THE K-tuned shifter thread

[wleehendrick]

I decided to start a thread on the K-tuned shifter (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11462-VCP-end-of-Summer-Sale&p=115952&viewfull=1#post115952) I got from Wayne (Very Cool Parts (http://www.verycoolparts.com/)).

I will be getting to mine soon eventually, and already have some questions.

Tom posted photos of his install here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9031-Wallace18-quot-s-818-Build&p=120041&viewfull=1#post120041), and this helps to see how the tranny side goes together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22265&d=1380898044

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22266&d=1380898046

These help, and since I just pulled the Subie shift bracket off the back of my donor's tranny, I can start on that end of things. One question I have is: do the FFR cable washers get used with the shifter? If so, they seem to need trimming to fit the k-tuned shifter, if not, what washers are used? I'm not clear on how to assemble that end of it.

Wayne/Tom/Eric... I know all of you have used it successfully, but I'd really appreciate it if you chime in with any additional install tip and photos for us mere mortals. I figured a new thread makes more sense than PMs, so that it's documented here on the forum. The shifter is so cool, I have to believe a lot of builders will be putting it in!

Thanks,

Lee

[wallace18]

You will have to slot the cut FFR bracket so you can center the cable properly.

[wleehendrick]

You will have to slot the cut FFR bracket so you can center the cable properly.

Thanks, Tom. I've had to slot a few holes to make things fit, so no problem.

Do you have any photos of how the cables attach to the shifter. That's what I'm unsure of.

Thanks,

Lee

[JeromeS13]

Like this? I haven't trimmed the FFR bracket yet.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/Week%206/20131223_211442_zpsdzktyhrz.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/Week%206/20131223_211442_zpsdzktyhrz.jpg.html)

[wleehendrick]

Like this? I haven't trimmed the FFR bracket yet.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/Week%206/20131223_211442_zpsdzktyhrz.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/Week%206/20131223_211442_zpsdzktyhrz.jpg.html)

Thanks! Have you atteched the cable to the levers under the k-tuned shifter? I dont see how to secure them with out trimming the ffr supplied washers.

[wallace18]

Thanks, Tom. I've had to slot a few holes to make things fit, so no problem.

Do you have any photos of how the cables attach to the shifter. That's what I'm unsure of.

Thanks,

Lee

I did not use the FFR washers. the cables go to the shifter bracket and you adjust to the center of the throw. The cable that goes to the arm on the rear of the trans goes to left and right movement arm. The other to the fore and aft arm of the shifter. I did not bolt down the shifter till I had everything adjusted and shifting properly. Mine shifts so nice and quick. It was money well spent IMO. Sorry I did not take photos of the shifter attachment.

[JeromeS13]

+1. I didn't use the FFR washers either.

[wleehendrick]

Thanks for the extra info... good to know the FFR washers are not needed. I get the gist of attaching the cables, it just seems like some washers should in where the cable attaches to the push pull levers under the shifter. I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get there. I'll be working on the back of the tranny first, so thanks for the extra info, guys!


Mine shifts so nice and quick. It was money well spent IMO.

That's what I like to hear! Can't wait to try it out.

Also, to consolidate info on the shifter in one thread, here's another post from Tom's thread


I have had some questions asked of me on the shifter brackets. Here is an answer I hope that helps. You cut the FFR bracket off at the end of the trans. The VCP shifter has the arm mounted up instead of down. You most likely will have to elongate the holes for the bolts to the trans on the side. Then install the VCP bracket for the other cable. I ran the cables under the intake to the shifter. Mount the cables to the trans first then locate your shifter. This worked well for me. Here is some photos. I hope this helps those who had questions.

24397243982439924400

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24397&d=1387639004

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24398&d=1387639006

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24399&d=1387639008

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24400&d=1387639010

[wleehendrick]

P.S. Of course I've already powder-coated the brackets, and now I have to trim them! :(

[AZPete]

I received my K-Tuned shifter yesterday - yes, it's beautiful! I figured out that it needs the cable ends supplied by FRR, but FFR supplies three 1/4"-28 ball stud retainers with ball stud and one 13mm ball stud retainer. I think I need a 4th 1/4"-28 ball stud retainer with ball stud, right? Where can I buy one on those?
Or, is there some way of using the 13mm ball stud?
And, I assume the two holes on each of the shifter arms is for a choice of throw, right?

