Adam's Canadian 13B Rotary 818-SR Build [Archive] - Page 3

Canadian818

11-04-2016, 08:57 AM

For the TB, if you move the pedal, does the % change or really stays locked at 20% all the time no many at what physical position the pedal is?

I did make a little head way with it last night. 20% is the "resting" position for the TB. If I manually move the blade it changes, so the tps is bang on. The problem is the calibration wizard didn't really work the way it should've. I can adjust the P.I.D values and bias %, but without a reasonable starting point I'm flying blind. I played with it a bit, but I'm so far off that when I did get it to move with the pedal, it wanted to go to positions it couldn't and made some terrible sounds. This was what the engineer sent my contact at AEM about my logs;

"Based on the logs from that RX7, I think both the values and the breakpoints in the DBW_Bias table are wrong,
It looks like the DBW_Bias table is set to use E46 BMW throttle values... the E46 throttles have an odd actuator, so those settings are unlikely to work well with any other DBW throttle."

So I've requested they give me some better numbers to work with as a starting point. One of the main reasons I chose the infinity ecu was because of its DBW support, and the reason I chose the LS3 TB was because it was one they supported.

That is true, I should have been more clear, a constant 13.0v at idle.

Canadian, one other thing to look at is the voltage on the ACC pin, with the switch turned to that position with the engine not running. If you see apx. 1v that is good. Then with the the engine at idle, if the ACC pin to ground reads in the 12.9v-13.5v range, you could hook up "L" to ACC. This should satisfy the transistor in the voltage regulator, allowing it to charge the battery when the voltage drops.

I will try that today. I seen some places online that "s" can go directly to "b" instead of to the battery. Any thoughts on that?

DrunkenSailor

11-04-2016, 09:14 AM

Both B and S are direct to Battery (+) connections. Connecting "S" to "B", then "B" to the Battery is ok. Per the schematic.

Frank818

11-04-2016, 10:40 AM

"Based on the logs from that RX7,...

Well your engineer is wrong right here. lolll

But yeah the DBW is not always simple to configure, I know with my ECU it's not that great either, but I have a cable so I'm lucky.
Hopefully AEM can help more.

Canadian818

11-04-2016, 01:59 PM

I'm making some progress today! I have my settings close enough that it "tries" to hold the positions I request of it, there just seems to be some struggle. It's as if the open and close motors are fighting each other, and after 30sec the motors turn off and it rests at 20%. While setting up a DBW from scratch is out of the realm of AEM's tech support, and admittedly over their head, one of their engineers is a rotary guy and has offered to help.

Fingers crossed that I can have it idling normally today and put everyone's helpful alternator suggestions to work!

Lumpyguy

11-04-2016, 06:18 PM

awesome to here bud, hope to see a video of it running good

Canadian818

11-04-2016, 08:27 PM

https://youtu.be/Jdzx3kw2WAk

Canadian818

11-04-2016, 08:56 PM

AEM took good care of me, above and beyond! They exchanged quite a few emails, I sent a log, they sent me changes to make, I sent another log, etc. The DBW is setup bang on now. I haven't tuned the idle yet, and I still need to check timing, but I'm feeling optimistic. Oil pressure is now good, around 85-90psi on cold startup, settling to 50-60psi.

The map sensor problem I thought I had was just me being ignorant to the metric system. 90kpa is just atmospheric at this altitude.

I wired the alternator like we all discussed, "S" to "B" and "L" to ACC. Works good, 14v on at idle.

Coolant leak was also solved, and buttoned up.

I jacked up the wheels to try putting it in gear, seems to work ok, but I despise that damn shifter! Does everyone else actually hear their clutch engage? I was surprised to actually hear the wooshing noise of the clutch engagement and disengagement.

turbomacncheese

11-05-2016, 12:46 AM

Oh man, I can't wait to hear that thing wind up!!

Toysrus

11-05-2016, 07:17 AM

Sounds mean. Actually made me think about getting a rotary lol

Mitch Wright

11-05-2016, 08:23 AM

Congrats, been enjoying watching your build. What shifter are you using?

Canadian818

11-05-2016, 09:49 AM

Thanks guys! The idle note is quieter and deeper than expected.

Congrats, been enjoying watching your build. What shifter are you using?

It's the one that came with the kit. But I think an mr2 one is in my future.

Mitch Wright

11-05-2016, 10:46 AM

BIG difference with the MR2 and shorter cables.

Frank818

11-06-2016, 02:17 PM

Awesome! You fixed more issues and faster than I did on my VR6! :)

Canadian818

11-06-2016, 06:01 PM

Awesome! You fixed more issues and faster than I did on my VR6! :)

Still lots to fix.

So I was attempting to tune my idle today, and came across some trouble. I'm not sure what normal numbers are, but after 5 mins or so my oil temp was around 60c and water temp was around 90c. Just after shut off (key off did nothing again, had to pull the coil fuse), I noticed the front rad cap was pissing out coolant. My front cap is a 20psi with overflow capped and rear is 16psi with overflow tank. Thoughts? I can't think why the lower pressure cap would bleed off pressure, air pocket maybe?

Mitch Wright

11-06-2016, 06:14 PM

Air pocket is my bet.

Frank818

11-06-2016, 06:30 PM

That's hot. Aside from air pocket which is well possible, would it warm up that much if only the coolant in the block/head would be circulating around instead of the thermoswitch opening to let coolant flow to the rad? Nah, even that it wouldn't warm that much that fast. But no coolant (or air), yes.

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 08:16 PM

Is there a coolant bleed point on the motor? Is the rear cap too tight to function. I once pushed down too hard and my cap ended up resting on the stops. 1 cracked plastic radiator end cap later.... or a bad/ stuck 16psi cap.

bleed the system. If you have a pressure tester put that on in place of the cap. Could be a bad thermostat causing it to not flow and overheat or could be gasket or coolant seal allowing high pressure combustion leak into coolant. http://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/excessive-coolant-pressure-68270/

Also check that your radiator isn't clogged. Or maybe the extended coolant system builds pressure at the front first? Stuck thermostat would cause pressure and heat to go out the motor inlet... pinched or kinked coolant hose...

Canadian818

11-06-2016, 08:29 PM

I filled the system using vacuum with the Airlift kit. New rad caps front and rear. The cap seems to function fine, it's spit some coolant into the overflow as it warmed up. T-stat and pump are also new.

A real bummer is I went to confirm timing today and realized that my underdrive pulley doesn't have timing marks on it. So now I need to remove it and transfer some marks. It's going to be a pain to remove. I'm actually looking forward to body work, lol

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 08:43 PM

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?t=135179
That's about bleeding the system.

I saw another post where someone tapped the thermo pellet housing and installed a bleed screw.

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 08:51 PM

Where does the stock ac heater core feed from? I read that it's a constant flow system so you probably need to not cap that off but t it into your coolant hoses???

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 08:58 PM

Is your turbo water cooled?

Canadian818

11-06-2016, 08:59 PM

Where does the stock ac heater core feed from? I read that it's a constant flow system so you probably need to not cap that off but t it into your coolant hoses???

I capped it, but thats a fairly common practice. I only have the one end left anyway because I cut one off when I modified the water pump housing.

Canadian818

11-06-2016, 08:59 PM

Is your turbo water cooled?

Yes

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 09:04 PM

And a air pocket could also be causing tstat to not open but I believe we're already tracking that

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 09:06 PM

Could the coolant seal in the turbo be leaking? Sorry for cluttering your thread but hopefully I'm helping.

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 09:15 PM

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI
Combustion gas detector. Can buy or possibly rent at autopart store.

Canadian818

11-06-2016, 09:22 PM

The vacuum leak test was good, so I'm not ready to jump to the conclusion that the brand new turbos seals or the engines o-rings are leaking.

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 09:32 PM

Dont want to be the bad guy here but the engine seal can dry rot from just sitting unused too long. Also the high pressure combustion leak can be one way only. There is enough pressure that failing seal wouldn't leak under vacuum or even leak coolant or oil into each other or into the combustion camber. And it's a rotary seal so possibly only leaking on one side/ top/ bottom...

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 09:41 PM

Any chance the 20 psi cap isn't tight enough?

Canadian818

11-06-2016, 09:43 PM

Any chance the 20 psi cap isn't tight enough?

I'm pretty sure it was, now that's it's cool I just went out and put about a litre of coolant in the rad before it filled up. Definitely still lots of air in the system.

Toysrus

11-06-2016, 10:39 PM

Or wrong cap, plunger not sealing the hole. Putting the pressure tester in it's place would temporarily solve it then you can watch to see if the coolant gets forced out of the overflow tank. Or if you don't have a test cap you could rig up a plug to seal the radiator cap hole and force the 16 psi cap to do it's job. Don't really need a normal cap there anyway a cap that doesn't release pressure would work. https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jaimekop.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2011%2F11%2FP1030787.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jaimekop.com%2F2011%2F1 1%2Fradiator-cap%2F&docid=d8hj1ykGyQT1HM&tbnid=VQZzQ1jLu37E8M%3A&vet=1&w=1200&h=802&safe=off&client=ms-android-sprint-us&bih=511&biw=360&ved=0ahUKEwiCkZjH2pXQAhVIxoMKHUwFBHgQMwgrKAAwAA&iact=mrc&uact=8 like the one on the right just make sure whatever you used to plug the overflow port can take the pressure.

STiPWRD

11-07-2016, 12:50 PM

Canadian818

11-07-2016, 03:42 PM

Do you have overflow tanks at the front and rear of the car? I'm not sure how your rotary handles it but the subaru engines have a degas tank at the top of the engine (it's the highest point in the cooling system - this is where the airlift tool should be used). I capped the radiator (so I only have an overflow tank in the back) and used the air lift tool as well. Some people run overflow tanks off of the radiator, but I don't think that's necessary.

Here's my setup.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F8AF4C9E-F3A1-4F8F-8CB4-5D1BE51C54B3.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F8AF4C9E-F3A1-4F8F-8CB4-5D1BE51C54B3.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CA8EB022-E170-4C0E-A807-FADFFB9A1270.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CA8EB022-E170-4C0E-A807-FADFFB9A1270.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/115021B9-3418-42C8-926B-BAE9F03BA0E1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/115021B9-3418-42C8-926B-BAE9F03BA0E1.jpg.html)

So while my rear cap is the highest point, I might have air trapped in the t-stat houseing. I had hoped to eliminate that by using the air lift tool.

I initially just had a rear overflow, but I've temporarily reinstalled one up front.

STiPWRD

11-07-2016, 04:21 PM

Is the coolant temp sensor also located in the t-stat housing? If so, I would agree that there could be air trapped in there and your sensor could be reading the hot water vapors. Also, where does your overflow tank hook up to in the rear? Most of the systems I've seen run the overflow tank to a small nipple right below the cap.

I'd suggest giving it a few more cycles and checking fluid levels; the cooling issue may eventually go away. The airlift tool really does wonders.

Canadian818

11-07-2016, 04:36 PM

Yes! The sensor is right there! That would definitely explain the high temp readings so quickly.

Toysrus

11-07-2016, 04:49 PM

Maybe you can squeeze one of the couplings after the thermostat and feel the coolant flowing. I know you can do that on rubber hoses. Also feel for heat.

818sNH

11-17-2016, 05:55 PM

Frank818

11-17-2016, 06:57 PM

Hey Arnaldo, not sure I'm following your question on this thread. Are you building a rotary too?

818sNH

11-17-2016, 10:35 PM

yeah, Im getting all my parts together and doing alot of lurking on here.
The starter I have in the 818 now (02 impreza motor) wont work with the new transmission adapter.

