Adam's Canadian 13B Rotary 818-SR Build [Archive] - Page 2

Canadian818

03-12-2016, 10:36 AM

Definitely subscribed! I've been wondering what it would take to mount 18x10 in the rear on an 818. I'm working on buying a house for now (wife says it's more important or something like that haha) but the first chance I have I'm snatching up an 818C and want to build to around the same +/-400rwhp that you're looking for. I know the subbie engines can make that easily and that the transmissions can be built to handle it but I was REALLY worried about traction with the rear tire widths that I've been seeing. I was thinking along the same lines with the fender flares but wasn't really sure how to go about it.

I believe 9.5" widths have been installed out back with stock flares. Perhaps with the right offset, modified rear lower trailing arms and different spacers for the rear upper trailing arms, it could work. I too was concerned about traction issues, but now I'll have transmission and axles issues. I'm going to get it finished enough to register before addressing those, so I'll either take it easy or break something.

Frank818

03-14-2016, 06:18 AM

What axles issues?

Canadian818

03-14-2016, 10:11 AM

What axles issues?

They're going to snap. With 350hp+ and 12" wide tires they don't stand a chance, and neither does my transmission. I'll probably go with STI hubs, fortunately my wheels are both 5x100 and 5x114

bbjones121

03-14-2016, 10:39 AM

They're going to snap. With 350hp+ and 12" wide tires they don't stand a chance, and neither does my transmission. I'll probably go with STI hubs, fortunately my wheels are both 5x100 and 5x114

Not necessarily. Depends how hard you launch and/or shock the system on shifts.

Frank818

03-14-2016, 12:18 PM

The shafts themselves I don't know how much they could support OEM, but we know Bob twisted one already, by launching hard with less power than you have. You probably need better CVs cuz with the traction and power you have the OEM ones may well fail. Good news is that I went through the procedure for you loll and know what you need to order. :) But doing it again I'd go even bigger with STI spindles so you can get upgraded STI CVs. Although it should be enough with small WRX upgraded ones, STIs are not going to be worse.

Frank818

06-06-2016, 11:14 AM

Adam, I know you work 70h a week not on the car but since March you got some updates?
Hopefully Fort McMurray didn't affect you.

Canadian818

06-07-2016, 12:57 AM

Adam, I know you work 70h a week not on the car but since March you got some updates?
Hopefully Fort McMurray didn't affect you.

Thanks for checking in on me Frank. I was unaffected by the fire, however I did have some visitors because of it. I'm finally done working, hopefully for a little while. Been busy catching up on about two years of overdue projects around the house, and getting the nursery ready for our second child due in a month! Also bought a bike, a Yamaha Road Star Warrior, and I've been spending the odd couple of hours in the garage modifying that. To be honest I was sick of spending an hour here and there on the car, felt like I was accomplishing nothing. I'm really looking forward to spending full days in the garage on it. I have the tires mounted on the rims, and bought some goodies, so hopefully I'll have some updates by the weekend. Unless I decide to go to Montreal for the Grand Prix!

Canadian818

06-26-2016, 06:25 PM

I've been back to working on the car for the past few weeks. Unfortunately, despite the amount of time spent, progress has been slow. I had to pull the engine once more to finish welding and paint the engine and transmission mounts. While it was out I installed some firewall between the engine and gas tank. I couldn't have it all mount from the engine side as the engine sits slightly inside the center "triangle."

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/922515B5-56EB-4D96-A712-1FD3E6E8E0DA.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/922515B5-56EB-4D96-A712-1FD3E6E8E0DA.jpg.html)

I don't mind a loud engine, but I hate hearing a fuel pump whine. Here's my solution.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/1869DEDF-5626-431B-B703-D4E41641B087.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/1869DEDF-5626-431B-B703-D4E41641B087.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/6AFC0A74-4584-4AE8-818C-80DD4278CF04.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/6AFC0A74-4584-4AE8-818C-80DD4278CF04.jpg.html)

Next up was the brakes. I finished relocating the rear calliper mounting holes, which is where I left off like 6 months ago. I shaved off the "Nissan" and painted them black. Routed the e-brake cables through the new firewall and assembled with new shoes, DBA rotors, Stop Tech pads, and Goodridge brake lines. Also new Godspeed lower trailing arms, which I expect to have to modify shortly.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/98128EED-A6C1-4BC8-8729-9C4319257840.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/98128EED-A6C1-4BC8-8729-9C4319257840.jpg.html)

Front callipers cleaned up and painted as well. Using the Nissan brakes has been a huge pain, and I don't recommend it. Even after buying the KNS brackets and multiple rotor fit tests, I still need to use washers to space the callipers to be centred on the rotor.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/115C7341-4F56-4C3A-AB89-A969EE796D62.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/115C7341-4F56-4C3A-AB89-A969EE796D62.jpg.html)

Next up will be to mount my Tilton remote reservoir and bleed the system. Then it'll be ready for wheels and tires and the obligatory driveway shot. I might finish up my coolant lines first though, as it'll be easier to do still up on the frame buck.

Frank818

06-27-2016, 07:22 PM

Funny thing, your fuel tank is shaped slightly different than mine, the center part behind the ebrake has more angles. Mine is fully flush from left to... oh... the seats. It's probably an FFR tank design before their new L-shaped to give more seat space for the wookies out here. What chassis again? 91? I have 181, then your tank is not 100% FFR?

Love the discs man. But man, you gotta find ways to work more often and steadily on the car, really. You're going rotary! That's 1000-1500+ hours. And like you said, time for installing brakes and Wayne builds a full car... so... lolll

Canadian818

06-27-2016, 07:35 PM

I modified my FFR tank to clear my seat backs, along with the fire wall. All in the name of trying to get the seat back as far as possible.

Frank818

06-27-2016, 07:52 PM

Ha! I see. I must have forgotten that one. There goes a few 20's hours.... which Wayne used to install the suspension, tank, complete wiring, brakes, wheels, shifter and ebrake. Oh yeah. lolll

Canadian818

06-27-2016, 11:06 PM

Ha! I see. I must have forgotten that one. There goes a few 20's hours.... which Wayne used to install the suspension, tank, complete wiring, brakes, wheels, shifter and ebrake. Oh yeah. lolll

Haha, no kidding. It's amazing how time consuming one change can be because of the domino effect. Moving my seats closer together and further back must have cost me 100hrs between the tank, firewall, center console frame and aluminum. And don't get me started on the Nissan brakes or choosing the rotary.

Canadian818

07-05-2016, 08:57 PM

Got a little distracted from the build with this new addition...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/901707C0-294F-4F6E-80D2-1B976B1E9D01.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/901707C0-294F-4F6E-80D2-1B976B1E9D01.jpg.html)

Mom and baby are happy and healthy! I was back in the garage for a bit today and have a question. Does anyone have a picture of this installed? I think it goes above the master cylinder and under the windshield frame, but it's been so long. Couldn't find it in the manual. Thanks!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/2E04668E-049A-40B2-8006-D8E4B6C33CF9.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/2E04668E-049A-40B2-8006-D8E4B6C33CF9.jpg.html)

Bob_n_Cincy

07-05-2016, 09:09 PM

I split it in half so I could put it around my wiper motor.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55808&d=1467770906

Canadian818

07-05-2016, 09:12 PM

Thanks Bob, that was quick! So it goes on after the windshield frame?

Bob_n_Cincy

07-05-2016, 09:16 PM

Thanks Bob, that was quick! So it goes on after the windshield frame?

Same day as windshield frame.
Oh Yea, Congratulations.
Bob

Frank818

07-06-2016, 06:54 AM

Congrats on the build completeness! Although you only worked 1h on it, got lazy and paid your wife to do the remaining. Which means you have no idea of the feeling and experience the build could have given you. No one but Tamra on this forum would ever anyway. lolll

Yeah that piece goes on the top frame tube behind the cluster and inside the windshield to prevent airflow from the rad bay to enter under the dash. Yours is black and not alu, did you paint it?

Canadian818

07-06-2016, 09:47 AM

Thanks guys! You're right Frank, but how can I convince her to help with this build? Haha

Frank818

07-11-2016, 06:19 PM

Canadian818

07-11-2016, 11:11 PM

Hey, you helped her with her build, now her turn to help you with yours. lolll Nah, life doesn't work that way.

Speaking of life, what are your viable plans for the summer and autumn on the car? Any goals?

Funny you should ask today Frank. Finally got back on the car today, first time since the baby showed up. I've been in the garage, but I was installing a winch on my quad and shaving the seat on my motorcycle, too many projects. I also squeezed a few days of work in there!

Goals? I'm kind of sick of setting them, as life gets in the way. Like today, do I spend this beautiful day in the garage? Or do I take my 8 year old to the zoo? Well the zoo was great, lol. I think once the build is closer to completion I'll push everything aside to finish, but right now it's easy to get distracted by smaller projects with easier goals that I can enjoy sooner.

Today I finished installing the brakes and began installing my rims and tires. The fronts went on good, however one side clears almost completely to full lock and the other only half way. I'm sure there's some adjustments to be made, I'll look into that tomorrow. The bigger project for tomorrow will be modifying my rear lower trailing arms. They are eBay "Godspeed" ones, and I'll cut and weld them much like the VCP arms.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/3F8C192A-378D-4D47-9657-2A0A9002CBF2.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/3F8C192A-378D-4D47-9657-2A0A9002CBF2.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/DF1ACBF0-2517-4A27-9A5A-9E501F338921.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/DF1ACBF0-2517-4A27-9A5A-9E501F338921.jpg.html)

Goals? Well for tomorrow, arms modified, reservoir installed, and brakes/clutch bled.

Canadian818

07-13-2016, 12:29 AM

Good progress today...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/E2AE5158-C7A6-4C99-A111-3C5BE5823C77.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/E2AE5158-C7A6-4C99-A111-3C5BE5823C77.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/B2F77D6B-51D4-4DEB-B04D-77A843361A1C.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/B2F77D6B-51D4-4DEB-B04D-77A843361A1C.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/88A84A90-857C-4EA2-9AB2-6B99C3A57492.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/88A84A90-857C-4EA2-9AB2-6B99C3A57492.jpg.html)

I'll finish welding at add some gussets/support on the end along with powder coat at a later date. At least after a rough alignment.

Got the brakes bled, well as much as I could solo. Still some air in the lines but she'll stop in the driveway, lol.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/333FF590-B922-4A0B-9E37-D11E9B60E72D.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/333FF590-B922-4A0B-9E37-D11E9B60E72D.jpg.html)

Getting there...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/677EF5F7-CCEF-4EF6-8ABD-FD278CA27A60.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/677EF5F7-CCEF-4EF6-8ABD-FD278CA27A60.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/46BE8167-53BB-432B-8364-013337F963F1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/46BE8167-53BB-432B-8364-013337F963F1.jpg.html)

Frank818

07-14-2016, 06:31 PM

Finally some overall pix with nice stuff in! That engine is smaller than I thought! Are you missing some parts around? Oh, the turbo, right?

Remind me what are those tires?
I wonder how you guys are able to fit tires so ****ing wide, I got small 265s and wider would rub bad on both modified trailing arms, would be so ****ing close of the fwd upper link which is already pushed as far as possible on the bracket and would stick out of fenders bad. Strange, you must be some kind of magician, like the others. Adam Angels? lolll

What did you use to cut the trailing arms? Looks laser cut!
There's another solution, quite efficient, it's to move inwards the ball joint on the bracket and use much different lengths spacers (a long one and very short one). I tested that with washers and it works well. I need to get one of my spacers cut and add washers to the other one. Will do just before inspection.

Canadian818

07-14-2016, 10:47 PM

Finally some overall pix with nice stuff in! That engine is smaller than I thought! Are you missing some parts around? Oh, the turbo, right?

It is quite small yes, but the turbo takes up pretty much all the space on the right of the engine. I've contemplated putting the battery on the left side, but I'm not sure yet. The coils will be mounted off the engine somewhere on the left side as well, and eventually a second fuel pump in a sump.

Remind me what are those tires?
I wonder how you guys are able to fit tires so ****ing wide, I got small 265s and wider would rub bad on both modified trailing arms, would be so ****ing close of the fwd upper link which is already pushed as far as possible on the bracket and would stick out of fenders bad. Strange, you must be some kind of magician, like the others. Adam Angels? lolll

Tires are 305's, and no magic here. 11" wide wheel, +20 offset mounted with no spacers. The upper trailing arm doesn't have a spacer on it right now, but a small spacer on the inside will still allow the hiem full motion. The tires will not clear the body, but that's for another day.

What did you use to cut the trailing arms? Looks laser cut!
There's another solution, quite efficient, it's to move inwards the ball joint on the bracket and use much different lengths spacers (a long one and very short one). I tested that with washers and it works well. I need to get one of my spacers cut and add washers to the other one. Will do just before inspection.

Haha, it was cut with a ZipDisc, which is just a very fine cutting disc on a grinder. I've spent more time with a angle grinder in my life than I have with my wife, lol. Actually that's not funny at all.

I didn't want to mess with the geometry of the arm, but cutting it where I did the two pivot points didn't change, just the shape of the arm. If one moved the front hiem to the inside you would be changing the geometry ever so slightly, which IMO could cause further problems.

You know sometimes Frank, I think you're the only one following my build, lol. Thanks for the interest. I figure if I'm doing something wrong someone will comment.

Today's project is coolant piping. I didn't want to buy coolant tubes, especially since I'd have to fab the rear section anyway. I don't have a bender, but I do have a roller from another project so I'm making that work. I also made a "bead roller" for the coolant tubes.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/C6D183C6-D55D-4C91-AE58-0FAD8113C36F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/C6D183C6-D55D-4C91-AE58-0FAD8113C36F.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/2AF4DFDC-370F-4956-8DF9-4DEE3334DB93.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/2AF4DFDC-370F-4956-8DF9-4DEE3334DB93.jpg.html)

I'll have some completed pics tomorrow. In the background of the last pic you can see my new transmission! It's from a '98 JDM STI RA, so it has close ratio "RA" gears and a helical front limited slip. Much to my surprise it uses male cv's and doesn't have the male stubs like is needed for all aftermarket LSD's for 5 speeds. This is good news since that means the axles I have will work. It also has a DCCD center diff which I'll be removing, so if anyone is interested in it for another subie project let me know. I believe this thing is the crown jewel of 5mt's. It won't be installed until a later date, as I don't want to move backwards at all and what I have will work to get it on the road.

Bob_n_Cincy

07-14-2016, 11:23 PM

You know sometimes Frank, I think you're the only one following my build, lol. Thanks for the interest. I figure if I'm doing something wrong someone will comment.

Hi Adam.
I'm watching.
I can relate to the peanut grinder comment. I would say we have gone through at least 20 cut off wheels.
You need to spend more time with that new baby.

I have a question and comment on the brakes.
Where did you get the Master cylinder hose adapters? I know Mike Everson sells them with a kit but you don't have his tank.