28076

[wallace18]

I received my K-Tuned shifter yesterday - yes, it's beautiful! I figured out that it needs the cable ends supplied by FRR, but FFR supplies three 1/4"-28 ball stud retainers with ball stud and one 13mm ball stud retainer. I think I need a 4th 1/4"-28 ball stud retainer with ball stud, right? Where can I buy one on those?
Or, is there some way of using the 13mm ball stud?
And, I assume the two holes on each of the shifter arms is for a choice of throw, right?

28076

Everything came with the shifter and 818 kit that I needed.

[AZPete]

Tom, I know it's been a while but do you remember how you connected the cables to the shifter? Did you use the same 1/4" - 28 ball stud retainers w/ ball stud that I see used in the above photos to connect the cables at the rear to the tranny? It's on the right in my photo and I think that's what I need.

[rori]

I thought the 4th 1/4" ball stud retainer came with the shifter from Wayne. IIRC

[wallace18]

Tom, I know it's been a while but do you remember how you connected the cables to the shifter? Did you use the same 1/4" - 28 ball stud retainers w/ ball stud that I see used in the above photos to connect the cables at the rear to the tranny? It's on the right in my photo and I think that's what I need.

I would PM Wayne. I think I used the ones on the right to the shifter. I do not have a good photo to reference. They threaded to the cable and bolted to the shifter. I ended up making my shifter for the longest throw. The other was too short for me. It still is very short throw and the feel is awesome.

[AZPete]

Thanks. I checked the box thoroughly for parts so I'll PM Wayne.

[C.Plavan]

sub'd

[AZPete]

Wayne is sending me the 4th cable end I need. All"s good.

[C.Plavan]

I have been playing with it today. I added Rori's parts. They are great. I just need to mount the shifter in the car.

Are you guys running the shift cables over the motor, our just around the side?

Anyone have pictures of the shifter being installed we can add to the thread?

http://i.imgur.com/SIoYfwnl.jpg

[rori]

Are you guys running the shift cables over the motor, our just around the side?



I went under the intake manifold. There's plenty of room under the drivers side.

Here's my shifter install:

http://i.imgur.com/3IIIehd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oKQLlAG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/B0ywH2F.jpg

[Wayne Presley]

Start out by putting Place the shifter assembly where you want it, drill 3/16" holes through the 3/4" tube and through the mounting tabs. Open the hole to 5/16" on just the outside side of the frame tube and install the 10/32 bolts and nuts.
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/IMG_9680_zpsf4063b8b.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/IMG_9680_zpsf4063b8b.jpg.html)
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/IMG_9679_zps0f4ebf4b.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/IMG_9679_zps0f4ebf4b.jpg.html)

Remove the 4 bolts holding the plates to the tab.
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/IMG_9683_zps28acd597.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/IMG_9683_zps28acd597.jpg.html)

Install the aluminum over the tabs, cut out the opening between the plate mounting bolts.
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/IMG_9685_zps9887951d.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/IMG_9685_zps9887951d.jpg.html)


Install the 84" cable in the fore/aft arm, the 96" in the left/right arm, then center the adjusting nuts in the middle of the threads and tighten them.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/P1020760_zps091acdd4.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/P1020760_zps091acdd4.jpg.html)

Mount plate on the aluminum covered tabs.
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/IMG_9686_zps677531f1.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/IMG_9686_zps677531f1.jpg.html)

Route the cables through the center of the intake along side the FFR supplied battery cable. Mount the FFR supplied shift arm up instead of down. Trim the bottom off the FFR supplied cable bracket as the new bracket moves the cable to the top.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/P1020764_zps98996d4e.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/P1020764_zps98996d4e.jpg.html)

Make sure the transmission is in neutral. Put the fore/aft cable in the bracket and center the threads on the adjusting nuts finger tight. Put the shifter in the center of its fore/aft movement, attach the pivot onto the ball on the shift arm and hold the FFR bracket against the trans mounting to see where you need to redrill the holes. Mark and drill the holes and bolt onto the trans. Then fully tighten the adjusting nuts.

