bob_n_Cincy

04-20-2015, 09:39 PM

Touchstone,
Take a look at my thread,
It might help you out. Let me know if you have questions.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=146406&viewfull=1#post146406

TouchStone

04-23-2015, 01:25 AM

Woot, I've got one working headlight. Actually both would work if plugged in. This was mainly a test to make sure the relays are working as I expect them to.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8780/16618517794_4caba7f958.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rjwfmS) https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7726/17240969495_3c0e31a0e2.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sgwtyK)

Harley818

04-25-2015, 01:31 AM

Good call on the group N mounts.... from what I hear, the stock ones allow too much movement.
i got the type N for engine and tranny. They are waaaay stiffer.

I can relate to the wiring.... it will get way more messy!

I did something similar, but laid the plywood on top of the rollbar and the front of the car..... right at work height and helped space it out right.
I used the stock wiring, and just cut out and spliced in where necessary. All works now.

See post #92, 94, etc
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14763-Harley-s-818S/page3

TouchStone

05-05-2015, 11:15 PM

Got my front brake rotors in. The first paint job I did on the calipers is already noticeably flaking (bad paint job or surface prep?). So I think I'm going to repaint my calipers and probably change the color while I'm at it.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7731/17196426870_cb962c2c67_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/scAbAs)https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7778/17383648221_0a13e7d287_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/su8JYM)

TouchStone

05-05-2015, 11:52 PM

Finished wiring for the front lights and radiator fans. I'm happy with how it looks after the wire sheath is in place.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8715/17385310081_577db6a4e8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/suhfZx)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8838/17385641275_f1cb73246a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/suiXrM)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5346/16765368553_992dcce564_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rxuTYv)

Jaime

05-06-2015, 07:14 AM

Have you considered putting a connector in the front section of the harness so you can take the nose off with removing all of the individual light plugs and pulling all of the zip ties?

TouchStone

05-06-2015, 10:32 AM

Have you considered putting a connector in the front section of the harness so you can take the nose off with removing all of the individual light plugs and pulling all of the zip ties?

I hadn't considered ever taking the nose off. There is only 8 connectors in the front and I'll be using removable plastic clips instead of zip ties to hold the wires. So it shouldn't be too hard if the need arises.

TouchStone

05-08-2015, 09:46 PM

Time for a quick rant about Subaru's wiring harness.

Who came up with the idea to do this to wires? That black stuff reminds me of Silly Putty but much stickier and certainly not silly more like ridiculous ... "Ridiculous Putty"

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8893/17440434215_75d49462ed_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sz9MtD)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5338/17252706558_f8aa563359_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/shyCzU)

I dont know why they couldn't just do something easy and clean.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7677/17431798532_4969839bd9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/syowoy)

TouchStone

05-10-2015, 12:45 AM

You can never have too many wires.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7684/17289436399_1b8ca76d6f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/skNT62)

TouchStone

05-15-2015, 05:14 PM

Testing my ECU with a code scanner and amp meter to make sure things are receiving power and communicating. The ECU reported a bunch of engine errors, I cant imagine why.

I didn't have a car battery laying around so I grabbed the 12V battery from my cordless drill which works fine since I'm not planning on cranking the engine with it. Standalone the ECU uses uses about 3/4 to 1 amp of power.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7725/16888305463_f39d46909f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rJmYQp) https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7668/16888295523_9cc9cbd237_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rJmVT2)

TouchStone

05-15-2015, 05:22 PM

Example of a bad solder connection I found off of my donor harness. Since I needed this connector for the wastegate I had to salvage what I could from it.

Before:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8728/17470963738_784d59953c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sBRfQJ)

After:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7703/17641237696_55767dc8e3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sSTXmC)

As reference this is what a good solder connection should look like. I am very confident that in a pull test the wire would break before the solder connection breaks.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8696/16784691754_2c7e04e7f3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rzcW69)

Hindsight

05-15-2015, 07:45 PM

Looks good. Are you using a soldering pencil or a mini torch?

TouchStone

05-15-2015, 09:38 PM

Looks good. Are you using a soldering pencil or a mini torch?

I use a Hakko 936 solder iron I bought from sparkfun years ago https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/9672. An excellent tool with temperature control.

TouchStone

05-15-2015, 10:23 PM

Mostly done with the harness now, here's some in progress pictures:

All the wires are laid out and needs a few more connectors from the donor.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5466/17562058076_5bb0ff9463_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sKU91L)

Soldered the main engine connectors to the harness, I used dual lined heat shrink to add support and waterproofing to the solder joint. The black connector has 6 unused wires which were used for the TGV valves and sensors. Would have de-pinned the connector but it would have left openings and defeated the water proofing.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5329/17006278183_651b8b60fb_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rUMC1P)

Installed wire wrap
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5326/17667696235_6a5a564b17_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sVeyyk)

TouchStone

05-17-2015, 12:22 AM

Finished and installed the harness today. Install was easy and uneventful. I was planning on widening the hole in the front firewall to fit the ABS connector but surprisingly I was able to fit it with a little bit of work.

Side by side comparison makes me happy. I weighed the two, donor (after my tear-down) was 37.8 lbs and the new harness weighs 14.8 lbs.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8718/17129027224_96f4f48182_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/s6CK2A)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5328/17570340308_1269ff7783_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sLCA2S)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8759/17758557861_5974c89a62_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t4gfy6)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8765/17755538282_071b9af9c6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t3ZLWo)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7691/17571939279_2013041c43_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sLLMmk)

Tamra

05-17-2015, 07:21 AM

22lbs off and easy to install sounds like a win!! How many hours do you estimate that you put into it?

Bob_n_Cincy

05-17-2015, 09:10 AM

Great Job Touchstone.
I'm sure you spent lots of hours, but the personal satisfaction is priceless.
Bob

STiPWRD

05-18-2015, 07:24 AM

wow great work on the harness!

milkman dan

05-18-2015, 11:36 AM

Great looking harness! Also curious about how many hours you put into the harness.

TouchStone

05-18-2015, 07:09 PM

I put about 20 hrs into the design and 60-80 hrs build time over 3 weeks. Total material cost was about $650, however I have lots of left over wire due to minimum quantities I had to buy. I have enough wire to make 3 or 4 more harnesses.

Hindsight

05-18-2015, 09:08 PM

Very clean harness! What brand of wire and braid did you use?

TouchStone

05-18-2015, 11:03 PM

Everything came from Waytek Wire. I used primarily 14GA GXL & 22GA TXL Cross-linked wire and bundled it with various sizes of Flexo F6 Split.

