Adam's Canadian 13B Rotary 818-SR Build [Archive]

Canadian818

01-04-2014, 11:18 AM

I decided to list most of my mods here and something of a table of contents, the actual build thread starts just below...

Chassis #91 818S
Drivetrain
'96+ Jdm 13b rotary from a twin turbo RX7
-single BW 8374 twin scroll turbo on custom manifold
-Subaru 5mt via Volks Conversion adapter plate
-GM DBW throttle body
-AEM smart coils x4
-cx racing a2a intercooler and 19 row oil coolers
-magnaflow strait through muffler and high flow cat
-AEM Infinity ECU

Round Stuff
XXR 531's 18x11 +20 and 18x8.5 +20
Nitto NT01 305/35/ZR18 245/40/ZR18
Z32 Nissan aluminum callipers
DBA STI 2-piece front rotors, WRX rear

page 3......First mention of the 13b rotary
page 4......Test fit engine
page 7......Fitting wide wheels
page 9......Wiring
page 10....A2A and exhaust fab
Page 14....Widebody build

The day finally arrived! I was hoping to get it before christmas so I could start working on it over the holidays, but to be honest I'm still not ready for it. Still need to prep and paint my donor parts, but now that the kits here I'll just paint everything together. I'm a welder by trade, and plan to fabricate a few things along the way. At work we often joke that after 30 years of welding you get an honorary Over-engineering degree, but I'm nowhere near that so I welcome critics from our communities real engineers.

These first few pics are a bit blurry, taken with my iPhone. I'll use my camera to document the rest of the build.

This is my 2007 Impreza RS donor
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/81817.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/81817.jpeg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/81813.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/81813.jpeg.html)

Not sure what happened here...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/81814.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/81814.jpeg.html)

Or here :D

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/81815.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/81815.jpeg.html)

Canadian818

01-04-2014, 11:19 AM

01/02/2014 was a big day for me!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8187.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8187.jpeg.html)

Crate barely fit on the trailer, had about an inch on each side...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8189.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8189.jpeg.html)

Peek-A-Boo!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8186.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8186.jpeg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8185.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8185.jpeg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8184.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8184.jpeg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8183.jpeg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8183.jpeg.html)

On my packing list its written #91 in pen, I'd imagine that's my chassis number. Not sure if the the actually FFR serial number is mounted somewhere on the chassis or not, still has the body taped to it. Started inventory last night, as mentioned in other build threads its very loosely packed. Once I've completed inventory I'll consolidate some boxes, being sure to keep track of what went where. So far only a few things on back order, and a few WTF brackets that I'll post pics of later so someone can tell me what I'm looking at :o.

So far I'm impressed with the quality of the kit. All the edges not taped are good, and weld splatter on at least the front of the frame is minimal. Too soon to determine the quality of the powdercoat, as I haven't inspected it all yet. Most of the welds on the un-coated parts seem good. Good for mig anyway. I will probably 'wash' over some corners and 'stop-starts' with tig before paint, but mainly for cosmetic reasons. For some reason I thought the corrugated rad hose smooth rubber on the inside, I now see why Micheal Everson designed the hose kit and some used silicone elbows. I also didn't expect a hard copy of the manual, as I thought only a digital copy was included.

Ordered my 818S with race splitter, defuser, and race wing. That's why I call it an SR. The splitter and defuser were included in the crate, however not wrapped at all, just laid on top of the boxes which surprised me. However they seem to be in good condition and all hardware and strakes were included. The defuser is mounted with 3/16 rivets, but I'll be using some stainless button head bolts like the splitter. I'd imagine removing it would be necessary for any exhaust work.

Still waiting on the parts deleted from the Canadian kits, so no gas tank, brake lines, coilovers, upper A-arms or axles yet. Sitting on the bare frame, I would like a little more leg room. Seats will be ordered this week, so I'll wait for them before considering modifying the gas tank. Also my head was about two inches from the top of the roll bar, so with a seat and helmet on I might need to tilt the seating position to get me lower.

No engine yet. The donor engine has issues, and I never planned to use it. I've considered a few options, and will probably be using a EZ30R. Its actually cheaper for me than a JDM EJ. Not even sure if my NA harness would be of use on a turbo EJ, and I have no intentions of doing the wiring myself. So JDM EZ costs less than a EJ, and either way I'd be going through Wayne for wiring and tuning. Now what I've got planned for the EZ will ruin my "cheaper" theory, but I expected to modify either engine heavily over time. No mention of those plans until I at least of the engine though, as nothing is certain until the engine is ordered. No bench racing for me

I'm also going to leave the 5spd open for this summer. Something stronger will be needed in the next year or two, and until I have driven it with the gearing I have, I don't know what gearing I want and which direction I'll take (5spd vs 6spd).

That's enough rambling for this morning, time to finish inventory and start taking off body panels. I'm going to try to find some cheap cargo nets today and attach most of the body work to the ceiling "spiderman style".

Adam

wleehendrick

01-04-2014, 12:15 PM

Congrats! Look forward to watching another H6 (hopefully) build.

Mechie3

01-04-2014, 01:20 PM

Serial number is stamped into the frame near the driver side windshield mount. It should have been taped off and left unpowdercoated.

AZPete

01-04-2014, 02:00 PM

Congrats on the new baby! As Craig said, the chassis number is just above the driver's knee on the frame. Instead of nets for the body parts, I hung everything from the garage ceiling and walls with just nylon cord through holes or openings. Cheap, easy and nothing touching the surfaces but it looks like a car bomb exploded.
PM sent regarding some donor parts I need.
Pete

Frank818

01-04-2014, 04:04 PM

Yes sir Adam!

But when where these donor pix taken? Certainly not recently! lolll

Canadian818

01-04-2014, 04:33 PM

Yes sir Adam!

But when where these donor pix taken? Certainly not recently! lolll

Haha no, I dragged my *** a little on the tear down.

Thanks guys, I'll have a look for it when I get home.

Canadian818

01-05-2014, 05:13 PM

Serial number was right where you said, it is indeed #91. I have a few questions for the first #90 builders to complete my inventory...

Is this the Clutch Cylinder Spacer? It looks about right, no mention of it in the manual though, and my pedal box is not very accessible right now.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1769.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1769.jpg.html)

I recognize this as a coilover wrench, but there's only one part number listed for "Rivnut Tool/Coil-Over Wrench" and I'm not sure how its possible to install rivnuts with a coilover wrench...anyone get a rivnut tool? Obviously the little black piece is the "U" nut.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1772.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1772.jpg.html)

I know this is the rear tunnel cover, but does anyone know what its called on the inventory list? It might be one of my missing items from my list that the name doesn't make sense to me.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1770.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1770.jpg.html)

Can anyone tell me what this is? Part #80376 written on the bag. I don't have that number anywhere on my inventory lists, so I suspect its related to the items deleted from the Canadian kits. I haven't received my completion kit yet.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1771.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1771.jpg.html)

Did anyone's Transaxle Converter look like this? Looks like it spent a few years in salt water!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1768.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1768.jpg.html)

Also, quite a few of my nut/bolt packages were off on quantities. In most cases there were more, if not double, but a few were short. The value on the bag matched its contents, but not the list. There were also a few items checked off that were not in the box, but that applied to a few boxes.

Interesting note, my headlight buckets are plastic but my inner door panels are fiberglass. I guess FFR is still practicing their thermoforming.

Thanks, Adam

wleehendrick

01-05-2014, 05:49 PM

Is this the Clutch Cylinder Spacer? It looks about right, no mention of it in the manual though, and my pedal box is not very accessible right now.

Yes, use two stacked.

I recognize this as a coilover wrench, but there's only one part number listed for "Rivnut Tool/Coil-Over Wrench" and I'm not sure how its possible to install rivnuts with a coilover wrench...anyone get a rivnut tool? Obviously the little black piece is the "U" nut.

Yes, with some additional hardware. It's explained in the Appendex C. It's a bit cumbersome, but works. I installed a couple with it, but have since ordered a threadsetter.

I know this is the rear tunnel cover, but does anyone know what its called on the inventory list? It might be one of my missing items from my list that the name doesn't make sense to me.

I think they call it the e-brake trim cover?

Can anyone tell me what this is? Part #80376 written on the bag. I don't have that number anywhere on my inventory lists, so I suspect its related to the items deleted from the Canadian kits. I haven't received my completion kit yet.

80376 are parts for the rear Koni coilovers.

Did anyone's Transaxle Converter look like this? Looks like it spent a few years in salt water!

Not as bad, but similar!

Canadian818

01-05-2014, 08:52 PM

Thanks wleehendrick!

Yes, with some additional hardware. It's explained in the Appendex C. It's a bit cumbersome, but works. I installed a couple with it, but have since ordered a threadsetter.

I was thinking about picking up the kit at Princess Auto (Canadian version of harbor freight), it looks like a riveter, costs $35 and includes some rivnuts.

I think they call it the e-brake trim cover?

I wonder if its the E-Brake Cable Mount #80373?

Mechie3

01-05-2014, 09:38 PM

Canadian818

01-05-2014, 09:46 PM

Its the ebrake cable mount. My converter looked the same. Subaru hasn't had fwd cads in the us for a while so they could be old old stock. It also looks like maybe it was a temporary coating like wd40 sprayed on that over time hardened instead of being an oily coat in the bag.

Thanks Mechie! One more item crossed off. :)

Removing the body work today and wrapping it with all my new brown paper for storage. Finding a few bad spots now, will post pics later.

C.Plavan

01-05-2014, 11:02 PM

Geez- I think a lot of us are still waiting for our front race splitters, door panels...... I'm #44....

Have fun!

Canadian818

01-06-2014, 01:37 AM

Geez- I think a lot of us are still waiting for our front race splitters, door panels...... I'm #44....

Have fun!

They probably thought, "if we send this to chad, we'll have to pay a fortune to ship Adam's up to Canada later. Just throw it in the crate jimmy, anywhere will do, don't bother wrapping it!" ;)

Mechie3

01-06-2014, 04:19 AM

Geez- I think a lot of us are still waiting for our front race splitters, door panels...... I'm #44....

Have fun!

Gotta bug them. They do try to fill outgoing orders as much as possible to save on shipping later but if you send them a reminder you might get them faster. Happened with me.

RM1SepEx

01-06-2014, 07:38 AM

Gotta bug them. They do try to fill outgoing orders as much as possible to save on shipping later but if you send them a reminder you might get them faster. Happened with me.

double ditto

their B/O system is non-existent... bug them continuously, if you prod when they are there, poof, in a box and shipped out! I'm my case by FedX the next day...

C.Plavan

01-06-2014, 11:31 AM

Thanks- Calling today. Anybody I should ask for? Or just shipping dept?

Mechie3

01-06-2014, 11:36 AM

I email Joe Scott. He then coordinates shipping and sales to update my order and get it shipped out.

longislandwrx

01-06-2014, 12:53 PM

Yeah Chad ask him where the bubble windshields are. I think that and the door cards are the only things I am missing!

Mechie3

01-07-2014, 10:14 AM

I emailed Joe yesterday about my diffuser strakes and the mistake on the rear trunk. 2 hours later I had a tracking number from fedex for my new trunk, strakes, and rivets. BAM!

:D

Also check your paperwork when they deliver stuff to make sure it's correct. Mine had said they delivered all the CF pieces when they hadn't. Just keep track of everything and you'll get it all.

Canadian818

01-07-2014, 11:45 AM

I had a number of items checked off my lists that weren't in the box.

Frank818

01-07-2014, 08:03 PM

Looks like cleaning up the inventory is harder than building the kit. :)

metalmaker12

01-07-2014, 09:02 PM

Yeah, Joe Scott is the man !!!

Junty

01-07-2014, 10:31 PM

Canadian818

01-07-2014, 11:23 PM

Hey Adam, best of luck. Thanks for the pictures of kit arriving in a crate. My kit is due for shipping in a FFR crate shortly, and after your postings I'm a little nervous... Was anything strapped down within the crate? My kit is travelling by ocean all the way to bottom of the world - aka New Zealand...

The car is chained to the floor of the crate, there's almost no movement. The body is securely attached, bubble wrap and foam where parts could rub. Boxes were just laid in there, but anything worth protecting in the boxes is wrapped well enough. As mentioned before, the CF pieces were just laid on top of the boxes freely, but they seem fine.

Xusia

01-08-2014, 11:36 AM

For what it's worth, my carbon fiber pieces were boxed and wrapped, but I didn't get a shipping crate.

Canadian818

01-08-2014, 11:57 PM

Could any of you kind gents please tell me what these are?

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1807.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1807.jpg.html)

Pretty sure the two pieces to the right are;

Fuse Panel Mount Front (80526), and Rear (80527)

No idea what the other two pieces could be. I hate that there was a bag of unmarked aluminum pieces, so I had to thumb through the manual to find out what everything was. Also, a few bigger paper wrapped panels were unmarked, or the numbers were to sloppy to decipher. There's a aluminum panel appendix that proved quite useful, for those yet to get their kit.

Not to much on back order, sending in my list tonight.

Trans cover;
clip hardware
rivnuts
rad hose adapters

What I found missing;
nose mount (got x2 left, no right)
battery cable
ball stud retainers
shift cable washers
shift linkage bracket
expandable gromets
and some nuts/bolts

Frank818

01-09-2014, 07:50 AM

Is FFR doing an inventory before they pack the items?

wallace18

01-09-2014, 08:29 AM

2 items on left go to the rear bumper for support of the hood pins under the fiberglass.

Canadian818

01-09-2014, 08:58 AM

2 items on left go to the rear bumper for support of the hood pins under the fiberglass.
Thanks Wallace.

Canadian818

01-09-2014, 08:59 AM

Is FFR doing an inventory before they pack the items?

Yes, but they missed a few things.

Frank818

01-09-2014, 10:13 AM

Hey Adam, how long are you waiting for your completion kit (outside of FFR)?

I have to time that on my end, I got moved up so early now (April) that I need to find a donor quickly and then order the completion kit, which I can't without knowing the donor first. :)

Canadian818

01-09-2014, 11:44 AM

Ordered it over a month ago. Whitby still hasn't received it from FFR, and FFR won't discuss the completion kit with Canadian customers.

