MR2 Shifter

[DMC7492]

Hi Guys I am looking for the MR2 shifter information that was discussed here. I searched but "MR2" does not show up. how do i search for a short three letter search topic? I though it was in a thread named shifter mod, but that is also very vague...

[Samiam1017]

I'm installing a mr2 shifter and would like to see this too.

[Mechie3]

I think Matteo might have purchased one. I forget who else I think bought it. Its the older mr2 shifter not the mr2 spyder shifter. Assuming you're talking about the non FFR shifter that let's you flip the cables backwards.

[DMC7492]

Yes early 90's, the newer ones are plastic, and the throw is off the bottom of the pivot,for 1-2 motion, I saw the u tube video here on the forum. Cables exit rear wards.

[Scargo]

I have one and have posted about it, but I have no done anything with it yet.
Bob n Cincy has. (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15905-Chassis-111-2006-STi-with-Blouch-2-5XTR-First-Drive-Video&p=173564&viewfull=1#post173564)

[matteo92065]

I have installed an MR2 shifter and a K-Tuned, on two different 818's. They both operate the same. I have some pictures on my build thread. As previously mentioned, the cables are meant to exit to the rear. I think my cables ended up being 94 inches.

The MR2 shifter is all metal and is very compact. Even lower profile than the K-Tuned. The stroke on all the shifters is about the same ~ +/-.75"

I have not driven any of the shifters yet, so I can't give a review of that... YET!

good picture of MR2 shifter (not in 818):
35343

^^^^ I am wrong, the K-Tuned and MR2 are opposite each other when you move the gear shift lever "left and right". "Forward and back", they are the same. I put up a few pictures on my build.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I have got the MR2 shifter pictured above.
The cables come out the back, so you need much shorter cables.
The connection to the transmission is the same as FFR standard.
Bob

[Scargo]

And how are you guys dealing with reverse lockout? A small, separate cable on the side?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

And how are you guys dealing with reverse lockout? A small, separate cable on the side?
The reverse lockout function is part of the transmission in the mt5.
It prevents you from going from 5 to reverse.
35360
There is no button or pull handle on any 5mt Subaru to allow reverse.
Bob

EDIT: added 5mt to the last line

[Scargo]

I guess I am ignorant. It's been since 2002 that I drove a WRX five-speed. I have only known/owned STi's six-speed, where you lift a ring under the shift knob to access reverse. That lifting of the ring pulls on a cable which rotates a lockout lever on the side of the trannny. Is reverse gated in the five-speed, where you have to go to neutral before you can access reverse?

[Jaime]

Yes. Although technically you would always have to go through neutral to get to reverse. With the 5 speed, you have to move the lever back to the left enough to allow the gate to slide by the shift arm.

[STiPWRD]

I have got the MR2 shifter pictured above.
The cables come out the back, so you need much shorter cables.
The connection to the transmission is the same as FFR standard.
Bob
Bob, did you shorten the cables yourself? Or have someone shorten them? Just wondering what this would cost. Thanks

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, did you shorten the cables yourself? Or have someone shorten them? Just wondering what this would cost. Thanks
Right now I have a big loop using ffr cables. Each bend in the cable adds backlash. So the loop is causing about 1/8" of backlash. I plan to buy shorter or get it shortened. I don't know the pricing on modifying. a couple of years back there was marine place down in Tennessee that built the custom length for my boat steering.
Bob

[wleehendrick]

there was marine place down in Tennessee that built the custom length for my boat steering.

The K-tuned shifter kit I got from Wayne had a sticker on the cables for the supplier he uses. I don't have them handy now, but you could ask him; they're nice.

[matteo92065]

Our cables were custom made and delivered for ~$90 each.

[STiPWRD]

Our cables were custom made and delivered for ~$90 each.

Matteo, which shop did you use? I just (impulsively) bought one of these MR2 shifters on ebay so looks like I'll be giving it a shot.

Also, does anyone know which car the FFR provided shifter comes from?

[matteo92065]

They were from Custom Control Cables (https://www.cccables.com/) part number was 100-04222-0095 $81/each
They were 95 inches long which works for the shifting mechanism that we built.

FFR: 35378 Ours: 35379

[Bob_n_Cincy]

They were from Custom Control Cables (https://www.cccables.com/) part number was 100-04222-0095 $81/each
They were 95 inches long which works for the shifting mechanism that we built.