TouchStone

05-19-2015, 10:36 PM

Painting my brakes, for the second time, I'm using red G2 caliper paint. It looks a bit orange too me but they are still drying. I built the stand to hold the brakes and bracket separately but decided not disassemble the brakes to do so. Setting them on top worked just as well.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5462/17259619704_ec25511f4d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sib4C5)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5336/17695896789_f9a0289639_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sXJ6AM)

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7684/17695894129_0eb839dde0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sXJ5NV)

nkw8181

05-25-2015, 03:30 PM

Man looking great!

TouchStone

05-27-2015, 12:34 AM

Made progress over the Memorial weekend.

Mounted and bled the brakes. Also bled the clutch.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8770/18140629782_5ff5cd7680_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tD2te1)

Installed air intake

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7773/18145204641_94e27ffd82_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tDqVaT)
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7794/17957911459_ea9b5bb706_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tmSZr6)

Mounted some of the electronics and ground points to the chassis.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8780/17523523613_7b6ef467ce_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sGuD4t)

TouchStone

06-01-2015, 01:52 PM

A part I was waiting for came in earlier than I expected so I was able to install the turbo, inter-cooler and exhaust. Then put in engine oil, gear oil and coolant. Installed some temporary wiring, then fired her up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ20wwxnYrk

I was surprised by how quiet the engine was without a muffler. I suppose the cat dampens the noise quite a bit but after hearing this I'm temped to just run straight pipes.

TouchStone

06-01-2015, 02:01 PM

Wouldn't start a second time since the battery was low (starter makes nasty sounds). Pulled the battery out of my Focus and gave it a another try. This time some fluid, probably gas dripped out of the exhaust. I haven't seen this happen again after several more starts. My guess is their was some build up from the failed starts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLNJ3cFI97k

I do have a cooling issue, I tried doing something different by running the heater hose to the water tank instead of to the bypass line to help limit the amount of water bypassing the radiator. The engine temp sensor works with this configuration, even turning on the fans, but the thermostat just doesn't get enough hot water to open. Easy to fix but should have just followed the directions.

billjr212

06-01-2015, 03:02 PM

I was surprised by how quiet the engine was without a muffler. I suppose the cat dampens the noise quite a bit but after hearing this I'm temped to just run straight pipes.

Congrats on the milestone! That decibel level rises pretty dramatically as it revs and under load, so you may want to hold off on the jump to a straight pipe until after your first drive (though many will do it and enjoy every minute). I had the exact same thought when I did my first start a few months back. After my first few drives, I'm leaving the cat in for now to serve as a "muffler."

nkw8181

06-01-2015, 03:14 PM

Wow! Congrats you beat me to it! So when's the first Drive :)

Tamra

06-01-2015, 03:29 PM

Bob_n_Cincy

06-01-2015, 06:22 PM

Congrats on the milestone!!

I'm curious how much quieter ours will be with a cat installed (will be installed before our trip to the DMV). With no cat, but one bullet muffler and one additional muffler, we will not pass sound at an SCCA solo event on a cloudy day (and we barely squeak through on a clear day). We'll have to do a turn down or something else to stay legal. Might be something to consider if you plan on attending any events with sound regs (our DMV also requires a muffler).

I also agree with Billjr. Ours is pleasantly quiet while idling, but when you get on the throttle it sounds like a beast :)

Jodhua,
Great job on the first start.

We have a cat in the up-pipe and another cat in the down-pipe. Nothing else.
We were also surprised at how quiet it is.

At are local autocross event I asked a lot of others to listen to how loud we were. They say we are only average.
You can watch my videos and get a good Idea of sound.

www.youtube.com/channel/UC3EKhwG0mrhAIjOAxAc8opw

Bob

Hindsight

06-01-2015, 06:46 PM

Congrats on the first start!

Buzz Skyline

06-04-2015, 08:03 PM

We have the same exhaust on our 818 as you do in your video. We took it out for a spin today, and it's pleasantly loud from the cabin even with all the body panels on. To my uncalibrated ears, it seems like it will probably pass SCCA noise limits for autocross (100 db at 50ft), which is consistent with Bob's experience. You won't need ear plugs, but it's loud enough that we couldn't talk to each other when I was getting on the throttle.

TouchStone

06-04-2015, 10:52 PM

nkw8181

06-05-2015, 09:51 AM

. You won't need ear plugs, but it's loud enough that we couldn't talk to each other when I was getting on the throttle.

That is a new way to end an argument or just to shut someone up :)

billjr212

06-05-2015, 10:09 AM

Did you mount the cat somewhere? or does it just hang off of the turbo?

You can make a simple angle bracket and run it over to the transmission.

I made one just like Quiny's in this post except I used aluminum:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15875-Exhaust-hanger-for-turbo-cars&p=173354&viewfull=1#post173354

TouchStone

06-08-2015, 10:14 PM

Cooling system is fixed and managed to get another half gallon in the system. Added a steering rack limiter sized for the donor wheels. I needed one of these for each side, which reduced the turning angle by quite a bit. Made them in 2 halves so they can easily be removed and re-sized when I get new wheels.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/281/18000771834_22c0267eff_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tqEEk5)

First time putting the wheels on. Now its finally starting to look like a car (or go-kart).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/412/18623411565_665b6b2a7e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/unFRqR)

TouchStone

06-08-2015, 10:23 PM

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/282/18618719022_06a192f583_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ungNuW)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8899/18437146279_58e5b3582c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u6ecfp)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/522/18002661023_e353845b44_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tqQkVi)

TouchStone

06-08-2015, 10:28 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deDh0tIJVCk

Hindsight

06-09-2015, 05:38 AM

Congrats on the milestone!

Tamra

06-09-2015, 07:11 AM

Looks great and congrats on the first drive!!

nkw8181

06-09-2015, 10:56 AM

Awesome!

TouchStone

06-12-2015, 09:12 PM

Happy Birthday to me.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/548/18751610285_fdce662250_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uz1UrB)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8883/18563878930_8065c3743e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uhqJs7)

TouchStone

06-24-2015, 10:49 PM

Got the MX-5 Hand Brake installed. It fits very well with a set of brackets and spacers. Was even able to reuse the donors pull cable L/R balancer as is.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5595/18248892903_772ca56d47_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tNAm5x)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/394/19109477536_cbe59b84a0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/v7D4UC)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/555/18515015193_5027664624_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ud7hXT)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3929/18949511299_cb8978db92_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uSvcw4)

Flamshackle

06-25-2015, 06:08 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deDh0tIJVCk

So good! Well done :-)

TouchStone

06-26-2015, 10:06 PM

Just getting started on the body work.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/374/19193541961_8436f29a5f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vf4Vkg)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/343/18567425374_f291370c52_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uhJUFG)

TouchStone

07-01-2015, 11:54 PM

New wheels and tires installed. I went with FFR wheels and 235/40R17 front and 255/35R18 rear tires. I'm a bit concerned about the clearance on the rear tires, anyone know the required minimum clearance?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/345/19157199739_15f7384824_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vbRE4e)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/508/19157197559_afda8e7f61_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vbRDpD)https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/291/18720826764_fa7e3c4825_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uwi8zf)

07FIREBLADE

07-02-2015, 12:22 AM

Go with the vcp wide trailing arms. You will be fine. I have the size on my rear and there's plenty of clearance with different arms.

