Brando's Newbie 818R Build Thread

[wleehendrick]

Hey Brandon, good to see you again, and meet your family.

Dru, I had Ron over on Friday to help me me out with my motor. He's a good guy, thanks for referring him to me. He likes the motor he's building for you, but thinks you're nuts... overkill for a 818!

[iWire]

Page 10 on your thread seems to be where you addressed the coolant burping. I still am having a tough time getting my arms around just what to do. I shot a video in hopes you might be able to identify where I went wrong...but now i realize i should have shot the turbo coolant reservoir. If that's what you need let me know i will re-shoot.
Thanks for the help on this. Its frustrating having it overheat in 10 minutes.


Are you referring to the small valve they installed on the heater hose loop? No I actually don't have one of those but that's going to be my next purchase. Would this be an alternative to RM1SepEx solution?

Here is the video, let me know if i need to re-shoot so you can see what you need


http://youtu.be/PHficGf0_yU

I would definitely agree with everyone here that you have a bubble, just need to find a good way to get it out.

[Brando]

I would definitely agree with everyone here that you have a bubble, just need to find a good way to get it out.

I'm tapping a 1/8" npt -> barbed nipple from the upper coolant hose off the motor and running that to the degas tank tonight. It sounds like that is the remedy.

[Wayne Presley]

Do my mod Brando, works the first time every time.

[Brando]

Do my mod Brando, works the first time every time.

Your mod is what i'm trying to emulate. Is my game plan above the correct approach?

[Wayne Presley]

Go from the water crossover to the unused port on the degas tank

[Brando]

So Wayne's mod worked exactly as expected.

I purchased a 1/8th NPT - 27 to barbed fitting and tapped it into the water crossover. I ran it to the degas tank and that was that. My overheating issues are gone and I now can drive for more than 10 minutes.
In light of this of made an appointment at the DMV on May 6th for their SB100 bill to register this beast.

Without this forum this build would be nearly impossible. Thank you so much for all your help along the way.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/watercrossover_zps7a326b5e.jpg

[Wayne Presley]

The reason why it traps air is the upper radiator hose on the WRX goes uphill to the radiator allowing the air to travel out. On the 818 the water outlet goes down and the water is unable to displace the trapped air. The highest part on the motor for air to escape is the water feed to the turbo which is only halfway up one head. So you put in a nipple on the water outlet and as you fill the motor through the degas tank, water runs into the tube to the water pump and fills the motor while the air escapes through the newly installed nipple and out the degas tank. As the motor runs the small bits of trapped air make their way to the degas tank.

[Xusia]

What is the degas tank? Is the tank Mechie3 made a relocation bracket for?

[longislandwrx]

What is the degas tank? Is the tank Mechie3 made a relocation bracket for?

correctamundo

[Bill Waters]

The reason why it traps air is the upper radiator hose on the WRX goes uphill to the radiator allowing the air to travel out. On the 818 the water outlet goes down and the water is unable to displace the trapped air. The highest part on the motor for air to escape is the water feed to the turbo which is only halfway up one head. So you put in a nipple on the water outlet and as you fill the motor through the degas tank, water runs into the tube to the water pump and fills the motor while the air escapes through the newly installed nipple and out the degas tank. As the motor runs the small bits of trapped air make their way to the degas tank.


Wayne - which degas tank did you use - stock or otherwise? Also, are you using one at the radiator only, or one at the engine as well? I recall someone suggesting the latter, but wasn't sure if that would be necessary with the water outlet nipple you suggest above.

Thanks,

Bill

[Brando]

I think by degas tank Wayne is referring to the turbo coolant reservoir not the overflow. If i'm not mistaken Wayne recommends an overflow on both the front RAD and the rear degas tank. I'm running a long hose from my degas up to the front overflow connected to the RAD. I plan on getting a second overflow soon for the rear however.

[Wayne Presley]

Use the stock degas tank with a coolant recovery tank in the rear. You can then run a recovery tank in the front or just plug the port on the radiator cap.

[C.Plavan]

Brando-
Did you need to use any teflon tape or did it seal fine?

[Wayne Presley]

Use teflon tape

[Brando]

I used teflon tape.
Wayne, If i'm using an AWIC i will need a recovery in the front as well right?
Is there any reason i cant run from the rear degas to the front recovery or is it a must to have a recovery at each end?

[Wayne Presley]

I used teflon tape.
Wayne, If i'm using an AWIC i will need a recovery in the front as well right?
Is there any reason i cant run from the rear degas to the front recovery or is it a must to have a recovery at each end?

I would run a recovery in the front and use it for both the radiator and AWIC heat exchanger. Then use another recovery tank in the rear with no line from degas in back to the recovery in the front.

[FFRSpec72]

Would also recommend that you use something like HyperKuhl to prevent corrosion and help heat transfer (I get maybe 5 degrees cooler when using this stuff) but after a season of racing when I drain the radiator/engine the solution is still light blue, no rust and the aluminum is not pitted/corroded.

[Bill Waters]

Use the stock degas tank with a coolant recovery tank in the rear. You can then run a recovery tank in the front or just plug the port on the radiator cap.

Thanks, Wayne

[Xusia]

Silly question time. If the degas tank is the one relocated by Mechie3's bracket, which is the overflow tank?

[C.Plavan]

Would also recommend that you use something like HyperKuhl to prevent corrosion and help heat transfer (I get maybe 5 degrees cooler when using this stuff) but after a season of racing when I drain the radiator/engine the solution is still light blue, no rust and the aluminum is not pitted/corroded.

I would suggest checking with the track or racing organization first. Some do not allow "Water Wetter" type additives.

[FFRSpec72]

I would suggest checking with the track or racing organization first. Some do not allow "Water Wetter" type additives.

All tracks here in the NW allow these types of additives (non glycol based), most of the organizations are silent on this as it is a track issue all tracks here in NW prohibit any glycol based products in the radiator. The race supplement here in the NW, is where they prohibit the glycol based products, not in the GRC.

[Brando]

Silly question time. If the degas tank is the one relocated by Mechie3's bracket, which is the overflow tank?

overflow tank = recovery tank.... the one FFR has you take from the radiator and relocate to the rear. I am keeping the one on the radiator and adding a second for the Degas tank

[FFRSpec72]

overflow tank = recovery tank.... the one FFR has you take from the radiator and relocate to the rear. I am keeping the one on the radiator and adding a second for the Degas tank

Ideally you would just need a degas tank or a air bleed point and overflow tank and plug the radiator overflow and make sure you use a non venting cap on the radiator

[Brando]

Unless you have an AWIC which needs an overflow up front as well

[FFRSpec72]

Unless you have an AWIC which needs an overflow up front as well

yea, I'm just staying stock JDM with tune, so ~300hp is enough for my daughter no need for AWIC

[Brando]

You don't worry about heat soak?

[FFRSpec72]

You don't worry about heat soak?

Nope, not running autoX and it never gets above 80 here and I run on tracks that have up to a mile straight, so the Subaru folks here have no issues with heat soak.

[07FIREBLADE]

Wow you got an appointment coming up that soon. Surprised that you got an appointment so soon. Who many sb100s are left do you know? Let me know how it goes. Getting ready to start making calls to the DMV soon.

[Wayne Presley]

Nope, not running autoX and it never gets above 80 here and I run on tracks that have up to a mile straight, so the Subaru folks here have no issues with heat soak.

And those cars have a much better airflow through the IC...

[FFRSpec72]

And those cars have a much better airflow through the IC...

There is very little track data on this car and its hard to say how it will perform w/o an AWIC, if I lived in a warm/hot climate I might look into an AWIC or if the tracks were short and no chance to cool down the engine I might look into an AWIC but for now it will be a wait and see for a stock engine.

[Brando]

Nope, not running autoX and it never gets above 80 here and I run on tracks that have up to a mile straight, so the Subaru folks here have no issues with heat soak.
I was reading the blue 818R was having major heat soak issues. Your comparing a FMIC to a TMIC. Might want to reconsider that one big T.


Wow you got an appointment coming up that soon. Surprised that you got an appointment so soon. Who many sb100s are left do you know? Let me know how it goes. Getting ready to start making calls to the DMV soon.
I will find out how many SB100's are left and let you know next Tuesday. Last year they didn't hit the 500 mark so i'm pretty confident they wont hit it this year.
The DMV doesn't check the car itself they just go over paperwork and take your money. I believe they give you a 2 month hall pass to drive the car while you get the CHP and referee to pass the car.
During those 2 months i'm going to try and get away with as much as I can. My thought is if i zip tie the lights and blinkers to the chassis and get my 5 point harness installed that i can drive it around without the body panels. That way I can iron out the kinks while keeping easy access to internals. Not to mention it sounds delightful.

[Brando]

Oops, sorry it was my Evo that had the FMIC. Obviously the EJ has a TMIC but you know what i'm trying to get at.
How's the harness working out for you?

[ehansen007]

I was reading the blue 818R was having major heat soak issues. Your comparing a FMIC to a TMIC. Might want to reconsider that one big T.


I will find out how many SB100's are left and let you know next Tuesday. Last year they didn't hit the 500 mark so i'm pretty confident they wont hit it this year.
The DMV doesn't check the car itself they just go over paperwork and take your money. I believe they give you a 2 month hall pass to drive the car while you get the CHP and referee to pass the car.
During those 2 months i'm going to try and get away with as much as I can. My thought is if i zip tie the lights and blinkers to the chassis and get my 5 point harness installed that i can drive it around without the body panels. That way I can iron out the kinks while keeping easy access to internals. Not to mention it sounds delightful.

Definitely go to San Clemente and talk to Guy. He knows the SB100 front and back. There's another lady there who is really good too.

[tmoretta]

What tools are needed to tap a burp nipple into the radiator outlet? I know that this nipple is then attached to the outer small hose nipple on the turbo tank. What does one do with the other (inner) nipple on the tank? Do you just cap it off?

[Wayne Presley]

What tools are needed to tap a burp nipple into the radiator outlet? I know that this nipple is then attached to the outer small hose nipple on the turbo tank. What does one do with the other (inner) nipple on the tank? Do you just cap it off?

You need an 11/32" drill bit, 1/8 NPT tap to put in the nipple in the water outlet. The degas tank has 2 ports on the tank and one off the tank cap. One goes to the turbo, one to the nipple and the cap port goes to the recovery tank.

[wleehendrick]

Definitely go to San Clemente and talk to Guy. He knows the SB100 front and back. There's another lady there who is really good too.

The DMV in SC? I might consider driving up there for my paperwork when the time comes rather than rolling the dice at the Vista DMV.

[wleehendrick]

You need an 11/32" drill bit, 1/8 NPT tap to put in the nipple in the water outlet. The degas tank has 2 ports on the tank and one off the tank cap. One goes to the turbo, one to the nipple and the cap port goes to the recovery tank.

Thanks Wayne, I'll be doing this soon, just ordered the tap off Amazon. Does it need to go on top of the outlet, or will it burp out air fine on the side?

Maybe we should move this discussion to it's own thread, rather than clogging up Brandon's. I'm sure most builders will want to know about and perform this mod.

[FFRSpec72]

Thanks Wayne, I'll be doing this soon, just ordered the tap off Amazon. Does it need to go on top of the outlet, or will it burp out air fine on the side?

Maybe we should move this discussion to it's own thread, rather than clogging up Brandon's. I'm sure most builders will want to know about and perform this mod.

You can also add a T filler neck between the pump and the hose, someone should be able to design a nice filler neck that will serve as a burper also

[Bill Waters]

You need an 11/32" drill bit, 1/8 NPT tap to put in the nipple in the water outlet. The degas tank has 2 ports on the tank and one off the tank cap. One goes to the turbo, one to the nipple and the cap port goes to the recovery tank.

