New turbo install questions.

[C.Plavan]

I'm in the process of installing my Blouch Dom 1.5gtr. I ran into a few issues.

1. I had to loosen up the rear shock tower brace/wing mount to get it on. (PITA, but no biggie)

2. I went to remove the stock oil hardline an replace it with the supplied braided line from Blouch (with banjo bolt)- So I could just connect it to the block- Problem is, my hard oil line goes to the block then continues to tee off and go under the manifold somewhere. (If it didn't tee off the block, and run somewhere else also it would of been super easy of course).
EDIT: Found picture of what mine looks like.
http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/turbo/oil_feed/DSC08093.JPG

3. Next I thought, I'll keep the stock hard line on, remove the banjo bolt on the supplied braided oil line and use the included adapter that allows you to use the braided line on the stock hard line...... Then I had to remove one of the coolant hard lines to install the turbo to get it around the oil hard line. Once I did that, the line would too close and interfere with the turbo wastegate...Grrrrrrr
Picture-

http://i.imgur.com/ECN3xDpl.jpg

My motor is a 2006 WRX- Anyone run into this or have some good ideas for me to solve this?

[Samiam1017]

that runs to the avcs system there are tons of aftermarket braided line kits that replace both lines.

[C.Plavan]

Found out what I need to do.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/101927-turbo-oil-feed-avcs-line-replacement.html

[metalmaker12]

Carefully bend it to clear the actuator arm. Also remove as many of the filters in the banjo bolts, they get clogged over time and cause avcs and oiling issues. You don't really need all those lines, there nice and all but really not any more effective than oem. I will take a snap of my setup to see if it can help.

[icky]

Make sure to replace the hardline with a braided one or you may not get enough oil to the turbo. This is especially true on journal bearing turbos. Use two banjos (10 &12mm) one for the supply and one for the avcs solenoid. I ended up using a longer line from the avcs to the back of the block to get better routing.

Edit: also pay close attention to the banjo on the back of the head, it likes to leak.

[C.Plavan]

Carefully bend it to clear the actuator arm. Also remove as many of the filters in the banjo bolts, they get clogged over time and cause avcs and oiling issues. You don't really need all those lines, there nice and all but really not any more effective than oem. I will take a snap of my setup to see if it can help.

Thanks for the help. I'm so clueless with turbo's, I just don't want to screw something up. I read those metal lines can crack, so I was extra careful bending it (with a brake line bending tool). I got the turbo all installed.
http://i.imgur.com/y8nQPsvl.jpg

Is it safe to start up the motor just to check for leaks with my old stage 2 tune? I want to make sure everything is good before I start re-installing the shock brace/wing mount/turbo blanket/heat shield.

[wleehendrick]

Is it safe to start up the motor just to check for leaks with my old stage 2 tune? I want to make sure everything is good before I start re-installing the shock brace/wing mount/turbo blanket/heat shield.

Hi Chad, I'm no tuner, but IIRC correctly, if you've installed bigger injectors you should at least scale the duty cycle to get the A/F in the ballpark. I think this was discussed recently, but can't recall where.


http://i.imgur.com/y8nQPsvl.jpg
Sorry to thread hi-jack, but that photo could help me out a lot. I have the same COBB 3-port EBCS and am looking at where to install it, but worried about potential interference with things not yet installed: body and harness, etc... Has that location been OK for you? If so, I'll put mine in the same spot.

Thanks!

Lee

[C.Plavan]

Hi Chad, I'm no tuner, but IIRC correctly, if you've installed bigger injectors you should at least scale the duty cycle to get the A/F in the ballpark. I think this was discussed recently, but can't recall where.


Sorry to thread hi-jack, but that photo could help me out a lot. I have the same COBB 3-port EBCS and am looking at where to install it, but worried about potential interference with things not yet installed: body and harness, etc... Has that location been OK for you? If so, I'll put mine in the same spot.