The pink brake line adapters that I got had a nose on them that restricted them to only 2 or 3 revolutions into aluminum components. I didn't trust that so I changed the ends to M10x1.0 metric nuts.
Bob

Canadian818

07-14-2016, 11:48 PM

I have the kit from Mike, however I didn't like the seemingly recycled reservoir, and the supplied hose leaked through on Frank. So I bought the Tilton reservoir and some EPDM hose locally.

The pink adapters also make it hard to clear the windshield front fiberglass because it becomes so high coming off the master.

Oh, and thanks for watching :p

Frank818

07-15-2016, 07:01 PM

I have the kit from Mike, however I didn't like the seemingly recycled reservoir, and the supplied hose leaked through on Frank.

Absolutely. With ATE 200 brake fluid. Other fluids might be ok but this one, the blue bottle, did not work at all. I remember you commented on that. Good move with your lines. I really like what you did (lines-reservoir combo).

I'm coming back on the trailing arms cut. Is geometry that much important for this arm? It's just there to prevent waving side to side, would it be that bad if the ball joint would be 1" inwards or 1" outwards, relative to center-to-center?

Lucky ******* on 305s. lollll What brand?

Canadian818

07-15-2016, 08:12 PM

Absolutely. With ATE 200 brake fluid. Other fluids might be ok but this one, the blue bottle, did not work at all. I remember you commented on that. Good move with your lines. I really like what you did (lines-reservoir combo).

Thanks, I'm really happy with how it turned out. EPDM hose is really expensive though, I think I paid like $8/ft! I used Willwoods brake fluid, 600 something it's called.

I'm coming back on the trailing arms cut. Is geometry that much important for this arm? It's just there to prevent waving side to side, would it be that bad if the ball joint would be 1" inwards or 1" outwards, relative to center-to-center?

Im really not sure how much that could affect the geometry, I just didn't want to risk it. Cutting and welding is what I know, suspension is something I need to learn, so I didn't risk it.

Lucky ******* on 305s. lollll What brand?

They're NT01's, and I expect they'll claim some driveline parts, lol.

Wayne Presley

07-15-2016, 08:20 PM

You know sometimes Frank, I think you're the only one following my build, lol. Thanks for the interest. I figure if I'm doing something wrong someone will comment.

I follow the build and think the 13B is the perfect powerplant for the 818.

Canadian818

07-15-2016, 11:41 PM

I follow the build and think the 13B is the perfect powerplant for the 818.

Thanks Wayne! It means a lot that you say that. I often doubt myself that the 13b is worth all this effort, telling myself that it will really suit the 818. Having never driven one or anything similar it's all just theory really. But knowing your history with FFR, the 818, racing lotus', and from what I gather the 13b, it's a huge boost of confidence.

Making some progress on the coolant system. Everything is rolled, cut, fitted, except for the passenger side rear up to the engine. I'm welding in a tube that intersects the t-stat piping and goes strait up with a rad cap on top. Once that's done I can move on to the next task. I won't be securing it until after I get my constant tension clamps. A total of 14 are required.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F433EE08-A8D3-4452-8B1E-9484A0028A93.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F433EE08-A8D3-4452-8B1E-9484A0028A93.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/38CDB9FF-891B-4BF7-8B6B-A8FE28C5D56B.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/38CDB9FF-891B-4BF7-8B6B-A8FE28C5D56B.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/56D448AE-F23B-475C-80AD-D78EC85A05AB.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/56D448AE-F23B-475C-80AD-D78EC85A05AB.jpg.html)

I finished my clutch line as well. My flex line is 3ft long, and I secured it so I can switch from a push clutch to a pull clutch when installing my RA transmission without issue at a later date. I've also installed my Zero Decibel shift linkage. Is there any advice on adjusting the cables? I feel lost, hard to get my head around it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/19C6B5B4-4598-48F8-A2EC-A9DBC02A3B40.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/19C6B5B4-4598-48F8-A2EC-A9DBC02A3B40.jpg.html)

And finally, does everyone have this gap after mounting the windshield frame? I can push it down if I wanted to rivet it in place. Should I keep readjusting until it lays flat? FYI my pic sucks, but I can just get the tip of my finger in under, so maybe 3/8" gap.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/129B5B4F-2335-49B2-8590-E0D79804BB9F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/129B5B4F-2335-49B2-8590-E0D79804BB9F.jpg.html)

Wayne Presley

07-16-2016, 08:10 AM

Thanks Wayne! It means a lot that you say that. I often doubt myself that the 13b is worth all this effort, telling myself that it will really suit the 818. Having never driven one or anything similar it's all just theory really. But knowing your history with FFR, the 818, racing lotus', and from what I gather the 13b, it's a huge boost of confidence.
And finally, does everyone have this gap after mounting the windshield frame? I can push it down if I wanted to rivet it in place. Should I keep readjusting until it lays flat? FYI my pic sucks, but I can just get the tip of my finger in under, so maybe 3/8" gap.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/129B5B4F-2335-49B2-8590-E0D79804BB9F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/129B5B4F-2335-49B2-8590-E0D79804BB9F.jpg.html)

You have quite a bit to do before worrying about where the windshield frame goes. The side pods and doors have to be done first.

The 13B with moderate boost can make 400 RWHP and will make good power from 5000-10,000 RPM which will allows the transmission ratios a wide range of speeds and overlap.

Wayne Presley

07-16-2016, 08:22 AM

Here is a Toyota Starlet with a 13B running 31 psi making 645 RWHP/443 RWTQ on my dyno.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/starlet_zpshktdk1mo.png (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/starlet_zpshktdk1mo.png.html)

Mechie3

07-16-2016, 09:37 AM

Adjust the cables so that your shift knob is centered when in neutral. You can slightly adjust ratios on the left/right motion by choosing different pairs of holes in the bell crank (three different ratios possible).

Canadian818

07-16-2016, 11:57 AM

Canadian818

07-16-2016, 11:58 AM

Wayne Presley

07-16-2016, 12:57 PM

Wow, look at how smooth that is. Do you remember what turbo was on it?

Gt4276 Garrett. 115 ar on exhaust

Canadian818

07-16-2016, 03:08 PM

Whoa, that's a big boy turbo for sure! My "little" 8374 should put me in the mid 300's around 1bar, and hopefully low or flat enough torque as to keep my 5mt alive for awhile.

Wayne Presley

07-16-2016, 04:13 PM

Car ran 5.0xx in the 1/8th mile.... and 8.00@167mph in the 1/4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZEL2bBZvck

Did I mention the ear splitting wail it makes at 10,000 rpm ? :eek:

Canadian818

07-16-2016, 07:02 PM

Car ran 5.0xx in the 1/8th mile.... and 8.00@167mph in the 1/4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZEL2bBZvck

Did I mention the ear splitting wail it makes at 10,000 rpm ? :eek:

That was an impressive run! It must be heavily ported though, and obviously an open exhaust. My initial plan is a high flow cat and no muffler. But with stock ports and IWG it shouldn't be too bad.

Harley818

07-18-2016, 12:00 AM

Adam, don't worry about the windshield gap. Mine is the same and all my body panels fit great with the windsheild.

Frank818

07-18-2016, 05:32 PM

Same windshield gap here.
10kRPM, that's awesome.

Canadian818

07-18-2016, 09:58 PM

Thanks guys, guess I'll leave it until I mount the body. Got called away for work for a bit, missing the garage already! Hopefully back at it real soon. I need to get the body started so I can order a A2A intercooler core and an oil cooler. Both will be mounted behind a rear wheel with ducting from in front of each wheel. I need the body on so I can figure out sizing and plumbing. I've been spending my hotel time figuring out as much as I can about what's ahead of me with regards wiring. I'll be using a painless 21 circuit universal harness, and the AEM Infinity's universal mini harness. The aem harness only comes with basic wiring, but it has a 80-pin connector and supplied pins so I'll add as required. I expect to hit a number of wiring road blocks, realizing things I need to order, etc. Should be a learning experience that's for sure!

Harley818

07-19-2016, 01:00 AM

you could be dieting your subaru donor harness in the hotel room! time would fly by!! took me a long time.

longislandwrx

07-19-2016, 06:08 AM

I love starlets, and now I'm missing my rx7. nothing like revving it to 8000 in third gear, letting off the gas and lighting the afterburner

RetroRacing

07-19-2016, 01:02 PM

Our EP cars pull 9500, lift, flame, Pow, awesome! The Peripheral port tri-rotor is pretty awesome sounding as well.

Canadian818

07-19-2016, 01:44 PM

Now just imagine those flames coming out of a high, centred, zonda style tip! Except mine is three tips instead of four. You guys got me excited now!

Frank818

07-19-2016, 06:08 PM

So Adam, are you now cranked up enough (à la Jason Statham) to make a huge progress in a short time? :)

Canadian818

07-21-2016, 11:07 PM

So Adam, are you now cranked up enough (à la Jason Statham) to make a huge progress in a short time? :)

I dunno about that level of "cranked", but I'm expecting to make steady progress from here on out. Got back at it for a few hours today and finished up fabbing my coolant system. Just waiting on some clamps before vacuum testing it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F8AF4C9E-F3A1-4F8F-8CB4-5D1BE51C54B3.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F8AF4C9E-F3A1-4F8F-8CB4-5D1BE51C54B3.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CA8EB022-E170-4C0E-A807-FADFFB9A1270.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CA8EB022-E170-4C0E-A807-FADFFB9A1270.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/115021B9-3418-42C8-926B-BAE9F03BA0E1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/115021B9-3418-42C8-926B-BAE9F03BA0E1.jpg.html)

Next up is to finish the "temp" fuel system, finish cleaning up the manifold and mount it and the turbo. Then finish the oil and coolant lines to it. Then it's finally time to mount the body. Hope to be doing that next week!

STiPWRD

07-22-2016, 07:25 AM

I dunno about that level of "cranked", but I'm expecting to make steady progress from here on out.
Get as much done while the baby is still immobile! Once they start crawling and walking, free time kinda goes out the window (mine just turned 1). I'm enjoying watching your build as well, keep up the good work.

Frank818

07-22-2016, 07:40 PM

Yeah, steady progress, THAT's your goal! :)

You are going to pour coolant through that nicely home made pipe? And where's the reservoir going to be?

Canadian818

07-22-2016, 11:56 PM

Get as much done while the baby is still immobile! Once they start crawling and walking, free time kinda goes out the window (mine just turned 1). I'm enjoying watching your build as well, keep up the good work.

Oh I know all about it, I have another turning 8. One is finally fairly self serve and the next one is taking over. And as much as I love my car, it will always come second. Today we went to the fair! Oh and thanks, I'm trying!

Yeah, steady progress, THAT's your goal! :)

You are going to pour coolant through that nicely home made pipe? And where's the reservoir going to be?

That's the plan! I have a 16psi rad cap for there, and I'll put a 20psi cap up front so I don't need a front reservoir. The reservoir will be on the drivers side of the engine somewhere, perhaps on the firewall. Too much heat already on the right side.

Canadian818

07-27-2016, 01:05 AM

Worked for a few days, but got back in the garage today. I spent most my time on my turbo manifold, porting and smoothing. I need to order my AEM RTD egt sensors and full-race studs before I can finally mount the turbo and start plumbing it in. Speaking of plumbing, I ordered the wrong clamps, so it'll be at least a week before I can check that off the list. It was getting too hot to be covered in metal shavings so I started some spring cleaning in the garage and dug out some body panels. It's so motivating seeing the body on! I'm going to keep the car on the dolly for a little longer, despite my urge to put it out in the sun just because it's so much easier to work on. Few pics for everyone...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/3B96071D-1B9A-422C-BA4A-9393085E21C8.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/3B96071D-1B9A-422C-BA4A-9393085E21C8.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/223308D3-4352-4D34-91B8-1CFC3532FE0C.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/223308D3-4352-4D34-91B8-1CFC3532FE0C.jpg.html)

I'll get my flares out tomorrow, jack up the wheel, and see if they'll work. I'm pretty sure I promised Kurk818 a pic of that like 6 months ago, lol.

I also picked up this madness....

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/7FC7EAED-60D6-4E8B-B21D-64563F9DCA88.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/7FC7EAED-60D6-4E8B-B21D-64563F9DCA88.jpg.html)

...and ordered all my AEM wiring and coils. I'm slowly sorting out what other little things I'll need before starting wiring, like sensors, pig tails, specialty tools etc. I expect to hit lots of road blocks being my first time tackling wiring on this scale. So I'll go back and forth between body/wiring/plumbing for the next while.

07-27-2016, 08:52 AM

http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/19C6B5B4-4598-48F8-A2EC-A9DBC02A3B40.jpg.html Allo what's that sprayer on the floor for ?.

Canadian818

07-27-2016, 10:58 AM

http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/19C6B5B4-4598-48F8-A2EC-A9DBC02A3B40.jpg.html Allo what's that sprayer on the floor for ?.

It's an el cheapo vacuum bleeder for clutch/brakes.

Frank818

07-27-2016, 07:28 PM

Fatty tires. :)
You got the same trash bin I have. Who cares, eh? lolll
It says "painless" on the box. Let's see about that...

Canadian818

07-27-2016, 07:45 PM

I'm not expecting it to be painless, lol.

So these flares won't work. They're suited to a much smaller diameter wheel/tire.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/5F859247-00A8-4789-91DD-07156FC63EC6.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/5F859247-00A8-4789-91DD-07156FC63EC6.jpg.html)

However if I choose to make my own, they would be useful at the leading edge.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/96E6788A-189F-4936-B242-4C8A589D0776.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/96E6788A-189F-4936-B242-4C8A589D0776.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/B004005B-88BB-4B0A-A60C-2A636F191B09.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/B004005B-88BB-4B0A-A60C-2A636F191B09.jpg.html)

But I have another thought, and I could really use some advise as I've never really played with fiberglass before. I'm not sure how much it will bend or flex before breaking. What if I cut down the center of this ridge...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/25231E40-A51F-472C-B924-831C078F239E.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/25231E40-A51F-472C-B924-831C078F239E.jpg.html)

...which is now about a 0.5" wide, and spread it to be about 2" wide at the back? Obviously a few relief cuts on the bottom of the sil behind the door would be needed. Would it be possible to bring the fender out enough to clear the tire? How hard would it be to then fill that strip at the top? Any feedback, suggestions, comments welcome. In the mean time, I'm going to start scouring the Internet for much larger flares.

Canadian818

07-28-2016, 01:04 AM

Just found these (http://m.ebay.com/itm/191884673930?_mwBanner=1), measurements seem good. I understand most people here hate this style flare, but I don't mind it at all. If it works, it's a much easier solution, which would probably be the first time this build I took that route.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F095B2EE-478A-4298-93A6-F38C7711F69F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F095B2EE-478A-4298-93A6-F38C7711F69F.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/0356F218-1100-46F3-A5B1-9418929F3C24.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/0356F218-1100-46F3-A5B1-9418929F3C24.jpg.html)

BC Huselton

07-29-2016, 08:36 AM

Canadian818

07-29-2016, 10:54 AM

Yes you can do that from that spot you are pointing to. You will have to cut and add space to the rear bumper to have it match up. It will end up looking far better than stick on flares..IMO. I did it to the fronts and gained an 1.5" of clearance.

