nkw8181's 818 build thread

[nkw8181]

Well I finally got a donor car!! whooo hoo. I ended up with an 06 wrx with 121k miles. Me and my roommate spent a few hours tonight taking stuff off. The crunch zone is being a real PITA. can't get the radiator free. well that will be the objective tomorrow. Here are some pics.

[nkw8181]

more pics

[wallace18]

I would use a sawsall to cut the front end off if it was me. Nice looking donor.

[Mechie3]

That car looks completely stock. I had similar damaged and had to sawzall the front off. The radiated gets pinched pretty tightly.

[AZPete]

Congrats! The fun begins.
PM sent - check the Notifications box at the top.

[Xusia]

Very nice looking donor. You should be able to sell off some parts for a nice return on investment!

[nkw8181]

Thanks guys. We got the radiator off! May still cut the front off to get the engine out. I'll put up pics tomorrow.

[Xusia]

Cut the front. SO much easier!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here is a picture I took when removing the engine from my forester xt donor.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24377&d=1387519572

[Racebrewer]

There should be a place in Heaven for the guy who invented the Sawz-All..................

[nkw8181]

Nice! I'm going out to the garage in a few to see where to cut using yours as a guide

[metalmaker12]

Just cut it playa, yank that mule, don't mind me had plenty of spiked nog.

[nkw8181]

Wooooo Hoooo. Progress finally!! I can see that the damage didn't appear to do more then hurt the case. I'm rebuilding the motor so this isn't a big deal.

[wallace18]

Looks like you may have avoided disaster. Hope all goes well for your build.

[nkw8181]

Thanks! I had a side project to take care of. I put up some ceiling storage that can be raised and lowered using a drill or by hand.

[nkw8181]

Ok I'm slowly making progress. Put up another 2 ceiling storage systems. Here is a link to this system if you're interested.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_432583-2191-PHL-1R_0__?productId=4324011&Ntt=ceiling+storage&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dceiling%2Bstorage&facetInfo=

Home depot had it cheaper at the time and Lowes matches then takes off 10% !!


See SOME of us only have a 2 car garage so this is going to help me with a place to put stuff. I'd love to have Mechie3's setup. Speaking of I need to find an engineering job with your perks! OK So we got a cold front as well but from what I hear it is nothing compared to what y'all are getting up north So maybe I can make some real progress today.

[nkw8181]

Well no progress yesterday or today. That is what happens when you are sick

[nkw8181]

Oh I forgot to add that my build date got moved up! Now my build date is 4/26/2014!!! Now I have work to do!

[nkw8181]

Here is the progress made this weekend. Got the interior stripped including ALL the wiring! Next is finally getting the motor and rear end out. I took a bit longer because I tried to keep a lot more things then normal. I want to try and use the A/C, ABS and several of the sensors/ motors . My intent is to get everything out of the shell and get rid of it. After that there will be room to work on everything else. Here are the pics.

edited to fix pics

[nkw8181]

Engine, tranny and rear-end are out. So the front lower A arms where fighting me and my roommate so we took the dash support bar and made it a breaker bar. We where laughing about it a bit then trimmed off some of the mounting brackets and it worked!! :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Engine, tranny and rear-end are out. So the front lower A arms where fighting me and my roommate so we took the dash support bar and made it a breaker bar. We where laughing about it a bit then trimmed off some of the mounting brackets and it worked!! :)

Looking good
take lots of pictures and mark your connectors and hoses.
When you get around to the wiring harness reassembly you well have forgotten where connectors went to.
The jack handle also makes a great breaker bar extension.
Remember, heat and PB blaster are your friends, when it comes to getting suspension bolts apart. Rear lateral link bolts can be tough.
Bob
25196

[nkw8181]

Paint pens have been my friend. I've been marking everything. Hmmmm the jack handle would be a bit easier to handle lol. I wish I had a pic of us using our makeshift breaker bar.

[Xusia]

Suggestion: Break (loosen) all the rear end bolt before taking them off the car.

[nkw8181]

Lol yea that prob would have helped lol. So if I'm using the Boyd tank will I still need the fuel vent canister? I stripped the car of everything with the exception of the fuel tank since I won't need it. so here are some more pics.

[nkw8181]

I found a local guy that wants the shell. Think he wants to make a Frankenstein. I have a feeling that even though I plan to use the Boyd tank I may still pull off the fuel parts if nothing more then for piece of mind.

[DodgyTim]

I think the stock build reuses the in tank pump, but the Boyd comes with its own pump
Fuel sender is reused also
I'd keep the fuel fittings tank fittings, if nothing else you could donate them to someone doing a " non donor " build

[nkw8181]

So a few updates. The car is completely stripped and the frame is gone! Whoo hoo! now I have room to start selling off stuff and I'm not sure what I'll start on next. Thinking either wiring harness or timing belt replacement and such.

[nkw8181]

I plan on starting on wiring while I'm selling off stuff. Whooo Hoooo! I plan on printing Mechie3's wiring guide out tomorrow and get to it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11880-Wiring-Guide-06-WRX-Sedan-with-Auto-AC-HVAC

Already sold

driver side headlight
glovebox
center grill
foglights
driver side finder liner

I'd really like to get the doors and trunk gone next since they are big items.

[Frank818]

Are you selling the parts on ebay?

[nkw8181]

I've been selling stuff on craigs list and NASIOC. been working on wiring.... ughh. Right now i can't decide if I want to have ABS. I posted in the brakes forum asking the trailblazers that put ABS in what they think.

[nkw8181]

I may branch out to ebay. Put stuff with no reserve and see what happens.

[metalmaker12]

I decided on no abs, and as I can see it , it was a good move. Car stops on a dime and itis even and predictable. Abs wouldn't hurt it in anyway, but power assist might be to much braking force.

[nkw8181]

At this point I'm still just stripping tape and tubing. Figured I would get that done first and figure out the rest once I get there.

[Frank818]

Nolan, are you picking up yourself or getting the kit delivered to you on April 26th?

[nkw8181]

I am still unsure of which route I will take. 27 hour drive one way is a drive plus gas isn't cheap. If I have it shipped I'll still make it out there at some point. Maybe in the 818 once there is a soft top.

Anyone thought about a small motorcycle trailer to pull behind these beauties. You know to put stuff lol.

Oh and I'm still on wiring. I think I've passed 40 hours on it. I decided to remove optional equipment but plugs where I remove them. But I doing this I trace the wire as far back as I can and then put the connector. Optional equipment is factory radio wiring, abs, hvac and a few aux power plugs. This allows me the best of both worlds. I get the weight and reduction of wiring benefits but keep the options if I chose to use any or all of them.

[Frank818]

40h! G... :( Hopefully not much left, then.

[longislandwrx]

If there were some closer tracks, I would consider bolting on a class 1 hitch to the back for pulling tires.

http://www.chuckbrazeau.com/tiretrailer.htm

[nkw8181]

I ended up with about 45 hours to get unneeded systems taken out and optional ones removed. I also removed optional systems such as hvac and abs but put connectors as far upstream as I could so I could add back if desired. This is the wiring's state until install and phase two of the trim.

[nkw8181]

now on to more fun stuff like the engine!! I will be honest, before august or so of last year I knew very little about Subaru's so it goes without saying that this motor looks a bit daunting. Once question off the top, how did everyone close off the heating hoses? I prob saw it somewhere but don't recall.