Frank818

11-18-2016, 07:05 AM

That's nice a 2nd rotary! :) Which year engine? Will you start your build thread?

Canadian818

11-18-2016, 11:28 AM

Hey Adam awesome job on the build. I am Following your lead. Quick question. I have my motor being ported right now. Should have it back this weekend. I need to find the starter that fits the adapter. Im looking at a 93 legacy 2.2l, is that the one you picked up?

thanks
arnaldo

I'm pretty sure it was a mid 90's legacy starter. When you see it you'll know as the end has only the gear and no housing around it. I'll check mine for a part number later today. Do you have your adapter plate yet? How much porting are you having done? Ecu and turbo plans?

RetroRacing

11-18-2016, 12:18 PM

We had the same issue (air bleed) In our tri-rotor. I think you may be having the same issue, based upon the location of your filler. The point at which your filler mates with the tube is lower than the t-stat, so an air pocket forms on the rad side of the t-stat.
Personally, I would just gut the thermostat and see if you can the filler closer to the same height or higher than the water pump.

818sNH

11-18-2016, 12:58 PM

818sNH

11-18-2016, 01:01 PM

Frank Im using a 93 13b REW. Going single turbo.

toolerwayne

11-18-2016, 01:06 PM

You can also drill a small hole in the body of the thermostat to the side or above the valve section to allow the air to escape. It won't effect the operation much but will eliminate a possible problem

Frank818

11-18-2016, 07:54 PM

Frank Im using a 93 13b REW. Going single turbo.

1993 3rd gen! Oh yeah, my favorite. :) 255hp stock (to the minimum). Sorry for the rest of the car.

Canadian818

11-19-2016, 03:53 PM

Thanks in advance for the info Adam. My adapter plate showed up last week. We are using Fueltech FT400 efi. Dont know about the turbo yet, but we are trying for 400-500hp. So Im not going crazy on the porting just extending the intake and smoothing out the exhaust port. Im also eliminating alot of the emissions stuff. Less wiring I hope. How is that Painless wiring harness? I might use one just for the lights and some accessories.

Here's a pic of the starter label, hope it helps!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/1D517A31-1B4E-4054-9E73-2059DE383916.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/1D517A31-1B4E-4054-9E73-2059DE383916.jpg.html)

I've picked up a 13psi cap for the rear, and installed the Subaru 16psi cap back up front. I'm not sure why when I had 15psi rear and 20psi front the front bypassed and the rear didn't, either way 20psi is way to much pressure for the rotary. I also picked up a tester to see if I'm getting combustion gases in the coolant system. If this is the case then the o-rings are bad and there's no point in further troubleshooting as a rebuild is in order. I hope to figure this out in the next few days, as it's getting too cold to work on the car with the engine running. Time to start cutting fibreglass!

Hindsight

12-21-2016, 08:08 AM

Happy holidays. I'll just leave this here...
http://i.imgur.com/6PskxAfh.png

Canadian818

12-21-2016, 09:56 AM

Haha, sweet! Merry Christmas

Canadian818

01-10-2017, 01:02 AM

You guys think I can still pull off a no paint body, lol

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/AC854A1C-69D4-4755-9CA2-E719DD8CECB8_1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/AC854A1C-69D4-4755-9CA2-E719DD8CECB8_1.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CF76FDE4-A053-44A5-BF09-7AE9E1A0EAD1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CF76FDE4-A053-44A5-BF09-7AE9E1A0EAD1.jpg.html)

Wayne Presley

01-10-2017, 07:31 AM

Frank818

01-10-2017, 07:51 AM

You guys think I can still pull off a no paint body, lol

We never thought so.

You are cutting the side sails to pull them away by changing the rear angle, then cutting and extending the bumper to reach the sails and then extending the 2 rear covers to reach the sails?

BTW, who's Tim?

Hindsight

01-10-2017, 08:16 AM

Wow that is a pretty cool idea to get some more width out of the back for the tires. Would have never thought of that!

Canadian818

01-10-2017, 09:59 AM

I don't think so Tim...

It's funny you should say that, I had his new show "Last Man Standing" playing in the garage as I was working.

You are cutting the side sails to pull them away by changing the rear angle, then cutting and extending the bumper to reach the sails and then extending the 2 rear covers to reach the sails?

BTW, who's Tim?

The rear covers will stay as is, I'm still undecided on how I'll cut the bumper to widen it. I had to slide the whole sil back because my front wheel diameter is too big and it hits. I could've modified how the door mounts and move everything back, but that would've screwed me over when it came time to switch to a hard tip in a few years.

"Tim" is Tim "the toolman" Taylor from the old show "Home Improvement"

Wow that is a pretty cool idea to get some more width out of the back for the tires. Would have never thought of that!

Thanks, to me it seemed an easier way to keep symmetry, and a very different look than flares.

Mitch Wright

01-10-2017, 10:54 AM

Great idea, might look cool to leave the back open as a vent.

Canadian818

01-10-2017, 11:56 AM

Great idea, might look cool to leave the back open as a vent.

I considered that, but it would leave too much tire exposed. Around here they crack down on trucks that have any tire above the axle centre line exposed. They probably wouldn't bother me, but if it prevented me from registering I'd be chapped. I'm thinking of cutting the rear bumper by the lights and pulling it over to meet the fender.

RetroRacing

01-10-2017, 01:30 PM

Great idea!!

bbjones121

01-10-2017, 01:34 PM

That is a great idea

Canadian818

01-12-2017, 09:59 AM

Thanks guys. I need a little help. I did my first bit of fibreglass yesterday, and unfortunately it made my whole house smell like glue hours later. The resin I used was Bondo polyester. Is there a different brand or type that will off gas less offensive odours? It'll be 4 or 5 months before I can do it outside, and I was hoping to be done by then.

Scargo

01-12-2017, 12:50 PM

Do it "outside" and use more Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide (MEKP). I cannot tell you how much. I'm sure you have experienced making too big a batch of resin or Bondo and it was too hot (too much MEKP) and set up too fast? The chemical reaction made it get hot and the more mass you have the faster the reaction. The cold will slow it down.

Also, be careful with MEKP. Don't get it on your skin and for sure not in your eyes! (http://www.eagerplastics.com/mekp.htm) Breathing can be harmful, so you should have ventilation. See section 3.
Yes, it's stinky!

Canadian818

01-12-2017, 04:35 PM

Hindsight

01-12-2017, 05:07 PM

I use West System Epoxy and while it does have an odor, it isn't that strong at all. I have read various things about epoxy binding properly to vinyl-ester resins.... can't remember if people said yay or nay. Search the forums here.... I believe the post was by mikeinatlanta.

Frank818

01-14-2017, 03:42 PM

Outside isn't an option as I'm not sure the resin would ever cure at -40 degrees, lol. I'm wondering if maybe epoxy or vinyl-ester resins would allow me to continue without stinking up the house.

At 15C vinyl ester takes at least 3 times the time to cure than at 20-21C. And it's more picky on the hardener mix too, if off it may badly cure or not at all.
So at -40, hum, hell no. loll

Canadian818

01-14-2017, 04:52 PM

I know I read it here somewhere, but I couldn't find it. From what I understand the FFR parts are viynl ester, right?

Google tells me epoxy is the best choice for odour, so I'll try some of that. I can get the garage to around 15c, so perhaps there's a resin designed for curing at colder temps. Time to visit the local fibreglass supply shop I guess.

Frank818

01-15-2017, 07:25 PM

FFR panels are vinyl ester, yes. I used from Derakane vinyl ester and am freakin pleased of the results. If you control it correctly, it hardness a lot and it's very difficult to remove. Doesn't smell horrible, it smells a lot but it doesn't make you leave the 650sq-ft ventilated room.

Epoxy, at least the one I'm using for my CF splitter and diffuser, doesn't smell as much as vinyl ester. But on vinyl ester, I've been told to use vinyl ester to maximize bond. Epoxy is supposed to bond very good too, I don't know the differences, just that my vinyl ester works above my expectations, which weren't just average.

At 15C I figured I needed a little more MEKP to make the resin harden somewhere between 110 and 200% of it's normal time. It works though, past expiry date (by a month) vinyl ester resin at 15C still bonds extremely strong.

Just be careful not to put any on your fingers, this thing sticks and you need to rub a lot or some high end industrial soap (which I have) to remove it with more ease.

Aero STI

01-15-2017, 09:32 PM

Vinylester stinks similar to polyester. Epoxy isn't so bad of a smell. Get a respirator. I have done a lot of fiberglass work over the years and didn't pay attention to what the underlying resin was and didn't have issues. Although, it's best not to mix different types for maximum bond strength. The difference in cost isn't that great and the last thing you want is delamination a few years down the line.

Frank818

01-16-2017, 07:15 AM

Vinylester is quite cheap for what you get. Although you will need a lot more than I did for your cut side sails and fenders. :)

Canadian818

01-17-2017, 11:51 PM

Finally got back at the car today. I swear I haven't been slacking, there's a built in bookshelf project I've been telling the wife I'd do once the car is finished. She finally snapped, lol, so I hoped to it. Figured three years of procrastinating was a good run, haha.

Did a little more trimming and tweaking, and tomorrow I'll start laying fibreglass. I just wanted to post some mock up pics for some constructive criticism, maybe I'm missing something or some line is way off.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/24475C76-E593-4773-B43E-428CF82A8E88.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/24475C76-E593-4773-B43E-428CF82A8E88.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/EBD1F7B2-4273-4E83-981B-F86EFC1AFEB0.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/EBD1F7B2-4273-4E83-981B-F86EFC1AFEB0.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/C0AD587F-9B15-4CC6-9927-59CE16798033.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/C0AD587F-9B15-4CC6-9927-59CE16798033.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/1FE2BF5B-DDA0-4178-A8EF-6A668F8F9FAD.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/1FE2BF5B-DDA0-4178-A8EF-6A668F8F9FAD.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/0D22D4A7-1D9C-45C0-8941-1116478D83FF.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/0D22D4A7-1D9C-45C0-8941-1116478D83FF.jpg.html)

Scargo

01-18-2017, 04:22 AM

Canadian818

01-18-2017, 10:42 AM

How will you handle the as*-end and the blending of the side fender (sail) and the rounded corner of the bumper fascia? I could see you cutting the bumper in half and spreading it out there, but to match it up between the two pieces at that corner, and especially at the bottom, will be interesting. Will they remain separate pieces or part of the sail combined with the rear?
62883 Lift off or tilt?
62884
I'm helpful, aren't I? :cool:
I do intend to do the side inlets much like you are doing, with it cut, bent in and opened up quite a bit.
Please, no mudflaps...

My plan for the *** end is still up in the air. I have two main ideas, one involves reshaping the bumper, the other is creating a pretty wild diffuser.

I like the framing around the tail lights on this lambo concept, I would probably change the 818 lights.
62894

I could widen the bumper and frame it to feature the tire like the P1.
62895

I'm favouring the side pieces of the diffuser on this lambo. I've been thinking of making my own diffuser, opening up the back end more.
62893

Scargo

01-18-2017, 01:12 PM

Some really great ideas and thanks for sharing. All along I have wanted an open rear. I look forward to seeing it develop.

Frank818

01-18-2017, 01:41 PM

My plan for the *** end is still up in the air.

So the *** is up in the air. lolll

Canadian818

01-18-2017, 02:55 PM

So the *** is up in the air. lolll

Yes Frank :rolleyes:

Just got back from a local boat store, had a good chat with the guy there and I'm feeling confident I have a better product. Fingers crossed, progress pics coming soon.