Frank818

01-09-2014, 08:28 PM

I will order mine tomorrow.
And we Canadians have to pay USD$200 more for the whole kit, cuz they charge 200 more on the completion kit than the value of the deleted items. Oh well, you take it or you leave it, gotta help the American economy. :)

Adam do you think you can make it a roller without the completion kit?

DodgyTim

01-09-2014, 09:17 PM

Don't complain about the $200 extra for the completion kit, it's $800 extra for right hand drive:(

Canadian818

01-10-2014, 12:52 AM

Adam do you think you can make it a roller without the completion kit?

No, coil overs and upper a-arms are in the completion kit. Can't finish any stage without it.

Frank818

01-10-2014, 07:44 AM

No, coil overs and upper a-arms are in the completion kit. Can't finish any stage without it.

Crap. Stupid Transport Canada.

Canadian818

01-16-2014, 11:56 PM

So not a lot to show, but many many hours have been spent. The garage was supposed to be cleaned/organized over the holidays, but instead I put on 10 pounds. Funny how having the car in the garage is a huge motivator to just get out there, even if I'm not working on it. I removed all the body work, wrapped it with the FFR brown paper and got it "up" out of the way. Fenders, deck lit, and bumper all fit in the garage attic.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1819.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1819.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1794.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1794.jpg.html)

Then I got to tearing up the crate, lots of good wood there.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1792.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1792.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1793.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1793.jpg.html)

First project with all the wood, chassis dolly!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1795.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1795.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1798.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1798.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1796.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1796.jpg.html)

Thanks to AZPete for the idea. I couldn't find any affordable wheels, so I blocked up on the bottom of the planks too. If or when a wheel breaks its only a 1" drop, enough to scare a little poop out, but not to damage anything. I probably wont let it rest on the dolly as is with the engine, unless I'm in the mood to test weight ratings.

Canadian818

01-17-2014, 12:19 AM

Carbon Fiber post! Just so everyone knows, I love carbon fiber...

Diffuser

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1766.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1766.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1767-1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1767-1.jpg.html)

Race Splitter

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1764.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1764.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1765-1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1765-1.jpg.html)

These showed up last night! Thanks Erik (33 Machine) for the deal. After shipping, the exchange rate (CND is at a 4 year low) and customs charges, still ended up under the USD MSRP.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1818.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1818.jpg.html)

Either that's a freakishly strong 5 year old, or those babies are Carbon Fiber!!!!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1808.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1808.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1816.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1816.jpg.html)

The quality of the seats is top notch. The width is good, I was a little worried that I'd have to maintain my "fit" 36" waist to be comfortable, but my "winter" size 38 was acceptable. My only worry is the height of the harness holes, but until I do some test fitting in the car with pics I'll refrain from judgement. I also have a few solutions in mind. The bottom cushions are removable, and you can access the foam inside for trimming if need be. More pics of those soon.

Canadian818

02-23-2014, 01:33 AM

So it turns out I'm terrible at maintaining a build thread, its been over a month! I usually browse the forum on my iPhone, and never break out the laptop to post pics. Anyway...

Plugged up the steering rack holes, haven't seen it done quite this way yet.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1826.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1826.jpg.html)

Grabbed a few bolts from the hardware store, had to cut the heads off to fit them in. Slotted them so I could tighten with a screwdriver. The other two were subframe bolts I think. Couldn't find my locktite so I put some JB on the threads.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1827.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1827.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1828.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1828.jpg.html)

Then I cut them flush.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1829.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1829.jpg.html)

More updates tomorrow, finally got my oven wired in the garage so its time to start powder coating.

Frank818

02-23-2014, 08:48 AM

Nice seats!

wleehendrick

02-23-2014, 10:30 AM

Nice seats!

Very nice! just like mine (NRG) but I din't spring for c.f. :(

I like how you plugged the steering rack. I'm just starting to work on mine, and may copy your idea.

Canadian818

02-23-2014, 12:37 PM

So I took a shot at powder coating, and the front spindle brackets are in the oven now. I had the parts pre-heating in the oven when I took out the powder and realized I didn't have black. I ordered a starter kit months ago, and I don't understand why I didn't get one with black. My choices were limited, only real options were gold or silver. I have some aluminum Z32 callipers coming and their going gold so I went with that. If it stands out through the wheel I'll just re-coat it black later. Pics soon!

tmoretta

02-23-2014, 12:41 PM

Which NRG model are they? I am concerned that this brand is a cheap Chinese copy of something like Corbeau or Sparco, any thoughts?

Canadian818

02-23-2014, 01:00 PM

Cooling now, seen at least one blemish. Not worried, first try. Probably because I used thinner instead of acetone for cleaning, or just lack there of.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1833.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1833.jpg.html)

Canadian818

02-23-2014, 01:06 PM

Which NRG model are they? I am concerned that this brand is a cheap Chinese copy of something like Corbeau or Sparco, any thoughts?

They're NRG RSC-300's. The quality doesn't appear 'cheap', however there is a little flex in it. I expect it will go away once its bolted down though. My issue is the harness holes are so limiting, unlike the ones pictured on the website. If I can't line it up properly I'll have to make the holes larger and find a new grommet. It still might work though, so I'm not worried just yet.

Rasmus

02-24-2014, 01:41 AM

I have some aluminum Z32 callipers comin...
I'm feeling all warm and fuzzy. Can't wait to see pictures.

Canadian818

02-27-2014, 09:08 PM

Is everyone installing their shocks as they come in the box? I remember reading months ago about adjusting them, but there's never any mention of it in the build threads.

Xusia

02-27-2014, 09:25 PM

They come preset for the 818. As I understand it, the "settings" were derived at via track testing by Wayne with the help of on-site Koni engineers. So they should be really good out of the box. :)

Frank818

02-28-2014, 12:25 PM

If my memory of reading Erik's thread doesn't fail, they come at the lowest of their 3 settings, which is the smoothest.

Canadian818

02-28-2014, 03:50 PM

Thanks Frank!

Xusia

02-28-2014, 03:55 PM

Frank818

02-28-2014, 07:55 PM

Yeah too stiff is bad for roads around here. It makes the car much less good at handling, so the opposite effect, in essence.
They may be that hard cuz they are new and not broke in yet. But I wouldn't be surprised if they actually are stiffer than almost any production car, it's race kit car, after all. lolll

Spotty

03-01-2014, 12:54 AM

Canadian818

03-01-2014, 02:18 AM

Hey! Another Albertan! I'm down in Lethbridge.

As for the seats, they are usually pretty good but they are cheaper because they arnt crash tested. I don't think that's a huge deal since they just copy a seat that does.

If this thing is running this summer you should head down here for July 11-13. Street Wheelers weekend. It's huge and so much fun!

Welcome to the forum, I might have to check that show out. Even if the car is done, I doubt I'll go that far without a top. If your ever in Edmonton, drop by and say hello.

RM1SepEx

03-01-2014, 08:19 AM

I thought they had more than 3 settings. Regardless, let me tell you these are stiff - REALLY stiff. I literally have to jump up and down on the frame to get the suspension to move - pushing on it does nothing. Even then, I'm lucky if I can get it to move an inch. Compare that to any production car, which moves quite a bit with just pushing. The suspension is designed and calibrated for excellent handling right out of the box.

I believe that there are 5 settings. They are intended to fit the application in the as shipped, softest position and then be adjusted stiffer as they wear with use. The red R shocks and the yellow S shocks are not the same construction or dampening

Canadian818

03-01-2014, 11:16 AM

Little elbow grease goes a long way!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1836.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1836.jpg.html)

Does everyone spend this much time on nuts and bolts? Sand blasted, wired wheeled, and POR15.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1837.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1837.jpg.html)

Look what showed up! I tried to convince my wife to hand it on the wall above our bed, but no luck.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1838.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1838.jpg.html)

Quality is amazing!!!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1840.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1840.jpg.html)

Picked up some black powder coat, getting all the little stuff done. I was able to fit all this in at once, however after the bake I opened the oven to cool but failed to turned the oven off (not used to the new buttons, haha). Anyway, an hour later I went out to check out my parts and seen the coil glowing, oops. The parts were alright, slight signs of over heating but nothing worth re-doing.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1841.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1841.jpg.html)

Rasmus

03-01-2014, 11:39 AM

Does everyone spend this much time on nuts and bolts? Sand blasted, wired wheeled, and POR15.

I wish I had a better plan for my nuts and bolts. I don't want to change the size of the heads by applying layers of product. Or have to worry about the product gumming up the threads requiring a die or tap on every single piece. But I don't want just just run bare and have my hardware rust up again. I think I'm looking for a mythological product to treat hardware.

And car parts in the kitchen?! And such a well put together kitchen too. Keep your nasty, greasy, car parts out of that woman's kitchen. What would her mother think? You barbarian. :p

Canadian818

03-01-2014, 11:45 AM

I wish I had a better plan for my nuts and bolts. I don't want to change the size of the heads by applying layers of product. Or have to worry about the product gumming up the threads requiring a die or tap on every single piece. But I don't want just just run bare and have my hardware rust up again. I think I'm looking for a mythological product to treat hardware.

And car parts in the kitchen?! And such a well put together kitchen too. Keep your nasty, greasy, car parts out of that woman's kitchen. What would her mother think? You barbarian. :p

I used silver anti-seize on the shafts and threads, and the por15 goes on quite thin and hard so sockets have been fitting fine and no gumming. I did paint the entire shaft of the rear lateral link bolts because it's exposed, but put a thin film of anti-seize on it as well. It slid in just fine.

It funny you say that about the kitchen, my mother is visiting and I was sure to unwrap and rewrap while she was out.

Goldwing

03-01-2014, 12:01 PM

I originally planned on treating all the bolts that way, but my last project lingered too long and I ran out of time when the kit showed up. It's one of those things that needs to be done in the donor prep phase, as I am finding I don't have the patience now. I can't help myself and just have to see progress on the build. This cold winter isn't helping either. I'm painting all bare steel, a few at a time, at the end of any build session and let the air clear overnight.

Canadian818

03-01-2014, 01:04 PM

Here's an idea I had, it will either be helpful to future builders or shot down as a flawed theory. Give me feedback either way.

I recently noticed a discussion on the forum about how to torque the front LCA after installing the firewall. The issue is it needs to be done at ride height, and typically the firewall is done prior to that stage of the build. While a crows foot might do the trick, it might be awkward, and you need to locate a 22mm crows foot. Also depending on the length of the crows foot, you'll be adding leverage which will affect the torque applied. You could also make a mark aligning both LCA and bushing at ride height, remove everything, clamp in place, torque on the bench and reinstall. The torqued bushing puts tension on the arm, stiffening movement and somewhat limiting travel. I accidentally over torqued the bushing (but not by much), and the difference in stiffness of the LCA was incredible. So it would seem to be critical to torque the bushing to OEM spec, which according to the FFR manual is 140ft/lbs.

I decided to bring the suspension to ride height, as apposed to lowering the chassis since its on a dolly. Once at ride height I torqued it to 140ft/lbs, and now that's done. Pretty simple, but its out of the way early. I realized after taking this pic that since I knew the overall diameter of the tire, I didn't need to mount it. So the passenger side was done much faster.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1842.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1842.jpg.html)

Anything wrong with this method?

Thanks,

Adam

DodgyTim

03-01-2014, 01:53 PM

For the nuts and bolts, what about DIY zinc electroplating?
It appeals to the mad scientist part of me......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nyp7vtNUQQ

I can see this having its own special bench in the kitchen:)

Santiago

03-01-2014, 03:26 PM

FWIW, most crowfoot extensions are not long enough to significantly change the torque you're applying (think "less than what's already within the wrench's accuracy range"). If you're using a really long extension or are just worried about it in general, you can do the math and calculate what the proper setting should be on the wrench to get the desired torque at the point of pivot using the extension.

On another note (and possibly a stupid question), is there any reason folks are not just cutting an access hole in the firewall for this?

Best,
-j

Canadian818

03-01-2014, 03:44 PM

On another note (and possibly a stupid question), is there any reason folks are not just cutting an access hole in the firewall for this?

Best,
-j

It's a one time torque, to remove the arm later you just remove the bushing mounts and take it all out as a unit.

Santiago

03-01-2014, 03:49 PM

Got it.

On a related note, I found the online calculator (http://www.belknaptools.com/support-library/extensions-calculator/) I've used for using extensions on a torque wrench, it's from Belknap Tools. They also have a desktop app you can download. Kinda cool.

Best,
-j

Canadian818

03-02-2014, 12:00 PM

Been busy in the garage. All my firewall and foot box aluminum is in. I tucked the small piece in the middle in behind the foot rest for a cleaner look. This has been done before, by fate066 I believe. Requires some trimming, but worth it IMO.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1846.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1846.jpg.html)

Not sure why, but my clutch MC is too close to the frame to fit the reservoir. I've ordered a relocation kit from Mike Everson, but it just seems odd to be so much closer than the one in the manual.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1848.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1848.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1849.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1849.jpg.html)

Canadian818

03-02-2014, 12:06 PM

I also installed my steering, including my nrg parts. I'm going to do a small DIY on the hub install soon, but here's how it looks.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1855.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1855.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1857.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1857.jpg.html)

This will make getting in and out much easier for me. I was worried about it making the wheel too close, but its not too bad. I may copy some of Aloha818's mods to shorten the column, but its not uncomfortable so I think I'll just wait for now.

Rasmus

03-02-2014, 12:40 PM

Fancy column. I'm jelly.

Could you get a better shot of your footwell. What you're pointing out is lost in all that black.

Canadian818

03-02-2014, 05:35 PM

Fancy column. I'm jelly.

Could you get a better shot of your footwell. What you're pointing out is lost in all that black.

Sorry, i couldn't get a good pic. With the flash was worse, and my camera isn't as good as I thought. At least not compared to other build threads.