[wleehendrick]

Once question off the top, how did everyone close off the heating hoses? I prob saw it somewhere but don't recall.

It was recommended to loop them, not close them off.

Nice job on the harness... I'm getting ready to tackle mine.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

now on to more fun stuff like the engine!! I will be honest, before august or so of last year I knew very little about Subaru's so it goes without saying that this motor looks a bit daunting. Once question off the top, how did everyone close off the heating hoses? I prob saw it somewhere but don't recall.
26897

it was supplied with my kit
Bob

[wallace18]

It was recommended to loop them, not close them off.

Nice job on the harness... I'm getting ready to tackle mine.
Do not block them off. Loop the hoses in the back. The thermostat will not work properly if you block them off.

[nkw8181]

Ok looks like I need to spend some time and re-read the manual. (the updated on this time)

[metalmaker12]

Coolant has to flow freely through them, and the manual is just a guide IMO

[AZPete]

Nolan, I'm also entangled with the wiring but don't want to count the hours! I'm doing mine in the car. Plug in what I can, extend wires to reach, delete others, repeat, repeat, . . . Doing it on the floor how do you know how long to extend wires?

[Xusia]

FFR provides a looping hose.

[nkw8181]

All I did was delete stuff. Phase two comes when I put it on the car I.e extending/shorting.

OK so the past two days have been a scare. Did a compression test on the engine.

1: 85
3: 85
2: 132
4: 132

After looking I saw that the timing was off. Looks like when it got hit the passenger side cylinder cams skipped a few. I took off the timing belt and got another scare. Didn't expect cams for 2&4 to have a preloaded so when the belt came off they moved! Scared the crap out of me. Ok so for the good news. Got the timing belt back on with everything where it should be and now got

1: 135
3: 135
2: 135
4: 135

Man am I happy!

[AZPete]

Yup, Nolan, very scary compression numbers! Good work diagnosing and fixing. I don't think I would have found the problem with the timing belt.

[nkw8181]

So here is an update. Got the engine cleaned up and the front suspension dissembled man some of those parts where a pain!27306273072730827309273102731127312

[longislandwrx]

That is a mighty clean block and transmission. Good work/find

[wallace18]

Boy you got lucky with the engine! Nice looking donor stuff. Keep up the good work.

[nkw8181]

Thanks guys! So it looks like I need to buy some specialty tools to remove the axles and disassemble the hub. Replacing the bearing and I want to be cool like everyone else and paint my hubs. FYI removing the ball joints without a puller equals not fun!

[wleehendrick]

Thanks guys! So it looks like I need to buy some specialty tools to remove the axles and disassemble the hub.

An impact should take the axle nut right off. I got a hub puller from Autozone which worked to get three of the axles off. The 4th was a RPITA, and I had to put it on a press.


I want to be cool like everyone else and paint my hubs.

I didn't paint my hubs. I guess I'm not cool. :(


FYI removing the ball joints without a puller equals not fun!

Mine dropped right out... surprising considering how much difficulty I had with that axle.

[nkw8181]

Ok so all axles out but not the hubs or bearings yet. How did y'all take them out if you did or did you just pay a local shop to do it? Oh and one of the lateral link suspension nuts is stuck and now completely rounded out. That is my project tomorrow. Now to start opening all the parts I've been ordering the last few weeks. It is like Christmas!

[Xusia]

I paid a shop to do it.

[Frank818]

My mech did it while we removed everything else. But Rasmus has a nice list of how to do on his thread. Or was it how to INSTALL bearings back in?

I think if you heat the spindle the bearings will get out easier. But I don't know what tools you got.

[nkw8181]

As far as tools go I don't have enough. Well I think that is what everyone would say lol

[nkw8181]

Ok so here is an update. I've got quiet a bit done just haven't been on the computer to upload pics. Got the new water pump, 12mm oil pump, killer b baffle, killer b oil pickup, gates timing belt kit, RH exhaust cam sprocket, RH rear timing belt cover, front RH timing belt cover, front center timing belt and STI oil pan. I would note that I didn't notice anything different between the new oil pan and the old one but replaced it anyway. Also the clutch looks like it got a bit hot so I'm looking at a new clutch and flywheel. Oh and my kit should be getting picked up this week so just a bit more waiting :)

[FFRSpec72]

I see you went with the high performance belt, I looked at that and asked the Subaru racers here if they ran that and got a no so just bought the normal one, so we will see if I made a mistake or not. How many leftover bolts did you have when doing the killer B baffle and pickup ?

[nkw8181]

I had two but didn't scare me because I counted... 1,2,3,4,5,6..... and 1,2,3,4.....hmmmm lol

[nkw8181]

Whoooo hooo and the kit has arrived! I'll post more pics tonight once I've resized them. Here is one to start off with.

[Mechie3]

Oh yeah!

http://th00.deviantart.net/fs70/PRE/i/2012/094/b/6/kool_aid_man__oh_yeah__by_mrfletch1000-d4uytdq.jpg

[Frank818]

Woohoo!!! You must be totally upside-down, congrats!!!

(after viewing the picture, you will understand the above :))

[nkw8181]

Ok so here come the pics :)

[EODTech87]

Congrats on finally getting your kit. Now the fun part of working on it through a hot Texas summer. :D

[nkw8181]

Hey gotta look at the bright side. The body should be easier to get in place right???

[EODTech87]

Lol. Very true. That's if it doesn't melt before you mount it.

[nkw8181]

This was in box one but not listed. any ideas? it throws me since there are 3.

[nkw8181]

Also while I'm here what are these being called? I think they are listed in a later box but haven't got there. also here are some pics of my modified wheel dolley's. I just drilled a hole through each side to mount them to the 2x4. the clamps are insurance. I spent a lot of time reorganizing the garage, stacking shelfs, putting up peg boards and here are the results. in the pic of the wheel dolly you can see that the body wheel flare edge is in need of help.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This was in box one but not listed. any ideas? it throws me since there are 3.

I suspect they are for the fuel filler hose and the forth one is in the box with the fuel cap.

[nkw8181]

Ok plan to get through the rest of the boxes tonight/tomorrow.

[Mechie3]

Those long aluminum pieces are the door card inserts.

[nkw8181]

That is what I would call them I just didn't see that name yet. They where in box 3 with the doors

[nkw8181]

That is what I would call them I just didn't see that name yet. They where in box 3 with the doors and not listed there

[nkw8181]

Ok now I'm stumped. I can't figure out what parts are what. looked though the manual trying to find pics of any of these and couldn't find any. So two questions: 1) what parts do I have and 2) what am I missing?

Thanks!

[metalmaker12]

The set on the left are for the rear hatch hood pins to mount to rear section. The pieces on the right are a bracket for the dash fuse box.

[nkw8181]

so that means I'm missing the shifter trim plate. Thanks Metalmaker12. I have some pics of the body work once I finish inventorying. the front wheel flare will need some love for sure.

[Kurk818]

Any photos of how they actually mount the fuse box using those brackets?

The set on the left are for the rear hatch hood pins to mount to rear section. The pieces on the right are a bracket for the dash fuse box.

[nkw8181]

I'm curious as well since there don't appear to be any clear ones in the manual

[EODTech87]

so that means I'm missing the shifter trim plate.