Canadian818

01-23-2017, 12:40 PM

Widebody progress.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/2548C40F-9ABC-4EA3-8FA6-6A48B1936A25.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/2548C40F-9ABC-4EA3-8FA6-6A48B1936A25.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/26A2262A-4315-4050-8ABB-AD374E59E7F6.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/26A2262A-4315-4050-8ABB-AD374E59E7F6.jpg.html)

Got a few layers of cloth laid out, and I'm fairly happy with how it all worked out. Next up is to remove it and glass from behind for strength, then reinstall and start shaping it with fairing compound. The scoop area will be a little reshaped to match the door line, but I want the intercooler reinstalled first so I can build the scoop inward for ducting.

I didn't want to cut any other parts yet as this was my first time working with fibreglass and I wasn't sure if I was up to the task. Now that I'm feeling more confident I'm going to begin widening the front and other side sail. Actually starting to feel like there's an end in sight now that I'm making headway on the body! Come one spring! (but not too fast, work to be done!)

Frank818

01-23-2017, 05:02 PM

Man you'll fix those tinny fenders in no time! :)

What are you using to prevent the resin from dropping on the floor and along the fender so it retains its shape?

Canadian818

01-23-2017, 09:01 PM

Man you'll fix those tinny fenders in no time! :)

What are you using to prevent the resin from dropping on the floor and along the fender so it retains its shape?

Wasn't too much of an issues, about 5 mins after I get everything wetted out I smoothed everything over with a spreader to get out the excess resin.

Aero STI

01-23-2017, 09:44 PM

Looking good!

It looks like your top layer may have been woven. I've founded it best to use mat for a layer that will likely get sanded out. The mat is randomly oriented. The woven material is very structured and takes more effort to finish, sometimes requiring a thin layer of resin to be applied to smooth it out before going with filler and primer. Woven gets stronger when you criss cross the pattern. Some detail here: http://www.fibreglast.com/product/the-fundamentals-of-fiberglass/Learning_Center

Canadian818

01-26-2017, 06:56 PM

Thanks Andrew, very interesting read, which lead to google searches and more reading. Different opinions out there on using mat with epoxy. I just started building up the shape using glass beads mixed into epoxy like a filler, kinda neat.

I also started widening the front end, pretty sure I'm the first on this one too (why do I do this to myself?).

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/6A4D197E-7462-45E1-B361-B480F5F8559B.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/6A4D197E-7462-45E1-B361-B480F5F8559B.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/ABF549B1-33D6-4CF1-AEA8-5A6D73F9869A.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/ABF549B1-33D6-4CF1-AEA8-5A6D73F9869A.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/9ED46E5E-1507-449E-9591-736E53B61666.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/9ED46E5E-1507-449E-9591-736E53B61666.jpg.html)

I'm not 100% sure how high to have the fender above the wheel to minimize rub. I want the outside edge to be flush looking down over the fender at the wheel. Any suggestions from those with finished cars?

Frank818

01-26-2017, 07:15 PM

You've widen the WHOLE front too? Good looord...

About fender rub, you gotta test it. Depends on your wheel's diameter, splash guards, FFR frame welding variations, etc.

Canadian818

01-26-2017, 07:53 PM

You've widen the WHOLE front too? Good looord...

About fender rub, you gotta test it. Depends on your wheel's diameter, splash guards, FFR frame welding variations, etc.

I understand that I'll need to test, but a starting point would help me temporarily locate everything before I mess with removing the coilover.

jcpresto

01-26-2017, 08:38 PM

Hi Adam, what are you running upfront? I have a 285/30-18 on the front. 18x9.5 45 offset with 15mm spacer. We added 1.25 inches to the flare if that helps you from a starting point. No rub on compression.

Canadian818

01-26-2017, 08:52 PM

245/40/18 on 18x8.5 +20

Do you mean 1.25" from the top of the tire to the bottom of the flare? Any pics?

Bob_n_Cincy

01-26-2017, 09:41 PM

I'm not 100% sure how high to have the fender above the wheel to minimize rub. I want the outside edge to be flush looking down over the fender at the wheel. Any suggestions from those with finished cars?

Canadian,
I like your widen body. I would go ahead and widen the frame.
I have about 1.5" between front tire and fender. I originally had rub.
To cure it, I'm running 500 springs in the rear to prevent body roll.
I also switched to taller upper ball joints in the front to give me more camber gain. This tucks the tire in during compression. My rear tires could stick out a 1/2" to 3/4" wider
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63267&d=1485484817

Canadian818

01-26-2017, 09:58 PM

Thanks bob! That's about the only thing left to widen, haha. I have 500lb springs out back and 350lb up front. I really want to get the fender as low as possible, but I'll start with around 1.25-1.5" and test fit. I know most remove the spring and go to the bump stop to check clearance, but is it fair to say that if I'm hitting the stops when driving that I need more spring?

Aero STI

01-26-2017, 09:59 PM

The front gap you have now looks pretty similar to mine with the old nose. I think you'll be alright.

http://i.imgur.com/CDpXjbrh.jpg

jcpresto

01-26-2017, 10:58 PM

245/40/18 on 18x8.5 +20

Do you mean 1.25" from the top of the tire to the bottom of the flare? Any pics?

I don't have a pic of it finished. Should be in the next 2 months. I got distracted with building a house. The total flare is additional 1.25 wider. I cut the old flare completely off and started from scratch with a new curve and wider stance on the fender for both front and rear. I can fit about 2 fingers between tire and fender and have -1.6 camber in front. Here is a pic before cut the flares, but it doesn't help to much without drawing the lines in your head. 63268

Canadian818

01-27-2017, 12:40 AM

Thanks guys! jcpresto, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Another question, for anyone who did a single wiper. How much clearance between the windshield and hood did you need?

Bob_n_Cincy

01-27-2017, 03:46 AM

Thanks guys! jcpresto, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Another question, for anyone who did a single wiper. How much clearance between the windshield and hood did you need?

I only have about a 1/4" of clearance. I did not trim my hood at all. I do not have any support lifting the hood in the middle.
I need to add some support because my hood flutters a bit at speed. You can see the end of my wiper travel where the windshield isn't clean.
Bob

63269 63270 63271

Canadian818

01-27-2017, 10:23 AM

Bob_n_Cincy

01-27-2017, 02:47 PM

Thanks as always Bob! 1/4" clearance to the wiper, but at the centre of the hood what's the distance from the hood to the windshield? Looks like around 2"? I don't want to get distracted with a wiper install right now, so I just to to make sure I leave enough room. Thanks
I'll have to take a measurement. But I do know the windshield is all the back in its top slots. Maybe not all the way back in the bottom slots, as I was going for a little more rake in the windshield.
Bob

AZPete

01-28-2017, 10:13 AM

Adam, 1 3/4 inch on mine which is a modified donor mechanism with a single donor wiper arm. I have an adjustable center hood brace.
Pete

Canadian818

01-31-2017, 08:40 PM

Thanks Pete. There's quite a bit of edge I can trim down on the hood so I can stuff a 2x4 (1.5") in there and forget about it for now.

I've been working on the car lots. Unfortunately with bodywork, most of the work can't be relayed with pics. Today I finished structurally widening the front bumper, still need to weld up the modified bumper mounts. I glued and glassed over some studs to support the headlight buckets.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/5FAF7C59-FE33-47E0-B6BC-7318D64D23BA.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/5FAF7C59-FE33-47E0-B6BC-7318D64D23BA.jpg.html)

And now I'm working on reshaping the drivers side scoop to match the body line on the door.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F6002C0F-3959-47B3-AC02-AB78B40BC771.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F6002C0F-3959-47B3-AC02-AB78B40BC771.jpg.html)

Aero STI

01-31-2017, 10:34 PM

The progress looks excellent!

I haven't followed the GTM closely to know if it's the same story, but thinking out loud it seems like quite a few people aren't quite satisfied with the body design of the 818. I wonder if Factory Five looks at a few of the threads currently working on or proposing extensive body mods and takes notice. I think that the design could use additional tweaking.

Frank818

02-01-2017, 08:38 AM

I never thought you'd spend so much time on the body for so many mods. Seems like all the time I spent converting to VR6 Turbo you are spending converting to massive 600 tires front and rear (ok, "just" 305s but that's like 600 loll).

Since this is your 1st attempt on fiberglass, you are doing it like a pro!! I couldn't do that good, always amazed to see when people modify a panel.

flynntuna

02-01-2017, 01:06 PM

Looking good. :cool: It's probably for the best that FFR decided to go with fiberglass panels rather than the thermoformed panels that were originally planned. So much creativity can be unleashed using fiberglass. Looking foward to your next update.

Hindsight

02-01-2017, 01:52 PM

Wow, some very big changes! Can't wait to see it done.

Canadian818

02-01-2017, 03:44 PM

Thanks guys! I'm fairly happy with how it's going. I'm sure FFR keeps an eye on what we're doing, after seeing all the struggle with the headlights they came out with the new nose. I'm not a huge fan of the front of the car, but I do prefer it to the new nose. IMO the back looks the worst, those tail lights just don't do it for me. I have plans to change those too, but I'm not sure if I'll get to it before spring.

I wanted to post this pic in hopes that it helps someone. I first put my bumper on a 1/2" thick board and screwed it down. Then I clamped two 2x6's to the bottom of the frame sticking out. Lay your bumper on this instead of on blocks and it insures your bumper is both inline with your frame and exactly 1/2" up. Also in this pic is my modified upper bumper brackets and the bottom brackets I made.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/BEBCBAA1-82F3-4BA3-B49B-214B2C4BCD3E.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/BEBCBAA1-82F3-4BA3-B49B-214B2C4BCD3E.jpg.html)

flynntuna

02-01-2017, 07:08 PM

I totally agree with you on the front end. I've been considering changing it using the gt40 and Lexus as inspiration.

RetroRacing

02-02-2017, 12:24 PM

I think 996 tail lights would be perfect for this car.

Canadian818

02-02-2017, 01:43 PM

I totally agree with you on the front end. I've been considering changing it using the gt40 and Lexus as inspiration.

Both good options. I think different headlights and hood/fenders moulded together could really change things.

I think 996 tail lights would be perfect for this car.

Hadn't considered those, probably because I don't see many around. I've been eyeing up everything's tail lights to see what might work. IMO our tail lights scream kit car.

flynntuna

02-02-2017, 07:00 PM

I really don't have that much of an issue with the rear of the 818. That said, the tail lights of the corvette and camero are appealing.

Canadian818

02-03-2017, 11:30 PM

I really don't have that much of an issue with the rear of the 818. That said, the tail lights of the corvette and camero are appealing.

They do, however my fear is hearing "oh he moulded in some vette lights". I don't want someone looking at my car like one of those crazy magazine civics from 10-15 years ago.

On with the project. While I continue with the tedious side sail scoop, pictures are kinda pointless. Unless someone wants a bunch of details on how I'm doing it. Keep in mind the first time I ever mixed resin was a couple of weeks ago. The front end is slowly coming along. Bumper is widened and even started filler. Next to be widened is the splitter.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/0C560542-2CE7-4E3F-98AA-8015D63841E6.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/0C560542-2CE7-4E3F-98AA-8015D63841E6.jpg.html)

I realized after taking this pic that it's kinda a trippy allusion with the bumper laying where it is. But the bumper is now installed and I'm very slowly working on headlights. In addition to widening the splitter, I think I'll go ahead and lengthen it too so I can have it stick out 3-4" and rest up against the frame in the back. There will be a seem or two, but I'm hoping to make it as unnoticeable as possible. I could've sold it and made one from scratch, but it's one of the first gen ones with fibreglass backing so it's less desirable. Oh, and I'm in Canada, lol.