[Wayne Presley]

I have a new optional fore/aft cable bracket for those wanting a bolt on/cleaner look.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/P1020765_zpsbe89542a.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/P1020765_zpsbe89542a.jpg.html)
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/P1020766_zps3bbdff99.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/P1020766_zps3bbdff99.jpg.html)

Mount the right/left cable bracket, install the cable so there is no preload on the cable either way and snap the end on the ball stud. Tighten the adjusting nuts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24399&d=1387639008

Install shift knob of choice and you are all done.

[C.Plavan]

Very helpful. Thanks Rori and Wayne.

[C.Plavan]

I got the shifter all installed today. I'm not sure I can get it in all gears.

Rori- on your shifter arm, it hits the bracket (Wayne's kit, big bracket) on the second hole down on the Shifter arm. I moved it to the top hole. Is that where yours is now? Which holes did you use on the underside of the shifter? The arm with 3 holes I used the one closest to the base. The other arm only has one hole.

I'm going to need to adjust it more. I cant get it in all gears.

[rori]

I got the shifter all installed today. I'm not sure I can get it in all gears.

Rori- on your shifter arm, it hits the bracket (Wayne's kit, big bracket) on the second hole down on the Shifter arm. I moved it to the top hole. Is that where yours is now? Which holes did you use on the underside of the shifter? The arm with 3 holes I used the one closest to the base. The other arm only has one hole.

I'm going to need to adjust it more. I cant get it in all gears.

On my shift arm I am in the second hole. Clearance is really close in 5th gear, but nothing touches. Could you slot the hole in Wayne's bracket and move it down a little?

On the shifter assembly; the arm closest to the driver for the fore/aft cable, mine looks like Wayne welded up a second hole and that's the one I'm using, second from the bottom.

On the arm closest to the passenger for the left/right cable, I am using the bottom hole. When I tried the second hole I was having trouble getting reverse because the shifter assembly is limited in movement in that direction.

[Wayne Presley]

On my shift arm I am in the second hole. Clearance is really close in 5th gear, but nothing touches. Could you slot the hole in Wayne's bracket and move it down a little?

On the shifter assembly; the arm closest to the driver for the fore/aft cable, mine looks like Wayne welded up a second hole and that's the one I'm using, second from the bottom.

On the arm closest to the passenger for the left/right cable, I am using the bottom hole. When I tried the second hole I was having trouble getting reverse because the shifter assembly is limited in movement in that direction.

Use the bottom hole on the right/left and the top hole for the fore/aft cable. If you use the bottom hole it really shortens the shift movement too much in my opinion.

[rori]

Use the bottom hole on the right/left and the top hole for the fore/aft cable. If you use the bottom hole it really shortens the shift movement too much in my opinion.

Yes, this is where I have mine

[C.Plavan]

Here is what I have currently. I think I'm missing a hole or two.

http://i.imgur.com/vVZjs8Cl.jpg (http://imgur.com/vVZjs8C)

http://i.imgur.com/9anLLPtl.jpg (http://imgur.com/9anLLPt)

Rori, I was thinking of notching the rear, but wanted to make sure that's where you had it before I did.

[rori]

Here is what I have currently. I think I'm missing a hole or two.



Your arms look a little different than mine, but that looks like the right positions.

[Wayne Presley]

Chad,
The newest ones have two holes on the L/R arm and only 2 on the fore/aft. YOu should have plenty of range to get all of the gears.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks for the input- I'll mess around adjusting it some more.

[C.Plavan]

Figured it out.....Some Knucklehead maybe had 1 too many beers and swapped the cables under the shifter..... haha.

Swapped them back to the right locations. Shifts like butter!

I'm just going to have to swap sides of the balljoint on Rori's shift arm (Easy). It hits Wayne's bracket in 5th gear and wont go in, and is very close in 3rd. I could also notch the bracket like we discussed earlier.

[dougkirkbride]

rori - I like your large footpads on the left and right side front footwells. where did these come from?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=28710&d=1399069583

[C.Plavan]

Boom- All installed. I love the feel. Thanks again Wayne and Rori.

http://i.imgur.com/dOMfxYUl.jpg

[rori]

rori - I like your large footpads on the left and right side front footwells. where did these come from?


http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_23_35_56&products_id=128

[AZPete]

The beautiful K-Tuned shifter from VCP fell down into the console!
29767

So, I added a little coin cup in front of the shifter and two cup holders. I'm still working on, and thinking about, an arm rest to cover the E-brake mechanism.
29768

[wallace18]

The beautiful K-Tuned shifter from VCP fell down into the console!
29767

So, I added a little coin cup in front of the shifter and two cup holders. I'm still working on, and thinking about, an arm rest to cover the E-brake mechanism.
29768

Really cool idea! I like it!