Tamra

07-02-2015, 06:47 AM

That's interesting that their wheel + recommended tire size does not fit with the OEM parts. The rears will rub.

We have 17x8 et 45 with 255/40/17 tires on the rear. For regular street driving style, they don't rub, but at autocross, we left rubber on the OEM trailing arms (upper was fine), purely due to tire deflection under hard cornering. With those wheels being an extra 1/2" wider (so stick in .25" closer than ours) but only .19" (5mm) lower offset, you should have even more rubbing. Either the VCP arms or a small spacer should fix that for you.

Your fronts will rub at full lock too but only because of your choice of tire size.

STiPWRD

07-02-2015, 07:25 AM

I have almost the same wheels (DR31s) and had a similar rear tire clearance. I fixed it on the cheap with some 10mm spacers. Bringing the tires out wider may also make them more flush with the body.

TouchStone

07-06-2015, 11:37 PM

I added 5mm spacers all around. Still dont get lock to lock on the fronts but I do get much better turning than with the donor wheels.

Here is a picture of the increased space in the rears.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/514/19395226075_232f15a91e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vxTAZz)

Frank818

07-07-2015, 06:35 PM

You mention lock to lock on the front wheel but show a pic of the rear wheel, is that a typo?

Here my regulation tells me I need 5mm space between any moving parts (that include belts vs frame, tires vs shocks, vs links, etc., but does not include vs fenders, for the fenders as long it does not touch at any compression point they are ok).

TouchStone

07-09-2015, 11:15 PM

Installed Wayne's exhaust. Much lighter than the donor cat. I should have taken weight measurements.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/18944775494_5355506436_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uS5VJf)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bB5uMqYeWc

Started the headlight installation. This is not an easy task. I can imagine that once everything is finally seated well, then the headlight alignment will be way off.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/520/19379381570_f281706c74_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vwuoYs)

07FIREBLADE

07-10-2015, 01:06 AM

Since when did wayne offer an exhaust? Specs, sounds pretty good.

Tamra

07-10-2015, 08:13 AM

Started the headlight installation. This is not an easy task. I can imagine that once everything is finally seated well, then the headlight alignment will be way off.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/520/19379381570_f281706c74_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vwuoYs)

Just wait until you add the hood and the windshield into the mix...

TouchStone

07-10-2015, 11:34 AM

Since when did wayne offer an exhaust? Specs, sounds pretty good.

That was my reaction as well. It is a stainless steel bellmouth into a 3" Vibrant muffler. I believe it is this part: http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1031_1110&products_id=29

TouchStone

07-10-2015, 11:39 AM

Just wait until you add the hood and the windshield into the mix...

Thanks for the good news:(. Took me a full day to get that one headlight in.

07FIREBLADE

07-10-2015, 12:10 PM

Also wait until you go and aim the headlights. You cant reach the adjusters with everything bolt together. Its a real pain good luck you will be fine.

On another note how do you like his exhaust, have you driven with it in gocart form or just threw it on there. If given the choice would you go quieter to get rid of drone. Only reason why Im asking is because I esentially have the same setup if its from vibrant just routed different and mine drones like no other when cruising. How much was his setup? Its not listed on his site.

TouchStone

07-10-2015, 12:59 PM

The video is everything I've done with it. At idle it is just as loud as the donor cat but the vibrant muffler makes a smoother sound. I wont be driving it until I get the car tuned on the 20th, will have more video then. Wayne sold it for $375.

nkw8181

07-12-2015, 01:15 AM

Looks like you will beat me to the tune. Looking good.

ZenitramNaes

07-12-2015, 11:54 PM

Keep up the great, fast paced work! What's the quickest someone has ever put one of these together?

Bob_n_Cincy

07-13-2015, 12:18 AM

Keep up the great, fast paced work! What's the quickest someone has ever put one of these together?

I think Wayne (super human) has done a lot of Factory five cars. He is trying to do one in 40 hour.
The first timers are taking 200 to 800 hours. (my wild guess) A lot depends on how stock you want to go.
Bob

TouchStone

07-13-2015, 01:10 AM

Worked on the other headlight. Took a time-lapse this time, it is ridiculous the number of times we installed and removed the headlight to get it to fit right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qk5-8kI-7Qc&feature=youtu.be

Only the have the buckets and headlights bolted in.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/379/19647169962_1496c49d75_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vW9T8G)

Tamra

07-13-2015, 06:16 AM

That looks great! Were you able to get the hood to sit flush? Be prepared to do a bit more trimming when you install the windshield, as it pushes everything out and forward in awkward ways.

TouchStone

07-13-2015, 10:29 AM

That looks great! Were you able to get the hood to sit flush? Be prepared to do a bit more trimming when you install the windshield, as it pushes everything out and forward in awkward ways.

The hood looks like it sits 2-4mm too high all around. What is a good way to trim the bottom edge of the hood and get it even. How about the wiper kit, is there any major body alignment that needs to happen to get the wiper kit installed?

TouchStone

07-15-2015, 09:46 AM

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/309/19571615881_a3f3ae407b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vPtDx8)

Is this a slow coolant leak? The clam is very tight.

icky

07-15-2015, 12:04 PM

Try replacing the worm clamp with an oem spring type clamp. Often times what happens is the rubber starts to give a little after tightening, especially when heated, the worm clamps cant apply any more tension, then they leak.

Hindsight

07-15-2015, 12:35 PM

I'm a huge fan of the constant tension spring clamps icky mentioned. You can get them from mcMaster or there is also a seller on Amazon who sells them (same ones as mcMaster). They are rated for their ideal EXPANDED diameter. So take some calipers to the hose (which has been attached to whatever you attach it to) and get a measurement then find the closest spring clamp to it. Nearly all (if not all) OEMs use these exclusively and have for decades.

I will say that what you show above might not be an issue. Many coolants are designed to self-seal when exposed to air (like blood), and a very tiny amount of crusted coolant showing right at the edge of the hose is not necessarily an issue, at least, not in my experience. I see that on two of my cars and haven't had to add coolant in over two years to either of them.

The other option is instead of using those dual layer adapter/coupler setups from FFR, you can just buy another WRX radiator hose and cut it. Do that and you don't need any of the couplers. I have a pic of it in my build thread.