FFR: 35378 Ours: 35379
Great job Matte
Did you route the cable under or around the engine?
Bob

[STiPWRD]

They were from Custom Control Cables (https://www.cccables.com/) part number was 100-04222-0095 $81/each
They were 95 inches long which works for the shifting mechanism that we built.

FFR: 35378 Ours: 35379

Thanks! and man that shift mechanism looks great. Did you have any spares made? I'd love to take one off your hands :cool:

[wleehendrick]

man that shift mechanism looks great.

Gorgeous... nice job!

[matteo92065]

Great job Matte
Did you route the cable under or around the engine?
Bob
As it stands now... One car is routed under the engine, but that car has lots of custom work that allows the cables to go under the gas tank and has almost a straight shot to the shifter.
The other car is routed over the gas tank, and around the side of the engine.

Both cars are using the 95" lengths.
If you were going between the motor and intake manifold, a shorter cable would work better.

And thanks for the complements. We actually have a newer version of that shifter that is getting anodized. Once installed I post some updated pictures. The new version has the cables tucked closer to the transmission and is closer to the shift rod.

[Mechie3]

Matteo sent me CAD models for that shifter a while back. :D

[CU9DZ]

Hi Matteo I have chassis #224. Does anybody have pics of the MR2 shifter installed in an 818? Also what year/years MR2 does the shifter come from?
Dave

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Found a picture of my installed shifter.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35486&d=1411609452

[gwarden]

I have an MR2 shifter I bought but didn't use will sell for best offer

[EODTech87]

$1.99

[CU9DZ]

$10 for shifter if still available.
Dave

[Samiam1017]

anybody doing his figure out if its possible to shorten the FFR cables????

[DMC7492]

Hi guys first off a big thanks to our frontiers in building this project, Bob n Cincy , Matteo and Rm1sepx for their work on the MR2 shifter. Here is my version of the MR 2.
Custom plate for shifter mount and teleflex cables 7'.
Custom transmission mount and Teflon rod ends from McMaster Carr.
40378 40384

Here is a vid of the linkages.https://youtu.be/64X3552Jl4M


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[Hindsight]

Woah, that's the cleanest looking setup I've seen so far.

How did you cut those aluminum pieces??
Did you drill another hole in the transmission shift selector output shaft to secure your shift arm to it?

Interesting take on the bell-crank.... having it vertical with a custom horizontal shift arm. Very cool!

[Scargo]

All I'm seeing is two different pictures, BUT IT'S GORGEOUS! Really nice work.

[RM1SepEx]

now I'm jealous! ;)

[flynntuna]

That's a work of art!

[Mechie3]

Very nice. I've been designing my own shifter in solidworks but at this point I think I'll just buy the MR2 setup and do what you've done. It looks great.

[STiPWRD]

I'm also using Matteo's design with a few tweaks. A local machine shop made the parts for me. I'll be using the MR2 shifter and 7' teleflex cables as well.
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I debated on making the aluminum parts myself with a little creative angle grinding and cutting but in the end decided to go with a machine shop for a cleaner end result.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi guys first off a big thanks to our frontiers in building this project, Bob n Cincy , Matteo and Rm1sepx for their work on the MR2 shifter. Here is my version of the MR 2.
Custom plate for shifter mount and teleflex cables 7'.
Custom transmission mount and Teflon rod ends from McMaster Carr.
40378 403854038440377
Here is a vid of the linkages.https://youtu.be/64X3552Jl4M

Great job Don,
You do cleaner (professional) work than I.
40392

Bob

[DMC7492]

Hindsight, the aluminum pieces wer cut on a vertical band saw and then cleaned up on a vertical belt sander,finer and finer down to green scotch brite pads with warm soapy water. The shift shaft was drilled to a 1/4" hole for a roll pin and the shaft stub cut off. The shaft material was not hard at all, drilled very easily.
40413

[Mechie3]

See, almost anyone that knows how to run a CNC can put parts in and get nice stuff out. Now, making stuff with a bandsaw and sanders and fooling people into looking like it was made with a CNC? That's skill. :)

[Hindsight]

Now, making stuff with a bandsaw and sanders and fooling people into looking like it was made with a CNC? That's skill. :)

Uh, yeah. I would have bet money those were laser/water/CNC machined. Hats off to you DMC for some serious craftsmanship!