Wayne - one question about your system: since the nipple is "open" all of the time, how is the system able to pressurize? I ask this contrasting this situation with a double-valve radiator cap and expansion tank- type setup. Is the static pressure of the "water column" of the coolant in the tank enough to offset the pressure?

Thanks, Bill

[tmoretta]

Thanks for the info Wayne. Are guys mounting the recovery tank near the engine then, or running a long hose forward and mounting the tank on the radiator as in the donor car?

[Brando]

Definitely go to San Clemente and talk to Guy. He knows the SB100 front and back. There's another lady there who is really good too.
I went to the San Clemente DMV during lunch today and they were closed for construction.


Thanks for the info Wayne. Are guys mounting the recovery tank near the engine then, or running a long hose forward and mounting the tank on the radiator as in the donor car?

I think people are mounting the recovery in the rear. In my case I have an AWIC which has a 2nd radiator up front which required me to have the recovery up front where it was originally. I have not yet purchased a 2nd recovery for the rear so I am running a long hose from the degas to the front recovery. I do intend to add a second recovery in the rear for this soon however.

If you don't have an AWIC your supposed to mount the recovery in the rear and plug off the front radiator and use the degas exclusively for overflow/recovery


Wayne - one question about your system: since the nipple is "open" all of the time, how is the system able to pressurize? I ask this contrasting this situation with a double-valve radiator cap and expansion tank- type setup. Is the static pressure of the "water column" of the coolant in the tank enough to offset the pressure?

The nipple runs to the degas tank which is still pressurized

[Wayne Presley]

The nipple runs to the degas tank which is still pressurized
Correct.

[Bill Waters]

So, then, the cap on the degas tank is a radiator-like pressure cap?

[Wayne Presley]

Yes it is

[Bill Waters]

Thanks

[Wayne Presley]

There is very little track data on this car and its hard to say how it will perform w/o an AWIC, if I lived in a warm/hot climate I might look into an AWIC or if the tracks were short and no chance to cool down the engine I might look into an AWIC but for now it will be a wait and see for a stock engine.

Another thing to consider since you are going to run the stock ECU is that the air temp sensor is in the MAF and ahead of the turbo and IC. The ECU has no way to know how well the IC is cooling the air charge. It's only safegard is the knock sensor which pulls timing and the car slows down. I brought an OBD II datalogger to the track testing to check the effectiveness I was surprised that the thermistor was just an ambient air temp.

Sorry about the thread hijack Brando

[Brando]

You know i don't care bro. Hijack away

[longislandwrx]

Brandon, I picked up one of these so I can tweak my air to air intercooler.

http://www.fastwrx.com/mavdiintega.html

[Mechie3]

Is it bad to use two recovery tanks, one in the front on the radiator and one in the back on the fill tank?


I ran my fitting/hose to the top. There's a nice square boss on the casting on my 06 pipe that gives extra meat for threads to grip and seal against. I used a 90deg fitting because the turbo inlet runs over this pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/GNQa0F6.jpg?1

[Wayne Presley]

Is it bad to use two recovery tanks, one in the front on the radiator and one in the back on the fill tank?


Works just fine, the stock WRX uses the same two recovery lines that happen to go to one tank instead of two tanks.

[Brando]

Brandon, I picked up one of these so I can tweak my air to air intercooler. http://www.fastwrx.com/mavdiintega.html

That is slick.
What kind of adjustments can you make on your intercooler?

[Wayne Presley]

Here is an 06-07 and a 02-05 tank. A goes to turbo, B goes to the new nipple and C goes to recovery tank.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/tanks_zpsff30431a.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/tanks_zpsff30431a.jpg.html)

[longislandwrx]

I will use it to make sure it is getting enough airflow... I know what deltas people are getting on the Grimmspeed TMIC on WRXs, so I'll be using that as a target to determine what sort of ducting/cutout and or fan is needed.

I'll also be able to throw the stock tmic on there and get numbers to people who are using the FFR ducts/stock IC.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is it bad to use two recovery tanks, one in the front on the radiator and one in the back on the fill tank?


Craig,
You can get it trouble with 2 tanks.
When hot it could dump coolant into tank A. When it cools it could suck out of tank B. Or vise versa.

Best to run both overflow hoses to the bottom of the same tank.
Bob

[wleehendrick]

Here is an 06-07 and a 02-05 tank. A goes to turbo, B goes to the new nipple and C goes to recovery tank.

Thanks, Wayne. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words...


I ran my fitting/hose to the top. There's a nice square boss on the casting on my 06 pipe that gives extra meat for threads to grip and seal against. I used a 90deg fitting because the turbo inlet runs over this pipe.

Thanks Craig. That looks like a good location. Unfortunately, I just installed my Gimmick inlet, so now I have to go back and get it out of the way! If I had known about this last week...

[flynntuna]

Here is an 06-07 and a 02-05 tank. A goes to turbo, B goes to the new nipple and C goes to recovery tank.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/818-build%201/tanks_zpsff30431a.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/818-build%201/tanks_zpsff30431a.jpg.html)


Thanks Wayne, that cleared up the confusion in my mind. ( at least on this question. LOL)

[Brando]

You can get it trouble with 2 tanks.
When hot it could dump coolant into tank A. When it cools it could suck out of tank B. Or vise versa.
Best to run both overflow hoses to the bottom of the same tank.
Bob

That created question to the setup.
I have a 1.3 bar radiator cap and a 1.1 bar degas cap. In that scenario isn't it safe to say the 1.1 will blow off first? If so does the 1.1 also suck back in first when the water cools?
If yes to both then wouldn't it be safe to cap off the overflow nipple on the front 1.3 bar radiator cap?

[JeromeS13]

Best bet is to use the correct caps on each end. The OEM upper coolant reservoir cap vents and pulls a vacuum. The OEM radiator cap ONLY vents. It will not pull a vacuum when the system cools. IIRC, the radiator cap is also a higher pressure than the upper cap (18 lbs vs. 16 lbs).

[Wayne Presley]

That created question to the setup.
I have a 1.3 bar radiator cap and a 1.1 bar degas cap. In that scenario isn't it safe to say the 1.1 will blow off first? If so does the 1.1 also suck back in first when the water cools?
If yes to both then wouldn't it be safe to cap off the overflow nipple on the front 1.3 bar radiator cap?

It will pull from the one with the recovery tank closest in height to it's respective cap as it take more suction to lift it from a lower level. So if you mount each recovery tank at the same height difference from their caps, they should draw at the same rate.

[Brando]

It's hard to see in the picture, but the rear hatch panel body pins are an inch or so too high. I have adjusted them as low as possible

What's the trick?

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140504_090615_zpsc7b8b394.jpg

[metalmaker12]

You have to either make brackets to set them lower or extend there threads

[Stickshift84]

"the rear hatch panel body pins are an inch or so too high. I have adjusted them as low as possible"

I had the same problem last week. Either yourself or have somebody else as I did extend the threads on the pins close to the holes that go through the pins. Problem solved.

[Doowop]

Brandon, did you have to cut around the roll bar to fit the panel? what's up with the gap left under the bar? Is the cut off piece just get mounted there? thanks

[Brando]

Brandon, did you have to cut around the roll bar to fit the panel? what's up with the gap left under the bar? Is the cut off piece just get mounted there? thanks

The gap left under the "R" bar is "as is" and came from FFR as you see it. I looks fine in person, the picture seems to accent that gap more than real life does.

[Brando]

284 HP & 269 lbft to the wheels.

It's a whole new world driving the car now. The tires are putting the power down well. In a straight line they don't break loose even in 1st. Neck snapping quick. I LOVE IT!!


http://youtu.be/o-3N5B3dw-A

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/Dynotune-boost_zps29bc4b2b.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/Dynotune-power_zps5fb5d777.jpg

[Doowop]

The gap left under the "R" bar is "as is" and came from FFR as you see it. I looks fine in person, the picture seems to accent that gap more than real life does.

which actually bring a point. On the Blue R, they have some Carbon fiber (or carbon fiber looking pieces) in that opening and also around the door edges and the other cut out like where the wing goes. Have you or any R owner thought about what to do there to make it prettier?

Great numbers on the Dyno BTW!! :)

[Scargo]

On the Blue R, they have some Carbon fiber (or carbon fiber looking pieces) in that opening and also around the door edges and the other cut out like where the wing goes. Have you or any R owner thought about what to do there to make it prettier?
As an R owner, functional comes to mind. Pretty does nothing. Perhaps sexy could make it faster.

[C.Plavan]

Tape :)

[metalmaker12]

Nice power man, I was so close to the dyno, actually was planned for yesterday and I was expecting 340whp, but now it's zero lol .

[Brando]

Ouch. You were at 16 psi and 275 hp iirc
You think 65 whp was in your reach? That's quite a jump.

[Doowop]

As an R owner, functional comes to mind. Pretty does nothing. Perhaps sexy could make it faster.

There is a few things between pretty and ugly. I really don't car about carbon fiber stuff, I actually wish that FFR would supply all their CF stuff in 100% fiberglass so I could just paint it and be done with it, but anyway, it is not because it is a race car that it has to look unfinished. Adding a couple pieces of trim around the raw fiberglass cuts looks more professional and finished, that's all.

[Brando]

Granted I have no mirrors, front panels, windshield and a few other nick nacks, what I do have is a 2 month temporary registration!

Whoohoo!

Perhaps I'm begging for a fix-it ticket driving around but the only items ticket-able can be signed off at the CHP visit (step 2). At least my car wont get impounded if I get pulled over.

Car is getting aligned today and instead of renting ANOTHER uhaul ($800 in rentals to date) I am just driving it from the alignment shop to the muffler shop. Super sweet!!

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/sb100-registration_zps7c8a1634.jpg

[wleehendrick]

Awesome! Any issues at the DMV? I'll be doing the same hopefully not too long from now...

[longislandwrx]

set up on the dynopack there's not much left of the car! lol.

[Brando]

Actually yes. The first lady I spoke with told me I needed the car present at the DMV location. I insisted this wasn't correct and pulled out documentation I had printed out (Eric Hansons post on SB100) on the subject. She didn't budge so I asked to speak with her supervisor. The supervisor had a much better understanding of the process although I still found myself educating her frequently. In fact they borrowed the guidelines I had printed out and used them as a reference. Kinda scary.

At one point they asked me if i had paid taxes on the purchase. Surprisingly they didn't look at the receipts. I opted for the safe and honest route and paid $1,300 in taxes (10,990 + $3500 motor&trans) but probably could have slid by if integrity didn't prevail.

I had all my documentation filled out prior, a neatly organized folder and was as humble and kind as possible. I tried to present like I was an organized guy, i sure fooled them.

[longislandwrx]

What was your baseline power before the tune?

[Brando]

set up on the dynopack there's not much left of the car! lol.

I didn't have the exhaust routed out the 4" exit hole i cut. I didn't want to cook my panel nor have the motor ingest anything but fresh O2. I had to remove all the body panels at the Dyno and put them back on after. I have sheet screws still securing the sides & back so it only took 20 minutes.

I did leave the engine hatch on though. AKA spoiler

[Brando]

What was your baseline power before the tune?

A tid under 200, but it had added 750cc injectors and the engine was noticeably choking. I never got the engine dyno'd in its stock form. It is a JDM with avcs so i would like to think its a 220 HP at the crank. Now its somewhere around 333 CHP

[wleehendrick]

Actually yes...