[Boog]

The beautiful K-Tuned shifter from VCP fell down into the console!
29767

So, I added a little coin cup in front of the shifter and two cup holders. I'm still working on, and thinking about, an arm rest to cover the E-brake mechanism.
29768

Does the shifter really have that short of throw? or is that just a first pass to fine tune the size of the cutout you will need?
I agree with everyone that the K-Tuned shifter looks great, but I'm more interested in the feel and positive feedback it gives. Bling is nice but driving enjoyment comes first in my mind as far as placement.

[metros]

Very nice looking Pete. Now I'm torn between copying Rori's style and basking in the glory of the billet aluminum or Pete's very clean set up.

[AZPete]

Yes, Boog, the throw is that short. The opening I've cut in the aluminum for the shift lever allows me to shift into all gears. The feeling is crisp and sharp so there's no slop and it's clear where the gears are, even though the throw is short. I'm close to go-karting around the 'hood but so far in my garage it shifts very nicely.

[dougkirkbride]

Nice work Pete! very clean. i bought the shifter thinking I would "show it off" your setup looks sweet....hummmm maybe drop it like you have it and put it in a lexan fishbowl so to speak...best of both worlds........wow i should just stay off this forum, i am never going to finish this car.

[C.Plavan]

Yes, Boog, the throw is that short. The opening I've cut in the aluminum for the shift lever allows me to shift into all gears. The feeling is crisp and sharp so there's no slop and it's clear where the gears are, even though the throw is short. I'm close to go-karting around the 'hood but so far in my garage it shifts very nicely.

+1 Very smooth and easy. Best of all, you know what gear you are in, it's so precise.

[Goldwing]

I didn't think this shifter could be improved upon, but this might qualify:

31783
31784

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13026-Goldwing-s-818-Street-The-Phoenix/page3

Post 98 in my build thread explains what I did.

[FFRSpec72]

Has anyone installed the VCP shifter with the aluminum console that FFR is using now ? if so any problems ?

[matteo92065]

I didn't think this shifter could be improved upon, but this might qualify:

31783
31784

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13026-Goldwing-s-818-Street-The-Phoenix/page3


Post 98 in my build thread explains what I did.


I am SO copying this! I like to bedazzle things with LEDs.

[Wayne Presley]

Has anyone installed the VCP shifter with the aluminum console that FFR is using now ? if so any problems ?

No problem with the new console

[Wayne Presley]

Brackets are done for the 6 speed trans!

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/P1030022_zps08f7e8aa.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/P1030022_zps08f7e8aa.jpg.html)

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/P1030024_zps28c3f54f.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/P1030024_zps28c3f54f.jpg.html)

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/P1030023_zps389f5f1a.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/P1030023_zps389f5f1a.jpg.html)

[MrDude_1]

I didn't think this shifter could be improved upon, but this might qualify:

sure it can.
simply remove all the flat billet aluminum pieces and replace with similar custom cut carbon fiber panels... just as stiff, but much lighter.

[Frank818]

Nice thread, will help me a lot.

Except unfortunately it's missing the most important part for me. I am looking for pix of the cable routing and installation from the top of the fuel tank all the way to the driveshafts. Where are the cables going through (center firewall hole or trailing arm hole, then over the engine, on the side, underneath, etc.) and how are they attached (bracket on the engine, brackets on the frames, tie-raps, glue, bubble gum, name it :)), that's what I am looking for at this very moment.

Anyone got those pix? Or in written words that would still be helpful.

[rori]

Nice thread, will help me a lot.

Except unfortunately it's missing the most important part for me. I am looking for pix of the cable routing and installation from the top of the fuel tank all the way to the driveshafts. Where are the cables going through (center firewall hole or trailing arm hole, then over the engine, on the side, underneath, etc.) and how are they attached (bracket on the engine, brackets on the frames, tie-raps, glue, bubble gum, name it :)), that's what I am looking for at this very moment.