If I remember correctly someone else noted that the shifter trim plate and another piece were combined into one larger aluminum piece.

[Mechie3]

The new center console is aluminum and is combined with the shifter trim. Earlier models had a fiberglass center console and separate aluminum trim.

[Frank818]

The new center console is aluminum and is combined with the shifter trim. Earlier models had a fiberglass center console and separate aluminum trim.

Yes, I was one of the first to receive that alu part, so much that it was not part of my parts order list and had to ask Joe about it.

Chassis #181 April 26th.

[nkw8181]

Ok. The only things left to check are what's mounted to the car. I did find it odd that the aluminum door trim that goes on over/under the door handle didn't show on the list but was in box one. I spoke with Dan today on a few things that where missing over what was noted. Not very much really. They did send me side skirts instead of the street spoiler which was a bit of a surprise.. He is going to talk to shipping to see how/what they want to do.

[nkw8181]

Ok so someone correct me if I'm wrong but these two sets of holes look to close together for the front lower control arm???

[nkw8181]

oh and both sides are like that

[Mechie3]

It's supposed to be like that. One is a wagon set, one is a sedan set. Early frames had them farther apart due to a math error. Wagon track is (I think) 20mm narrower so they spaced them out 20mm. They forgot to divide by 2.

[nkw8181]

Ok thanks!

[nkw8181]

Ok maybe a stupid question but the aluminum floor panel that mounts under the seats is longer the the parallel tubes it mounts to and it has a tab in the middle that sticks out. Anyone know the correct orientation for this? (I'm not mounting it yet but trying to drill all holes before powdercoating)

[nkw8181]

Anyone anyone

[Triathletedave]

Ok maybe a stupid question but the aluminum floor panel that mounts under the seats is longer the the parallel tubes it mounts to and it has a tab in the middle that sticks out. Anyone know the correct orientation for this? (I'm not mounting it yet but trying to drill all holes before powdercoating)

The tab should be facing the front of the car. From above, you should see two small holes in the steel floor section near the back. The tab covers these holes. The front aluminum also has a matching tab. That one faces rearward to cover 2 more small holes in the steel section of the floor at the front.

BTW, the only stupid question is the one not asked. Ask away, the folks on here are great!

Dave

[nkw8181]

Hmmm ok I'll look tonight. It still strikes me odd on how much "wider" (front/rear) it is. There has to be atleast 6 in excess forward if you line up the back which is different from the pic in the book.

[nkw8181]

Ok so here goes with some overdue updates. First, I some of you may have found this as well but I don't remember reading it. I am glad that I did not drill all the firewall holes before fitting them. I found myself needing to shift them. also the passenger side corner panel has another panel that goes over it so if I had drilled those holes I would be trying to line up the new part. because I waited I was able to do it all at once. I also might be a little bit of a perfectionist by wanting my holes equally spaced and lined up. I will be using 10-32 rivnuts as well as rivets on some. In these pics you can also see the additional side panel.

[nkw8181]

So for the aluminum panels covering the tank I drilled the first set of holes as suggested but found things did not line up because the trim out was not big enough to clear the tank tabs. Also the edge was resting on the welds. I trimmed back the edge and opened up the spacing for the tank tabs and installed 10-32 type k rivnuts (short flange). I may have "a few" more then needed but found that the something is not square so this will help with alignment.. Most spacing is no larger then 2 inches and attempted to make everything even. I plan on using rivnuts for the back two large pieces, the two rear side pieces and there seat belt plate as well as the front sides and the front upper triangle pieces. The rivnut gun is a swivel rivnut/rivet gun that I got from Grainger which so far is pretty nice. FYI just don't try to pull them TOO hard. My mandrel is ever so slightly bent from doing so. Ok so I took one of the seat mounts (since I have aftermarket ones) and made a way to ensure the rivnuts are mounted flush each time. and here are some picture of using the rivnut tool and my makeshift tool as well as what the rivnuts look like installed. I went ahead and put them in the car just because and through a few screws in them. I find myself being careful not to cross-thread them ;) enjoy

[nkw8181]

more pics

[Mechie3]

I'm glad I'm not the only one that went a little crazy on the number of fasteners on the firewall. :D

[metalmaker12]

Have fun taking that off

[RM1SepEx]

I'm glad I'm not the only one that went a little crazy on the number of fasteners on the firewall. :D

I'm sure that he has an electric drill/driver... :rolleyes:

[nkw8181]

Wait..... you used electricity???!!!! lol.

[nkw8181]

Ok so I haven't been idle. I've been trying to make the seats removable from inside the car and make mounting points for the 6 point harness as well as have some adjustability in the seat. I ended up with a solution only to realise why factory five installs from the bottom. The space is so small it would be difficult to remove bolts in the rear (even though I can see my proposed mounting points) because it is hard to get your hands back there. I won't say how much time I've spent on this other then ALOT only to find I need to change directions. I'm now resigned to mounting from below but do want a bit more recline. My proposed version added about 5 deg more recline. I'll see what I can come up with when mounting from below. Wanted to share my frustration in hopes that knowone else goes through it.

[Mechie3]

Currently stuck on seatbelt mounting myself. The area is so tight and I don't want any chance of fraying belts. Definitely making the under panel removable though.

[freds]

Currently stuck on seatbelt mounting myself. The area is so tight and I don't want any chance of fraying belts. Definitely making the under panel removable though.

I ended up having to buy a set of crow's foot socket wrenches. It is a bear, no matter how you do it, if you have the belly pan attached...and I wasn't about to remove it...some 110 rivets, and I don't have a lift!

[nkw8181]

Ok so here is the solution I came up with. I used 1.5 inch tubing and put it at an incline of 1 in rise over 17 in. I started said measurement 1 inch forward of the rearward 1 inch bar. At the starting point the "top of the 1.5 tubing is .5 off the cross-members. Hope that makes since and of-course pictures help so here goes. I wanted this extra tilt because it makes for me being 6'1" relatively comfortable as well as lowers my head by ~2in.

[nkw8181]

Got the top holes drilled for the seats and the driver temp installed. I need a bigger drill bit and waiting it before I can fully mount them. I put the front bolts in and it feels great! I'm 6'1" and feel comfortable. Oh and I included a pic of me in the seat with the seat-belts laying in place. The seat-belt mounts are going to be next!

[STiPWRD]

Might want to install the pedals and steering wheel and check if you still like the seating. I'm pretty much the same height as you and using similar fixed back seats. The seating position felt good with just the seat in the car but once I mounted the pedals and steering wheel, it felt very cramped trying to press the pedals. But judging by the number of bolts on your rear fire wall, looks like you're committed to the stock tank.

[nkw8181]

That I am but the seat is reclined at ~35 deg which I've found helps. I do have some adjustablity but what feels best is all the way forward (weird I know) but with as much angle back as possible. This puts the top back of the seat almost touching the roll bar. The recline also puts my head lower. 1" raise at the front of the seat = 2 in drop at the top of the seat. Pedals and steering wheel may just go in before seat-belts.

[STiPWRD]

That I am but the seat is reclined at ~35 deg which I've found helps. I do have some adjustablity but what feels best is all the way forward (weird I know) but with as much angle back as possible. This puts the top back of the seat almost touching the roll bar. The recline also puts my head lower. 1" raise at the front of the seat = 2 in drop at the top of the seat. Pedals and steering wheel may just go in before seat-belts.