Thanks for the info on your first hoop to jump through. I usually get frustrated with bureaucratic incompetence, so I'll have to remind myself to go prepared, expect the run-around and be nice. :o

[FFRSpec72]

A tid under 200, but it had added 750cc injectors and the engine was noticeably choking. I never got the engine dyno'd in its stock form. It is a JDM with avcs so i would like to think its a 220 HP at the crank. Now its somewhere around 333 CHP

If it's a EJ207 then should be somewhere around 280 stock at the crank

[metalmaker12]

Depending on ej207 version, if it's a v7 or v8. V7 about 286-290crank hp and like 290 torque and v8 is about 290-300 crank hp and 300 torque. They are surprising more powerful than one would think due to the large head ports. With 20 psi and no mods my friend just made 325whp and 304wtorue on his Gc. With the 818 and the same tune you can get like 335whp +and 310w torque all day.

What version you have: I have a version 8 with the vf37 twinscroll. I had around 260-280 whp on a base map of only 16 max psi. Btw I am doing my body work a bit more and than tearing the engine out for its rebirth. This time it's going to get some extra metal love. CP Forged pistons, maybe 2.2 stroker build , rebuilt heads with a little more porting with a Dom 1.5. This is only if I need to. If it's just a head gasket or something stupid I will just repair and move on.
Your power is about where you should be and it's a safe tune for this engine cause most guys crank it past 20psi on em.

Congrats on dmv thing

[C.Plavan]

EDIT- I found what you did in another thread. I'm going to do the same. F those metric adapters :)

Brando- Did you notice the metric adapters for the Wilwood flex lines only have less than a turn before it engages? Kinda concerning. What did you do? I cant see on your brake line pictures.
http://i.imgur.com/5t1gpMyl.jpg (http://imgur.com/5t1gpMy)
http://i.imgur.com/OH4HWWWl.jpg (http://imgur.com/OH4HWWW)

[Brando]

EDIT: I just noticed your edit, but here it is again :)

Went from Wilwood Caliper -->-3 to 1/8in Pipe Straight Fitting (http://www.cmwraceparts.com/proddisp.php?ln=5528) --> 18in -3 Brake Line (http://www.cmwraceparts.com/proddisp.php?ln=4798)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/brakefitting_zpsa5feae82.jpg (http://www.cmwraceparts.com/proddisp.php?ln=5528)


http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/brakelines_zps59030f65.jpg (http://www.cmwraceparts.com/proddisp.php?ln=4798)



RAYH14572 Brake Fitting Clip (4pk) $4.95
4 x XRP981603 -3 to 1/8in Pipe Straight Fitting $13.88
2 x SBL318 18in -3 Brake Line $19.90
2 x SBL316 16in -3 Brake Line $19.90

[Brando]

Went for my first drive this morning. Made it from the alignment shop to the muffler shop. 2 miles during rush hour.
I don't think I will be doing that again until the car is legit, not worth the impound. It did make for a good adrenaline rush

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/P5070280_zpsb2f44283.jpg


At least the tail lights were in working order

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/drivingmy818_zps20c82812.png


Got some items back from the powder coater. Came out perfect

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140507_170608_zps875adce5.jpg


Almost done cutting and sanding the vent holes. Not my favorite part of the build

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140507_170652_zps3e6ef0b1.jpg


Used a 1/2 - 20 tap to extend the threads for the rear engine hatch
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140507_170909_zpsdad2ba53.jpg


Off topic but got my Evolve board setup for all terrain today. 23 MPH is too fast to run it out... no bailing allowed

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140507_171106_zpseb064b00.jpg

[longislandwrx]

I'm always amazed at how much power those LiPo batteries have.

congrats on your joyride!

[Brando]

I stumbled a bit on the vents but ended up with following working best for me.
The sharpie was a must IMO


bend outside piece and test fit
mark any exposed fiberglass
fine tune & trim fiberglass to remove any reveal
black sharpie inside reveal edge between vents
silicon inside vent securing with zips
silicon outside vent securing with zips
remove excess silicon


http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_091233_zpsd8b20a21.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_084921_zps85ec6a2d.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_091220_zps738e1b0a.jpg

[Mechie3]

I dislike how the radius of the hood ring isn't concentric with the radius of the hood. Not something you did, just how its made.

Driving in half go kart mode must have been head turning in traffic. Lol

[wleehendrick]

black sharpie inside reveal edge between vents

I did the same.

[wleehendrick]

Also, I found weights worked better than zip-ties and allen keys to secure during bonding. I used my primal-bells!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=28906&d=1399570485

28906

[Brando]

That's a good idea. I didn't even think of using my weights. That only would work for the inside vent however. It would be tough to get the outside edge of the outer vent with weights.

Craig, i noticed that as well. There is no easy way to fix that is there?
And yes...huge head turner. That's why it was sketchy...no way the popo would miss that one

[C.Plavan]

Just out run them. I wanna see the chase on TV. Haha

[Mechie3]

Brandon, you'd have to do fiberglass work or have new trim rings made.

[Brando]

I will leave the fiberglassing to Aloha818. Man he is going DEEP on the glass work.

I picked up my car from the muffler shop during lunch today. When i dropped it off at home I went for another joy ride around the neighborhood. This time I ran 1st and 2nd with all she had. All I can say is all you guys must have REALLY fast cars outside of your 818 because not nearly enough people are taken back by how fast this thing is. I can say with 100% confidence I have never driven a quicker car. It's intoxicating and I'm so incredibly stoked on how this car is feeling so far.

I am trying to set my brake bias. I have it set to minimize front brakes. I can't seem to get the rear tires to lock or even get a chirp out of them. I was doing a full panic stop at 45mph. If i set the bias to maximum front I CAN get the fronts to lock up however. Do i need to find a slicker surface, go faster or what is the best practice when setting the bias? I realize my tire choice isn't going to help, they're pretty soft. Any tips?

[metalmaker12]

The 818 is sick fast, I am not only a builder of one but a happy owner lol:o

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I will leave the fiberglassing to Aloha818. Man he is going DEEP on the glass work.

I picked up my car from the muffler shop during lunch today. When i dropped it off at home I went for another joy ride around the neighborhood. This time I ran 1st and 2nd with all she had. All I can say is all you guys must have REALLY fast cars outside of your 818 because not nearly enough people are taken back by how fast this thing is. I can say with 100% confidence I have never driven a quicker car. It's intoxicating and I'm so incredibly stoked on how this car is feeling so far.

I am trying to set my brake bias. I have it set to minimize front brakes. I can't seem to get the rear tires to lock or even get a chirp out of them. I was doing a full panic stop at 45mph. If i set the bias to maximum front I CAN get the fronts to lock up however. Do i need to find a slicker surface, go faster or what is the best practice when setting the bias? I realize my tire choice isn't going to help, they're pretty soft. Any tips?

Did you drill the hole 3/4" higher in the brake pedal. Erik (ehanson007) had this same issue.
Bob

[07FIREBLADE]

What muffler shop did you use and what setup are you running if you don't mind saying.

[Brando]

Did you drill the hole 3/4" higher in the brake pedal. Erik (ehanson007) had this same issue

Yes I did re-drill the hole for better a fulcrum. I will check with Erik, he is right down the road. Thanks


What muffler shop did you use and what setup are you running if you don't mind saying.

When you say setup can you be more specific? I went to Mesa Muffler in Costa Mesa. He did a good job. $250 included the muffler, welding and bending, as well as fabricating 3 mounts for my AWIC and also bending/tweaking the fuel fill tube to work with the boyd gas tank.

4" exit hole
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_164722_zpse8bb74b7.jpg

You can see one the brackets for the AWIC as well as the muffler work
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_164751_zpsb1d7cce3.jpg

One more AWIC bracket (3 total)
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_164803_zps7906236d.jpg

Fuel fill tube for Boyd tank
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_164839_zps7b13e2e6.jpg



I also purchased 2 side view mirrors from a 944 race car. The combined weight of both mirrors was under 1lb. Impressive but frail. After drilling into my doors to install i snapped the drivers mirror adjusting it.
I think I found a similar shaped replacement so i won't have a 1/4" hole on a focal point of the car. Below are the 944 mirrors. Here are the Black Baby Turbo Mirrors i'm going to use to replace the 944 mirrors in the pics below (http://www.mooreparts.com/1643-AC857800/)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_183819_zpsedb779eb.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140508_183842_zpsec431b41.jpg

[Doowop]

Hey Brandon,
awesome you went for a ride!! I think I'd be too chicken to do that, especially since the police station is a few blocks from my house!! :)
What are you thinking for the rear view mirror in the center. Anybody knows what is the one they are using on the blue car? It mounts on the dash.
So, How quiet is it with that big *** muffler? I do like the location of the exit pipe.

[longislandwrx]

Any tips?

Did you follow Wilwoods procedure for bedding your pads?

Once the brake system has been tested and determined safe to operate the vehicle, follow these steps for the bedding of all new pad materials. These procedures should only be performed on a race track, or other safe location where you can safely and legally obtains speeds up to 65 MPH, while also being able to rapidly decelerate.

•Begin with a series of light decelerations to gradually build some heat in the brakes. Use an on-and-off the pedal technique by applying the brakes for 3-5 seconds, and then allow them to fully release for a period roughly twice as long as the deceleration cycle. If you use a 5 count during the deceleration interval, use a 10 count during the release to allow the heat to sink into the pads & rotors.

•After several cycles of light stops to begin warming the brakes, proceed with a series of medium to firm deceleration stops to continue raising the temperature level in the brakes.

•Finish the bedding cycle with a series of 8-10 hard decelerations from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH while allowing a proportionate release and heat-sinking interval between each stop. The pads should now be providing positive and consistent response.

•If any amount of brake fade is observed during the bed-in cycle, immediately begin the cool down cycle.

•Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.


Also, you've got big brakes... you're going to need to get some serious heat in them before they are going to grab hard enough to rip your face off.
Bed the pads, then take it to a place where you can drive hard enough to get some heat built up.

[07FIREBLADE]

When you said you went to a muffler shop I thought you might of changed your setup since the HB show. For 250 that's crazy good.

[Brando]

Anybody knows what is the one they are using on the blue car? It mounts on the dash.
So, How quiet is it with that big *** muffler? I do like the location of the exit pipe.

I stumbled upon a nearly identical dash mounted mirror as the FFR Blue R car. I'm struggling to find it now and wish I had just purchased while I was on the page. If you find one like it please share the link, I will do the same.
The car isn't as quiet as you would think. It's pleasant at idle, but still plenty loud when you get on it. I have been meaning to get some cockpit video and a flyby. Perhaps after work.



Did you follow Wilwoods procedure for bedding your pads?

Good stuff. I haven't bedded my pads, in fact I didn't know there was a procedure for it. Will do
Thanks brotha

[longislandwrx]

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/black-with-flat-lens-center-post-series.html

[Santiago]

Good stuff. I haven't bedded my pads, in fact I didn't know there was a procedure for it. Will do


What pads are you running? Bedding pads isn't such a big deal for street pads, 50 miles of normal street driving will do it fine (don't get on them hard until then). Race pads are another story. You need to bed these or they will not perform up to their potential.

The same goes for heat. For a street pad, they are designed to operate at their full potential from ambient to 500-600 deg. F (maybe more for something like a Hawk HP+). Race pads however don't get into their optimum range until 200 deg or more, but they'll perform happily up to 1,000 - 1,600+ deg F depending on the pads you get.

Keep in mind, we're talking about "optimum" performance. All pads will stop the car at ambient, just not as well as they might be able to should their optimal range be higher. Note, even at sub-optimal levels, a good race pad will stop the car better than an everyday street pad. I used to run my Carbotech XP10s & XP12s on the street for short durations and was always nervous that the cars around me couldn't stop as fast as those things would bring my car down from speed. I've heard that Hawk's line of race pads are not nearly as capable at ambient compared to higher temp ranges.