It is not that complex, but it does require a structured template that holds it in place while you glass it in. It also requires a Filler Contour blade that you can make to assure the curve transitions smoothly.

Call me @ 843 342 5471 and I can help you with it if you like.
56872

I'm glad someone thinks it possible. I know many people have made fiberglass flares by shaping foam on the outside of the fender, but I just feel like they would never be even. At least this way I'd only be stretching a flat spot. It should also make it much easier to have even gaps to the trunk lids as that strip would be relaxed.

Here's my thinking on the process. Do a rough alignment. Fix the panels square to the car, with even gaps to the deck lids. Attach the bumper to the rear bottom frame. Cut along the flat spot I pointed to, cut some relief cuts on the bottom side sil behind the door. Then I'll unbolt the rear bumper and use a piece of thin flatbar to offset bolt it to the bumper holding it out. Then add a brace or to along the gap, and put a strip of cardboard along the underside of it. Glass it from the top, filling it in. Before sanding it down, remove the side sail and glass it from the inside with a generous overlap. Reinstall, and align before sanding and filling the outside.

Am I on the right track? Obviously stretching the bumper will come after both sides are done. And I'll probably take you up on your offer to chat once I'm ready to start cutting.

BC Huselton

07-29-2016, 11:27 AM

Sure, call when you are ready. I would try another approach. Cut the rear bumper at the edge of the tail light and move that entire side out to match up with the new fender position. That way you maintain the original contours and you are filling in at a flatter location.

Yes the cutting of the fender at the spot you are pointing at requires a temporary support structure, that you screw into, then you bevel both the top and the bottom of the joining parts and then use structural woven glass for you first layer to produce strength and then top coats with copped mat. The space structure to support the glass while curing can be made from sheet metal covered with foil tape and a forming paste wax that permits it to release cleanly.

More later, when you are ready. You have the right ideas.

Canadian818

07-29-2016, 12:15 PM

I've actually considered not widening the bumper at all and just make the flange on the side sail much bigger. Obviously this wouldn't flow smoothly into the bumper, but if I put slotted vents in said flat spot it would look intentional. Also, the fact that I'm putting a APR road race wing on the back it's more of a race car look I'm going for. Hard to say until I start cutting, which now I'm excited to do so it might be next week! Need to go buy some epoxy and mat.

Canadian818

07-31-2016, 10:43 PM

Not much to show, unless you count a ton more space to work due to some late "spring" cleaning. I've cleco'd and trimmed the side sails. I went by my manual's 5/8" back from the frame to the bottom of the sil, hopefully there wasn't a revision I'm unaware of. My gaps are actually pretty good along the top of the rear quarters, ironically so since I'll be be able to easily adjust those after cutting the top edge. I won't be cutting just yet, I'm going to make sure everything is square first. Right now my passenger side wheel is centred in the wheel well but the drivers side isn't. I'm fairly confident that the side sails are the same, so it must be my alignment. So there's not much left I can do until I put it on the ground and start my alignment. Also I expect to have to modify the front aluminum and probably some frame to clear my 245's which measure 25.5" diameter. FYI, if my rears look tall it's because they're 26.4" diameter.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/A7DAFC71-8560-49DD-A596-52FD0AAB6C8D.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/A7DAFC71-8560-49DD-A596-52FD0AAB6C8D.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/D0EBD1A7-ACEC-4988-96E6-EBEC6C6342BB.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/D0EBD1A7-ACEC-4988-96E6-EBEC6C6342BB.jpg.html)

I decided to experiment with some relief cuts in the bottom of the side sails. I just did a few spread out so I could see which ones open up when I pull out on the front of the wheel well. It actually worked pretty good, however the center cuts opened up much more, so I'll end up adding a few more there.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/28529E81-712C-4DED-ADD5-779325BDC94C.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/28529E81-712C-4DED-ADD5-779325BDC94C.jpg.html)

Frank818

08-02-2016, 08:22 PM

Looks like your humps lid is too much fwd or your side sail too much backwards (probably the latter). They don't line up at the door edge. Also I don't think it's possible to fit the humps lid without ANY trimming around the roll bar. I had some serious trimming there and I am quite within FFR's specs and Dan's specs (Dan knows all secrets about all possible body panels).

The good news though is it's cool to see your post a couple of times a week, now!!!!

Canadian818

08-03-2016, 03:53 AM

Thanks for your feedback Frank, always welcome! From everyone btw, lol. And yes, it's very satisfying to update this thread regularly.

The measurement from the center front of the engine cover to the side of the frame the supplied firewall mounts to is 3.125" which is right about the measurement given in Dan's thread. I believe he had 3.25" and metalmaker had 3", I could be remembering the "who" wrong as I've been reading A LOT of threads lately looking for all the hidden tips and tricks of mounting the body. To me I thought they lined up perfectly, maybe the picture is deceiving with the paint stick. And I was surprised that I didn't need to trim it to get it there. It is touching, and will need to be clearenced a little, but not much.

Speaking up tips and tricks, I thought I'd share something. Before taking the car off my dolly (it's off now, woohoo), I wanted to mount the aluminum panel that goes under the seat. Something that's been annoying me is the issue of having to make this panel removable to take the seats on and off, at least for those of us with extremely low seats. As it's designed, this would also entail removing the side sails. Seems like a lot of trouble to access the fuel tank or get your friends phone that went flying under the seat due to unexpected g-forces. I also really didn't want to install that many rivnuts on my back. So here's my solution...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/6BB6BD5B-B181-441B-9E11-F0F15A3D8CCF.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/6BB6BD5B-B181-441B-9E11-F0F15A3D8CCF.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/76DAD87B-EDE2-48AE-809B-AA5633892298.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/76DAD87B-EDE2-48AE-809B-AA5633892298.jpg.html)

They're called knock out plugs, usually found in the electrical isle of any hardware store. These are 1" plugs from Home Depot, however the hole actually measures just under 1.375". I did notice today that lowes sells them without the recessed center. Either way, paint them black and pop them in!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/5A81E0CF-572B-4E21-B596-5DA95246B219.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/5A81E0CF-572B-4E21-B596-5DA95246B219.jpg.html)

There it is, permanently installed. Most non-builders don't realize how time consuming one panel could be. Between the initial painting of the panel, clamping it, marking it, marking for holes, drilling the panel, clamping again, drilling the frame, cutting what felt like a hundred triangles of sound deadener, siliconing, cleco'ing, riveting, drilling drainage holes, and then plastic dipping it all....goodnight!

Canadian818

08-03-2016, 03:54 PM

Anyone have experience using RacePak digital dashes? I'm considering the IQ3s as opposed to the Subaru dash. It's around $900usd, and has everything for the street like turn signal, high beam, and Peking brake indicators, along with fuel level. It's a lot cheaper when I think about all the gauges it eliminates. I'd love to have a gps lap timer, but the higher end IQ3 with that is almost twice the price! I'm sure there's something else I can get seperatly later, maybe with integrated video. Anyone use these? Recommend anything else? Thanks

Frank818

08-03-2016, 06:57 PM

Wayne Presley

08-03-2016, 09:47 PM

I like the AIM MXs/MXG for a full function dash with GPS/laptiming/datalogging. The MXS strada or MXL strada for a dash only. http://www.aim-sportline.com/eng/index_car.htm I sell the AIM systems

Or the Dash2 which can be upgraded to the Dash2Pro at a later date http://www.race-technology.com/gb/racing/products/display-products/dash2

Canadian818

08-03-2016, 10:21 PM

Nice stuff man!

About the engine cover, mine is at exactly 3" calculating the 1.5" of the tube. I admit I pushed fwd about 1/16 to 1/8 the side sails to have a better seat on the front fenders so that pushed the cover the same distance, but negligible. Still I had to trim a lot around the roll bar. You lucky B with a better molded cover. :) Savor that moment as there are other moments which are quite more difficult. :(

Oh I'm sure I'll have my share of issues fitting both my front and rear wheels under the body. However, that's self inflicted, lol.

I like the AIM MXs/MXG for a full function dash with GPS/laptiming/datalogging. The MXS strada or MXL strada for a dash only. http://www.aim-sportline.com/eng/index_car.htm I sell the AIM systems

Or the Dash2 which can be upgraded to the Dash2Pro at a later date http://www.race-technology.com/gb/racing/products/display-products/dash2

I was hoping you would chime in on this Wayne, thanks. I somehow missed the strada line from AIM, and I never even heard of the Dash2. They're both just over the 1000usd mark so very comparable in price to the IQ3. I know the AIM units get rave reviews, not sure about the Dash2, but I like that its upgradable. My only concern is how easily they'll communicate with the Infinity. The iq3 is advertised to be compatible with it.

Wayne Presley

08-04-2016, 07:05 AM

I was hoping you would chime in on this Wayne, thanks. I somehow missed the strada line from AIM, and I never even heard of the Dash2. They're both just over the 1000usd mark so very comparable in price to the IQ3. I know the AIM units get rave reviews, not sure about the Dash2, but I like that its upgradable. My only concern is how easily they'll communicate with the Infinity. The iq3 is advertised to be compatible with it.

They are pretty much Plug and Play via the CAN connections. Hook up 2 wires and everything the ECU sees the dash sees.

Canadian818

08-05-2016, 11:04 AM

They are pretty much Plug and Play via the CAN connections. Hook up 2 wires and everything the ECU sees the dash sees.

After some reading I think the MXS Strada will be the way to go. I don't need it yet, lots to do, and for initial startup a laptop will suffice. When the time comes Wayne, I'll contact you about a price.

So I finally put this thing on the ground, and "shut the front door" this thing is low!!! Does everyone just get blown away by that the first time? It's been two days and I still can't believe it when I go out in the garage.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/22973B46-F0B4-463D-B744-FE78FE36C244.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/22973B46-F0B4-463D-B744-FE78FE36C244.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/4ED47ACD-5634-421C-B9C7-05D779AF0674.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/4ED47ACD-5634-421C-B9C7-05D779AF0674.jpg.html)

So I rolled it out in the driveway to start my rough alignment. My garage has a drain in the middle so it's very uneven, everything sits on 3 jack stands. My driveway is perfectly level side to side a an even 3.8 degree slope. Great for adjusting toe, no good for caster, but in my head it should work for camber if the wheel is strait and the chassis and ground are level side to side. However I'm showing -3 degrees front camber before I start adjusting, which from what I've been reading should be impossible. It does however visibly look quite cambered.

Also, does anyone else have a taller rear tire then the front? My fronts measure at 25" and my rears at 26", so should I rake the chassis a 1/2"? Since they're taller than most, I figured I should set ride a little higher so the suspension rests where it should. And adjusting ride height is a huge PITA with the wheels on, but it would take forever to take them on and off a dozen times since there's no way of knowing how much to spin them for the desired drop. My current ride height is 5.375" front and 5.875" rear. To get the rear that low the spring collar had to be lowered about 1/2" from Wayne's recommended preload. I'm guessing a combination of tall tire and lighter engine(with turbo off too).

As always, thoughts and comments are welcome.

Hindsight

08-05-2016, 01:56 PM

Congrats on the milestone and yes, literally everyone including myself went "woah" the first time off the jack stands.

I am running staggered too but I dont think it matters for rude height. I will set the frame with about 1/4" rake.

When doing alignment, I like to put each tire on a large cement paver. Between that and the tire i put a sandwich of two 1/8" plexiglass (from lowes or HD) with grease in between. Then i get a laser level, the kind that self levels and projects a vertical and horizontal line. I use the horizontal line to find perfect level and then add additional 1/8" plexiglass squares under any tire that needs it untill all 4 are level. Doesnt have to be on the beam, you can measure up or down to the beam from the pavers.

I was able to get tons of camber too, but prob what you will find is you have little to no caster. Adding caster robs your camber so you have to cut down rear control arm nut tube and the studs to shorten. I need to do that myself, just as soon as I finish the exhaust update. With 3 degrees of caster, I couldnt get more than about -0.75 camber.

Can't wait to see how this rotary drives. Should be awesome on the track.

Canadian818

08-05-2016, 02:03 PM

Ah, that explains the camber thanks. Maybe I should just take my time and build the car up to level in the garage like you did and get it bang on. In your alignment thread you mentioned that there was a pic of making the rear lateral links parallel, but I couldn't find it.

Hindsight

08-05-2016, 02:31 PM

Showing camber setup:
https://imgur.com/UrbX4Hz

Caster setup:
https://imgur.com/cUutzj6

Getting all tires level:
https://imgur.com/Y9tY0oH

What you are looking for:
First check inside, and zero it out here:
http://i.imgur.com/Cx7sam2.jpg

Next check outside and ensure it is still at zero. If so, you are parallel else adjust and recheck.
https://imgur.com/FL5SiCM

One more thing: your laser level device should stay in one spot. You can locate it where it will hit all the blocks or cone close. Use some angle iron as shown in the pic to hang the ruler a few inches off each block if you have to in order to hit the beam (though I didnt need to hang it iff on this side but I did on the other side of the car). If you use the angle on all four blocks whether you need it ir not, it keeps the measurements consistent. Man this is hard to explain, esp typing on a phone lol.

wleehendrick

08-05-2016, 03:13 PM

So I finally put this thing on the ground, and "shut the front door" this thing is low!!! Does everyone just get blown away by that the first time? It's been two days and I still can't believe it when I go out in the garage.

Yup; even though I've had mine rolling before, it's been on jack-stands for a year and I had gotten used to working on it and climbing in it that high. It's not done yet, but a couple weeks ago, I had to drop it down to the ground and rolled it out to the driveway when we put an epoxy floor in the garage, and had the same reaction... this thing's a friggen go-cart!

Also, does anyone else have a taller rear tire then the front? My fronts measure at 25" and my rears at 26", so should I rake the chassis a 1/2"? Since they're taller than most, I figured I should set ride a little higher so the suspension rests where it should. And adjusting ride height is a huge PITA with the wheels on, but it would take forever to take them on and off a dozen times since there's no way of knowing how much to spin them for the desired drop. My current ride height is 5.375" front and 5.875" rear. To get the rear that low the spring collar had to be lowered about 1/2" from Wayne's recommended preload. I'm guessing a combination of tall tire and lighter engine(with turbo off too).

I stuck to the recommended tire OD which is 1" larger in the rear: 24" in front and 25" in back (215/40-17 and 255/35-18 rubber) You may have some rubbing issues, particularly that larger. As far as ride height, to keep the suspension geometry the same and provide some additional clearance, setting the ride height 0.5" higher to account for the 1" larger diameter sounds reasonable to me.