Here's a pic from Fate006's thread showing the small panel mounted with the tabs on the inside.

http://i.imgur.com/vFZJqnHh.jpg

Frank818

03-02-2014, 07:00 PM

Canadian818

03-15-2014, 01:22 AM

I was going to make a new thread on installing a NRG hub adapter, but I just realized that I'm missing a very important picture. So I'll just put it in my build thread and describe what I did that I can't show. If I ever need to take it off again, I'll be sure to get a pic.

I have no intention of using cruise control, and the NRG adapter doesn't make provisions for it on the column. I'm sure it could be done, but if you really want it there I believe the Bell hub adapter re-uses this piece.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1859.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1859.jpg.html)

I chucked it, but kept the center section and screwed it into the back of the NRG hub. This will reset the turn signal once you straiten the wheel, and of course is the only part I didn't take a picture of.

This piece is re-used, but I opened up the center to clear the auto-canceling ring. You can also see where I bolted in a power wire for the horn.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1850.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1850.jpg.html)

Here it is reinstalled. You can see the wire I used for the horn, it rides on the back side of the hub. Once again, this would be clear if I had taken just one more pic, doh!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1852.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1852.jpg.html)

Terrible quality, but you can see the wire preloaded out so it will press against the adapter.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1853.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1853.jpg.html)

Here's the adapter installed.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1854.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1854.jpg.html)

And everything installed minus the horn. There's a small ring/spacer for installing the horn, it didn't come with the wheel so I'll have to make one.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1856.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1856.jpg.html)

And for anyone considering the tilt steering, it also comes with this lock.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1858.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1858.jpg.html)

Canadian818

03-15-2014, 02:04 AM

Picked up these rotors today to go with my nissan Z32 calipers, got a steal of a deal at $53/each. However I should've known that it was too good to be true, measured them when I got home and these are the 296mm x 24mm rotors to be used with subaru 4 pots. I need the 315mm x 30mm, which are $180/each most places however I've been offered a friend deal of $150/each. Thinking about giving in and ordering some DBA 5000 2-piece rotors for the front. It's double the money, but a 12.5" rotor is gonna be really heavy, and maybe I should just do it right the first time. Also, with aluminum 4 piston calipers and 2-piece rotors I'll be in wilwood territory. Still not sure what rotors I'll run in the rear.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1870.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1870.jpg.html)

Tacked in some rails to mount the seat to.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1871.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1871.jpg.html)

Clamped the seat in tight and I'm really impressed with how ridged it is. When it was just sitting in there it felt quite flimsy, but no worries of that now. It barely fits between the side of the car and the center tunnel, and as it is now it will be pushing against both with panels installed. I've heard others mention the steering wheel not being centered to the seat, and now that the seat is fixed and I've got a feel for the cockpit the wheel bugs me. I think I'll be cutting the tunnel tubing tomorrow and moving the seat in an inch. While I would like to leave the passenger seat over to maximize driver room, it would always annoy me that the seat are not centered. So the seats will just touch at the shoulders, but I'm ok with that. Any thoughts?

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1873.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1873.jpg.html)

I was able to get the seat quite a bit back.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1874.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1874.jpg.html)

Once the seat location is set, I'll begin cutting the stock gas tank to fit. I'm also going to move the fill location so the fill tube isn't in the engine bay. But first I'll be installing these.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1875.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1875.jpg.html)

Canadian818

03-15-2014, 02:15 AM

Well now it seems I can't get 2-piece legacy GT rotors. I was sure it was an option, but I just checked DBA and girodisc, nada.

Frank818

03-15-2014, 06:13 AM

5-point harness?

2 or 3in wide?

Canadian818

03-15-2014, 10:03 AM

3 inch

Rasmus

03-15-2014, 10:44 AM

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1873.jpg
An offset of that size would bother me to no end. I'd have to fix it. Quite the over site on FFR's end. Seeing how you can weld, I think moving the center console bars is the best solution. As an added benefit your left arm have more room and bump into the chassis less.

Canadian818

03-15-2014, 11:13 AM

An offset of that size would bother me to no end. I'd have to fix it. Quite the over site on FFR's end. Seeing how you can weld, I think moving the center console bars is the best solution. As an added benefit your left arm have more room and bump into the chassis less.

Thanks Rasmus. I'm about to go out to the garage to start cutting and figured I'd check to see if anyone posted against or in support. It'll be even closer quarters with the passenger, but I'm ok with that, there wont be someone there often. I'll reattach the bars in some way after, but I doubt they offer much rigidity. I'll also be cutting the seat belt brackets off behind the seat so I can wrap the harness around the crossbar.

Adam

Rasmus

03-15-2014, 11:45 AM

Sure, man.

The console bars look like they offer no additional rigidity. They're long, thin, and untriangulated. Plus those 90 degree bends just make it al dente steel. They're qualified to hold up a console and a shifter, not to resist the twisting forces of a race car.

Cut 'em out. Put the seats right. Fab something up for the console

Xusia

03-15-2014, 01:18 PM

Wow. I had no idea the seat was not centered. In my trial fittings, I didn't notice that. I hope it's because the WRX seats are narrower and therefore more centered. Such a offset would bother me badly. I'll be paying attention to that now. And I'm right at the stage where I'm making my seat mounting brackets. Thanks a ton for this insight. :)

On the center tunnel bars, I recall reading that they aren't structural at all. I considered completely removing them and having no center tunnel.

Canadian818

03-15-2014, 01:31 PM

Cut them out, test fitted, much better. The shifter will HAVE to be under mounted now, seats are only 2.5" apart where it would mount. I'll probably have to straiten the shifter handle as well, 1st and 2nd will be too close to my leg. I might try pressing it out and rotating it to the passenger side as 5th and reverse are far less critical. Besides, they can just move! :)

As with everything this tightly engineered, you can't change anything without effecting 3 or 4 mor things. But that's the best part!

nkw8181

03-15-2014, 03:15 PM

what size seat did you get? large ? what size does that cover exactly? I can't find any info vs inseam. do you think the med would have the same problem?

Canadian818

03-15-2014, 03:33 PM

Yeah it's the large. Not sure how the widths differ between sizes. I'm 36-38 waist, 36 in the summer :) so a 38 now and it's snug, but not uncomfortable.

Frank818

03-16-2014, 12:56 PM

You will probably never drive the car in your 38 waist anyway, cuz it's during winter! :)

Canadian818

03-16-2014, 09:55 PM

You will probably never drive the car in your 38 waist anyway, cuz it's during winter! :)

Haha, true enough! Its finally warming up here, today was the first time this year working in the garage with the door open.

Canadian818

03-16-2014, 10:39 PM

Final mock up before drilling holes. I'm really unsure of what to do with the shifter. The manual shows it mounted between the seats, in which case it would have to be under mounted. When I checked out longisland and mechie's threads about how they did it, they mounted it ahead of the seats. Since my seat is so far back, I almost want to mount it ahead of the seats and on top. If they can mount it up there then there must be enough cable length. Still need to modify it though, as I'll be punching myself in the leg for 1st every time.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1885.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1885.jpg.html)

Got the seat support rails welded, and drivers seat bolted in. Measured clearance for the gas tank and started cutting.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1886.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1886.jpg.html)

For anyone wondering, the FFR tank has a baffle/bowl in it. I was planning to weld something in while it was open, but I was pleasantly surprised.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1888.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1888.jpg.html)

I also removed the filler port on the back.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1889.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1889.jpg.html)

Here's the idea.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1890.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1890.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1892.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1892.jpg.html)

Need a little more clearance, then its time to modify the fire wall and fabricate the engine side firewall.

Canadian818

03-16-2014, 10:44 PM

Started mounting my harness. Didn't feel like drilling 9/16" holes, so I'll punch out some brackets tomorrow at work to make my lap and sub belt mounts. Had to remove the seat belt bracket behind the seat in order to wrap the harness. Put the buckle on the bottom to keep the harness at an angle that doesn't have it ride on the seat grommet.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1893.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1893.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1894.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1894.jpg.html)

Rasmus

03-17-2014, 01:18 AM

You cut the console rails? You're a monster. ;)

I'm really unsure of what to do with the shifter.
My plan is to mount my shifter so the knob is close to my right hand when it's at 3 o'clock on the steering wheel without interfering with my steering input. Mounted close. When I need to shift at an auto-x or a rare track day I have to move my hand the least distance to shift and get it right back on the wheel.

http://i.imgur.com/NawhIHi.jpg
Kind of like the WRC cars or NASCAR cars.

Canadian818

03-23-2014, 05:10 PM

I agree Rasmus, no need to have it crazy low.

Can anyone help me with getting the FFR supplied shifter apart? There's a washer that needs to come off, but I have no idea how. I had to walk away before I broke it. I'll take a pic later, so those without a kit can advise too.

Mechie3

03-23-2014, 05:23 PM

Canadian818

03-23-2014, 10:12 PM

Pop the washer with slots off. Either pry it or put it in a press. Pop off the two metal retaining tabs then give the bottom nub of the steel lever a good wack to pop off the plastic cup that was held in place by the clips.

Thanks Mechie, I was timid about the washer. Got rough with it after your post and success! Here's a thought; I'm going to press the ball off tomorrow to rotate the shaft to the passenger side. The ball is centred on the splined section, if I were to put it back higher on the shaft wouldn't it shorten the throw?

Mechie3

03-24-2014, 08:37 AM

It would shorten it. Just make sure you still have enough clearance below (not sure why you wouldn't).

Canadian818

03-24-2014, 09:40 AM

It would shorten it. Just make sure you still have enough clearance below (not sure why you wouldn't).

I'll let you know how it works out. Ball is off, shaft is in the freezer...:p

Frank818

03-24-2014, 09:52 AM

Ball is off, shaft is in the freezer...:p

Jesus, that doesn't sound right at all. lolll

Canadian818

05-10-2014, 01:10 PM

Wow, been awhile since I updated this. Working on brake/clutch hard lines this weekend, and like everyone else, the kit didn't come with enough of the right size lines. Fortunately they're only $5 a line at the local auto parts store. I want to run the lines slightly different, and I'm looking for feedback. In the pic below, I want to run both lines up and over where the green tape is on the outside of the frame. The cross over will be along the engine mounts. Will this interfere with anything further along in the build?

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1905.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1905.jpg.html)

Scargo

05-10-2014, 04:43 PM

Ball is off, shaft is in the freezer...:p Are you Lorena Bobbitt?

On a serious note: I am interested in what you are doing. I don't like the stock routing.

Canadian818

05-10-2014, 06:11 PM

Are you Lorena Bobbitt?

On a serious note: I am interested in what you are doing. I don't like the stock routing.

Haha, nothing of the sort! I'll update the thread tonight or tomorrow with pics of the shifter and gas tank/firewall mods. I just got back from the store with more lines so I'm going to go ahead and mount them as discussed above. Really don't like the idea of having brake line so close to a header/manifold.

Scargo

05-10-2014, 06:29 PM

Yea! That (routing near the exhaust) was a biggie for me. Where will you T it? I was thinking of somewhere in front of the gas tank area.

Canadian818

05-10-2014, 06:41 PM

I'll post pics if it works out, :)

Plan is to tee by the drivers rear upper shock mount, also going to end the clutch line there and use a longer braided hose to the tranny.

Canadian818

05-11-2014, 11:49 PM

Finished routing all my hard lines. Everything is just cleco'd in place, but I don't see reason to not go ahead and rivet everything. I'll add a few more p-clamps.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1906.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1906.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1907.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1907.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1908.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1908.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1909.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1909.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1910.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1910.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1911.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1911.jpg.html)

My Nissan 300zx aluminum calipers showed up, along with the brackets from KNS. Looks like I'm going to need larger rotors! Those are the 2.5i rotors, about an inch smaller than the Legacy GT 315x30mm rotors I need to order. I'll weight everything later when I have the front rotors, but the massive (in comparison) aluminum 4 pots seem to weigh about the same as the oem cast 2 piston sliders.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1904.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1904.jpg.html)

The back will be more difficult. The Nissan 2 pot rears are slightly different than the wrx ones. They'll mount to wrx backing plates but the pad will sit a few mm off the edge of the rotor. It seems a few people have run it like this and I can't find any ill reports, however I'm going to try to avoid it. I don't have wrx backing plates, so I'll attempt to make a adapter like the front. If that doesn't work, I'll get the wrx backing plates and slot/weld the mounting holes to move the caliper in over the rotor.

FFRSpec72

05-12-2014, 04:16 AM

Couple of questions on the hard lines:

1. I did not see the clutch hard line, was this also run
2. Also any reason not to run the bias to cockpit area so you can adjust from there ?
3. I did not see where you split the rear lines for each side, also any reason not to run them down the center console area and then tee near gas tank? Seems where you have it on the side is where the aluminum panels go (at least the R has these side aluminum panels).
4. Have any pics of where you mounted the tabs for hardline to flex line ?

Canadian818

05-12-2014, 06:45 AM

1. In the second pic, the line on the right is for the clutch. Also the top line in the third pic.

2. I don't expect to be adjusting the bias often, dial it in once, tweak it on occasion. Wilwood makes a nice cable adapted knob for mounting in the cab, I believe CPlaven has one in his build thread. I need to get some seat time, only done auto x, and that was 9 years ago. I'd rather not have knobs to fiddle with, at least for now.

3. In the fourth pic, just above the coilover is the rear tee. All the aluminum panels on the S are inside the cockpit. You could go down the tunnel and split at the tank, probably a little more work though. I no longer have a centre tunnel, for now anyway, and my gas tank/firewall/seat area is already way too tight.

4. I'll take some pics of the flex line mounts tonight.

Canadian818

05-12-2014, 09:34 PM

Here's the pics you requested tony. The front lines will have just enough slack at full lock under full droop once clamped to the upright, so I'm happy with the location.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1912.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1912.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1913.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1913.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1914.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1914.jpg.html)

Flex lines are Goodridge from KNS Brakes, a supporting vender, great to deal with.

Canadian818

05-12-2014, 09:51 PM

My thread seems overly pic heavy. IMO its the best way to do a build thread. I think its the lack of conversation that usually spreads out threads, but most of what I'm posting is either already sorted from past threads, or one off stuff no one will be copying.

