Brake flaring tool

[metros]

*Just wanted to pass the word that eastwood has the nice brake flaring tool on sale for $199. I saw the ad in this month's Grassroots Motorsports.

www.eastwood.comGM514

*Also, while I'm here - I'm trying to order new rear outer cv boots to replace as I build the axles. However, I can only find front inner boots and rear inner boots. What am I missing here?

[Wayne Presley]

The Eastwood tubing flare tool is the bomb. Well worth the $120 over a standard flaring tool.

[Bill Waters]

Agree 400% with Wayne. And the 37 degree anvil/die is on sale, as well. This thing makes flares as well as any factory machine.

[Mechie3]

If i were to do it again (and i hope my flares dont leak) i wouldnt be such a cheapie and would buy this tool.

[metros]

I don't have a lot of experience with flaring lines. What is the benefit to the 37* die?

[STiPWRD]

Jason, did you buy this Eastwood flaring tool? If so, could I borrow it in about a month? I was just at Harbor Freight yesterday and happened to notice the $10 flaring tool but didn't buy it yet.

[metros]

Yup, and absolutely. I'm sure you'll be ready to run brake lines way ahead of me. Only fee I ask is for some pointers in running my brake lines.

Are you going to use ABS? Update on your build?

[Westview]

The URL is actually www.eastwood.com/GM514. The 37Degree Flare Die Kit is $89.99 extra.

[STiPWRD]

Awesome! I'm actually not planning on running ABS but am keeping the wiring in place in case I want to run add it the future. As far as my build - I just dropped off all the steel brackets, door frames, and firewall aluminum at the powder coater today. Went through 7 of of 10 HF drill bits screwing the holes in the firewall panels lol. Now I see what people mean, their only saving grace is they're soooo cheap. Also, finished converting my trans to 2WD and sealed it up.

[edwardb]

I don't have a lot of experience with flaring lines. What is the benefit to the 37* die?

37 degrees is for AN- or JIC-type fittings. The standard 45 degree setup is the norm for most U.S. fuel and brake lines.

Just to add my endorsement, I bought the Eastwood setup for my Mk4 Roadster build. Did the complete brake line system in rigid 3/16 stainless, and the fuel line system in rigid 3/8 stainless. I had one bad flare during the entire build, and it was my fault for not setting the tube into the die properly. The balance were perfect. I just finished bleeding the system and first start/go-kart. Zero leaks anywhere. I am really impressed. This was my first time doing an all-up system BTW. This is one of those cases where it doesn't pay to have a cheap tool.

[metros]

The above comments are why I made the leap and purchased the eastwood tool. Everyone raves about it and overall quality.

Coming along nicely slava. Looking forward to seeing some pictures in your build thread.

[dougkirkbride]

did a little research on the eastwood tool:
so, if one buys the eastwood tool they get the 45 degree tooling with it, this would work for the 45 degree double flare lines provided by ffr when coupling and cutting. in order to flare the original subaru ends at the master cyl, flex lines and clutch lines one would also need to add the additional tooling for the 37 degree flares unless they use the adaptors? thats about 300 to 350 bucks for the tool and the added tooling just to delete the adaptors. I think i might buy a short line already flared with the 37 degree double flare for coming out of the master cyl (since this seems to be the area of concern) cut the other end off and flare it 45 degree double at the end that ties to the compensation valve. i will use the adaptors every where else. Boom...saved 100 bucks and dont have to buy the 37 degree tooling.
has anyone tried intermixing the flares and flaring the oem subie connections with 45 degree double? i cant imagine it would seal.

[Wayne Presley]

The metric side is still 45° so unless you are doing JIC tubing flares, the basic set up is all you will need.
Did I mention the flaring tool makes perfect flares every time? Just finished up some lines on a car I'm working on, metric on one end with SAE on the other. Piece of cake.

[dougkirkbride]

The metric side is still 45° so unless you are doing JIC tubing flares, the basic set up is all you will need.
Did I mention the flaring tool makes perfect flares every time? Just finished up some lines on a car I'm working on, metric on one end with SAE on the other. Piece of cake.

So the 45 degree double flare will work for both the FFR fittings (tube nuts, couplings, adaptors) and the original subie fittings (tube nuts). I always seem to over complicate things.

[thall818]

A couple years ago I looked at this, but ended up buying http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-MSC71475-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B00063YR2I#

What sold me on this one was being able to do lines on the bench or on the car. I've never looked back. Like the one above, it does the perfect flare every time.

[dougkirkbride]

so evidently the wilwood proportioning valve gets an adaptor. metric? doesnt seem right?

[dougkirkbride]

duh.......... i see they have there own...

[Wayne Presley]

duh.......... i see they have there own...

:cool: Amazing the technical manual may have covered that :-)

[metalmaker12]

The Eastwood tubing flare tool is the bomb. Well worth the $120 over a standard flaring tool.

Agreed!!

[jaw777]

*Also, while I'm here - I'm trying to order new rear outer cv boots to replace as I build the axles. However, I can only find front inner boots and rear inner boots. What am I missing here?

Not sure how to do the fancy quote thing, but to answer your question, you can get the rear outer CV boots from RockAuto. From what I can tell the front inner and rear outer are the same.

[svanlare]

Just ordered the eastwood tool, sold by the comments.

[Jaime]

From what I can tell the front inner and rear outer are the same.They are definitely not the same. The front inner has three protrusion on the inner big end that conform to the surface of the space between the tri-lobes. The rear outer has a smaller big end and is round with no protrusions.

[wleehendrick]

*Also, while I'm here - I'm trying to order new rear outer cv boots to replace as I build the axles. However, I can only find front inner boots and rear inner boots. What am I missing here?

Not sure how to do the fancy quote thing, but to answer your question, you can get the rear outer CV boots from RockAuto. From what I can tell the front inner and rear outer are the same.

Front boots are easy to find as they need to be replaced all the time, but I too had a tough time finding a good replacement for the rear; parts I found at were either wrong or cheap universal fit. I ended up ordering OEM from Somerset Subaru when I got other maintenance items, but the boots are all you need, try your local Subaru dealer.

[nuisance]

Eastwood tool is on sale for $205 this time.

[CptTripps]

I went through 2-3 of the HF tools, and an untold number of botched flares. I'd hazard a guess that I've blown $200 in brakeline that I messed flares up on. I've been thinking of buying this for a while, and absolutely will be ordering today.

People...these are the BRAKES for god's sake. It's worth $300 to make sure you can stop and not hurt yourself, or worse, someone else.