Canadian818

08-05-2016, 04:39 PM

Canadian818

08-05-2016, 05:08 PM

I stuck to the recommended tire OD which is 1" larger in the rear: 24" in front and 25" in back (215/40-17 and 255/35-18 rubber) You may have some rubbing issues, particularly that larger. As far as ride height, to keep the suspension geometry the same and provide some additional clearance, setting the ride height 0.5" higher to account for the 1" larger diameter sounds reasonable to me.

Thanks for confirming it sounds right, sometimes things sound good in my head until I say it out loud and see someone's reaction, haha. I have rubbing issues, and that was expected. I have to start cutting to fit, but first I thought an alignment was a good idea so I don't have to clearance it twice.

It really bugged me that FFR limited us so much on tire size. IMO this car needs its wheelbase extended 4", front and rear wheels an inch forward and rearward respectively and 2" in the cockpit. Since I was not consulted on its design I'm forced to adapt what I feel it should have had to what I was given.

Hindsight

08-05-2016, 05:12 PM

Yes you adjust it with the upper link that attaches to the firewall. Its a VERY sensitive adjustment. A little goes a long way.

Frank818

08-05-2016, 06:05 PM

Cool! So much space in that engine bay!!!!!

Yeah I too was impressed by the ****ing low ride. Check out my last update (will do after writing this!) on my thread about that.

5" of the ground up front? I can't get more than 4.3 or something, maybe you got taller tires than I have. We are limited in tire sizes if we want to keep it without modifications (which you won't).

Canadian818

08-05-2016, 10:12 PM

Yes you adjust it with the upper link that attaches to the firewall. Its a VERY sensitive adjustment. A little goes a long way.

Thank you sir! You've been most helpful.

Cool! So much space in that engine bay!!!!!

Yeah I too was impressed by the ****ing low ride. Check out my last update (will do after writing this!) on my thread about that.

5" of the ground up front? I can't get more than 4.3 or something, maybe you got taller tires than I have. We are limited in tire sizes if we want to keep it without modifications (which you won't).

Yep, lots of space! I should have my turbo manifold studs here next week, I'm excited to fill up one side of the engine bay. Soon I'll need to figure my intercooler and oil cooler locations. My friend came by yesterday and has me really doubting if my efforts to run a a2a intercooler will be worth it. The plan as of now is to either place the intercooler at the driver side scoop like Dan with air exiting into the engine bay, or form the scoop to feed a 5" hose going back to the intercooler by the rear bumper sealed off to the bumper and hose.

Canadian818

08-31-2016, 08:20 PM

Been a few weeks, I was away for work. However there was a big box from summit, small bag from Full-race, and a msg from my local shop saying my AEM stuff was in! Gotta love that! I've been picking at the car the past week, not much to post about. Finally finished porting my manifold and tapped for my Full-race studs. Just waiting on my dual Egt gauge kit to arrive before mounting the turbo. Installed 500# springs in the rear, finished welding up my rear LCA's and powder coated them. I now think I have everything needed for wiring, except for the ecu, but I won't need that for awhile. Hope to start laying out the AEM and painless harnesses tomorrow and make a plan of attack. My focus will be on the engine, everything else can wait.

My alignment took a lot longer than expected, big thanks to Hindsight for all the tips, they helped a lot. Obviously I'll need to adjust again once at full weight, but it needed to be close before I start hacking up fiberglass. I was extremely surprised at how much caster I was able to get, so much so that I had to re-read the instructions to make sure I was doing it right. Here's a pic of my setup and finished numbers...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CDEB0AE5-6DE6-4A1A-A9A7-C9F43991806F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CDEB0AE5-6DE6-4A1A-A9A7-C9F43991806F.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/E15E1FDE-B43B-4C8F-A6B6-060CE503E5E7.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/E15E1FDE-B43B-4C8F-A6B6-060CE503E5E7.jpg.html)

As you can see by my progress going down I lost camber and gained caster going down the list. However even at my final settings the rear upper adjustment wasn't maxed out on either side. There's still camber to be had and keep +6 caster.

Front
350# springs
+6* caster
-1.5* camber
3/16 total toe in
5" ride height (25" tires)

Rear
500# springs
-1* camber
1/4" total toe in
5.125" ride height (26" tires)

Hindsight

08-31-2016, 08:33 PM

Wow, I am really surprised you were able to hit those numbers. I wonder why you were able to get there and I was only able to get like -0.6 camber with 3 caster? Are you running the steel or aluminum control arms? I'm on the aluminum. I wonder if they are any different. Do you have a spacer shim at the rear of your lower control arm? My next steps are to use the eccentric bolt to get more camber without having to adjust the A-arms, and adding a whopping 1/2" spacer at the rear of the control arm. I hate doing that because I know it's going to really torque the bushing at the front of the control arm but I don't have many options.

Canadian818

08-31-2016, 08:48 PM

I'm using steel crontrol arms from an '07 NA. I was one of the first kits to get the non-slanted upper control arms, I don't recall them making any more changes to these. I'm also confused at the numbers I was able to get.

Hindsight

08-31-2016, 09:15 PM

Hmm, I'm kit #225 and I think I have the slanted upper control arms..... I wonder if that is why. Or if I have them on upside down?

Canadian818

08-31-2016, 09:17 PM

Hmm, I'm kit #225 and I think I have the slanted upper control arms..... I wonder if that is why. Or if I have them on upside down?

Post a pic of your upper control arm.

Hindsight

08-31-2016, 09:39 PM

Here you go. I guessthese are the non-angled ones after all....

http://i.imgur.com/QiKJ6eBh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LfhZe51h.jpg

Canadian818

08-31-2016, 10:13 PM

Yeah, those look like mine. I'm happy with my numbers, but feel unconfident given others experiences.

Canadian818

09-01-2016, 12:31 AM

I mocked up my A2A intercooler tonight. I'm going to order this CX-Racing intercooler (http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0078&Category_Code=IC40CO), which is ironically made for an RX7. It's going to be a tight fit, it'll sit a little higher than in the pics because of the tapered end tanks. I'll also have to relocate the gas cap further back on the quarter panel, but this will be minor compared to the fender mods. I also need to reroute my coolant hose through my lower firewall. I feel with everything sealed on the front side of the IC and one of Kurk's scoops, I should be ok for cooling. It's a rather large IC, and 4" thick.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F3A9B533-4381-44C0-8DE5-14C013640109.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F3A9B533-4381-44C0-8DE5-14C013640109.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/90DDDD55-50AF-4BC2-AB54-230DB9323C48.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/90DDDD55-50AF-4BC2-AB54-230DB9323C48.jpg.html)

Frank818

09-01-2016, 07:27 AM

Been a few weeks, I was away for work.

Yeahyeah, that's your excuse for no working on the car? :)

Front
350# springs
+6* caster
-1.5* camber
3/16 total toe in
5" ride height (25" tires)

That's damn awesome.
Remind me what you did to get that much caster? Just bolting the FFR parts on or you moded something, changed a part, added a part, removed a part...?

Hindsight

09-01-2016, 07:48 AM

Looking forward to seeing how that intercooler works. I think I may move my oil cooler there.

Canadian818

09-01-2016, 08:51 AM

Yeahyeah, that's your excuse for no working on the car? :)

That's damn awesome.
Remind me what you did to get that much caster? Just bolting the FFR parts on or you moded something, changed a part, added a part, removed a part...?

Yeah yeah yeah, excuses excuses, lol. I've done no mods to get that much caster, which is weird. The only thing I can think of is that I haven't seen anyone else use an '06-07 NA as a donor. Most donors are older, newer wrx's, or people just got the '06 aluminum arms.

Looking forward to seeing how that intercooler works. I think I may move my oil cooler there.

I was going to put an oil coolers on the other side to match, but I'm afraid it won't be enough. The rotary relies too much on oil cooling to risk it, so I think I'll run dual 25 rows up front like a few others have done and just use my right side vent/scoop for an intake.

Hindsight

09-01-2016, 09:05 AM

I was going to put an oil coolers on the other side to match, but I'm afraid it won't be enough. The rotary relies too much on oil cooling to risk it, so I think I'll run dual 25 rows up front like a few others have done and just use my right side vent/scoop for an intake.

How soon do you think you will get to that? I'm very curious to see how you do it and where you mount it. Given I was hitting 240 degree oil temps on the track, causing me to have to stop racing before the session was over, I need to re-do something with my oil cooler setup. I would put one in front but was hoping to use the front vents for brake cooling ducts.

Canadian818

09-01-2016, 09:22 AM

How soon do you think you will get to that? I'm very curious to see how you do it and where you mount it. Given I was hitting 240 degree oil temps on the track, causing me to have to stop racing before the session was over, I need to re-do something with my oil cooler setup. I would put one in front but was hoping to use the front vents for brake cooling ducts.

A few pages back in the build threads Wayne posted a "quick build" thread which made us all feel bad about how long we're taking, lol. Anyway, there's a pic in there showing his dual front coolers. I believe chad also did on his R, and I'm not sure who else. I wouldn't worry too much about brake cooling, I don't think anyone is overheating the brakes with the 818, too light.

Canadian818

09-21-2016, 11:32 PM

I don't have much to update, although I have been making progress, and have some questions for you fine gentleman. But first, what I've been up to.

I'm using a painless harness for whatever my AEM harness doesn't cover. Painless does a good job of labelling their harness, however you have to keep in mind that's it's meant for a 20ft long muscle car with the engine in the front. So I started by laying out the harness and grouping the sections to suit the 818. Not gonna lie, it's initially overwhelming, but one wire at a time, lol.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/32DC16B0-4B8B-431C-82CE-30AF4409242C.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/32DC16B0-4B8B-431C-82CE-30AF4409242C.jpg.html)

Laid things out, there's no shortage of wire length. I also finally got my EGR sensors so I was able to finish my turbo manifold, wrap it, and install the turbo. I already have everything to make my exhaust, but I'll leave that for when I'm inevitably waiting on something to be delivered.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/7BBD65CC-9D47-46E5-A5D4-80579AA63011.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/7BBD65CC-9D47-46E5-A5D4-80579AA63011.jpg.html)

I spent most of my day studying pinouts, schematics, and instruction manuals. Before this car, the extent of my wiring experience was some trailer lights and an mechanical to electric fan swap. So it's been a steep learning curve. What gets 5v, or 12v, what needs a relay and what doesn't. The nice thing about both harness is what needs to be fused already is. I also played with the AEM software, and while the tuning side is still well over my head, the initial setup is simple enough. My advice is to make good notes, understand what goes where before you start adding wires or terminating.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/C337AA2B-664F-4E41-A44A-4AD3C8B1A6FD.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/C337AA2B-664F-4E41-A44A-4AD3C8B1A6FD.jpg.html)

I spent about an hour removing what I needed from the Subaru harness, and I really feel for those who "dieted" the stock harness, what a nightmare!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/1F4947B5-DB49-46E3-BAD2-26543A0932C1.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/1F4947B5-DB49-46E3-BAD2-26543A0932C1.jpg.html)

What's everyone's thoughts on heat shrink butt connectors versus a bare butt connector and seperate heat shrink? A friend was recommending the later, but it just seems easier to use the others. I can't imagine it mattering.

And where's a good place to find Subaru schematics? My donor was a 07 NA, and I need to find the DBW pedal pinouts, I believe they call it the APP. Also need to know what wires what on the VSS.

Bob_n_Cincy

09-22-2016, 01:09 AM

What's everyone's thoughts on heat shrink butt connectors versus a bare butt connector and seperate heat shrink? A friend was recommending the later, but it just seems easier to use the others. I can't imagine it mattering.

And where's a good place to find Subaru schematics? My donor was a 07 NA, and I need to find the DBW pedal pinouts, I believe they call it the APP. Also need to know what wires what on the VSS.

I have been the chief electrical engineer on building over 200 vehicles (cars, motorcycles, and trucks) over the last 10 years. This is what I specify.

I only use Non-Insulated Butt Connector, Brazed Barrel, 22-18 Ga. Del-city 21005 or equivalent.

Heat Shrink Tubing, Flexible 0.187" Adhesive Lined, Corrosion Resistant, Flame Retardant, Fluid Resistant, Self Extinguishing, Water Resistant(4.8mm) 3 to 1 Black 4.00' (1.22m)

Ideal 30-429 Multi-Crimp Tool. I've looked long for a better crimp tool. This is the best for what we are doing.

pm me you email address. I have 06-07 NA/ wrx /sti wiring manual.
Bob

DrunkenSailor

09-22-2016, 08:10 AM

I also have a PDF of the service manual for the 06/07, including the H4SO engine if you still need it. PM me if so.

Canadian818

09-22-2016, 09:02 AM

Thank you both for the offer, Bob I PM'd you my email address. Also, I'll go with your suggestion on the non insulated butt connectors.

Frank818

09-22-2016, 06:12 PM

Adam, no one will ask you that question but I am lolll, why do you have 2 glasses of water on your table?

Scargo

09-22-2016, 07:20 PM

Bob,
Thanks for the good info! 3M seems to have the only shrink tubing (http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/23026O/3mtm-heat-shrink-tubing-eps-300.pdf) that meets your criteria. I wonder what you think of "Waterproof, Solder Sleeve Heat Shrink Butt Wire Cable Splice Connectors"? I bought a selection of these on Amazon and see that they are now discontinued. I like what I have seen from their ease of use and performance so far. I have had experience doing Mil-Spec wiring and soldering. I know that soldering can create stiff joints that can fail under vibration, thus (I think) the preference for crimping by the military.
To Canadian818 (sorry, I forget your name): I wonder why you went with Painless and what you think of them. I bought a fuse block assembly from them and was struck by the unplated connectors, cheap wire and overall low quality. It seemed to be typical Chinese crap. How is your experience?

Canadian818

09-22-2016, 08:04 PM

Adam, no one will ask you that question but I am lolll, why do you have 2 glasses of water on your table?

You notice the oddest things Frank, I believe it was my daughters glass, haha.

I wonder why you went with Painless and what you think of them. I bought a fuse block assembly from them and was struck by the unplated connectors, cheap wire and overall low quality. It seemed to be typical Chinese crap. How is your experience?

To be honest Scargo I just don't know any better. All these years of Painless commercials on the power block and local availability are probably the reason I went with them, and I've nothing to compare it to, so I can't really judge the quality.