TouchStone

07-21-2015, 10:43 PM

A stressful couple of days. I attempted to arrange an alignment and tune at two different shops on the same day to minimize time off from work and trailer rental. Needless to say that didn't go as planned. The alignment shop wasn't able to fix the front camber since I mounted the lower control arms on the wrong points. However, they were able to align the rears which was good enough to get it tuned. Then at the tuning shop their main tuner was out sick :(. Next day, had the shop moved the lower control arms outward and then put it on the dyno;).

http://youtu.be/QckoILt92QY

It pulled about 205hp, due to the injectors being too small and needing an 3port boost solenoid.

Then took it back to the alignment shop for the front, no problem there except that the aluminum panel on the bottom caught on the uhaul trailer on the last load :mad:.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/324/19282942533_bb3f6d69b1_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vnY81r)

A couple stressful days but at the end of it I'm still very happy. Nothing major wrong and the car goes like hell!

Tamra

07-22-2015, 07:04 AM

Congrats!!!!

What were your final alignment settings? Also, which control arms do you have and which points did you have to move them to?

We wanted more camber out of our aluminum arms, but when we tried to move them to the outer hole we ran out of the tie rod length, so instead we had to cut the upper arms shorter to bring the top in.

Tamra

07-22-2015, 07:05 AM

Oh yeah, and we had the exact same panel get bent on the u-haul trailer one time. Those trailers are not made for sports cars!

metalmaker12

07-22-2015, 07:16 AM

I
A stressful couple of days. I attempted to arrange an alignment and tune at two different shops on the same day to minimize time off from work and trailer rental. Needless to say that didn't go as planned. The alignment shop wasn't able to fix the front camber since I mounted the lower control arms on the wrong points. However, they were able to align the rears which was good enough to get it tuned. Then at the tuning shop their main tuner was out sick :(. Next day, had the shop moved the lower control arms outward and then put it on the dyno;).

http://youtu.be/QckoILt92QY

It pulled about 205hp, due to the injectors being too small and needing an 3port boost solenoid.

Then took it back to the alignment shop for the front, no problem there except that the aluminum panel on the bottom caught on the uhaul trailer on the last load :mad:.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/324/19282942533_bb3f6d69b1_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vnY81r)

A couple stressful days but at the end of it I'm still very happy. Nothing major wrong and the car goes like hell!

What turbo are you running to need bigger injectors and you can tune with the stock boost solenoid no prob, so I am confused. But any how congrats on getting the alignment sorted

TouchStone

07-22-2015, 03:24 PM

What turbo are you running to need bigger injectors and you can tune with the stock boost solenoid no prob, so I am confused. But any how congrats on getting the alignment sorted

The injectors came from my 2.0L donor, which has been rebuilt as a 2.5L hybrid. This is also the reason I was only getting 10psi of boost. They only recommended a boost solenoid and a bigger turbo (currently TD04) for even more hp.

Congrats!!!!

What were your final alignment settings? Also, which control arms do you have and which points did you have to move them to?

We wanted more camber out of our aluminum arms, but when we tried to move them to the outer hole we ran out of the tie rod length, so instead we had to cut the upper arms shorter to bring the top in.

I've got control arms from a 2003 wagon. They were mounted on the inner lower points and I could not shorten the uppers enough had a lot of positive camber. The correct position was the lower outer mount points. This was good news to me since it will largely fix my terrible turning radius.

The "Before Measurements" would be the maximum camber I could get with the lower arms on the outer holes and the upper arms as short as possible (no cutting).

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/19735190758_1bd7edaffe_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/w4W1DC)

TouchStone

07-28-2015, 01:50 AM

Windshield installed and cleaned.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/362/20077362965_27c715f537_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wAaJwr)

Finally starting to get these things off the floor. Its been this way for seven months.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/16224083620_5888831886_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qHEEPE)

Flamshackle

07-28-2015, 06:16 AM

wleehendrick

07-28-2015, 12:04 PM

Finally starting to get these things off the floor. Its been this way for seven months.

Ha, the next time my wife complains about paying for a storage unit (where my body panels are) I'll show her that!

nkw8181

07-28-2015, 12:44 PM

Looking good!

TouchStone

07-30-2015, 11:49 AM

Got the dash installed. Made a couple stupid mistakes like breaking off a tab on the gauge cluster and drilling some badly aligned holes. A bit of epoxy will have to do.

I'm concerned about the dash having only 2 screws to hold the front up. I don't plan on having a center console to help hold the middle either so I'm worried a single afternoon in the Texas sun will be enough to deform the dash and sag around the mount points. Anyone have a solution for better securing the dash?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/330/20090337936_d6823ca6c0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wBjewQ)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/484/20116620325_2886a8e38f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wDCWnt)

Hindsight

07-30-2015, 11:59 AM

The padded dash looks very nice. You've progressed very quickly on this build!

billjr212

07-30-2015, 12:05 PM

To better support the dash, you can just make an extra bracket or 2 from thin aluminum that look like the FFR ones. Doesn't have to be super thick, just use something in the range of the aluminum that is all over the rest of the car. Just make them wider. I replaced the right side bracket with one that is about 4-5 inches wide and attaches to the frame in 2 spots and the bottom of the dash in 2 spots because the FFR one wasn't the right size for where my dash ended up. I am going to have a center console though to support the middle.

But you could just as easily keep the 2 FFR brackets on the end, and make something 6-8 inches wide with 2 or 3 mount points and tuck it under the center of the dash.

Suggest putting your doors on first though to make sure the dash lines up right.

I also put a strip of foam weatherstripping on the cowl where the dash sits near the windshield plus a piece of rubber moulding on the leading edge of the dash, so it tucks up tight with the windshield. Then I put a black 1/4-20 bolt through each corner of the dash to the fiberglass cowl to keep it in place. No need for a rivnut as it's easy to reach up under the dash even with the doors in place.

TouchStone

07-30-2015, 12:22 PM

The padded dash looks very nice. You've progressed very quickly on this build!

Ah...but it is not padded.

To better support the dash, you can just make an extra bracket or 2 from thin aluminum that look like the FFR ones. Doesn't have to be super thick, just use something in the range of the aluminum that is all over the rest of the car. Just make them wider. I replaced the right side bracket with one that is about 4-5 inches wide and attaches to the frame in 2 spots and the bottom of the dash in 2 spots because the FFR one wasn't the right size for where my dash ended up. I am going to have a center console though to support the middle.

But you could just as easily keep the 2 FFR brackets on the end, and make something 6-8 inches wide with 2 or 3 mount points and tuck it under the center of the dash.

Suggest putting your doors on first though to make sure the dash lines up right.

I also put a strip of foam weatherstripping on the cowl where the dash sits near the windshield plus a piece of rubber moulding on the leading edge of the dash, so it tucks up tight with the windshield. Then I put a black 1/4-20 bolt through each corner of the dash to the fiberglass cowl to keep it in place. No need for a rivnut as it's easy to reach up under the dash even with the doors in place.