So I picked up some carbon fibre today, got excited when the guy rolled it out, total fanboy. I wanted to experiment with it in small pieces to avoid ruining a bunch of expensive fabric. I wrapped a piece around the 3/4" foam I'll be using for my side plates. Wrapped it with release fabric, old towel, put it in some poly, tuck taped the edges, and used my airlift coolant vacuum fitting to suck it all tight. I put resin between the foam and fabric, the theory being it'll soak through and excess will be squeezed out through the release fabric and absorbed into the towel.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/C27DB801-AD06-409B-A7FC-FDC45828BADF.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/C27DB801-AD06-409B-A7FC-FDC45828BADF.jpg.html)

If there's no update tomorrow, I did something wrong.

Scargo

02-04-2017, 06:11 AM

You're a brave man. Ignorance removes a lot of fear and dread...
I just hope we don't find you hopelessly stuck to the car one day.
On that note I wish you the best of luck and congratulate you for your creativity and ingenuity. Going where man has not gone before.
I just returned from the Rolex 24 hours of Daytona and have a lot of ideas. Neat was the cars running at night, lit up like Christmas trees! Lighting options are endless it seems. Since mine is a pure track R, I think I will keep it simple with some horizontal LED bars at the very top. Perhaps just one. I am not going to do too much with lighting as this will start as a daylight only car. The wiring will be there but I'm starting out basic.

Aero STI

02-04-2017, 09:40 AM

Vacuum bagging is the way to go when laying up carbon fiber at home. Resin infusion is icing on the cake. I've done this a handful of times and the parts came out comparable to purchased parts. Of course the materials are expensive and the learning curve is a little steep.

Canadian818

02-04-2017, 03:45 PM

You're a brave man. Ignorance removes a lot of fear and dread...
I just hope we don't find you hopelessly stuck to the car one day.

I'm not sure I'm taking that the right way...

On that note I wish you the best of luck and congratulate you for your creativity and ingenuity. Going where man has not gone before.
I just returned from the Rolex 24 hours of Daytona and have a lot of ideas. Neat was the cars running at night, lit up like Christmas trees! Lighting options are endless it seems. Since mine is a pure track R, I think I will keep it simple with some horizontal LED bars at the very top. Perhaps just one. I am not going to do too much with lighting as this will start as a daylight only car. The wiring will be there but I'm starting out basic.

Thanks, and I look forward to what you come up with.

Vacuum bagging is the way to go when laying up carbon fiber at home. Resin infusion is icing on the cake. I've done this a handful of times and the parts came out comparable to purchased parts. Of course the materials are expensive and the learning curve is a little steep.

I decided after watching videos to just vacuum bag from the start. I don't see the need yet to buy a vacuum pump or specific vacuum bag materials, my setup will work. Resin infusion is the sh!t, but not worth the investment for the first parts I'm making since they're all mere inches off the ground.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/A025B782-910C-4FAF-A573-AB00D2031CB1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/A025B782-910C-4FAF-A573-AB00D2031CB1.jpg.html)

Turned out ok. Lots of excess resin was removed and the top and bottom are nice and flat with no bubbles. The sides didn't cling to the corners like I had hoped. I have a few ideas why, and will experiment more. Also there's a little blue showing through the carbon fibre, I had anticipated this so I'd picked up a little graphite to mix in with some resin for a base coat to put on the foam prior to wrapping it. I'm also going to do a little strength testing to see if one layer will be enough. Also need to figure out if I should clear it from here or add a thin coat of resin and then clear.

Frank818

02-04-2017, 07:47 PM

You really do it the very hard way. :) But after a lot of time once you succeed it'll look so good!

What ducting again will you do for the front rads?

metros

02-04-2017, 07:54 PM

Cool build thread with lots of tweaks to the body that will really set this car apart. I really think they should have widened the rear end like you are. The side scoops look much better with taking an aggressive approach vs latest gen MR2ish.

My biggest complaint about the updated front end is that they didn't select a set of OEM headlights to utilize. Instead we're stuck trying to make the best out of the piecemealed headlight solution. Yes, OEM headlights would add cost. But how much do most of us already have in these cars? Why not throw another 4-600 and have a great looking headlight, which greatly impacts the appearance of the front end - not to mention night time driving safety.

Canadian818

02-04-2017, 09:57 PM

You really do it the very hard way. :) But after a lot of time once you succeed it'll look so good!

What ducting again will you do for the front rads?

I just don't have it in me to accept anything I feel I can improve on. I can't decide on a front cutout for the oil coolers that I like. Need to figure that out soon though, might just start drawing out some options.

Cool build thread with lots of tweaks to the body that will really set this car apart. I really think they should have widened the rear end like you are. The side scoops look much better with taking an aggressive approach vs latest gen MR2ish.

My biggest complaint about the updated front end is that they didn't select a set of OEM headlights to utilize. Instead we're stuck trying to make the best out of the piecemealed headlight solution. Yes, OEM headlights would add cost. But how much do most of us already have in these cars? Why not throw another 4-600 and have a great looking headlight, which greatly impacts the appearance of the front end - not to mention night time driving safety.

Thanks! I might consider making molds of the side sails at a later date if it's something others wanted.

I agree on the oem light thing. I think they had it right with the first gen, just poorly executed, not to slam FFR, I'm sure it's far more difficult then I can imagine. What I like is that the Toyota lights look very different on the 818 then the original car, if one uses a different oem light you'd want to accomplish the same.

Canadian818

02-05-2017, 11:13 PM

After Frank mentioned ducting I just couldn't get it out of my mind. Spent a few hours today making cardboard templates, need to pick up some aluminum tomorrow. Since the only bodywork on the bumper can be done while it's installed, and the fenders don't require any, it can all be installed and left installed until I'm ready to wrap it after registration. Pics on the ducting tomorrow.

Almost finished with reshaping the side scoop to the intercooler, so I decided to cut some foam and start mocking up the side plates. In my head I wanted full width, but now I'm unsure. Might go in an inch, or perhaps add a curve. If left full width I'd make a vertical "fin" at the back to tie into the wheel arch. The front will also have a plate of fin to tie into the front fender as it needs a mount since its to wide now to mount to the side sail. So I'm looking for feedback, both negative and positive.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/AF248168-03AF-408D-A0B5-CE32BD258413.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/AF248168-03AF-408D-A0B5-CE32BD258413.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/6BD294D6-57A9-446D-B53C-66A4B95D2073.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/6BD294D6-57A9-446D-B53C-66A4B95D2073.jpg.html)

Frank818

02-06-2017, 07:05 PM

I wonder how long it'd take Wayne to build a build like yours or mine... and the number is not 7. lolll

Adam, are the door skins fitting without any adjustment?

flynntuna

02-06-2017, 08:31 PM

Frank, Wayne doesn't sand. Lol.

Canadian818

02-06-2017, 09:11 PM

Haha, yeah I'm not sure Wayne would be willing to go this far, lol. Over half my time has been spent staring at the car scratching my head.

Frank, I haven't installed the door skins yet. I have laid then in place with shims over the door frame and seen no reason they will give me any hassle.

Hindsight

02-06-2017, 09:44 PM

Over half my time has been spent staring at the car scratching my head.

This..... so this!!!

Bob_n_Cincy

02-06-2017, 11:45 PM

Over half my time has been spent staring at the car scratching my head.

I think all of first time builders do this. Me included.
Also 1/2 time researching on web or reading forum.
No wonder it takes us so long.
Bob

Frank818

02-07-2017, 08:23 AM

Frank, Wayne doesn't sand. Lol.

Precisely my point. :) He unbolts cam bolts! Where's that picture a couple of years ago, using a 6feet or so rod to remove a cam bolt. lolll

Frank, I haven't installed the door skins yet. I have laid then in place with shims over the door frame and seen no reason they will give me any hassle.

Yeah that was my question, if you test fitted them. Nice to see you didn't affect that area. It's a difficult area, every time you install the doors they fall at a different place, different angle and you waste 5-6h trying to re-align them, not understanding what the hell changed since last time. I understand Mike when he had to issue after his resgistration.

Canadian818

02-08-2017, 10:39 PM

The nice thing about my doors Frank, is that there no where near my fenders, lol.

So here's the ducting for my oil coolers that Frank made me do, haha

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/11B9851C-6689-4CD1-A101-31849D8E9E37.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/11B9851C-6689-4CD1-A101-31849D8E9E37.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/A2B65137-ED85-4DD9-952E-D4F24E66FA22.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/A2B65137-ED85-4DD9-952E-D4F24E66FA22.jpg.html)

And here's what I'm thinking about for front bumper cutouts. It's a slight tweak on the FFR design.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8377F643-25FB-4D4E-91A6-8AB69674F4AE.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8377F643-25FB-4D4E-91A6-8AB69674F4AE.jpg.html)

I'm more of a functional guy, if I'm designing or fabricating something all I think of is what works best versus what looks good. Just don't have an eye for it I guess. I feel like if I look at something too much I start second guessing myself. But when I don't second guess myself I end up being to hasty and wishing I hadn't done it. So I'm going to sleep on the cutouts, decide if I like them tomorrow. Please comment if you think it looks good or not, even if it's just meh. Same goes for the side boards, which I still can't decide on.

Frank818

02-09-2017, 08:57 AM

Nice ducts, man! Not sure those 2 openings will enough but those are oil coolers, not coolant, you probably need less.
No fans, right?

Scargo

02-09-2017, 09:23 AM

I think I'm in agreement with both of you. I like the adage of form follows function. Having just returned from the Rolex 24 hours and looking at all the cars, and older race cars on display, I have a slightly changed perspective.
I'd say place the inlet more like where the small rectangle is drawn. More "in the face" of oncoming air. Start out with the opening no larger that the area cooled. Let the front stay closed as much as possible. Otherwise air going in has to come out somewhere and that is tricky. The 818's frame does not allow for much air to exit behind the wheels. If it shoots out of the hood then it can disrupt the effectiveness of the wing. Just thinking outloud.

Canadian818

02-09-2017, 10:27 AM

I decided to wait and see if the fans are needed. There's lots of clearance behind the cooler to add a fan if needed.

Scargo, I totally get what your saying. My reasoning for where the duct is that 2" lip that's going to catch air anyway, and cause turbulence for the canards. So I thought opening that up would relive some of that turbulence. There will also be some grill material there which should help with and air spill over flowing past. I tried drawing out some ideas for cutouts more on the front, but nothing looked right, however like Frank said, this might not be enough opening anyway. My fenders are wide enough that venting through the wheel well shouldn't be a problem, and I have mechie's fender louvers.

RetroRacing

02-09-2017, 02:41 PM

Too much air in the front bumper section will create a ton of lift/less down force, and our car at least, under steers like the dickens. the thing is air control, not amount. A small amount of air forced through to the exact point that you need it is way more effective that just a bunch of air. I would go with the most direct route, start small and leave yourself somewhere to go, in that you can install a larger, "pretty" screen on the nose, covering a smaller hole where you can direct the air to where you need it, black out the area behind the screen and adjust accordingly as you test. It is WAY easier to remove than replace.

frankc5r

02-09-2017, 04:39 PM

An old rule I remember is the opening to feed for example, a radiator should be about 1/7 the area of the face of cooler.

Frank818

02-09-2017, 07:08 PM

An old rule I remember is the opening to feed for example, a radiator should be about 1/7 the area of the face of cooler.