Removed my rear dust shields to start fitting the wrx rotor and Nissan caliper.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1918.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1918.jpg.html)

The rotor is quite bigger/wider and is vented vs the 2.5i rotor. Its actually about the same size as the OEM front.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1920.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1920.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1922.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1922.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1921.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1921.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1923.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1923.jpg.html)

Canadian818

05-12-2014, 10:06 PM

Few things I've done in the past month that I forgot to update...

Fabricated some harness and seat mounts

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1917.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1917.jpg.html)

Made this shifter mount using 14ga steel and 1.5" dimple die. Also pulled the shifter apart and rotated the shaft so I'm not punching my leg for 1st.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1915.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1915.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1916.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1916.jpg.html)

TIG welded up the gas tank. Its notched to allow the seats to move back another inch, and I relocated the fill tube so its no longer near the exhaust. I checked it with dye penetrate, waiting to bolt it in and test fit everything before sloshing around some POR tank sealer and painting the outside.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1901.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1901.jpg.html)

Modified firewall welded as well. It will sit lower on the top crossbar, and still needs to be notched for the harnesses.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1902.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1902.jpg.html)

Its been mentioned a few times now that most front frame sections don't line up with the brackets. I used some flat washers equally on both sides as spacers, everything seems tight and square.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1899.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1899.jpg.html)

Tamra

05-16-2014, 02:14 PM

AZPete

05-16-2014, 05:20 PM

At first, I mounted the tabs that hold the front flexible brake lines to the outside of the frame - as shown in the manual and as you did. Later I discovered that an aluminum panel goes in the INSIDE of the frame so I had to cut a notch in the panel for the hard brake line - but that looked bad so I redid it all and re-mounted the metal tabs on the inside of the frame so the tab is on the panel with no extra hole. Let me know if you need a photo to show what I mean.

Frank818

05-16-2014, 07:56 PM

Well looks like you're a metalmaker. lolll
Nice job.

Canadian818

05-16-2014, 08:37 PM

Canadian818

05-16-2014, 08:55 PM

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what made you decide to go with the donor you picked? I admire your skills in getting everything to work! How many hours do you think you have into it to date? Any estimates on when you think you'll complete the build?

The donor was for lack of options, just not many to choose from here. I also didn't want to pay for a wrx or sti as my plan is still to use an H6. I enjoy the fab work, a lot more than the rivets and bolts thats for sure.

I have no idea how many hours, and have no intention of counting them. I do a lot of what I like to call "figuring", ie; staring at the car and coming up with ideas, or how to fix mistakes. And there's a TV in the garage, so I'll often find myself standing up holding tools like a zombie with tunnel vision. Also my daughter takes advantage of me being in the garage, she sees it as me outside so shes able to go ride her bike which always involves me some how. So my # of hours spent in the garage is about 3x the hours spent actually doing focused work.

The car will be on the road first thing next spring, with any luck a month early just waiting on weather. I would like to go kart before snow this fall. I have yet to order an engine or ecu/harness, funds are being redirected into a money making project for now. So I'm going to start mounting the body before the engine, pretty sure I'll be the first to do so. Then I'll finish the bike project so I can have my work bench back. I'm enjoying the build, and would have to halfa$$ it to put it on the road this summer. But I plan to be testing/tuning at the first events/track days of 2015.

Xusia

05-17-2014, 11:28 AM

I do a lot of what I like to call "figuring", ie; staring at the car and coming up with ideas, or how to fix mistakes.

Yep. I do a lot of that too! I really need to start doing more actual work...

Canadian818

05-17-2014, 08:57 PM

Not having much success with my brakes. Have to vent so I can move on and get something productive done.

For the rear, there's no way to make a bracket off the old mounting holes. I could weld a bracket on, but it would only be my weld holding it there, and as confident/competent as I am, there's just too much cyclic loading and heating in that area. So I'll bite the bullet and pick up some WRX backing plates and modify the holes slightly to fit the pad perfectly on the rotor. According to to a forum, they're $50/each. While I'm at it, I might as well order some ARP wheel studs.

The front however we're supposed to be simple bolt on. I bought caliper brackets from KNS, and after weeks of searching (not intensely I might add) for Legacy GT 315mm x 30mm rotors I found some locally today. Bolted everything up, and the pad sits 8mm off the rotor. Now I read "online" that when using GTR calipers you need to use STI rotors which are 324mm. I also read "online" that the only aluminum Nissan 4 piston calipers were off the 300zx. So I'm assuming my calipers are off some JDM variant, as they do a lot of limited edition models we know nothing about. I'll do a search and make sure the brembo's are 324x30mm, and send an email to KNS for their feedback. Something tells me I won't find those rotors for $96/each....

I'll post a pic later, gotta get something accomplished before I head in.

Canadian818

05-18-2014, 01:08 AM

So here's the LGT 315mm rotors...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1925.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1925.jpg.html)

And the pad over hang I was talking about...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1930.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1930.jpg.html)

Quick google search and it seems '04 STI rotors are 326x30mm with 5x100 bolt pattern. I'm going to return the LGT rotors and begin the search for those.

Laid out some eastwood sound barrier and bolted in the gas tank so I could fit the firewall.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1931.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1931.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1932.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1932.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1933.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1933.jpg.html)

Need to install some rivnuts, notch for the harness', and do a final test fit with the seat before I can paint everything. Need to figure out a handbrake mount, tunnel, and will probably need to open up the slot above the tank later for wiring, etc. Not nearly as much done as I had hoped, but progress is progress...

Triathletedave

06-04-2014, 03:45 PM

Canadian818

06-04-2014, 08:03 PM

Are you happy with the layout on the rear section of the clutch line? I did it the was the book recommended, but I don't like it. I may buy more hard line and start over. Your routing looks solid, and should not get in the way.

I think it's the best place, and run a longer SS line. This way you can remove the engine without having to bleed the system. It just made sense to route it with the brake line, which went up and over to avoid the exhaust.

Canadian818

12-18-2014, 12:02 AM

So no updates for over 6 months, wow, has it been that long? I finished fitting all the frame mounted aluminum and painted it in July, and all the panels are still in the boxes I brought them home in. A week before my last update I started my own contracting company and spent the next few months getting it going while staying at my last job. So 70hrs/week all summer. Now I'm down to 60/hrs a week with about 3hrs/day of commuting. I'm tired. I knew I'd have some free time during the holidays to get started back at it, so about a month ago I started pricing out engines. For the past year I've been set on a EZ36 with a AEM Infinity ECU, stock to start, but eventually turbo. I was nervous about the lack of aftermarket support, but was determined to be different.

Then the "rotary 818" thread was bumped up, and I hadn't seen it before. I've always had an interest in the rotary, and dreamed of owning a FD3S for a long time. I did enough research to determine that it "should" fit, found a jdm engine importer with a decent reputation, and ordered a 13B-REW.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1941.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1941.jpg.html)

Here it is upon arrival. Extremely clean for a 15-20 year old wankel. I'm not sure the year, the importer said its "a newer one with the 16bit ecu", but i've yet to confirm anything.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1940.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1940.jpg.html)

Lots of crap hanging off this thing. Lots to remove. The inner belt driving the alternator, water pump, and air pump was removed to gain access to the serial number as I required it for the receipt. Just in case its needed when registering it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1943.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1943.jpg.html)

Removed the air pump (emissions), power steering, and A/C. I'll be ordering some pulley's, including a single belt crank pulley and a idler pulley to route the belt so the water pump gets enough belt around it. There's still lots to be removed, more emissions crap, and a bunch of vacuum lines. My eventual plan is to run a single twin scroll EFR turbo, however they're not cheap, so if the stock twins fit the chassis then I'll run them for now, at least until I know if the engine is in need of a rebuild. However, I had this little gem awaiting me when I pulled off the down pipe...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1942.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1942.jpg.html)

Oh joy. It was just laying there. The rear turbo seems fine, no shaft play, so I'll probably see if I can find a replacement on ebay. Not to sure how it broke, worst case is a apex seal broke and the debris got in the turbo. I will probably pull the entire manifold off and see what can been seen inside the housings. But for now it stays on, as fitting the engine and trans together and mounting it in the 818 are my priorities. This weekend I'll separate the mazda 5spd and start laying out a plan for an adapter plate.

Tamra

12-18-2014, 01:09 AM

Can't wait to see this... love the rotary engine's revving ability. I hope it works out for you! I will be following this build for sure. Just please try not to wait 6 months between updates!

metalmaker12

12-18-2014, 06:47 AM

Very cool setup man, I like it very much

Frank818

12-18-2014, 07:58 AM

Nice job Adam, but 6 months that's too long. :) Though I understand 70h/week is a lot! You were still somewhat active on the forum so it's not that bad.

70h/week during summer is bad, as it's the only time to take advantage of the warmer weather (car driving, for instance). In Canada (and especially your north west for US people and mid west for us Canadians), what on earth can we do during winter besides watching hockey and building an 818? lolll

Good pioneer choice on the rotary, hopefully it'll fit better than my VR6. :)

STiPWRD

12-18-2014, 09:30 AM

Very cool idea! Will you be starting a thread called "simplifying the 13B"??

That motor does look very clean, hopefully it's as nice on the inside as it is on the outside. Good luck on designing the adapter plate for the trans, that will be an interesting challenge. Not sure if you use CAD software but that might be a big help.

Canadian818

12-19-2014, 12:38 AM

Thanks everyone.

Will you be starting a thread called "simplifying the 13B"??

There's so much info online, this engine was sold over 20 years ago. I'll answer any questions, and try to post as much detail as possible. But until I can make this all work, I won't bother with detailed threads on the 13b.

Good luck on designing the adapter plate for the trans, that will be an interesting challenge. Not sure if you use CAD software but that might be a big help.

Not sure if I'm the right man for the job, but I'll give it a shot. If all else fails then I'll send it to the professionals. No CAD, a shop I do some work for just got a program called "Inventor" and will be getting a cnc mill, so once I have a prototype I may ask him to help me make a few more. I watched a video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuprPEhF2Ic) on YouTube about making an adapter for a toyota and it seemed simple enough.

This doesn't help me with the clutch/flywheel issues, but I found a interesting thread of a guy trying to make a AWD RX7 with the same combo. Unfortunately he stopped updating his thread (http://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/my-project-impreza-awd-rotary-881128/). He goes into a lot of detail, and gives me a starting point. He concluded that the adapter would probably have to be 1" thick as the bell housing is so small on the subie trans. RE-Amemiya put a 3-rotor 20b mated to a 5mt in a Lotus Europa and his adapter appears to confirm this.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/RE-Amemiya-Europa-31.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/RE-Amemiya-Europa-31.jpg.html)

Spent a little time in the garage tonight, got home early. Managed to get the trans separated from the engine, no easy task if you take the brute approach. There's a "hidden" bolt tucked away below the starter housing. Then you get it off an inch, which is a small victory in itself, only to have to resort to the forums and find out if you remove a inspection plate and pry the "ring clip thingy" towards the engine it all releases and just slides off. Another one of those jobs that took 2hrs the first time and would take 2mins next time. I also stripped the back off the subie trans, and mounted the ffr plate. I realized the oem bolts are too long and they're must be supplied bolts in the pile of hardware on my workbench, one look at the workbench and I decided to call it a night. I need to get a 54mm socket on saturday to remove the mazda flywheel, so thats it for a few days.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1945.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1945.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1946.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1946.jpg.html)

Canadian818

12-21-2014, 10:43 AM

Small update, no pics. I've found an adapter kit, includes flywheel. Unfortunately it costs about half of what the engine cost. It's 800AUD +400AUD for shipping. I'll bite the bullet and order it, but first I'll make a spacer out of wood to mock up the engine/trans before spending anymore on it. I also ordered some wrx rear brake backing plates. Is it bad that I had to re-read my own build thread to see where I left off?

Frank818

12-22-2014, 07:55 AM

That is expensive indeed, but the problem with these adapters is that they are mandatory! And not too many choices around...

Canadian818

01-02-2015, 01:07 AM

Well the holidays went by too quick, finally got to work in the garage today. I borrowed this bad boy to get the flywheel nut off the 13b. Figured while I was at it I would go ahead and install the 2wd conversion piece in.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1949.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1949.jpg.html)

For my non-818 friends and family reading, all the stuff on the floor is replaced with the piece in my hand making it 2wd.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1947.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1947.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1948.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1948.jpg.html)

Now to stick these together.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1950.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1950.jpg.html)

I drilled a center hole, the dowel hole, and then traced out the outside and holes. Also marked a center line.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1953.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1953.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1952.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1952.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1955.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1955.jpg.html)

I drilled the center larger, flipped the template over and marked out the engine side in a different color. I'll transfer it to wood tomorrow night. Hope to have it bolted together with the temporary spacer this weekend.

Canadian818

01-04-2015, 10:39 PM

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1957.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1957.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1963.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1963.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1964.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1964.jpg.html)

So it fits! My spacer is 1" thick, which should be close to the Aussie one I'll be purchasing. A few mods will be required to get it exactly where I want it. The thermostat housing had to be removed, I'll just put a 90 on it and mount a separate tank. I hacked off some of the lower coolant line as well, so another weld will be required there. The crank pulley turned to out to be a 2 piece so I was able to remove the outer belt ring and with the transmission mount in its slot it clears the frame. Lots of room for the twin turbos, however the lower wastegate will need to be slightly modified to clear the frame. Obviously a custom downpipe would be required, but based on the holding up the oem one I'd expect just modifying a aftermarket one would be easy enough.

Next step is to remove the engine, remove the turbos/manifold (probably going single vs replacing broken one), and the front lifting mount. I want to lift the engine another inch so its more square to the frame, and its in the way. It's also in the worst possible location, and my frame has the scars to prove it. The oil filler neck has to come off as well, it lines up with the top cross bar and also won't fit with my planned GM throttle body.

Hindsight

01-04-2015, 11:57 PM

Great progress. Cant wait to see it run.

