Front LCA Torque Question

[Xusia]

I recall seeing some suggestions, but not what I'd consider a solution, so the issue of torquing the rear bolt on the front Lower Control Arm. The aluminum is in the way, preventing a socket from accessing the bolt.

Did I miss the solution?

At this point, I'm considering making an access hole in the aluminum. Feedback?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I recall seeing some suggestions, but not what I'd consider a solution, so the issue of torquing the rear bolt on the front Lower Control Arm. The aluminum is in the way, preventing a socket from accessing the bolt.

Did I miss the solution?

At this point, I'm considering making an access hole in the aluminum. Feedback?
Torque the bushing on the arm, then install the arm and bushing as an assembly.
Mount lower shock mount on arm first.
Bob

[Xusia]

So how do you know the correct angle/orientation of the arm to the bushing mount if you torque it off the car?

[freds]

The bushings should only be torqued at final ride height. Otherwise you can end up with a bushing that has the rubber "twisted-up" when you do set ride height (like a torsion bar.) This can affect handling as well as life of the bushing.

[Xusia]

That was my understanding, and hence the reason for my asking of this question: How to properly torque those bolts (i.e. on the car) when the aluminum is in place? I'm looking for a solution not just for the initial build, but that can also be used later on down the road.

[SixStar]

Only way I can see is to build the car, weight it, measure the angle relative to the ground and bolt the arm to a bench, set the angle of the bushing and TQ away.

[Xusia]

OK. So I'll be adding that hole then! LOL

[freds]

Only way I can see is to build the car, weight it, measure the angle relative to the ground and bolt the arm to a bench, set the angle of the bushing and TQ away.

Or you could buy an (expensive) open end torque wrench and be able to get to that LCA rear bushing nut.

I considered cutting a hole in the aluminum firewall, but discarded the idea as I don't like torquing to that high a spec with an extension on my usual (cheap) socket type torque wrench.
My solution was to install the firewall after I set the ride height.
You dont need to know the weight just set the chassis at 4.5 inches ride height with the wheels on the car (by adjusting the spring preloads) Then as you load up the weight by adding more parts you just keep adjusting the spring preloads to maintain ride height.

This method cannot be used with normal struts which have no spring load adjustment.

[Racebrewer]

Hi,

Crowfoot adapter for the torque wrench?

Freds, I don't think that an extension should throw the torque wrench setting off. All the torque should be transmitted even if the extension twists a bit in the process. Might need a beefier torque wrench for the high torque spec. I have one that goes up to 250 foot lbs that doesn't get used much.

John

[freds]

[QUOTE=Racebrewer;130933]Hi,

Crowfoot adapter for the torque wrench?

Freds, I don't think that an extension should throw the torque wrench setting off. All the torque should be transmitted even if the extension twists a bit in the process. Might need a beefier torque wrench for the high torque spec. I have one that goes up to 250 foot lbs that doesn't get used much.



Thanks John, I was only trying to outline the options to others, so they can decide decide what they are going to do.

And to point out that you can set ride height at any time because the 818 has adjustable spring pre-load.

I did mine months ago by installing the firewall after I had torqued them.


fred

[Xusia]

I like the crow foot adapter idea. Does that throw off the torque wrench at all though?

[RM1SepEx]

I like the crow foot adapter idea. Does that throw off the torque wrench at all though?

yes, you use a correction factor