Thanks!

Lee

I have not installed the bigger injectors just yet, I was seeing if I could start it up with the stock ones first to check for leaks. I should of clarified.

I want to install the bigger ones today, so if you know the answer let me know :)

Yes, the 3 port Cobb fits well there. I would not have changed a thing. (Keep in mind I have an iWire harness- the harness went to that area, so it was perfect.)

[JeromeS13]

If you're just going for idle, your current tune should be fine.

[C.Plavan]

If you're just going for idle, your current tune should be fine.

Thanks. Now let me pray to the Anti Leak God. I do not want to have to redo anything.

[metalmaker12]

I have not installed the bigger injectors just yet, I was seeing if I could start it up with the stock ones first to check for leaks. I should of clarified.

I want to install the bigger ones today, so if you know the answer let me know :)

Yes, the 3 port Cobb fits well there. I would not have changed a thing. (Keep in mind I have an iWire harness- the harness went to that area, so it was perfect.)

With bigger injectors your current tune will be lean, so I would map it, or just leave stock injectors for now.

[ssssly]

To start and idle the new turbo won't cause any issues. Also fine for tame driving out of boost.

You have to change at least the scaler for different injectors to get it to idle. And you don't want to drive ituntil you get the latency at idle right so you can dial it in under load.

[STiPWRD]

With bigger injectors your current tune will be lean, so I would map it, or just leave stock injectors for now.

Hypothetically, if the tune remains unchanged and all you do is swap out for bigger injectors that have a higher flow rate, wouldn't the engine run rich? You'd have to scale the injectors to lean them back out to normal. My understanding was that at idle, your up-pipe O2 sensor provides closed loop AFR info to your ECU to automatically adjust the short term fuel trim (similar to effectively scaling injectors size).

I also agree, if all you're doing is swapping turbos, the existing tune should be fine for idle and light driving.

[FlatironsTuning]

With bigger injectors your current tune will be lean, so I would map it, or just leave stock injectors for now.

Just to clarify, if you have a tune for stock injectors, and put in larger injectors, you will run very rich. If you have a tune for larger injectors, and run smaller injectors or stock injectors, then you would run lean.

If you are changing the turbo out, etc, and not replacing the injectors, you will be okay starting the engine and just idling it, you should be fine. I would not recommend driving the car though.

I would recommend contacting the tuner that you are using, and most times, they should be able to put together a break-in/limp map that will allow you to start your engine and drive the car lightly safely before you can get your full tune.

[metalmaker12]

With bigger injectors your current tune will be lean, so I would map it, or just leave stock injectors for now.

I meant rich, I was thinking if you had it mapped for larger and went smaller. Sorry about that, either way I would map it if your going to drive it at all. You can just idle it, but don't you wanna drive it. Anyhow I have a base map that is working for my break in and i will road tune it at some point soon. Than dyno it in the late winter early spring. My last log showed good vitals and I am happy with the way it's running.

[ssssly]

The up pipe O2 sensor doesn't trim AFRs. The downpipe O2 sensor does.

The up pipe O2 sensor is part of the emissions system. It tells the car when the catalyst is heated so the car can turn of startup fueling.

[FlatironsTuning]

The up pipe O2 sensor doesn't trim AFRs. The downpipe O2 sensor does.

The up pipe O2 sensor is part of the emissions system. It tells the car when the catalyst is heated so the car can turn of startup fueling.

Actually, no. The sensor in the up-pipe, if your car has one and not all do, is an EGT sensor. It helps the ECU go to normal running after cold start enrichment, etc. This can be over ridden fairly easily.

The front O2 sensor is in the header, and it does control fuel trims.

The rear O2 sensor, which is in the down-pipe, just monitors cat function, and can also be over ridden.

In short, the front O2 sensor in the header is the most important one.

[STiPWRD]

In short, the front O2 sensor in the header is the most important one.

Thanks, that's what I thought.