Anyone got those pix? Or in written words that would still be helpful.

Center firewall hole, over the fuel tank, under the intake manifold on the drivers side. The only brackets are the ones attached to the transmission.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nice thread, will help me a lot.

Except unfortunately it's missing the most important part for me. I am looking for pix of the cable routing and installation from the top of the fuel tank all the way to the driveshafts. Where are the cables going through (center firewall hole or trailing arm hole, then over the engine, on the side, underneath, etc.) and how are they attached (bracket on the engine, brackets on the frames, tie-raps, glue, bubble gum, name it :)), that's what I am looking for at this very moment.

Anyone got those pix? Or in written words that would still be helpful.

Hey Frank
The cables over the engine and under the intake.
Bob
Edit: Rori beat me by a minute, but I have art.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35863&d=1416526587

[Frank818]

Edit: Rori beat me by a minute, but I have art.

You do. But I must admit by facts that you got beaten still. :p

So "over" the engine. That was my concern. Then I seriously think I might need more than 84", since I cannot go over my VR6 engine... and I might need to bend the cables more as I need to go around the engine, but my engine is not as wide as yours. I think I'll use the FFR supplied cables and make measurements with that, assuming the race k-tuned cables can bend enough. I thought you guys were going "around" the engine by the driver's side, which is why I was looking for an answer. That clears up things for me. Stupid out of the box build I am doing. My bad.

I'll need to use the hole over the trailing arm, I just hope the race cables can bend that much (can they bend as much as the ebrake cables?). No way I can make it through the center hole as I would need a close to 90-deg bend, as the engine will be what, 1/8th from the firewall/frame.

tnx a lot!

[FFRSpec72]

hmmmm, seems the cables are too short of I have to reroute them (I go through the engine, under the intake on the drivers side), looks like cables are about a foot too short, as was thinking about using the console (aluminum one). Hopefully you can see the cable route from the pictures below. only other option I could take is t route them lower on the rear firewall (which means more holes !). Thoughts ?

35971 35972 35973 35974 35975 35976

[C.Plavan]

Wayne's kit was made before the center console. I don't have the center console and I would not want the shifter that far forward anyway. Mine is where you have it. Just modify the center console instead of the other things. That would be easier. Plus you can adjust the shifter knob in hundreds of different positions and heights.

[Wayne Presley]

hmmmm, seems the cables are too short of I have to reroute them (I go through the engine, under the intake on the drivers side), looks like cables are about a foot too short, as was thinking about using the console (aluminum one). Hopefully you can see the cable route from the pictures below. only other option I could take is t route them lower on the rear firewall (which means more holes !). Thoughts ?

35971 35972 35973 35974 35975 35976

You are going through you second firewall too high which is eating up the cable length.

[nkw8181]

This is where I have mine mocked up and looks to be right. Will just need to work out the amount to trim the console so the bends are smooth. I also plan on putting some sort of abrasion protection on the lines in key places.
http://i.imgur.com/p0aVDGh.jpg

[Frank818]

Tnx a lot for the pic Nolan, with those from Tony I am able to see how the cable routes and that I will certainly need a longer version for my application.

[nkw8181]

You can't see the ends because they are covered by the center console but I would say the cables go 2 ft forward of the ebrake cables you see. I'd take solid 12 or 14 gauge wire and run it where the cables should be and then see its length.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank
you can temporarily add a loop the to the FFR cables until you get custom ones made.
the loop does add a lot of back lash to the cables, but it is still drivable.
Bob
36031

[Frank818]

Good idea Bob, but I should be good. I provided Wayne with my length and I am months away before I actually shift with the engine in. I will connect the cables to the shifter on a table and to the tranny, but in the car it'll take a while. I needed to compare the normal cable route (under manif) vs how I would be doing it. Normal k-tuned cables are 84" long, I gave 103 to Wayne (tip to tip), I gotta run them on the side of the engine, adding around 19in. :)

[FFRSpec72]

You are going through you second firewall too high which is eating up the cable length.

I re-routed the cables and mocked up the console and all looks like it works out, went to hook up shift linkage and was missing the 2 nuts that go on the ends of the cables swivels, anyone know size ?