Scargo

09-25-2016, 09:29 PM

Fair enough, Adam.
There are a number of types of wire suitable for automotive use. Here's some basics of what's available. Besides PVC, You can get thinner and lighter cross-linked wire insulation. Requirements for aircraft wiring are pretty stringent and some building race cars use wire meeting those specifications. After experiencing a racing heat related fire and seeing numerous engine bay fires I believe in using higher temp insulation for the engine and engine bay. I recently bought a pigtail (for a new 7 pound, 55 amp alternator) off Ebay and it was PVC junk wire and cheap plastic connector.
PVC Automotive Wire:
GPT - Type GPT automotive wire is intended for use whenever SAE J-1128 specifies general circuit wiring. GPT automotive primary wire features extruded insulation, and has a recommended temperature range of -40°C to 80°C.
TWP - Type TWP automotive wire is a lead-free PVC option. It is thin-walled, lightweight, and small, so it is a good choice for cramped automotive applications. TWP automotive primary wire has a maximum temperature rating of 105°C.
HDT - Type HDT automotive primary wire is general circuitry wire, but it is less common than the other types of automotive wire. However, it offers greater physical protection than those types because it has the thickest wall. HDT automotive primary wire meets the requirements of SAE J-1128, and can be used in cars, boats, buses and RVs.
Cross-Linked Automotive Wire:
GXL - Type GXL (general purpose cross-linked) XLPE automotive primary wire is the most common type. It works with most standard automotive wire connectors and may be applied in engine compartments where higher heat resistance is required according to SAE J-1128. GXL automotive wire is thin-walled, giving it a small diameter for hard-to-fit areas in trucks and trailers. Its recommended temperature range is -51°C to 125°C.
SXL – Type SXL (XLP) (special purpose cross-linked) XLPE cross-linked automotive wire has a temperature range of -40°C to 125°C, 60V,, so it may be used in engine compartments where higher heat resistance is required according to SAE J-1128. SXL automotive primary wire has a standard wall thickness.
TXL – Type TXL (thin wall, cross-linked Polyethylene) XLPE automotive primary wire is the extra-thin wall version of the cross-linked wire, making it the smallest and most lightweight option. It meets SAE J-1560 and SAE J1128.specifications. Like the other types of cross-linked automotive wire, TXL automotive wire has a temperature range of -40°C to 125°C (257°F).

Tefzel wire is a brand of flame-retardant ETFE insulation is thin and light, but resistant to abrasions, cuts, fuel, oil, and most solvents. Tefzel is multi-strand tinned copper automotive and marine grade wire.
There are also aerospace and military grades that are PTFE or PET insulated or double insulated with Polyalkene and then Polyvinylidene Fluoride. $$... Spec 55 wire seems to be the high-end race car wire of choice.

Canadian818

09-26-2016, 03:12 AM

There are a number of types of wire suitable for automotive use. Here's some basics of what's available.

First off Scargo, thanks for all the info. Secondly, you and I have very different versions of what's "basic", haha. Besides what was included with the AEM and Painless harnesses, this is what I've been using...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/FE4DEA44-DCB0-408F-A072-791C525E2ACB.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/FE4DEA44-DCB0-408F-A072-791C525E2ACB.jpg.html)

I don't have anymore info on it. It's quite flexible and the insulation is thicker than what's provided in my harnesses.

I've been busy, and fabricated a mount for my coils. It's upside down in this pic, I was starting the coil harness. I also went ahead and powder coated my upper intake manifold because it looked like crap after shaving off some unnecessary tabs. I didn't bother with the lower intake manifold as it will be one of the first parts upgraded with the fuel system after getting it on the road. Most all my engine wiring is complete, just the alternator, starter and some grounds to finish up. Obviously still lots to do before startup, but it's finally all coming together!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8D7815F7-B84D-4E63-AFDC-9DC990337703.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8D7815F7-B84D-4E63-AFDC-9DC990337703.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/77B1B2B9-2D5F-472E-9023-EE35E3987F92.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/77B1B2B9-2D5F-472E-9023-EE35E3987F92.jpg.html)

longislandwrx

09-26-2016, 02:35 PM

Adam, no one will ask you that question but I am lolll, why do you have 2 glasses of water on your table?

One is water. One is straight vodka.

because 12 hours of wiring.

Frank818

09-26-2016, 06:43 PM

One is water. One is straight vodka.

because 12 hours of wiring.

Damn right!!!!

Finally Adam we get to see some kind of engine! Looks great with the glossy black!
You've got a weird TBody and a starter so similar to my racing Porsche one. It must be cool then. :)

Hey I saw Viper parked yesterday while I was walking around, recent model. Thought of you immediately cuz... it had kick-*** wide tires!!! lolll

Canadian818

09-26-2016, 10:11 PM

Damn right!!!!

Finally Adam we get to see some kind of engine! Looks great with the glossy black!
You've got a weird TBody and a starter so similar to my racing Porsche one. It must be cool then. :)

Hey I saw Viper parked yesterday while I was walking around, recent model. Thought of you immediately cuz... it had kick-*** wide tires!!! lolll

Haha, I oogle at my tires all the time. I'm happy with the black, the exhaust will be wrapped black, and I plan to paint my other transmission black as well before installing it. I'm considering powder coating the intake piping, but it might be too much. I could do another color but I don't want it to be tacky. I went with blue coolant hose and I'm already second guessing if it looks tacky. Need to make some plug wires soon too, and not sure what color.

The throttle body is an GM LS3 unit flipped upside down, starter is Subaru, but from an older model. Hopefully I'll get to start on the exhaust by this weekend!

longislandwrx

09-29-2016, 08:19 AM

Canadian818

09-29-2016, 08:58 AM

I used the MSD plug wires on my RX7 was impressed with the quality. I'm guessing you need something custom because of your coils?

http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/MSD/Spark-Plug-Wires/Mazda-RX_7-MSD-Ignition-Wire-Set-_-Super-Conductor-_-32919/771901/

Yes, I'll have to make my plug wires. I believe most manufacturers make a DIY kit, and I had another friend recommend MSD as well.

Slowly making progress this week, much of my time being spent studying schematics. The only thing left to figure out is the ignition switch pinouts and how to wire a relay for it. I'm picking up a battery today, and I need to fab a bracket for it to mount next to the engine.

Frank818

09-29-2016, 10:51 AM

What are you using as coilpack? Or distributor pack. Or maybe coil on plug but certainly not OEM from that engine year (what year again?).

Canadian818

09-29-2016, 11:17 AM

What are you using as coilpack? Or distributor pack. Or maybe coil on plug but certainly not OEM from that engine year (what year again?).

I'm using 4 AEM smart coils, the OEM setup uses 3 coils and an ignitor. Not sure what year my engine is from, but I suspect '96-'02 because of the 16bit ecu it came with.

Frank818

09-29-2016, 11:29 AM

Canadian818

09-29-2016, 12:42 PM

Oh, so that's one coil per plug meaning it's not a wasted spark it's almost like coil on plug, you can control spark ignition and duration. As long as your ECU will allow you to change parms. Mine can if I had these. I start to wonder if I should. loll 19amps max each but since pretty much only one at a time is working then the current draw may well be under 25amps max. That's more than my coilpack which is fused at 10a but those look more powerful.

Yeah I believe they call it sequential, but basically coil on plug. I can definitely adjust dwell and timing, but for now it's way over my head. It seems my intercooler and oil coolers arrive today, so I'll be busy fitting and fabricating for the next week. Does everyone fill their oil coolers and lines when installing? I'm just thinking those lines all the way to the front will take awhile of cranking to prime.

Frank818

09-29-2016, 06:29 PM

Yeah sequential firing. But sequential injection makes a much bigger difference over batch firing, rather than sequential firing over wasted spark.

I filled up both hoses to my cooler as well as my cooler. My thermostat hasn't open yet, didn't reach 80C in the driveway.

Where will you fit the cooler? Which bumper or fender opening will feed it?

Canadian818

09-29-2016, 10:13 PM

I'm using two of these 25 row coolers in the front "brake ducts"

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/8AE43AAB-8014-4BB7-A7C7-39542329F20B.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/8AE43AAB-8014-4BB7-A7C7-39542329F20B.jpg.html)

Picked up my Deka ETX18L today, here's where I'm going to put it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/22A877F1-B7E5-44BE-87E8-382211518AD2.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/22A877F1-B7E5-44BE-87E8-382211518AD2.jpg.html)

Also, it looks like my intercooler is going to work. This is a rough fit, finial fit will be after the fender is modified. So it will be on more of an angle once I make the room for the wheels. I'll have to move the filler cap for the gas tank either a foot forward or back.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/063332F1-D1B9-4CBD-A9CB-6F3BE95E946D.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/063332F1-D1B9-4CBD-A9CB-6F3BE95E946D.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/B4494D20-26D2-441F-BA3C-5AF97E466F10.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/B4494D20-26D2-441F-BA3C-5AF97E466F10.jpg.html)

Frank818

09-30-2016, 06:28 AM

I'm using that exact same cooler man, except in black and I have one. And in the back, which I will struggle to direct air into but I'll see later.

On your IC, will the upper pipe route over or under the 1.5" square tube? The top of your IC is very very close to the engine cover's side scoop. Have you test fitted the cover on with the IC installed?

Nice game last night, Crosby, Marchand and Bergeron are the best! Well, Price as well. :)

Canadian818

09-30-2016, 04:37 PM

On your IC, will the upper pipe route over or under the 1.5" square tube? The top of your IC is very very close to the engine cover's side scoop. Have you test fitted the cover on with the IC installed?

The top IC port will go under the frame, shouldn't be a problem. I'm starting the exhaust today, here's what I'm thinking for tip location. Originally I was going to go upside down of this, but this matches the other lines of the bumper better.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F4FD5C2A-41A3-40A4-8CA3-DA41009FC5D6.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F4FD5C2A-41A3-40A4-8CA3-DA41009FC5D6.jpg.html)

I have a question for those with experience building harnesses. I've seen conflicting thoughts on whether or not I need to use a relay between the ignition switch and starter. Some say yes, some say no. I'm not sure why it would be needed, all the heavy current is flowing from the battery directly to the starter. Any opinions?

Hindsight

09-30-2016, 05:57 PM

Hey Adam, the exhaust looks really cool! I will be interested to see if you get any fumes in the cabin from that location.

On wiring for the starter, the two relays that sit between the switch and the starter are just there for safety. One of them ensures you can't start the car without the clutch pedal depressed, and the other goes to the keyless entry system. You don't *need* either of those really.... but the one for the clutch is nice to have to keep from cranking over the car while it's in gear and ramming into the car or cement wall parked in front of you. You may be aware of this but the actual relay for the starter is the starter solenoid which is mounted directly to the starter. On my car, I added a stand-alone solenoid (like you'd find on a 60's domestic car) which I bolted to the front inside firewall just under the dash and behind my center console. A thick wire then goes from that all the way back to the starter. It connects to both the starter and the starter solenoid trigger wire. The wire off the ignition switch then just goes to my stand-alone solenoid. The thought process in my doing this is to avoid a very large gauge wire running most of the length of the car, up over the engine while being energized all the time. Now, with my setup, that wire is only hot when I am cranking the starter. Works very nicely.

Canadian818

09-30-2016, 06:21 PM

Hey Adam, the exhaust looks really cool! I will be interested to see if you get any fumes in the cabin from that location.

Thanks, and something I have planned should eliminate any chance of exhaust coming forward. Unfortunately that's at least 6 months away.

On wiring for the starter, the two relays that sit between the switch and the starter are just there for safety. One of them ensures you can't start the car without the clutch pedal depressed, and the other goes to the keyless entry system. You don't *need* either of those really.... but the one for the clutch is nice to have to keep from cranking over the car while it's in gear and ramming into the car or cement wall parked in front of you. You may be aware of this but the actual relay for the starter is the starter solenoid which is mounted directly to the starter. On my car, I added a stand-alone solenoid (like you'd find on a 60's domestic car) which I bolted to the front inside firewall just under the dash and behind my center console. A thick wire then goes from that all the way back to the starter. It connects to both the starter and the starter solenoid trigger wire. The wire off the ignition switch then just goes to my stand-alone solenoid. The thought process in my doing this is to avoid a very large gauge wire running most of the length of the car, up over the engine while being energized all the time. Now, with my setup, that wire is only hot when I am cranking the starter. Works very nicely.

Forgot about the clutch switch for the starter. My ecu has a pinout for the clutch, so it's currently wired into that. I'll have to read the manual and see if has any provisions for starting, if not I'll just splice it. Thanks

xxguitarist

09-30-2016, 06:49 PM

Based on our experience, yes, high center exhaust exit results in fumes in the cabin.

Frank818

09-30-2016, 06:51 PM

That's the best exhaust exit so far to my eyes, again I envy you. Get that running quickly!
Why 3? You got 3 rotors right? The 3rd is the dump tube?

On the IC, I come back again about it, the top of the IC really looks to be above the tube, maybe not the pipe outlet but the top looks like. Just make sure you test fit it with engine cover, it stresses me out not to know if it will hit on the scoop or not.

Frank818

09-30-2016, 06:52 PM

Based on our experience, yes, high center exhaust exit results in fumes in the cabin.

Why didn't we see that in FFR's wind tunnel testing and videos?

Scargo

09-30-2016, 07:09 PM

Listen to Andrew...

Canadian818

09-30-2016, 07:19 PM

That's the best exhaust exit so far to my eyes, again I envy you. Get that running quickly!
Why 3? You got 3 rotors right? The 3rd is the dump tube?

Thanks frank! I'm really happy with the look. IMO the Zonda R is one of the most beautiful race cars ever built, this is my little piece of Pagani. It's a 3-1 collector so it's a single 3" on the other side. The reason for 3 instead of 4 is because I want to get a bezel machined in the shape of a rotor to go around it.

On the IC, I come back again about it, the top of the IC really looks to be above the tube, maybe not the pipe outlet but the top looks like. Just make sure you test fit it with engine cover, it stresses me out not to know if it will hit on the scoop or not.

Haha, relax Frank, it was just hanging there by some wire. It's a very rough location to show you guys. It will actually be completely inside the side sail when finished. I will be sure to test fit the cover before fitting the upper hose though, don't worry, haha.

Frank818

09-30-2016, 07:39 PM

IMO the Zonda R is one of the most beautiful race cars ever built

You've said it. Done. We can close this forum, the truth has spoken and nothing will ever come close to it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXpB_9EvHPo

2nd one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLvCgXIwqcs

You and I are going to team up and buy one... of its wheel with our 2nd mortgages on the houses.
:)

Canadian818

09-30-2016, 08:18 PM

Oh man that second video is sick, I like how he tightens his belt at the beginning of the long strait.

Canadian818

10-04-2016, 04:06 PM

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/1B340D07-1D98-42D0-8ED2-D395D602A10B.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/1B340D07-1D98-42D0-8ED2-D395D602A10B.jpg.html)

Fabbing my exhaust today. I'm going to have to hear shield around the cat, and I'll probably wrap it too. My only other option would be to come strait out from the turbo and doing a big "S" to have the tips where I want them.

Speedy G

10-04-2016, 05:14 PM

Looking awesome! One of my favorite builds!

Speedy G

Canadian818

10-04-2016, 05:42 PM

Looking awesome! One of my favorite builds!

Speedy G

Thanks Speedy G!