The real concerns with running more aggressive pads on the street is that they do unhappy things, like make hellish noise, and leave lots of dust (some of which is highly corrosive depending on the pad compound). Also, often (because they're not in their optimal temp range) they start wearing away the transfer layer that should previously have been deposited via proper bedding...then they start re-depositing it in uneven ways, leading to pulsing and generally poor braking performance (no, they don't "warp" the rotor, they're just leaving uneven deposits, which makes the unsuspecting tech-goon at your local parts store claim he's measuring "warping"). If you get on the brakes hard after this has happened, its not a pretty sight (mmm...yup, ask me how I know). Different pad compounds are apt to do this to different degrees, so there are no real absolutes here (it is friction after all, and that's always compound/condition specific).

Moral of the Story: Don't run your super-kill, ultra-awesome, race-only pads on the street.

Best,
-j

[Mechie3]

I ran DTC-60's on the street before. The low end operating temp was the same as the Hawk HP+, but they stopped much better. They were stupid loud, and stupid dusty. People half a city block away would turn and look to see what sort of wreckage was going to occur when they heard the squeal.

[Scargo]

I ran DTC-60's on the street before. The low end operating temp was the same as the Hawk HP+, but they stopped much better. They were stupid loud, and stupid dusty. People half a city block away would turn and look to see what sort of wreckage was going to occur when they heard the squeal.
Weren't they hard on the rotors? I thought I read that somewhere, since you are supposed to be working against the material you transfer to the rotor when bedded in properly.

[D Clary]

I have Baer brakes on my Mustang, the fronts are 13 inch rotors and the rear are 10 inch. I change the high performance pads for stock because of their poor street performance. I have tracked the car several times and have had no terrible wear or fade. The car weighs about 2800lbs. I think with the 818s weight you should not have to run a rotor killing pad to stop. Another side effect with race only pads is the metal particles get embedded in your wheels, kinda uglies them up.

[Santiago]

I ran DTC-60's on the street before. The low end operating temp was the same as the Hawk HP+, but they stopped much better. They were stupid loud, and stupid dusty. People half a city block away would turn and look to see what sort of wreckage was going to occur when they heard the squeal.

See, I've heard conflicting stories on Hawk's line of race pads. I tend to believe the folks with your experience (some local folks have done/reported the same as you). But there's always "that guy" on the web decrying them as horrible safety hazards on the street. They're all like, "You can't do that, you'll die!" Meh.

What they really are is damn embarrassing. In the paddock everybody knows what's up, but on the street you get looked at like you're stuff is all jacked up.

-j

[metalmaker12]

Stop Tech pads worked great for my autocross. 80-20, smoked the tires and was even and very nice. My brakes stopped on a dime and did not fade at all, they outlasted my motor lol. Stock brakes are all you need on this car. Anything more and you might have too much braking clamp.

[waruaki]

Wrong post, my bad.

[Brando]

I'm trying to mount the front panel. Page 360 (rev G) of the directions make it seem like they have the bottom front edge all the way up against the very front rail. I notched out for the radiator rail at least 2" deep. It still wont make contact on the front. How are you getting that front panel to lay against the bottom of the front rail? I am having trouble finding a post that addresses this

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/frontEndMounting_zpsa929d36a.jpg


Side note:
My office today. 818 motivation and baby pictures (and an actual baby on Fridays). What more do you need in a workspace!

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/20140509_150958_zpsd80ff2ef.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/black-with-flat-lens-center-post-series.html

This is the same mirror that we use on the challenge car, there is a convex and a non-convex version, I would suggest the convex for racing. Also I used flush rivnuts to install in my challenge car and they hold up great and expect to do same with the 818.

28946

[FFRSpec72]

What pads are you running? Bedding pads isn't such a big deal for street pads, 50 miles of normal street driving will do it fine (don't get on them hard until then). Race pads are another story. You need to bed these or they will not perform up to their potential.

I use Carbotech XP10 and XP12 on my challenge car and while I don't do a lot of street driving they seem just fine when I do, they also bite very well on first lap out for the day on teh track, I really don't notice any warm up. Also the Carbotech can be had pre-bedded and thus I don't have anything to worry about.

[RM1SepEx]

I can't get mine to meet the lower radiator frame either. According to Erik's directions you should loosen the bolts holding that together and pull/adjust to get the frame where you need it. I'm guessing that we may need to make some sort of bracket...

[Brando]

I don't understand that one. All the bolts holding that together have no slop for adjusting. I just picked up some angled aluminum...taking the bracket route

[Mechie3]

Mike everson has pics of the bracket he made.

[metalmaker12]

I used an 2x1.5 aluminum angle that attaches to the lower of the radiator bracket and than to the front cover. You will have to shape it to fit inside the cover to match its radius. I did the same as Mike Everson and it works out to be about an inch out and lower than the bracket allows. The lip of the cover is thin

[Doowop]

Hey Tony,

will it be tall enough to clear whatever id behind it?

This is the same mirror that we use on the challenge car, there is a convex and a non-convex version, I would suggest the convex for racing. Also I used flush rivnuts to install in my challenge car and they hold up great and expect to do same with the 818.

28946

[FFRSpec72]

Hey Tony,

will it be tall enough to clear whatever id behind it?

Yes as the measurements are about the same as the challenge car (roll cage dimensions, height, etc.), and this mirror works just fine if you get the convex

[Jaime]

I'm trying to mount the front panel. Page 360 (rev G) of the directions make it seem like they have the bottom front edge all the way up against the very front rail. I notched out for the radiator rail at least 2" deep. It still wont make contact on the front. How are you getting that front panel to lay against the bottom of the front rail? I am having trouble finding a post that addresses this

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/frontEndMounting_zpsa929d36a.jpg


I was at the Factory Five showroom yesterday and checked this out on the red car. They used tubular spacers.

[Brando]

I went with the angled Aluminum and shaped it to contour to the inside lower front rail of the front panel. The bottom of the front panel its flush with the bottom radiator rail.
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140512_091709_zpsaaee434d.jpg

I ended up running 2 strips of thin black rubber weatherstripping, both ran the entire length of where to the door meets the side panel, each of the 1” from the inside/outside rail of the door. It gave the door good lateral support and a perfect reveal. I used 3 rivnuts and one L bracket to mount the door
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140512_091516_zps713b89be.jpg

I was playing with different depths and in the end took a little more material then needed. The door feels very solid
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140512_091508_zpsbaeef4e7.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140512_091825_zpse1fc88de.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140512_091457_zps5a05a5eb.jpg
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140512_091439_zps542245fb.jpg

On the hood I used sheet metal screws that fit into the rivet hole. I fitted all the panels and for the most part was pleased with the initial fit. This picture is with minimal initial sanding. I still need to remove panels and fine tune. The front right hood is ¼” further from the nose then I would like. The very tip of the hood hooks down more than I would like. I will have to make a landing bracket to give it some resistance at the tip. I think I stored it on the nose side for too long.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140512_091614_zps8b703779.jpg

[C.Plavan]

Looking good Brando. My only suggestion is to use big fender washers on the bolts/screws. The fiberglass can become brittle and break.

Did you trim the windshield surround?

[Brando]

I did trim it yes. I realize after trimming it that is needs to be shifted forward which ended up a butchered cutting job. I have so much cut out the front wheels could possibly kick things into the dashboard on the outside edges. As an alternative to a new surround I'm considering a piece of aluminum sheet covering the upper void between the firewall and roll bar. I have an email into FFR to check a replacement cost for the surround.

[C.Plavan]

I did trim it yes. I realize after trimming it that is needs to be shifted forward which ended up a butchered cutting job. I have so much cut out the front wheels could possibly kick things into the dashboard on the outside edges. As an alternative to a new surround I'm considering a piece of aluminum sheet covering the upper void between the firewall and roll bar. I have an email into FFR to check a replacement cost for the surround.

That is what I am scared of the most. I knew that was not going to be easy. Aluminum might be easier- then rivet shorty windshield on.

[longislandwrx]

take some pictures of the hack job so I know what not to do.... Six Star had to take a serious amount off theirs as well.

I wish a template was included to get you close.

[Brando]

I thought Six Star's looked pretty good. I didn't hack up the top of the surround because i wanted to keep it tilting forward to kick the windscreen as vertical as possible.
I will take a picture of the hack job, but be nice....it's pretty bad!

[Doowop]

Hey Brandon, what are you thinking for the inside of the doors?Are you gonna close them up somehow?

[Brando]

No I will be keeping them as is

[Brando]

I just confirmed my appointment with Highway Patrol at 2:00 P.M. Friday!
That's pushing the envelope. I was impressed this guy knew all about the 818, he was a fan of it. That might be my saving grace because i'm trying to get a VIN with the mini windshield on.

[metros]

The more pictures you can post documenting the adjustments you made the more it'll help the rest of us out.

That can't hurt to have an inspector that is following the 818 development.

[Brando]

I will post the surround pictures tonight. I didn't get to it last night.

I have been looking at the R review mirror pictures (center mirror). They have it mounted directly on the dash. I noticed on some of the earlier builds they had a fiberglass dashboard and I think the blue R does as well. My dash is a flimsy plastic. I think it will be too far forward and difficult to mount on the roll bar. Any suggestions?

[ehansen007]

I will post the surround pictures tonight. I didn't get to it last night.

I have been looking at the R review mirror pictures (center mirror). They have it mounted directly on the dash. I noticed on some of the earlier builds they had a fiberglass dashboard and I think the blue R does as well. My dash is a flimsy plastic. I think it will be too far forward and difficult to mount on the roll bar. Any suggestions?

29048

If it's light enough, just put some starboard (eurethane plastic) on the underside of the dash to spread the load and mount this. :)

[Brando]

Edit: Nevermind I found that mirror (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10145)

What's up Eric. Do you have a model or link I am having trouble finding it.
I was considering This mirror (http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/black-with-flat-lens-center-post-series.html)

[longislandwrx]

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/black-with-convex-lens-center-post-series.html

convex version.

[Brando]

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/black-with-convex-lens-center-post-series.html

convex version.

Edit: I was mistaken. The link you supplied was for convex and mine was for the flat. I'm glad you pointed this out, I just made a change order for it just before it was shipped.
Thanks for the catch!


Yes, you supplied that link last week. I included it on my post above. "This Mirror" is a live link to the same convex mirror which I ended up ordering due to price, having 3 mounting points and being convex. I get it tomorrow. Thanks for the link bro

[Scargo]

Seems to me it would be good for this mirror discussion to be moved to the "R" forum. That's why we wanted the dedicated forum and I hate to see it somewhat obscured in a build thread. I'm very interested in the topic.

[FFRSpec72]

If it's light enough, just put some starboard (eurethane plastic) on the underside of the dash to spread the load and mount this. :)

I have the non-carbon fiber one (plastic) and its light as mine is just rivnuts to fiberglass, the shaft is aluminum and the mirror either plastic or carbon fiber

[Brando]

I am not worried about the weight as much as the wind resistance at speed.
So it doesn't flex towards you on those 1 mile straights? ;)

Created thread in R discussion

[Doowop]

If you are going that fast you don't need to look behind anymore!! :)

[Brando]

I took my 818 to work yesterday. The Santa Ana winds had the outside temp over 100 degrees by the coastline. A perfect day to drive the 818 and yesterday the last 6 months of hard work climaxed on this short 5 mile drive. It was bitter sweet however as on my way home the compressor wheel shifted and started scraping the side of the turbo housing. I limped it home and sadly will have to trailer the 818 to my CHP appointment today.
I purchased my turbo from a private party but plan to have it rebuilt by a pro, probably turbocity.com

This car draws so much attention its borderline embarrassing. Its only a matter of time before this car causes an accident from a rubber necker. My only gripe (besides turbo) is the cars tracking. I am constantly finding myself correcting the driving line. I have not yet installed a bump steer kit and I am driving at the R height so I am hoping this rectifies the bobby nature of an attempted straight line. My clutch also makes a tapping noise as its engaging. A friend told me that would go away if I installed that spring that held clutch fork forward. I removed it ignorantly. Any thoughts on that?