Now that's interesting to know. I see Porsche's ducts, here.

Canadian818

02-09-2017, 07:16 PM

Thanks everyone for the input, really glad I didn't jump the gun on the cutting. I do like the idea of cutting a little now, more later if needed. Here's idea 2.0

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/B412E3BB-696D-4CB4-B6D6-02BDC302F394.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/B412E3BB-696D-4CB4-B6D6-02BDC302F394.jpg.html)

The recessed rectangular section would actually feed the radiator, so I'm going leave that for now. The small horizontal strip would be a strait shot at the cooler, easily enlarged. I also have a vertical strip in the recessed corner, I don't know why I'm so hung up on that arear but I'm convinced it's going to cause drag and turbulence. I think I'm going to do the whole area in black, so I'm no longer considering what looks best. What do you guys think?

Also my revised scoop is now molded to the intercooler. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Next up is fitting the fuel cap somewhere ahead of the intercooler by the door latch. Not the nicest place to put it, but no other options really.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/09E69BDF-A849-4B2E-9F52-E14F1ECB70EE.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/09E69BDF-A849-4B2E-9F52-E14F1ECB70EE.jpg.html)

RetroRacing

02-10-2017, 11:30 AM

63870

Good choice!:cool:

Canadian818

02-12-2017, 03:54 PM

Working on mounting the widened splitter today...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/97F3DD0A-E8AF-4DE8-BB79-EF810AFC6115.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/97F3DD0A-E8AF-4DE8-BB79-EF810AFC6115.jpg.html)

Need to lengthen it a few inches so it goes to the rear of the bumper.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/ADF2AD72-F76B-4D28-BBB5-18B3CFEC4C27.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/ADF2AD72-F76B-4D28-BBB5-18B3CFEC4C27.jpg.html)

How's everyone attaching theirs? How many bolts? Reinforcement? This is what I have done so far. I'll add a bolt or two at the back edge of the fender once I add some material to the splitter there.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/C301C14C-D37C-4AED-B6E4-38256D85D774.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/C301C14C-D37C-4AED-B6E4-38256D85D774.jpg.html)

I want the splitter removable with the bumper installed, and I don't trust rivnuts, so I'm going to weld some nuts to flat washers and glass them into the bumper.

Frank818

02-12-2017, 05:20 PM

Canadian818

02-12-2017, 05:40 PM

Yeah that looks pretty good on the splitter. I have fitted an 1/4-20 at the very far end closest to the wheels, bolting to the oh wait you got the old nose right? Forget this comment then.

You could however fit some bolts and brackets like Jeff did, just before the steering to hold the rear end of the splitter. Is yours the 1st gen CF or vacuum CF?

It's the 1st gen wet layup with fibreglass mat backing. Looks decent though, just not if you put a light behind it. So no underglows for me, haha. I'll attach it in the middle in the back once it's installed. I think I'm going to add some layers from the front and in 6" to support the mounting area. I'll have to at least install a couple of struts to support the centre section.

longislandwrx

02-13-2017, 08:21 AM

i bet if you recessed it a little/flush mounted and got creative you could hide the fuel filler in the door jamb

Hindsight

02-13-2017, 09:28 AM

How's everyone attaching theirs? How many bolts? Reinforcement? This is what I have done so far. I'll add a bolt or two at the back edge of the fender once I add some material to the splitter there.

I did it about like you did with bolts into the bumper - about the same number of bolts. I added a piece of aluminum angle at the back which ties into the radiator frame via rivnuts. I also added some support struts to the front side (four in total). I have detailed pics in my build thread (should be on the last page or two).

Canadian818

02-13-2017, 10:26 AM

i bet if you recessed it a little/flush mounted and got creative you could hide the fuel filler in the door jamb

That's an awesome idea! I've actually ordered a motorcycle flush mount vented cap, and was going to put it just above the scoop. But I like this door jam idea, I might do that, thanks!

I did it about like you did with bolts into the bumper - about the same number of bolts. I added a piece of aluminum angle at the back which ties into the radiator frame via rivnuts. I also added some support struts to the front side (four in total). I have detailed pics in my build thread (should be on the last page or two).

How much did you stick yours out? I'm at 4" at the closest to centre point the bumper is touching the splitter.

Hindsight

02-13-2017, 02:56 PM

3.5" at that point.

Canadian818

02-16-2017, 01:07 AM

I seriously can't for the life of me figure out what FFR were thinking when they designed this fender/headlight/bumper area. Just unnecessarily over complicated, everything fights everything. No point in complaining I guess, they realized it didn't work well and redesigned. Anyway, after longer than I'd like to admit they're in, with relatively acceptable gaps. I had to cut off and make new brackets to mount them (got the idea from someone else on here, kurk818 maybe), and on one side I added an aluminum turnbuckle in order to get the outside rear corner to stay out.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/7EBBD8F5-C27C-43DD-8B0D-11E5750362B1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/7EBBD8F5-C27C-43DD-8B0D-11E5750362B1.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/BCBBAF2F-5F4F-4ED8-873B-2F339362E8E0.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/BCBBAF2F-5F4F-4ED8-873B-2F339362E8E0.jpg.html)

I then spent an hour looking for my twine so I could square up the wheels and fix the rear of the front fenders but eventually gave up. I was also annoyed that the lower sections of the windshield frame fibreglass weren't trimmed remotely close and the rear upper tip/corner of the front fenders are quite different left to right. Frustrating for sure.

So I moved to the back and began planning my wing mount. Mounting the wing isn't exactly a priority right now, but I plan to use it to support and secure the engine cover, catch can, wiring, etc. Plan is to make the horizontal pieces out of rectangular aluminum, and the vertical pieces aluminum round tube with heim joints so it can be tweeked level. It'll be connected at the back just under the bumper lip so the bumper can also be supported. This will allow me to push/pull the rear bumper so it lines up with the trunk for a decent gap.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/5B74FE6B-1729-49E3-BFC7-19CAB9A6F388.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/5B74FE6B-1729-49E3-BFC7-19CAB9A6F388.jpg.html)

And since I had to take out the wing to get measurements for mounting I decided to get an idea where I'd like to mount it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/C2E54A06-01A3-4891-BE4E-5DC5E92EB025.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/C2E54A06-01A3-4891-BE4E-5DC5E92EB025.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/099C6F2C-2E0F-421B-8B7C-D12D68FD493F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/099C6F2C-2E0F-421B-8B7C-D12D68FD493F.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/5A8B32D8-D41F-48CF-A575-742EAB5C2C8E.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/5A8B32D8-D41F-48CF-A575-742EAB5C2C8E.jpg.html)

First pic is roughly where it would sit using the supplied stanchions mounted on the trunk. IMO a terrible height as it's inline with both the windshield and roll bar. So I'll either make or have cut some taller ones, up 4-6" from here. I had originally planned to mount the wing on linear actuators and make it so at a flip of a switch I could go from wild to mild. But this build is taking way to long, so I'm just going to have two different height stanchions and switch out when going to the track. I really like the look of a big race wing mounted low, and I think it really works with the big round fenders. So either of the other two pics will be my "street" height.

My goal is to have the body fitted and all the fibreglass mods done by the end of the month so I can move on to wiring in lights, fans, etc, and sort out the cooling system. I'm also going to rebuild the engine, but depending on the cooling problems I may get it registered before rebuilding.

Bob_n_Cincy

02-16-2017, 03:17 AM

I seriously can't, for the life of me, figure out what FFR was thinking .

Hey Adam
Can I get that quote on a t-Shirt.

Keep up the good work. I think you are working as hard as anybody on the list.

Mike and I are taking a break from the 818's this winter to work on another project. I will share it in a month or 2.
Bob

Canadian818

02-16-2017, 09:42 AM

Hey Adam
Can I get that quote on a t-Shirt.

Keep up the good work. I think you are working as hard as anybody on the list.

Mike and I are taking a break from the 818's this winter to work on another project. I will share it in a month or 2.
Bob

I would love to see that on a shirt! Thanks, and I can't wait to see what you're cooking up, any hints?

Canadian818

02-18-2017, 03:35 PM

And the puzzle starts to come together! Hood surgery underway. I'm also going to cut the other side sail so I can glass them both up the same time. Snow is melting, I can't wait to go kart this thing soon!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/209CB79C-8CD0-445C-B15B-7E5266C44365.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/209CB79C-8CD0-445C-B15B-7E5266C44365.jpg.html)

Mitch Wright

02-18-2017, 06:01 PM

The project is looking great.
Did the same thing with the headlights, beat my head against the wall for a day or 2 through the Manuel away cut the tabs off and made my own. And they fit the way they should.

Hindsight

02-18-2017, 10:01 PM

So ambitious with the body mods. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Aero STI

02-19-2017, 09:08 PM

Still looking great. What brand/model wing did you purchase?

Canadian818

02-19-2017, 09:22 PM

Thanks guys! The wing is the APR GT300, the one FFR sells for the GTM and 818R. Had I known I was going to go widebody I would've gotten a wider wing, oh well.

Frank818

02-20-2017, 08:19 AM

You can still modify your wing and make it wider. :) Don't ask me how, you're the "widening" pro, here. lolll

Canadian818

02-22-2017, 03:33 PM

You can still modify your wing and make it wider. :) Don't ask me how, you're the "widening" pro, here. lolll

I think I'm done with widening for now, lol.

Each panel I put on gets me more excited. It's amazing how long it takes to position everything just right.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/DE2C2911-9BD6-4666-8EF3-9E43C4A4F312.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/DE2C2911-9BD6-4666-8EF3-9E43C4A4F312.jpg.html)
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/3B163303-C14A-4E61-A81C-020821BA256F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/3B163303-C14A-4E61-A81C-020821BA256F.jpg.html)

This angle is a head scratcher, can't figure out if it looks bad or not bad at all. The crease that goes up the fender, along the door and into the scoop obviously doesn't line up since the front is widened. In hindsight I would've just modified the fenders versus the hood and bumper, but so is life. I've considered sanding down the crease, either in the fender, or the door, or both. The door one does feed nicely into the scoop so it finishes well, but doesn't come from anywhere. Any thoughts?

flynntuna

02-22-2017, 10:22 PM

Had to read your post a couple times to see what you meant. Unless you point it out I didn't even notice it. I think your choice of mirrors can mask the difference in the crease.

Canadian818

02-23-2017, 10:54 AM

Had to read your post a couple times to see what you meant. Unless you point it out I didn't even notice it. I think your choice of mirrors can mask the difference in the crease.

That's a good point, maybe I should reconsider my mirror choice. I was going to get a set of APR carbon GT3 style mirrors, but maybe I should go with a bigger OEM mirror. I think someone here used s2000 mirrors, now to find them...

Aero STI

02-23-2017, 08:59 PM

I think it looks fine. Hard to notice. I'm using S2000 mirrors and copied from someone else. Two complete assemblies were not that expensive.

RetroRacing

02-27-2017, 12:33 PM

I like it, adds interest in my opinion. Wait until you wrap it!

Harley818

02-28-2017, 01:14 AM

Adam, I've been gone too long and now I as I catch up with build threads I see i missed some awesome work. Wow.
Funny, I just cut off the tabs on my headlights after repeatedly having issues with the fit. I actually got so frustrated I took out the lights, lined it all up, and now going back to force the lights in.
I ended up bonding some attachment points on below the lights and will now try what you did to rotate the light into position.
Guess what the tabs were in the way all along.
On the body line issue, I agree with flynntuna, the mirrors choice can hide the difference.
Looking good. keep it up.