Harley818

01-05-2015, 01:46 AM

Hey Adam,

Not sure if you noticed but Bob & Cincy pointed out to me that I didn't take out the bearing race from the upper shaft of the back of the trans.
Your photo in post 123, 3rd photo.... looks a little blurry, but it appears that the bearing race may still be in place.

See attached link for Photo.
I left mine in..... I see you now have yours buttoned up already..... but you might want to check. Mine was a "loose" fit and would have fallen out at some point.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35615&d=1415232132

Canadian818

01-05-2015, 07:21 AM

Frank818

01-05-2015, 09:13 AM

So it fits!

Great!! You made it much quicker than I did with my VR6, hopefully the rest will go as well! 2 turbos will be awesome. :)

Canadian818

01-05-2015, 09:54 PM

No pictures tonight, but news and progress. Pulled the motor back out, and removed the OEM twin turbos and manifold. It's safe to say that'll never be going back on. Holy crap those manifolds are heavy. I'll get some bathroom scale weights of what I've taken off this motor soon. With the manifold removed I was able to inspect the internals (try that on your piston engines, lol), and there's no sign of damage what so ever. I'm able to crank the engine with a 3/8" ratchet easily, looked at all rotor faces and 6 apex seals. With each seal reaching the exhaust port I got a "puff" and it was slightly harder to spin as each rotor was compressing. Pretty neat design! I can't be certian that the compression will be great, but it's safe to say the car was parked due to the busted turbo and not catastrophic engine failure.

I will almost certainly be going single turbo now, and probably a twin scroll. I'd like to run a new BW EFR, but I'm not sure I want to dump 2k+ on the turbo alone. I might cheap out and experiment with some ebay turbos. I've actually be doing some reading on people buying 2-300$ Chinese GT35's and swapping out the centre sections for real ball bearing ones (5-600$) with good results. I have some time to decide, lots to do.

Finally heard back from my Aussie connection, turns out the adapter is 1.5" thick. I'll soon do some trimming and put the engine back in to see if I can find another 1/2". Can anyone think of a reason why the tranny couldn't be back another 1/2" besides bumper clearance?

Scargo

01-06-2015, 06:35 AM

From what I was told by a guy using the Chinese turbos (in a twin-turbo high-performance track car, no less, not unlike the 818) is that they are truly throw-away turbos that don't last long. I would worry about something disintegrating and getting into the motor. I have two EFR turbos and may get one for the 818.

Frank818

01-06-2015, 08:18 AM

Finally heard back from my Aussie connection, turns out the adapter is 1.5" thick. I'll soon do some trimming and put the engine back in to see if I can find another 1/2". Can anyone think of a reason why the tranny couldn't be back another 1/2" besides bumper clearance?

Half an inch? That's nothing! You could go more backwards. I can't recall where your axles are with your "wrong" 1" thick plate, but if they are in normal location, half an inch back is baby talk. :)

Don't let that spoil your rotary build! :)

Niburu

02-13-2015, 10:06 AM

I am soooo subscribe to this thread!

Adam is the adapter 1.5" thick so the friction plate and clutch are at the correct distance from each other?

Frank818

02-13-2015, 12:03 PM

Yeah Adam, been a while without updates, I know you work something like 70h/week, but now over a month, would be cool to know where you're at.

Wayne Presley

03-03-2015, 05:08 PM

Adam, where did you get the adapter?

Cbus

03-20-2015, 08:16 PM

Subscribed to your thread. I'll also be doing a rotary 818. Been into rotaries for 18 years. Looks like
Your doing great! Thanks for sharing your build! :)

Canadian818

03-20-2015, 09:46 PM

Sorry guys, been working 70-80hrs a week since jan 6th. I've only spent a few hours in the garage over the past few months. I've been working on prepping the engine to be reinstalled and make some mounts. I have block off plates for all the unwanted emmisions equipment, and an idler pully to replace the air pump. I'm also replacing the Mazda three plate and two plate secondary throttle bodies with a new GM 90mm drive by wire throttle body using a full function engineering adapter. I'll have the transmission adapter soon, if it works, I'll post all the details. I'm probably going to make some steel solid engine mounts, with whatever I can weld together in the garage and then give it to my buddy to CNC something in aluminum. I'm hoping to be able to use the mounting flanges on the car, so then I can offer some mounts.

The job I'm on will be ending soon, and it's not a great time to find work in the oil and gas industry. It'll be bittersweet, I'll get a lot done on the car, but might have to put off some purchases like wheels/tires and ecu. Either way, expect regular updates in about a month. Thanks for the interest!

Also, if any mods read this, is there a way to change my thread title to "Adam's 13b Rotary Powered Canadian 818-SR"? Thanks.

Cbus

03-20-2015, 09:55 PM

Cool, thanks for the update Adam! :)

Wayne Presley

03-21-2015, 04:53 AM

Also, if any mods read this, is there a way to change my thread title to "Adam's 13b Rotary Powered Canadian 818-SR"? Thanks.

Like this?

Canadian818

03-21-2015, 06:12 AM

Like this?

Thanks Wayne

Canadian818

04-02-2015, 12:19 AM

So after 17 days in a row working, the weather was bad enough to get an afternoon off so I headed home to the garage. Actually I stopped on the way home and bought some tools, its an addiction, I have a number of tools in the garage unopened. My name is Adam, and I have a problem.

So as always, I come with pictures. Some of these are very similar to my last pics, however with most of the wiring and emissions block off plates installed its much easier to see the clearances.

Had to do more trimming on the cast coolant tube.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1965.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1965.jpg.html)

Its now a clean cut out of the way, I'll weld a 90deg elbow on it pointing strait out from the engine. The little contraption below with wires and hoses going to it is the OMP(oil metering pump), it injects oil from the oil pan into the combustion chamber for lubrication. I'm pretty sure I'll be deleting it and pre-mixing with 2-stroke oil instead. Its a fairly common practice in the rotary world, and guarantees constant lubrication.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1966.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1966.jpg.html)

Here you can see the Pinenapple Racing idler pulley I installed. With the air pump removed its needed to maintain enough belt coverage on the water pump to prevent slippage at high RPM. I mounted a blank flange to the water pump that I'll be welding an elbow to, and trimmed the lifting lug off the alternator bracket.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1968.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1968.jpg.html)

In place, transmission mount bolted in and resting the oil pan on some blocks of wood. As you can see, lots of room to work with. Not sure where I'll mount the turbo yet, either low on the side of the engine, or back by the transmission. I'm leaning towards the back, it'll give me more room to route the wastegate dumps back in. Will also make the charge pipes shorter as the intercooler will be on the drivers side.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1975.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1975.jpg.html)

Front pic, water pump pipe might have to go 180deg up and over the top, or I'll have to re-modify my firewall.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1973.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1973.jpg.html)

Without unwrapping the body work, I'm confident that it'll clear if I keep it below the bars.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1980.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1980.jpg.html)

Canadian818

04-02-2015, 12:38 AM

So as the engine sits its as low as the factory mounts will allow, with the oil pan still 1" above the floor. However its leaning forward about 8 degrees. I'm really not sure how critical the engine being level is. I'd imagine where the oil pickup is and pan design play a part in all that. I could mount the engine higher, but I'll probably run into body issues so I'm thinking I'll lower the transmission to correct the angle. By redesigning a mount, either solid, or poly, I should be able to drop it an inch.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1971.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1971.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1976.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1976.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1977.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1977.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1978.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1978.jpg.html)

Can anyone think of a reason I can't cut off this little nub on the transmission that sits just above the "X" in the frame?

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1979.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1979.jpg.html)

I'm relieved my GM 90mm throttle body clears.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1981.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1981.jpg.html)

Any feedback is welcome, this is all new to me. The clearances are tight, and space is so limited for the engine mounts that I think it has to be solid mounts unless I hack off the frame mounts. I have friday off, so I hope to have some mounts fabricated then. I'll also have some weights on what I've taken off the engine, my guess is +50lbs including the twin turbo setup.

Scargo

04-02-2015, 07:14 AM

STiPWRD

04-02-2015, 07:26 AM

Excellent progress!

Can anyone think of a reason I can't cut off this little nub on the transmission that sits just above the "X" in the frame?
If you ever plan on taking the transmission apart, those nubs are a convenient place for hammering the case apart. But other than that, you should be fine with shaving them off.

Any feedback is welcome, this is all new to me. The clearances are tight, and space is so limited for the engine mounts that I think it has to be solid mounts unless I hack off the frame mounts.
Personally, I'd hack off the existing mounts and definitely make brackets that utilize some sort of vibration isolation in the mounts (non-solid). Without that, the engine will be transmitting all sorts of vibration and torque spikes into the frame, bolts, and other components. Just more wear and tear on everything.

Canadian818

04-02-2015, 08:15 AM

Cool stuff! Don't know if it's been asked but do you see a significant weight savings by going with the rotary? How do they compare? Can you develop more or less torque than a Subie? I'm thinking of the capabilities of the five-speed.

Stock for stock I believe the 13b and EJ's are very close in weight, however there's just so much I've taken off. I'll weight everything I took off soon, and the engine once I seperate it to install the adapter. Power delivery/torque very much depends on the turbo. I'm seriously considering one of the smaller BW S300's, which at low boost will put me in the 3-350 range. I completely expect to destroy this transmission, but I want to get a feel for the car and shift points at the local track. I also want too see what kind of abuse Jeff's built 5spd can handle and the verity of lsds to be tested before deciding on what to use.

Tamra

04-02-2015, 01:55 PM

We have the BW S200SX, 51mm (twin scroll), and put down 310whp at 15psi for a break in tune. They are really incredible turbos. One paired with a rotary would be awesome.

Frank818

04-03-2015, 06:28 PM

Wow, it fits great! You are such a lucky guy. Tight up front, like me. But so much space on the sides! You can fit a pair of the world biggest car turbos! And have power starting at 7k. lolll

I'd cut off those engine mount brackets and make your own. Takes time, but you can fit the engine exactly like you need. And that is worth a lot more than time, I can tell ya that...

Scargo

04-03-2015, 07:09 PM

Agree with Frank.

Canadian818

04-06-2015, 11:37 PM

So I spent a few hours in the garage today, some progress.

This is as low as "practical" IMO for the 13b. I removed most of the chassis mounts and removed the rubber from the mazda mounts and installed them on the engine. The engine mounts are currently sitting on whats left of the chassis mount. The engine is within 1 degree of level side to side, and tilted 3 degrees forward. The pickup sits towards the front, so I figured some forward tilt is ok. I've also removed the previously mentioned "nub" on the bottom of the tranny and the transmission chassis mounting plate.

Disclaimer; You DO NOT need to cut any mounts to fit this engine. As you can see there is more than enough room to go a few inches higher, use an OEM tranny mount and either custom engine mounts or a wedge of rubber/urethane. I however like to take the path no one bothers to travel and am attempting to mount the engine/transmission as low as possible.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1984.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1984.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1985.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1985.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1988.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1988.jpg.html)

My oil pan is dented, and leaking. This is common with these, the bottom of the engine is open and flexes causing leaks. Most purchase a "oil pan brace" which is just a piece of steel or aluminum the same size as the gasket but between 5-10mm thick and "supports" the pan/engine. However, at the price of a new pan plus a brace I'm close enough to justify an Excessive cast aluminum oil pan. It takes an extra quart of oil and it is quite a bit thicker than the oem stamped steel pan. I'm going to order one this week, along with the pulley I should've ordered, it'll allow me to fit a elbow on the water pump facing down and out instead of up and around.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/powdercoatedpan3a.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/powdercoatedpan3a.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/btpulley1thumb.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/btpulley1thumb.jpg.html)

I picked up a digital level, so now I know how out my engine/transmission "plate" is. So I'll wait to finish my mounts until everything as arrived. In the meantime, I've been putting off swapping my wheel studs.

Speedy G

04-07-2015, 08:17 PM

Man, I have engine envy, I'd forgotten about 13b's. You can make so much hp with that motor... My uncle had it tuned to over 500hp on pump gas with a single turbo. Redline was easily around 9000 rpm. I remember the first time I drove it I thought the speedo was in kph but it was really in mph, so I was doing 120mph and wondering why it felt so fast. That's how fast the thing accelerated. Very little vibration at high rpm. We took the rpm limiter off so the only way you knew it was over the limit was because there was a beep at 9000rpm.

Nice build! Definitely go single turbo. On this platform, even no boost will be alright. You could design it like an S2000 torque curve. Below 6000 rpm feels like a civic. Above it, feels like all hell broke loose. That would be extremely daily driveable. The car was extremely reliable and all we did was beat on it. The only thing that ever happened is that one of the 1000cc injectors got loose (not good but no fire, luckily).

Canadian818

05-03-2015, 10:06 PM

Thanks Speedy G, I'm pretty excited about the rotary. I've never even driven a rotary powered car, so I have no idea what I'm in for. Ever since the first fast and the furious where they do the CGI thing through the engine and I was like WTF is that, I've been hooked. A lot of punch in a very little package. However its terrible for the environment, extremely loud, and gets terrible mileage, oh well..."Race Car!"

Canadian818

05-03-2015, 11:08 PM

It's HERE!!!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1999.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1999.jpg.html)

Finally have my engine adapter. At first I was a little disappointing, seeing beautiful billet CNC'd adapters, I assumed I was getting a similar product for the money paid. It was clearly made on a mill, however the outside ring is really rough, almost like it was done by a grinding stone but the groves are perfectly linear. Also the aluminum seems to be of poor grade, there's a small "fisher" or "void" on the outside edge. I need to go to my buddy's shop tomorrow to do some aluminum welding, so I'll fill it. He might be able to machine the outside edge smooth, otherwise I'll use a belt sander.

The flywheel is kinda in the picture, its the same diameter as my subaru one, however I need to locate a different size clutch combo. i need a 225mm disc but with a smaller clutch cover with a bolt center measureing 254mm versus my oem 268mm. Might need A JDM clutch. more details here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17648-Help-with-clutch-selection&p=197119#post197119).