I like the FFR styled brackets since they mount at a single point, which allows for a slight adjustment of the dash left and right. I think I'll install a couple more of these and see how it holds up. Once the doors go on I'm thinking possibly an aluminum angle beam from the leftovers I used on the front bumper. I've thought of the weather stripping as well :D.

Tamra

07-30-2015, 12:32 PM

We put velcro under the dash along the windshield edge (out of sight) and it feels much more secure now.

Hindsight

07-30-2015, 12:48 PM

Ah...but it is not padded.

Really? It looks exactly like my padded dash. The padding is very thin.... 1/8" maybe a little less. Guess it's tough to tell from a pic.

Love those white body panels though ;)

billjr212

07-30-2015, 01:00 PM

I like the FFR styled brackets since they mount at a single point, which allows for a slight adjustment of the dash left and right. I think I'll install a couple more of these and see how it holds up. Once the doors go on I'm thinking possibly an aluminum angle beam from the leftovers I used on the front bumper. I've thought of the weather stripping as well :D.

The bigger issue I had with the doors went on was actually up and down. If the height isn't just right, it's really obvious/awkward at the point where the dash and door meet. The super rigid FFR brackets don't provide a lot of flexibility in that without stacking loads of washers here or there. That's why I suggested door panels first before fixing the location of the dash.

TouchStone

07-30-2015, 02:12 PM

The bigger issue I had with the doors went on was actually up and down. If the height isn't just right, it's really obvious/awkward at the point where the dash and door meet. The super rigid FFR brackets don't provide a lot of flexibility in that without stacking loads of washers here or there. That's why I suggested door panels first before fixing the location of the dash.

Ah good to know, I'll wait until I get the doors on before I secure it with more brackets.

TouchStone

07-30-2015, 10:17 PM

Changed out my gauge cluster lights with some LED lights I found on amazon. $10 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KSUA6HY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
The color and brightness look much better. Some locations ended up being too bright so I left the old bulbs in.

Picture comparison is not great since my camera kept adjusting the brightness. For reference the brake,battery,oil and MIL lights did not change in brightness.
Before:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/470/19970725390_0ccc1e1943_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wqKbTy)

After: I think the fuel and temp gauge is too bright, will probably try to de-solder one of the led elements.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/321/19536095924_8e5d73528c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vLkAG5)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/536/19537891873_a62fa3ec48_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vLuNyH)

TouchStone

07-30-2015, 10:24 PM

More stuff to fix! Previous epoxy fix already failed.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/461/19972209069_d5b1ed8124_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wqSMWe)

mikeb75

07-31-2015, 06:16 AM

Really like the new LED lighting in the cluster. More money to spend :)

Kurk818

07-31-2015, 11:34 AM

Try this for the plastic bonding. Ive had great results with it

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System-681925/100371829

K3LAG

07-31-2015, 01:29 PM

I found that pvc cement worked well for the plastic in the cluster. It melted the pieces together as it should. It took overnight to fully harden. It does attack the plastic so don't get it where you don't want it.

Larry

TouchStone

07-31-2015, 11:06 PM

Modded the cluster lights to be a bit dimmer. All the gauges now have a fairly even brightness.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/542/20174599452_e17d7d9178_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wJL6xA)

Frank818

08-01-2015, 06:01 PM

I did that kind of thing on my Corrado cluster years ago. It turned out awesome and very reliable too. You'll love it.

TouchStone

08-02-2015, 09:03 PM

Aligned and bolted the front bumper, fenders and passenger side body panels. Lots of trimming, adjusting, multiple assembly and removal, and lots of time! Other than that pretty easy.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/326/20248376491_959fa0c61c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wRhdTv)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3732/19621589763_58807cc916_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vTTM2M)

The dreaded bumper/hood/fender/light intersection. Not perfect, but good enough for now.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5618/19621844733_dd852ba929_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vTV5PP)

nkw8181

08-03-2015, 07:11 PM

Sooooo how's the injector install going?

TouchStone

08-04-2015, 01:05 AM

New injectors are on hold. Once I put them in I cant drive it anymore until it gets tuned again. My plan is to register first then upgrade injectors, turbo and boost controller. I installed a Walbro fuel pump already.

nkw8181

08-04-2015, 05:25 PM

Alright alright you can beat me to making it street legal. Then I'll just do what you do :)

TouchStone

08-08-2015, 11:35 PM

Got all the side panels installed and aligned. Waiting on Craig's hood hinges before installing hood latches.

This picture makes me happy :)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/404/20225997530_305432ec23_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wPiwpm)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/315/20227404399_46b86362f2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wPqJBH)

K3LAG

08-09-2015, 05:38 PM

Looks good. Nice job!

Larry

Flamshackle

08-10-2015, 03:47 AM

Frank818

08-10-2015, 06:45 PM

Yeah the red and black together look really great, nice cut of colors.

TouchStone

08-14-2015, 09:45 PM

Its out of the garage!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5776/20583055025_fde1e34921_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xmRxa4)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/763/20583053535_21dab804cc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xmRwHn)

billjr212

08-15-2015, 06:28 AM

Looking good. Congrats on the milestone. Are you able to go ahead with registration now that the body "shell" is fully in place?

Tamra

08-15-2015, 08:49 AM

I don't see any hood pins yet so I imagine he still has a bit to go. Considering that though, your body fits really well just laid in place! Our rear deck lid wants to pop up in the corners way more.

RM1SepEx

08-15-2015, 10:48 AM

I don't see any hood pins yet so I imagine he still has a bit to go. Considering that though, your body fits really well just laid in place! Our rear deck lid wants to pop up in the corners way more.

The sun and gravity are your friends... I used gallon containers to add to the gravity piece

Frank818

08-15-2015, 05:37 PM

Red is great!

metros

08-15-2015, 06:56 PM

The red looks really good. I had ruled painting red out because my last 2 fun cars were red. But this has me re-thinking that.

Your body lines look great. I'll be very happy if I can get mine to line up as nice as yours does.

RyanWReX_NV

08-16-2015, 02:39 AM

If those are the blue wrx injectors, you can grind off the restrictor plates on the end and get ~800cc. I did that and had them cleaned/flow tested. All were within 5cc at 824cc. My tuner didn't like them at first but I got a buttery smooth 318awhp 328awtq. (vf39, walboro 255lph,BC280 cams). I can get a lot more power but I had him limit the tune for the sake of the glass box. So far I have ~5k miles with no issues.

TouchStone

08-16-2015, 09:31 PM

Looking good. Congrats on the milestone. Are you able to go ahead with registration now that the body "shell" is fully in place?

I don't see any hood pins yet so I imagine he still has a bit to go. Considering that though, your body fits really well just laid in place! Our rear deck lid wants to pop up in the corners way more.

The top panels are just laid in place, waiting for Craig's hood hinges. Once the panel are all secured I'll try to get it registered.