[Mitch Wright]

Very Nice DMC, you planning to make some extra pieces to sell?

[RM1SepEx]

Mitch, hand craftmanship takes time... $$$ would be too much. You want to make multiples, go to CNC

[Scargo]

Don, You had a pic of the shifter that's now gone. I'd like to see the details of how you attached the cables (seeing as how I have a MR2 shifter also). Thanks

[DMC7492]

Okay I re did the original post to include the shifter picture.
For some reason the pictures don't show and some do... whats up with that??

[Hindsight]

I have trouble with the image uploading here too. Easiest thing to do is set yourself up an imgur.com account. You can then just drag and drop pictures from your desktop into your web browser and it uploads them to imgr. For each picture, you can then copy a little BBC code link and paste it into your message here and when you submit your message, the pic will show up inline. Works 100% of the time and won't sometimes show as an attachment.

I feel compelled to again say how impressed I am with your shifter/bracket setup, especially given the fact that you did them by hand. Seriously impressive work sir.

[Mitch Wright]

Dan, amazing hand work, I went back and read through your post I would have never guessed you did all that on a band saw, impressive. But you have given me and I am sure others some great idea's, thanks.

[Mechie3]

Got mine in the mail yesterday. The top plate is a bit rusty and it was full of dog hair, but the important bits were there.

[Mitch Wright]

Just ordered my shifter cables from Custom Control cable, they custom make them the length you want both cables are $167.00
I am using the MR2 shifter mounting plate and FFR hardware on the trans (Modified) so the cables ends and travel are the same as the FFR supplied cables but much shorter.
https://www.cccables.com

[Mitch Wright]

MR2 shifter install complete, it feels great has a nice short crisp throw.
420144201542016

[Hindsight]

Looks great! That shifter handle seems kind of high.... higher than the one that came on my Mr2 shifter anyway. Is that stock? I ask because mine is so short that I think it's going to hit the side bolster of my seat.

Looks like an Eastwood TIG 200 you have there....

[Mitch Wright]

Eastwood 200 which is nice small and easy to move around and works great for my home shop, also have a Lincoln 175 Mig machine
When I moved I made the mistake of selling my Sycrowave 250 machine a couple of moves ago.
The shifter is completely stock as far as I know, bought on Ebay for $20.00. I would guess the shift lever is 10-12", I will measure it next time am down at the shop. My seat is on the deck so might be that I am sitting lower in the car but I am not even close to any interference.

[Hindsight]

I have the same TIG welder. I wanted a Miller but couldn't justify the cost for home/hobby use. So far the Eastwood has performed great for me though I'm so new to welding that I couldn't really compare.

My shifter handle is only 6 or 7 inches in length max. Maybe they are different between the years or someone put a short shift kit on it at some point. Guess I could cut it into two pieces and weld on an extension.

[longislandwrx]

See, almost anyone that knows how to run a CNC can put parts in and get nice stuff out. Now, making stuff with a bandsaw and sanders and fooling people into looking like it was made with a CNC? That's skill. :)

yeah man holy ****. gorgeous.

[Mitch Wright]

The throw is really short (at least with what I have) so I don't think you would be hurt by adding some length. I have a meeting this afternoon downtown and will stop by the shop and measure the lever, now I am curious.

[STiPWRD]

Looks great! That shifter handle seems kind of high.... higher than the one that came on my Mr2 shifter anyway. Is that stock? I ask because mine is so short that I think it's going to hit the side bolster of my seat.
That length looks about the same as the one I have (also stock). I'm planning on welding tabs to the bottom of the MR2 plate to locate the shifter assembly 1" below the tunnel rails.

[Hindsight]

Here is the shifter I got off eBay. Think it's got an aftermarket short shift kit on it or something? Even if I mount this to the top of the tunnel, it's going to be too low.
http://i.imgur.com/P7sYzq3h.jpg (http://imgur.com/P7sYzq3)

[Mitch Wright]

Mine is 6.5" to the top of the threads on the lever. I will post a better picture when I get to my computer

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here is the shifter I got off eBay. Think it's got an aftermarket short shift kit on it or something? Even if I mount this to the top of the tunnel, it's going to be too low.
http://i.imgur.com/P7sYzq3h.jpg (http://imgur.com/P7sYzq3)

