Ball joint replacement

[wleehendrick]

Both my ball joint boots are torn (the lower ones from the donor, not the FFR upper ones); likely from tear-down. Is it possible to replace just the boots, since the joints are fine, or do I have to replace the whole assembly? For replacements, should I get OEM? I know aftermarket CV's have a bad rep. Thanks.

[Mechie3]

Don't know if you can replace just the boots. I bought new joints for $30ish from the dealer IIRC.

[wleehendrick]

Thanks for the info; I couldn't find boots for sale. Price isn't bad, so I'll probably just get new OEM joints, just seems a waste to toss two fine joints only because of a couple tears in a cheap piece of rubber.

[apexanimal]

energy suspension sells new ones, you just need to know the size...
but yeah, moog stuff is inexpensive enough...

[Racebrewer]

Depending upon how bad they are, you might want to clean the outside of the rubber boot and put a layer of black RTV over the crack.

I'm in the same situation and just hate to toss good ball joints.

John

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The lower ball joints on an 818 are load bearing. On the Impreza the lower joint is just a follower. Because of this, I am putting new ball joints in both my 818's.
The boot has a little wire the locks it to the ball joint housing, so it is difficult to change. If there was a slight chance any sand or grit got into the ball joint grease, you need to replace the whole joint anyway. RockAuto, MOOG K9513 $25.79 each
If you really want to just replace the boot you can get a RockAuto ULTRAPOWER Part # K9513 $6.09 and steel the boot.
Just my opinion.
Bob
PS: Getting a rusted ball joint out of the spindle can be a royal PITA without the special puller tool. Ask me how I know.

[wleehendrick]

The lower ball joints on an 818 are load bearing. On the Impreza the lower joint is just a follower. Because of this, I am putting new ball joints in both my 818's.
The boot has a little wire the locks it to the ball joint housing, so it is difficult to change. If there was a slight chance any sand or grit got into the ball joint grease, you need to replace the whole joint anyway. RockAuto, MOOG K9513 $25.79 each
If you really want to just replace the boot you can get a RockAuto ULTRAPOWER Part # K9513 $6.09 and steel the boot.
Just my opinion.
Bob
PS: Getting a rusted ball joint out of the spindle can be a royal PITA without the special puller tool. Ask me how I know.

Hi Bob,

I'll take a look at the Ultrapower piece to use to boot... $6 for a balljoint? Eeek! In general the 818 will should be easier on parts an a WRX. However, with the change from struts to double wishbone, I was wondering how that will impact the lower ball joint. Good reason to go with new quality parts.

Surprisingly, I popped both ball joints out without any difficulty. I say surprising because the CV's have been such a royal PITA! I got an axle puller which did the job for three of them. One, however just. won't. budge. I'm planning on putting the spindle on a massive press tonight... when all else fails, use a bigger tool, right?

Thanks,

Lee

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Bob,

I'll take a look at the Ultrapower piece to use to boot... $6 for a balljoint? Eeek! In general the 818 will should be easier on parts an a WRX. However, with the change from struts to double wishbone, I was wondering how that will impact the lower ball joint. Good reason to go with new quality parts.

Surprisingly, I popped both ball joints out without any difficulty. I say surprising because the CV's have been such a royal PITA! I got an axle puller which did the job for three of them. One, however just. won't. budge. I'm planning on putting the spindle on a massive press tonight... when all else fails, use a bigger tool, right?

Thanks,

Lee

I didn't take my CV joints out of the spindles. The wheel bearings all feel good.
Down the road I may go back and do wheel bearings and ARP studs.
Bob

[wleehendrick]

So I ordered a couple Moog balljoints... relatively inexpensive for the quality. Thanks for the input!


I'm planning on putting the spindle on a massive press tonight... when all else fails, use a bigger tool, right?

And, yes! I finally got that last #^$& cv joint of of the spindle. It just took a little persuasion (from a 50 ton press) :p

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24299&d=1387261838

24299

Now I can finish my suspension :D

[ktm]

That's what I had to do for one of mine too. Thank goodness for a press! I love mine!

