linear actuated parking brake?

[Lumpyguy]

I have been working on how to make a parking brake look nice! I was looking into a 12 linear actuator under the rear console and a switch and light on the dash to control it. anyone done this. this woul allow me to make a nice cover from the console up to the rear firewall panels. it would clean it up and finish it nice.

[michael everson]

Not sure if you know this, but other Subarus use an electric parking brake. Maybe you could adapt a system from a wrecked car. I plan to try it once I reach that point.
Mike

[EODTech87]

http://www.estopp.com/

That's what I'm more than likely going to go with unless someone else comes up with a cheaper or better system.

[Samiam1017]

what subarus use an electric? and what do if the battery dies and you need to push the car is it stuck on?

[kkcalm5]

Just saw the other day on the other forum under 33 HRs there is a thread on this. Look under, sorry don't know how to link it, Electric E-Brake Via Bruce Lee.
it is done with a linear actuator and parts for less then $100
Kevin

[lbperry]

Just saw the other day on the other forum under 33 HRs there is a thread on this. Look under, sorry don't know how to link it, Electric E-Brake Via Bruce Lee.
it is done with a linear actuator and parts for less then $100
Kevin

I can't find the thread that Kevin's referring to. Can someone post a link to it?
Thanks,

[kkcalm5]

It's on the ffcars.com web site go to forums and go to the section on 33 hot rods

[lbperry]

Got it. Thanks, Kevin.

[Aero STI]

Just FYI, the Subaru e brake handle only has enough range to pull 1.5" on the cables. I ordered a 2" linear actuator to do an electric e-brake.

[Lumpyguy]

I got a 2 inch 270lbs actuator and have it installed between the rear tunnel rails I just have to get the last adjuster made and the install will be done. I will post picks and comments on how it works.

[Lumpyguy]

Ok the system is done, Its cost me 90 bucks so far (actuator,steel and hardware) just need some wiring and a rocker switch for it. It runs great and has lots of adjustment for cable streach or shoe wear. here are a few pics of my set up.

364853648636487

[Lumpyguy]

Ok so now everything is installed and painted and it works great, smooth and quiet with lots of adjustment. I am not sure yet if I will adjust it tight and only use 1.5" of stroke and stop at a certian point or adjust it so when the motor hits the end of the 2" stoke and stops automaticly it fully applied. either way I think I will have a light I will probably try and use the wire in the harness for the light on the guage cluster

[Hobby Racer]

That is very nice. Do you mind telling me where you got the actuator from?

[Lumpyguy]

I am sure there are places like them in the states but I was from a place called Princess Auto, Its a 2" stroke and 270LBS push/pull. I think I am no where near that. It was 69 bucks plus 10 bucks in hardware and bits of steel. I have my own welder so it was just the 3-4 hrs of design and fab work. It runs 4.5amps max. so I am gonna find a 5 amp circuit that I am not usesing in the fuse box and run that circuit for power supply and then just a rocker switch to control in and out and mount it in the center console. This frees space up on the rear of the console to build it up for cup holders, folding arm rest and make a nicer transition up the rear fuel tank/ firewall covers.

[gwarden]

I installed my linear actuator last night and used micro switch's to limit the stroke also intend to use the same switch's for indicator lights to show when it has traveled the full stroke (about 1.25") am using a momentary DPDT switch so the lights will only light while holding the switch to operate the actuator
37993

[Harley818]

Lumpyguy,
I like your brake.
Princess Auto... hmmm might have to go look.
How long does it take to actuate?
Do youhold down the switch till you think its pulled far enough or do you have a spring in line to max out the tension when pulled the 2 inches.

[gwarden]

Lumpyguy,
I like your brake.

Do youhold down the switch till you think its pulled far enough or do you have a spring in line to max out the tension when pulled the 2 inches.

Harley I had the same concerns as you. that is why I added limit switch's at both ends to set the amount of travel, only about 1.25" see the post above yours

[RM1SepEx]

Since it spins a leadscrew to pull it only uses power when the switch is depressed and holds in place on its own correct?

[Lumpyguy]

I made mine with threaded adjusters on each cable, the plan is to adjust the brake so when it hits the end of its 2" stroke and stops the brake is just at full apply. If that wont work I will put on a limit switch as well. the actuator screws out and stays at position when the switch is released. I will just use a 2 way rocker switch.

[Harley818]

RM1SepEx,
I think you are right, but depending on the mechanical advantage of the thread, I don't want to pull out the cables if an overeager operator (me, wife, son, friend) runs it too long.
Also, sometimes it takes a couple revolutions for these screws to stop.....
It would be better with built in compliance... like a spring or something compliant.
I like it though and will be looking into it.
I don't like the big handbrake on the tunnel.

[michael everson]

I just installed the E-STOPP kit in my 818. It is by no means bolt in, but fit and works pretty well. Just had to make up a few brackets.
Mike

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02537_zps62igecgo.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02537_zps62igecgo.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02535_zpselsffgwh.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02535_zpselsffgwh.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02538_zpspbfvqaod.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02538_zpspbfvqaod.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02536_zpsqthd21i9.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02536_zpsqthd21i9.jpg.html)

[metros]

Looks good Mike. Looked up the e-stopp kit, pretty pricey compared to what I anticipated it costing.

[michael everson]

It is pricey. Sometimes its actually cheaper for me to purchase a pre-engineered part than to try and di it myself.
Mike

[Lumpyguy]

I just simply ran the actuator all the way out (2 inch of travel max) then I adjusted the adjusters I built into the system till the brake holds tight right where it needs to be. Then I run it all the way back to full in position. The cables are a bit loose but I know when I run it all the way out to its max travel it won't pull the cable thru. It does not have to be overly complicated. Fallow the KISS method.

[RM1SepEx]

It can be done cheaply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-function-Heavy-Duty-DC-12V-Electronic-Linear-Actuators-330-Pound-Max-Lift-/191299721987?tfrom=191489313220&tpos=top&ttype=price&talgo=undefined

less than $60 with the brackets to mount 330 lb capacity, not sure if I'll use it yet but it is an option

[kkcalm5]

I was looking at the e-stop or actuator type for a future 33 HR build (working on the build plan) and understand that these are parking brakes only.
but was thinking if you could hook it up to a rotating knob with reostat (not sure of spelling or tech term) to very the output to the actuator to control the pull to use as an emergency brake by rotating the knob to apply brakes in a controlled way.
just thinking out loud, that engineer in me
Kevin

[Samiam1017]

I probrabraly have $70 bucks into mine if somebody pms I can email them a video to post (I don't know how to do that)