Hindsight
I have the MR2 shifter dropped into the tunnel about 1.5". My cables will be in the tunnel with a flat plate on top the tunnel. Michael and I think its great. Our butts are only an inch of foam (uncompressed) off the floor.
There are different heights for the shifter as I have 2 that are different.
42026

Bob

[Mitch Wright]

I have mine on top of the rails just to get it closer to the steering wheel, its a good fit for me.
42029

[Hindsight]

Looks like you can get an extension on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-SHIFTER-KNOB-EXTENDER-EXTENSION-TOYOTA-SCION-SUBARU-M12X1-25-TC-/281184495750?hash=item4177e6e886&vxp=mtr

[RM1SepEx]

I bought the extension, to be able to thread onto the existing shaft it is too large a diameter for the stock shift knob to fit... Won't allow the aftermarket knob I have to fit either, it extends down over the shaft so if you buy the extension remember that when you choose your knob

[Hindsight]

Hey Dan, would it be possible to grind down the shaft a little bit for knob clearance?

[CU9DZ]

So what are you guys using to attach the FFR cables or other cables to the MR2 shifter? The ends of the FFR shifter cables are close to M6 1.0 but the thread pitch is slightly different. I'm trying to fit my shifter now.
Davis

[matteo92065]

The cables are 1/4-28 thread. I used these: 60685K321 From McMaster-Carr

[RM1SepEx]

Hey Dan, would it be possible to grind down the shaft a little bit for knob clearance?
Sure easy mod with a lathe

[CU9DZ]

Thanks Matteo. Some metric and fractional parts are very close. I found the end pieces on McMaster-Carr and will order them. I have serial nbr 224.
Davis

[Hindsight]

Dan, I got the shifter extension from eBay and the one I receive actually won't need to be turned down at all.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281184495750

I received it the other day and the OE Toyota shift knob fits on over it with room to spare. It seems a lot of people are selling shifter extensions on eBay so I'm sure the diameters and lengths vary quite a bit. This one is steel, so a bit heavy, but very strong. Most of them are aluminum.

[RM1SepEx]

I have a Subaru knob, that's why it doesn't fit the extension. I have an aluminum knob somehwere that I bought for my daughter but didn't use. I'll see if I can find it and I'll powder coat to match the orange interior accents on the steering wheel center and the door pulls.

[STiPWRD]

Here are some pics of my MR2 setup (sorry for the crappy quality). I used 1" spacers so everything fits under the tunnel. I basically welded on some steel bars I had lying around to extend the mounting holes and extended the back cable mounts to give the rod ends a longer distance to flex (less severe angle). After I took these photos I also welded on a rib between the cable tabs to stiffen up that area. I also used a 0.040" aluminum shim per Dan's suggestion between the ball joint cup and the shifter plate.
429674296842969

Can you tell my cables are too long? I'll be getting some custom ones made soon. I now see the shifter slop everyone is talking about - glad that's taken care of.
42970

[Hindsight]

Very nice! Let us know how it feels with the custom cables.

[Scargo]

Seems no one has addressed:
Can you modify your FFR cables? Are they worth modifying and using? I see that better grades are offered...
Can you shorten them yourself? Obviously, you will need a few items or, if you have a lathe, you could make some or all of the pieces required. Do the cable companies sell a new uncrimped end, for example? I like the idea of getting my cables "exactly" the right length and nothing more. I've done motorcycle cables before. It's not an impossible undertaking. If the parts are offered I might have better things to do.
I have an MR2 shifter. I will do a custom bell-crank linkage or buy the mechanism if it's offered by someone here.
Since I'm running a close-ratio six-speed I am not sure if a bracket/mechanism are being offered. Any advice?

[Mitch Wright]

Custom Control Cables will make they cables the length you want. Total for both my cables with shipping were under $185.00 delivered in 3 days.
Can't offer any assistance on cutting the cables or the Sti trans.
My MR2 Shifter and cable set up has exceeded my expectations, very please with the feel.
429804298142983

[RM1SepEx]

Here is a repost of my setup to get them in one thread for folks. I used as much of the original FFR pieces as I could at the transaxle

42991 42992 42993

42994 42995 42996

[Mechie3]

For the bell crank, if I offer my set, you could use about 75% of the parts for a 6 speed. You'd need a different plate to mount the cable brackets and the crank.

[Mechie3]

Here's my MR2 shifter. I posted before in my build thread.

http://i.imgur.com/2B5dnjS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QHejaLa.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6ABRBNB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/siXaRYs.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0ihSyj4.jpg

[longislandwrx]

looks like a winner... under $600?