Besides those 2 minor & fixable ticks I absolutely LOVE driving this car! I still haven't pushed it even close to its limit and will wait until i'm on a track to do so. I can't wait to see how far this car will let me take it. I am planning on ordering a spoiler from Eric (ehanson) and plan to get this car on a track June 14th. I will be running with a club I have never run with before, extreme speedtrack events (http://www.extremespeedtrackevents.com/) at a track I know VERY well Streets of Willow (http://www.willowspringsraceway.com/page.php?id=31). The only hitch is they will be running the track counter clockwise and I have always run it clockwise. So in the end I will be a virgin to the track after all.

So on the topic of windshields and cowlings:
Don't mount anything permanently because it wasn't until everything was mounted, fenders and hood included, that I was able to correctly readjust the cowling for a nice fit.

Here are the pictures after my first attempt before refining the cowling. I know the inside of the car is dirty! I get tired of cleaning fiberglass dust after a while. I now sleep in it, no joke.



Here is the right side. It was a good 2-3" from the end of the hood

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140514_233139_zpse8d3d3c1.jpg




Here is the left side. The windshield was flush with hood but protruded up 1" and looked very unfinished.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140514_233206_zps2de8485c.jpg



This is my butchered cowling. This picture doesn’t capture the cuts very well. I will shoot a close-up shot over the weekend of each side.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140514_233459_zpsddb82143.jpg



After adjusting the end of the windscreen is almost identical on both sides and the ends are not exposed with the hood on

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140514_234721_zpsc47fc011.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140514_234705_zpsfdeca020.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140514_235617_zps767a6034.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140514_235718_zpsd5bcab58.jpg

[Brando]

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140516_092100_zpse0635c39.jpg
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140516_092044_zpsab02d0d3.jpghttp://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140516_092002_zps97fe5dcc.jpghttp://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140516_091948_zpsbcd79a65.jpg

I still have not riveted the passenger panels. I'm waiting to get the belts and seat before doing so.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140516_092148_zps09ae2017.jpg


http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140516_092120_zpsd49139db.jpg

Of all the panels the hood and fenders still needs more work. The left fender needs to be pushed over a tid, so does the hood. I will figure it out but I rushed this part to get it ready for today's appointment. I have only used 1/8" sheet metal screws so I can adjust easily and rivet down when I am happy.
I also need to trim the hood on the right side so it sits down over the windshield. The windshield kicks up the corner a bit. Easy fix.
For now this works and when looking at the car in its entirety it doesn't show as much as this picture makes it seem.

[longislandwrx]

fingers crossed for you.. GL!

[wleehendrick]

Bummer on the turbo, Brandon. Did you follow Wayne's tip on the rear suspension alignment? That could be contributing to the tracking issues.

[Brando]

I had it professional aligned to specs. What was Waynes tip?

[Rasmus]

What size wheels you running Brando? Also, what are the offsets?

[Brando]

Wheels:
Enkei Kojin
17x8 + 45 Front
18x8.5 + 45 Rear

Tires:
Hoosiers R6
225/40-17 Front
255/35-18 Rear

Currently running 12mm spacers front and back. Plan on removing the front and using 5mm on the back

[wleehendrick]

I had it professional aligned to specs. What was Waynes tip?

Tom Wallace had the issue; I'm not sure where it was discussed.... All the adjust-ability in the rear suspension creates an under-constrained system; just setting camber, toe and thrust angle doesn't insure the geometry is right. IIRC, you need to adjust the long upper link so that the two lateral links are parallel to the ground; otherwise there will be excessive toe changes with compression; even if all the specs are correct. I'll see if I can find the thread.

Here's the thread on rear alignment. (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14084-Do-not-make-the-same-goof-up-I-did&p=149160&viewfull=1#post149160)

[FFRSpec72]

I see you have the mirror mounted, how did that go ?

[Doowop]

Brandon, it's just looks so cool to see the car all together on the street like that!! so exciting. congrats on all the work!! good luck with the cops. Hope they passe you with racing seat belt (non DOT). I am worried about that. Do you have working turn signals? I called Colorado State patrols here to ask if they had a check list of required things, and their stupid answer was: "has to be with everything that comes on factory built cars", which is totally dumb, as we don't have ABS, air bags, etc...... I hope the inspector is better than that. very excited to see that car on the street. sucks about the turbo, but i'll get fixed easily.

[Brando]

Thanks bro. It does feel good seeing on the street.
Yes on the turn signals, backup lights and license plate lights. The CHP guys were super cool. The officer builds LS1's in his spare time so he was very familiar with GTM and factory five. We had common interests and the conversations were 50% as a friend the other 50% all business. Worked out perfectly and I now have a VIN number riveted to my chassis.

The CHP check in CA seems mostly concerned with checking the VIN on the engine/trans donor to verify it's not from a stolen car. To complete my registration process I still have my last step which is an appointment with the CA Refs. They will be the ones I have to contend with on DOT related requirements. I don't see why the belts would be an issue...that's something I wasn't even considering. Time will tell.

The mirrors:
The side mirrors went on without a hitch and they don't vibrate. The center mirror however is difficult to use over 45mph due to vibration. The dash ended up being plenty strong for mounting it, the shaking is the issue.
As it stands now, the mirror is good enough to pass inspections and I can tell if someone is behind me, but I don't foresee my girl using it to apply her make-up that's for sure.

[wleehendrick]

Brandon,

Congrats on the VIN. Must be a thrill to drive it on the street... how's the wind with the short windscreen... you wearing a helmet or goggles?

good luck on the final hurdle.

[Brando]

A helmet. That's a funny thought. No I couldn't even find my sunglasses so I just squinted, kept my mouth closed and distanced myself from cars in front.
The short windshield does an impressive job cutting the wind. I drove the car without it and there was significantly more wind in my face.

[07FIREBLADE]

Congrats in the CHP inspection. Why would the belts be considered an issue by the refs? Keep us posted on how everything goes.

[Rasmus]

Wheels:
Enkei Kojin
17x8 + 45 Front
18x8.5 + 45 Rear

Tires:
Hoosiers R6
225/40-17 Front
255/35-18 Rear

Currently running 12mm spacers front and back. Plan on removing the front and using 5mm on the back
Thanks. On my car, I want the wheels and tires to tuck under a bit more than you've got yours set. Would you happen to have a picture of what it looks like with the spacers removed?

[Brando]

I also want them tucked under a bit more. The rear tires hit the upper trailing arm with no spacers and come very close to Waynes lower trailing arm. I think at least a 5mm will be needed for the rears to work. With the 12mm they rub the fender slightly when cornering hard or going diagonally up a steep driveway.
The fronts are too far out too for my visual preference. There isn't the same need for the spacers there to they are coming out. I will pull them off this weekend and shoot a few pictures, I don't have any without them yet.

[Brando]

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/20140403951804591_zps88e7f967.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/supercutebabypicture_zps0dc6d65e.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/baby-hearts_zpsbdf7769d.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/posing_zps3dcd593f.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/snail_zps833ee9f2.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/baby-cute_zps4d9e5615.jpg

Don't Mess with ME!

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/IMG_0630_zpse7af461f.jpg

[Brando]

Sorry I had to do a baby post. Keeps my lady happy

[metalmaker12]

Lol, she's beautiful!!!!man
We just did the same picture thing tues when he was a week old.
I will post the boy to help ya.

[Doowop]

awesome pics of the baby Brandon! :)

[Doowop]

Congrats in the CHP inspection. Why would the belts be considered an issue by the refs? Keep us posted on how everything goes.

the belts could be an issue because race seat belt are not DOT approved,and so technically not allowed in the street.

[Wayne Presley]

I also want them tucked under a bit more. The rear tires hit the upper trailing arm with no spacers and come very close to Waynes lower trailing arm. I think at least a 5mm will be needed for the rears to work. With the 12mm they rub the fender slightly when cornering hard or going diagonally up a steep driveway.
The fronts are too far out too for my visual preference. There isn't the same need for the spacers there to they are coming out. I will pull them off this weekend and shoot a few pictures, I don't have any without them yet.

Brandon, did you move the upper trailing arm fully inside, stack the spacers all on one side?


http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/20140403951804591_zps88e7f967.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/supercutebabypicture_zps0dc6d65e.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/baby-hearts_zpsbdf7769d.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/posing_zps3dcd593f.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/snail_zps833ee9f2.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/BabyBirth/baby-cute_zps4d9e5615.jpg




She's so cute!

[Brando]

Heya wayne. No I didn't but was considering. How much space is acceptable from tire to lower trailing arm?

[Wayne Presley]

Heya wayne. No I didn't but was considering. How much space is acceptable from tire to lower trailing arm?

I'd like to see .25" or more

[Bill Waters]

Is it bad to use two recovery tanks, one in the front on the radiator and one in the back on the fill tank?


I ran my fitting/hose to the top. There's a nice square boss on the casting on my 06 pipe that gives extra meat for threads to grip and seal against. I used a 90deg fitting because the turbo inlet runs over this pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/GNQa0F6.jpg?1

Mechie3, Wayne, Brando: this is my first Subie build and, as such, I am unfamiliar with the fully assembled cooling system. This is the outlet on the crossover pipe, right? Mine, too, has the convenient square boss on the top.

Thanks,

Bill

[Brando]

Bill, I feel ya. This is my first Subie experience and the cooling system took me a bit to get my arms around. I was scared of water lock from running a water to a vacuum.
Yes to your question.

I pulled my turbo off today. My guess was right..here is the damage.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140517_175428_zpsa7129f5e.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140517_175409_zps5682595f.jpg

[Wayne Presley]

Mechie3, Wayne, Brando: this is my first Subie build and, as such, I am unfamiliar with the fully assembled cooling system. This is the outlet on the crossover pipe, right? Mine, too, has the convenient square boss on the top.

Thanks,

Bill

Yes that is the water crossover/outlet.

[Wayne Presley]

Bill, I feel ya. This is my first Subie experience and the cooling system took me a bit to get my arms around. I was scared of water lock from running a water to a vacuum.
Yes to your question.

I pulled my turbo off today. My guess was right..here is the damage.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140517_175428_zpsa7129f5e.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140517_175409_zps5682595f.jpg

The center bearing is gone on that turbo Brando

[Brando]

It's a journal bearing and supposedly all the internals are new. Or this guy just totally worked me over.

Since it's a sleeve bearing this is totally fixable right?

[metalmaker12]

The internals could have not been new if you barely drove the car and have this problem. What turbo is this

[Bill Waters]

Thanks, Brando, Wayne.

Brando: first, beautiful child. I envy you. Second, which turbo is that?

Bill

[Brando]

Thank you Bill.

The turbo is supposedly a TD05 with MHI internals. This is what the guy said. When i get this thing rebuilt on Monday I will get the real scoop

[Rasmus]

It's a journal bearing and supposedly all the internals are new. Or this guy just totally worked me over.

Since it's a sleeve bearing this is totally fixable right?

You'll need a new compressor wheel and a new compressor housing too. Can't really fix those. The compressor and turbine wheels are precision balanced, allowing them to spin up to 150,000 RPM.

From your photo's it looks like the compressor housing wasn't seated correctly. Looks cocked.

[Brando]

So would you guys fix this one or buy another one? What would your guesstimate be on this fix? $300?

[Wayne Presley]

I'd really check to see if the oil feed line is clear and see if there is anything in the filter in the banjo bolt.

[metalmaker12]

I'd really check to see if the oil feed line is clear and see if there is anything in the filter in the banjo bolt.

Yeah a common issue with the subie oil feed lines. At first I thought this was my issue before my compression test.