I've trimmed my deck lid a bit to help with the corners popping up, they still pop up if you bump the car at all.

The red looks really good. I had ruled painting red out because my last 2 fun cars were red. But this has me re-thinking that.

Your body lines look great. I'll be very happy if I can get mine to line up as nice as yours does.

That is just the red gel-coat. It looks great in pictures and from a distance.

TouchStone

08-16-2015, 10:40 PM

Got a couple nice features working this weekend. The Sparco steering wheel hub does not come with a workable solution for the horn. It does however have a contact ring, so I rigged up a custom solution using a Dorman pin http://www.amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FJCUGC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00) and a mechanical pencil. I'll find out how long this will last eventually.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/640/20614715116_c3c49f21d3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xpDNAG)

The red piece is the shell of a mechanical pencil cut to size.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5744/20640963715_4fc5f09c6e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xrYkoK)

I glued these parts together so that the red part acts as support for the spring and wire.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5805/20020053673_0d2bbd425f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wv71tc)

Found a good location on the column and epoxied it in place.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/593/20454345689_b03606ecec_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xatSmz)

With the Sparco Hub in place the the spring is slightly compressed, maintaining a connection during rotation.

TouchStone

08-16-2015, 10:58 PM

Also fixed the turn signal so that it will auto turn off when exiting a turn. I used a small exhaust pipe I found at O'Reilly's and duplicated the OEM function. I was planning to weld the pipe to the sparco hub but I turns out the hub was non-magnetic, so I guess its cast aluminum. I got frustrated and impatient so I ended up with a bit of a hack.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5791/20614722436_1ed3b9a2d1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xpDQLU)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/661/20647630621_71a3c2b104_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xsyvep)

The angle brackets aren't bolted to the hub, instead they are acting as a clamp.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5765/20614734346_379d82bcc6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xpDUjf)

nkw8181

08-19-2015, 01:42 PM

Looking good!

TouchStone

08-19-2015, 11:46 PM

Hazard Light switch installed. I've wired it to blink along with the turn signal lights.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5705/20535195950_a588ebdf46_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xhCfjA)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5727/20535226748_5bfff6f7f6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xhCptA)

TouchStone

08-20-2015, 12:01 AM

I haven't seen many 818s with outside door handles. So I went out on a limb and installed these handles I got off ebay. Very easy installation.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/725/20535235578_8e00cb9a2b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xhCs6Q)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5719/20730079421_9bd60e16c9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xzR5or)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5716/20730001251_40318768bb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xzQF9F)

07FIREBLADE

08-20-2015, 12:36 AM

TouchStone

08-20-2015, 01:24 PM

Nice looking handles. What are they off of? Do you have a link to the auction you got them from. I was personally looking at maybe doing GTR handles, I like the way that they pop out when in use plus it would be rice so it would instantly add like 15hp ;)

Thats 15hp per handle!

Left and Right were sold separately:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371064017334?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271493405643?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Aero STI

08-20-2015, 02:56 PM

I need to modify my momo hub to flip the blinkers off after a turn. I think I'm following what you did, but any additional detail would be appreciated.

billjr212

08-20-2015, 03:09 PM

Anything special about that hazard light switch? I was thinking about ditching the oem Subaru one and putting in something like that.

TouchStone

08-20-2015, 04:51 PM

Anything special about that hazard light switch? I was thinking about ditching the oem Subaru one and putting in something like that.

You'll want a latching DPDT or DPST. If you want the switch led to blink with the turn signals you'll need an additional diode.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/19mm-Metal-On-Off-Switch-With-Ring-LED-2NO2NC-DPDT/1909881091.html

I wired mine like this:
44603

Frank818

08-20-2015, 07:04 PM

Hazard switch, really nice looking (handles too!), by blinking with the flashers, you mean every time you toggle a flasher it will blink the switch's light?

TouchStone

08-20-2015, 08:31 PM

Hazard switch, really nice looking (handles too!), by blinking with the flashers, you mean every time you toggle a flasher it will blink the switch's light?

What you want to happen is this: When using the turn signal (left or right) the hazard button indicator light does not turn on. Only when the hazard button is pressed does the hazard light blink.

If you don't use the extra diode then the hazard button light will turn on when using the left turn signal.

Frank818

08-21-2015, 07:32 PM

If you don't use the extra diode then the hazard button light will turn on when using the left turn signal.

How interesting!

Quiny

08-22-2015, 09:54 AM

I did something similar since I didn't like the OEM switch. I had to use a 3pdt relay (non-latching) and an after market hazard button. I did not wire the LED in the switch to blink I tied it with the dash lights so I can see it at night.

TouchStone

08-22-2015, 10:54 AM

TouchStone

08-24-2015, 12:31 PM

Texas is great, I got a 30 day permit for my car for $25. Will let me drive my car around enough to get it inspected and fully registered.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/593/20172131463_b20c593cd4_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wJxrU4)

Mechie3

08-24-2015, 12:45 PM

Texas is great, but Indiana doesn't inspect. lol.

I shipped your hood hinges out today at lunch. I'll send you tracking info. :D

TouchStone

08-24-2015, 01:03 PM

I participated in my first ever autocross event last Sunday. It was a lot fun and very exciting. Was a bit nervous to race for the first time especially in a car like this. Spun out in 3 of my 5 runs :p.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5699/20640069090_fcc6c93394_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xrTKsb)

Certainly got alot of attention.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/637/20638924818_3e2536a149_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xrMTim)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtuMhD3efJc

Bob_n_Cincy

08-24-2015, 01:31 PM

Way to go Josh.
Bob

Mechie3

08-24-2015, 02:56 PM

Spinning is good. If you never spin you're never trying to find the limit.

Bob_n_Cincy

08-24-2015, 03:30 PM

Spinning is good. If you never spin you're never trying to find the limit.
Michael and I must be really good. We've lost count of the spins. Probably 30-40.
Bob

TouchStone

08-29-2015, 01:09 AM

Installed Craig's hood hinges. It looks great unpainted and works great, anything to cut back on the hood pins.

Its an easy install, would have been easier if the front bumper wasn't in the way. I also think it needs a spacer between the bracket and the hood to prevent the hood from warping when bolted together. For now a bunch of washers will do.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/643/20779699908_3748f68a93_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xEeoQ5)
Bondo is still drying.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/610/20941395576_7286ecac4c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xUw8jq)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5782/20779880340_1355f9c30d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xEfjsY)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5764/20779881800_3a8b715562_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xEfjU9)

Tamra

08-29-2015, 03:27 AM

Nice!

Mechie3

08-29-2015, 07:21 AM

That was quick. Lol.