Made a phenolic spacer for my intake manifold. It's 3/4" thick, and separates the upper and lower manifolds. It's upstream of the injectors.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1994.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1994.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1995.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1995.jpg.html)

I did some porting on the intake manifold, so much so that I'll need to do a little welding in a few spots. I was expecting to, in order to achieve what I wanted to. All of this is because I'm going from the OEM mazda 3x45mm throttle body to the GM 90mm. I just traced to adapter and started porting. I think it should help a little.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1991.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1991.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1993.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1993.jpg.html)

Looky what I found in the oil pan...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1989.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1989.jpg.html)

No idea what its from, some filings too. Hopefully its just turbo bits from the broken turbo. Something tells me a engine rebuild is in my near future, dispite the seals/rotors/housings looking good.

Sorry about the picture quality, its a good camera but it sucks on close ups. I need to play with its settings.

I have some parts coming this week, lots of progress soon.

Niburu

06-15-2015, 04:38 PM

post more dammit man

Mechie3

06-15-2015, 05:25 PM

Finally have my engine adapter. At first I was a little disappointing, seeing beautiful billet CNC'd adapters, I assumed I was getting a similar product for the money paid. It was clearly made on a mill, however the outside ring is really rough, almost like it was done by a grinding stone but the groves are perfectly linear. Also the aluminum seems to be of poor grade, there's a small "fisher" or "void" on the outside edge. I need to go to my buddy's shop tomorrow to do some aluminum welding, so I'll fill it. He might be able to machine the outside edge smooth, otherwise I'll use a belt sander.

My money says laser or plasma cut. A lot of my parts are laser cut for production since if they were cnc'd my cost would be the same as what I charge for lasered pieces. I don't get anything thicker than 1/4" laser cut since the quality drops off quickly. 1/4" and under and my tumbler can remove most of the lines you're talking about.

Canadian818

07-01-2015, 12:07 AM

It took quite awhile to get here. Very little time has been spent on the car. I recently purchased the welding truck I was renting, and most of my time off between jobs was getting it in tip top shape. Put on 6 new tires, replaced a few sensors, shocks, brakes, axle seals, steering links, made a intake, installed much needed Hid's, changed all fluids/filters, and added a boost gauge. Also did some tweaking and modifying of the welding skid. She's an old girl, 358k Kms (222k Miles), but the 7.3's are tough.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/83D5A31D-F1E2-416B-87CA-29449E986F7A.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/83D5A31D-F1E2-416B-87CA-29449E986F7A.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/FD5E7D3C-0C19-410D-8C24-DCC213F793E4.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/FD5E7D3C-0C19-410D-8C24-DCC213F793E4.jpg.html)

Back to the 818...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2001.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2001.jpg.html)

I had the adapter plate outer edge machined smooth, looks much better now. I gave up trying to find a clutch to match the holes in the flywheel, all I could find was a 90's FWD clutch that was pull type which wouldn't work. So I had the dowel pins removed, new holes drilled and tapped and new dowel pins installed so my OEM clutch could be installed. I don't intend to run this clutch for long, but I want to make sure everything works before wrecking a $500 HD clutch.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2006.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2006.jpg.html)

It felt so good sliding on the transmission. The dowel pin and input shaft aligned perfectly and it just fell in place, effortlessly. Very rewarding. In this pic you can also see my Racing Beat stainless steel exhaust flange. Not sure when I'll get to building a manifold, but I knew I'd need it eventually so I added it to an order.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2004.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2004.jpg.html)

Small issue with the starter, it doesn't fit. You can see the small hole for the gear to fit, and the massive housing that surrounds my 06 starter. A little searching on rock auto has revealed that a early 90's EJ22 manual starter should work. I'll pick one up tomorrow.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2005.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2005.jpg.html)

Canadian818

07-01-2015, 12:20 AM

Here you can see my new pulley setup. Underdriven crank pulley, pineapple racing BT idler pulley, and a new water pump. My coolant adapter is a little close to the frame. It's only welded on the inside, so it'd be easy to rotate it if need be. I'll wait until my motor mounts are done before I decide.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2008.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2008.jpg.html)

This is how I modified my water pump housing for the other line. It routes nicely under the crank, but I had to delete the oil metering pump. I was probably going to anyway, it makes me nervous not knowing if its working properly, so I'll be running 2 stroke oil in the tank. This will also allow me to run synthetic oil in the engine.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2009.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2009.jpg.html)

Flamshackle

07-01-2015, 02:24 AM

Frank818

07-01-2015, 07:36 PM

Did you also purchase the reservoir and full of fuel at the same time? Could be handy for... uhm, a lifetime!!!! lolll

It is a lot of work fitting a non-WRX engine, hey? But the finished product will be well worth it!
Your engine is so small, it doesn't take much space, it's incredible!

I don't understand your synthetic oil thing, you can run synthetic any time, no need to perform mods, what's different about the rotary then?

Wayne Presley

07-01-2015, 09:13 PM

A rotary engine is essentially a 2 stroke motor so it injects a small quantity of oil in the intake charge to lubricate the rotors and apex seals. The synthetic motor oil doesn't burn like a dino oil

metalmaker12

07-01-2015, 09:34 PM

Love it brother, good work. Now I gotta fit an s2000 setup

Canadian818

07-02-2015, 01:19 AM

A rotary engine is essentially a 2 stroke motor so it injects a small quantity of oil in the intake charge to lubricate the rotors and apex seals. The synthetic motor oil doesn't burn like a dino oil

What he said. However now I'm not injecting oil from the pan into the engine so I can run synthetic. The combustion chamber will be lubricated by oil mixed in the fuel. This is what Mazda did with their rotary race engines back in the day. It's just not practical for daily drivers, and then there's the smell, lol.

Canadian818

07-02-2015, 01:22 AM

Love it brother, good work. Now I gotta fit an s2000 setup

Thanks! That s2k engine would be sweet in an 818. I'd assume it's too long to fit without serious modifications though.

Exidous

07-02-2015, 03:49 PM

Before you get too far in, I'd suggest you get the turbos off and look into the exhaust ports and inspect the apex seals and anything else you can see.

I would honestly consider saying twin turbo. Have a set upgraded by bnr supercars. Keep the sequential setup. You will LOVE the low end tq. It's certainly complicated but in a light car will be a ton of fun. The bnr's are easily capable of 350+whp. Near 400 comfortable. More with E85.

FYI I've owned FD's for 9 years. :-) cool build!

16bit ecu and the crossover pipe make me think it's a 99 plus motor.

Canadian818

07-02-2015, 09:37 PM

Turbos are off and never going back on. IMO way to heavy, and low end torque is of no interest to me. I want a good mid range, track-able, and simple setup. Oil cooled BW-s300 twin scroll turbo, single 60mm wastegate. The apex seals appear to be good and I suspect the reason it was pulled is the busted turbo. Only time will tell, but hopefully I'll at least get to drive it a bit before a rebuild is necessary.

Frank818

07-03-2015, 06:27 PM

Adam, are you an expert of the rotary or it's your 1st encounter?

Canadian818

07-03-2015, 09:22 PM

Adam, are you an expert of the rotary or it's your 1st encounter?

Long time fan, first time owner. Unfortunately I currently have lots of time to research but no time to work on it.

Exidous

07-04-2015, 06:13 PM

You mention mid range. A gt35r is the biggest you want to go for mid range. Rotary's much like diesels rely on boost for tq. Make sure you go smaller on the turbo then most. A rotary with a big turbo is imo one of the most unfun scary cars to drive. A rotary with a properly operating twin setup is a blast to drive but limited in anything over 400whp. 60mm wastegate seems really big. A 45 would be more than enough.

The smaller bw s362 wouldn't be a bad choice. Read a LOT and then read a ton more.

blkstig

07-15-2015, 01:51 PM

I've been looking at 818's for the past couple of weeks and thought to myself how fun it would be with a rotary. I wish you success. I'm a rotary enthusiast. I've owned a few and currently own a boosted rx-8 along with other toys... you have the right motor. Sucks the 99spec twins didn't play out. They are definitely the more sought after set of twins. before trashing them Call Bryan and BNR Suprcars and see if he'll buy the core. He does a mean upgrade to the twins. something lke 400+whp capable...
If you pockets are deep, I would suggest going with a efr8374. It has very quick spool for the power it's able to produce. 12psi on a stock port motor would put you in the 320ish whp range most likely. In an 818 that would be a rocket ship and safe to have fun at the track. You could always go with a high boost map for shenanigans...

Keep the updates coming. You're single handedly pushing me towards my own build :)

Canadian818

07-18-2015, 08:51 AM

Thanks, and I wish I had more time to work on the car and keep the updates coming. I seriously considered the EFR8374, and IMO it's the best turbo for the rotary. However, it's crazy expensive, and having to replace that because I blew some apex seals through it would suck. I like the idea of built in BOV and the divided wastegate, but not sure it's worth the extra money/risk to me.

Frank818

07-20-2015, 07:13 PM

Adam, why the EFR8374 is the best for rotaries? What's so special about it that works better on rotaries than "normal" engines?

Scargo

07-20-2015, 07:42 PM

Here's a guess: I have one and I have it earmarked for a near 600 crank HP engine for my track Subie. I know that it has an amazingly broad band of efficiency for lower air volumes and can deliver gobs of power before 4000 RPM. I predict 400 FPT at 3,600...
The volume of air the rotary moves must be a good fit. The turbo sure can move a lot of air on the high-end too, and the rotary has a lot of R's which means it can handle a big turbo there. My RX7 R1 had twin turbos, but they were pretty tiny. To find a turbo that can perform as if it were two is a good feat.

Canadian818

07-27-2015, 10:51 AM

Scargo is right, the 8374 moves a lot of air. Rotaries favor a large hot side, and make less horsepower with the same turbocharger than piston engines. Like Scargo said, its a 600hp turbo for subaru's, however its a 400-450hp turbo for rotaries. A bit big for the 818, but I should be able to run it mid 300's on low boost while i sort out the suspension/aero/tranny/etc. The advantage of going with a s300 oil cooled turbo is that the cost of switching turbos isn't a big deal, and repairs/replacements are easily done locally. The slightly less spool isn't a big deal on track, and lets face it, it'll still be scary on the street. Decisions, decisions...

Frank818

07-27-2015, 07:23 PM

Very interesting knowledge!!

Canadian818

10-17-2015, 12:14 PM

Need some help and advice. I followed this thread (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567707) to change out my backing plates to WRX plates to fit my nissan calipers. I wasn't going to install new bearings because my donor was low mileage. I pulled the drivers side hub, swapped backing plates and installed my ARP studs. When I went to reinstall the hub it just didn't seem right. The seal wasn't in enough and the hub was very difficult to turn, even after removing the axle bolt. I pulled it back off to see if I damaged anything. It didn't appear so. I decided to go ahead and pull the other side anyway, and well now I'm just confused. The bearings are different!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2019.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2019.jpg.html)

The one on the left is the driver side, and the ball bearings were actually left in housing, i just pulled them out by hand for this picture. So now I'm not sure what to do. Is it ok to have two different types of bearings? Is one inferior? Any suggestions on getting the hub back in? I can use a friends press if need be, but getting it in wasn't the problem.

I also manged to break a tone ring, and I was planning on trying traction control. I went to subaru and they want $150 for one! Ouch! Does anyone have one lying around they removed and don't plan to use?

Thanks

Scargo

10-17-2015, 12:55 PM

I have tone rings from an STi that's around '05. If you can use them you can have one for cheap. What about these? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ABS-Tone-Ring-FRONT-for-Impreza-WRX-Legacy-Outback-Forester-/310661373868?hash=item4854dc5fac:g:CuYAAOSwZjJU9uq V&vxp=mtr)
I kinda think rollers are better for a wheel bearing application.

Canadian818

10-17-2015, 02:42 PM

My rear tone rings bolt on with 4 bolts. A quick eBay search didn't show anything. I'll post a pic tonight, I'm out buying parts :)

Hindsight

10-17-2015, 04:27 PM

I used a press when re-installing the hubs into the spindles. Need to ensure you are supporting the spindle but the inner portion of the bearing.

Regarding the bearing, someone must have just replaced one at some point. My advice would be to always replace all bearings when building. It's not hard and it nearly guarantees you won't have to worry about it for the amount of time you will own the car.

You may not find just a tone ring.... you might have to buy a whole used spindle with the tone ring attached. Lots of those on eBay.

STiPWRD

10-18-2015, 08:51 AM

I replaced all my wheel bearings, the rollers are OEM, the ball bearings must be some aftermarket bearings. I'd definitely use a press to install the hub back into the spindle.

Canadian818

10-18-2015, 09:43 AM

Thanks for the input guys. When you pressed in the hub was the seal already in the spindle or on the hub?

Hindsight

10-18-2015, 11:49 AM

Been so long since I've done it that it is hard to remember. I think there are three seals. Two on the inside end of the hub and one on the outside. I know for sure the outside seal must be in place before you press the hub in because otherwise you wouldn't be able to get to it. As for the inside two seals, I can't remember but feel like they can be installed after the hub is in.

Frank818

10-18-2015, 07:43 PM

There are 3 seals yes. I can't recall which side they are. Do you need part #s?

Canadian818

10-18-2015, 08:17 PM

Thanks guys. I went ahead and tried to install them again as I did before. I was able to hold the axle from spinning with my hand while tightening the nut with my cordless impact driver. The hub seemed to be all the way seated by the time it was out of steam (rated at 1500in/lbs torque). Then I installed a rotor and clamped it so it couldn't spin (no brakes yet) and finished torquing it to 137ft/lbs. All four hubs are done, and spinning as they did before. I was able to push the outer seal back in with a flat head screwdriver, seems good, but I'll be sure to keep an eye on them. I just uninstalled the other tone ring for now, I'll probably do my bearings anyway at some point after its driving, and reinstall the tone rings then. I'm a long way from setting up traction control.