Hey whatever works right ;)

[wleehendrick]

That I am but the seat is reclined at ~35 deg which I've found helps. I do have some adjustablity but what feels best is all the way forward (weird I know) but with as much angle back as possible. This puts the top back of the seat almost touching the roll bar. The recline also puts my head lower. 1" raise at the front of the seat = 2 in drop at the top of the seat. Pedals and steering wheel may just go in before seat-belts.

I have the same seats and harnesses, nice choice! I'm 5"11" (long legs/medium torso length) and went with the Boyd tank, and bent my firewall for a couple inches extra room; I also have my seat reclined; I like to be able to fully depress the clutch with some bend left to my knee. Set-up like this, I have maybe an inch or two of headroom under the rollbar, and the pedal and wheel position are comfortable. However, there's no extra space to spare anywhere! You can fine tune the steering wheel position easily (I used longer spacers to lower mine, and a short hub, but the pedal box is tough to do anything about, so I agree that before mounting the seat, at least mock it up to make sure you're happy with leg position when operating the pedals.

[nkw8181]

Pedals and steering first then before seat-belts.. Wleehendrick, what I essentially did with my rise is the same as if we could use the lowest seat adjustment on the brackets My frame isn't powder coated yet so everything will be coming back off and then put back on again before "final" assembly. Can someone tell me if there is a such thing as "final" assembly on these cars :)

[wleehendrick]

Can someone tell me if there is a such thing as "final" assembly on these cars :)

Never! When I was writing my thesis, someone said it's like a work of art... never completed, just abandoned. As long as I have my 818, it'll never be 'finished'.

[nkw8181]

Lol that is what I thought would be the general consensus. :-)

[nkw8181]

lower harness and seat mount are DONE!!! man that is a great feeling! What do y'all think of my solution?

[nkw8181]

a few more

[tmoretta]

How are your shoulder harnesses mounted?

[Frank818]

What do y'all think of my solution?

I think it's pretty darn clean!

[nkw8181]

How are your shoulder harnesses mounted?

They will wrap around the square bar. I will be marking and cutting slots in the aluminum for them to pass through.

Thanks Frank I just wish it didn't take me so long to find a "simple" solution.

[nkw8181]

I have to get a new radiator and saw this one. What do you guys think? I thought having the in and out on the same side could make it cleaner.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIO-MMRAD-RX-LS/

[Frank818]

I have to get a new radiator and saw this one. What do you guys think? I thought having the in and out on the same side could make it cleaner.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIO-MMRAD-RX-LS/

The bottom pins don't seem to line up with those on the chassis.
At the top you'll have to do like me and design your own supports.

[tmoretta]

Do you know if "bolt in" harnesses could be bolted onto the square bar - bolts either horizontal or vertical?

[nkw8181]

Do you know if "bolt in" harnesses could be bolted onto the square bar - bolts either horizontal or vertical?

You might be able to do the anti sub ones but not the lap belts. This was a very helpful document for me. I'm not using there harnesses but found similar info with others. see page 40.

http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf

[nkw8181]

The bottom pins don't seem to line up with those on the chassis.
At the top you'll have to do like me and design your own supports.

Ok so I could go the other direction? yay nay?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1962522&cc=1432597

[Frank818]

Ok so I could go the other direction? yay nay?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1962522&cc=1432597

This one looks better, yay. For Subarus?
The Summit one is for Mazda, as they say.

[nkw8181]

I thought I'd see if anyone thought modifying the mount to have the in/out on the same side would be worth it. I may go with this one or spend a bit more and get a all aluminum one maybe by Mismoto

[nkw8181]

Ok I've bad about posting progress. Got the seats in, top harness mounting locations done, Gas tank put together ( what a pain to get the pump in the tank!) and engine in with new Flywheel.

33305333063330733308333093331033311

[nkw8181]

more pics

3331233313333143331533316333173331833319

[nkw8181]

Got the clutch on, tranny mounted and converted to two wheel drive. I do have one concern. There where these pieces in the bottom of the section (see pic) and I can't tell what they go to or did go to. I'm hoping that my assumption that this goes to the parts that I'm removing is correct. Please someone tell me this is correct.

333483334733346

[Erik W. Treves]

yeah...I'd be more worried that that isn't all of it. You don't know what type of damage was caused by that stuff floating around in the tranny. I am sure that's just where it ended up after taking a trip through your box....do yourself a favor and pull the tranny and get it inspected...easier to do now...been there, done that.

[Mechie3]

It's pretty easy to pull the tail off of the transmission to inspect it.

[nkw8181]

Soooo any idea what to look for? I will look into removing the last half of the tail

[STiPWRD]

Does the transmission shift into every gear easily and does every gear rotate freely? Did you change the trans fluid and see any metal bits in that? It's hard to get an idea of the scale of those bits in your picture but I would be concerned enough to take the trans off and crack it open for a full view inside.

[nkw8181]

It was wrecked when i bought it but i drove it into the garage. here is a better pic to show size.

33374

[nkw8181]

Looks like possibly 29??33381

[STiPWRD]

Looks like possibly 29??33381

That seems like a good guess. I'd suggest changing the fluid and seeing if there are any metal bits in that. Preventative maintenance now would be much easier than rebuilding a damaged trans later.

[Hindsight]

Just noticed your seats and mounts - very nice! At current configuration, about how many inches do you have between your head and the top of the roll bar? I see the pic you posted but is hard to tell from the low camera angle of that particular shot. Love the mounts... will probably do something nearly exactly the same on mine now that I've seen yours; thanks for posting such detailed pics.

How do you feel about the NRG seats from a comfort standpoint? Which model are they exactly?

Thanks!

[wleehendrick]

Just noticed your seats and mounts - very nice! At current configuration, about how many inches do you have between your head and the top of the roll bar? I see the pic you posted but is hard to tell from the low camera angle of that particular shot. Love the mounts... will probably do something nearly exactly the same on mine now that I've seen yours; thanks for posting such detailed pics.

How do you feel about the NRG seats from a comfort standpoint? Which model are they exactly?

Thanks!

I have the same seats (unless those are the cf version), so I'll chime in. They're NRG FRP-300 (https://www.getnrg.com/products/interior-products/seats/carbon-fiber-bucket-seats/frp-300). I haven't driven in them, but sat in them in the 818 for a while getting the ergonomics sorted. I'd recommend them; they're very comfortable for a light, fixed back bucket, affordable, but not FIA certified, if that's important to you. The way I have mine mounted (low and reclined, with a Boyd tank, and bent firewall) I have an inch or two below the rollbar. The harness bar mounts are much too high and I'll mount shoulder harness to the square tube.

[nkw8181]

That seems like a good guess. I'd suggest changing the fluid and seeing if there are any metal bits in that. Preventative maintenance now would be much easier than rebuilding a damaged trans later.

My roommate and I took apart the center diff and found the two washers missing so it is safe to say that that is what it was.


Just noticed your seats and mounts - very nice! At current configuration, about how many inches do you have between your head and the top of the roll bar? I see the pic you posted but is hard to tell from the low camera angle of that particular shot. Love the mounts... will probably do something nearly exactly the same on mine now that I've seen yours; thanks for posting such detailed pics.

How do you feel about the NRG seats from a comfort standpoint? Which model are they exactly?