36145

[Wayne Presley]

They are 1/4-28

[Frank818]

Install the 84" cable in the fore/aft arm, the 96" in the left/right arm, then center the adjusting nuts in the middle of the threads and tighten them.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/P1020760_zps091acdd4.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/P1020760_zps091acdd4.jpg.html)


Ok Wayne, what's the trick here? The 1/4-28 ball stud retainers w/ball studs do not thread in the shifter arm's holes, the threads aren't the same at all (longer on the arms). I got the 1st version of the shifter kit (Nov 2013).

[Wayne Presley]

Your holes need to be drilled out to 1/4", yours was drop shipped from Ktuned since you're both in Canada.

[Frank818]

Ok I thought they needed to be threaded (I don't have the tools for that). I drilled them out, works perfect. As always Wayne has a solution.

[metalmaker12]

He's pretty good, helped me out a few times and I have been at this for awhile.

[dougkirkbride]

So i am getting cables hooked up to tranny and k-tuned shifter. i put my slave cylinder back on and am wondering if the shift rod in the back of the tranny is moving the required amount. i push my clutch in but cant tell if anything is disingaged? how much does the 5/8 rod that moves fore and aft move? i am getting what seems to be 3 positions, in, out 3/8, out another 1/4, then out another 1/8.

i am only getting side to side movement of roughly 3/8 each side, measured about 3.5" (where cable connects) from center of shift rod. this side to side movement is only in the 3/8 out position.

movement seems hard, my tranny is dry, would it help to put fluid in?

[Wayne Presley]

I just measured a 5 speed
3rd --- .349" ---N--- .398"--- 4th
The Subaru trans in general has never been one of those usually listed as great shifting. The S2000, Miata are butter smooth, WWRX not so much...

[dougkirkbride]

Thanks Wayne. Mine is a five speed as well.
my out 1/8 & out 1/4 i believe are the same position. so I got roughly the same numbers you did. not sure what i was thinking but really there are only 3 for/aft positions, in-mid&out. I have a little more tweeking to go, still need to hit 5th. still havent put fluid in it, but dont see where that would make anything any smoother.

[wleehendrick]

I got my shifter and cable setup with a dry tranny and no hydraulics. Its notchy, but thats to be expected with no gear oil and the clutch engaged. One thing that helped was to get a feel for every gear location by shifting by hand at the rod... before hooking up any cables. I also had it in the air with wheels on so its easy to confirm your in gear or neutral by spinning a wheel.

[C.Plavan]

Just an FYI- For those guys running an 818R with a dry sump, you may want to run the cables under the motor (if you do not have a fuel tank in stock location). You can run them over manifold, but the dry sump oil pump is right there. You lose alot of slack going around the pump and associated belt. It gets really tight and the cables get too close to the belt (too close for comfort for me). I think I was having trouble downshifting from 5th to 4th because of this (and the motor moving due to ...racing). I have New Group N mounts. All other shifting was perfect. The 84" cable is the possible problem (no real slack anymore). If Wayne can get you both cables 96", you should be fine going over the motor.

I'm going to drill two new holes through the firewall (I may not even have to drill, I have to get under the car and see) and run them under/ or the bottom side of motor this time for more slack. This will also get them away from the oil pump/belt. I'll let you know if that fixed my problem with the 5th to 4th downshift after next weekend's race, I'm 95% positive it will.

[Hindsight]

If you are having a lot of trouble with engine movement, you might consider Cusco motor/trans mounts. They are much stiffer than the Group N.

[C.Plavan]

If you are having a lot of trouble with engine movement, you might consider Cusco motor/trans mounts. They are much stiffer than the Group N.

The N mounts really don't move that much, but just enough with the no slack short cable. I'm happy with them.

[Wayne Presley]

Chad, I can swap you out a longer cable if you want.

[C.Plavan]

Chad, I can swap you out a longer cable if you want.

Thanks Wayne, but I think I figured it out. I'll know after this weekend, wish me luck.

[metros]

I've got my cables hooked up. Shifting 1-5 without issue but can't seem to get into reverse. Any adjustments I can make or tips to double check? Fluid is in and it has been driven.

[Wayne Presley]

I've got my cables hooked up. Shifting 1-5 without issue but can't seem to get into reverse. Any adjustments I can make or tips to double check? Fluid is in and it has been driven.