Canadian818

02-28-2017, 11:00 AM

Aero STI

02-28-2017, 10:09 PM

Thanks guys! No pics today, just been busy shaping the passenger side scoop and hood, and sanding, and filling, and sanding some more. I see it's going to be a challenge to get nice gaps with this body, everything is lining up but the gaps are far from even along the length of each panel.

Check out this whole thread for ideas on evening up panel gaps if you haven't already. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11586-Honolulu-818S-Hana-(work-build)-Thread

Canadian818

02-28-2017, 11:30 PM

Check out this whole thread for ideas on evening up panel gaps if you haven't already. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11586-Honolulu-818S-Hana-(work-build)-Thread

One of the best build threads, I've gone back to it a few times.

Can anyone tell me if there's any relays used for the wipers? My harness is all cut up, the wire colours match but some of them are a different gauge so it makes me think that it's not direct from the column to the motor. My battery was dead (forgot to put the tender on), so I wasn't able to figure out if the switch gets power through the ignition or one of my yet to identify wires to the switch. Once I know that I'll be able to wire in the fuse.

STiPWRD

03-01-2017, 08:12 AM

Looks like no relay:
64568

Canadian818

03-01-2017, 10:25 AM

Looks like no relay:
64568

Thanks!

Canadian818

04-08-2017, 04:20 PM

Finally faced the music today. I knew, and everyone told me that when you buy a used rotary that a rebuild is pretty much mandatory. A little part of me hoped it would be strong enough to get it registered and then rebuild it, but I don't think that's an option with only one rotor and weak at that. I've done a lot of work on it recently, and was excited to start showing it all off, but no driving it anytime soon.

Here's a little video of my compression tests, I thought it was neat with slo-mo how you can clearly see the different faces of the rotor compressing. I'm not sure, but I believe Mazda's spec is around 110psi and obviously little to no difference between them.

https://youtu.be/yx_OV_p2YZA

I think I'll continue on with my body fitment, I'll update my progress soon.

iblackwe

04-08-2017, 06:49 PM

turbomacncheese

04-08-2017, 06:59 PM

Canadian818

04-08-2017, 07:54 PM

Well Adam I am sorry to hear that, but if it makes you feel better this was my third time pulling the motor from the car this last time from a cooling issue. Us Edmontonians don't have any motor luck eh? Best of luck with the rebuild, if you ever need a hand let me know, I have always wanted to see how a rotary motor is rebuilt.

Not sure if I'm going to rebuild it myself or not. There's a pretty strong rotary community here, and a reputable builder offered to rebuild and port it for a very reasonable price. He also reluctantly agreed to let me watch it be assembled. So I'll probably go with him so I have some piece of mind. You should definitely come by for a beer and check it out though.

Canadian818

04-08-2017, 08:56 PM

Upside, you're correct. The slo-mo was pretty cool. Also probably won't make you feel any better, I was hoping to get my car registered with the used engine, and like you have to rebuild it first instead. And it's not even a rotary.

I think we all hope that. We repair/replace just about every other part, nickel and dime our budget out the window and then cross our fingers on the engine. Kit car life I guess.

Canadian818

04-23-2017, 12:40 PM

Been making progress, slow and steady. I decided since I didn't widen the rear bumper I should try to make my life as difficult as possible and try to use different taillights. Someone put FRS taillights on a GTM flipped upside down and switched sides. I liked the look, and thought it would suit the 818 body lines even better. Eventually I'll buy some smoked LED lights, but I picked up these oem ones for $100 locally for now.

To aid in locating them and minimize the effort in cutting out the bumper I made a mold of the light.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/4C49EFEA-B9A1-432D-BCD5-AD8E11C662B1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/4C49EFEA-B9A1-432D-BCD5-AD8E11C662B1.jpg.html)

Then painted it black and taped it on.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/DC44DD39-F3A8-4149-BBF3-521E409D8594.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/DC44DD39-F3A8-4149-BBF3-521E409D8594.jpg.html)

And here's some sketches I did planning the bumper cutouts. The top one is what I'm leaning towards, however I'm going to change up the slots a bit.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/42133A6E-969B-4C14-8C50-D732CFD5F206.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/42133A6E-969B-4C14-8C50-D732CFD5F206.jpg.html)

Any feedback on the cutouts would be helpful, with so many options it's hard to decide what looks best.

flynntuna

04-23-2017, 02:15 PM

AZPete

04-23-2017, 02:53 PM

Same here - the one on the top is cool.

Canadian818

04-23-2017, 03:40 PM

Of the three I like the top one too. I wonder though if you'll get a whistling with the narrow sits . Great idea on the tail lights.

Now are you integrating a wing on that intercooler box over the trunk.:rolleyes:

Haha, I knew I should've taken another pic without the box. If I can hear any whistling my engine is blown, lol. I got to hear some street ported rotaries this weekend at a drift event, wind noise isn't a worry.

Mechie3

04-24-2017, 10:41 AM

I like the overall idea of the top one, but not a big fan of the straight slots. It looks a bit 1980's to me.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/SrLlCAtFIgc/hqdefault.jpg

RetroRacing

04-24-2017, 10:54 AM

Arrowsteel

05-06-2017, 11:16 PM

Canadian818

05-07-2017, 02:11 PM

We just rebuilt 4 street ports for our EP cars after years of people telling us that it was rocket science. It is not. Before you pull it though, it looks like you may just have some stuck seals. you can try running some 2 stroke oil through it, or last resort, some ATF. If you use ATF, you need to run 2 stroke right after that, as ATF and the o rings don't get along well. You don't need it running when you do it, but is better if you do. I should start right up once you have some 2 stroke in there.

We run carbs, so not sure what it will do to sensors.

If you do decide to rebuild your own, you will need to invest is some special tools (Mazdatrix and Atkins have what you need), I would not suggest learning from someone, as guys have a tendency to take short cuts and teach bad habbits. Clean, Clean, Clean, then Measure everything! clearances make all of the difference, as to long a side seal will bind (bad) and too short a side seal will cost you compression (bad).

BTW, we had a stock turbo housing ceramic coated for a project we never completed if you have any interest.

Rotary+Subaru= :p

I often check the forum on my phone when I'm out, or at work, just to see what everyone is up to. I know I read this, but wherever or whatever I was doing at the time I must have skimmed through it. When I noticed Arrowsteel's new post I read back to see where things left off and re-read your post. Then I proceeded to spend an hour reading about stuck seals, and you may have just saved me from waiting to rebuild!

I had visually inspected the apex seals through the exhaust ports before the engine went in, and they were intact but everything had lots of carbon build up. So later today I'm going to pull the exhaust/turbo/manifold and physically inspect the seals to see if they're stuck. The rear rotor has great compression, so a comparison should be easy. Marvel Miracle Oil seems to be a popular choice versus ATF, so I'll try that after an initial clean with carb cleaner and a brush from the exhaust port. Plan is to just hand crank it a few times to get it everywhere and leave it overnight. Then another compression test tomorrow.

Thanks for the suggestion! Fingers crossed, I still need to test the coolant system for exhaust gases, but if this works I could be test driving it this week!

Canadian818

05-07-2017, 02:16 PM

I just came over to this forum from the "other FFR " forum. I'm glad to see other people are using rotary engines in their builds.
I'm currently building a rotary powered GTM and was wondering if anyone has a driving rotary powered 818 yet.
Robert GTM 407 & 427

Can you post a link to your build thread? I'd love to check it out. Have you seen the SLC with the three rotor? Upon seeming that I immediately thought someone needs to do that to a GTM!

Arrowsteel

05-07-2017, 05:28 PM

I've made a few post on the GTM forum and they should be easy to find.
This is the link:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/#/topics/598913?page=1
Robert GTM 407 & 427

Arrowsteel

05-07-2017, 06:41 PM

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/#/topics/598913?page=1

Arrowsteel

05-07-2017, 08:36 PM

This forum is not allowing my links to be posted... :-(

frankc5r

05-07-2017, 09:32 PM

I suspect your picture size is too big. Think
1024 x 768 is max.

Harley818

05-07-2017, 11:29 PM

good luck Adam. Hope its just the seals.

Arrowsteel

05-07-2017, 11:58 PM

It appears I can't post web links to this site.
anyway, if anyone is interested in following my rotary GTM build its on the other forum.
Robert GTM #407 & 427

Harley818

05-08-2017, 12:23 AM

It appears I can't post web links to this site.
anyway, if anyone is interested in following my rotary GTM build its on the other forum.
Robert GTM #407 & 427

You need a minimum of at least 10 posts before you can post pics etc. I think its 10.

Canadian818

05-08-2017, 02:03 AM

It appears I can't post web links to this site.
anyway, if anyone is interested in following my rotary GTM build its on the other forum.
Robert GTM #407 & 427

Here's your link, good luck with the build!

Rotary GTM build discussion (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/598913-rotary-powered-gtm.html)

So you're going to use a 13b? What porting, turbo, transmission are you thinking of using?

Canadian818

05-08-2017, 02:07 AM

good luck Adam. Hope its just the seals.

Thanks Harley, I didn't get to it today. I figured if I'm unsuccessful then I wouldn't want to reinstall the turbo and exhaust to fab up heat shielding so I worked on that. Mostly done, so I should get to it tomorrow.

Arrowsteel

05-08-2017, 10:45 AM

I'm running a 13B with a Cartech blow though turbo set up. It runs 2 Webber downdrafts a 48 and a 44. There is no ECU on this set up. It runs 3 coils and a MSD box for the leading plugs and as a rev limiter. Engine was dynoed at around 450 HP. Trans is a 6 speed cable shifted WRX trans out of a 2017 STI...
Robert GTM # 407 & 427

Arrowsteel

05-08-2017, 10:51 AM

The link you posted is old, the new link has pictures of my build.
I tried to load it but still no luck.

longislandwrx

05-08-2017, 03:55 PM

67579

middle

Canadian818

05-08-2017, 05:32 PM

The link you posted is old, the new link has pictures of my build.
I tried to load it but still no luck.

Fixed it. That's gonna be sick!

67579

middle

Thanks. I'm really glad I waited to cut it, still not sure what I like best. Been meaning to draw up a few more.

Canadian818

05-09-2017, 01:06 PM

Small update. Removed the exhaust/turbo/manifold this morning to inspect the apex seals like I had mentioned before. Since the rear rotor's compression was good I could compare the two and see the difference. The rear rotor seals springed back as they should, and front rotor seals barely compressed and any spring back was unnoticeable. So, some cleaning and lube should bring back compression.

When I first looked in the exhaust ports there was some greenish fluid pooled in the housings. My first thought was coolant, but it could've been gas since it has been premixed with 2-stroke oil. I soaked it up with a shop towel, it wasn't much, just needed to know what it was. It kinda smelled like gas, but it wasn't flammable. I had let the injectors fire briefly before doing my compression tests a few weeks ago to lube everything, so in theory it could be what remains of the 2-stroke oil after the gas has evaporated. But more than likely it's coolant, as it is a used engine that's been sitting for years and has stuck seals.

I'll do a quick pressure and vacuum test of the coolant system, but my hopes of not rebuilding right away are pretty much shot.

RetroRacing

05-09-2017, 01:54 PM

Just wait and get it running at low boost, once you have your stuck seals dealt with. The thing might just seal up again when you get it up to temp, our bridges do that all the time.

Good luck!

Canadian818

05-09-2017, 03:05 PM

Just wait and get it running at low boost, once you have your stuck seals dealt with. The thing might just seal up again when you get it up to temp, our bridges do that all the time.

Good luck!