So right after posting that pic I spent about 10 minutes staring at it on the car. The lazy side of me said welder'up, but that other side, the one that's always nagging "you know better Adam", insisted I do it right. In keeping with this builds theme of "what's the hardest possible way to do it, ok like that!", I've decided to pie cut my two 180* bends because I want it to be a tight fit. I'm gonna need more argon....uugghh

Frank818

10-04-2016, 06:23 PM

Man oh man there is SPACE in that engine bay!

Careful with that thinking of "you can do it better". You can always do it better until it's perfect, but at what cost. You're going to say that to yourself many times and in the end it will add one 1 year, 2 years, to your build for which after the fact you'd say "it wasn't worth it". I too want all to be absolutely perfect!!! But after a while trying to make it perfect I saw time flying, too fast, and money vanishing, too fast. So now I work quicker and for everything that isn't seen by the eye when the car rolls, I cut corners to catch up that time I previous lost in part. I could've lived with 80% perfect in many areas but no I went to 95-98 but it cost me months for that and no one will see or feel the benefits, not even me.

Depending on your goal, if you have that time and don't care spending it with money in some situations, then yes go for it, you'll be more than happy in the end. But if you plan on driving the car within a "reasonable" time frame, think twice and spend that extra time to where it really matters to you. Maybe the exhaust does!!! I'm not saying it doesn't, I'm just commenting on the thinking and to weigh your "perfect spots to reach". :)

Kurk818

10-05-2016, 10:37 AM

bbjones121

10-06-2016, 12:01 AM

Keep in mind the movement within the exhaust setup during driving. I have close to 3/4" of clearance around my tip penetration at the bottom corner of the rear bumper and still manage to find fiberglass residue transfer after a spirited drive. Also heat transfer.

I am trying to figure this out also. I don't want a big gap, so I am thinking of getting high temp silicone mat and making a tight fit bushing (cut holes in some cooking pan mats) that i will affix to there inside of the bumper.

This should help hold the tips in place. I have about a 1/4 gap around mine. As far as heat, fiberglass can take a lot. If I notice any issues, I will might make a high temp bezel.

Scargo

10-06-2016, 07:31 AM

It's hard for me to tell, but I think what is obstructed in the image is a V-band clamp. Seems it might be advantageous to have a flex coupling in there somewhere. It looks good, though!

Canadian818

10-06-2016, 08:40 AM

Keep in mind the movement within the exhaust setup during driving. I have close to 3/4" of clearance around my tip penetration at the bottom corner of the rear bumper and still manage to find fiberglass residue transfer after a spirited drive. Also heat transfer.

Thanks for the input. The reason for the tight fit on the tips is to keep them centered while I fab the exhaust. The whole area will be cut out and mesh installed. However your clearance suggestion is still relevant to the mesh, so I'll keep that in mind.

It's hard for me to tell, but I think what is obstructed in the image is a V-band clamp. Seems it might be advantageous to have a flex coupling in there somewhere. It looks good, though!

Yes there's a v-band connection at the turbo. I hadn't considered a flex joint, my plan was to make a mount supporting the muffler to the transmission. In theory, the 13b should move a lot less than the EJ.

Frank818

10-06-2016, 11:17 AM

That mount in question, will it absorb high frequency vibrations?

Canadian818

10-06-2016, 11:40 AM

That mount in question, will it absorb high frequency vibrations?

I was going to solid mount it with stainless flat bar. I figured the flat bar would allow a little movement.

wleehendrick

10-06-2016, 12:08 PM

In theory, the 13b should move a lot less than the EJ.

I don't think so... from videos other builders posted, most of the movement appears to be vertical movement of the tailpipe, there's little roll, but nearly all pitch. The cause of this in the 818 seems to be the wimpy stock trans mount flexing under load, exacerbated by the elimination of the Subie pitch stop. Roll about the crank doesn't look to be an issue, so if you're putting down similar torque with the 13b, you'll have the same pitch issue as if an EJ were doing the twisting.

The movement is pretty pronounced with the stock mounts, much less with upgraded, and I remember seeing someone rigged up a pitch stop to the cross brace which helped further. If it's an issue, your best bet is probably a beefier trans mount, and if that's not enough, rig up a pitch stop.

Canadian818

10-06-2016, 01:20 PM

My transmission mount was shortened significantly and then filled with urathane, the engine mounts are much stiffer than stock as well, so I guess we'll see how she moves soon.

Canadian818

10-06-2016, 01:26 PM

How much coolant is everyone using? I'm still using the factory radiator.

Frank818

10-06-2016, 07:21 PM

so I guess we'll see how she moves soon.

Oh!! You're planning a monster engine start pretty soon? :)

Frank818

10-06-2016, 07:23 PM

How much coolant is everyone using? I'm still using the factory radiator.

Damn, I think I used something like 23L. I had to flush 5 times so I might have lost some and it's more like 22L, but you see the point. Not sure how much coolant stays in Wayne's favorite engine.

I don't like the idea of a flat metal bar to act as a high frequency vibration absorber. It's metal. Metal is not very good to absorb high frequency vibrations cuz it's too dense. Low ones it's better cuz it gives it time to bend but high, it should transfer the vibrations from one side of the bar to the other and not absorb much. Maybe I don't understand what your planning, though.

RM1SepEx

10-06-2016, 08:04 PM

Frank818

10-07-2016, 06:24 PM

Adam, why is this rotary having 4 exhausts? Its got 4 rotors and you only got 3?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6AYHLwDDUs

Canadian818

10-07-2016, 07:03 PM

That's a custom 4 rotor race motor, like Mazda used on their 90's LeMans cars. All the RX7's came with 2 rotor's like mine, however there were some 3 rotor cars in Japan. Still working on my new exhaust layout, had to buy 20ft of tubing to get the extra 2ft I needed, and more argon, so much argon.

Frank818

10-07-2016, 07:15 PM

Canadian818

10-07-2016, 07:28 PM

Oh so you only got 2 rotors. lolll

Get out man!!! 20ft just for 2? Why? Then I hope you got those 20ft at a huge rebate, like Craig having his titanium bars for, well uhm, free? 2ft of pipes can be get for cheap on internet, I'm curious why you went with 20ft.

And why "so" much argon? Just get a tank and that'll do, trust me, you'll need it for another year.

No where local would sell by the foot. A performance shop had 5ft sections from vibrant for $145, but a local supplier had 20ft for $170. I couldn't justify buying the vibrant stuff, so now I'm set for a few projects, lol. As for argon, I have a small bottle, just that pie cutting is a lot of welding and a lot of gas is lost back purging.

iblackwe

10-07-2016, 09:09 PM

Hi adam,

I am curious to see if you had tried metal supermarkets on 75th st? I got all my exhaust tubing from them for dirt cheap! (I am also in Edmonton). I honestly can't wait until you are finished your build, I have always like the rotary motor and now in an 818 it will be even better. Any reason why your not going with an water to air intercooler?

We will have to get together sometime when both our cars are finished and go for a cruise. I believe there are two other 818's in Calgary, one is complete (Dave's) and I think the other is almost there.

Ian

Canadian818

10-07-2016, 10:14 PM

Hey Ian, how did I not know there was another 818 in Edmonton? Crazy. No reason to wait until spring to get together, your more than welcome to come check out my progress and have a chat.

As for the A2A cooler, the only logical reason is weight. Unfortunately, like with every other choice I've made, it's more about the path less traveled.

I did try Metal Supermarket, they're my go to place. However they don't stock what I needed, just 0.125" wall.

iblackwe

10-07-2016, 10:50 PM

Yea for sure, I would definitely like to see your progress. I am currently working on the body and interior of my car. At some point this winter I will be pulling the motor again to fix an oil leak I found so I might just have to replace it with a B13 rotary... ha.

Well that is a large intercooler so I am sure it will work 10 fold better than the stock WRX. I would like to know where do you get your exhaust tubing bent? I have yet to see a tubing bender that will do 3" for a reasonable price.

Ian

Canadian818

10-07-2016, 11:10 PM

I had previously ordered some U-bends from Columbia River, but now I'm taking a different approach to accomplish some tighter bends.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/361BB0EE-FC54-4F19-A987-E28744FC839F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/361BB0EE-FC54-4F19-A987-E28744FC839F.jpg.html)

Frank818

10-08-2016, 05:58 PM

You fab'ed this?

bbjones121

10-08-2016, 06:04 PM

Canadian818

10-08-2016, 07:53 PM

You fab'ed this?

I did. First time experimenting with pie cutting pipe, and to be honest, I may never buy a bend again.

Looking good

Thank you sir!

Hope to have it finished tomorrow...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/92F40FBA-1432-4DC5-83EF-B2951619D44A.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/92F40FBA-1432-4DC5-83EF-B2951619D44A.jpg.html)

svanlare

10-08-2016, 11:21 PM

Thats a lot of welding, but turned out good.

Scargo

10-09-2016, 05:19 AM

Adam, That's pretty! Is that steel or stainless? If SS, are you back-purging or using something like Weldcote Metals Solar Flux Type B (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IN6JXT2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)?

Canadian818

10-09-2016, 09:11 AM

It's all SS, and I'm back purging. I've never tried that flux, maybe next time.

Scargo

10-09-2016, 09:55 AM

Canadian818

10-09-2016, 03:46 PM

It works really well. It's great if you don't have to worry about it flaking off and going downstream and causing problems or if you can remove it as you go. it becomes glass-like and chips off fairly easily.

I'll have to try it next time, probably cheaper than argon too. This weekend is thanksgiving in Canada, so unfortunately turkey is going to keep me from getting all the welding done, but here's what I've come up with.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/584998D6-C8A1-4220-AE88-8DA9CAF51D5E.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/584998D6-C8A1-4220-AE88-8DA9CAF51D5E.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/423489F8-274A-4379-9952-97E56F4A06F4.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/423489F8-274A-4379-9952-97E56F4A06F4.jpg.html)

Once it's all welded up I'll make a bracket to the transmission, but this it. There's a lot of welds in there, so I'm going to wait until it's been properly heat cycled a few times before wrapping it just in case there a crack somewhere. It's definitely more restrictive than my first design, however as far as heat management goes it should keep the heat away from the intake and fuel lines. Also the cat wouldn't have lasted long in the other location with all the heat the rotary generates. Now the cat is almost 3' downstream. As an added bonus, the two 180* bends should quiet it down a bit, which was always going to be a problem.

Next up is hacking up my drivers side sail to clear my 305's. I'm still far from ready to do bodywork, but I want a rough fitment of where my side sail will be so I can mount my intercooler and get started on plumbing my IC piping.

longislandwrx

10-10-2016, 05:42 AM

brap brap.

Frank818

10-10-2016, 06:25 PM

Wow, you've got nothing behind that shock tower brace! Empty space, not even air! :)
I admit it's a pretty unusual exhaust setup but you've got to be creative, it's not an H4.

Canadian818

10-10-2016, 08:22 PM

Wow, you've got nothing behind that shock tower brace! Empty space, not even air! :)
I admit it's a pretty unusual exhaust setup but you've got to be creative, it's not an H4.

I can see someone thinking it looks odd, however I have plans for that "empty space" so the packaging might make more sense later.

Canadian818

10-11-2016, 04:18 PM

To those running oil coolers up front, like Chad or Wayne, is there any reason I shouldn't mount my inline thermostat up front?

Wayne Presley

10-11-2016, 08:05 PM

I used a Mishmoto block mounted sandwich plate with a thermostat built in.

Scargo

10-12-2016, 07:04 AM

I used a Mishimoto block mounted sandwich plate with a thermostat built in. Wayne,
Is it this one?
59596
I just saw this, for the BRZ, which would space the fittings farther away from the timing covers.
59597
My Canton setup:
59598596005959959601
The Canton sits taller than any other products I know of, hence it allows fittings to hug the timing cover and be routed up the front, away from the exhaust.
I was just helping a friend build a motor and he has a two-way sandwich plate (that retains the filter mounting position). Two-way in that fittings can be on the side or on the top (as shown). I realized he could not run his oil lines like I do. He ran his fittings and hoses off the top, as shown. Either way you have to go over the exhaust at some point to get to a place for the oil cooler, etc. This spring he had one of his wrapped hoses burst, spin him out and cause an oil fire. His setup is like this:
59602
Now I see that it is possible to buy a spacer and use the Mishimoto part you are suggesting, with the internal thermostat. This spacer may not be available separately as it is part of a Mishimoto kit (http://www.mishimoto.co.uk/subaru-wrx-oil-cooler-kit.html).
59603
However, the spacing of the Canton unit is near perfect in that fittings barely clear the covers and stay as far away from the headers as possible. Further spacing would move the hoses closer to the exhaust. The Canton part I use does not have an internal thermostatic bypass valve and they do not offer one with an internal thermostatic bypass valve!
Mocal makes a bunch of adapters with internal thermostats (http://97.74.32.155/files/sp1t.pdf), that I'm guessing you sell, but I don't know if they stand any taller.

Wayne Presley

10-12-2016, 07:31 AM

Wayne,
Is it this one?
59596

Yes it is

Hindsight

10-12-2016, 08:47 AM

Adam, here is my setup. The fittings easily clear the timing belt cover and the fittings aren't at-all close to the exhaust manifold heat shield. I'm using the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate with a BRZ spacer.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15217-Hindsight-s-build-thread&p=198495&viewfull=1#post198495
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15217-Hindsight-s-build-thread&p=201822&viewfull=1#post201822

Frank818

10-12-2016, 10:35 AM

Adam at what degree your switch will open? Or what are you aiming for.
On my VW I open it at 80C, a little on the cold side, I believe, but temps always stayed between 90-100 on hot days when not pushing it for too long. I expect these values to change (but not the 80C) with the 818 due to the very very different cooler mount location.

mikeb75

10-12-2016, 01:46 PM

Question about your cat positioning: is it too far from the exit of the turbo? Are you going to wrap the long straight pipe? I'm pretty sure the exhaust temp needs to be pretty high through the cat to get it to work correctly.

Those curves are awesome, very nice job there!

Canadian818

10-12-2016, 02:05 PM

Thanks for sharing your setups guys, but I'm using a remote thermostat. If I mount it up front then I'd be adding the 12-15ft loop of -10 to my "cold" flow. I can't see that making much difference, and it's one less thing to cram in on the left side of the engine.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/4459CE29-5AC0-4C94-8348-662B8E63F0D3.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/4459CE29-5AC0-4C94-8348-662B8E63F0D3.jpg.html)

Adam at what degree your switch will open? Or what are you aiming for.
On my VW I open it at 80C, a little on the cold side, I believe, but temps always stayed between 90-100 on hot days when not pushing it for too long. I expect these values to change (but not the 80C) with the 818 due to the very very different cooler mount location.

The thermostat will open between 180*-190*F (80*-88*C).

Question about your cat positioning: is it too far from the exit of the turbo? Are you going to wrap the long straight pipe? I'm pretty sure the exhaust temp needs to be pretty high through the cat to get it to work correctly.

The exhaust temps are a lot higher on rotaries, so I was a little worried it wouldn't last with my initial design. This also allows me to put the wideband 18" after the turbo instead of 10", which should save me a few of those. The entire exhaust will be wrapped, except maybe the muffler, so the cat should be plenty warm.