[Mechie3]

No clue. lol. I need to tweak some parts for the rear bell crank before I send them out for quote. I was recommended a shop (in VA?) that had good pricing. We'll see what happens.

[FFR-ADV]

Wow... Very nice work!!

[FFR-ADV]

I just noticed the Audi keys in your hand in the picture.

Does your MR2 shifter in the 818 application feel crisp and buttery smooth like the Audi?

[Mechie3]

Well...I haven't finished setting up the Mr2 shifter yet and the Audi has a paddle shifted DSG so......no?

:D

[Mitch Wright]

Mine feels crisp like a Miata with a nice mechanical feel as the detents lock in.

[wleehendrick]

My 818 shifter (k-tuned, not MR2, but direct run cables) feels more like my Z (stiff, notchy, but precise like a bolt action rifle) than my Audi (buttery smooth and accurate, but not 'crisp', a little disconnected).

[Harley818]

Where are you guys getting the nice red anodized rod ends?

[Mechie3]

McMaster has them.

[STiPWRD]

I got mine from McMaster for $15 but realized after they're available on Ebay (China) for $5. Oh well, at least the red ones look great and are probably better quality.

Btw, I completed this MR2 mod with custom control cables (82" length) and the shift feel is night and day better than with the stock cables. I'd highly suggest this mod to anyone thinking about it.
4396043961

[Mechie3]

I just searched ebay and I'm confused as to what this particular seller is actually offering:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QA1-Rod-End-AML4-Aluminum-1-4-Left-Hand-Thread-w-1-4-Bore-Red-Annodized-/181169693143?hash=item2a2e8e21d7&vxp=mtr

Likely doesn't matter for this application, but it says they have a nylon/PTFE race (it's usually one or the other, not both) and then it says "metal to metal contact for greater strength" which means there is no liner (ie, no nylon/teflon). lol

McMaster tends to take their prices and jack them up by 50-100% of getting them elsewhere but you can get them within a day or two and don't need to buy more than 1 (like some other US distibutors).

[Mechie3]

double post

[Harley818]

STipWRD,
With the shifter dropped into the tunnel, do you have enough side to side shift without hitting the side of the tunnel.
I dropped mine about 1 inch and I had interference with the side tunnel rails...... but I didn't have the shifter hooked up so I don't know how much lateral I need. Maybe we don't need the whole MR2 side movement?

[STiPWRD]

STipWRD,
With the shifter dropped into the tunnel, do you have enough side to side shift without hitting the side of the tunnel.
I dropped mine about 1 inch and I had interference with the side tunnel rails...... but I didn't have the shifter hooked up so I don't know how much lateral I need. Maybe we don't need the whole MR2 side movement?
Yes, the shift rod/knob has loads of free space. However, I centered the shifter in the tunnel so I only have 1mm of clearance between the side-to-side bell crank and the frame. This obviously doesn't leave any room for a bolt head or nut on the left side of the clevis attachment point so you have to get clever with the way you attach the shift cable to the side-to-side bell crank. The right side also doesn't have much clearance (about 3/8") when you're in first or second gear.

I suggest drilling and tapping a 1/4-20 hole along the 10mm OD rod that is riveted into the top of the MR2 side-side bell crank (where shift cable attaches). This allows you to slip a 10mm ID ball joint end onto that rod and secure it with a washer/bolt while clearing the shifter in first/second. I drilled a .25 thru hole along the axis of that rod and didn't leave myself room for threads so I pushed in a 0.25 spring pin with cross-drilled .050 hole and R-clip to retain the ball joint end. I'll try to take a pic sometime.

Edit: here are some pics before I installed the spring pin to retain the bigger rod end.
4398043981

[craigfree]

Can anyone give me a reference for what they were paying for the MR2 shifter? I'm seeing:
no name eBay shifters for 25
used 91 for 45
93 and up at 85
trd is 100

Really wondering if the eBay Chinese quality is usable. I can't get over the used price of these, seems extremely high.

Anyone use the Chinese eBay ones like:
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=221689623859&alt=web

And this image was sent to me and I think it's great at highlighting the shifter differences

[craigfree]

Anyone try out the 25 dollar eBay shifters? I was trying to pick up a used shifter and was a more than shocked at a shifter price. There's also differences on years, but I don't think that matters.