[Triathletedave]

Help! I've been trying to remove both front lower ball joints in the front spindles, but with no luck. I removed both pinch bolts (well, 1 came out nicely and the other snapped off), and I can now get the ball joint to move inside the knuckle, but it simply will not fall out. Are there any tricks to removing the old ball joint? am I missing a second bolt somewhere? Can this usually be done without a pickle fork, or do I need to go shopping again?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Dave

P.S.: what is the best method of removing the bolt that snapped off? Do I need to drill it out and re-tap the threads?

[longislandwrx]

you need the ball joint puller tool.

or do it like this

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1989958


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=181229239231

[Goldwing]

If that broken bolt is still anywhere near the pinch point of the knuckle, then it is holding the cup of the ball joint in place. The cup has a recess where the bolt goes through. I had your same fate, 1 out, 1 broke with the bolts. I successfully drilled the bolt out and saved the threads, but got a longer bolt to back it up with a nut for extra security. If you miss on the drill and lose the threads, just buy a longer class 10 bolt to secure with a lock washer and nut or graded locknut. If you don't like that look, source another knuckle at a local yard or part-out shop. But yes, the bolt has to come out, drill and retap. Since the cup is moving for you, it should come out easy once you remove the bolt.

[wleehendrick]

Despite the issues I had getting my axles out (see above) my ball joints popped right out by hand. Good luck!

[Triathletedave]

If that broken bolt is still anywhere near the pinch point of the knuckle, then it is holding the cup of the ball joint in place. The cup has a recess where the bolt goes through. I had your same fate, 1 out, 1 broke with the bolts. I successfully drilled the bolt out and saved the threads, but got a longer bolt to back it up with a nut for extra security. If you miss on the drill and lose the threads, just buy a longer class 10 bolt to secure with a lock washer and nut or graded locknut. If you don't like that look, source another knuckle at a local yard or part-out shop. But yes, the bolt has to come out, drill and retap. Since the cup is moving for you, it should come out easy once you remove the bolt.

Ah yes, I see that recess in the new ball joint. I guess I need to drill out the old bolt and replace it with a longer bolt. I think re-tapping might be more work than it is worth.

[Goldwing]

Lol, it was a pain. If I hadn't drilled just spot on, I likely wouldn't have bothered re-tapping to save the threads. While I had trouble calling anything lucky after all was said and done, I did get pretty lucky with the drill press. The knuckle is an odd shape for such work. I ruined an aftermarket ball joint popper mine were so seized, and my donor only had 42,000 miles!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Ah yes, I see that recess in the new ball joint. I guess I need to drill out the old bolt and replace it with a longer bolt. I think re-tapping might be more work than it is worth.

Here's how I got the bolt out after snapping off the head.
Cut the bolt in half with a saw going through the slot..
Drill about a 3/16 hole through the center of the threaded end of the bolt until you reach the cut.
Insert punch and hammer out the non threaded end of bolt.
Using the hole you just vacated as a drill guide, Drill out the threaded end of the bolt.
THIS DOES NOT SAVE THE THREADS.
I then used a 7/16-20 x 2 1/2 grade 8 socket head cap screw with Nylock nut.
( I went a little big on the bolt to get better grip on the ball joint.)
Bob

[Santiago]

Ok, that Sniper ball joint removal tool is seriously cool! Great idea - simple execution - love it.

[Triathletedave]

Here's how I got the bolt out after snapping off the head.
Cut the bolt in half with a saw going through the slot..
Drill about a 3/16 hole through the center of the threaded end of the bolt until you reach the cut.
Insert punch and hammer out the non threaded end of bolt.
Using the hole you just vacated as a drill guide, Drill out the threaded end of the bolt.
THIS DOES NOT SAVE THE THREADS.
I then used a 7/16-20 x 2 1/2 grade 8 socket head cap screw with Nylock nut.
( I went a little big on the bolt to get better grip on the ball joint.)
Bob

Perfect timing! Since I don't have a fancy drill press, I was wondering how to drill out the bolt without possibly messing up the entire knuckle. Using one side as a guide should do the trick. Thanks.