[Brando]

I checked the banjo bolt & oil feed and oil seemed to be flowing fine. Before installing this turbo already had slop which i pointed out the guy after I purchased it. His solution was some taps with a mallet to center the compressor. That should have been a red flag but I went with it. Live and learn.

I forgot I had a new but lower quality TD05 turbo sitting around. This morning I woke up and pulled my bad turbo and replaced it with this new knockoff. The entire job took about 2 hours including the time it took to swap the pumbing. Although the compressor isn't as impressive the unit performed close to one I replaced. There was a slight power loss but the car still feels extremely quick.

Once working I shot over to Erik's and swapped some 818 insight. This was the first time taking the 818 on the freeway and it felt solid.
A great way to spend a Sunday.

I am starting to think the tracking issues are related more to bump steer. On top of that the low profile tires, wide tires and stiff suspension also make for a car that pulls on uneven surfaces. The limits of this car are far to great to come close to finding on the street. I am very anxious to let it rip in a safe closed course environment.



http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140518_092816_zps4e0b4666.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140518_100642_zps29b1b4bc.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140518_100709_zps45f40cf4.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140518_163714_zpsd6fbfdae.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140518_163952_zps48d5ba74.jpg

[Mechie3]

Cool to have another 818 build so close.

[wleehendrick]

Before installing this turbo already had slop which i pointed out the guy after I purchased it. His solution was some taps with a mallet to center the compressor. That should have been a red flag but I went with it. Live and learn.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29290&d=1400518185

29290

[ehansen007]

Yup. It's awesome having Brando around. He went balls out on his body build (he's a body builder you know) and blew right past me when I was out on surgery recovery. Now I get to look at his and learn! Huge help. Rocky even took her first swim in our pool a couple of weeks ago. What a great baby. So cute.

I drove the R yesterday as well and man it's awesome when that turbo kicks in! THe front end got a little light and dodgy over the bumps under hard accel though. It's enough to start thinking bad thoughts that's for sure. I'm wondering if something a little softer in the front suspension might be helpful. Not sure if the shocks are on soft or not. He's checking into it.

e

[longislandwrx]

Brando did you verify your springs were correct? As per the other thread the 300s go up front and the 500s in the back, I had mine backwards (as did most) ... maybe that's part of the issue?

Looked at your early pictures but couldn't read them... but it looks like the thicker ones are up front. good thing its only a 20 minute job to swap the coilovers front to back.

[Brando]

Brando did you verify your springs were correct? As per the other thread the 300s go up front and the 500s in the back, I had mine backwards (as did most) ... maybe that's part of the issue?

Good eyes. You were correct. How did I miss that one? How did you miss that one? ;)

So good, the nose will have more travel and the light feeling should improve. Nice call

[ehansen007]

Good grief Charlie Brown!

[Brando]

It was like the 2nd thing I did when I got the kit and never looked back.
Hey at least I didn't sweep it under the rug!

[longislandwrx]

How did you miss that one? ;)

I should have know better than to follow the instructions/parts list :D

[iWire]

The CHP check in CA seems mostly concerned with checking the VIN on the engine/trans donor to verify it's not from a stolen car. To complete my registration process I still have my last step which is an appointment with the CA Refs. They will be the ones I have to contend with on DOT related requirements. I don't see why the belts would be an issue...that's something I wasn't even considering. Time will tell.


Just a heads up to everyone on this subject. Subaru does not put a VIN on the engine/trans so there is no way to tell whether it was stolen or not. The numbers stamped are just part numbers to track what type of vehicle it came from, not the physical car it came out of.

[Brando]

I had the company who sold me the motor put the Vin on the invoice and the officers used that invoice to determine the donor VIN

[Brando]

I followed Chad's Bump steer guide (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14526-818R-Baer-Bumpsteer-Install-Guide)(thank you!) to install my Baer bumpsteer kit. I also noticed tire wear that would indicate too much toe in. I took a few degrees out and the car tracks very well now. There still is a slight tendency to track left under heavy acceleration at high speeds but its minor. Visually looking at the rear i feel there is too much toe in so I plan on playing with the setup some more.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_101948_zps44479ff4.jpg



I finished off all the aluminum paneling with the exception of the rear splash guards. Times like these a lift would be a huge help, it's so awkward trying to drill and rivet from under the car. Glad it's behind me.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_070200_zps4f162e1c.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_101926_zpsd5e64de9.jpg


I notched out the front splitter to slide it forward 3" and that made for a great position to support the front splash guard. I also mounted the side valence.
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_125934_zps5a45ec13.jpg


I drove the car for about 3 hours yesterday in 1 hour blocks, coming home in between and fixing ticks. Most all the rattles are gone. All the tire rubbing is also gone except the outside of the fronts on heavy cornering. It's rubbing so much its sending smoke out of the fenders. I feel the front is a little soft anyhow, so I am going to tighten up the springs a bit and remove the 3mm spacers from the front. The backs seem fine with the 5mm and tire rub back there has gone away.

The car feels very stable to drive now.

[ehansen007]

Looks good man. I plan on painting the inside with the bedliner black when I do the splash guards so it's all black underneath. how about you? BTW, it's not all behind you: you still still have to help me do mine. Beer included. :)

[Brando]

Will work for Beer

Bedliner black it is, I don't care for how much the aluminum pops in the wheel well. It's distracting and tacky. Build session this weekend?

[ehansen007]

Sure, bring it over Sunday and we can do both. I should have enough as it's spreads pretty well.

[billjr212]

can you post a before and after picture of one of the wheel wells with the wheel on? i'm thinking this is something that might be easier to to early in the build before the aluminum panels have been riveted in place and I could knock it out at the same time as the laundry list of other things to paint.

[Brando]

Bill,
I forgot to snap a before image prior to mounting the wheel. Hopefully you can reference the prior images to get a pretty good idea of the paneling without the wheel



http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140604_201121_zps99d771a0.jpg


Rasmutaz I finally got to taking the front spacers off so here are some pictures as requested.
I have 5mm spacers in back to clear the trailing arms and no spacers up front.
I shot a couple in different lights hopefully they capture what your looking for.


Wheels:
Enkei Kojin
17x8 + 45 Front
18x8.5 + 45 Rear

Tires:
Hoosiers R6
225/40-17 Front
255/35-18 Rear


http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181808_zpsdb399e1f.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181808_zpsdb399e1f.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181753_zpsfc5ab7c2.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181753_zpsfc5ab7c2.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181648_zpsb32d3b0f.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181648_zpsb32d3b0f.jpg.html)


http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181233_zps468b94a4.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181233_zps468b94a4.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181212_zps26f00471.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140605_181212_zps26f00471.jpg.html)



In an effort to alleviate the front wheel rub I tightened the front springs to the point that only 7 threads remain visible and removed the front wheel spacers. I just went for a test drive and did everything I could to try and get the tires to rub. To my surprise the tire rubbing is gone and the nose diving is nearly non existent. The ride feels a bit firm but better than the alternative.

I am running and AutoX this weekend and going to race streets of willow next weekend so i'm curious to see if this all holds true when these tires get sticky and I start pushing the edge a bit.

[JeromeS13]

Any idea what your current ride height is? How did you mount your front splitter?

[Brando]

front and back are both at 3 1/2"

I didn't do anything special for the front splitter. I slid it forward 2" and had to grind a bit off to do so. Light sanding, black silicon and 2 rows of 3/8 rivets. Same with the side valence.

[Brando]

I don't have pics mounting the front splitter but pretty much did the same thing as this.
Not sure if this was the best method but I am happy with it.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_083116_zps51277e22.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_083116_zps51277e22.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_083316_zps0693a6fb.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_083316_zps0693a6fb.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_113228_zps3bf1478d.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140531_113228_zps3bf1478d.jpg.html)

I made sure to leave the front area with clecos so i could slide the splash guards in between the CF and FG

[Rasmus]

Rasmutaz I finally got to taking the front spacers off so here are some pictures as requested.
I have 5mm spacers in back to clear the trailing arms and no spacers up front.
I shot a couple in different lights hopefully they capture what your looking for.


Wheels:
Enkei Kojin
17x8 + 45 Front
18x8.5 + 45 Rear

Tires:
Hoosiers R6
225/40-17 Front
255/35-18 Rear

Thanks Brando. Fronts looks so much better! With your 12mm spacers they were too wide for the body, making it look like you put a borrowed set of wheels from someone elses car and put 'em on yours. Tucked in just right, now.

[Brando]

CSCC and SCCA hosted an autocross event practice today for tomorrows race. I raced all day today, 12 runs total. Since it was hosted at a Marine base there was quite a bit of room and they used it. I couldn't believe the size of this setup. 3rd and 4th gear for 80% of the lap.

My first run was a 70 second pass. Towards the end of the day I was consistently running under 60 seconds with my best lap time of 58.11. There were 2 guys who were the ones to beat, and I hear the same 2 guys are the fastest at most events. One guy in a race prepped vette the other in a GT3. Both running A6's.
Their best lap times were in the low 55's so for my first time out with my untuned 818 I was pretty happy to be a few seconds behind the fastest guys out there.

One thing I can say for sure is this car needs a spoiler to keep the tail in check. My tires compounded the issue. These tires gave no warning...you're on rails but the second you push a tiny bit too far you were backwards before you knew things were getting loose. Surprisingly I only lost it twice, but they were magnificent spins. The car spun so hard the front continued the slide all the way around for a lightning quick 360 which ended going straight with some momentum left. I actually prefer that because by the time everyone looks over your already straightened back out. I should be getting my spoiler in the next few weeks and then things will start getting interesting. Besides those 2 spins the car performed very well so long as I refrained from over driving it. It kept me on my toes.

I couldn't believe the difference in how fast other peoples A6's got sticky. My R6's were mildly warm after my runs, still hard and not ready to grip. These other guys with A6's were gripping after the first 1/4 of the track. I might have to invest in a set.

I could have surely picked up a couple seconds if I had more confidence and less oversteer. I also could have picked up a second with A6's. I'm confident I could have been contending for the fastest times with those 2 additions and a little more time behind the wheel.

At the end of the day I was given mad props by countless individuals for the times I did run and felt very accepted into this new group of gents. People give you automatic respect based on the fact you built the car and after turning some good lap times I found myself quickly adopted into several new groups. It was bromancing at its finest.

All in all, this first day at AutoX was epic however I think I need to print up some type of article describing what the car is because i grew tired of explaining it to people. I can think of worse problems to have.

[Wayne Presley]

CSCC and SCCA hosted an autocross event practice today for tomorrows race. I raced all day today, 12 runs total. Since it was hosted at a Marine base there was quite a bit of room and they used it. I couldn't believe the size of this setup. 3rd and 4th gear for 80% of the lap.

My first run was a 70 second pass. Towards the end of the day I was consistently running under 60 seconds with my best lap time of 58.11. There were 2 guys who were the ones to beat, and I hear the same 2 guys are the fastest at most events. One guy in a race prepped vette the other in a GT3. Both running A6's.
Their best lap times were in the low 55's so for my first time out with my untuned 818 I was pretty happy to be a few seconds behind the fastest guys out there.

One thing I can say for sure is this car needs a spoiler to keep the tail in check. My tires compounded the issue. These tires gave no warning...you're on rails but the second you push a tiny bit too far you were backwards before you knew things were getting loose. Surprisingly I only lost it twice, but they were magnificent spins. The car spun so hard the front continued the slide all the way around for a lightning quick 360 which ended going straight with some momentum left. I actually prefer that because by the time everyone looks over your already straightened back out. I should be getting my spoiler in the next few weeks and then things will start getting interesting. Besides those 2 spins the car performed very well so long as I refrained from over driving it. It kept me on my toes.

