Exhaust hanger for turbo cars

[Quiny]

Does anyone know how the FFR supplied exhaust hangers are supposed to be used? I don't see anyway to support the stock system with them. Nothing in the manual as well.

[Pearldrummer7]

I plan to do a side exit exhaust, like the blue R that FFR made. Not good for cats or muffled set ups, but it won't need hangars as far as I understand.

[Goldwing]

I think some level of creativity might be needed to get brackets where they need to be. I did a side exit exhaust and bolted it up yesterday. Thanks to CustomeE for the welding help! I used the provided exhaust clamp and hanger along the transmission case to support the downpipe and upturn section, then a crane-like setup for the tail of the muffler using the unused seat bracket bolted on the tail of the transmission. The exact recipe was a cobb downpipe shortened a lot, then an exhaust donut to turn it back up and over into a c6 corvette muffler with one tip extended. The sound is similar to stock wrx. The pics show the brackets I rigged up.
34256342573425834260

[Quiny]

This is what I came up with, 7 bucks at Lowes for a piece of 1/8" x 1-1/4" x 3' steel flat stock. A few bends, a few holes, a little paint and here it is. Not the most elegant solution but I have no idea how FFR expected us to use the hanger they sent with the kit.
345233452434525

[Buzz Skyline]

I like it. Simple and, I'm guessing, effective. I think I'll do something like it.

Thanks for posting the pics.

[freds]

Another very simple solution.
34557

[Buzz Skyline]

Freds, that looks nice, but does it offer much vertical rigidity? Quiny's solution is a bit more complex, but it looks rigid vertically and horizontally. which seems crucial for keeping the stress on the turbo down.

[freds]

Freds, that looks nice, but does it offer much vertical rigidity? Quiny's solution is a bit more complex, but it looks rigid vertically and horizontally. which seems crucial for keeping the stress on the turbo down.

I believe it does as it is not actually carrying any static load and its function is to handle the inertial bounce movement from the vertical acel/decel whipping (due to the fact that the exhaust assembly is a cantilever) that would occur when hitting bumps. The down pipe and tail pipe do not have much mass and are quite rigid & rigidly mounted to the rigidly mounted turbo, so I "anticipate" (hope!!!) there is very little load to be handled. If I do notice it "bouncing" I will weld on a simple gusset.

It was a quick "of the moment" solution with a piece of 3/16 flat bar I had lying around...put a torch on it to bend it (it is stout)...drilled a few holes...and moved on...so I'm not married to it, and ...we'll see.


fred

[RM1SepEx]

Freds, just add a piece of tubing or flat stock in a diagonal and be done with it, looks like a good, simple solution

[Buzz Skyline]

The next thing on my agenda is to hang the exhaust. I plan to copy your design, so I picked up the steel stock at lunch.

I was wondering, though, how did you bend it? Did you do it cold, or did you heat it up at all?

Thanks,

Buzz


This is what I came up with, 7 bucks at Lowes for a piece of 1/8" x 1-1/4" x 3' steel flat stock. A few bends, a few holes, a little paint and here it is. Not the most elegant solution but I have no idea how FFR expected us to use the hanger they sent with the kit.
345233452434525

[Quiny]

It's only 1/8" so it will bend easy, the trick is to clamp it in a vise exactly were you want the bend then use a small ball peen hammer and hit it right where it meets the vise jaws. If you just grab it from the long end and pull you will end up with a big radius of a bend. I could have heated with oxy/acet but I didn't need to. I did heat the FFR hanger rod to get it to bend. I used an angle finder to figure out the bends to get them right in the vise.

[Quiny]

almost forgot, drill the holes for the trany mount end before you bend. I made the inner piece first(L shape) tried it and wanted more support so then I made the gusset (less angled piece).

[maczter]

Hey guys, builder from another group, but saw this as I am researching my own custom hangers for my 33 as I am not using the FF supplied exhaust. These seem to be very effective mounts, and remember that you need to have some give in the exhaust to account for engine torque and movement. I couldn't tell from the pics if you have any sort of flex pipe in the mix to help. If not, a rigid mount like this could cause cracking anywhere in the system, especially on cast parts like manifolds.

[wleehendrick]

and remember that you need to have some give in the exhaust to account for engine torque and movement. I couldn't tell from the pics if you have any sort of flex pipe in the mix to help. If not, a rigid mount like this could cause cracking anywhere in the system, especially on cast parts like manifolds.

In the pictures above, the exhaust support bracket is attached to the transaxle (not the frame or body). This is obviously rigidly mounted to the motor, so no flex joint should be required, as it all (motor/trans/exhaust) moves together. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's my plan as well.