Thanks!

Thanks Hindsight. I need to get a side pic next time i can sit in the car lol. it is a little cluttered. I can say that my design was to raise the front 1 in which dropped the top by ~2 in if that helps some. The center back of the seat is aprox 35 degrees tilt back.

[nkw8181]

Same as Wleehendrick. Only sat in it a few times but feels comfortable. I made my mounting brackets with the idea that if I want to get FIA seats they should still work in my mounts. I ordered my seats from Eric (33 Machine) as well as NRG's 6 point harness and a steering wheel. Great guy to work with


I have the same seats (unless those are the cf version), so I'll chime in. They're NRG FRP-300 (https://www.getnrg.com/products/interior-products/seats/carbon-fiber-bucket-seats/frp-300). I haven't driven in them, but sat in them in the 818 for a while getting the ergonomics sorted. I'd recommend them; they're very comfortable for a light, fixed back bucket, affordable, but not FIA certified, if that's important to you. The way I have mine mounted (low and reclined, with a Boyd tank, and bent firewall) I have an inch or two below the rollbar. The harness bar mounts are much too high and I'll mount shoulder harness to the square tube.

[nkw8181]

Got the rear suspension installed also had my roommate get a pic of me in the car. This pic has the seat cushions in. If I find I need more clearance I'll just use the front seat pad and remove the rear to make clearance. I should add that I'm 6'1".

334943349533496334973349833499335003350133502

[nkw8181]

Front suspension is on!! oh and my roommate decided his shoes double as shin protectors :)

[Hindsight]

Thanks for the pics. How thick are the seat cushions on those NRG seats?

[nkw8181]

Thanks for the pics. How thick are the seat cushions on those NRG seats?

The rear pad is 1in at the rear and 2in at the front and the forward pad is 2.5 in rear and 3.5 front.

Started taking the steering rack apart to de-power it and prep it to be welded. Here are the pics, I forgo-ed making a mounting bracket and just used what I had. gotta find a place to get it welded and the rod pressed out.

[DMC7492]

I like your seating arrangements, can you stretch out your legs straight against the front fire wall with the seats in this position? How much do you weigh? Okay disclaimer here and not going to break any man laws and loose my man card.
What is your pants size?
I am 6'0" and almost have to sit straight up with out a seat in the chassis. When pushing in the clutch at the top of the pedal my knees are hittin the wheel. Do you have a picture of your knees position when your feet are touching the pedals?

[wleehendrick]

I like your seating arrangements, can you stretch out your legs straight against the front fire wall with the seats in this position? How much do you weigh? Okay disclaimer here and not going to break any man laws and loose my man card.
What is your pants size?
I am 6'0" and almost have to sit straight up with out a seat in the chassis. When pushing in the clutch at the top of the pedal my knees are hittin the wheel. Do you have a picture of your knees position when your feet are touching the pedals?

I've got the same seats as Nolan and am close to your size, so hope this helps; I'm 5'11" 190lbs, 32" waist and 32" inseam, 17.5" torso length (C7 to Iliac crest, I know this from fitting backpacks) my height comes from my legs, not torso. I moved my firewall back with a Boyd tank and have just enough leg room; with the fixed back seats reclined you always have some bend in the knee as the seat bottom tilts too. I've always preferred this seating position as it helps if you're long limbed. I spent quite a bit of time adjusting things (lowered the steering wheel, re-postioned the throttle, easy if it's DBW), but am very happy with how it turned out. I've yet to drive it, but I'm not cramped in the cockpit, head's below the roll-bar, and have room to comfortably press the clutch pedal and heel/toe.

Edit: I should add I have a small 320mm steering wheel, which helps.

[nkw8181]

I like your seating arrangements, can you stretch out your legs straight against the front fire wall with the seats in this position? How much do you weigh? Okay disclaimer here and not going to break any man laws and loose my man card.


What is your pants size?
I am 6'0" and almost have to sit straight up with out a seat in the chassis. When pushing in the clutch at the top of the pedal my knees are hittin the wheel. Do you have a picture of your knees position when your feet are touching the pedals?

6'1", 195lbs, 33x34 or as much as 34x36 depending on brand. As far as a pic I will try to get one this weekend since there is "stuff" in the seats right now. The angle allows my legs to rest in the bend position so I feel comfortable. Haven't got the pedals installed for operation (no resistance) so I can't speak on that yet and I still need to put the cover on the steering wheel as well as possibly shortening it. I get some pics this weekend for ya.

[nkw8181]

I've got the same seats as Nolan and am close to your size, so hope this helps; I'm 5'11" 190lbs, 32" waist and 32" inseam, 17.5" torso length (C7 to Iliac crest, I know this from fitting backpacks) my height comes from my legs, not torso. I moved my firewall back with a Boyd tank and have just enough leg room; with the fixed back seats reclined you always have some bend in the knee as the seat bottom tilts too. I've always preferred this seating position as it helps if you're long limbed. I spent quite a bit of time adjusting things (lowered the steering wheel, re-postioned the throttle, easy if it's DBW), but am very happy with how it turned out. I've yet to drive it, but I'm not cramped in the cockpit, head's below the roll-bar, and have room to comfortably press the clutch pedal and heel/toe.

Edit: I should add I have a small 320mm steering wheel, which helps.

I have a 320 wheel as well and will be curious where my knees end up. Probably will be similar to you.

[Frank818]

I have a 320 wheel

Do you guys have any issues with viewing the top of the cluster? I found out that no matter how I adjust my seat and 320mm s/w, the top arc of the s/w blocks the view of the cluster area (top of it). I have to put the s/w so high in order to view the entire cluster hole that it's too unconformable to drive. Now that is just the hole that is covered at the top by the s/w, maybe when the cluster is in the gauges sit low enough so the s/w doesn't blocks the view. Just wondering if you notice the same thing.

[wleehendrick]

Do you guys have any issues with viewing the top of the cluster? I found out that no matter how I adjust my seat and 320mm s/w, the top arc of the s/w blocks the view of the cluster area (top of it). I have to put the s/w so high in order to view the entire cluster hole that it's too unconformable to drive. Now that is just the hole that is covered at the top by the s/w, maybe when the cluster is in the gauges sit low enough so the s/w doesn't blocks the view. Just wondering if you notice the same thing.

I haven't mounted my cluster, so have no idea. It could very well end up blocking the top of the tach/speedo. I'd rather have the wheel in the right position for driving, if it does end up there... oh well; maybe get a shift light.

[nkw8181]

I haven't mounted my cluster, so have no idea. It could very well end up blocking the top of the tach/speedo. I'd rather have the wheel in the right position for driving, if it does end up there... oh well; maybe get a shift light.

Ditto. Oh worst case I'll just learn to "listen" when to shift :-D

[Stickshift84]

s/w blocks part of the cluster on mine. DO not really need to see the speedo but can see enough of the tach for my comfort.

[Frank818]

s/w blocks part of the cluster on mine. DO not really need to see the speedo but can see enough of the tach for my comfort.

320mm as well?

[nkw8181]

So I believe I did this a bit different. I decided to cut off the plug ends and then paint it. I also got a local shop to press out the rod and cut off the piston. I have noticed that now it isn't hard to take out the rod but would not want to have to take out the seals. Hmm now I'm wondering what roll they are really playing and if i should just remove the seals. I'll prob just leave them in. On another note I decided against welding on the bearing sleeve to eliminate "play" but may shoot some epoxy in the holes. As it was said on the depowering thread if the epoxy ever breaks down there is no harm no foul.