Prices I'm seeing
91-92 assembly $45 shipped
93+ $85 shipped
Trd $100 shipped

Photo showing Differences in shifters.

[Mechie3]

Skip the TRD, it's not needed. I think both RM1SepX and Bobncincy have one of the ebay aftermarket levers. Not sure what makes the 93 any different. I think prices are getting jacked up because people suddenly started to scoop them up. They used to sit at $19 all day for months.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I just used parts off my $25 mr2 ebay shifter. It is working great.
I cannot tell any difference in the shifter play and throw compared to our Subaru Impreza.
I think I used the #1 shaft in the picture above.
Bob
47626 47627 47628 47629

[craigfree]

Alright, thanks I'll order the eBay shifter. If I have issues, I'll report back.

[Scargo]

Haven't used it yet but I got mine for $46 shipped. MR2 turbo shifter shift box assembly lever TRD OEM 93-95 SW20 USDM JDM 1 ( 281260065597 )
It is in excellent condition.

Added EDIT: If you get the $25 Chinese piece don't you still need the rest of the mount? Got to have something for it to ride in!

[craigfree]

Thanks Scargo, guess I'm back to trying and finding one cheaper. Thanks so much everyone.

[Harley818]

I think mine was $39 for a used MR2 shifter. a bargain. its the new cables that are expensive at about $170
I don't have it all together yet...but getting close.

[Hindsight]

What size cable ends are you guys running? 4-series with the 1/4" (or M6) ends?

[STiPWRD]

I used the 4-series with 1/4-28 threaded ends (100-04222-0082). The FFR provided cables are also 1/4-28.

[Hindsight]

Cool thank you.

[Mitch Wright]

Same here, series 4 and 1/4-28 rod ends.

[Hindsight]

One more Q: Where are you guys finding Threaded standoffs with a 1/4-28 thread size (to connect two male rod ends)? McMaster only has 1/4-20... I found a hexadecimal tube on ebay that would work but it was $45 including shipping. I may try to just cut my own threads in a spacer tube instead.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

One more Q: Where are you guys finding Threaded standoffs with a 1/4-28 thread size (to connect two male rod ends)? McMaster only has 1/4-20... I found a hexadecimal tube on ebay that would work but it was $45 including shipping. I may try to just cut my own threads in a spacer tube instead.

These are the ones I used.
Bob

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90268a325/=10j2f4g

[Hindsight]

Thanks Bob, I may need something longer but I will wait and see how everything lines up.

[STiPWRD]

For some reason McMaster didn't have a large selection of 1/4-28 hex standoffs so I bought some 10-32 standoffs and re-drilled and taped them for 1/4-28. There is much more selection of lengths. The existing threaded holes helped guide my hand drill since I don't have a drill press.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91780a082/=10j8vx9

[Mitch Wright]

I bought a 1 ft lenght of aluminum tubing from McMaster Carr cut to the length I needed and taped it to 1/4-28.

[Hindsight]

Thanks guys.

[Mechie3]

Even better: Buy a 1/4-28 left hand tap. Make one side RH, one side LH. Lets you make quick and easy adjustments.

[Hindsight]

I bought one right and one left-hand threaded rod end for that. But that too is a good idea Mechie.

Making the linkage is tricky.... you have to ensure the ratios on the bell-crank are right, and then have to ensure the clamp or bulkhead location isn't obstructed by any of the transmission components protruding into the area you need to put the clamp. Mechie, I really liked and benefit from your idea to use the threaded tubes to space the mounts further back. I probably won't make mine as long as yours, but even 1-2" buys you enough room to clear any protrusions you need to work around. A lot of good engineering brains in this here thread!

[RM1SepEx]

I bought female rod ends and used 1/4 - 28 threaded rod

[flynntuna]

Has anyone put a short sifter kit to their shifter?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mr2+short+shifter

[Mitch Wright]

My stock MR2 shifter has a really short throw, personally I wouldn't want it shorter.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I tried one on the short shifter post like in your picture. But ended up with the taller 8" MR2 post.
I like the feel of the taller one better.