TouchStone

08-30-2015, 11:20 PM

Installed 550# springs on the rear. I'm wondering if the larger outer diameter is going to be a problem? The inner diameter is correct.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5814/20832759118_a9a4fb276a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xJVku3)

Also found my noise problem when going over moderately sized bumps. The flange that attaches the fender of the front bumper clips the wheels. I had trimmed this earlier, apparently wasn't enough.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5775/20832755668_04c0b41719_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xJVjsy)

TouchStone

09-05-2015, 01:07 AM

My donor turbo is looking pretty slick. New chra, ported, clocked and ceramic coated.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5691/20968475159_a286d00903_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xWUV8M)

Frank818

09-07-2015, 07:20 PM

Wow that's nice! Hopefully the ceramic will help!

nkw8181

09-08-2015, 07:40 AM

Looking great!

Zodiac

09-15-2015, 03:00 PM

Great work on the wiring harness. I'll looking into redoing mine soon. Do you have a list of which fuse/relays you are keeping and/or removing? It would really help me narrow some things down. Especially the SBF fuses cause I have no idea what they do, if they're needed, or if I can replace them with normal mini fuses.

looking to use THIS (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46357/?gclid=CKyM1ben2ccCFQtqfgodlFsJ9Q#Z7_EL9QHKG10GPM2 0IJGE61AK10S5) for everything as it has 10 relay positions (hope it's enough) and 40 mini fuses. Any advice as far as which terminals I should order for it or any other advice is greatly appreciated.

TouchStone

09-15-2015, 04:15 PM

A Short Blow Fuse (SBF) is fuse that is designed to burn up quickly when too much current (more than the rated value) is passed through it. During normal operation a SBF is viewed as a closed/shorted wire. It is a required safety device that will sacrifice itself or disconnect power when something goes wrong in the wiring. Nobody wants to see the effect of a battery turning a bundle of wires into a flaming ball of death. I replaced the main 80Amp SBF with this http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46691/80A-Bussmann-Circuit-Breaker/ Conveniently placed I can manually open this fuse to disconnect power which I'll use as an additional anti-theft device.

You can use your 10 relay power block (call them to find out what pins, rubber seals and crimper your need), I only needed 8 mini-relays since I reused the donor's main,fuel-pump, and high beam relays.

Check out my google drive folder below for the parts I ordered and schematics (2nd page for fuses and relays) I used for wiring.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...Xc&usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-jItpDPS-QXfjFpQjkteWpud0ZpckpQSjZsUWZQSlkwTmY2MVNja1B0NUly XzFsT3piZXc&usp=sharing)

Donor was a 2003 Wagon.

*Dont forget the brackets for the power block, sold individually you need 2.

Zodiac

09-15-2015, 09:26 PM

TouchStone

11-11-2015, 01:29 AM

Thanks I'll start more homework tonight haha

So did you put the entire system through the 80amp circuit breaker and disregard all the other SBF that come after it and just leave it as going through a normal mini fuse?

Also Is yours a 80amp because that's what a 2003 wagon uses? Mine is a 2006 and the diagram shows a 120amp main SBF.

I dont think it is critical to use SBF I just used the 80 amp fuse as the main and then a number of normal mini fuses. 80amps came from the 2003 wagon diagram.

TouchStone

11-11-2015, 01:38 AM

Finally made some progress after getting back from my trip. I've installed a different door handle since I didn't like the donor's. This took much longer than I had hoped due to the curvature of the plastic inset and I still have the other side to do.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/751/22517407358_9a745b88f3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AiMAHm)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/625/22314568363_dd99a4eb69_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zZRZKi)

nkw8181

11-11-2015, 03:38 PM

Nice!

AZPete

11-11-2015, 04:51 PM

Nice work. I'm looking for an upgraded door handle so your timing is good.
"This took much longer than I had hoped . . . "
Is there any project that doesn't apply to? I'm thinking I should get that quote tattooed on the back of my hand.

TouchStone

11-23-2015, 01:37 AM

Over the last two weekends I managed to pull the turbo, trany and clutch. Installed ID1000's, vf39, Wayne's rear trailing arms and lateral links. Unfortunately the vf39 does not work with Craig's heat shield and has very little clearance from the shock bar. I'm currently midway through the Perrin aos install. Still need to install a clutch and the awic system before it will run again.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/765/22937655900_6dc069eb6c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AWVtXS)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/662/22865497039_4decc8bcc7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AQxDDz)

07FIREBLADE

11-23-2015, 02:16 AM

Nice, what springs are those? The ones off the R setup?

Mechie3

11-23-2015, 09:09 AM

Unfortunately the vf39 does not work with Craig's heat shield and has very little clearance from the shock bar.

Hmm...a couple of people are running non stock turbos with that heatshield. Don't recall off hand if one of them is a VF39 though.

Kurk818

11-23-2015, 10:05 AM

I originally had the VF39 which required the notching on the crossbar to not interfere with the wastegate actuator. Your heat shield would not work with a VF39.

After the installation of the Blouch 2.5 Dom, your shield fit with minor modification.

Mechie3

11-23-2015, 10:51 AM

Thanks Kurk. You were one of the people I was thinking of. Surprised the 39 is larger package wise than the Dom. I'll make a note of this on my site.

TouchStone

11-23-2015, 01:21 PM

Nice, what springs are those? The ones off the R setup?

Eibach 2.5" x 8" #550

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-08002500550/overview/

TouchStone

11-23-2015, 01:27 PM

nkw8181

11-24-2015, 05:42 PM

I thought it was more of the waste gate that caused issues not the body of the turbo?

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 09:45 PM

How much clearance to the crossbar is required?

This is the blouch
http://i.imgur.com/bN80Zcl.jpg

And vf39
http://i.imgur.com/QNlz9Jz.jpg

Hindsight

11-24-2015, 10:44 PM

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 10:53 PM

While on the subject of turbo clearances, does anyone know if the stock-location turbos (from the WRX IHI to the VF39 to the Dom 1.5 XTR etc) all have their outlet flange in EXACTLY the same spot? I'm curious because I'm very close to building my exhaust and while I wills use the stock turbo at first, I will upgrade later - probably to a larger stock location and I don't want to have to alter the exhaust system I build.

They are all considered bolt on turbos with no modification required. The bottom turbo support brace is reused in all cases that I'm aware of, thus not changing the positioning.

Anyone else know something different?

Hindsight

11-24-2015, 11:51 PM

Thx, I figured it would be very close. Am hoping it's exact.

STiPWRD

11-25-2015, 09:17 AM

It's more or less exact (to within casting tolerances). BTW, my TD06 18G clears the cross bar with no modification but uses different water and oil fittings than stock.

TouchStone

11-25-2015, 09:02 PM

The VF39 has poor clearance to the shock bar at the wastegate actuator and if using the heat shield it hits the housing.