337883378933790

I painted it with the same "Ford Blue" Enamel paint. Going to use that color for miss parts. Oh and I have a "few" goodies coming from Wayne at VCP! I'll show pics when it gets here!

[nkw8181]

I forgot to add that I plugged the holes with flanged pipe plugs with Teflon tape to make it a tighter fit.

[nkw8181]

So here is how it turned out33791337923379333794

[nkw8181]

Got my calipers painted.

33931339323393333934339353393633937

Is this the right orientation of the upper a-arms?33938

[Wayne Presley]

calipers look great and the arms are correct.

[nkw8181]

calipers look great and the arms are correct.


Thanks!

So for those of you who used the stock tank I have a question. Is there a good reason to have the fuel lines on the tank point towards the passenger side rather then going what looks to be the shorter route?

[nkw8181]

So after getting the engine and trans in I run across the simplifying EJ motor trend and decided to do a few. I took the coolant line that goes into the throttle body and made a bypass out of it. not sure If I'm going to just mod the TGV or buy the composite one. also considering an oil catch can or air to oil separator but know little to nothing about them. now time to research.

[Mechie3]

You can route the fuel lines however you want. Not sure if you can rotated the pickup itself or not in the locking ring. If you can't, just make a short loop to go to the driver side.

[nkw8181]

You can route the fuel lines however you want. Not sure if you can rotated the pickup itself or not in the locking ring. If you can't, just make a short loop to go to the driver side.

You lost me there Mechie. Are you referring to an AOS or just a catch can?

[nkw8181]

Done a bit since the last update. Installed ERG Tribaca blockoff plates, did the diy tgv deletes, polished the aluminum down to 800 grit including the throttle body, painted the manifold. The manifold would have been installed if not for those pesky gaskets.

[nkw8181]

more pics

[nkw8181]

Also I let my alternator fall off a chair and busted it up. Thoughts on how to proceed? buy used? buy new? If I buy new should I get something different? Can it be fixed?

[JeromeS13]

It's fine. That only serves as a guard to keep things out.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Also I let my alternator fall off a chair and busted it up. Thoughts on how to proceed? buy used? buy new? If I buy new should I get something different? Can it be fixed?
From what we can see in picture, it is good to go.
The copper wires on the inside are covered with some enamel insulation. Do you have any scratches on the wire insulation? If so, send me a close up picture to look at. You can buy some brush on insulation if necessary.
Bob

PS If you decide to take it apart. The is a trick to putting them back together. There is a small hole that you can put a stiff wire into hold the brushes out of the way during reassembly. Very difficult without this.

[Rasmus]

Alternator should work fine. Don't stick your fingers in there while it's running. :D

[Mechie3]

Take it apart, grind off the sharp edges. paint it, put it back together. :)

[JeromeS13]

I think Rasmus did this to his and saved like 5 grams? :cool:

[MrDude_1]

I think Rasmus did this to his and saved like 5 grams? :cool:

well.. he will NOW... lol.

[Rasmus]

Intentionally broke off alternator's case fins. Thanks for the idea Nolan. Saved 5 grams! :p

[D Clary]

I bought one from ebay, less than a hundred bucks brand new. Clean saved 2 grams.

[MrDude_1]

Intentionally broke off alternator's case fins. Thanks for the idea Nolan. Saved 5 grams! :p

I dont know what the stock alternator weighs on the subaru, but I know my old GM alternator weighed 14 something pounds, and my "lightweight" 40amp replacement alternator weighed 6lbs.

but I am full of bad ideas.

[Pearldrummer7]

I dont know what the stock alternator weighs on the subaru, but I know my old GM alternator weighed 14 something pounds, and my "lightweight" 40amp replacement alternator weighed 6lbs.

but I am full of bad ideas.

The alternator-weight discussion happened on Rasmus' thread a while back, actually (here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13496-Alternators-Amps-and-the-818)).

My vote is on using it, but if you really need to get another one, they're found in junkyards very readily from what I've seen.

[Rasmus]

I dont know what the stock alternator weighs on the subaru.
5.378 kg.

It's a good idea Dude. Great place to save weight.

[Hindsight]

It's a good idea Dude

When you keep saying that, I cant decide if you are addressing him or quoting The Big Lebowski ;)

[Rasmus]

Yeah, well, that's just, like, your opinion, man. ;)

[nkw8181]

Whoo hooo the manifold is back together as well as having the addition of Craig's version 2.0 cooling bracket. The bracket has plenty of clearance. Also I've seen others using this picture hosting site so thought it might be easier then resizing on my home computer.

http://imgur.com/a/x3GxQ

[Hindsight]

Looking good! You can copy/paste the links from the right side of the screen on imgur, into your message body so the pics appear in the message. It is more work.... since you have to do it for each pic, but just FYI. If you do it, use the link captioned "BBC Code".

[nkw8181]

So started installing the awic.
http://i.imgur.com/RkpyFRv.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/wsCrcgW.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/fPMQLAP.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/kVpv68a.jpg

I'm thinking of painting the intercooler the same as the manifold.

[nkw8181]

I started on the brake lines. For now I'm going by the "manual" but couldn't remember if there was anything vital to watch out for or that should be done different? Once it is done I may change it up but gotta start somewhere.

[nkw8181]

It has been a bit since I updated and I've got a bit done so here is an update.

-modified clutch slave cylinder to allow the clutch cable to mount from the driver side.
http://i.imgur.com/ccF3kIO.jpg

-Clutch and Brake lines ran (fronts still need mounting locations drilled)
http://i.imgur.com/2lnVtvi.jpg
-Mocked up shifter
http://i.imgur.com/JD0TgsU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/M1CXZ6K.jpg
-Installed shifter cables on trans
http://i.imgur.com/Xha6xIS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZLEd4l7.jpg

[nkw8181]

-Ran rear/side part of cooling system.
http://i.imgur.com/aIdXDip.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/72HglE9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YrlEfAo.jpg
-Installed radiator mount.
http://i.imgur.com/XpOXEZ9.jpg

http://imgur.com/a/jYbrF

[Wayne Presley]

Looking good Nolan

[nkw8181]

Thanks Wayne as well as for your help.

[nkw8181]

Got some updates. the Radatior is temp installed (waiting on bushings), AWIC heat exchanger installed. I started putting the wiring in and very quickly came to the conclusion that I only want to do that once. That combined with the fact that as Wayne said it would be better to have it running before modding the harness. Run, mod, check if still running and repeat. I have a few holes to drill out for some rivnuts as well as checking the routing for the AWIC hoses. Wayne I am going to try running the hose under the aluminum tubing next to the brake/clutch lines. So my question is to all you fine builders out there is are there any other frame mods that I should undertake prior to powder coating? one addition is I still need to figure out how to finish out the center console. thoughts ?

http://i.imgur.com/2D7pGCV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/odpmsSX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZyudLq8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1iRqBz2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/STaAPn5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YePtd57.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bU5Oelp.jpg

[nkw8181]

http://i.imgur.com/WHRRLHC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MmZT9nu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FVJxstG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nsZr8XS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VeuwtjC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WTkBbj0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zkY8nRy.jpg

[Frank818]

Shifter: You put the plate under the alu tunnel cover? I didn't think about that, too late now, I have cut a huge hole already, just did this afternoon. It still looks good with the plate over the alu, I think.