Canadian818

10-18-2015, 10:12 PM

Here is the tone ring I need. If anyone has one they're not using let me know what you want for it, I'm in no rush.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2025.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2025.jpg.html)

I decided to copy Rasmus for the front axle stubs and cut them down. I believe he cut off more than me, but I intend to use the tone rings at some point so I cut them flush with it. IMO it looks so much cleaner installed. I don't have a fancy scale like Rasmus, but my bathroom scale says I saved 2lbs a side. :D

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2015.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2015.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2024.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2024.jpg.html)

I've been spending time in the garage for a couple of weeks now, had to buckle down and design my engine mounts. Here is the passenger side, I still need to trim the drivers side to match, but they're both tacked in place. Once my exhaust manifold is fabricated I'll pull the motor one last time, finish welding the mounts and paint them. I bought a 2-part Eastwood chassis paint, but once activated its only good for 24hrs. At $20/can I'm going to try to have all the frame mods done before paint.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2018.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2018.jpg.html)

I modified the OEM transmission mount as my transmission sits quite a bit lower. I filled it with windshield urethane, pretty stiff. Sorry for the bad pic, didn't realize how bad it was.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2017.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2017.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2022.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2022.jpg.html)

I also finally assembled and installed my axles. I used so many shop towels, and a few pairs of gloves, but it was so rewarding seeing them installed. I used Wayne's pipe clamp trick, worked like a charm.

Canadian818

10-18-2015, 10:40 PM

This is my final clearance to the frame at the crank, 5/8".

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2023.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2023.jpg.html)

I went to install my GM throttle body and it hit the frame, uh oh! Luckily while it uses different size bolts top to bottom, the holes are symetrical. So I drilled out the smaller holes and flipped the whole thing around. Not only did it solve my clearance issue with the frame, I can now use the oem mazda oil filler neck! woop woop! I'm assuming that there's firewall clearance issues on the RX7 to prevent running the TB as I am, so custom or FFE $250 oil filler necks are required. It looks close to the oil filter, but I checked, lots of room to remove it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2021.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2021.jpg.html)

Oh and check out what I got!!!!!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2013.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2013.jpg.html)

STiPWRD

10-19-2015, 07:59 AM

I was able to push the outer seal back in with a flat head screwdriver, seems good, but I'll be sure to keep an eye on them.
That's exactly what I did, everything seems to be hold up in the 11 miles I've driven around my neighborhood.

And whoa! Lot's of good progress here. That turbo looks awesome!

Canadian818

10-21-2015, 08:06 PM

Thanks STiPWRD!

I have some words for whoever designed the pump bracket and tank bowl mess!!!! Ahhhrg that's a nuisance. Finally got it in only to realize that I need to shorten the hose to the pump. Anyone else have to do this? I'm using a walbro 255, and while it's the same size as the Subaru one the sock design is different.

Also, does anyone make those push on clips for fuel likes to AN fittings? I tried searching with poor results, I'm not sure what they're called.

Scargo

10-21-2015, 08:47 PM

I think this 644110 Russell adapter (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644110)is the one that will work. I've used them on my STi. They are for 5/16" fuel line.

Part Type:Fuel Line Adapter Fittings (http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-line-adapter-fittings?ibanner=SREPD4) , Product Line:Russell Push-On EFI Fitti (http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/russell-performance/product-line/russell-push-on-efi-fittings?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5)e hose end (http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=60&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=Russell+EFI+SAE+Female+Quick-Connect+Hose+End+Fittings).http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46774&stc=1
Aeromotive makes one, too that clips in (http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/15117/10002/-1), like stock. I prefer the Russel parts and use blue Locktite.

Canadian818

10-21-2015, 09:23 PM

Thank you good sir.

Rasmus

10-21-2015, 09:28 PM

Thanks for the shout out man. Makes me feel good some of my work inspires others.

Which BorgWarner is that? The EFR7163? Twinscroll? You've got two rotors, right?

Canadian818

10-21-2015, 09:42 PM

Thanks for the shout out man. Makes me feel good some of my work inspires others.

Which BorgWarner is that? The EFR7163? Twinscroll? You've got two rotors, right?

I read through most builds, but tend to not comment unless I have a question or something to add. I really enjoyed your obsession with the littlest detail, and I'm certain I'm not the only one. Glad to see you back at it, take lots of pics!

As for the turbo, well, you're just going to have to wait a few more days. Hope to start my manifold on Saturday, I really can't wait for everyone to see this jewel next to the 13b.

Aero STI

10-21-2015, 10:05 PM

That's bigger than a 7163. It's got a 3" inlet. 7670 or larger.

The power delivery from the rotary with a big turbo in this chassis is going to be a riot.

blkstig

10-22-2015, 12:49 AM

8374!!!
whooohoooo!!! @ 12-13psi that thing made 320ish whp on a stock port motor. I have seen close to 600whp and it wasn't even maxed out. Great turbo for the rotary.

longislandwrx

10-22-2015, 10:15 AM

Sorry i'm late to this thread.

It is going to fly, my supercharged 1987 rx7 at 2500lbs was a rocket. this thing is going to be a bullet in third gear.

PS there's nothing unpractical about going to premix!

Looky what I found in the oil pan...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG1989.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG1989.jpg.html)

looks like the c-clips from the turbos thrust bearing... 46781

Canadian818

10-22-2015, 01:26 PM

Excellent! The front turbo shaft had snapped, leaving the hotside just laying in the manifold. It must have just made its way down the oil drain. I'm still hopeful I can put this on the road without having to rebuild the engine. I ordered a coolant vacuum tester, just want to make sure the o rings are good.

Canadian818

10-22-2015, 09:52 PM

Few things on the go. I coated the inside of my tank with POR tank sealer. Went ok, however I should've rolled it around more to get the access out as there's a few runs in there.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2020.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2020.jpg.html)

Shortened my fuel pump hose about 3/8", still need to rotate the pump a bit more to get the sock laying flat in the bowl.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2029.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2029.jpg.html)

After reading someones post yesterday about the level sensor arm getting stuck it got me thinking about how I modified my tank and it might not clear. I was right. So glad I realized this now.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2031.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2031.jpg.html)

And the last hour and a half in the garage tonight was trying to find the little clip that holds the float on that I lost while bending the arm. So frustrating. So far on this tank I've wasted 4 or 5 hours. A few unpacking every box in search of the fuel pump bracket which was in a bag on my workbench. I accidentally grabbed a stainless rivet to attach said bracket and broke my rivet gun, so I went to Lowes to get a new one and some heat shrink butt connectors, they had neither. What they did have was paint, so I patiently waited for my wife to get paint mixed knowing I was not going to accomplish anything that night. I had to go to two stores yesterday to get a new gun and butt connectors, and I ended up grinding off the SS rivet. And now tonight with the level arm. I WILL FINISH THIS TANK TOMORROW...afaik

On a plus note, I had some boxes from summit waiting for me when I got home from work! I got a Tilton reservoir for my brakes and clutch. I didn't like that the remote kit I got from mike linked the front and rear brakes together. Besides, this looks Race Car!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2028.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2028.jpg.html)

Also from summit was my DBA rotors. The fronts are soooo big, holy crap. The rear caliper sits about 1/4" to far out from center. I knew this before, many run it as is, however I'll be modifying the holes to bring the pad 100% on the rotor. Now I need to decide on brake pads and my brake buying is done.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2026.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2026.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2027.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2027.jpg.html)

Bob_n_Cincy

10-22-2015, 10:43 PM

Canadian818

10-22-2015, 11:35 PM

Canadian,
When you put in your remote reservoir, make sure your hose runs down hill. If you have a high spot in the hose, there could be a bubble there. Under aggressive braking that bubble could get sucked into the master cylinder.
Bob

Thanks Bob, I probably wouldn't have thought of that. Due to the design I'm kinda forced to swoop down and back up to the bottom anyway, but good advice for sure. I'll wait to mount it until the hood and wiper are done, seen a few people have to move them afterwards.

What pads are you using on your car? How are they? I'm thinking overly aggressive pads will be difficult to get heat into, and I cringe at brake squeal.

Bob_n_Cincy

10-23-2015, 02:08 AM

What pads are you using on your car? How are they? I'm thinking overly aggressive pads will be difficult to get heat into, and I cringe at brake squeal.

CENTRIC 30909290 on all 4 wheels. $44.79 per axle at rockauto.

StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads are engineered to meet the demands of high performance driving while maintaining the refinement and comfort expected in everyday driving conditions. StopTech brake pads combine the benefits of premium street brake pads with aggressive friction formulas suitable for track day and autocross use. Para-aramid composites are specially formulated to provide linear response at both cold and hot temperatures, delivering optimum stopping performance over a wide range of driving conditions.

I especially like the low fade quality.
With my caliper setup, I can lock up all 4 wheels at 80mph easily.
Bob

Canadian818

10-25-2015, 05:43 PM

CENTRIC 30909290 on all 4 wheels. $44.79 per axle at rockauto.

StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads are engineered to meet the demands of high performance driving while maintaining the refinement and comfort expected in everyday driving conditions. StopTech brake pads combine the benefits of premium street brake pads with aggressive friction formulas suitable for track day and autocross use. Para-aramid composites are specially formulated to provide linear response at both cold and hot temperatures, delivering optimum stopping performance over a wide range of driving conditions.

I especially like the low fade quality.
With my caliper setup, I can lock up all 4 wheels at 80mph easily.
Bob

Thanks again Bob. I read some reviews and couldn't find any complaints. I'm going to order a set, so I can wrap up my brakes soon. Some questioned if they would be suitable for the track, but IMO I can't imagine it being an issue with the weight of the 818. If anything getting enough heat in the brakes will be the challenge.

Canadian818

10-25-2015, 05:59 PM

Made some headway with the turbo manifold. Used a bunch of straps to put the turbo where I wanted it. I installed the 4" intake elbow and attempted to push it as far forward as possible to maximize exhaust length, I also wanted it as far away from the intake manifold as possible. I'll need to clock the center section, and I'm not sure yet how I'll route the charge pipe so I still might need to clock the compressor housing as well. My plan is an A2A intercooler on the drivers side. My piping will be a little long, but I want it far from the heat of the turbo and exhaust.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2034.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2034.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2035.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2035.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2036.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2036.jpg.html)

This week I'll turn this into an exhaust manifold...hopefully anyway.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2037.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2037.jpg.html)

bbjones121

10-26-2015, 12:09 AM

A coworker of mine wants to start a rotary 818 also. I told him I have been following your build. Keep up the good work it looks great.

Hindsight

10-26-2015, 07:31 AM

Wow, two ports and two pipes! Should be very clean.

Canadian818

10-26-2015, 10:06 AM

I got a PM about the adapter plate I used and realized I hadn't post any info yet. Now that I know it works there's no reason not to. I got it from Volks conversions out of Australia. It was expensive, $1200aud shipped, and IMO the quality was poor. It's not a nice CnC piece, I had it put on a lathe to clean up the outside edge. I also had to weld up a void in the poor material. Also the flywheel bolts are for JDM clutches, so I had to have it drilled, tapped and new dowels installed for USDM clutches. However, to their credit, it fit together perfectly. As of now with the transmission in gear I can turn the crank easily with a 3/8" ratchet and the hubs spin.

lt1_fd3s

10-26-2015, 12:06 PM

Thanks Adam for the info!

Frank818

10-26-2015, 05:00 PM

Pretty nice! Pretty nice! You're moving fast lately!

You engine sits higher than mine at the top.
I also have about 5/8" clearance between the pulleys and FW tubes.
I also had to shorten the pump hose, I also use a walbro-like.

blkstig

10-27-2015, 12:57 AM

As I'm sure you know, be very cautious of heat. It sounds like you're on the right path with heat management. Are you planning on using heat shielding,turbo blankets, and ceramic coating? I would suggest it if at all possible. Rotary engines exhaust are are higher than their piston counterpart. I'm also not sure what your use is going to be, but if you plan on doing any track time, look into a huge dual pass radiator to help out.
Have you decided on what fuel you're going to run? e85 will help with heat management if it's close to you. Meth injection will also work wonders for IATs and keep carbon buildup down.
I am so excited to see this come together. Keep up the good work

Canadian818

10-27-2015, 05:58 AM

Fuel will be premixed 94 octane, no e85 here. I'll start with water injection to help with temps, and only add meth if needed. There will be a few heat shields, specifically between the turbo and intake manifold and around the cat. The exhaust will be wrapped, and gold reflective insulation everywhere. I'm also going to put a naca duct directly below the turbo in the floor to promote airflow in that area. The back of the car will be vented more than anyone else's I've seen so far, which should help with getting the heat out. Keeping the stock rad for initial testing, startup, go karting, but will upgrade before hitting the track.

lt1_fd3s

10-27-2015, 07:41 AM

Hey, I'm also wondering the reason for the intake spacer between the UIM and LIM?

Canadian818

10-27-2015, 10:07 AM

Hey, I'm also wondering the reason for the intake spacer between the UIM and LIM?

Heat. The lower intake manifold is exposed to a lot of heat, unfortunately putting a spacer between it and the block is out of my skill set, because it's a tapered flow. So in an attempt to stop that heat from spreading I'm going to try the spacer. Not sure how much it'll help, and I've never seen it before on a rotary, so it might be moot.

lt1_fd3s

10-27-2015, 10:45 AM

I know a few folks will put the gold foil on the underside of the intake to help battle heat. And I've seen intakes getting ceramic coatings as well.

Another thing I like to do with the REW is relocate the coils to off the block as well. Try to get as much air flow on the block as I can.

Any thoughts yet on location of oil coolers?

Canadian818

10-27-2015, 01:09 PM

I'm going to use AEM smart coils mounted to the firewall. Not 100% set on oil cooler(s). Once the body is on I'll take some measurements, ideally it'll be one large one mounted behind the passenger rear wheel with air ducted from the side cut out. Hopefully Kurt does another run of scoops.

lt1_fd3s

10-27-2015, 04:14 PM

awesome! like many others I'll be following your build, and ask the occasional rotary related question!

blkstig

10-28-2015, 01:11 AM

I'm going to use AEM smart coils mounted to the firewall.

I really love these coils. Well, what I've read and seen on them so far. I run a LSx D585 coil setup for my rotary. The more I read about the AEM smart coils the more I think I'm going to make the switch here soon. I have slight ignition breakup on my current LSx coils at 17-18psi. Supposedly, the AEM coils will clear up this issue.

