Oil pan removal/replacement

[wleehendrick]

So this may be a silly question, but... I have my motor ready to install, with the exception of the Killer B pick-up and baffle to be put in. I got a fairly low-mile donor, so haven't even pulled the tranny. So far, all the motor work I've done (Timing belt, water pump, plugs, VC gaskets, TGVs, etc...) has been with the motor/trans on blocks, since I don't have a great shop with all all the toys (no engine cradle or stand). Well, now that I have to get underneath it, I'm wondering if it's easier to pull the oil pan with the motor hanging from the hoist, or go ahead and install, so it's supported in the 818 frame. Through a little research, I see that it's a bit of a PITA pull the pan in the WRX. However, for those of you that have your motor in, can you comment? Any recommendations? Also, there's no gasket for the pan right? Permatex black or gray RTV gasket maker OK to seal it?

[philly15]

The oil pan is a pain in regard to that you have to pry fairly hard around the pan to break the factory silicone. (so yes there is no actual gasket) Subaru's cross reference part number for silicone is permatex RTV grey just so you know. I think it would be easier off the car, depending how high it is off the ground, just so you have the stability. I had mine in my engine stand, so it was very solid, and was able to flip the motor upside down to pry the pan easier. I also installed the killer B pickup/baffle, and IIRC, there wasn't a whole lot for torque specs and hardware. I think you have to reuse some of the hardware and use the factory torque specs. I know killer B changed this at one point so just make sure to keep the factory hardware around just in case.

[FFRSpec72]

I believe it will be easier to replace with engine out of car, on hoist or engine stand. There is no gasket, I used the Honda sealant that was recommended. Are you installing an STi pan also ? I went with STi pan, Killer B pickup and new dip stick.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wheelenrick,
I had to take off the exhaust manifold to get the engine in the car.
With the exhaust off it is easy to change the oil pan if you don't mind laying on your back under the car.

A better design would have been for ffr to make the motor mount brackets bolt to the frame. Then you could install the motor complete.
Bob

[wleehendrick]

Thanks for the reply! I'll use permatex gray and expect to reuse the OEM hardware and torque to factory specs. What's good to break the original seal? Try to slip a putty knife in, or use a large flat-bladed screwdriver? I don't want to gouge up the surfaces. I'm thinking it would be better to install it in the frame for stability, but it would suck to get it in, have an interference, and just have to lift it up anyway!

[wleehendrick]

Thanks Bob, if the exhaust manifold is the only real interference, then I'll plan on doing it in the frame, just after installing. I'll have to be on my back anyway, and would rather have it mounted in the frame than hanging from a hoist over me!

[Mechie3]

I've changed the pan on two cars WRX's without removing anything other than the undertray. Super huge pain in the butt because the engine cross member hides the back few bolts. It should be much much easier on the 818.

[wleehendrick]

My motor is an EJ255 from an 06 WRX, BTW. So I'm using the stock (same as STI, as I understand) pan, and Craig's dipstick.

[philly15]

My motor is an EJ255 from an 06 WRX, BTW. So I'm using the stock (same as STI, as I understand) pan, and Craig's dipstick.

this is correct, but yea for tools I used a putty knife to break through as much of the stock silicone as possible, then used a fairly large pry bar to wiggle it free. It takes a little patience just so you don't bend anything but it will come don't freak out if it doesn't come right away.

[longislandwrx]

I would get a tube of grey Fujibond from your Subaru dealer (online or physical) it's expensive but IMHO its much better that the stuff you get at autozone or otherwise

[wleehendrick]

Thanks for the input, everyone!

[Harley818]

When I was rebuilding I had it in the enginestand. I just used a large screwdriver and it pried off pretty easily.
The only issue is how easy will it be to clean off the old sealant. It sticks pretty good.
I also switched to STI pickup, pan and dipstick.
Like the others, I used the grey fujibond to seal it up.

[xxguitarist]

I did this today, using an engine stand. Stiff metal putty knife with hammer around all the accessible edges, then a few solid thwacks on a corner with a deadblow rubber mallet.

[sponaugle]

Subaru's cross reference part number for silicone is permatex RTV grey just so you know.

Permatex Grey is similar, but not exactly the same. I have used both, but I prefer the FujiBond 1215 especially if there is a lot of oil exposure. That stuff is pretty amazing stuff.


I used the Honda sealant that was recommended.

I assume you mean HondaBond HT, which is indeed very similar. That stuff also works well in metal-metal interfaces.


I would get a tube of grey Fujibond from your Subaru dealer (online or physical) it's expensive but IMHO its much better that the stuff you get at autozone or otherwise

Yep, this is the stuff:

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0389/5957/products/IMG_1658.JPG?v=1399734728