49839

[RM1SepEx]

I used the stock one and had to raise it 2 + inches over the existing tunnel to get the height to match the Miatas. You can adjust length of throw with the bell crank on the other end

[redfogo]

The 93+ is about as short as you would want to go if you have the position for it. I feel for most 818 builders a 85-92 shifter is your best bet. I have tried just about every shifter in my MR2 or other friends who have an MR2s. 93 felt the best out of all of them, and what I used in my car. Most MR2 owners feel the 93 is the "perfect shifter". I highly recommend "93" if you plan to have the shifter up higher, other wise "85-92" will work great. B&M and the drop plates are junk, I hated shifting with them a lot.

[Hindsight]

I used one from the early 90's and welded a steel plate to it with a bunch of holes to allow for adjustment. Even so, I'm probably going to have an extension on the top of it to extend the shift knob up higher to get it where I want it. I'm about 3/4 done with my Mr2 shifter setup; will post pics when done. Some in-progress pics in my build thread now though.

[Innkeepr]

Cant find any at the local yards, checked ebay - only found the plastic newer ones. Is there some secret hiding place for these ?

[Hindsight]

Hit or miss on ebay. Sometimes there are a few, sometimes none. Check some MR2 forums and car-part.com.

[Hindsight]

Here is my setup.

For the shifter assembly:
- Replaced all the bushings with new OEM. The bottom ball cup bushing is very expensive!
- Made a new top plate of 1/8" aluminum
- Cut the bell crank arm off the shifter assembly and welded a longer piece of steel on that I drilled more holes in for adjustability and shorter throw on the left to right movement
- Welded a piece of steel to the shift arm and drilled holes in it for adjustability and shorter throw on the front to back movement
- Welded 3/16" angle aluminum to the base, tipped back at an angle to mount the cables
- Used 1/4-28 bronze bushing rod ends from McMaster
- I added a shift lever extension I bought on eBay for about $12 to get the shift knob up to where I wanted it

For the rear:
- Made brackets out of a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum (eBay or McMaster). Used wood to make a mockup first (I think DMC gave me this tip). I spaced the bracket out from the transmission at the mounting point using some 3/4" long aluminum standoffs that have the right ID for an M8 bolt.
- I bolted the two piece bracket together
- Bell crank is made of the same aluminum as the bracket
- I cut the aluminum with a hand-held jigsaw and a table saw
- Used oilite bronze washers at the bell crank
- Drilled and tapped the components where needed
- I cut the collar off the OEM shift linkage piece (the part that slides onto the transmission shifting shaft and has the spring pin going through it), then welded it to a piece of steel bar. I figured this would make a more secure mounting of the linkage arm and can re-use the OEM spring pin and won't have to drill any additional holes in the transmission shifter shaft.
- Couldn't find a threaded tube in 1/4-28 so I found an aluminum tube from McMaster with the right ID for 1/4-28 thread, then tapped it myself. This is for the couplers on the rod ends in the back

I used the OEM FFR cables to test the setup, and will now need to measure and order new custom-length cables. I plan on adding some head sleeving around the cables where they go over the engine. Also getting a nicer shift knob. There appears to be plenty of room behind the shifter for the donor e-brake handle. I will need to make my own shift boot and e-brake boot.

Rear bracket:
http://i.imgur.com/3W0pNKZ.jpg (http://imgur.com/3W0pNKZ)

http://i.imgur.com/R6VxZ6p.jpg (http://imgur.com/R6VxZ6p)

Here is an earlier shot showing the standoffs used to space the bracket out from the transmission:
http://i.imgur.com/fj0OukSh.jpg (http://imgur.com/fj0OukS)
Front shifter assembly showing the modified shift arm and bell crank:
http://i.imgur.com/IDstOQnh.jpg (http://imgur.com/IDstOQn)

Complete shifter assembly in car (just before mounting with 1/4" rivnuts):
http://i.imgur.com/M2lRNgth.jpg (http://imgur.com/M2lRNgt)


Linkage in motion:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPtv6YuC0lw


After trimming down the rear bracket pieces to remove excess metal, radius the hard edges, and sand/scuff them out a bit:
http://i.imgur.com/chQwVIxh.jpg (http://imgur.com/chQwVIx)

[RetroRacing]

What cable length did you use?

[Hindsight]

Still using the stock FFR cables as I fabricated the setup. Now that I'm done, I need to drill a hole in the firewall and measure for a set of custom cables. They will be different lengths. That's the next item on my todo list but I'm expecting them to be somewhere around 7' in length.

[Mechie3]

I used 7'. I go back, around the heads, and into the bell crank. I tried 6' but they were too short. 6.5' would probably work well but I got off the shelf zero backlash cables (which aren't really 100% zero backlash).