I just can't tell you how happy I am you're doing this build... Keep it up

Frank818

10-29-2015, 06:16 PM

Canadian818

10-29-2015, 09:40 PM

Adam when you say you are not 100% set on the coolers, do you mean not set on installing any cooler at all or not set as to where you would want it (them) but that you know you will want at least one?

BTW it's you and me tonight, may the best of tonight wins. :)

Definitely want one. Hopefully I can fit a large one on the opposite side of my intercooler and hopefully it's enough.

As for the game, I'm not an oilers fan. I'm a relocated Newfie and a born 'n raised habs fan, albeit not an active one as of late.

Canadian818

11-01-2015, 11:27 PM

Started working 12hr days this week, and worked yesterday, so progressed has slowed more than I had hoped. I did manage to get my turbo manifold fabricated, still lots of welding to do on it. I test fitted it, lots of clearance, not that the engine will move much.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2038.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2038.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2039.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2039.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2040.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2040.jpg.html)

I've been trying for awhile now to get some enkei RPF1's. I wanted 18x9.5 rear, and 17x8 front. Turns out its no easy task to get those in the same color. The search, waiting for emails from dealers, ordering, finding out weeks later they're on permanent back order, have just exhausted me. So I'm going to go back to my original plan of XXR 535's. I'll wrap them with toyo 888's. While I might track them, I'll inevitably get some RPF1's with slicks for that one day.

Speedy G

11-03-2015, 05:23 PM

Nice Manifold! Any chance you can ceramic coat it? At least put a stainless heat shield above the exhaust mani, that way you don't heat up the intake that's right above it. Also, you don't want to lose heat before it gets into the turbine or the air will decompress and you'll lose power going into the turbo so it's best to wrap it or ceramic coat it. You might also want to think about de-stressing the manifold by making a turbo stand. At least something that will hold up the turbo to relieve the mani screws from stress during the heat-up cool-down cycles (200C-950C-200C). It's obviously not your first rodeo, but just in case. Copper lock nuts are also helpful. I had huge issues with my last turbo setup so I have some experience with what I'm talking about. My last suggestion would be to install an EGT sensor. There's nothing more helpful than an EGT sensor when tuning. It's really the one measurement that tells you where the line is.

Cheers!

Speedy G

Canadian818

11-04-2015, 11:06 AM

Thanks Speedy G! It's always nice to have helpful input. I wasn't going to coat the manifold but I was going to wrap it, and the rest of my exhaust too. I'm also going to do a heat shield protecting the intake manifold. Instead of stainless I'm going to be modifying a "air bake" cookie sheet and wrapping it in DEI gold tape. The cookie pan has a neat design which is ideal for insulating with an air gap between two thin sheets of steel. I have two Egt bungs to weld in each runner, and I'll have a dual Egt gauge.

This actually is my first rodeo, so I welcome questions and suggestions. I'm just figuring things out as I go. For a turbo brace, what do you mean exactly? I often see braces from the header flange to the turbo flange, but do you mean a brace to the turbo itself? Also, what grade should I be looking at for some studs and nuts for the turbo to manifold connection? The Egt's on rotary's is extremely high, so whatever's the best. The studs for the block to manifold from Mazda hold up better than anything available aftermarket, I might see if they're long enough.

Speedy G

11-04-2015, 12:12 PM

Regarding the brace, usually people brace larger turbos, but your turbo is only resting on 2 header runners, so the vibration and dynamic stress will all be taken up by those 2 runners. Those runners will probably also be at their operational limit if you tune aggressively (950C). What I've seen from welded manifolds is that the welds tend to develop pin holes form all that stress (or cracks). You may be able to improve reliability if you brace the turbo with something that's not running that hot, and can hold the turbo in place. You could weld something parallel to the runners from the header flange to the turbo flange.

Also regarding your EGT sensors, try not to weld them if possible. Welding renders steel brittle and can crack from dynamic stress (like the welds). I tapped the runner direcly but I had a cast iron manifold. In your case, maybe tapping the header flange directly would work, but I'm not sure if anything else will interfere.

Canadian818

11-04-2015, 02:34 PM

Not much option on the Egt bungs, going to weld them at the halfway point of the runners. The runners are 1/8" thick 304, and the welds inside the pipe have been honed smooth, so I don't expect pinholes. I probably will add a brace from flange to flange like I had in mock up. The vibration of the engine is considerably less than a piston engine, so that's also in my favour.

Nothing new to report this week, working 12hr days and almost a 2hr round trip commute is really killing my garage time. Might have Sunday off, going to try to finish modifying my rear brakes. Ordered some stoptech pads, so I can actually finish installing the brakes soon. Whoop!

Speedy G

11-04-2015, 04:01 PM

Regarding fasteners, on my jeep I had a good experience with these:

http://www.stage8.com/perfauto.html

I got them from summit. If you can't find the right size, I used split-lock header bolts on my wastegte and they worked like charm (but it looks like they're discontinued):

http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/fastener-style/locking-bolt?N=4294909425%2B4294827391&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&retaillocation=int

Here's a good discussion on header bolts (but it applies to wastegate and turbo bolts as well):

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235025

If you don't feel like changing the studs you already have, at least use copper plated steel lock nuts. Copper just acts like an anti-seize, and they lock as well as a regular steel lock-nut.

Speedy G

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 10:01 PM

Whats your plan for fitting the 295s or 305s in the wheel well? What size are you going with for front tires?

Canadian818

11-24-2015, 10:11 PM

Whats your plan for fitting the 295s or 305s in the wheel well? What size are you going with for front tires?

I already have some frp flares from eBay. My plan is to epoxy them to the side sail. At some point I'd like to blend them, make a mold, and new side sails, but I'm not interested in spending too much time on that this winter. Once I get my wheels and tires I'm going to jump on the body install and I'll have pics up right away. I just posted in the wheel/tire thread, the 295's I ordered are discontinued and my supplier can only get one. Not sure if I should try to find one myself, try to get the 305's, or wait for the R888R's to be released to North America.

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 10:22 PM

Canadian818

11-24-2015, 10:36 PM

I'll take some pics of the flares tomorrow, or Thursday. Going to be -25c tomorrow, might not want to go in the garage after working outside all day. 255's up front on 18x8.75. Both 255's and 295's are 25.1" diameter, the 305 is over 26".

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 10:47 PM

I have 255s as well with the overall diameter matching. I went with Hankook Ventus v12 tires.

Canadian818

11-24-2015, 10:54 PM

I have 255s as well with the overall diameter matching. I went with Hankook Ventus v12 tires.

Do you need flares up front? The fronts I ordered are +20 offset, what are yours? I have four flares, two bigger than the other two, not sure if I'll need all four, or maybe just the smaller ones in the back.

Canadian818

11-24-2015, 10:56 PM

Also, how do you like your tires? How's the grip on the street? Any track days or autox?

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 11:10 PM

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 11:12 PM

http://i.imgur.com/MesjgGwl.jpg (http://imgur.com/MesjgGw)

Canadian818

11-24-2015, 11:29 PM

I went with MiRo 398 18x10.5 Flat Black 5-114.3 [+20mm] for the front. I ended up adding 10mm spacers to clear the brembo brakes.

Here is a pic of the flares. You can kind of see the front wheel.

http://i.imgur.com/a6LDf4ol.jpg (http://imgur.com/a6LDf4o)

Very happy with grip. Almost impossible to loss traction at take off even with 380hp/tq to the wheels. I have not done any autox or track days.

Your front wheels are not 10.5, that must be the rear. My rotors are from an STI but my calipers are smaller than the brembo's so I might be good. I expect transmission and axle upgrades in my future before breaking loose. I remember when you first posted that second pic, epic! Bob's post on my R888R thread has got me thinking I might wait a few months for tires. I'll go ahead and get the rims though, itching to get something.

Kurk818

11-24-2015, 11:35 PM

You are correct. The fronts are MiRo 398 18x8.5 Flat Black 5-114.3 [+35mm].

I did have to dish into the sheet metal to avoid rubbing on the inside at full lock on both sides.

Frank818

11-25-2015, 08:19 AM

Hey Adam, where are you at on the build now?

Canadian818

11-25-2015, 08:43 AM

Hey Adam, where are you at on the build now?

Not far enough to post pics, haha

Canadian818

11-30-2015, 11:39 PM

Do you have a pic of the frp flares? I have over 1500 miles with my 295. At max height, theres no rub of the original wheel well edge. I used hard rubber molded flares designed for 4x4 rigs.

What size were you thinking for fronts?

Is your main goal with the tire width aesthetics or to maximize surface area for power transfer?

Sorry KurK, I forgot I said I'd post pics of the flares. Also, regarding your last question, it's a little of both. So many have mentioned traction being an issue, and while traction control is an option, IMO its not really "solving" the problem, although effective. I'm not going to lie though, the look is just....drool. I'm one of those guys that thinks that almost every sports car looks better with a widened body. I do plan to make 400+ hp, thus my turbo choice, so why not plan ahead for traction. Obviously I will need to address transmission and axles before attempting to put much power down.

Better late than never

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2042.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2042.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2043.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2043.jpg.html)

I don't want to separate them just yet, but you get the idea. I gave up on KXwheels.com and ordered some wheels from NLmotoring.com on black friday. They've already shipped and should be here on wednesday. I've priced NT01's locally, I'm going to inquire about some R888 locally this week. I'd like to start mounting the body after christmas, at which point I'll start playing with the flares.

Oh and look what showed up!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2041.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2041.jpg.html)

I did get a chance to weld up my manifold this weekend. Needs some porting to clean up the inside, pics coming soon.

Mechie3

12-01-2015, 08:34 AM

Oh and look what showed up!

:D

I've shipped three or four similar boxes to Canada and they've all made it so far. Glad they showed up!

Kurk818

12-01-2015, 09:03 AM

Canadian818

12-01-2015, 11:15 AM

Does the radius of the flare match the openings of the car? That and not being able to adjust for perfect offset fitment is whats keeping me from buying off the shelf pieces.

Which set of wheels did you go with?

These are the flares I bought (http://m.ebay.com/itm/131492232669)

There's some flex to them, I'm hopeful that I can get them to work. My thinking is that they will completely cover the flare already on the car. My side sails are wrapped and strapped to my ceiling, so I won't know for at least a few weeks.

I went with xxr 531's 18x11 +20 and 18x8.5 +20. They're the widest I can get, and while many hate dual bolt pattern wheels, it makes it much easier if I end up going with a 6spd or STI hubs.

RetroRacing

12-01-2015, 01:32 PM

Wheel nuts, get the titanium ones, NOT the alum!
http://www.imageinmotion.com/

Canadian818

12-01-2015, 02:02 PM

Wheel nuts, get the titanium ones, NOT the alum!
http://www.imageinmotion.com/

I actually ordered my steel ones from here. I didn't realize they had titanium ones, oh well. Thanks though!

Canadian818

12-03-2015, 12:00 AM

Wheel Day!!!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2044.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2044.jpg.html)

It touches, but barely. I might have to change the shims on that bar a little to offset it inside. None of the suspension is tightened or aligned, so its hard to say if it'll be a problem requiring wheel spacers.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2045.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2045.jpg.html)

Whoa thats wide!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2046.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2046.jpg.html)

Clears the caliper no problem, but I wasn't worried with my low offset.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2047.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2047.jpg.html)

Slight mishap with ordering wheels, only got one front wheel. No big deal, another will be on its way soon. Obviously tires will have to wait.

Flamshackle

12-03-2015, 04:21 AM

are they the xxr 530's?

Canadian818

12-03-2015, 07:53 AM

are they the xxr 530's?

XXR 531's 18x11 +20 out back and 18x8.5 +20 up front

Scargo

12-03-2015, 08:23 AM

Are you trying to avoid buying the aftermarket, curved trailing arms? I wonder if stock is up to the task of high torque? They also have those mushy bushings...
Gawd those wheels are big!

nkw8181

12-03-2015, 08:33 AM

Geeezz that's huge! When looking from the back with the tires on the majority of the with will be tire.

Pearldrummer7

12-03-2015, 08:46 AM

Those are huge. Will the tires touch each other with how wide they are? ;)

Your backspacing is a lot less than mine (~10mm less clearance on the inside). How does that work? Do you have a spacer or something?

My 17x9 + 35mm offset rubbed in a few places until I added a 3mm spacer. That's with Wayne's modified arms.

Kurk818

12-03-2015, 09:58 AM

Wheel Day!!!

It touches, but barely. I might have to change the shims on that bar a little to offset it inside. None of the suspension is tightened or aligned, so its hard to say if it'll be a problem requiring wheel spacers.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2045.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CIMG2045.jpg.html)

The clearance on mine is also just as tight. So much so that i had to switch from the rim mounted balancing weights to the stick on type to avoid the contact with the upper trailing arm during cornering.

Love the wheels :)

Canadian818

12-03-2015, 10:51 AM

Are you trying to avoid buying the aftermarket, curved trailing arms? I wonder if stock is up to the task of high torque? They also have those mushy bushings...
Gawd those wheels are big!

I already have some tubular Godspeed trailing arms with the hiem joint on the chassis side. Once I get some tires on I'll install them and do a rough alignment. I expect I'll have to modify them like Wayne's arms as some say they offer less clearance than stock.

Canadian818

12-03-2015, 11:09 AM

Geeezz that's huge! When looking from the back with the tires on the majority of the with will be tire.

That's the idea! I can't wait to get tires and put this on the ground.

Those are huge. Will the tires touch each other with how wide they are? ;)

Your backspacing is a lot less than mine (~10mm less clearance on the inside). How does that work? Do you have a spacer or something?

My 17x9 + 35mm offset rubbed in a few places until I added a 3mm spacer. That's with Wayne's modified arms.

No spacer yet, the suspension bolts are all loose, hanging, with the coilover preloaded.

The clearance on mine is also just as tight. So much so that i had to switch from the rim mounted balancing weights to the stick on type to avoid the contact with the upper trailing arm during cornering.

Love the wheels :)

Thanks Kurt, I'm really happy with them. I'll have to remember to get the stick on weights, I definitely don't have the room for the hammer on style.