I pressurized the coolant system to 15psi and it held fine, and I remembered the first time I filled it that it held vacuum fine. Another thing I remembered is that most of the coolant had been drained to modify my rear rad cap housing and change my rad, so how would coolant get into the housing during my compression tests if the water pump had only residual coolant to attempt to pressuriz? So it probably was just oil.

Sprayed each seal with carb cleaner, got them moving better, and then covered them with MMO. I put a bunch of MMO in both housings and cranked it backwards by hand a bunch to get it everywhere, especially on the side/corner seals. I'll probably put a bit more in this evening, hand crank some more, and then do a compression test in the morning. If it's a bit better, then I'll start reinstalling everything and fire her up!

Thanks for the advice, always appreciated!

Canadian818

05-09-2017, 03:11 PM

67579

middle

I didn't notice the change initially, thought it was the one I had posted. I think the modified centre one you did does look better, thanks for taking the time! It does however vent less, which makes me torn on the form vs function debate I struggle with. With the side scoops larger, my engine bay will be more pressurized than anyone else's, so I need to maximize my venting. I'm almost second guessing the new taillights, but I've yet to find a better option.

Frank818

05-09-2017, 05:19 PM

Any recent pix of where you're at with the car?
Been a while for the last ones. :)

Canadian818

05-09-2017, 05:23 PM

Any recent pix of where you're at with the car?
Been a while for the last ones. :)

I started making videos, to be posted soon.

Frank818

05-09-2017, 05:50 PM

Oh that's even better! loll
Time lapsed vids like Tamra?

Canadian818

05-09-2017, 06:02 PM

Oh that's even better! loll
Time lapsed vids like Tamra?

A little time lapse, but mostly me talking about the car and what I'm doing with it. Plan is to make small vids tackling different tasks and how this amateur does it. There's also a lot of small details that don't come across well by just posting pics,

Canadian818

05-10-2017, 11:22 AM

It worked! Not to get ahead of myself, but after just a few cranks of the starter compression jumped from the previous 5-5-30psi to 70-70-80psi. So I'm going to put everything back together, fill the coolant, and get her running again, this time with some front compression and both rear plugs firing! Hopefully a few heat cycles will free up the seals a little more and compression will get closer to an even 90psi across the board.

RetroRacing

05-10-2017, 11:23 AM

Whooooohooooooo!!!

RetroRacing

05-10-2017, 11:26 AM

Canadian818

05-10-2017, 02:21 PM

Premix your two stroke at 6oz per gallon for a few tank fulls, with some injection cleaner. If you are still running a metering pump, mix fuel at 2-3oz per gallon. Two stoke burns clean, oil from the metering pump, not so much.

OMP is long gone, premixed 94 is what I'm using. I don't recall what ratio I mixed it at, but definitely not that much. Are you saying to run a lot of premix initially and then tone it down?

RetroRacing

05-10-2017, 03:18 PM

Yup, it will help loosen everything up, just 2-3 tanks worth, then back to 4.5oz per 5 gallons.

Canadian818

05-10-2017, 04:15 PM

Yup, it will help loosen everything up, just 2-3 tanks worth, then back to 4.5oz per 5 gallons.

Ok cool, that makes sense. I'll be sure to do that. Just realized I need a new exhaust manifold gasket, so it might be next week before I get everything buttoned up for a start. Still lots to do, pitter patter....

Arrowsteel

05-11-2017, 02:58 PM

Canadian818

05-11-2017, 04:19 PM

Not sure if you know this but there's a company called RotaryAviation that makes a adapter plate for about $135 that goes behind the injector pump that alows you to run 2 stroke oil out of a remote resivoir and it utilizes the stock oil injection pump. That way you can run a synthetic oil in the crankcase and inject a clean burning 2 stroke oil in the combustion chambers...
Robert GTM 407 & 427

I know so little about rotaries other than the REW that I don't even know where their injector pumps are, lol, I just know efi. I did however know that someone makes an omp adapter like you said to run 2 stroke via a separate reservoir. IMO it's still not the best choice for performance, and you have to remember to keep topping it up. The biggest draw to pre-mixing is that I know the housings are being lubricated, and far more evenly than with the OMP which could fail without knowing. It certainly adds some inconveniences to refilling, but this will never be a daily driver.

Canadian818

05-16-2017, 10:21 PM

Like I mentioned I started filming my progress on the car. After doing a few projects I realized I should do an intro video. It's a bit winded, but I wanted to touch on a bit of everything. I have a some actual tasks filmed, just need to do some editing. For anyone that takes the time to watch it, thanks, and let me know what you think.

https://youtu.be/reyaWZqTB_0

Bob_n_Cincy

05-16-2017, 11:12 PM

^^^Like^^^ Great to put a face with a name.

Mitch Wright

05-17-2017, 08:22 AM

Great video, I enjoyed it just like I have enjoyed watching your build thread.

AZPete

05-17-2017, 09:49 AM

Adam, I enjoyed it. Keep them coming. I also admire your guts diving into the rotary pool, then the wide body pond.

Canadian818

05-17-2017, 06:29 PM

Thanks guys! I was worried it was a bit winded, but I had a lot to say, lol. On another good note, I have the car up and running! My coolant mods seemed to have worked, however I'm now being limited to my abilities with the ecu. Tuning idle isn't going as easily as the manual led me to believe, and I can't seem to get the ecu to turn on the fans. Very frustrating, especially since I decided to quit coffee on Monday and am suffering with some serious irritability, lol.

longislandwrx

05-19-2017, 06:15 AM

quit coffee? oh man. good luck.

Canadian818

05-19-2017, 09:37 AM

quit coffee? oh man. good luck.

Ha, no kidding. Today I'm doing a first aid course, not sure this can be done without coffee, lol.

Frank818

05-19-2017, 06:25 PM

quit coffee? oh man. good luck.

Easier to quit than alcool.

Frank818

05-19-2017, 06:27 PM

About the vid, how did you manage to find the time to make such a nice vid considering the amount of work you need to put on the car?
I can't even check this forum more than 1-2 a week now, no time at all for my own vids. You are a true God. :)

Tarmac

05-19-2017, 08:19 PM

Adam,

I really enjoyed your presentation. I hope that the rx7 motor and builds works out for you!

I will continue to read and watch along as you post.

Paul

Canadian818

05-19-2017, 10:29 PM

Thanks Frank and Paul! Lots more video coming soon. I find doing a video actually keeps me very goal orientated, as opposed to my usual "do a little of this, oh right I forgot that, do some of that" ending up with nothing finished. As far as editing, I have a 10 month old who requires supervision but not always my attention, so when she's playing by herself good I grab the laptop. The editing has been fun to learn.

alpine227

05-19-2017, 11:16 PM

Canadian818

05-20-2017, 09:53 PM

Good video! Great point the internet has some great diy write ups for our hobby and video's. Some. Aren't so good but some are fantastic and given me some confidence to go out on a few limbs and make it my own. I was a bit disappointed you didn't say ah alot, but I guess the bread basket doesn't have the same accent as the St Lawrence region I am used to. Great build and i hope the car can handle the weight of your giant gentlemen's ornaments you must clearly have based on the extensive body and engine modifications you jumped into.

Thanks! Sorry to disappoint on the accent, I actually do say "ah" and "right?" a lot, but I became painfully aware after a couple of takes and tried not to. It's charm turns to annoying fast, lol, just listen to any speech from our prime minister. I'm not sure it's giant ornaments or just not knowing what I'm getting into, but thanks for the compliments!

Canadian818

05-20-2017, 11:13 PM

Does this sound like a bad throwout bearing to anyone? It sounds like I'm hearing the clutch slip on the flywheel as it engages, but it's louder than it should be. Old clutch, unknown history, new flywheel.

https://youtu.be/gjDmkvZyUYk

alpine227

05-22-2017, 05:57 AM

My tob makes noise with clutch depressed. Yours seems more clutch flywheel noise. Is the 13B alive and well now?

Canadian818

05-22-2017, 11:25 AM

Is the 13B alive and well now?

It's alive, but it's too soon to say it's "well".

Canadian818

05-25-2017, 07:26 AM

https://youtu.be/pJhIZAfxx4A

Made a little video while I wired up my fans. It wasn't until after startup that I realized my ecu signal is a switched ground versus switched power, so I had to change the wire locations at the relay. Below is my little diagram, top is for switched ground, bottom is for switched 12v.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/40B4763D-2C27-4384-9379-AD772DB62926.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/40B4763D-2C27-4384-9379-AD772DB62926.jpg.html)

My current work schedule doesn't allow time to work on the car, but does give me time to edit videos. So I'll finish up a couple more, and then I can edit a good startup video which may or may not include a short drive!

Harley818

05-27-2017, 01:29 AM

Adam,
I liked your video (first one).
Same philosophy as me..... I'm willing to learn and try new things, and have some fun in the process.
With the stuff available now on the internet and support from a forum like this one, its been enjoyable..... a journey.
Thanks man. Keep it up.
If I make it to Edmonchuck I'll be sure to call you.

Frank818

05-27-2017, 05:44 PM

I'm sad we don't live close by, I'd love to use your help on my build, you learning from my build experience for yours and then me help you on your build, learning from your build experience for mine. Damn that's too bad. :(

Canadian818

05-28-2017, 07:29 AM

Thanks Harley! Definitely let me know if you're ever in Edmonton, and likewise if I'm ever that far west I'd love to see your car.

Frank, I couldn't agree more, it's a shame all of us Canadians are so spread out.

Canadian818

05-29-2017, 07:32 AM

https://youtu.be/B7ynrpN11n8

Frank818

05-29-2017, 01:34 PM

COOOOOOOOL!!!!!!!!!

You ceramic painted the exhaust and then wrapped, I didn't think about that, damn! :( I just wrapped, but starting at the muffler I was out of lava wrap so I just ceramic painted it. I don't know if I should buy more wrap and wrap it all over.

So you're a biker too!

RetroRacing

05-29-2017, 02:25 PM

Same here on the left coast, we have the 818 on the hoist, two RX7's under and behind, and a HD bobber buried under parts bins at the front! So, from one rotary-818-HD crew to another, we salute you!

Harley818

06-13-2017, 12:29 AM

Scargo

06-13-2017, 08:25 AM

I am curious about the soaking and theoretical shrinking. I can absolutely see doing this wetting to keep down dust. I use a fan to lightly blow across what I'm wrapping and I wear gloves.
Because of the materials involved it's hard for me to believe the material shrinks due to getting wet.
I like this double-thick wrap. (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T0V8XG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) If you tend to double-wrap areas this will alleviate the need. I've had small areas, in the very hottest places, melt down to form a thick crust. Most of it remains pliable and reusable unlike DEI Titanium which becomes very fragile and crumbly. I am now ordering to try, this inexpensive wrap with good reviews (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KVY1O90/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ASJISZQUITY26).

Canadian818

06-15-2017, 07:18 AM

COOOOOOOOL!!!!!!!!!
So you're a biker too!

Same here on the left coast, we have the 818 on the hoist, two RX7's under and behind, and a HD bobber buried under parts bins at the front! So, from one rotary-818-HD crew to another, we salute you!

She's a Yamaha Road Star Warrior XV1700cc. Was once upon a time considered a "muscle cruiser" along side the VROD and Honda VTX. Has R1 suspension, and for a big cruiser she handles quite well. Still miss my old GSX-R, nothing beats dropping a knee.

Canadian818

06-15-2017, 07:26 AM

Adam, timely video.
I also had my header ceramic coated and then wrapped it and DEI coated it, but I didn't know about getting it wet to help with getting it on tight.
I do have plans to wrap my exhaust, so I'll be trying that method.
Thx

Let me know how much of a difference you think it being wet makes. And as always, post pics!