I couldn't believe the difference in how fast other peoples A6's got sticky. My R6's were mildly warm after my runs, still hard and not ready to grip. These other guys with A6's were gripping after the first 1/4 of the track. I might have to invest in a set.

I could have surely picked up a couple seconds if I had more confidence and less oversteer. I also could have picked up a second with A6's. I'm confident I could have been contending for the fastest times with those 2 additions and a little more time behind the wheel.

At the end of the day I was given mad props by countless individuals for the times I did run and felt very accepted into this new group of gents. People give you automatic respect based on the fact you built the car and after turning some good lap times I found myself quickly adopted into several new groups. It was bromancing at its finest.

All in all, this first day at AutoX was epic however I think I need to print up some type of article describing what the car is because i grew tired of explaining it to people. I can think of worse problems to have.

Brando, the A6's are worth more than 2 seconds over the R's. What was you alignment settings?

[Brando]

That's another problem. The alignment I had professionally done had way to much toe in. I don't have exact alignment specs because in the end I went of trial and error. I know my camber is 1.5 front and rear but was thinking of going 3 degrees up front and 2 in the rear. I couldn't tell you where my toe in is at the moment

[Brando]

I am open to suggestions Wayne

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Brando,
Every spin for me auto crossing is only a 180. Did your spins happen because to much gas exiting a turn?
I can't remember, are you running LSD?
What tire pressures?
Bob

[C.Plavan]

Sounds like a blast. I cant wait. When I start to test mine on the track, I'll shoot you a PM and maybe we can have a 818R day (Buttonwillow).

Like Wayne said, the A6 is 2 seconds faster. They warm up super fast. I have used them on my Porsche racer (close to 818R weight) for a 45min race to gain an advantage. I would only get about 6 (avg 30 min races) heatcycles out of them before they were toast. (Compared to 13-14 with R6's). I only used one set of A6's once because of their limited life span.

My starting tire pressures for road racing on the R6 (not autocrossing which is totally different), are around 26-28 depending on outside temp. This again is with a car similar to the weight of the 818R. Do not go by the Hoosier "Recommended pressures", go by what you feel after tires are warmed up. My light car liked the pressures around 32-34 hot.

With Hoosiers, you want at least 3 to 2.5 degrees negative camber. Some guys run more, but it really depends on the car. As far as toe, Wayne may have a better idea since he races the Lotus cars.

Keep in mind running R6's at -3 degrees, on the street or around town, you will could be wasting alot of "Hoosier" $ getting groceries :) . I see a second set of wheels/tires in your future. Haha

Brandon- Did you remove the front splitter before racing it? The snap oversteer is exaggerated buy having front downforce and not the rear wing on as we discussed in a PM.

[Brando]

I was hoping that by the time i grenade this trans FFR will support the 6 speed. With that in mind I decided one of the financial corners to cut was an LSD. So no LSD on this build. :(

I should have followed your advice Chad but ran short on time and didn't get the car back off the ground so I ran with the front splitter. But today the front splitter found balance.

It's my 39th birthday today, I wonder if FFR timed this delivery for today on purpose. This spoiler looks so beautiful in person. I'm dropping the car off in the morning for some fab work to get this thing mounted to the frame. I'm still at a loss as to how i'm going to do this and have it easily removable, aesthetically pleasing with adequate integrity. Hopefully these guys have some good ideas.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140609_133534_zpsd4d6af9b.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140609_133509_zps2440a2ab.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140609_133754_zpsdc2b7ce7.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140609_133544_zps89c3603b.jpg

I hope this duct tape holds up during racing

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140609_133525_zps297f6781.jpg

[D Clary]

I just got a set of new Hoosier a-7, for my Mustang, supposed to grip like an a-6 without the drop-off and wear. I haven't had a chance to use them yet. I can still run a couple more events on the Hankooks. I haven't made a decision on the 818. I think I am going to end up with more than one set of wheels and tires.

[Brando]

Did you purchase them with AutoX or Track racing in mind?

[D Clary]

They are for auto X, they get very greasy when they get hot. That's why I figure I am going to have more than one set. The r-6 is very good but at a higher temp and the wear is much better. I have been using the Hankook Ventus for both. they are a bit harder to warm up than the a-6 and wear more than the r-6 but are 30% cheaper. So far I have not corded a set but they do cycle out and loose their grip.

[Brando]

I can't find the thread/post that deals with the optimal AOA for the GT-300. IIRC it was understeering at 5AOA.
Here are the # of downforce for the GT-300

0AOA:
80mph - 151lb
100mph - 238lb
120mph - 345lb

5AOA
80mph - 184lb
100mph - 290lb
120mph - 420lb

10AOA
80mph - 202lb
100mph - 317lb
120mph - 459lb

I'm curious at what point the spoiler will start making a difference. On a car this light perhaps at 100lb the handling will start changing?
I'm down for trial and error with this setup but out of the blocks I want to be as close to optimal as possible. Has anyone determined the best AOA for this wing?

[Scargo]

Sounds like we will be needing the splitter and canards. Front is pretty light already.

[Brando]

I was looking at a set of APR canards. I just cutout their online template (http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=44) to determine which set will work best. I'm not sure if this is the best option. Do you have any recommendations?

[Scargo]

I may not be the best person to answer that at this point in my build. That is one aspect that is way out there for me. Likely the last item I will decide on and deal with. I have a few bookmarks for wings...

[C.Plavan]

In my 818R notes (per Wayne's posts) it says to start at 0 or 1 AOA. You really do not need to worry about canards yet IMHO. Just utilize the front splitter and rear wing together.

And you are right. 100 lbs of downforce on this light car will make a difference. Its easy to forget that without a wing the car produces "Lift" at speed. On my 911 without a rear wing, it produces almost 300 pounds of lift @ almost 150mph.... just by adding a small ducktail spoiler, it cuts the lift at the rear in half at that speed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads4/spoiler_graph1109675532.jpg


Granted the shapes of the cars are very different, but we are adding a "real" rear wing to the 818R.

So 200 pounds may not "seem" like alot, but in reality it really is. Especially, the lighter the car. That is over 10% of the total weight of the car on the rear only. That does not take into account what is happening up front with the front splitter.

Wayne et all tested the 818R with just the rear wing and front splitter. They got a good baseline. I plan on sticking with that. In the most recent blue 818R photos/videos where John is speeding around like a madman, he is doing it with the stuff we already have.

I'm sure Wayne will chime in also- He has way more experience than me with aerodynamics on cars.


Sorry- I just drank a Redbull and started babbling on.....

[Brando]

Drink more redbull. I am starving for insight on the subject.

I notice the blue car's splitter is like 2" or less off the ground. Perhaps it was braking in the picture. My splitter seems like it angles up as it heads to the nose. I will take a profile picture of it, but I am worried it's actually creating lift not downforce.

[FFRSpec72]

I couldn't believe the difference in how fast other peoples A6's got sticky. My R6's were mildly warm after my runs, still hard and not ready to grip. These other guys with A6's were gripping after the first 1/4 of the track.

The car is light and it will take more to get the tires hot, we had this problem with the challenge cars, we had to go to a smaller tire to get heat to them. If you have never driven a Challenge car this may explain the feelings you are having, the 818 is also on a short wheelbase (longer than the Challenge) but still somewhat short and you have to get use to if you are tail breaking

[Wayne Presley]

On the third day of testing we backed off the rear wing angle to near 0 AOA and had a slight high speed aero push and neutral at 70 mph on the 818R. On the 818S with just the street splitter, it was loose no matter what we did with the front and rear springs. The wind tunnel backed up the track testing that it was aero loose since the splitter was doing a great job planting the nose. I put a GoPro in the nose of the S looking out over the splitter and it was being deflected down over an inch before we put and center brace in.

[CptTripps]

That's a BIG wing for street use. Wider than the car, no?

I really REALLY like your rims. I'll definitely have to check those out.

[Brando]

It sits almost flush with the outer most point of the fender flair. Yes it's huge for street use but works great for hanging your wet towels to dry. Perhaps that question was directed for Wayne, my focus is TT and perhaps door to door if I get to that point. I purchased these rims after seeing Jerome's setup, they do look very good on the 818 just stay away from curbs when parking.

Thanks Wayne that was helpful. Running only the front splitter I was loose at any speed. Neutral at 70 sounds perfect and pushing at high speeds is calming as well now that I'm a daddy.

If i set the wing to the lowest AOA it still has a few degrees in it so 0AOA doesn't appear to be an option for me. I get the car back today and will shoot some images of the mounting

[wleehendrick]

Yes it's huge for street use but works great for hanging your wet towels to dry.

You surf, Brandon? My boss surfs before work almost everyday and hangs his wetsuit over the tailgate on his truck... it's be perfect for that (not that I'd recommend salt water drying on carbon fiber!)

[longislandwrx]

I'll just put Brando on the back of my 818... he's gotta be around 235lbs :D

[Brando]

That's an impressive guess
230lbs

[C.Plavan]

That's an impressive guess
230lbs

Jeff was still counting the extra "Baby Weight" :)

Can't wait to see the mounting. I just ordered $100 of misc weldable brackets. I know I will make something work. Strong, removable, and ingenious..... That's what I'm going for, however the last one probably won't happen.

[Brando]

I'm pressed for time to get diffuser and a few other things installed before the night is over. On that note I will let the pictures do the talking.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_170212_zpsc4826948.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_170212_zpsc4826948.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_170244_zps11411e4b.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_170244_zps11411e4b.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_164938_zps08c41068.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_164938_zps08c41068.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_164928_zpsbe640b36.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_164928_zpsbe640b36.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165124_zpsf89fde99.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165124_zpsf89fde99.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165141_zps6bb4f011.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165141_zps6bb4f011.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_171532_zps9ebb336e.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_171532_zps9ebb336e.jpg.html)

[Brando]

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_171520_zpsc1692bda.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_171520_zpsc1692bda.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_174734_zpsab34525a.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_174734_zpsab34525a.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_174755_zps94a1fe6f.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_174755_zps94a1fe6f.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165454_zps1d8fc76e.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165454_zps1d8fc76e.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165419_zpsdd08e272.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165419_zpsdd08e272.jpg.html)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165442_zpsac3a6b33.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_165442_zpsac3a6b33.jpg.html)

[Scargo]

Thanks for all the pics. Nice to see an R nearing completion.
Why the license plate bracket? Don't understand the O2 sensor after the muffler and why is there a muffler?
I think the hoop looks like a good design. Lots could be hung from it.

[Brando]

I have a straight pipe as well. This car will be street legal with plates for the occasional drive. The wide band o2 can go I just need a plug.

[Bill Waters]

Very nice job, Brando; execution, design, all terrific.

[C.Plavan]

Great design! That's almost worth towing down and having that done.

[longislandwrx]

That is seriously beefy. :eek:

[D Clary]

Are you going to bolt or pin the wing on? When do you go through the next phase of registration. I am interested how that turns out. I had figured with the windshield it would not be licensed.

[Brando]

Thank you. I am really pleased with how the design came out. These guys specialize in building off road chassis. Jerry at http://www.penhallfab.com/ was super nice and helpful.
I'm sticking with the pins, they will support the load and I like the quick release. I should be setting an appointment for the Refs which is the last step of the registration process. It is my understanding the windshield will suffice but it will need some sort of windshield wipers, even manual ones will work. I was considering the old Mercedes headlight wipers! Comical, it will work and it's a backhand to the refs.

I purchased a digital level to adjust my AOA. Now that I have a digital level I double checked the camber. Turns out 3 tires were exactly 0 degrees and my back right was +1!! Both my spins were on a left turn...makes sense.
I'm rather perturbed the alignment shop did nothing I asked them to. The camber opened up a can of worms. The rear was simple and took all of 10 minutes, both are at -2 degrees now. The fronts however were not going to change without grinding some of the theads on the UCA down. Both sides of the UCA were bottomed out and touching one another inside the adjustment bolt (whatever its called). I still have to button the UCA's up but I have them at -3 degrees now, what a PITA I wish I had done that from the get go.