Well 5th and reverse are in the same R&L gate, 2,4, & reverse so i don't why it won't go into reverse

[Mechie3]

Disconnect the shifter and see if you can do it by hand. Might help narrow down the issue to the trans or your cable connection.

Also, in my Subaru (both of the ones I've had) it didn't always like reverse. I think its non synchro'd and I'd sometimes have to give it a few tries or let the clutch slip a little to give the trans just enough rotation to slide in.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I've got my cables hooked up. Shifting 1-5 without issue but can't seem to get into reverse. Any adjustments I can make or tips to double check? Fluid is in and it has been driven.

Metros
Did you know there is a lockout mechanism that does not let you go from fifth to reverse.
You have to go back to the middle neutral position before it will let you go into reverse.
Bob

[nkw8181]

It may help to "shift from underneath and see if you're bottoming it the cables. I did that because at first I found it wouldn't go fully in gear

[FFRSpec72]

Does the offset of the cable to shift linkage look right ? Also I'm using the second hole from the bottom of the shift linkage, is that correct ? The shifter seems to be very stiff and hard to find the gears, trying to determine the cause, thoughts ?

50266

[Wayne Presley]

That is correct.

[Frank818]

Should have posted here I guess since it's K-Tuned related.

Wayne what's your experienced opinion on this?

K-Tuned shifter loose? (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19905-K-Tuned-shifter-loose)

[FFRSpec72]

OK, I can't seem to get the shifter to shift, I have tried adjusting the damn thing many different times and ways, it seems to move the shifting shaft in/out ok (3 positions) but not side to side. I'm hoping this is not a transmission issue ... Thoughts ???? Getting very frustrated

[STiPWRD]

OK, I can't seem to get the shifter to shift, I have tried adjusting the damn thing many different times and ways, it seems to move the shifting shaft in/out ok (3 positions) but not side to side. I'm hoping this is not a transmission issue ... Thoughts ???? Getting very frustrated
Have you tried unhooking the linkage from the trans, putting a screw driver into the selector shaft and seeing it it will shift, move side to side? That should tell you if there are issues inside the trans.

[Frank818]

Yes try to shift it at the gearbox first.

[FFRSpec72]

Have you tried unhooking the linkage from the trans, putting a screw driver into the selector shaft and seeing it it will shift, move side to side? That should tell you if there are issues inside the trans.

Yes, but that was a while ago, I guess I can try that again, but I assume that the shaft all the way in is 1st/2nd and to the left is 1st, right is 2nd ? and 3rd/4th is in the middle and left is 3rd, right is 4th and all the way out is 5th and reverse, left is 5th, right is reverse ?

[STiPWRD]

Looking at trans from the back: Left rotation is counter clockwise, Right rotation is clockwise

Left In: 1st
Left Out: 2nd
Middle In: 3rd
Middle Out: 4th
Right In: 5th
Right Out: R

[Wayne Presley]

And the Subrau 5 speed isn't known for it's buttery feel...

[FFRSpec72]

Looking at trans from the back: Left rotation is counter clockwise, Right rotation is clockwise

Left In: 1st
Left Out: 2nd
Middle In: 3rd
Middle Out: 4th
Right In: 5th
Right Out: R

This seems odd as moving shifter left and right moves shaft in/out so moving from 1st to 2nd means moving shifter left/right

[STiPWRD]

This seems odd as moving shifter left and right moves shaft in/out so moving from 1st to 2nd means moving shifter left/right
You may have your cables mixed up b/w the shifter and linkage. Moving the shifter left/right should equate to rotating the selector arm counter-clockwise/clockwise.

[FFRSpec72]

You may have your cables mixed up b/w the shifter and linkage. Moving the shifter left/right should equate to rotating the selector arm counter-clockwise/clockwise.

hmmm, that may do it, will verify tonight

[FFRSpec72]

You may have your cables mixed up b/w the shifter and linkage. Moving the shifter left/right should equate to rotating the selector arm counter-clockwise/clockwise.

Yep that was it, seems to now shift into gears, now need to adjust, thanks !

[metros]

You're not the only one that reversed those at first
Glad it was an easy fix.

[prematureapex]

N/M: Questions answered.

[prematureapex]

Edit, thank you