I am curious about the soaking and theoretical shrinking. I can absolutely see doing this wetting to keep down dust. I use a fan to lightly blow across what I'm wrapping and I wear gloves.
Because of the materials involved it's hard for me to believe the material shrinks due to getting wet.

I'm not sure if I misspoke in the video, I'll have to watch it again, but I didn't mean to say or imply that soaking the wrap makes it shrink, in fact the opposite is true. Being wet seems to loosen it up making it much more playable, especially for tight radius' like the two 180* bends I did. FWIW I've only ever worked with DEI's black wrap, not sure how it differs from their titanium wrap or other brands.

RetroRacing

06-15-2017, 03:28 PM

We wet the wrap as well, it makes it easier to handle and stretch into tight spots. We are NOT having the best of times with longevity though, thus the reason for ceramic coating the header first to drop contact temps.

Harley818

06-15-2017, 09:28 PM

Adam, I posted pics early in my thread showing ceramic coating and wrapping, then spraying. I'll post new ones for the remainder when I get to it.
I'm considering putting on a temporary exhaust from the donor with the CAT. I am worried they might require that for inspection and I don't really want to ask.... so I'll just put it on temorarily then switch.

Scargo - I'll have to try that wrap you mentioned. I need more and I'll be doing a run to the US next week.

Retro - I'll be in Langley to get it inspected. Apparently there is a shop there who is familiar with inspections for FFR cars. Hope its worth it. When I go, I'll give you a shout and maybe stop by if you are around.

RetroRacing

06-19-2017, 12:23 PM

Cool, we are in Spokane WITHOUT our 818R this weekend....it's killing me that I can't spend the time I need to on her.

Frank818

07-10-2017, 07:32 PM

Almost a month... caught somewhere?

Canadian818

07-11-2017, 07:55 PM

Almost a month... caught somewhere?

Just working, a lot. Haven't touched the car in two months now, and probably won't for another month unfortunately. But so is life, and I've been off and able to work on the car lots this past year. Good news is when I last worked on the car I drove it, not far or fast, but it was a huge milestone. I have video, just haven't got around to editing it yet.

Canadian818

07-18-2017, 11:16 AM

https://youtu.be/Co5jEnX2PD4

Hindsight

07-18-2017, 01:39 PM

Congrats!!!

Frank818

07-18-2017, 07:03 PM

Deep sound!!! Seems deeper than the WRX, at least at idle.

Nice white smoke too. Good way to keep the cops blind so they can't chase you. I knew you were building an 007 car.

Man that car is so freaking LOW up front!! Man that's cool!! When you got out of the garage we can see.

bbjones121

07-18-2017, 07:37 PM

Awesome! I think your alignment is slightly off. ;)

Canadian818

07-18-2017, 08:05 PM

Congrats!!!

Thanks!

Deep sound!!! Seems deeper than the WRX, at least at idle.

Nice white smoke too. Good way to keep the cops blind so they can't chase you. I knew you were building an 007 car.

Man that car is so freaking LOW up front!! Man that's cool!! When you got out of the garage we can see.

I like the deep tone, but I can't wait to hear it at 8000rpm!

Ride height was set without body, fuel, coolant, windshield, turbo, intercooler or my fat a$$, so it definitely needs to be raised. You can hear the fenders rub a few times in the video, and I edited out the worst of it. Also keep in mind my tires are 1" taller than almost everyone else. 25" front 26" rear

Awesome! I think your alignment is slightly off. ;)

Thanks! The alignment is actually pretty good, but my early frame offsets the steering rack so my steering wheel is quite off centred. I have the bits to fix it though and correct bump steer at the same time.

RetroRacing

07-19-2017, 09:55 AM

Nicely done! I feel shame now as a rotary guy that didn't man up.....

fastzrex

07-19-2017, 05:05 PM

Frank818

07-19-2017, 06:28 PM

I can't wait to hear it at 8000rpm!

So do I, god damn it! lolll

You can hear the fenders rub a few times in the video

Ha! That explains the weird sounds I heard.

Hey were you fortunate enough to buy that 12-pack for Canada's 150th?
One bottle comes from Last Best Brewing & Distilling of Calgary.
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/prince-edward-island/pei-12-beers-canada-150-1.4101519

Canadian818

07-19-2017, 07:21 PM

Adam, super progress. I can not image the amount of engineering and patience required to get to this point. Will have a very nice, distinctive exhaust note!

On another note, do you think the trades the Oilers have done will make them a better team (I just noticed you were in Edmonton)? I am in Oklahoma City and was the AAA farm team two (going on three) years ago and since follow them along with Detroit (originally an Ohio native).

Thanks! What you see as engineered solutions were just a lot of head scratching, drawing pictures, and just making it work. I call it "figuring". When the wife checks on me and I'm just staring at the car and asks what I'm doing, I just reply "figuring". About half of my build time has been spent doing that.

I hate to disappoint you but I'm probably the only Canadian that does follow hockey. I used to about ten years ago, but being from the east coast originally I was a Montreal fan. I still watch the scattered game, been to a few, and usually hear the lastest oiler news on the radio. But I've been working out of town so I haven't heard about any trades. Ironically I also feel like I'm the only Canadian that follows Formula 1 outside of Quebec, lol.

Hey were you fortunate enough to buy that 12-pack for Canada's 150th?
One bottle comes from Last Best Brewing & Distilling of Calgary.
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/prince-edward-island/pei-12-beers-canada-150-1.4101519

Didn't know about them until just now. I'm not a lover of all beers, and dislike most dark beers. I'm a simple man, I like ice cold corona served by a beautiful woman on a patio.

Frank818

07-19-2017, 07:46 PM

I hate to disappoint you but I'm probably the only Canadian that does follow hockey.

That makes 2 of us.
Americans watch football. Canadians watch hockey. Tells a lot about the weather.

I'm the only Canadian that follows Formula 1 outside of Quebec, lol.

2 of us again. Oh wait I'm from QC so you're alone on this one.

ice cold corona served by a beautiful woman on a patio.

Video plz?
You could record an "explanation" video on how that works.

Canadian818

07-19-2017, 11:04 PM

Nicely done! I feel shame now as a rotary guy that didn't man up.....

It's never to late...

fastzrex

07-20-2017, 05:44 PM

Thanks! What you see as engineered solutions were just a lot of head scratching, drawing pictures, and just making it work. I call it "figuring". When the wife checks on me and I'm just staring at the car and asks what I'm doing, I just reply "figuring". About half of my build time has been spent doing that.

I hate to disappoint you but I'm probably the only Canadian that does follow hockey. I used to about ten years ago, but being from the east coast originally I was a Montreal fan. I still watch the scattered game, been to a few, and usually hear the lastest oiler news on the radio. But I've been working out of town so I haven't heard about any trades. Ironically I also feel like I'm the only Canadian that follows Formula 1 outside of Quebec, lol.

Didn't know about them until just now. I'm not a lover of all beers, and dislike most dark beers. I'm a simple man, I like ice cold corona served by a beautiful woman on a patio.

If I could only get my wife to bring me a Corona once in a while, but am pleased she just hangs around a gear head like me!

Since I am in Oklahoma Sooner country, football is an all consuming passion for 90% here; I like to watch but there are other things to do, such as 818 work. Got to keep priorities straight. I just grew up with hockey in Ohio and spent a fair amount of time in the Detroit area when going to school.

F1 was a big passion some years ago, back when Lotus 49 and Cosworth engines were in vogue, and into the '80s. When the V12s/flat 12s left, my interest waned. My real race passion was CanAm (I am showing how old I am) and early TransAm. As I was close to MidOhio, got to see both many times. Miss those days. I am just an old guy!

As my wife (who is a crazy hockey fan) has asked, we may make a trip to Edmonton in the Spring to see the Oilers and may buzz through to see Montreal on the way back to the US. May have time to swing by.

All engineers do that 'figuring' too, they just get paid for it!

Frank818

07-20-2017, 06:04 PM

we may make a trip to Edmonton in the Spring to see the Oilers and may buzz through to see Montreal on the way back to the US. May have time to swing by.

Lol, that is one serious detour on your trip to/back_from Edmonton. :)
But I guess the trip is from one coast to another, then it's not a detour.

Canadian818

07-20-2017, 07:53 PM

Absolutely drop by, maybe my wife will serve you a cold corona, haha

fastzrex

07-21-2017, 05:05 PM

Lol, that is one serious detour on your trip to/back_from Edmonton. :)
But I guess the trip is from one coast to another, then it's not a detour.

We are planning a Canadian hockey trip, and if game schedules cooperate, want to see all the Canadian teams. For several years I visited/worked with a customer located at St Anthony, Newfoundland (aircraft) and sometimes was routed through Montreal coming and going.

How is the travel using the transcontinental train in Canada?

Frank818

07-21-2017, 08:09 PM

Oh man that is one great idea, all the Canadian hockey teams! During regular seasons or playoffs? Your trip would be very short during the playoffs, right Adam? lollll

Train will give you some BEAUTIFUL sceneries to look at. I don't know if it stops close to every hockey team's city. Probably though.

Definitely a trip you can't do in an 818. :(

Canadian818

07-22-2017, 08:31 AM

I've heard the train through the Rockies is amazing, but east of there would be pretty boring to see. The prairies as so flat you can watch your dog run away for days. Definitely do regular season, not sure when the last time all of our teams made the playoffs. The one thing you'll notice is the fans, very passionate. The oilers didn't make the playoffs for 10 years strait, but still a waiting list for season tickets and sold out arena regardless.

So you've been to Newfoundland?!? That's where I'm from, and by far the most beautiful part of Canada, although I might be slightly biased.

fastzrex

07-22-2017, 02:00 PM

Yep, spent a fair amount of time there helping a customer (Grenfell Hospital) get up to speed with their aircraft they used to transport patients. The airline would drop me in St Johns, I would take a POS Metroliner to St Anthony. It is really cool to see the icebergs float by on the ocean. As far as seafood, in the US I am strictly shrimp and lobster. But in St Anthony, they had the absolute best tasting white fish. I could eat it three times a day! Most of the time my time was consumed with aircraft work while there but occasionally Grenfell showed me how nice St Anthony's country side was. And during layover in St Johns, I could visit some of the touristic sites; was always amazed.

Canadian818

07-22-2017, 10:31 PM

Frank818

07-23-2017, 07:30 PM

I'm from St. John's, and being the oldest city in North America

No way? The oldest city in NA is not from USA? Oh Trump will be SO pissed off once I tell him that!! I'm tweeting him right now.

turbomacncheese

07-23-2017, 11:15 PM

No way? The oldest city in NA is not from USA? Oh Trump will be SO pissed off once I tell him that!! I'm tweeting him right now.

Bwaahaahahahahaa

fastzrex

07-24-2017, 06:26 PM

I haven't seen much of the northern peninsula, did you get to see the Viking settlements? I'm from St. John's, and being the oldest city in North America it certainly has lots of culture and lots to see.

My wife also asked me about Viking settlements too, but almost all my time is always used for getting aircraft ready to fly, looking at aircraft, having fuel drip on my head all night, etc. My wife always thought I was lounging around in exotic locales when I just finished a 16 hour day inside an aircraft working fuel leaks on a hot concrete ramp. I am too old and fat to do that any more!

But to answer your question, I did get to spend time seeing where Marconi sent his first signals across the ocean in St Johns. Was a relaxing half a day waiting on an airline connection.