[RetroRacing]

cool, thanks. Need to get some on the way soon, just need to start fabing the shifter stuff at the back, just like yours, but ours is pull into first-second gate (RSX race shifter)

[RM1SepEx]

I used 7' to go under the ebrake, over the FFR fuel tank, through a rubber grommet on my rear firewall, over the engine block but under the manifold to the trans shaft and bell crank... Mine bow up a couple inches from perfect length. I used the clamp type cables, much easier to do the mounts, only need two tapped holes into the plate, both ends http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43307.html

[Hindsight]

Where is everyone getting their custom-length cables from? I was going to use "Custom Control Cables" but for what I wanted, the cost came out to $280 for the pair which is about $100 more than I expected.

Edit - N/M ended up talking with customcables.com in California and picking up a set from them for closer to what I was expecting: $178.

[Mechie3]

Seastar solutions. I can look up part numbers later.

[RSdriver]

Any body willing to share their dimensions or CAD dwg?

[JAubin]

Meant to X-Post this from my Build Thread:

I'm running the MR2 with a linkage that was designed for 914s running Subaru motors/trans. Hacked up the shifter so it sits angled, front supported by repurposed rear sway brackets, so it sits higher and the console fits over it, but the cables exit below the top surface of the tunnel.
44593 44595

I used the Midwest Control Cables customer option, and it was $80 for (2) 7' cables with bulkhead connectors on both ends. The swaged/crimped connections leave a bit to be desired, and there is a bit more stiction than in the FFR supplied cables, but with the nearly straight run (under intake manifold) and short length the feel is still far better than the stock setup. Photo shows the difference between the swaged connection on the FFR (TOP) and the crimped of the Midwest (BOTTOM)

4962450093

[Mitch Wright]

I used Custom Control cables $180 delivered5009450095

[Mechie3]

Bump from the dead. Got two emails about my MR2 implementation. I heavily modified my shifter though, so it's not quite apples to apples.

I'm using these cables:
http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43008.html

The 7' were about 1" too short, but they worked well for Bill (his shifter is in a slightly different spot). The 7' cables were purchased elsewhere (forget where) and had a 5 week lead time.

Bulkhead mount on the rear, clamp mount on the front. I believe they can be used with these strap clamps from McMaster, P/N 3125K12

[craigfree]

I also used 7' cables routed directly over the top of the engine. I didn't like how the 8' had the bend around the ez30. With the six's intake and exhaust it made more sense to go over then around. P.S. I still have the 8' for sale...

[Mechie3]

I have a spare broken 8' cable. I just shipped it to a customer along with some parts. The cable works, just has a very notchy spot. He's going to use it for a test fit. Once he is done, it's up for grabs. I didn't charge him for it, just asked that he pass it on to the next person. Use it to test fit, measure for cables length so you can determine if 7' or 8' works best without buying both.

http://i.imgur.com/wZQu4yQ.jpg

[JB91710]

Does anybody know where this shifter comes from?

Thanks,

Jack

59173

[Mechie3]

It's another version of the K tuned shifter. Maybe the one that FFR sells.

[DSR-3]

Does anybody know where this shifter comes from?59173
Factory Five

[JB91710]

Thanks, I did find it at FF.

[Harley818]

I bought my cables from Control Cables. Bulkhead mount connection. 90 inches was perfect for me. I routed through the firewall right above the suspension attachment point behind the gas tank. $75 ea. Part no. 173LTT-2-90RS HP Inner.

[Sgt.Gator]

Thread from the dead revival....the MR2 shifters have jumped on eBay. Including shipping, they are at least $75 and some are $150!

[flynntuna]

whoa, glad I got mine from the local pick your part for $15. for $150 I'd spend the extra and either buy the FFR one and do the "Hobby Racer" mod to have the cables go to the rear or the K-Tuned shifter.

[bow2091]

i have one i will sell you 50.00 plus shipping
whoa, glad I got mine from the local pick your part for $15. for $150 I'd spend the extra and either buy the FFR one and do the "Hobby Racer" mod to have the cables go to the rear or the K-Tuned shifter.

[Sgt.Gator]

Thanks. I made an offer on eBay for one at a significantly lower price with free shipping and it was accepted. I'm sure other sellers would take offers too, these things can't be in that big of a demand other than 818 builders.