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tmoretta
04-23-2014, 09:53 AM
Have mounted my '02 donor steering rack on my 818S. My power steering lines are long gone. What can I use to "loop" the lines on the rack? I see that the inlet and outlet fittings are not the size of brake lines. I have already capped the fittings on the passenger side of the rack.

RM1SepEx
04-23-2014, 10:01 AM
remove the rubber seal on the piston inside and plug the holes with RTV

Goldwing
04-23-2014, 10:06 AM
A prettier look is to use a long enough section of pipe to re-flare and create a hard line loop. In my case, I still can't get the passenger side of the loop to budge, so for now (maybe permanently) I just cut the hard lines shorter, pointed them together and clamped a hose on them to finish the loop. It only has to guide air from one side to the other, but could see a little bit of power steering fluid, so something compatible with that is a good idea. Since I never got both off, I never studied the fittings to determine the sizes of the tubing or type of flare.

tmoretta
04-23-2014, 10:18 AM
Yes but since my lines are gone, what size lines, fittings etc?

dougkirkbride
04-23-2014, 11:12 AM
I bought a 20" long metric line at Napa that had the same metric fittings on each end that fit my rack. i bent it in a W shape. looks decent. i would take the rack to the parts store and fit them. i thought they were bubble flared. I know i didnt give you the size but am not by my parts right now.

wleehendrick
04-23-2014, 11:18 AM
I plugged the valve body holes with JB Weld, but left the piston seal on and used a rubber hose and clamps over short stubs of the original lines. It looks pretty good, and I thought the ability to adjust steering dampening may not be a bad thing, give the comment about kick-back in the R&T article. I always have the option to remove if I want. In your case, you'll either need to plug the holes and remove the seal, as Dan mentioned, or get some fittings and lines form someone who has, or will, remove the seal. I wouldn't buy new unless you can find them cheap... I'm sure someone would be happy to give you some, but tossed mine already.

RM1SepEx
04-23-2014, 01:28 PM
Mine are long gone too. It only takes a minute to use an Xacto knife to remove the seal from the rack. Push out the rack, cut the seal and remove it, reassemble the rack, plug the holes, JB Weld, epoxy, plastic plugs, RTV etc... Looks much cleaner than looping the lines!

metros
04-23-2014, 04:20 PM
I forget who came up with this idea but I copied another builder here. Cut the power steering lines, remove fittings, weld closed, grind flat and paint. Free, effective, clean looking and free.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140420_132826_zpsxj6psxza.jpg

Jaime
04-23-2014, 08:50 PM
If you're going to weld, you might as well weld the body instead of the fittings:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140328_212531_zps68e3151a.jpg

tmoretta
04-24-2014, 09:21 AM
Anybody know if new rack bellows are available? Mine are on the verge of splitting.

RM1SepEx
04-24-2014, 10:29 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-OEM-34190FE030-Rack-Pinion-Bellow-Kit-Rack-Pinion-Bellows-/360908676084?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5407d55bf4&vxp=mtr

Goldwing
04-24-2014, 03:43 PM
Yes but since my lines are gone, what size lines, fittings etc?

I'm not sure the sizes, and can't get them loose as me and my donor are both squarely from the rust belt, lol. Checking brake lines one size larger would be a good start or do the piston mod. Doug found one that worked. It doesn't have to be perfect, just let air pass from one side of the piston to the other while keeping crud out. Both approaches accomplish that.

FFRSpec72
04-24-2014, 04:14 PM
I'm not sure the sizes, and can't get them loose as me and my donor are both squarely from the rust belt, lol. Checking brake lines one size larger would be a good start or do the piston mod. Doug found one that worked. It doesn't have to be perfect, just let air pass from one side of the piston to the other while keeping crud out. Both approaches accomplish that.

There are 2 size fittings on the rack, 14mm x 1.5 and 16mm X 1.5, I assume that the loop uses the 14mm X 1.5

Bill Waters
04-24-2014, 06:31 PM
I presume my Eastwood Flare tool will produce bubble flares as perfectly as it does 45 degree double-folds. I'll know soon;... it's off to the shop...



Bill

TahoeTim
04-24-2014, 07:07 PM
So instead of welding the plugs shut, you could just purchase 14mm and 16mm bolts?

Xusia
04-24-2014, 10:33 PM
You could. They just need to be really short. I had a hard time finding them, that is what led me to plug and re-use the fittings.

tmoretta
04-25-2014, 09:38 AM
I thought that the mod had to allow for passage of air from one side to the other. Unless you modify the interior of the rack, you cannot just plug the supply line fittings.

FFRSpec72
04-25-2014, 09:51 AM
You could. They just need to be really short. I had a hard time finding them, that is what led me to plug and re-use the fittings.

Grainger has the plugs in 14 and 16mm

Goldwing
04-25-2014, 10:14 AM
I thought that the mod had to allow for passage of air from one side to the other. Unless you modify the interior of the rack, you cannot just plug the supply line fittings.

Correct. If you plug the lines instead of looping them, you have to remove the piston seal to allow the air to move. Either method.