[Buzz Skyline]

That's why I like these designs - the exhaust moves with the motor (and tranny). The problem then will be making sure it doesn't hit the body panels when the engine rocks. I haven't looked that far ahead, so I don't know how I'm going to deal with it yet.

[wleehendrick]

That's why I like these designs - the exhaust moves with the motor (and tranny). The problem then will be making sure it doesn't hit the body panels when the engine rocks. I haven't looked that far ahead, so I don't know how I'm going to deal with it yet.

I ditched the FFR exhaust and have a bellmouth to 3" elbow, short muffler and tailpipe that will parallel the tranny, so it should be easy to bolt up with a simple bracket. My tailpipe will come out the rear mesh, so I'll just have to make sure to cut a large enough hole. I have Group N motor/trans mounts, so hopefully it won't rock too much. If so, I'll rather rig up a pitch-stop than have an oversized gap for exhaust clearance.

[Quiny]

I ditched the FFR exhaust and have a bellmouth to 3" elbow, short muffler and tailpipe that will parallel the tranny, so it should be easy to bolt up with a simple bracket. My tailpipe will come out the rear mesh, so I'll just have to make sure to cut a large enough hole. I have Group N motor/trans mounts, so hopefully it won't rock too much. If so, I'll rather rig up a pitch-stop than have an oversized gap for exhaust clearance.

I'm thinking the same thing but I don't want to spend any more money until I know everything works as expected. I am also concerned about having the exhaust really close to the transaxle and speedo sensor. It may cause other issues down the road with all that heat right next to the transmission.

[wleehendrick]

I'm thinking the same thing but I don't want to spend any more money until I know everything works as expected. I am also concerned about having the exhaust really close to the transaxle and speedo sensor. It may cause other issues down the road with all that heat right next to the transmission.

The cat in the WRX is just as close to the tranny, although it has a heat shield. Quite a few builders have done this type of exhaust and haven't reported any problems so far. It's pretty cheap; the bellmouth is the most expensive part if you don't put a cat in. Jerome's been tracking his car a lot and he has this set-up (although with no cat or muffler and everything lava wrapped). I'll probably wrap my pipes, but not sure how to heat shield the muffler (it's a FlowMaster Super10); maybe ceramic coat the whole thing. Dealing with thermal issues on the exhaust will be easy (compared to getting a A2AIC working efficiently)!

[AZPete]

Thanks, Quiny. I'll stop at Lowe's on the way home.

(Without this forum I'd be up the famous creek.)

[Goldwing]

The discussion about movement did bring to mind that it would be good to allow room for heat expansion of the exhaust. I think all setups here were good there with the FFR clamp/bracket or long brackets reaching from the tranny. Kind of a final check kind of thing when you build your setup. To be clear, talking about heat expansion here, not engine movement relative to the frame.

[Buzz Skyline]

Hey, Quiny. I copied your design for an exhaust hanger today. I still need to degrease and paint it before it rusts, but it feels very stiff and secure. Thanks for posting your solution.

3474534746

[Quiny]

Nice work, looks exactly like mine. I almost wonder why FFR didn't include something like this in the kit, cheap and easy. Bet the could make them up for almost nothing.

[AZPete]

I am a proud new member of the Quiny Hanger Club!

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/exhausthanger1.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/exhausthanger1.jpg.html)

Quiny, the royalty payment will be in the mail . . . ah, well not today . . . soon.

Future Club members: a M8 - 1.25 bolt fits the two threaded holes in the tranny case

[Buzz Skyline]

I am a proud new member of the r Club!

Wow, that's a pretty one! Nicely rounded corners and such. I'm going to go out and touch up my Quiny Hanger a bit.

[bompus]

Very nice Pete. I'll have to become a member of the club soon. I haven't posted anything to my build thread in a while, but I'm making some great progress apart from slicing my hand open today via sharp and jagged rivet mandrel.

I still don't know what I am going to do with my exhaust though. I have a Kinugawa bellmouth flange to hook up to something custom, but I'm not confident enough in my very limited welding skills to try to fab something up so I might end up towing it down to an exhaust/hotrod shop and having them fab me up an exhaust and possibly a mount to go with it. We'll see :)

All that being said, the solution being posted here looks great!

[wleehendrick]

I dont weld either, but with my simple exhaust only requiring one or two joints, I plan to cut my tubes and epoxy tack bond in a couple spots, then bring the exhaust someplace to weld up for me. At work, we build precsion assemblies similarly... Put on alignment fixture, UV tack in place, then remove for cure with permanant adhesive. This two step process keeps the fixture free during a long cure time... for my exhaust, it means I don't need to trailer the whole car in just to weld the exhaust. Assuming the tack bonds hold, anyone see any problems?