[Bill Waters]

I have had the same experience as Bob and others with the ball joints being surprisingly difficult to remove, and my donor only had 42,000 miles. The reason they are so difficult to remove is that there is little if any clearance between the ball joint base and the spindle's housing. Since these are unprotected steel, both the ball joint base and the housing rust. The base of the ball joint housing has a circumferential relief around the base (the bolts hold the ball joint in by clamp force and by running across and interlocking with this relieved aspect in the base of the ball joint). Rust particles jam in the lip of the bottom aspect of the ball joint relief are and wedge in between the housing and the ball joint base.

Once you have the bolt out, the old ball joints can be removed by drifting them out a little at a time with a punch, going around different spots on the ball joint.

I agree with Bob; they are a total pain. With any luck, we'll only have to do this once.

Bill

[Triathletedave]

Here's how I got the bolt out after snapping off the head.
Cut the bolt in half with a saw going through the slot..
Drill about a 3/16 hole through the center of the threaded end of the bolt until you reach the cut.
Insert punch and hammer out the non threaded end of bolt.
Using the hole you just vacated as a drill guide, Drill out the threaded end of the bolt.
THIS DOES NOT SAVE THE THREADS.
I then used a 7/16-20 x 2 1/2 grade 8 socket head cap screw with Nylock nut.
( I went a little big on the bolt to get better grip on the ball joint.)
Bob

I did just as you described, and it worked nicely. Got the bolt out, and replaced it with a longer grade 8 bolt and nylock nut. Amazing how seized the ball joint was in the socket, but it popped out with a little more leverage. I just hope I never have to do this again!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I did just as you described, and it worked nicely. Got the bolt out, and replaced it with a longer grade 8 bolt and nylock nut. Amazing how seized the ball joint was in the socket, but it popped out with a little more leverage. I just hope I never have to do this again!

Dave
Good to hear.
Now let me know when you try and get the rear long lateral link bolt out of the lateral link arms.
Bob

[Harley818]

Hey Dave,
we must have been working on it at the same time !
My donor came with the bolt already broken off so I had no choice. Just started to drill hoping I could get an extractor on it. Got the extractor on it but even with some good penetrating oil it wouldn't budge and I bent the extractor. just kept drilling and now I'm going to do the same thing as you and Bob with a thrubolt and nut.
My ball joints still won't budge, so I'll have to try the same technique as shown on the subaru forum. Looks easy. Just have to get the shop to weld up a little puller tube with a 19 mm nut welded in......then find some 2 in pipe.....
My rear lateral link is still soaking with penetrating oil. I'll have to try the press on it, but hope it doesn't break like a couple of the guys.
Harley

[Triathletedave]

Hey Dave,
we must have been working on it at the same time !
My donor came with the bolt already broken off so I had no choice. Just started to drill hoping I could get an extractor on it. Got the extractor on it but even with some good penetrating oil it wouldn't budge and I bent the extractor. just kept drilling and now I'm going to do the same thing as you and Bob with a thrubolt and nut.
My ball joints still won't budge, so I'll have to try the same technique as shown on the subaru forum. Looks easy. Just have to get the shop to weld up a little puller tube with a 19 mm nut welded in......then find some 2 in pipe.....
My rear lateral link is still soaking with penetrating oil. I'll have to try the press on it, but hope it doesn't break like a couple of the guys.
Harley

I don't have any special tools or welding skills, so I simply put the spindle back into place on the car, and put both ball joint nuts on finger tight. Place a rag over the LCA to avoid scratches, and use a crowbar or pry bar between the LCA and ball joint to lift the spindle off of the ball joint. I tried for over an hour in the vice, but the ball joint would not pop loose. One push on the crowbar, and it popped right off! The rags prevented any scratching, so I was good to go. The socket certainly needed some cleaning before the new ball joint was installed, but the new parts were a snap to install.

[flynntuna]

Love it!
Give a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.

[Triathletedave]

Dave
Good to hear.
Now let me know when you try and get the rear long lateral link bolt out of the lateral link arms.
Bob

Oddly enough, those both came out quite easily! Sometimes you get lucky!