Those curves are awesome, very nice job there!

Thanks, I'd be worried about flow, but the tight 180's work for the Porsche guys...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/D1BEE0A5-12DF-435A-933D-9F7E5A17282F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/D1BEE0A5-12DF-435A-933D-9F7E5A17282F.jpg.html)

Hindsight

10-12-2016, 02:49 PM

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/D1BEE0A5-12DF-435A-933D-9F7E5A17282F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/D1BEE0A5-12DF-435A-933D-9F7E5A17282F.jpg.html)

Damn! That rotary really transforms the look of the back of the 818!

mikeb75

10-12-2016, 03:29 PM

A note about your thermostat (if it's a Perma-Cool like mine), it doesn't totally close under 180*F, it's just mostly closed.

...The valve is open when cold, to allow oil/fluid in the cooler circuit to be pre-warmed or to avoid air pockets. When the valve is closed, it has a slight relief to make up for restrictions elsewhere in the system...

Canadian818

10-14-2016, 02:47 PM

A note about your thermostat (if it's a Perma-Cool like mine), it doesn't totally close under 180*F, it's just mostly closed.

It is the Perma-Cool, and yeah I noticed that too. But since the rotary relies on oil for 50% of its cooling, I'm not worried that it'll be a problem. It will probably be open most of the time.

Finished mocking up my intercooler plumbing. It's tight everywhere, but not so much that I'm concerned. If the engine moves more then expected, I'll have to support the tubes in the middle somewhere.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CC522DB1-6649-4475-B695-A6B88CE95867.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/CC522DB1-6649-4475-B695-A6B88CE95867.jpg.html)

So now I have A LOT of welding to do, between the intercooler brackets, piping, and exhaust, I have my work cut out for me. The only thing left to fab before startup is the oil cooler mounts, and all my oil lines. My goal is startup before heading to Austin, Texas for the race next week. If the weather warms up like it's supposed to be, I might even get to drive it! But first, this all needs to melt....

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/D50F8CDF-FD84-4BF7-BA02-28DA5013DBBA.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/D50F8CDF-FD84-4BF7-BA02-28DA5013DBBA.jpg.html)

Frank818

10-14-2016, 06:40 PM

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/D50F8CDF-FD84-4BF7-BA02-28DA5013DBBA.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/D50F8CDF-FD84-4BF7-BA02-28DA5013DBBA.jpg.html)

Excuse my words but that looks like a big white poop in the middle, there.

Canadian818

10-14-2016, 07:04 PM

Excuse my words but that looks like a big white poop in the middle, there.

Haha, it used to be a snow man.

Hindsight

10-14-2016, 09:27 PM

Wow, I can't even imagine having that much snow this early in the year! Well, nothing better than garage time when the weather is bad!

I apologize if you mentioned this previously and I missed it, but are you planning on building a shroud for the intercooler that will completely seal it up to the side sail so 100% of the air and pressure that comes in through the side scoop will be forced through the intercooler and if so, what material do you plan on using? I am planning on doing that for my oil cooler and have not decided on material but am thinking aluminum with bulb seal. I will use a contour gauge tool to get the curves and angles right for a perfect seal. Going to be a lot of work though....

Canadian818

10-14-2016, 10:26 PM

Wow, I can't even imagine having that much snow this early in the year!

Yeah me either, it's depressing. Especially when I'm still hopeful to go kart. It's fairly common to get a cold blast for a week in October, and then warm up a little.

I apologize if you mentioned this previously and I missed it, but are you planning on building a shroud for the intercooler that will completely seal it up to the side sail so 100% of the air and pressure that comes in through the side scoop will be forced through the intercooler and if so, what material do you plan on using? I am planning on doing that for my oil cooler and have not decided on material but am thinking aluminum with bulb seal. I will use a contour gauge tool to get the curves and angles right for a perfect seal. Going to be a lot of work though....

Aluminum and bulb seal is my plan as well. I usually make the shapes/contours/bends with cardboard and tape first so I don't have to keep trimming the aluminum. I watch a lot of Netflix in the garage, so that's also a quieter method. Hopefully Kurk doesn't give up on a carbon fibre version of his scoops, which will be crucial in forcing air through my intercooler. I really hope to prove I can keep my intake temps down on track with this setup. For the weight obsessed in our group, the intercooler weights 20lbs, all piping, silicone, and clamps add another 4lbs. That's 28lbs lighter than an A2W cooler setup including water.

carrera1984

10-14-2016, 11:09 PM

Lumpyguy

10-15-2016, 04:58 AM

I can't wait to come to Edmonton tomorrow to That snow. What dates are you gone out of town? Oh I will take an XL gas monkey t shirt as well ;)

Hindsight

10-15-2016, 11:33 AM

Awesome keep us posted. If I do my ducting before you, I will be sure to share pics.

Canadian818

10-15-2016, 11:57 AM

Pretty sick welding skills. I can't believe you have the patients for that. I've just started tig welding. Became a grand master in tungsten grinding on the exhaust I just finished. I'm a pretty experienced Arc and mig hobby welder so I was able to pick up the torch, but it was interesting. lol. Started with the thumb switch and moved to the pedal. Pedal and back purge was key.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks! I've been working as a welder for just over 10 years, and usually dread having to do it at home. I always enjoy fitting and tacking, but hours of welding gets old quick. I haven't worked much since spring, which is probably why I was willing to do it this way. I mostly just stick weld outside, that's where the money is, but once upon a time I used to mig and tig stainless and aluminum lots. I know very experienced welders that still go through a lot of tungsten, so don't beat yourself up about it. I always break mine in half and sharpen both ends, that way I need to stop to sharpen less often. A good hand control is very helpful in awkward positions, but the pedal is always the preferred method.

I can't wait to come to Edmonton tomorrow to That snow. What dates are you gone out of town? Oh I will take an XL gas monkey t shirt as well ;)

I head to Texas on Thursday, how long are you in town? Apparently this much snow this early broke a 60 year old record. 8*c next week will melt it all though.

Awesome keep us posted. If I do my ducting before you, I will be sure to share pics.

Sometimes I think I post too much, lol, so I'm sure I will.

Canadian818

10-16-2016, 08:04 PM

I finished up my plug wires last night, and figured I'd show this little section now that it's done.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/0024B2A0-D11D-4C6C-B542-28B2DECBFE6F.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/0024B2A0-D11D-4C6C-B542-28B2DECBFE6F.jpg.html)

The plug wires had to be tucked in tight so they don't interfere with the intake tube. Right in front of the coils on the same bracket is the fuse and relay for the coils. On the firewall ahead of the coils is the master 70amp fuse, and next to that is the fuel pump relay and fuse. Both the pump and coils get power directly from the battery, everything else is ran through the 70amp, besides the starter which is direct to the battery.

And here is a peak at another challenge I face between now and spring....

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/D245145D-6B59-44B7-B8F7-65FD3BCECC77.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/D245145D-6B59-44B7-B8F7-65FD3BCECC77.jpg.html)

Hindsight

10-16-2016, 08:37 PM

Frank818

10-17-2016, 06:57 AM

Or you could leave them as is, gives a different look! :P Last w-e I've seen a super highly lowered Jetta with tires sticking out on very low offset BBS wheels. Better have a bump stop 1in higher, otherwise byebye either fenders or tires.

Canadian818

10-17-2016, 10:23 AM

Oh boy, so you are gong to tackle custom fender flares too eh? I think so far, no one has really completed it though Tamra and Andrew seem furthest along. If someone made a sender of fiberglass flares that bolted on with a gasket, they could probably sell quite a few of them.

I'm going about it a little differently than they are in the back, I'll be pushing the whole rear section of the sail out rather than just a flare. Not sure what I'm doing up front. If I can find a flare that works I might go that way, or I could widen the bumper and hood a couple of inches. That would make my splitter useless though.

Or you could leave them as is, gives a different look! :P Last w-e I've seen a super highly lowered Jetta with tires sticking out on very low offset BBS wheels. Better have a bump stop 1in higher, otherwise byebye either fenders or tires.

Ummmmm NO! lol

Hindsight

10-17-2016, 06:40 PM

Not a bad idea to widen the whole thing!

Frank818

10-18-2016, 06:16 AM

I'm going about it a little differently than they are in the back, I'll be pushing the whole rear section of the sail out rather than just a flare.

Do you mean by cutting , moving and re-fiberglassing the sail portion on?
Or do you just mean stretching out the sail's portion by hand without cracking/cutting anytihng and without doing any fiberglass?
The latter will not cover your wide ***, trust me.

Canadian818

10-18-2016, 09:10 AM

Do you mean by cutting , moving and re-fiberglassing the sail portion on?
Or do you just mean stretching out the sail's portion by hand without cracking/cutting anytihng and without doing any fiberglass?
The latter will not cover your wide ***, trust me.

Oh there will be lots of cutting and glassing in my future Frank.

Canadian818

10-19-2016, 03:21 PM

So you want to run 25" tires up front? Here's the frame mods I had to do...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/49DEF132-6A13-4F91-915D-551B795A9103.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/49DEF132-6A13-4F91-915D-551B795A9103.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/9B3DEBA5-F46C-4AB8-B8D3-CCA726BC280A.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/9B3DEBA5-F46C-4AB8-B8D3-CCA726BC280A.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/B662317F-575C-407A-BAAC-97FFCB05507D.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/B662317F-575C-407A-BAAC-97FFCB05507D.jpg.html)

I will also have to modify the wheel well aluminum and leading edge of the side sail.

Frank818

10-19-2016, 06:05 PM

So you want to run 25" tires up front?

No I don't, but that's a nice mod you did there. Nice curve on the flat plate you welded back on. Nice job.
How much clearance are you left with between the frame and tire?

You will trim the side sail the same?

Canadian818

10-22-2016, 10:13 AM

No I don't, but that's a nice mod you did there. Nice curve on the flat plate you welded back on. Nice job.
How much clearance are you left with between the frame and tire?

You will trim the side sail the same?

Not sure how I'm trimming the side pod yet, might just move it all back as it is. I'll take a pic of the clearance with the tires on when I get back from Austin. Here's my view of turn 1.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F3DC7F74-E81B-46FD-B35D-276F83AA9691.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F3DC7F74-E81B-46FD-B35D-276F83AA9691.jpg.html)

Scargo

10-22-2016, 10:17 AM

Lucky guy! I was born very close to there. Was on my bucket list to drive on it.

Lumpyguy

10-22-2016, 10:22 AM

I got a chance to stop by and see this ride and I must say it's pretty sweet and I have to give him props! Nice to see things outside the box.

Frank818

10-22-2016, 05:23 PM

Austin. Here's my view of turn 1.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F3DC7F74-E81B-46FD-B35D-276F83AA9691.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F3DC7F74-E81B-46FD-B35D-276F83AA9691.jpg.html)

Lucky B!!! Again! lolll
Check out that blue sky!!

Don't forget to upload your youtube videos of the race.

longislandwrx

10-27-2016, 03:09 PM

So you want to run 25" tires up front?

uh nope. I guess i'll be ordering 215/40/r18s instead of 225s :/

Scargo

10-27-2016, 04:33 PM

Why not run wide 17's up front?

Canadian818

10-27-2016, 05:06 PM

Why not run wide 17's up front?

I hate how small the 24" wheel/tire looks in the wheel well, so I went bigger. I had to go out more as well to achieve enough clearance.

Frank818

10-27-2016, 05:56 PM

I hate how small the 24" wheel/tire looks in the wheel well, so I went bigger. I had to go out more as well to achieve enough clearance.

You must love F1 tires then (26") :)

Canadian818

10-29-2016, 01:22 AM

You must love F1 tires then (26") :)

I love everything about F1. I'm liking our chances in Mexico!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/A7F74192-0F61-4920-890E-8CA72854ADA4.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/A7F74192-0F61-4920-890E-8CA72854ADA4.jpg.html)

Oil coolers plumbed and installed. Getting really close now!

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/380DF32A-F7A7-418B-BD4B-F259F35D0278.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/380DF32A-F7A7-418B-BD4B-F259F35D0278.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/4D13625D-44F7-44AE-9BF9-296D1F46A176.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/4D13625D-44F7-44AE-9BF9-296D1F46A176.jpg.html)

Frank818

10-29-2016, 06:14 PM

Canadian818

10-29-2016, 08:05 PM

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...... hard to see on the pic but are those coolers totally parallel with the tires? Or perpendicular, depends how you look at it.

What I mean is that they should be at an angle that is not 0 nor 90. Unless the back side of the coolers will be totally blocked from the wind and pressure pushed off of the wheels.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/F8C19599-D350-4B42-BC51-642F8DB81EA0.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/F8C19599-D350-4B42-BC51-642F8DB81EA0.jpg.html)

They're tucked in, mostly out of the path of the wheel. There's a splash guard for behind it, which will have a cutout and some mesh. The idea is to vent around the wheel and out behind it at the door.

Frank818

10-30-2016, 12:02 PM

Canadian818

10-30-2016, 01:30 PM

I see better now! Good boy you thought of that.
Did you also think that where your hoses are bending towards the cooler and the small cooler support lips or brackets on the left on the pic is exactly where an alu panel from FFR fits? In other words, you'll need to cut a huge hole to let the cooler and hoses through the alu panel.

Do you mean the splash guard that goes behind the cooler?

On another note, today could possibly end with a startup video. I've already been cranking it to build oil pressure, no luck yet. I don't expect the starter to build much pressure, I just want the needle to move. I'm waiting for the wife to come home so I can get more oil, so far it's taken 6.5 quarts! The good news is oil is flowing, so I know the pump works. But it was challenging to get much of any oil in my oil lines prior to install, and I have around 30' of -10. The oil coolers themselves took almost a quart each. I also don't want to dry crank it anymore without squirting some oil in the plug holes on the rotors.

Once I have oil pressure, I'll fill the tank, prime the fuel system, and check for leaks. Then I have some laptop work on the ecu to do before trying to fire it. Pretty pumped!!!

Here's where I mounted the ecu and fuse block. There's some aem related fuses opposite the painless block.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/939E668E-75AB-42D0-AC79-31C39CAF99BC.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/939E668E-75AB-42D0-AC79-31C39CAF99BC.jpg.html)

Frank818

10-30-2016, 06:19 PM

No I mean the radiator side alu panels, they're in the way of both your hoses and cooler cores.

longislandwrx

10-31-2016, 06:06 AM

No I mean the radiator side alu panels, they're in the way of both your hoses and cooler cores.

i'm guessing he can just sheer a 1.5" section out of the middle and fit it with no issues.

Frank818

10-31-2016, 06:24 AM

Yeah I'm guessing that too, it's just that he'll need to block off the hole if he doesn't want the air to go through the panel instead of through the rad, it's not hard, just that something to keep in mind and I was wondering if he did.