I found a screw embedded in my tire, I took it out and have a flat now. So i have to get my Uhaul, patch a tire, complete the UCA's, tighten springs, get this think on the trailer, mount tires and re-install larger spacers in rear and be on the road tonight for a 3hr drive to Willow Springs. Looks like I might have to cut out of work a bit early. Reason for the spacers is 1/4" wasn't enough space from the trailing arms to the inside of the tire, there was a buildup of rubber on the arm and the inside of the tires were glazed from rubbing.

This will be a great 2nd round racing. AutoX round one, now a proper track round 2. This will compliment my R6 tire choice, my camber change should be HUGE, I have a rear spoiler and rear diffuser installed. I'm really anticipating the change in characteristics.

I got a gopro 3+ back edition and roll bar mount for my birthday so I will capture some footage of the track.

On a lighter note, last night was Rocki's first time eating solid food. This kid likes to eat! A new milestone acheived.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140612_175153_zpsd67fcfc8.jpg

[Frank818]

Hey Brando, any pic or brand of your digital level?

[Brando]

Pic of post 471 picture 3. I got it from ace for $49. Not sure the brand...its nothing special but does the job.

[Frank818]

Darn, that's what I thought, I can't see it cuz all pix uploaded that way are somehow blocked here at work. Well now that I know I'll check tonight.

[D Clary]

Do you think 3 degrees is a lot on the front ? That may work ok for auto x but the track could be better with 2 to 2.5. It is possible that to much camber could make the nose slide if you trail brake. I will also heat the inside of the tire more. I used to run 3 degrees in my Mustang and reduced to 2.5. Did not notice any turning change at auto x but the braking was improved. I thought the referee just looked at smog and the chp looked at the other stuff. I may have to travel down there to register mine.

[Brando]

CHP already passed me and give me the VIN. Thanks for the insight on the camber, i will try 2 up front. 2 degrees on the rear looks like alot visually. Wondering if i should go 1.5

[wleehendrick]

It is my understanding the windshield will suffice but it will need some sort of windshield wipers, even manual ones will work. I was considering the old Mercedes headlight wipers! Comical, it will work and it's a backhand to the refs.

Good luck... I've heard that some refs are being picky about windsheilds not made of DOT safety glass.



The fronts however were not going to change without grinding some of the theads on the UCA down. Both sides of the UCA were bottomed out and touching one another inside the adjustment bolt (whatever its called). I still have to button the UCA's up but I have them at -3 degrees now, what a PITA I wish I had done that from the get go.

My front UCA's were the old style, requiring one of the studs to be cut. When I assembled them I noticed the long stud on the un-cut side would hit before the turn buckles could fully tighten. I though this might limit the amount of negative camber that could be dialed in, so I trimmed the other long stud at that point. Glad I did!

[C.Plavan]

I noticed that also on the UCA's bottoming out. I blew it off at the time, I was not ready to mess with that yet. Was it the front or rear arms on the UCA (or both) you cut? Aprox how much did you cut?

I'm jealous. Have fun at the Streets!

[C.Plavan]

CHP already passed me and give me the VIN. Thanks for the insight on the camber, i will try 2 up front. 2 degrees on the rear looks like alot visually. Wondering if i should go 1.5

Stick with -3 degree's at the start. Hoosiers love camber. Do not for any reason go lower than -2.5 degree's (On track). I have been racing on them for 10+ years.

Warm up the tires before you really start pushing it. Same with the brakes.... but check your rearview mirror before warming them up :)

You will find you will probably like the tire temps coming in after a session at 32-34 psi HOT. I personally like them closer to 32 hot.

[longislandwrx]

Brando, Id put at least one bolt in that spoiler if you plan on ever parking it anywhere. The ricers will be on that thing like white on rice?

[Brando]

If I need to get a full windshield Eric said I could borrow his, but that clock is running out because he is almost ready to install it himself. Worst case is I will sport for a windshield but hopefully it won't come to that. Is FFR windshield DOT rated glass?

On the UCA's I trimmed all 4 corners. Probably 1/2+" on the shorties and at LEAST 1" on the long guy. I will measure the discard and let you know exacts. I have them almost as tight as they will go to get -3 degrees, i don't think I could get much more out of them. In fact I only used 1 locknut on one side because with both locknuts on it could only get -2 out of it. I needed that extra space. I will keep -3 and play with it. With the hood off it's pretty easy to get to them and adjust.

I drive a full sized truck and am planning on storing the wing in my truck until its race time. I haven't verified it will even fit so probably wise i bring alternative hardware for mounting. Good food for thought I would be crushed if someone swiped that wing and will probably end up using a nut/bolt moving forward now that you spooked me to the idea of someone snagging it. White on rice? lol Jeff you're funny

I do have 1 major concern. I had a hole plugged today. I didn't notice the nail until last night so didn't have time to replace the tire. It's my front left and i'm racing CCW so hopefully it won't get hot enough to cause me any problems. Sketchy but gotta go for it

I think instead of replacing the tire i'm just going with a full set of A6's

[wleehendrick]

If he installs his first and it comes to that, you can borrow mine, but it's not mounted in the frame yet. Yes, it's an aftermarket piece for a GenIII MR2, I believe, so DOT legal glass.

I trimmed the same length off the other long UCA stud as Wayne recommended in his tip (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours&p=111559&viewfull=1#post111559), 1.1".

[D Clary]

I wouldn't worry about the plug, the tire will probably melt right over it. How about all the R cars pitch in for a windshield and we just pass it around. My daughter is a great artist and could draw wipers with a sharpe.

[metros]

Looking forward to your track footage.

On another note, congrats on moving into 'real' food with your little one. You take very good care of your hands considering you spend so much time wrenching.

[Brando]

My daughter is a great artist and could draw wipers with a sharpe.

haha! Cost effective family building exercises. Count me in


You take very good care of your hands considering you spend so much time wrenching.

I really appreciate that. I soak my hands in Palmolive soap after working on my car. I really feel my color choice accents my skin tones.

I love waking up to a chuckle. Happy fathers day to all the daddies out there! I'm going to go ahead and include myself as this is my first fathers day and it's pretty neat. I'm home safe and besides a blown turbo have nothing but good things to report about my track day.

Willow Springs Raceway - Streets of Willow CCW

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/20140613_185815_zpsce5e66c9.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/P6140006_zpsae9b9191.jpg

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/P6140009_zps8c4fa163.jpg

There was a professional photography service which will have pictures ready to download in the next 48 hours. Until then here are a few direct links.

All run groups so you can see the spread of cars. Some pretty nice cars out there (http://www.caliphotography.com/photos/index.php?do=photocart&viewGallery=30856#page=thumbs)

Blue = Beginners
Green = Intermediate
Gold = Advanced
Red = Expert/race

My images are split between gold & red because I raced once with each. Here are 2 of them. I will be able to download the entire lot of them on Tuesday, minus the watermark.

Watermarked profile image of my 818 (http://www.caliphotography.com/photos/index.php?do=photocart&viewGallery=30881#image=4288729)

Watermarked cornering image of my 818 (http://www.caliphotography.com/photos/index.php?do=photocart&viewGallery=30884#image=4289212)

[Brando]

This my first track time trial with my 818R. I started in the Green group. Not as exciting as the other 2 races but you gotta start somewhere


http://youtu.be/-AQpl2FebME

[Brando]

When I ran my 2nd race in gold group the only lap I was able to get in clean and without interference was my first. Tires were still not up to temp but it was still 4.5 seconds faster than the 2nd place driver.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/P6140017_zps8c28581c.jpg



http://youtu.be/ti_v00vig6s

[Brando]

This was my 3rd and final race. I raced in the expert/race class with full passing rights anywhere on the track.

There were 3 of us in contention for 3rd by a few 1/10ths. The only lap I was able to get in without being stuck behind another car was my 4th. I didn't hit all my turns very well this lap. I am certain if I had another run I would be in 2nd on this and after a day or two racing this direction I would be giving the #1 a run for his money. Keep in mind I have NEVER run the track this direction and these guys have been running here for years. I have several seconds i could easily shaved and you can see it when you watch the video.

I LOVE THIS CAR!
Oversteering is gone this car handles so perfectly now. I never felt out of control and when it did break loose it was very easy to bring back to center. Lap 4 I got the car a bit loose a few times and you can see how predictable it was. Nothing like last weekend...totally different car from then.

Unfortunately that POS turbo I used as a replacement didn't last too long. Not sure what happened to it but instead of spooling it just made a loud clunk.
So I was only able to race 2.5 races and already giving the top guys some competition. I would be in 2nd for the day for sure if I could have had another run or two. Oh well, next time!

The guy who ran the 1:22 was in a fully race prepped WRX STI with 550WHP. Full blown race car head to toe. He wins all the events with this club so I'm told. The guy made it a point to come up to me in the pits and was showering the 818 with compliments. He was tripping how hard it was to pull away from. He was shocked when I told him I only had 280WHP. I'm truly am glad I don't have more... for this type of track it doesn't need it. Honestly I think I will be beating this guy before the year is over. Mark my words...I have it in my sights.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/P6140018_zps052698c6.jpg

Edit: Oops the video failed. Gimme a few minutes to re-upload

2nd edit: Video is still uploading to youtube -GTG will embed it this afternoon.

[Scargo]

Your excitement is palpable and I'm sure it was a real thrill. In the videos I hear a single cylinder kind of noise. Not like the turbo eating itself. Any thoughts?
What was it you changed to make the car more neutral and handle better? BTW, fast hands.

[C.Plavan]

Very cool. Congrats on the successful outing. Sucks about the turbo though. I'm sure it will be fixed ASAP.
How were the tire pressures? Did you leave the camber as is?

[D Clary]

Looks like a great time I cant wait. I wonder whats up with the turbo failures. has me a little concerned. I don't know to much about Subaru, I wonder if there is a weakness that we need to fix. Happy FD

[Brando]

Your excitement is palpable and I'm sure it was a real thrill. In the videos I hear a single cylinder kind of noise. Not like the turbo eating itself. Any thoughts?
What was it you changed to make the car more neutral and handle better? BTW, fast hands.

Your right i'm super pumped. You will be too when you drive this thing hard. The car handled much better at slower speeds, even with the tires cold so I think the camber change was pretty huge. I stuck with -3f and -2r. Pressure was 27lb cold and 32f/34r hot. Anything in 3rd or 4th was night and day difference. It had no tendency to oversteer and just felt super solid and stable.

Don't worry about the turbo failures it's me not the hardware. I went with this ebay special 16g "upgrade" for $250 when I was building this motor. Drews engine builder hit me up warning me the turbo i purchased was garbage and would grenade the first day out. He offered me one of his Blouch knockoffs and I went for it. His turbo performed but he didn't seat the housings together properly and the turbo failed due to the compressor rubbing the housing. It failed with less than 1 hour on it and normal driving. That was human error on the construction.

At the track the turbo failed because it was simply cheap. I don't know exactly what the point of failure was with the turbo and wont for a bit. I just want to make sure it wasn't due to oil/coolant flow issues. Next race is July 5th so I will have it back working by then and will have figured out what happened.

When you hear the car in person there is absolutely no audible noise that resembles what the gopro captures. I don't understand why the audio captures that knocking but in person it sounds nothing like it does in the video. Weird.

Here is the 3rd and final race. 4th lap was my only unobstructed but missed some lines. So much fun...I was just getting comfortable pushing the car. I wish I could have gotten in a couple more sessions!


http://youtu.be/Up7cjVWkOpI