Console: Which center console version you got? The old FB is the new alu? I am currently installing it. What consumes most of the time is figuring out where I am going to cut to keep the shifter exposed. I might even bring the slope forward of the shifter, instead of just after. Anyway you can't leave it after, unless you want to cover most of the shifter.

[GUNS]

Your rear flexible coolant hoses need to be shortened or else they will interfere with the rear wheel well aluminum. Looking good though!

[nkw8181]

Thanks guys. GUNS will do on final assembly. Frank I have the sheetmetal one. Since ill be modding the harness anyway I'll do away with the vertical and make my own further back as Wayne suggested to me. It may be as small as a 5x5 in tunnel.

[nkw8181]

So as I'm taking things apart I wanted to see how a few more panels fit. Here are some pics of my engine floor panel. Is it to narrow? There is a gap on both sides. Also I have a second panel that is suppose to go from the engine floor panel to the diffuser. Anyone got pics of how to install the diffuser? While I'm at how about front splitter install pics?
http://i.imgur.com/scpPwz2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DhQCRNB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dXHc7A6.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9m2K3oY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PTDcnVj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IQUfqVC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MMbI4WW.jpg

[nkw8181]

How does this panel mount
http://i.imgur.com/vYrnU6N.jpg

[Santiago]

I thought I saw the same side-gap on Chad's engine floor panel, so this just seems to be the way those panels are supplied. Not the best, but likely dictated by readily available sizes of the sheets. You might want to look at his thread (Plavan) for his mounting solution.

Best,
-j

[nkw8181]

I'll check it out on reassembly. Got sidetracked "again" on my disassembly and installed some rivnuts for the center tunnel. Also the stock ebrake cable bracket came in so I placed the ebrake about where I want it. Will put the seat in tonight to see. I suspect that I will end up mounting that ebrake at downward angle under the aluminum to make the handle closer to level.

[nkw8181]

Can't forget pics
http://i.imgur.com/caLjj6U.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NZdt0Wt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JPRoXSV.jpg

[nkw8181]

He is the solution I came up with for.my ebrake, which I am very happy with. I also got the rest of the car stripped. I have a "few" more rivetnuts to install from underneath (not fun). In the teardown temp installed the VCP trailing arms just to see how they look/fit.
http://i.imgur.com/McNIgKL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Rwa6QBD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WfNLjfS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/4y6amdr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/k2LZ2Fx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XNYos9x.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7yEEwIA.jpg

[nkw8181]

http://i.imgur.com/2O2FSHT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/U7pO1kv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hr8xjko.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HxuaxAF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9lHXgjI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Fxs1kJk.jpg

I don't think my ebrake mounting will be moving :-)

[Frank818]

Nice solution, similar to one I had in mind. Which all changed once I saw your pix.

Cuz that just showed me I am going to have 2 major problems: My ebrake cables are not like yours, I don't have those metal clips close to the end, so I cannot attach the FFR cable brackets to them. I don't know why, I ordered new 2003 cables from online subaru parts. That's going to be a challenge. Second thing, my shifter is much further back than yours, the shifter's rod is slightly backwards of the transverse bars in front of the seats. Which means my ebrake handle will most probably hit the shifter since yours is quite close already.

Oh well, probably 10 to 20h to fix all this.

[wleehendrick]

Oh well, probably 10 to 20h to fix all this.

Or get a Lokar ebrake!

[Frank818]

Don't want to hijack Nolan, but let's say he would see a different option (even though he has found and built something great already).

The Lokar is 10in long, I don't know if that's going to fit. I don't even know how long my 2003 handle is.
If the Lokar fits, great, but it's over $100+shipping and then you have to buy the cables probably, as it may not fit with the Subaru's for which mine don't fit anyway the FFR brackets. Another $100++shipping. But in the end if I can't do anything with the stock brake....... money will be the only option to fix it. And I don't think hydraulic drift brakes are good, they are not meant for parking.

[wleehendrick]

The Lokar is much smaller than the Subie and can be made to work with the OEM cables; that's the main reason I went for it. Nolan did a nice job fitting the OEM handle, but the Lokar is a relatively easy install if you want to avoid the fabrication, which is why I mentioned it. Wayne posted a how-to someplace, so if you any questions, lets take the conversation there.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is it just me, our does this thread load very slowly?
I like your e-brake mod, may try something similar.
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

What was wrong with how FFR tells you to mount the ebrake (as I'm about ready to do this and would like to know if there are issues). Also I noticed you ran the tunnel aluminum on to of the k-tuned shifter plate, how did you deal with the gap at the bottom (floor) since its like a 1/4 short now ?

[Frank818]

Bob it does load very slowly. Probably the number of pictures along with the host site they are hosted at.

[Frank818]

how did you deal with the gap at the bottom (floor) since its like a 1/4 short now ?

I actually add gap to my alu cover, as it was not 100% sitting on the frame and it was erratic on the foot floor too. Besides, I will fill that gap on the floor with undercarpet or other stuff that add a gap anyway.

[nkw8181]

Frank do you have the Boyd tank? I heard that it would be difficult to run the lokar since the cables are suppose to mount from underneath.


Tony,

There isn't anything "wrong" with thw way F5 shows it I just didn't like how high it was and wanted it horizontal.

Frank mine is that close because I made it horizontal. How are you going to mount you cables if you don't have the metal ends with any configuration?

[nkw8181]

Like Frank that is where mine sat. Debating what to do for the front floor. Considering welding some tabs of angle iron to the front floorboard to use as mounting points so I don't rivet to the floor.

[Frank818]

How are you going to mount you cables if you don't have the metal ends with any configuration?

Bingo! When I read this and the encouragements of wleehendricks it made an explosive mix in my head. Couldn't think of anything else but that installation.
So I mocked it up. Shifter and ebrake, OEM. It's close but it doesn't annoy my shifting at all. In fact I plan on mounting the handle under the small tunnel tubing, instead of over it.

But like you said, that's not my problem! My problem is I still can't bolt the cables in place. I have a few ideas but I am missing that cable bracket and I can't recall it being on the donor, if I recall the brackets were welded onto the chassis on the tunnel. Anyway pix of what I mean on my thread and a taste of solutions to see what you guys think.

[nkw8181]

So I'm thinking of welding the brake line tabs to the frame. Any reasons I shouldn't? also is there an easy way to get a fifth one since I will need one for my clutch hookup or is the only option to make one? I have .125 thick scraps but looks to be the tabs are ~.100.

[nkw8181]

Did a bit more welding. Want to mount my center tunnel to the side rather then the floor. also these angles give me somewhere to mount speakers if I chose to later.
http://i.imgur.com/MbZLHBL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/W8mxuu2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GSsfmdS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FirtQcC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mmLvqWR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3mEx0QP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MVeifqI.jpg

[nkw8181]

I installed countersunk screws in all my rivetnuts to prep for powder coating

http://i.imgur.com/J18gYK2.jpg

[nkw8181]

Woooo hoooo and it's off to get purrdy via powder coating. Now what should I do without the frame....... Hmmm anything on the body that I should start with?

http://i.imgur.com/3r6ldsD.jpg

[nkw8181]

Wooo hoooo the frame and aluminum panels are back from the power coater and look great!

http://i.imgur.com/r61uduP.jpg (http://imgur.com/r61uduP)

http://i.imgur.com/69cCTk0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kgX45HI.jpg (http://imgur.com/kgX45HI)


http://i.imgur.com/Z25dvPX.jpg

[nkw8181]

Now to build for real!