Canadian818

10-31-2016, 10:46 AM

Are you guys talking about this panel?

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/E9A988AE-D39A-4AE4-919D-255175A877AB.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/E9A988AE-D39A-4AE4-919D-255175A877AB.jpg.html)

Frank818

10-31-2016, 11:33 AM

I don't see well on the pic but it's look to be that panel yes, did you bend it on the fwd section?

Canadian818

10-31-2016, 11:48 AM

I don't see well on the pic but it's look to be that panel yes, did you bend it on the fwd section?

I didn't bend anything, just cut out for the lines. I'll take a better pic of it when I pull it outside later. Didn't get much time on it after yesterday, but I'm close today. It does run, more easily than expected actually. I primed the fuel system looking for leaks and noticed a oil leak on the turbo drain. So I pulled the fuse for the pump and gave it a quick crank to verify the source of the leak, it fired instantly with the fuel in the line. I immediately shut it down because I'm still in the garage and want to do my first start outside. But it sounds AMAZING!

Canadian818

10-31-2016, 04:52 PM

https://youtu.be/HPGe-GYjnVw

mikeb75

10-31-2016, 05:07 PM

Whoo! Thumbs up!

Wayne Presley

10-31-2016, 05:27 PM

Congrats!!

Frank818

10-31-2016, 06:25 PM

You made it!! 70h/week of non-818 work but you still managed! Awesome!
Need some tune eh. :)

Canadian818

10-31-2016, 06:29 PM

Thanks guys. It was a little bittersweet, as I have a few things to figure out before continuing. It's backfiring a little, and my oil pressure is quite high. After about 20 secs the poping gets more intense and I'm afraid to continue. I was hoping to get it up to tempature to see if the oil pressure settled down, but I'm afraid to let it keep idling. I say idling, but it was actually about 2500rpm. I believe that's a normal high idle for rotaries. Everything about tuning is new to me, so I have A LOT to learn.

Also, the last time I turned off the key it didn't shut off which scared the crap out of me. I panicked and pulled the spark plug wires. I believe it's the way I have the alternator wired. I'm going to do a bunch of reading, and maybe start posting on more specific forums for rotaries and the aem ecu. However I welcome any and all feedback, as I'm now in over my head.

Hindsight

10-31-2016, 06:35 PM

Wow huge congrats! The first 818 rotary start!!

Post up a diagram of how you wired the alternator and your ECU and ignition key and I may be able to help with the issue of it not shutting off with the key. Alternator and battery wiring is very important. You need the battery and alternator wired together and fused in such a way that if anything happens, the battery acts as a voltage buffer in case of alternator spikes etc.

Do you have a tuner you can take the car to? I tried tuning mine myself, and I know a *fair* amount about engine management, but there were just too many variables on a turbo car and strange things happening. Took it to a tuner and he had it sorted in no time.

bbjones121

10-31-2016, 06:41 PM

Congrats!

DSR-3

10-31-2016, 07:16 PM

Great to see and hear your success - Congratulations!

Canadian818

10-31-2016, 09:30 PM

Thanks everyone!

Wow huge congrats! The first 818 rotary start!!

Post up a diagram of how you wired the alternator and your ECU and ignition key and I may be able to help with the issue of it not shutting off with the key. Alternator and battery wiring is very important. You need the battery and alternator wired together and fused in such a way that if anything happens, the battery acts as a voltage buffer in case of alternator spikes etc.

Do you have a tuner you can take the car to? I tried tuning mine myself, and I know a *fair* amount about engine management, but there were just too many variables on a turbo car and strange things happening. Took it to a tuner and he had it sorted in no time.

I'll draw it up tomorrow. If I recall correctly there's just one wire coming off the alternator (besides the two for a light) and it goes to the harness side of the 70amp maxi fuse I have between everything and the battery. What I'm unsure of is what's in place for an ignition relay. I might actually have two, one on the painless fuse block and one built into the aem harness.

There's no "professional" tuners here, but my good buddy has tuned quite a few fuel injected V8's and he's going to help me through it. He has already assigned me some things to check. I probably have something hooked up wrong, as the base tune should've been good for idle.

turbomacncheese

10-31-2016, 10:27 PM

Sweet. I'm really glad to see options in these cars (even I don't intend to use one)

STiPWRD

11-01-2016, 07:52 AM

Congrats on getting the motor running! Are you planning on installing a battery kill switch? I have one between the battery and main fuse box.

Canadian818

11-01-2016, 09:46 AM

Congrats on getting the motor running! Are you planning on installing a battery kill switch? I have one between the battery and main fuse box.

Eventually, as I'm sure it'll be required at the track. However I'm not sure I want to wait after yesterday's "run on"

Canadian818

11-01-2016, 10:32 AM

So here's how things are wired up.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/368C1B6F-C83C-42FB-818A-DF3F7329D290.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pope83/media/368C1B6F-C83C-42FB-818A-DF3F7329D290.jpg.html)

Both the fuse block and ECU get consistent power and ignition power.

Canadian818

11-01-2016, 04:42 PM

Did a little more digging, all the power coming from the alternator is fused, so I think I'm protected. I just can't figure out how the ecu stayed on after the ignition switch was turned off. Each time before and since, it's worked fine. Turn the key off, ecu powers off. The ecu does have constant power, but shouldn't be able to run without ignition power. Both the fuel pump and coils get power directly from the battery through a fuse and relay, but require a signal from the ecu to the relay.

I'm unsure of where to put the kill switch. If I put it between everything and the battery, could the alternator still power the system? Does it need to be between the battery/alternator and everything else?

Toysrus

11-02-2016, 06:18 AM

http://www.teamhealeytexas.com/Technical%20Articles/Alternator%20Wiring%201.htm

Toysrus

11-02-2016, 06:32 AM

Oh I see it now you're aem ignition power is also hooked up before the switch move it after. That wire shouldn't have power with key off. Should be 2 or 3 outputs on ignition start power to starter. Key on power (this is the one you want). And possibly accessory power which is on in either acc position or on position I believe check for yourself.

See later post

Toysrus

11-02-2016, 07:03 AM

Now I'm confused is 916 the ignition switched power out or the main power in from the battery for the ignition?
If 916 red is the ignition switched power out then it shouldn't connect to the battery.

If it's the input then it shouldn't connect to anything else before it passes to the ignition. Take your power from the key on output or use that output to power a relay and take power from the relay.

See next post

Toysrus

11-02-2016, 07:33 AM

http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10140.pdf

OK let's start over. I believe this is what your referencing.

Looks like your hooked up right. Main thing to check . Does the ignition power input wire to the aem have power with key off.

Toysrus

11-02-2016, 08:14 AM

Also can a rotor motor create an electrical field? Add motor to chassis to battery grounds , grounded shields for important wires.

Also do you still have a bunch of unconnected wires laying in a pile? Some may have power...

STiPWRD

11-02-2016, 08:14 AM

I'm unsure of where to put the kill switch. If I put it between everything and the battery, could the alternator still power the system? Does it need to be between the battery/alternator and everything else?
I hooked mine up between the battery and everything. The only other thing hooked up directly to the battery (and bypasses kill switch) is the low gauge wire to the starter.

Canadian818

11-02-2016, 09:36 AM

Thanks for the input guys, I always appreciate feedback. I couldn't pull the car outside yesterday to fiddle with more as it was snowing and -1c. I'm just waiting for daylight now before I start pissing off the neighbors. I spent some time yesterday reading and watching videos on the Infinity ecu and found about half a dozen reasons why it was running bad. My daughter said it sounded like a minion with a fart gun, lol. I also think I know why it didn't turn off. I was attempting to log how bad it was running, but I was afraid to keep it running long enough to save a log. As soon as you turn off the ignition switch the ecu shuts down. So I had turned on a feature called "key off commit", which saves all data before powering off when the key is turned off. It only occurred to me last night that it probably delays shut down while saving, which is why I thought it was a "run on" situation. I didn't let it run more than 5 secs before yanking plug wires. It must use the permanent power to keep the ecu on. The discription for this option also scared me away from a kill switch because if the permanent power is cut while saving after key off, the ecu may have to go back to aem to be fixed. But after yesterday's research, turns out most people don't use that option anyway. More updates later on my theories, and maybe a longer video, lol

Frank818

11-02-2016, 09:51 AM

OMG what a bad bad bad feature!! When you swich the key off it's cuz you want the engine to shut down now, not later at an unknown moment. Think of any emergency situation for which you need to shut down the engine right now.

It's fine to have a feature to keep the ECU on while saving, but it should never keep the engine running (besides that messes with the log cuz the log continues to grow while the engine runs).

They should fix that feature right away.

Also if cutting power while saving a file bricks the ECU, that's also a very bad design. Bricking an ECU should not be possible in cases where you are not updating its firmware. Then yes, but saving a file outside the code/firmware should not brick the ECU. Mine saves on disk (laptop, tablet, etc.), no problem if I cut power while saving. Although I control the power to ECU independent from the IGN and "I" control it, not the wiring.

Canadian818

11-02-2016, 10:11 AM

Frank818

11-02-2016, 10:31 AM

Yeah plz make sure you test it once idling works. Don't **** it the ECU, though. lolll

Normally ACC stays on when you crank, I think there are a couple of OEM cars that switch on the headlights or something while cranking, but normally ACC stays on, as well as IGN. It's possible aftermarket ECUs have the option to switch it off, though.

Canadian818

11-02-2016, 01:21 PM

Good news is that the car starts and shuts down with the key, I've done it about 10 times today. Another good thing is I know my idle problems are related to my DBW system. My inability to fix my DBW problems however is due to the fact that my alternator isn't charging the battery. In fact voltage dropped at the battery when I started it. Pretty sure I have the alternator wired up wrong.

Frank818

11-02-2016, 06:20 PM

Phew, that was close again, man you really know what to do to stress me out. lollll

What would the DBW have to do with the alternator? What's your voltage when the car runs? Between 13 and 15?
If the alt isn't charging the batt, where is its electricity going to?

It's normal to have the volt drop at crank, it will drop under 11v, cuz it pulls out a lot of juice from the batt.

Canadian818

11-02-2016, 06:38 PM

Here's my list of problems.

1.Alternator isn't charging, no voltage increase when engine is running.

The AEM tech said that when the DBW setup is done, it needs to be done at whatever voltage the battery sees when running. He suggested to just have a charger hooked to the battery to simulate this, which allowed me to keep it at 13.6v

2. Pedal and TB work perfectly in the setup wizard, however at the end when I "commit" the changes it doesn't work. At all times, engine running or not, throttle position is at 20.9%. Thus why it wants to idle at 3000rpm

3. Map reading is stuck at 90kpa. New AEM 3.5bar sensor, properly setup and wired afaik.

4. Coolant leaking past my rad cap at the engine. This will be better sorted once I can maintain a reasonable idle.

AEM was supposed to get back to me, but no word yet. I suspect my grounding could be causing an issue, so I'm going to work on seperating a lot of them. I have two bolts on the engine that everything is grounded to. After some reading I think I made a mistake here. Coils are grounded to their respective rotor housings, and everything else is grounded to the same bolts, injectors, sensors, tb, and "sensor grounds" from the ecu. I'm going to separate everything and see if perhaps something is causing "noise".

Toysrus

11-02-2016, 06:41 PM

Canadian818

11-03-2016, 12:53 AM

I believe acc power is on in any position but off. Easy test put a multimeter on it. The ignition switch is generally a mechanical relay so each position turns on certain things. Only possible exception to this would be if a ecu had control of or a internal relay that it could open to cut power.

I was thinking about this and realized that if I switched it to the ACC position, that would just become the new ON position. The car would keep running until I turned it to off. It's no longer an issue now that I've resolved the "run on" problem. Hopefully I can figure out the throttle and map problems tomorrow without having to replace parts. Once it's idling normal I can figure out the alternator and coolant issues.

Toysrus

11-03-2016, 05:51 AM

http://www.teamhealeytexas.com/Technical%20Articles/Alternator%20Wiring%201.htm

Disconnect the ignition switched power on the alternator check that it has no power key off , and power key on. The battery wire should be hot all the time.
You have it hooked up as a auto sensing 1 wire which should be ok but hooking it up as a 3 wire is simple and would bypass the alternators sensing circuit making it work sooner. Atleast this should eliminate the alternator as the problem and it's east to change or change back as all you need is a small jumper to #2 and move ignition power to #1.
When your are testing the power use the case of the alternator as your ground, if no power, ground your alternator case.

Toysrus

11-03-2016, 06:00 AM

Describe the coolant issue a bit more. Is the cap leaking or is coolant being forced into the overflow tank? It could be a compression leak from the combustion or exhaust into the coolant.

longislandwrx

11-03-2016, 06:29 AM

are you using stock rx7 alternator? do you have the L wire hooked up the the gauge cluster and the S to positive?

Canadian818

11-03-2016, 08:54 AM

Describe the coolant issue a bit more. Is the cap leaking or is coolant being forced into the overflow tank? It could be a compression leak from the combustion or exhaust into the coolant.

It's not pushing into the the overflow. It could very well be an o-ring leak, however I did a pressure test on the cooling system with the exhaust manifold off and didn't hear anything. And I used the air lift kit to fill it and it held a good vacuum. I ran it once with the cap off, when running the coolant was sucked down the neck, and when I shut it off it shot out over the top. It'll be easier to diagnose once I can idle normally.

are you using stock rx7 alternator? do you have the L wire hooked up the the gauge cluster and the S to positive?

Stock FD alternator, L is left unhooked, s is to positive.

longislandwrx

11-03-2016, 10:30 AM

with no reference off the cluster, I don't think it will charge the system. maybe an EE can chime in.

Canadian818

11-03-2016, 11:04 AM

with no reference off the cluster, I don't think it will charge the system. maybe an EE can chime in.

I was reading a little on that last night. Seems to be a lot of confusion about "L". Some say it's irrelevant, some say it's needed. From what I understand the light gets power elsewhere and is grounded through "L", so I will try putting power to it and see what happens. I also read that "modern" alternators need some resistance on the signal wire like a light or the internal regulator will burn out.

DrunkenSailor

11-03-2016, 01:23 PM

I’m not sure being an EE will help, but I’ll give it a go. Without going into too much electrical detail, here is how I understand the alternator should be hooked up. The “L” connection is not irrelevant, it is tied to a transistor in the voltage regulator. This transistor acts like a switch, turning on and off the charging voltage. (As an aside, the warning light is grounded through the transistor when the switch closes, turning the light on) The circuit to “L” normally runs: battery, through the ignition switch, warning light, a diode, and then to “L”.

To make a moderately long story short, when you check the voltages on the alternator, “B” to ground should read the 14.1V-14.7V at idle; “S” to ground should be the same at idle, and “L” to ground should be at 12.9V-13.5V at idle.

Just putting power on “L” from the battery may be too much voltage, I don’t know how sensitive the transistor in the regulator is, 14.1V from the Battery shouldn’t fry it, but it might.