Left TD04; Right VF39 notice the difference in the housing size and wastegate actuator location.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5639/22684942753_0b7cc04974.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AyAg9D)https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5783/22683696834_58cda4c67b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AytSMh)

Since I wanted to keep using the heat shield and increase clearance I made several modifications to the heat shield and shock bar.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/760/23313045695_fed060f119_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Bw6sgH)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5736/23229468971_d0c3917ac3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BoH6PH)

nkw8181

11-25-2015, 09:04 PM

That's how you do it!

Frank818

11-27-2015, 07:45 AM

Pretty cool!

Coolspot

11-27-2015, 09:45 AM

Very nice build

TouchStone

11-28-2015, 11:33 PM

Used a hose clamp and a new razor blade to make very clean cuts.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/744/22756476384_982bb9b8a1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AEUTB7)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/739/22757688743_c7f1d0abcc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AF26ZR)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/733/23016893959_78bae06007_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B4VAFi)

Needed a slight angle to mate properly with the hose.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/604/23302278261_6260710251_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Bv9gui)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5701/23089079580_c019548a4b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BbiyWY)

I'm not sure what to do about this. Maybe nothing, after visual inspection the airflow does not appear to be restricted. Clocking the turbo any further would require heavy modifications to the wastegate.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5665/23276439722_cc64102e5e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BsRQAf)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5736/23016890119_5e95d3ae0a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B4Vzx6)

TouchStone

11-28-2015, 11:45 PM

Also worked with Nolan to reinforce the hood with carbon fiber and vinyl resin. Currently waiting for better weather conditions before application.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/718/23276479102_711e6fd14b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BsS3id)

TouchStone

11-28-2015, 11:51 PM

Short test run:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWP052sMAfA

Mechie3

11-29-2015, 07:53 AM

I wouldn't worry about airflow in that section just potential for wear. I'd keep an eye on it to make sure it isn't vibrating.

I like your hose cutting trick. So simple yet not so obvious.

nkw8181

11-29-2015, 01:29 PM

Sounds mean!

ben1272

12-03-2015, 08:17 PM

I think I like what you're doing here....look forward to seeing more of it. (re: the hood reinforcement)

TouchStone

12-05-2015, 10:08 PM

Mostly done, will see how much this stiffens the hood tomorrow. If I were to do it again I'd stay away from the complicated crosses.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/670/22922664794_6da25cce8f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AVADCw)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/780/23182963569_5fe2beb6f6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BjAKor)

Hindsight

12-06-2015, 10:47 AM

Looks nice!!!

Bob_n_Cincy

12-06-2015, 12:13 PM

Mostly done, will see how much this stiffens the hood tomorrow. If I were to do it again I'd stay away from the complicated crosses.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/780/23182963569_5fe2beb6f6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BjAKor)

JJ,
Looks strong.
Did you leave it dry on the table or on the car?
My rear deck gets flexed by the hood pins to pull the rear corners down.
Does yours sit on the car with out flexing?
bob

TouchStone

12-06-2015, 09:42 PM

Did you leave it dry on the table or on the car?
My rear deck gets flexed by the hood pins to pull the rear corners down.
Does yours sit on the car with out flexing?
bob

I flex it a little to get the corners down. I did support the corners while it was drying. Also with the way the supports were added I should still be able to bend the corners with latches slightly.

NevaLift2Shift

12-07-2015, 08:41 PM

Looks really good..

TouchStone

12-08-2015, 02:30 AM

I'm happy! These are such cool parts...Thanks Craig!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5682/23576654206_2d62a05944_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BVovU3)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5745/22975655193_604299e6cd_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B1heQ6)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5836/23576648786_0072e60930_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BVouhA)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/627/23576648016_996a111f88_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BVou4j)

Mechie3

12-08-2015, 06:25 AM

:D. Glad you like them. I like the removable installation too.

RM1SepEx

12-08-2015, 08:08 AM

:D. Glad you like them. I like the removable installation too.

I wish I would have done that! Nice job

TouchStone

12-10-2015, 03:41 AM

Took some pictures of the door handle install. The donor handles were very beat up and I wanted something a bit more modern so I got handles from a 2011 RX8.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5769/23565777931_2a7a302fcd_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BUqLL4)

It is easy to mount these using two screws instead of just one (another reason I was unhappy with the donor's). And the latch pull rod can be used with no modifications beyond bending to adjust the length.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/765/23537195802_7c8d341bea_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BRUhhJ)

The locking rod is a bit too short, so I welded on an extension.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/671/23018707483_79f12e771f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B55TLX)

Here is where things stop being easy... The handle liner is intended to mount into an organically shaped door liner not a flat sheet.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5720/23350068500_69675c8674_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BzncRW)

Fortunately, the FFR door liners are thermoplastic. Time for the heat gun.... Many hours later and many trial fit-ups I got something quite nice.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5828/23017593024_34f36a86e6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B4Zbu9)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5717/23350537650_fc0ba97c3b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BzpBjJ)

BTW once I countersunk the screws the hold the liner in I found that the screw threads would go through all the material and no long tighten any further (it wasn't striped, the treads stopped slightly before the head of the screw). To fix this I superglued scrap plastic to backside of the liner to give the screws extra material to hold onto.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5777/23017650274_b528feb839_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B4Ztvd)

nkw8181

12-11-2015, 09:25 AM

Man that looks good

TouchStone

12-13-2015, 11:23 PM

Some sheet metal work over the weekend.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5810/23039631693_43ce87d342_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B6W8Pc)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5727/23699871485_2fc302306c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/C7h36T)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/644/23071759894_ed11a1f64d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/B9LNpG)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5747/23733199165_2ec227369a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CadRg4)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/693/23624709762_4d7cf5b5dc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BZCP97)

Mechie3

12-14-2015, 07:08 AM

Ooh, nice. You should get an mr2 shifter and flip the cables. It would leave the front completely open.

TouchStone

12-15-2015, 12:50 PM

Yes! Its on my todo list. I also have to take care of the accelerator cable since the FFR's cable is too short.

TouchStone

12-29-2015, 05:24 PM

Made a quick fix to reverse the shift mechanism.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5795/24036833805_79f7af83b3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CC44g4)

TouchStone

12-31-2015, 12:20 AM

Ooh, nice. You should get an mr2 shifter and flip the cables. It would leave the front completely open.

Not quite an mr2 shifter, but it does free up the front.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5761/23708225769_f7eed251d5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/C81Rxg)

shoeish

12-31-2015, 12:39 PM

What is that shifter from? Looks good!

TouchStone

12-31-2015, 01:11 PM

What is that shifter from? Looks good!

Aftermarket for an acura rsx

TouchStone

01-08-2016, 12:28 AM

Making slow progress. I some parts back from powder-coat. Anyone able to install the sway bar with the front suspension installed?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1610/23615770114_2dd8e9f56d_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1591/23615765924_37a64a717c_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1502/23876171189_12aa40475e_c.jpg