[Frank818]

Darn nice! Great job!

Any close-up pix on some bars, like the roll bar and some big square ones?

[nkw8181]

Headed on a cruise but I'll get some better pics for ya when I get back and start building again

[nkw8181]

So life got busy but I finally got some progress to show. I got alot of the panels installed this past weekend. You can see the powder coat better as well even though it is dirty.

http://imgur.com/a/SEUyi

[nkw8181]

Thought the link would work :(
http://i.imgur.com/jpdkHNk.jpg (http://imgur.com/jpdkHNk)

http://i.imgur.com/ekvheVg.jpg (http://imgur.com/ekvheVg)

http://i.imgur.com/SxFHdJG.jpg (http://imgur.com/SxFHdJG)

[Mechie3]

Link works for me.

[ehansen007]

Wooo hoooo the frame and aluminum panels are back from the power coater and look great!


http://i.imgur.com/Z25dvPX.jpg

Dude, at first I thought you drilled out all your sheet metal for weight reasons... then I realized it was the mat under the car. LOL.

[nkw8181]

Ha ha ok that is pretty funny lol.

[nkw8181]

Finally got an update. I'm in the midst of prepping to move. So I'm hoping I got the front upper a-arms mounted right. Can I get a double check. Also all the front panels in can install are installed.

http://imgur.com/a/nZVfh

[TouchStone]

According to Wayne http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours&p=111559&viewfull=1#post111559 you did it right. According to the manual, even in the latest revision 1O it is very unclear. Mine are currently the other way, which is good indicator that your correct.

[Wayne Presley]

Mine are currently the other way, which is good indicator that your correct.

Now that is funny!

[nkw8181]

So long as we are clear who is Wright ;)

[nkw8181]

Making more progress bit by bit. Spent time grinding of the sway bar mounts painting my rear later links only to realize that one had a bend in it. So I ordered Waynes kit. I'm moving the car this sat to the new house so the pressure is on to be a roller again.


http://imgur.com/a/5PD9J

[Pearldrummer7]

Making more progress bit by bit. Spent time grinding of the sway bar mounts painting my rear later links only to realize that one had a bend in it. So I ordered Waynes kit. I'm moving the car this sat to the new house so the pressure is on to be a roller again.


http://imgur.com/a/5PD9J

Looks good! I love the painted aluminum panels everywhere with the contrast of the silver rivets.

[nkw8181]

Thanks, I found it didn't cost much more to have the aluminum powder coated along with the frame.

[nkw8181]

Got the car moved to the new place. I will say it is a pain to move a half built car buy got it done! I also got new brakes and rotors installed (and they are pretty!). As well as the turbo switched out for the 20g I picked up. Man there is a definite difference in size. Got the clutch Blead no problem but the brakes won't build pressure. I posted this in the brakes forum and was told that since the master cylinder was dry it may take a while to get bleed. The upper a-arms look like they may indeed need trimming. I have positive camber and not a little. Also the caster looks pretty high.


http://imgur.com/a/14rL2

[Mechie3]

Do you have an early kit? Early ones with the tilted top mount for the ball joint need to be trimmed on the driver side.

[nkw8181]

Just the driver side? The passager is the same. Kit 187

[Wayne Presley]

He has the flat ones.

[nkw8181]

Wayne I'll post some better pics when I'm at the new house showing the angles. With the wheels on it is very noticeable and it is at ride height.

[nkw8181]

Here's a pic showing the angle


http://i.imgur.com/SUjEvQu.jpg (http://imgur.com/SUjEvQu)

[Wayne Presley]

You do have a ton of positive camber

[Wayne Presley]

Once you get the wheels that you are going to run, you can open up the upper IFS adapter bolt hole and bring the tire in closer to the upper ball joint and get more negative camber that way. Can you take a pic of the set up from above the upper A arm so I can see the relative length of each leg?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The latest manual has starting rough dimension for the upper "A" arms.

When threading on the couplers. Start at both ends at the same time. There is a stop in the middle of the coupler where it switches from RH to LH threads. This give you the most adjustability.
The picture below is kind of bad, as it looks like one of the rod might be ready to fall out of the short coupler.

The top of the picture is the front of the car.
EDIT: MY MISTAKE, THE BOTTOM IS THE FRONT OF THE CAR.

Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40168&d=1427995419

[nkw8181]

The above pic is what I used but could not get to185.81. It bottomed out. I can't remember how much it was off but the shorter section is as above.

[nkw8181]

Wow I just realized it has been a while since I updated the progress on the car. After settling in after the move and removing the temp installed parts I've done a fare amount.

Corrected brakes and blead them, trimmed upper arms, installed shifter and all linkage, e-brake, drivers seat, frame nose piece, radiator with hoses, air to water intercooler with heat exchanger (no hoses yet) and wrapped /installed exhaust headers. I think I caught everything and I just made a pic album to speed things up.

http://imgur.com/a/EkXc3

[nkw8181]

Got the awic hoses installed and secured (minus the he return connection). Used clamps with zip ties and rivnut in various combination to secure both the awic hoses with the main coolant hoses. Also made a mounting bracket for the air intake.

http://imgur.com/a/OZ9NX

[nkw8181]

Got my front wheels in, thanks VCP, and started on the monster call wiring. Uhgg I tell myself one wire at a time. Just one wire at a time. I'm trying to modify as little as possible until I know it starts.

http://imgur.com/a/32qYF

[nkw8181]

Got my pre-order in for the hard top!

[TouchStone]

Your not the only one!

[nkw8181]

Looking forward to going to a car show and having to decide rather to go topless or not :D

[nkw8181]

Wheels and tires are in! Thanks Wayne!
http://i.imgur.com/3oQSdoO.jpg (http://imgur.com/3oQSdoO)

[Wayne Presley]

Told you those were great looking wheels..

[nkw8181]

Wheels, exhaust and wiring (mostly) installed. prepping for the first start.

http://imgur.com/a/zo3tP

http://i.imgur.com/HRedQ2C.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lbXmHNH.jpg

[Wayne Presley]

Nice pics Nolan :cool:

[nkw8181]

Thx, made it a hyperlink

[nkw8181]

What a weekend! My friends Ryan and Joshua (TouchStone) came over on Friday for the cars first start! Had a few things to overcome. First attempt met with failure and we found that the clutch sensor had to be adjusted. Second time it started right up which was awesome until the turbo oil line leaked most of the oil from the car. Next try found a coolant leak at whats found to be the npt mod I put in to help blead the system. Once that was done I found two more coolant leaks on the turbo coolant line. After all that the car starts quick and smooth. I'll get the video from Josh if Ryan and add it here soon!

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first start! That's cool that your friends were able to be there for it.

[TouchStone]

It was awesome! Glad I could be there. It's always exciting to hear these engines start.

[nkw8181]

So here's the video of the car starting after we got through leaking oil and a no start from the clutch sensor not reading.

https://youtu.be/mZgw2qdO5pM